This is absolutely amazing. Thank you SO much for doing these! I strongly recommend getting inside a cylinder and showing how all that works. I had an emergency landing last week (as a solo student pilot, no less) due to a cracked cylinder. Taking it off the aircraft with our mechanic was a tremendous experience. If you can show others how that works, it would help a lot of people. Keep up the great work!
Brilliant. I'd really enjoy a series of videos, with as much detail as this one, showing a complete engine strip down. A huge amount of work for you, I know, but worth it (for the viewers, anyway!).
Do we like this? YES! My mechanic has let me help out with several annuals. We don’t always have the time to go in depth to how stuff works, especially with my novice understanding of engines and electronics. This video put a lot of pieces together for me.
Love this, I don't just want to fly a plane but i mainly want a thorough understanding of how things works behind the scenes to actually understand what is happening inside the airplane. Thanks so much for this
Very good instructional teaching video. Years ago I worked in avionics but always wanted to know more about small aircraft. A friend is training to be a A&P mechanic on the mission field. Obviously he has a lot to learn. Thanks for increasing our knowledge.
LOVEEEE all of the informational items that are shown on this video 📹 👏🏿!!! This is what I wanna see 👀!!! Enjoy the in depth terminology and the total explanation of the processes/procedures of the mechanical aspects of the engine (powerplant) build!! KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK AND KEEP DOIN WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!! Cant wait!!, for the next information filled with video 📹 from your channel!!! Great job and thanks!!
Jon, I enjoy your adventure videos... but this engine step-by-step tear down is by far my favorite. As a non-mechanical person, it's super-valuable to have you go thru these detailed discussions. Thanks! Wayne (DA40 KSBA)
Whether it matters or not on this engine, you shouldn't run your ground through the crank, thus going through your crank bearings, and in turn arcing through the bearing, they will surly let you down shortly.
I'll watch anything you want to create for sure. I will remain teachable until the day I die so bring on the knowledge brother 😁 I appreciate you taking the time and sharing these videos with us all.
@@anthonybenavides720 there’s a bunch of videos Alaska Aircraft Cylinder put out on assembling overhauls, really really great stuff on what it should look like. Something you might be interested as it includes inspection for yellow tag.
@@anthonybenavides720 John does a great way of explaining this stuff, and is great for a ppl to have an idea how it works so that your preflight safe good. The AkCylinder vids are for if you want to start working towards your A&P or building an experimental. Also watching the AKC stuff gives you an idea of ownership what goes into an overhaul or what is checked after a prop strike. th-cam.com/video/bWOa2tFQ3fw/w-d-xo.html
By the way, your videos are going to a deep level of instruction and understanding, that I could never had, when I got my private pilot certificate. Outstanding!
Thanks for your videos they are very interested please I like to know something on the magneto's how they are in touch to the engine and how servicing the Megan Magneto
This is fascinating. I have been flying for 20 years and and learning from this. Do more !! One build - as you pull of parts I like to know approximate cost to replace the part -- eg. $30 or $1,000. Thanks !!
With my Lycoming D2A the crank propeller flange has threaded inserts. The bolts you show in your video are AN bolts with a fixed thread grip. No matter the length of the bolts, the threaded length is the same. There is a big problem. The threaded insert length which are coupled with the propeller flange are greater than those of the AN bolts. The bolt will bottom out long before the threads will protrude past that of the length of threads in the insert. In a nut shell, the insert threads are longer than any AN bolt period and no exception. Even with the propeller off of the engine and the bolts threaded to the propeller flange which are designed to use inserts, the threads of an AN bolts will not protrude. Now this is a problem if you are of the mind when dealing with fiber lock nuts and the rule there is to have two threads of protrusion. Does this apply to propeller bolts? Obviously not If a AN bolt with its limited thread grip is used. If the propeller is the same as when the aircraft was certified and the bolts are the same as when the aircraft was certified, then we know that regardless of thread protrusion, ie a visual inspection, the full grip of those bolt threads are fully engaged. But what if this engine is now on an experimental aircraft with a wooden propeller and the thickness f the propeller is different? What If the builder knows this and has measured and installed the proper length of bolts to insure thread grip into the inserts but no threads protrude because it is impossible for those protrusions to occur, certified aircraft of not but the inspector pops you and fails the build because even they are mislead by the myth of the two thread protrusion propagated by the fiber lock/ friction lock requirements but applied wrongly to other bolts and fasteners. How do you assure then, if those who are now screaming the two thread protrusion is the law, a threaded fastener hole in a crank case and the partnered has the proper grip. You don’t visually. The threaded inserts which are found in many Lycoming 0320 crank shaft propeller flange engines are wider than the grip of AN bolts. A two thread protrusion is impossible no mater the thickness of the propeller. This is a fact Jack. So what now? No one really seems to know. No one yet can point to a publication which addresses this specifically. If the propeller flange is directly threaded ( not with threaded inserts)and the thickness of the propeller is as the certified propeller, I expect the threads will protrude.
Awesome video. Very well explained, learned lot, thanks! Seems like this is part of a series. If so, where is part 1? If not, make it part of a series -- very interested in continuing to learn!
Hey John, thanks very much for this video, it's yesterday at work here in England UK, for the PA28 aircraft, l removed the analogous of those electromagnetic switch(solenoid, relay, inductor, coil or choke) as its sometimes called different places in the world. That transduce electrical energy to the starter and other loads with respect to its switching or operational sequences. I am delighted that you made a cross sectional cut in the device so l could see how the inside structure is composed, inductor windings. Great awareness for me, l have subscribed to your channel and l will recommend to my team of engineers at work to do so as well..
Please don't use the DVOM in resistance/continuity mode in order to measure the ground connections. It might look OK for small currents (DVOM supplies a very low current) but for the high loads it might not. My preferred way is to supply a constant current (at least 1/10th of max. current) and measure the voltage drop.
Great idea to have a back up alternator belt already good to go in case of an unfortunate damage to the original one, on a remote area like Alaska. Now, a question here: if the back up belt attached with a zip tie, which is pretty much made of plastic; could the plastic material melt due to the heat of the engine, then get all loose and cause more damage while in flight ? I was just wondering. I’d appreciate your input. Thanks John!
HI John, great content ! I have a question and a comment: Comment: the shear strength of a grade 8 bolt like this is much greater than the holding power of the threads in tension Question: if you are working on a certified airplane that is no longer manufactured or supported, can you fabricate (CNC machning) replacement parts and have them installed by and A&P or do they have to come from the manufacturer or an approved replacement source ?
@@rosettahaze let me clarify my point and add a few more: 1. Bolts subjected to pure static load (and properly torqued) will almost always fail at the base of the head 2. But bolts subjected to a dynamic load (and properly torqued) will usually fail in the first few treads of the bolt. I believe this is the case for a propeller because of the crackshaft vibrations. 3. The typical shear strength of a bolt is around 0.6 times the tensile strength
I would suggest marking the prop position on the crankshaft flange before removal. Also, grounding through the crankshaft flange is a bad idea. The current might be carried through the bearings.
Not that I would ever do that belt trick… I don’t think the belt trick would be considered an STCable or an alteration for that matter. It doesn’t change the structure and would not appreciably effect weight and balance. Even if it did, it would classify at most as a minor. It’s just secured cargo and I’m almost thinking when you used it, that it would fall under owner operator approved maintenance??? Since your not having to remove the prop. Just my opinion of course…
This is absolutely amazing. Thank you SO much for doing these! I strongly recommend getting inside a cylinder and showing how all that works. I had an emergency landing last week (as a solo student pilot, no less) due to a cracked cylinder. Taking it off the aircraft with our mechanic was a tremendous experience. If you can show others how that works, it would help a lot of people. Keep up the great work!
Brilliant. I'd really enjoy a series of videos, with as much detail as this one, showing a complete engine strip down. A huge amount of work for you, I know, but worth it (for the viewers, anyway!).
Yes.. very good
Do we like this? YES! My mechanic has let me help out with several annuals. We don’t always have the time to go in depth to how stuff works, especially with my novice understanding of engines and electronics. This video put a lot of pieces together for me.
Love this type of video
very cool! any chance to see the primer in action?
thank you very much for another very good, informative video. it really helps new learners like me
Glad to hear that!
Love this, I don't just want to fly a plane but i mainly want a thorough understanding of how things works behind the scenes to actually understand what is happening inside the airplane. Thanks so much for this
Cool video. I love working on my cars. Very interesting to see how plane engine is put together
Thank you
you are amazing. thank you.
Thank you too!
Very good instructional teaching video. Years ago I worked in avionics but always wanted to know more about small aircraft. A friend is training to be a A&P mechanic on the mission field. Obviously he has a lot
to learn. Thanks for increasing our knowledge.
LOVEEEE all of the informational items that are shown on this video 📹 👏🏿!!! This is what I wanna see 👀!!! Enjoy the in depth terminology and the total explanation of the processes/procedures of the mechanical aspects of the engine (powerplant) build!! KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK AND KEEP DOIN WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!! Cant wait!!, for the next information filled with video 📹 from your channel!!! Great job and thanks!!
Thanks for doing these videos !!! Super informative
Glad you like them! Make sure to keep checking back for more videos like this!
Jon, I enjoy your adventure videos... but this engine step-by-step tear down is by far my favorite. As a non-mechanical person, it's super-valuable to have you go thru these detailed discussions. Thanks! Wayne (DA40 KSBA)
This is not only helpful for GA pilots, but also for those interested in experimental/kit building.
THANK YOU! what a masterclass!
Excellent Jon! I learned more watching this than any book has ever taught me about the starter system. Love these videos, please keep them coming 👌👏👏
Whether it matters or not on this engine, you shouldn't run your ground through the crank, thus going through your crank bearings, and in turn arcing through the bearing, they will surly let you down shortly.
Great video, hope that is an ocean plastic bracelet. I had one but they don’t last forever, but good cause
AWESOME STUFF!
I'll watch anything you want to create for sure. I will remain teachable until the day I die so bring on the knowledge brother 😁 I appreciate you taking the time and sharing these videos with us all.
Thanks a lot
Great video
Glad you liked it!
I'm still waiting on more videos like this
Thanks for the video. More info on everything please.
This is awesome! Such good breakdowns! I'd love to know how the whole engine works, part by part. Magnetos have always eluded me, for example.
Amazing video, thank you
This is the BEST one so far.
Please continue this tear down!
@@anthonybenavides720 there’s a bunch of videos Alaska Aircraft Cylinder put out on assembling overhauls, really really great stuff on what it should look like. Something you might be interested as it includes inspection for yellow tag.
@@AkPacerPilot Would a private pilot candidate benefit from those videos? I really liked the way rudimentary way John explained everything.
@@anthonybenavides720 John does a great way of explaining this stuff, and is great for a ppl to have an idea how it works so that your preflight safe good. The AkCylinder vids are for if you want to start working towards your A&P or building an experimental. Also watching the AKC stuff gives you an idea of ownership what goes into an overhaul or what is checked after a prop strike.
th-cam.com/video/bWOa2tFQ3fw/w-d-xo.html
By the way, your videos are going to a deep level of instruction and understanding, that I could never had, when I got my private pilot certificate. Outstanding!
Thanks for your videos they are very interested please I like to know something on the magneto's how they are in touch to the engine and how servicing the Megan Magneto
Fascinating and hilarious about the backup alternator belt.
Glad to see more videos! Thanks Jon and crew!
Great Video Waiting for a part 2
This is fascinating. I have been flying for 20 years and and learning from this. Do more !! One build - as you pull of parts I like to know approximate cost to replace the part -- eg. $30 or $1,000. Thanks !!
30 grand start price
this helps a ton, please continue to make great videos like this
Excellent information and detail.
With my Lycoming D2A the crank propeller flange has threaded inserts. The bolts you show in your video are AN bolts with a fixed thread grip. No matter the length of the bolts, the threaded length is the same. There is a big problem. The threaded insert length which are coupled with the propeller flange are greater than those of the AN bolts. The bolt will bottom out long before the threads will protrude past that of the length of threads in the insert. In a nut shell, the insert threads are longer than any AN bolt period and no exception. Even with the propeller off of the engine and the bolts threaded to the propeller flange which are designed to use inserts, the threads of an AN bolts will not protrude. Now this is a problem if you are of the mind when dealing with fiber lock nuts and the rule there is to have two threads of protrusion. Does this apply to propeller bolts? Obviously not If a AN bolt with its limited thread grip is used.
If the propeller is the same as when the aircraft was certified and the bolts are the same as when the aircraft was certified, then we know that regardless of thread protrusion, ie a visual inspection, the full grip of those bolt threads are fully engaged. But what if this engine is now on an experimental aircraft with a wooden propeller and the thickness f the propeller is different? What If the builder knows this and has measured and installed the proper length of bolts to insure thread grip into the inserts but no threads protrude because it is impossible for those protrusions to occur, certified aircraft of not but the inspector pops you and fails the build because even they are mislead by the myth of the two thread protrusion propagated by the fiber lock/ friction lock requirements but applied wrongly to other bolts and fasteners.
How do you assure then, if those who are now screaming the two thread protrusion is the law, a threaded fastener hole in a crank case and the partnered has the proper grip. You don’t visually.
The threaded inserts which are found in many Lycoming 0320 crank shaft propeller flange engines are wider than the grip of AN bolts. A two thread protrusion is impossible no mater the thickness of the propeller. This is a fact Jack. So what now? No one really seems to know. No one yet can point to a publication which addresses this specifically.
If the propeller flange is directly threaded ( not with threaded inserts)and the thickness of the propeller is as the certified propeller, I expect the threads will protrude.
Awesome video. Very well explained, learned lot, thanks! Seems like this is part of a series. If so, where is part 1? If not, make it part of a series -- very interested in continuing to learn!
Love this series, keep it up.
Hey John, thanks very much for this video, it's yesterday at work here in England UK, for the PA28 aircraft, l removed the analogous of those electromagnetic switch(solenoid, relay, inductor, coil or choke) as its sometimes called different places in the world. That transduce electrical energy to the starter and other loads with respect to its switching or operational sequences.
I am delighted that you made a cross sectional cut in the device so l could see how the inside structure is composed, inductor windings.
Great awareness for me, l have subscribed to your channel and l will recommend to my team of engineers at work to do so as well..
Keep'em coming! Would really like to see a full IRAN on the engine!
YES, YES, YES, MORE VIDEOS. CFIAM/A&P JOE COVINO LAKE HAVASU CITY, ARIZONA.
I love the in depth stuff! I’d love to see more of it!
loving this content cue ball
I love these videos! Keep them coming!
Great video!
I need this!
Thank you!!
Thank you for great video!!! Please make more! Cheers from Italy ❤️🇮🇹🍕🤩
Please don't use the DVOM in resistance/continuity mode in order to measure the ground connections. It might look OK for small currents (DVOM supplies a very low current) but for the high loads it might not. My preferred way is to supply a constant current (at least 1/10th of max. current) and measure the voltage drop.
Bro, this video is top tier. Thanks for taking the time to go into such detail.
Very very helpful instruction. Makes a world of difference to actually see it and not just read theory.
Glad it helps! Check out the rest of the videos from this series at learn.fly8ma.com/piper-cherokee-tear-down/
This is going to be a great series, did I miss the intro that explains where this wreckage came from?
He has a Playlist on his channel called "what's inside an airplane"
FANTASTIC! A MILLION thanks!
Great stuff Jon!
Love this series!
Awesome video, all good stuff!
Great idea to have a back up alternator belt already good to go in case of an unfortunate damage to the original one, on a remote area like Alaska. Now, a question here: if the back up belt attached with a zip tie, which is pretty much made of plastic; could the plastic material melt due to the heat of the engine, then get all loose and cause more damage while in flight ? I was just wondering. I’d appreciate your input. Thanks John!
I’d find the high temp zip ties, or depending on open bolt holes or existing bolts in that area you could add an Adel clamp to hold it
This vid is AWESOME. Love it. Keep this stuff coming.
Enjoyed!
These videos are really interesting and gives a deeper understanding of our flying machines… Keep up the great work 👍🏻
A deeper understanding to what farmers knew about their tractors 60+ years ago….
True, but seems to be a lost art these days
HI John, great content ! I have a question and a comment:
Comment: the shear strength of a grade 8 bolt like this is much greater than the holding power of the threads in tension
Question: if you are working on a certified airplane that is no longer manufactured or supported, can you fabricate (CNC machning) replacement parts and have them installed by and A&P or do they have to come from the manufacturer or an approved replacement source ?
@@rosettahaze let me clarify my point and add a few more:
1. Bolts subjected to pure static load (and properly torqued) will almost always fail at the base of the head
2. But bolts subjected to a dynamic load (and properly torqued) will usually fail in the first few treads of the bolt. I believe this is the case for a propeller because of the crackshaft vibrations.
3. The typical shear strength of a bolt is around 0.6 times the tensile strength
Moreeeee
This is Great
I would suggest marking the prop position on the crankshaft flange before removal. Also, grounding through the crankshaft flange is a bad idea. The current might be carried through the bearings.
Fantastic!
you are destroyer of very nice parts for Cherokee :)
Is there a part 2?
so helpful thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
You're so welcome!
10/10 thank you !
trying to start it while it is moving instead of waiting to stop turning
"Don't go to NAPA to get the belt" I've literally flown an aircraft with a spare belt in the back - NAPA branded.
How does one figuratively flown an aircraft?
@@rafborrero Well, there I was, FL370, upside down, on fire, losing airspeed, and engine one had just went "poof" and I knew I needed to....
'deed I do like these videos
Not that I would ever do that belt trick… I don’t think the belt trick would be considered an STCable or an alteration for that matter. It doesn’t change the structure and would not appreciably effect weight and balance. Even if it did, it would classify at most as a minor. It’s just secured cargo and I’m almost thinking when you used it, that it would fall under owner operator approved maintenance??? Since your not having to remove the prop. Just my opinion of course…
Haha....I like your thinking!
@@fly8ma.comflighttraining199 it’s not really thinking as much as how I read the regs. It’s not a modification… lol it’s just stored cargo. 😂
Everything
damn, man, you are amazing
I appreciate it, Ben!
UTAH JAZZ
Well ya, when ya toss melons into propellers.. :D
Mr Worldwide
T
14v not 12v. New systems are 28v just fyi
Sorry, but there is just too much over explaining of common sense stuff for me, sounds like you are talking to a15 year old