I'm use to hot and tropical climates where rust is a common problem. I use Australian INOX MX3, a non-toxic mineral based CLP oil. It's common and affordable here. Good multi-purpose and does a great job cleaning and protecting from rust. If I need thicker I use MX6 and or a generic Lanolin waterproof grease. In SE Asia and Philippines I only had access to basic things. I used kerosene and WD40 as a cleaner, and 10W-40 motor oil lube. All worked and very affordable. Most 'gun oils' are basically mineral based motor oil in fancy packaging. If you have time you don't really need solvents. Just soak with mineral oil. The longer the better as it lifts up more fouling. Then wipe it clean and pull a bore snake through. You might like FrogLube liquid and paste, also non-toxic and eats rust. Good comparison review and summary report 👍
Great video. I came back to it after a few months. I had a quart of d limonene on hand as I use it on my shoes and around the house. It never occurred to me to try out on firearms. Now I've been using it for months. Works great! Thank you for all the work you put into making this video
Yeah i've used d-limonene on the 240b. All i can say its the best gun cleaner ever. Way,way bettee than m pro 7. Carbon was practically turning into liquid and flowing out the weapon. D-limonene even was reaching the nookies and crannies of the 240b, kinda cleaning itself out. It was however good practice to wipe it off and apply lubricant/protectant.
I'm a fan of Simple Green HD (supposed to be safe on aluminum) and water for general gun cleaning. For lead and copper fouling in the bore, I usually use Hoppe's No. 9. Anything that doesn't come off with a wipe of the towel gets the ultrasonic treatment, and that generally does a number on stubborn carbon and firing residue deposits. After that, I just hit everything with a blast from the air compressor, then re-apply gun oil and good to go.
I'm telling you, having done a standardized shooting schedule and cleaning this rifle over a dozen times with different cleaners, you're going to really like odorless mineral spirits coming from a water based cleaner like simple green.
Have you tried any of the Ed’s red mixtures? Also brake clean is among my favorites… Mineral spirts is also what most solvent tanks use, or it’s at least most of the base component of them.
I haven't, but I might get around to it. Brake cleaners that are chlorinated often use TCE and the non-chlorinated ones will use the stuff that odorless mineral spirits will have removed such as toluene, xylene, etc. They're also aerosolized and I want to at least find something liquid that can work in a small enough bottle for a field cleaning kit. Seeing as how d-limonene and RBC both have Kb values that are both very high and the RBC really does clean 95% of fouling, there doesn't seem to be a need to use brake cleaner or hazardous chemicals while both d-limonene/RBC are safe for people to use. Chlorinated solvents like TCE or the chlorinated brake cleaners will attack the rubber components associated with the extractor and you have to be careful about that, which makes them less than ideal for me.
@@fullspectrum1616 yes I stay away from the chlorinated. It is some nasty stuff. Ed’s red is a combo of ATF, mineral spirits, kerosene and acetone mixed in equal parts. It has worked quite well for me when I mix the batches up.
Ive always wondered how automotive fuel injector carbon cleaners would work on firearms vs. firearm soecific carbon cleaners. I'd do the test myself, but unfortunately, I don't shoot much.
Seems like it could be a good cleaner. STP lists their injector cleaner as 80%+ kerosene, and the next highest ingredient as napth, then various methylated benzenes. It would say it would clean a little better than RBC, limonene, and mineral spirits, but not as good as TCE. It seems to also proportionally be bad for your health as well. I think, principally, the best bet for a cleaner is to get all the the carbon and debris in the lube you apply to the gun and the best nonpolar based degreaser can take that lube off your gun while it is carrying the carbon fouling with it. I think that is why the non-water based solvents did better in my test. It then makes sense to pick the strongest of those that aren't carcinogenic, are available, and within your budget.
Hey does the D-limonene clean the carbon(residue) that is so caked into the interior of the a weapon that it looks like its part of it and you cant even tell unless you get a napkin and run across the interior?
For that stuff you will have to scrub with a brush, the stiff blue ones from otis are nice for that without damaging the finish. It won't require you to sit there and forcefully scrub like you normally would, you will only need to lightly scrub and it will come off for caked on dry carbon. For instance on the AR15 upper receiver, I use a 12 gauge nylon bore brush and mineral spirits and it will come out white napkin clean after one wipe of a cloth.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm use to hot and tropical climates where rust is a common problem. I use Australian INOX MX3, a non-toxic mineral based CLP oil. It's common and affordable here. Good multi-purpose and does a great job cleaning and protecting from rust. If I need thicker I use MX6 and or a generic Lanolin waterproof grease. In SE Asia and Philippines I only had access to basic things. I used kerosene and WD40 as a cleaner, and 10W-40 motor oil lube. All worked and very affordable. Most 'gun oils' are basically mineral based motor oil in fancy packaging. If you have time you don't really need solvents. Just soak with mineral oil. The longer the better as it lifts up more fouling. Then wipe it clean and pull a bore snake through. You might like FrogLube liquid and paste, also non-toxic and eats rust. Good comparison review and summary report 👍
Great video. I came back to it after a few months. I had a quart of d limonene on hand as I use it on my shoes and around the house. It never occurred to me to try out on firearms. Now I've been using it for months. Works great! Thank you for all the work you put into making this video
Thanks for the compliment!
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I use mineral spirits mixed with mineral oil and nylon brush.
Mineral spirits are the best... All my competition guns get scrubbed with it... after an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner with simple green
Yeah i've used d-limonene on the 240b. All i can say its the best gun cleaner ever. Way,way bettee than m pro 7. Carbon was practically turning into liquid and flowing out the weapon. D-limonene even was reaching the nookies and crannies of the 240b, kinda cleaning itself out. It was however good practice to wipe it off and apply lubricant/protectant.
Armorer can't say no to a gun smelling that fresh...
I'm a fan of Simple Green HD (supposed to be safe on aluminum) and water for general gun cleaning. For lead and copper fouling in the bore, I usually use Hoppe's No. 9. Anything that doesn't come off with a wipe of the towel gets the ultrasonic treatment, and that generally does a number on stubborn carbon and firing residue deposits. After that, I just hit everything with a blast from the air compressor, then re-apply gun oil and good to go.
I'm telling you, having done a standardized shooting schedule and cleaning this rifle over a dozen times with different cleaners, you're going to really like odorless mineral spirits coming from a water based cleaner like simple green.
@@fullspectrum1616 It might end up being cheaper, too.
Wilson combat carbon cleaner is by far the best solvent with no harsh chemicals / ammonia that I've ever used.
Have you tried any of the Ed’s red mixtures? Also brake clean is among my favorites… Mineral spirts is also what most solvent tanks use, or it’s at least most of the base component of them.
I haven't, but I might get around to it. Brake cleaners that are chlorinated often use TCE and the non-chlorinated ones will use the stuff that odorless mineral spirits will have removed such as toluene, xylene, etc. They're also aerosolized and I want to at least find something liquid that can work in a small enough bottle for a field cleaning kit. Seeing as how d-limonene and RBC both have Kb values that are both very high and the RBC really does clean 95% of fouling, there doesn't seem to be a need to use brake cleaner or hazardous chemicals while both d-limonene/RBC are safe for people to use. Chlorinated solvents like TCE or the chlorinated brake cleaners will attack the rubber components associated with the extractor and you have to be careful about that, which makes them less than ideal for me.
@@fullspectrum1616 yes I stay away from the chlorinated. It is some nasty stuff. Ed’s red is a combo of ATF, mineral spirits, kerosene and acetone mixed in equal parts. It has worked quite well for me when I mix the batches up.
Ive heard CLR is a fantastic firearms cleaner, and is fairly cheap per oz.
From what I've seen the water based stuff can be alright but the oil based/solvent cleaners seem to be better at cleaning and evaporate quicker too.
Ive always wondered how automotive fuel injector carbon cleaners would work on firearms vs. firearm soecific carbon cleaners. I'd do the test myself, but unfortunately, I don't shoot much.
Seems like it could be a good cleaner. STP lists their injector cleaner as 80%+ kerosene, and the next highest ingredient as napth, then various methylated benzenes. It would say it would clean a little better than RBC, limonene, and mineral spirits, but not as good as TCE. It seems to also proportionally be bad for your health as well.
I think, principally, the best bet for a cleaner is to get all the the carbon and debris in the lube you apply to the gun and the best nonpolar based degreaser can take that lube off your gun while it is carrying the carbon fouling with it. I think that is why the non-water based solvents did better in my test. It then makes sense to pick the strongest of those that aren't carcinogenic, are available, and within your budget.
I like using good ole flashing kerosene
Hey does the D-limonene clean the carbon(residue) that is so caked into the interior of the a weapon that it looks like its part of it and you cant even tell unless you get a napkin and run across the interior?
For that stuff you will have to scrub with a brush, the stiff blue ones from otis are nice for that without damaging the finish. It won't require you to sit there and forcefully scrub like you normally would, you will only need to lightly scrub and it will come off for caked on dry carbon.
For instance on the AR15 upper receiver, I use a 12 gauge nylon bore brush and mineral spirits and it will come out white napkin clean after one wipe of a cloth.