Dude I literally just purchased a water pump for some over heating problems just in case, changed a few things like the thermostat and upper heater core hose as it blew from pressure. Thought this job was going to be a challenge until this video. Thanks
Awesome video and very informative! Thanks for all the great tips as well. I just replaced the water pump on my 2011 RT, identical to yours in color, after watching your video several times. Mine was leaking coolant from the back of the water pump pulley. My pump had been sounding like it had marbles in it for months before it developed the coolant leak. Thanks again!
You could try, but if you are going through the trouble of removing the water pump, it’s cheap insurance to bolt on a new one while you are there. Save yourself from having to do the work twice.
Tee Orr I️ used a torque wrench for final assembly to tighten the water pump bolts to the timing cover. I️ used regular wrenches for everything else. You can get a decent torque wrench from Harbor Freight for cheap. Or, you can probably rent one from Autozone for free.
You don’t have to drain all the fluid. In my case, I just replaced what was lost. Just make sure you use the right type of fluid and bleed the system. If there is a petcock on the radiator, that is likely the place to drain it from.
I bought it off of rockauto.com. They have a very accurate parts finder. Just pick you year, make, model and engine and it will take you to several options for the correct part. In all the parts I have ordered from them, that have always been accurate. Once you know the part number from rock auto, you can search it on Amazon or you local parts store to see if you can get it at a better price.
It was an aftermarket Duralast pump. Lasted through me selling the car. I don’t recall the price and it might be different by now, but it was reasonable.
Captain Keith's World first I filled the reservoir with coolant, with the bleed screw open. I then ran the engine up to temp, with the heat on and cracked the bleed screw until I had a steady stream of fluid come out. Once that happened I closed the screw and ran it for a while watching the temp. Once I was happy all the fluid was moving, I filled the reservoir back up. This may or may not be the right way to do it, but it worked in my case.
I don’t off hand. When I took the bolts out, I put them in their corresponding position in the new part. You can also punch some holes in cardboard and keep track of them that way.
The one right under the throttle body is a long bolt. It goes in a pattern all the way around. Long bolt, short bolt, long bolt, short bolt. There are 2 extra long bolts. One is next to the bleeder valve & has like a washer on it, the other is where you take the radiator hose off the pump.
No. Only symptom I had was a bearing squeal that I thought was coming from the water pump. After replacement, the squeal was still there. Never did trace it down before I sold the car.
Dude I literally just purchased a water pump for some over heating problems just in case, changed a few things like the thermostat and upper heater core hose as it blew from pressure. Thought this job was going to be a challenge until this video. Thanks
Awesome video and very informative! Thanks for all the great tips as well. I just replaced the water pump on my 2011 RT, identical to yours in color, after watching your video several times. Mine was leaking coolant from the back of the water pump pulley. My pump had been sounding like it had marbles in it for months before it developed the coolant leak. Thanks again!
That damn clamp on the lower hose is what's slowing my progress. Thank you for your point of view and your time making this video for all of us.
Connect lower water pump hose to water pump before mounting water pump.Saves time fighting bottom clamp.
Connect lower water pump hose to water pump before mounting water pump.Saves time fighting bottom clamp.
Thanks for the tutorial, I will be replacing mine this weekend. Its leaking and skeeting coolant on everything corroding it..
steven mccrorey hope the replacement went well!
I think you did a Farley well job at this
Wish you would of recorded the sound of the bad water pump
Way better with my 11 then my 07 thanks
How did you get the pump off after everything is off
Can I replace the seal only? Water pump is working fine but I’m noticing coolant is leaking
You could try, but if you are going through the trouble of removing the water pump, it’s cheap insurance to bolt on a new one while you are there. Save yourself from having to do the work twice.
I have 2013 so I imagine it’s not to different but did you ever figure out what the bearing noise is? Mine is doing the same
CGF Cars.Guns.Family. Never figured out the bearing noise. Ended up selling the car with the noise intact. 2013 should be very similar.
Did you use a torque wrench or just regular tools ? Thank you
Tee Orr I️ used a torque wrench for final assembly to tighten the water pump bolts to the timing cover. I️ used regular wrenches for everything else. You can get a decent torque wrench from Harbor Freight for cheap. Or, you can probably rent one from Autozone for free.
Why are we cutting away the action of actually emoting each part?
Sorry to bring up an old post.. Do i have to drain the old fluid? And if i do is it through the petcock on the lower part of the radiator?
You don’t have to drain all the fluid. In my case, I just replaced what was lost. Just make sure you use the right type of fluid and bleed the system. If there is a petcock on the radiator, that is likely the place to drain it from.
Nice Review, I have a 2013!! Need to replace mine. Do u have a part number from where u purchased yours
I bought it off of rockauto.com. They have a very accurate parts finder. Just pick you year, make, model and engine and it will take you to several options for the correct part. In all the parts I have ordered from them, that have always been accurate.
Once you know the part number from rock auto, you can search it on Amazon or you local parts store to see if you can get it at a better price.
@@jqworks thanks, yeah I was looking lastnight on that site. The dealership tryna knock me in the head.
How does the black line that comes from the valley come out? I did the 10mm but having issues after that
myaccountisjack there is a small (maybe 10mm bolt) holding the tube in place. Then it is a pressure fit into the water pump. Mine just pulled out.
Is that an aftermarket pump or oem if aftermarket how much and how long did it last?
It was an aftermarket Duralast pump. Lasted through me selling the car. I don’t recall the price and it might be different by now, but it was reasonable.
Did u bleed it with the vehicle running after the thermostat opened or how did u bleed it out?
Captain Keith's World first I filled the reservoir with coolant, with the bleed screw open. I then ran the engine up to temp, with the heat on and cracked the bleed screw until I had a steady stream of fluid come out. Once that happened I closed the screw and ran it for a while watching the temp. Once I was happy all the fluid was moving, I filled the reservoir back up. This may or may not be the right way to do it, but it worked in my case.
You dont happen to know where the location of each bolts go to ?
I don’t off hand. When I took the bolts out, I put them in their corresponding position in the new part. You can also punch some holes in cardboard and keep track of them that way.
The one right under the throttle body is a long bolt. It goes in a pattern all the way around. Long bolt, short bolt, long bolt, short bolt. There are 2 extra long bolts. One is next to the bleeder valve & has like a washer on it, the other is where you take the radiator hose off the pump.
What are torque specs on it.
I believe I torqued to 21 ft/lbs.
Was your car overheating?
No. Only symptom I had was a bearing squeal that I thought was coming from the water pump. After replacement, the squeal was still there. Never did trace it down before I sold the car.
@@jqworks the whiny noise went away on mine and it works now