- 8
- 33 218
Full Spectrum
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2020
First Time Shooting MG42
This was my first time shooting my MG42 ever using a 150 round belt of Romanian 8mm. The German manuals state that 150 rounds/minute was the practical rate of fire from the bipod, which seems to match with what I was able to control here. The casings ended up giving some decent burns on my elbow, I'd recommend longer sleeve shirts for this.
มุมมอง: 624
วีดีโอ
MG42 Testing .308
มุมมอง 1.7K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Testing my MG42 with some .308 using a 10mm booster on the lafette tripod - it seems to run well.
Best Gun Cleaner? Gun Cleaning made Quick and Easy.
มุมมอง 1.1Kปีที่แล้ว
A good cleaning methodology with a good gun cleaner will make cleaning firearms quicker and easier. This video is a review of my results from testing 8 different gun cleaners. There is a significant difference in ease and time to clean a gun based on what you use, so picking a good gun cleaner will speed it up. I also cover extra factors like cost, availability, health safety, etc. Chapters: 0:...
Best Lube for Suppressed AR-15? 11 Lubes Tested!
มุมมอง 9Kปีที่แล้ว
This video is a test of lubricants on a suppressed SBR to determine the best lubricant to use for the extra demanding conditions and suppressor puts on a rifle. Overall thin lubricants similar to CLP's lower viscosity are significantly worse than thicker lubricants because of blowoff and/or burnoff. Mixed lubricants seem to do the best in terms of staying power for a suppressed rifle that sees ...
AR-15 Clean and Lube - Quick and Easy
มุมมอง 935ปีที่แล้ว
This video covers AR-15 cleaning and lubing maintenance using a dedicated solvent and separate dedicated lubricant as opposed to a CLP that tries to do both in a more mediocre manner. This makes actual cleaning and lubrication maintenance easier in comparison to using a CLP which only makes things logistically easier. These are all my own products I bought and paid for with my own money. This v...
The Forward Assist Part 2: Immediate Action and Kyle Rittenhouse
มุมมอง 3.5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This video addresses the deficiencies of immediate action drills as well as how and why our extant repertoire of training has failed regular gun owners like Kyle Rittenhouse. Chapters 0:00:00 1 - Intro and Basic Facts of Kyle's Rifle 0:05:18 2 - Immediate Action Introduction, Definition, and Raison D'être 0:06:48 3 - Immediate Action Drill Examples and Considerations 0:08:00 4 - Concerns about ...
The Forward Assist Part 1: Vindication
มุมมอง 16K4 ปีที่แล้ว
I made this video to defend and vindicate the often maligned forward assist found on the AR15. Either the Army or the Congressional report had a typo when referring to FM 23-5 as the relevant section is found in paragraph 12b. This video broadly covers the bad arguments, their counterpoints, as well as a general outline of the AR15's history as it pertains to an extant faulty understanding of t...
Chris from small arms solutions is the most knowledgeable dude when it comes to the AR15 currently I’ll take his word for it over some random dude on TH-cam reading some bureaucratic nonsense
Best CLP?
I made a video about best lube, which was Nano Oil and after that I'd say LSA. As for a CLP, specifically? Maybe G96, not really sure.
@fullspectrum1616 What clp did you use in the army? I like Radco Industries CLP. G96 is good stuff too. The G96 RBC type A is good stuff too! 😃
@@matbrewer9799 I can't even remember. Radco, G96, Breakfree are all milspec CLPs in inventory. You can look up what the military uses by the milspec on qpldocs.dla.mil
Karl from DeRanged used the forward assist in his mud test for the XM7 as Ian did in the POF mud test..Both are notorious anti FA yet they demonstrated why it was required.. During the bloke on the range YT video, another observer asked Ian where the FA was when he had malfunctions with the HK91 and FN FAL and couldn't get the bolts to lock because of a dirty action where a FA would have worked....Full Spectrum was vindicated again about the need for a Forward assist..
LSA for the win. It has staying power that CLP cannot match. Furthermore cleaning and lubricating are two opposing functions that don't mesh well. Clean with solvent and lube with LSA.
Like a boss!! 🔥
Awesome! 🔥💪
Yeah i've used d-limonene on the 240b. All i can say its the best gun cleaner ever. Way,way bettee than m pro 7. Carbon was practically turning into liquid and flowing out the weapon. D-limonene even was reaching the nookies and crannies of the 240b, kinda cleaning itself out. It was however good practice to wipe it off and apply lubricant/protectant.
Armorer can't say no to a gun smelling that fresh...
Coom Lube. Yes.
Last question, if the gun is cleaned before testing and you get a jam on a your first or second magazine, I don’t see how that would be the lubricants fault. That sounds like a mechanical failure on the rifle.
Those jams were purely frictional since a light tap on the forward assist was what fixed the problem. Friction comes from the lube not doing its job, and yes the lighter oils were getting blown off after only a single magazine.
Hey buddy love the review. I’ve tried looking for reviews on the Nano gun oil and couldn’t find anything. Do you know where I could find out more about this product?
It's pretty much marketed through 4chan and word of mouth.
Every time I see belt fed gun firing burst I’ll say:IT A MACHINE GUN!
Reading through the comments reminds me just how much I hate the idea of contaminating the bolt's lubricant with partially burned propellant and metal particles and turning that lube into a contaminated, baked-on layer of carbon from the very first trigger pull. That seems like almost as good of idea of doing the same to the any lube between the steel bolt carrier and the aluminum upper receiver. Yeah, I know that the AR-10 was designed in the 1950's to get the aluminum-experienced, aircraft manufacturer, Fairchild, an Army rifle contract in the 1950's when the idea of the next war not lasting more than the couple of days needed to escalate to nukes was a widely accepted theory. But, it was still a bad idea. At least now we have Type 4 anodizing that'as supposed to be harder than steel. But didn't they develop electroLESS nickel plating during WW2? Too expensive for a disposeable rifle, I guess. Pity, no one seemed to think about training with rifles for as many years as the planet-killing war they envisioned was successfuly avoided. Just checking in after being away and trying to catch up with responses that weren't hidden for YT notifications, (In this case, probably just the sheer volume of notifications since I've been away.) Apologies to anyone who wanted one and didn't get it.
Lots of GIs would nickel plate lugers they took home. Stoner was even nitriding the 63 barrel and bolt IIRC from the day it was offered to the military. The whole implied rationale for the chromed bolt & carrier was the "shit where it eats" meme being a concern even back when Stoner was designing it. I've found it implied (never directly stated) from original documents and people involved at the time. Of course, the chrome finish being expensive and a liability from flaking off as a plating was a reason to switch to phosphate (the same reason McNamara originally vetoed chrome lining the chamber and bore: cost). Even to this day the TiN coatings/platings can flake off just like the original chromed carriers.
@@fullspectrum1616 Not everything that glitters is actually gold.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely beautiful weapon system.
might I suggest you try a mixture of the following ( got this recipe from a sharpshooter at camp perry some 40 odd yrs. ago and have used it in ar style rifles, SKS & AK rifles, bolt action and numerous revolvers and semi auto pistols and I can count on one hand the jams I've had after 1,000 of rounds Ihave shot the recipe is as follows ; 1 qt of 5W-30 motor oil - 1qt ATF fluid - 1/2 bootle of blue STP -and 4 oz Hoppes #9 bore cleaner pour all this into a gal milk jug shake the heck out of it for a few min. and you got enough to last for a very long time. I have prob. made this lube up a total of 5 times in 40 odd yrs. and have used it ion all my guns without any issues there are a lot of names for this concoction but the one I was told is OLD RED lube have a great day
CLP cost $100 per quart a year ago? Herrick Lubricants "Accuracy Oil" under the Spartan Shooting Systems label is only $189 per GALLON, per their website today. (Yeah, normally $230-$240, but even THAT proves my point regarding cost). Something that works for half the price of something that NEVER HAS! 🤯
Was your Ballistol failure to feed on the 4th magazine a bolt over ride?
@@PeterWolfe2012 No, just failure to chamber.
@@fullspectrum1616 Cool. Thanks.
When CLP was tested before adoption, it was determined that it did not clean well. It was adopted to be a one-and-done "cleaner"-lubricant-preservative. In my experience, (1980's), it didn't protect against rust very well either. When the company commander dictated that CLP (BreakFree in one gallon plastic jub with attached long hose hose squeeze sprayer) be squirted down the muzzle until it ran out of the chamber and all over all the wrong surfaces; you were GUARANTEED malfunctions - failures to feed, bolt over stoppages, etc. THAT much lube did lube - for first few of shots burned it all off, trapping partially burned propellant trapped iin every "lubed" surface and formed a thick layer of carbon. No surprise there, what would you expect when you come and/or burn a petroleum distillate.
you will never ever get those rounds back 😔
One way mission
Use Breakthrough cleaning products and Weapon Shield on all my firearms. Haven't found a better lubricant than Weapon Shield.
Hey does the D-limonene clean the carbon(residue) that is so caked into the interior of the a weapon that it looks like its part of it and you cant even tell unless you get a napkin and run across the interior?
For that stuff you will have to scrub with a brush, the stiff blue ones from otis are nice for that without damaging the finish. It won't require you to sit there and forcefully scrub like you normally would, you will only need to lightly scrub and it will come off for caked on dry carbon. For instance on the AR15 upper receiver, I use a 12 gauge nylon bore brush and mineral spirits and it will come out white napkin clean after one wipe of a cloth.
I like using good ole flashing kerosene
Enjoyed the vid. I’ve used several you tested. They all get the job done for what I use them for. I’d be interested to know how the Geissele grease compares to the SOTARacha and others. Only place I use the Geissele grease is the BCG rails. I use their regular lube for everywhere else.
You usually cut Ballistol with water, to make what is known as "moose milk". The water lets it flow in the cold, the oil keeps the water from freezing. Not the best choice in this application, but for old wood stock gat or smoke poles it's hard to beat.
Good to know.
It is a shame that our stupid liberal federal government would put a "green mandate" on any of our military equipment! This is insane!
looks like wendigoon didn't watch your video
It's the usual: read the Atlantic article, Ezell+Stevens, choice snippets of the Ichord hearing, and maybe some Bartocci on the subject. There's almost no way for a normal person to get into AR15 history without coming away with a bad understanding.
I use mineral spirits mixed with mineral oil and nylon brush.
Whats the cliffs notes?
The "experts," when talking about the forward assist, are demonstrably wrong about how, when, and if to use it and why with some examples. This is supposed to be the tl;dr citation to what should be a short how to use the forward assist video that I will get around to making one day.
Depends on your environment and how you use them. Extreme cold might prefer a dry film spray or graphite powder. Even heard of WD40 in the snow to help remove moisture and it burns off to help keep the gun dry. That said a friend in Washington State has snowy winters and he uses CLP and motor oil on all his AR's and other guns. I'm use to hot tropical environments so I use INOX MX3 mineral oil CLP, and MX6 or lanolin grease. All work well, especially against rust, and non-toxic. And good old motor oil, whatever viscosity I can get away with: 10W-40, 15W-40, even 20W-50. Again just depends on temperatures and environment. Good presentation and research report 👍
Hmmm . . . WD-40 would be good for removing the moisture. Not living in the NW, I'll necessarily rely on Rumor Control to ask if the winters may have less humidity than other environments. It seems like a WD-40 water displacement followed by pretty much any oil with a viscosoty low enough for the temperature would well. Signed, Captain Obvious.
I'm use to hot and tropical climates where rust is a common problem. I use Australian INOX MX3, a non-toxic mineral based CLP oil. It's common and affordable here. Good multi-purpose and does a great job cleaning and protecting from rust. If I need thicker I use MX6 and or a generic Lanolin waterproof grease. In SE Asia and Philippines I only had access to basic things. I used kerosene and WD40 as a cleaner, and 10W-40 motor oil lube. All worked and very affordable. Most 'gun oils' are basically mineral based motor oil in fancy packaging. If you have time you don't really need solvents. Just soak with mineral oil. The longer the better as it lifts up more fouling. Then wipe it clean and pull a bore snake through. You might like FrogLube liquid and paste, also non-toxic and eats rust. Good comparison review and summary report 👍
Totally agree on proper maintenance and care. Cleaning is a safety standard. I'll add anything you use solvent on, neutralize with mineral oil after. Some solvents and cleaners are so strong they'll strip the finish and keep eating through. Good tutorial and demo 👍
I'd love to see a winter recheck when the season arises!
I probably won't do that since it cost me over $1,000 to do this test in ammo alone.
Best lube? Hoppes 9 when cleaning it. Anything else is wrong, because if it was worth it, they'd have made hoppes 9
If Hoppes 9 is so good, then why isn't there a Hoppes 10? Apparently, it's also mostly kerosene and banana oil fragrance.
Your Sotaracha is too thick, good video
Thanks!
I like Slip 2000 EWL and EWL 30 with tungsten disulfide mixed in.
I like Slip 2000 EWL and EWL 30 with tungsten disulfide mixed in.
Great test. I wonder if the 30W Slip2000 would fare any better since it's heavier
Thanks! I think it would have performed better - probably slightly behind the lucas oil.
@@fullspectrum1616 It makes me wonder if one could produce the best of both worlds by mixing Nano Oil and Mobil 1 grease to concoct the ultimate Gucci-fied SOTARacha haha. Love your content. Keep up the good work
Sorry, I don't watch videos featuring "Gun Jesus" and his satan-worshipping friend Karl.
If it makes you feel better, they don't seem to be friends anymore.
Solid argument. Karl is a Klown and the whole WWSD project was just a grift. My experience with the M16A2 as an infantryman proved to me that the FA is useful and necessary, if for no other reason than it is easy to use, easy to train, and much more of a gross motor skill solution than the charging handle prototype or the bolt scallop would offer. Slap>Pull>Observe>Release>TAP>Shoot. Plus when spending two weeks in the box at JRTC/NTC/JOTC, the FA is a godsend for running the rifle with blanks. Further, many, many recruits lack familiarity with guns, let alone the M16/AR15 platform and the FA is cheap insurance for assuring a round is loaded and the bolt fully closed when they ride the charging handle forward.
I do the oil-grease mix along with some non dexron ATF. I got the idea from someone else long ago.
Seems to do more good than harm if you know how to use it. That being said if you know how to run the damn thing like Clint Smith, he can look at the problem and fix it. If you want to be a badass like Clint Smith you need to be able to look at a problem and fix it
I have been using the Slip2000 grease and AGL very thin grease in the -50c winters we get up here in Northern Canada to lube all my firearms I use a little hobby model paintbrush and apply a thin layer on all the parts that slide and I have found these greases work so well as they stay where you applied it and when it comes to cleaning it involves just wiping it off, wiping it down with some slip2000 gun oil then reapply the grease again and I my firearms have run amazing I will not use oil anymore as a lube for my firearms it just either drys away or migrates from gravity to the low spots eventually and these two greases just work awesome
Very cool to hear to hear that, thanks for sharing.
What he said.
Just watch the video of Stoner telling it the way it is.
CLP failed German Army tests back in the day because of its -toxicity -solvents (evaporation when cleaning in barracks) - teflon settling at the bottom of the oil. So they developed S-761. The dutch used Break-Free, then switched to S-761 as well. I have been using S-761 for years, it doesn't evaporate as much as Break Free so it can be used for longer storage. Also didn't burn off nearly as badly and decent cleaner. Outstanding oil.
I can believe that, thanks for sharing. Modern Breakfree does not use teflon anymore and G96 also does not use teflon, so it seems that teflon has been dropped from the modern formulations for the better. Apparently, G96 doesn't use solvents either, so G96 might be able to qualify for S-761. In any case, it makes a lot more sense why the Germans would have developed an alternate "CLP" spec back then.
@@fullspectrum1616 well the germans never used solvents. S-761 did the job just fine, never had an issue or noticed much difference between S-758 an S-761. I dont remember the exact number but S-758 under mil 63460D had to remove at least 70 or 80 Percent of the fouling. If I am not mistaken, the new F formula has a much lower percentage, like 30%, but google gives you the answer. Anyway, since the new formula 63460F becane the nato spec, both the dutch S-761 by Milispec and the german S-761 by Addinol have the official S-758 designation in addition to the S-761. My order last year was the first time it waa mentioned in the datasheet. The older S-761 I used until 7 or 8 years ago (darker than the new stuff which is orange to yellow) was in every single detail like g96 clp. Same smell, colour consistency. I put S-761 in empty g96 bottles, couldnt tell the difference.
@@fullspectrum1616 as for ballistol, my great grandfather used it ready in the 20s. It is an outstanding oil but you have to keep in mind it's 120 years old, now way it performs like S-761 or modern oil. Nevertheless, unless you rund tons of mags or a machine gun somewhere in Afghanistan, you are just fine. My old man picked up a Mauser 98 in WW1, still like new and never seen anything but ballistol. Same for tools, a shed full of old non stainless tools, gransfors axes, a forge, scythes and ballistol is the only oil that preserves them 100%. A thick coat applied, it will stick for years, plus alkaline so neutralizes sweat and acids from grass, trees, sweat. 8 years ago we had a flood while I was away and the basement was damp, gunsafe even had some water inside. 4 months later when I was back, not a trace of rust on the ballistol guns. ( and I own a stg44...) In all the 10s of thousands of rounds, none of us has ever used anything but ballistol for years, worked just fine. My m92fs is still tight almost like new after 15k rounds. Never noticed any excessive wear. Just reapply it more often and you shoudl be fine. Plus 100% safe, we use it on small wounds, horses, dogs, literally anything in Europe. For our boys in uniform there is better stuff, for the average joe its great
The old mil63460 S-758 had to remove some 80% of residue, so contained solvent. Not sure about the exact %, google will help. The new mil 63460F formula has a much lower percentage. 30% something. In fact the old S-761 until some 10 years ago, looked and smelled just like g96 clp. Couldn' t tell a difference. The new S-761 is a bit different but better. Dutch stuff orange, german yellow. Since the new Mil 63460F formula with the lower requirement for residue removal has been introduced, S-761 made both by milispec in the Netherlands and Addinol in Germany ( btw they produced W18 oil for the east german army too) now feature the S-758 approval as well. First appeared on the packaging like 2 or 3 years ago if I remember.
@@georgewashington92 I agree, for normal use most people will never need anything beyond whatever their first choice is at a gun store or even using motor oil. I just wanted to try this since suppressors can add much harsher conditions than unsuppressed high round counts do with considerably less cost. As far as I can tell, this is probably the most diverse and one of the few videos that has an actual live fire test of more than one lube. I also learned a lot doing this even beyond just about lubricants.
I use G96
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Some really good information in this. I first learned about this argument from Forgotten Weapons. I thought it convincing initially, but questioned it because I don't trust men with long hair, or other effeminate features, to give accurate information. I then leaned he was wrong, and this video confirms my position. Physiognomy is real, folks.
I remember Ian saying in a video once that part of the reason for his distinctive long hair and facial hair is that he knows that if he needs to, he could disappear into a bathroom with a pair of scissors and a razor, then walk out a few minutes later past a crowd of his fans without being recognised. He may well have been joking, but it's not a bad plan.
Mineral spirits are the best... All my competition guns get scrubbed with it... after an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner with simple green
pretty sure the nano oil stuff is just 5$ bulk chinease PTFE bought off ali exp and suspended in some random olifin oil and called nano particles. its service range of up to 503F is why i think that. most the spec sheets for ptfe dry lubricant give the service temp range up to 503F... or 260C. idk for shooting steel case and using polymer mags, i would think a ptfe dry lube would be the best. a lot of oil lubes ive seen degrade plastic over very long timelines. ptfe powder is sometimes found in electrical wires inplace of the old talk powder.
Its PTFE free, the 503°F is the FlashPoint. PTFE shouldnt be used in gun oils to prevent HF gas contamination
@@nanoarmschemistry4281 HF? As in hydrogen fluoride? Yikes! "Small" amounts, yes. But how many more corrosive compounds do we even know?
@@PeterWolfe2012 chlorinated additives turn into hydrochloric acid, PTFE or fluorinated Additives into hydrofluoric acid... but basic compounds inside lubricants can absorb them to prevent lubricant degredation from acids... thats more of of problem older industrial products got, now its mostly Phosphor and sulfur based. The best toys for amazing lubricants are environment unfriendly, thats kind of sad
@@nanoarmschemistry4281 I remember the friend who owned a motorcycle garage telling me about this fantastic, water-resistant, new racing motorcycle grease that was really the cat's ass for guns. He was right. It was great. But then I used it to prepare a 1911 for long-term storage. After a year or so in the humidity of the Mid-South, I sold it to a friend starting up a new DuraCoat-based business. Later he asked what in the HELL I had done to destroy the pistol. That's when I found out that molydenum disulfide reasted with water, and water vapor in the air, to create sulfuric acid. What REALLY pisses me off about the whole "moly" for shooting craze is a technical report I found just aa few years ago that pre-dated the whole craze that talked all about the disulfide reaction. So the manufacturers KNEW, or should have. How many guns and barrels were destroyed for greed?
Good video. Project farms cop video gets mentioned a lot however my issue with it is it’s never used with an actual gun in any of his tests. Would love to see you test clenzoil since that was one of the best over all performers and the best lubricating properties.
Ive always wondered how automotive fuel injector carbon cleaners would work on firearms vs. firearm soecific carbon cleaners. I'd do the test myself, but unfortunately, I don't shoot much.
Seems like it could be a good cleaner. STP lists their injector cleaner as 80%+ kerosene, and the next highest ingredient as napth, then various methylated benzenes. It would say it would clean a little better than RBC, limonene, and mineral spirits, but not as good as TCE. It seems to also proportionally be bad for your health as well. I think, principally, the best bet for a cleaner is to get all the the carbon and debris in the lube you apply to the gun and the best nonpolar based degreaser can take that lube off your gun while it is carrying the carbon fouling with it. I think that is why the non-water based solvents did better in my test. It then makes sense to pick the strongest of those that aren't carcinogenic, are available, and within your budget.