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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Videos in this series~
(part 1) Chainsaw beam guide from wood
► • Chainsaw beam guide fr...
(part 2) DIY Chainsaw Mini Mill Counterbalance:
► • DIY Chainsaw Mini Mill...
(part 3 ) DIY Chainsaw Mini Mill Quick Clamp:
► • DIY Chainsaw Mini Mill...
(part 4) Log Prep & Procedure for DIY Chainsaw Mini Mill:
► • DIY Chainsaw Mini Mill...
If you want more milling procedure tips, also read the description sections of the previous videos. The next video in this series will explain how to mill a log down as it gets smaller.
Chapters:
0:00 ►Old way
2:08 ►New clamp
8:04 ►Rail overhang
9:42 ►Clamp setup
10:19 ►Milling
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Pocket, I've been watching your videos for years. I don't even own a chainsaw, nor have a need to mill wood. I watch your content because I admire your approach to problem solving. I believe you are a genius. Thank you for your content, it's very useful, and entertaining. Keep up the great work.
I second your opinion
Third. This is exactly why i watch.
I agree this man very intellectual and great problem solver . I will continue to watch all his videos
This came in at just the right time for me: My neighbor cut down a big black walnut tree and I couldn't bear to see it get mulched, so I paid the loggers to drop some big pieces in my backyard with their machines so I wouldn't have to figure out how to move them. Thanks!
Outstanding. ✊ A nail also works…and maybe a shim. (A hammer on the belt is an instantaneous thing.) ✌️🍷🎩🎩🎩
WOW! I REALLY like your design. I’m about to try this myself and all 3 videos ave been very helpful. Thanks for posting.
Dude your video's are awesome! Spot on explanatory segments on how to . I like how you MacGyver'ed this chainsaw guide and made it better than box store purchase. Im going to MacGyver my own with the help of a welder . Same concept except I'm going steel with a few mods of my own. Sir i thank you very much for the inspirational video's you make and im going to hit the lab soon for design and measurements.
Good day to you Sir keep up the good work and keep doing lumber videos (satisfying) if you have time for them ill have time to watch.
What a ridiculously simple, yet extremely efficient design! Very well done and thank you.
I always really love getting to see your problem solving. It's so helpful to see how freely you explore options. Like, I am just not used to thinking about things like modifying my clamps! Seeing you explore that option helps break me out of my own mental box!
Best advice I can give you in life is this:
_There are no rules._
goes strictly against my mantra: everything is true, nothing is permitted 😀
I have watched a lot of videos on milling with a chainsaw, and I think yours is the best.
Your common sense approach that makes using even a small saw work well. Having the saw cut with the grain instead of across it like so many other mill rigs do, is so much easier on the saw, bar, and chain. Your results speak for themselves. I wish I had seen your designs before I bought a Granberg Alaskan Mill and a larger saw. I have now made a set up similar to yours that I hope to try out soon.
You'll have to note that this setup is not a complete replacement for your mill. Yours has a second point of attachment to reduce error on the bar, so it'll still work better for thick (9"+) slabs. Since you'll be one of the few out there who has tried both, I would really appreciate your feedback after you give it a whirl.
As for other videos, it's tough to know what to believe. Channels rush to post content for their not-so-well-developed ideas, and then they use fast-paced editing to gloss over the details. Most design snags are conveniently omitted. In reality, the majority of the 'DIY mills' out there simply won't work as well as this one does, but you'll have to be detail-oriented in order to get the same results: the prep work, counterweight, light passes, z-clamp, and a new chain are all a must. I'm afraid that some of the viewers who _do_ try this will think that they can take some shortcuts-but then they'll end up with a so-so result. Lots of thought went into this series to make it simple, so I appreciate that you noticed!
@@pocket83squared > Thank you for your response.
Last year I bought a 36" Alaskan mill. The saw I tried with it was a Poulan Pro PP5020 (50cc 20"bar). The log I was cutting was too large in dia. for such a small bar, if I were to clamp it at the bar end (behind the sprocket tip). So it was clamped near the dog only. The log was 12' long and the saw struggled to make 2 cuts. In the process it overheated the saw. When I checked the air filter, it was completely clogged with super fine dust. I had already ordered some larger saws because I wanted to have one that could run a 36" bar. This all happened before I saw your first video. Your design makes the deepest cuts from a saw with a short bar better than any other design I have seen. But more important, in my opinion, is that most of the cuts you take are making noodles rather than fine dust. I haven't opened up the Poulan yet, but I'm pretty sure it's toast. I got a foam prefilter for the new saw's air cleaner, so hopefully I won't have to rebuild the new one.
I'd love to send you info on what I plan to do with pictures but don't see a way to email you
Your cuts seem to be the best I've seen. Excellent job.
Thanks a lot. This year's milling video should be out within the week, and it's the most refined yet.
First jig I am impressed with chainsaw milling, you are going quite fast with a very underpowered saw for milling, way faster than many jigs that they sell in stores!
Thanks a bunch. After a few years now, I have it down to a science. If you watch the most recent video, you can see really nice results. Here:
th-cam.com/video/alClPHQMeMk/w-d-xo.html
Nice! I forgot about your milling jig and I'm glad for the reminder AND upgrade! Looks to be as perfect a diy chainsaw mill one could build.
In my adventures at my local metal recycler I got lucky and found several sticks of industrial strength aluminum t-slot rail (like 8020 but beefier and, well, BEEFIER!). Several 10 footers. I think one one be perfect for the guide. And clamping would be done with f-clamps from the bottom side. Essentially the same as yours here. I got the idea right here from this video!
Excellent job, and thanks for sharing this!
Great work, thanks for sharing
Of course. I appreciate it ;)
Nice job. God Bless
keywords: "Wranglerstar is a tool". SEO at it's best.
Its. And those were just random keywords. 'Is a tool' must be a genre or something. I'll have marketing get back to you.
@@pocket83squared Forgot my strongbad mnemonic song there for a second. whoops.
My dear friend, I just want to do one by myself now! Great job. My forest is waiting for me.
This is a great idea, and I've thought of an improvement. Use a cee perlin or metal stud, open side up, for your rail. Then you can just cut a slot for the for the clamp bar to slip through. Slip the sliding jaw off of the clamp and drop it through the hole. No modifications necessary.
"Improvement" might be a stretch. More like 'alternative.' You're talking about a redesign, and a heavy one at that.
Not to be discouraging, but you'll have a tough time beating mine in terms of ease of use and simplicity; metal comes with its own set of challenges. "No modifications necessary," huh? Hmmm. I dunno. Sounds like it might entail one or two.
Wow, thank you so much for the clamps idea. I am definitely modifying my clamps. 👌
Now I’m even more keen to build mine. Thanks for sharing the jig and for this improvement!
This is next level. Them Alaskan mills can cost a good amount for the rails system. Thank you!
This the video i hav bin lookingn for thanks
Zero deflection…love this channel..always excited when a new vid drops…
To make lining up your cuts faster, cut a short piece of 2x4 to 2 3/8" wide with another small board attached to one side hanging down below the edge of the 2x4 slightly to form a lip. Then just lay your jig on the top of the log push and register the lip against the vertical side. Now you can just push your long 2x6 up against it and you have a perfect 2 3/8(or whatever width you choose) without measuring.
That's a great idea. In fact, I've already been using a jig like that. The newest mill video will be out this week, so you'll see it in action.
Love the clamping upgrade. After your first few mill vids I made my own mill similar to yours. However I used scrap angle iron and square tube with a welded construction. I do need to add some weight but it works great.
Beautiful!
great problem solving skills! i love your videos ! just a tiny comment for you and the algorithm gods
That’s AWESOME! As you’ve seen from my video, I’ve been using that mill for awhile with awesome results! Now I know what I’m goin to be spending my weekend building!
Alright! Good luck. With the clamp and the counterweights, it's super-satisfying.
this is heckin amazing!! thank you!
Amazing job, bro. Congrats.
I watched your three part series, thank you for doing this work and sharing your improvements. That's some really pretty maple and cherry. 1x6x8 S4S Cherry board from Home Depot is about $50 a board, and that's not FAS or select. You've got some FAS and select board in there if you saw it up. Just a table top glue up alone after planing, jointing and sizing the select from that one timber can fetch a very nice price. And it's not like lumber prices are ever going to go down, and stay down.
Awesome videos/ideas. I've been looking for a method to use up two large oaks that the gypsy moths killed a couple years back. Rather than cutting them up for cordwood, I'd make good lumber out of the trunks, and burn the crowns in the woodstove. (Plus I have a few pines that I won't burn.) Obviously I didn't want to spend a ton for a limited project. Thanks for sharing!
Great video sharing
Great video. So satisfying, from your successful clamp mod to watching that lumber being milled (not boring) I actually had anxiety thinking "I hope he shows it in action" lol. Nice work thanks for sharing.
Ha! I wouldn't do that to you! I hate those 'how to make this gizmo' videos where the action scenes are conveniently left out of the end reveal. It's too easy to pretend (on this end) that your creation works.
_Trust me, it works._
Yeah, right. And the check is in the mail.
Yeah, like it! Always nice to see tweeks 👌 . The vertical cutting method looks to be working great 👍
And yeah, with the prices as they are buying boards of hardwood would sure be tough. Thanks for another good one.
Thanks for stopping by! Hey, do you think this setup would benefit from a secondary oiler, or is that silly since I'm only taking shallow bites?
@@pocket83squared I probably wouldn't bother unless you see undue chain or bar wear. I don't use my aux oiler on anything under about 30" unless it's very very dry and hard, and I'm cutting full depth... It's another thing that adds complexity and setup / fiddle about time...
I like the design. I think I would use a 4x4 and put bolts directly through the board and metal bar. This would also give more support side to side.
Great videos. Can’t wait to try it. I’ve been looking into low cost methods of milling on my 20 acres while also using my current saw ms270. I didn’t catch if you were using a rip chain or not, I’ll have to rewatch that video again. Th ask for taking the time.
Could make a great looking fence 👍🏻
Smart idea. 👍
great jig love it excellent results!
would using shims help to stop the movement in the plank or some sort of prop to support the plank while it,s being cut
Well done sir. I like this
Excellent
this upgrade is brilliant! I milled everything I've got at the moment, but when next the issue arises I'll definitely remember this.
What I will say also is that while you may decide to use a machine for planing your pieces, I've found over the last couple years that a hand plane really isn't awful at all. It just doesn't take all the sort of time I used to think it did. There's a lot to be said for the difference in noise levels and cleanup as well.
Time with a hand-plane isn't lost during the use; the bulk of your time goes into honing its steel in preparation. There's an outrageous amount of effort required to keep planes in service.
Even at a small scale (like with the number of boards produced by a single 8' log), elbow-powered planes just don't pass cost-benefit scrutiny. We're talking ~10,000 in² of surface area planing. That's a lot of repair honing.
Not that I don't enjoy the quiet satisfaction of using one on the small project here and there, but my planes have no place in economy milling.
Thank you
Your Amazing 👏
Great video! I think I'm gonna build one of these, I've got a few black walnuts I gotta drop. I am excited to see what kind of possible modifications/improvements I could make!
For a Black Walnut alone, this is absolutely worth doing. Use chalk-lines to prep a 7¼" thick, pre-slabbed log as shown in the video, and from there, use only a brand-new chain to mill. You should be able to pull off a great result on your first try.
And please, ask questions. I'd love to hear that you tried this with success.
We did this with some black walnut last year thanks to your videos. Ours weren’t great at first, using a larger 20” bar we had a lot of deflection from the saw racking on the 2x4.
So boards would vary in thickness by 1/2” or more. It was still completely worth it
Dope.
I’d recommend using a 10’ aluminum C channel so it’s perfectly straight and making a jig to set the width so you don’t need the tape anymore.
Sounds great.
Can I get a price check on that 1½" x 3½" x 10' aluminum C-channel?
A standard 1" set-jig is a must though.
I wish i had fell trees around me so I could do this with my chainsaw
Make a stabilizing spacer clamp for the starting end with a spacer exactly the same as the saw kerf. Then you can cut fully through the starting end about 1 ft, stop and install the clamp, then get a better cut quality at the end cut. The board won't flap and at the end and won't fall away at the finish.
I don't understand that comment. It sounds as though you're telling me to put a seam back at the beginning rather than at the end. The seam was precisely the reason for the z-clamp in the first place.
Maybe I'm not visualizing quite what you mean by "stabilizing spacer clamp," but it's pretty close to impossible to guide a saw over 8' of travel using an 8' guide rail. Long story short, seams are a pretty big problem.
this content deserves to be on main channel
pocket83 just has a different theme. The content is not being separated by quality.
@@pocket83 i was thinking it was main channel is for all audiences and then sub channels are for minor audiences. then i was thinking this video series could have a broader audience. great video anyway :)
I like the reversed clamp. Why not leave the head off and have something on the 2x4 you put the bolt through? 2 pieces of angle iron would be stiffer than that strapping. Maybe the next one.
The head of the clamp has to extend out in order to compress and thus stabilize. If there were just a pin through the bar (of the clamp) that also goes into a pair of angle irons (on the 2x4), the rest of the clamp will try to rotate around the pin while it's being tightened. This causes the clamp to bind with lateral pressure, and so it becomes extremely prone to slip.
Trust me when I say that I prototyped a pile of ideas before settling on this simple one. As for the strap, it's not 1/4" steel, but it's at least stronger than it needs to be. Thanks.
if its the vibration causing the slight texturing maybe leaving two of those "triggers" one at each log might help stabilize it somewhat.
Sure. Another way is to have a helper who stuffs a shim into the cut at a certain point.
How about using 2 steel studs, will not waist or deform over time? Might even be cheaper than wood. Thank you for the videos and education
ditto, love the content and your approach. always an entertaining progression of this tool. i just have to build one now. just so happens i'm needing to mill some lumber for a project and i'm going to give this jig a try. thanks for sharing your ideas and upgrades for it. i'm guessing you're getting just a bit of chatter as you reach the end of the board; and that's the reason for the texture difference at the end of the cut?
In this video, I'm milling a board that's over 8' long using a 9' rail, so the pitch of the saw goes up at the end in order to cut the bottom of the last few inches. You can solve the problem entirely by using a 10' rail, if you want to be picky. Thanks and good luck.
Brilliant! BTW, did you consider removing the stop in the opposite end of the bar instead? The slider end of the clamp should reverse on the bar, and you would not have to remove the rivet and ream the hole. Just a thought...
Notice what I point out at 2:38. The Toe of the clamp needs to be upside-down so that it can plant itself and stabilize. Otherwise, the clamp will just rock over to the side.
My first experiment was even simpler, because it involved using only a slip-pin through the bar. That didn't work at all.
@@pocket83squared Got it!
Removing headed pins or rivets is better accomplished by drilling first. Use a drill bit slightly larger than the pin shank center punch it if you don't think you can eyeball it then drill slowly until the head separates, punch it out like he did and you're done. Supper easy, once you get the hang of it.
13:30 6" is nothing to complain about, It is above average!
That is just awesome! I was seriously impressed when you released the first video in this series and have continued to be with each subsequent step you've made. Not sure if you mentioned it in the videos but what's the largest diameter log you would be happy to mill using this?
Doesn't matter, because I first remove the top and bottom bark-slabs from the log in order to prepare a 7½" blank for milling. If those slabs are big enough, they can be further milled (from their flat face) down into smaller stock.
Although, the slabs from this one might get turned into part of an ATV bridge.
@@pocket83squared Of course they can. I forgot to use the first thing I ever learned from you - think things through!😄
Thanks Pocket, awesome stuff! I really enjoy all your videos, especially the milling ones and will be trying this out. 2 years ago I bought an MS 170 based on your comments about it and absolutely love it. What other Stihls do you have? I'm looking at a bigger saw to have for bigger tasks when necessary. Thanks again!
There's an MS250 here that I use for larger rounds, but it goes mostly unused. The reason I started going smaller is because of my history with Dad's old Farm Bosses, which are simply terrible to lug around. I'm not the best person to ask for advice on this point; there are probably better saws out there than the 250 for what you want, but I don't really know what they are. I'm just glad to hear that you had a good experience with one of my recommendations. It's for that reason I don't want to make a recommendation, unless I'm confident it's a product worth your money.
@@pocket83squared Thank you!
Nice idea! Could you use a Matchfit clamp that uses a dovetail slot?
If you're asking me why I didn't: that "slot" would be more of a notch, because such a clamp would have to be inserted through the board's side. Thus, it would severely weaken the guide board. As simple as possible was the idea here.
Note that your idea would probably work well for the front clamp.
What if you cut all the way through at the end and then do the final cut in the center? That will reduce the amount of vibration.
Pocket, thank you for another great video. I am wondering and would like to see your method being applied to the end of the cant. How is the guide beam secured after the cant is less than the width of the 2 X 4? Thanks again.
That's part of the next video in this series. Sorry for the wait!
Superb!! I'm planning to do this with 2,5" thick x 10" high x 5m (16ft) this autumn... I was surprised at your fuel consumption until you said cherry haha... Mine will be ash, maple and willow, so hopefully less fuel...
Willow would be a cool one! Never worked with that before. Maple is tough. Try to mill it while it's still wet. Fuel is really a non-cost. A gallon will fill up an empty MS170 over 15 times. The bulk of the cost here is in a new chain (and of course, labor). Good luck ;)
@@pocket83squared Thanks! I should be good on chains. I stocked up on them a long time ago when I was still doing yard work moonlighting. I have 8 of them at the ready, 5 more that still need fresh sharpening....
The problems I've had with willow, is the long grain making for terribly long shavings when not cutting perpendicular to the grain, clogging up the saw. But I heard you loud and clear on the multiple passes. Hopefully a lower load will make the chain cut those long bits up more... I've done a lot of work with willow, but I haven't tried making actual boards and beams yet. The most awesome thing about my willow here is that if you leave on about 2 hand palms worth of living cambium, it will shoot branches and roots. So I'm going to try and have my vertical beams sprout their own foundation after placing them... (to do so, I will only square up 2 sides instead of 4 and leave the part that needs to be in the ground entirely round). I've got various sizes of willow to process, from 1ft diameter to 4-5ft giants that have to go because of planned landscaping of the creek by the provincial landscape maintenance. Not sure how much usable wood I'll get out of those trunks, because they are likely hollow in the center. I've already had to fell some of them because they cracked open after a storm (probably lightning strike on one, the other one was just wind damage) and I remember that certain portions were just sponge while other sections were solid xylem. I'm expecting a lot of warping and twisting from the boards and beams though. It's all just experimental. If it all works out, I'll have a structure that is partially still alive, so I'm allowing for a lot of flex and twist and I'm planning to have to fix, adjust or otherwise adapt the structure every so often just from the living nature of it. The premise of my experiment is to find out if we can create a more organic way of sheltered space without limiting ourselves to rigid rules like square and plomb, or being completely dry... I won't mind if I have a leak here and there. I'll just have to design my electrical installation accordingly =) It'll be a multi year project (since growth of roots is not very much in my hands) so don't expect a video soon hahaha.
@@pocket83squared maple is tough indeed, although I think the variety we have here in central western Europe is much lighter than the varieties in the northern half of North America...
Thxs for sharing your experience !
What kind of Chain do you use ? 10° ?
30°. Check the first video (and description) for details on it.
Great modification. How often do you find you need to change chains and/ or sharpen the chain while doing these cuts?
Typically I'll mill two 8' logs starting with a brand-new chain. This way, there's there's no fancy sharpening required. Precision sharpening isn't really cost-effective with a little MS170; a chain is only around $25, so after I've milled two logs, the chain gets swapped onto my general-purpose saw. From there I just hand-sharpen it using a file. This method keeps my milling quality at top-tier without stress and at low-cost.
Note that hand-sharpened chains work great for crosscutting, but with a single-attachment milling jig like this one, the error introduced ends up costing quality. If you aren't using a machine-sharpened chain, you'll see the lack of precision in a long rip cut. Remember that each board takes two rip cuts to make it; as such, the +/- of your board thickness gets doubled.
The Australian Bureau of Meteorology's daily temperature forecasts are, I've estimated, to be about 80 to 85% over exaggerated. That is our high and low maximums can be off by anything between 1 degree centigrade to 5 degrees, sometimes even more. I've take screenshots at random, and I mean random which include rare occasions when they've actually got it right or perhaps (at most from memory) 2 degrees under! (gasps)
Wonder if you put your trigger in the middle, wonder if it would change the location of that rub.
Every board will release different internal tensions, so it's somewhat unpredictable. In general, the side-rub isn't that bad. That said, if you're trying to eliminate it entirely, you can have a helper who drops the occasional shim into the cut.
I don't recall if you covered it in another video, but what do you do when the log is too thin to chainsaw any longer? Just mill it on the table saw?
Nope. You can use the mill right down to the end! But it takes some cleverness, so stay tuned.
What is another name for a nut knob. I looked it up but couldn't really find a specific item. I love this jig for it's simplicity!
Thumb-screw, wingnut, or thumb-nut are the closest things I've found. So far as I know, I'm the originator of the little idea, pending some older mention of it. Honestly, though-I find it hard to believe that nobody else has come up with it. Who knows? Maybe there still are new things under the sun!
Genuine question: Why not drill out the top of the rivet? Does it make a particular type of damage likely?
That rivet had a thick collar on it near the top, so I don't think it would've pushed through in the other direction. Machine-pressed rivets can be tough to get out.
Good comedy can be hard to find. Sometimes it is just embedded in a wall of text.
I wish I could do that :( ... being a paraplegic, probably not the safest thing to attempt.
You know your own limits. What I will say is that it's easier than it looks, since I'm using a very small chainsaw. Of course, it's also easier with help (no matter how many operational legs you have). Most of this process is all prep-work. There are lots of ways in which you could participate in this process. I'd put you to work.
Look up Advoko Makes, he recently used a similar design, but with a few tricks to make it essentially self propelled. Between the two of you, I’m pretty near to doing this myself!
How were the first 3 cuts made? Ie top and bottom before you start making planks.
Slabbing/prep for milling:
For removing the first two slabs, I also use an MS170, but without a jig. First note that I use a different saw for slabbing because the saw in the jig is dedicated to only milling. This way, I'm always using a new chain to mill, and I use the less perfect chains for slabbing and other operations. Cutting through Bark wears your chain faster, so if possible, use a different saw/chain than the one you're about to mill with.
Roll the log so that the slab you want to remove faces up. On the ends of the log, use a pencil and a straight-edge to mark where the cut will be. Make the cut level with the ground with respect to the ends. Stand back from the end of the log to visualize the cut better. Next, Use a chalk line to connect the two end marks together. Strike/pluck your chalk line along the plane of the cut for the best straightness. If you can't get a clean line, feel free to knock off any of the log's high spots with a chainsaw.
Now go around with the chainsaw scoring all of the marks, all the way around. Move around the log, plunging in deeper and deeper with each pass. Make shallow cuts and go around the circle; doing so reduces average error, resulting in a straighter overall cut. Use the end cuts as references for keeping straight/level. After you break through on one end and work your way towards the middle, shim the ends to keep the slab supported and the chainsaw from binding. Rinse, repeat.
With this setup, my target thickness is 7½". Slabs that are thick enough can be further milled down later to get smaller stock.
Oh I will be slabbing cherry also! What chain type do us prefer? Ripping, chisel, std crosscut?,
This mill jig was designed to be used with a standard 30° chain. Cherry's usually a pretty easy mill. Good luck!
The cut quality on the log side will improve once you sharpen your chain again. I'm getting fuzzy fibers on the left side of my cut because the teeth are worn/out of spec.
Have you switched over to a rip chain or original cross cut chain?
There was nothing wrong with the cut quality on the log side. The point I was making there was that the loose board is free to vibrate and lightly kiss the chainsaw teeth, resulting in a slightly worse texture. It's a fact of the process.
Note that I now use only new chains for milling. No sharpening. One new chain will mill around two 8' logs. After that, the chain goes into another chainsaw for general use. The chain is a $25 milling cost that easily pays for itself with the lumber produced by two logs. With an MS170, precision sharpening systems are a wasteful expenditure of time & money, and freehand sharpening is substandard for milling.
No, I don't use ripping chains, because (as stated above) the used chain immediately goes into service after milling. A dulled rip chain would be useless unless I dump time, effort, and money into chasing the dream that I could ever sharpen a $25 chain for less than $25 worth of trouble. This system is all about strict economy-not marketing.
The second reason that I don't use a rip chain is that they don't allow for lateral correction. The jig was designed with a 30° scoop in mind.
@@pocket83squared thank you for your insights and clarification.
@@benjaminbrewer2154 Of course. What saw are you using? Are you using the same jig? Are you going to make this clamp?
@@pocket83squared First thing I will say. There is NOTHING wrong with your system pocket83². (Them are some SWEET! cuts) I find this conversation very interesting.
As the saying goes, "You don't know what you don't know."
@@ironwoodworkman4917 Sure, it seems sensible to to reduce the chain in thickness as much as possible, since the smaller the kerf is, the less power will be required of the saw in order to make the same cut. That said, it's tough to experiment since doing so is costly. I've not tried a smaller pitch chain. For the sake of these videos, I try to keep my equipment as general-audience as possible. The idea here is a working homeowner's mill while using absolutely off-the-shelf stuff.
Tell me, what are your thoughts on the MS170? Do you use one for anything?
Has your 2x4 warped over time? I've found that unless I get kiln dried wood it tends to warp a bit. I'm tempted to make this, but am thinking a piece of metal for the fence might work better long term. Thoughts pocket?
Start with a board that has acclimated to where you'll store it. Once it's straight and stable, polyurethane it. After a light sanding, it'll be smooth as silk, and it'll stay nice over time. Store away from sun and moisture.
@@pocket83squared that's a great idea, thank you!
if only the next cut was parallel to the previous
? How is it not?
How do you finish the whole log? Doesn’t it get too skinny for your saw guide
You can mill the whole way down. A future video will address this.
How do you deal with warped wood?
Using this construction, I assume the top has to be level.
The top of the log isn't all that flat, and it doesn't matter much if the guide board is cupped or curled, just so long as it sights straight along the axis of the cut. Remember, these boards are still going to be jointed/edged later. The jig is designed to produce boards that have a consistent thickness, nothing more; in that context, they're 'straight.'
How I get the two flat spots on the log (top & bottom) in the first place is relatively low-tech: I simply strike two chalk-lines for each slab that will get cut away, score these marks all the way around the log, and then slowly plunge in, working around in a circle and using the end-grain cuts as a reference. Doesn't have to be perfect at all. Even a +/-½" tolerance (which is downright crude for a freehand slab) will still result in some totally usable material. After that, it's all jig work, which is easy.
Have you ever considered making this out of metal to increase then self life and accuracy? Not trying to critique you or anything I love this idea. I just think if you used a c-channel steel and a little plate steel and some proper small bearings it would allow for some longer life span of this amazing idea .
Thanks. There's no point in making a metal jig, since I've been milling with this setup every year since and found the wear to be minimal. Besides, every single part is easily replaceable. There _are_ consumer versions if you're interested, but from what I've seen of them, they're pricey, heavier to move, and their dimensions are all wrong.
It's also frequently recommended to me that I use a steel stud or a C-channel as a rail, for its straightness and strength and so on. This is another spot where a wooden setup is already deceptively adequate; as long as the 2x4 has been finished with polyurethane, it'll stay nice and straight, and the jig will glide like a kite.
In this process, there is lots of moving stuff around. It's a key point to remember. Lots of bend-over-and-get: setup, tear-down, and then carry back. Metal gives the appearance of permanence, but really it's just heavy, sharp, and expensive enough that I'll never want to change it once it's been made. Just my two cents.
Be sure to watch this fourth vid in the series. Although a kludge, the system has really started to work well:
th-cam.com/video/alClPHQMeMk/w-d-xo.html
@pocket83squared I was curious of you have ever considered this and thank you your explanation. I my self hope you are OK with me making one of these from steel and using it . I won't sell or make it a product for sale , only for personal use . But I believe I asking things that are functional and long lasting. This is an amazing idea and am greatly appreciated of you putting it out there for others to consider when making a chain saw mill .
@@jasonstevenson8569 Of course! Best of luck with your version.
Thank you so much sir . I might make a video and will 100% credit you and your channel with the credit .
what u gonna do with the boards and did u cut them in different sizes?
They get rough cut to 1" and 1.5" thickness. Every here and there, I'll also throw in a thick 2" board.
After that, they're stacked to dry for a year, and then they can be used to make stuff. I usually plane the boards I need to use as I go; this way the surfaces are kept like new during storage until they get used.
Hello that’s nice.
What if u leave little piece (trigger)in middle. Maybe ur end will be better because little more secure. Idk. Thinking how I try it. It’s 530 n morning watching. I’m gonna turn one my clamps around. Yes sir. I’m ole poor hillbilly. Love video’s like these. Also I’m welder fabricator by trade. Look into a 3” c channel beam for my try later on. Maybe 18’ one. Make nice post 6”x6” or 8”x8”. There pretty expensive at store. Shoot 4”x4” is when ur poor like me. Lol. About most country now. Any great video. I’ll be checking um out now that found the channel. Stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
With the price of lumber, if you mill enough, you might not be poor for long! You'll still be a hillbilly, though; a big pile of lumber in the yard sure won't change that! Thanks, and good luck with it ;)
Instead of using clamps use double-sided tape and a longer guide board.
Hi. What kind of chain do you use? Rip cut or regular cross cut chain?
30° (cross-cut). More details are in the first video, at around 2 minutes in.
Despite all the viewer demands, this jig was not designed for use with a low-angle/rip-cut chain. A 30° chain will better resist lateral stresses (drift) during its cut. This jig has only one fixed point of attachment; low-angle chains are better suited to those mills that have multiple attachment points that keep 'em running true.
The difference is like comparing a diving-board to a tightrope. Both can be walked out on, but one of them is designed to be held straight from two ends.
Keep the saw low-away from vertical-and watch those shavings fly: most of them are +2" long scoops. Not much need for an 'improved' tooth angle.
@@pocket83squared Thank you for explaining.
Nice setup!
Although rather simple question given the topic, I’d love to see your chain sharpening technique/setup …. I suspect something you do a lot given you’re milling.
There's no fancy sharpening at all. All the milling gets done using a new chain. Precision sharpening isn't really cost-effective with a little MS170; a chain is only around $25, so after I've milled two logs, the chain goes onto my general-purpose saw. From there I just hand-sharpen it using a file. This method keeps my milling quality at top-tier without stress and at low-cost.
@@pocket83squared Thanks - makes sense. I have a 250 and chains up here in Canada are $40ish a pop - making it more cost effective to sharpen. Since I’m cheap a do a lot of sharpening :)
@@RichardT2112 $40ish sounds right for a 250 chain here. I also have an MS250, and I no longer use it to mill, since the chains are too expensive, and sharpening them is exhaustive. Also, the 250's kerf is wider and the saw is louder & heavier and it uses more fuel. Surprisingly, it also takes longer milling because of the wider kerf.
hi, have you fixed the deck :) just watched your video from 3 years ago and was wondering what solution did you come up with.
Yes, I did. Do you actually have the problem, and are you trying to fix it?
@@pocket83squared thank you for the answer, I was just really curious, trying to learn a bit about carpentry and you seemed like a great teacher so wanted to see a bit more for future reference:)
@@riba2233 Nice of you. It's tough to explain here, but eventually I'll post the solution video. The comments were disabled on that video because of how misunderstood it was.
@@pocket83squared wow that sounds awesome, can't wait! I will subscribe right away :) I really don't get why it was misunderstood, it all seemed very clear to me but I guess one shouldn't expect much from average yt commenters :|
Current circumstances. Not the political climate so much. But the fact that Lumber has gone through the roof at Lowe's and Home Depot. Have turned my mind toward various bracing strategies for skill saws and chainsaws.
The bright side is. I've always wanted to work with real Dimensioned Lumber. 2x4s that are actually two by fours. The house I grew up in from 1966 onward. My dad showed me a dirty little secret one day he showed me a piece of 2x4 we had taken from the house. Built in 1925. And a piece of modern 2x4. The house piece was actually 2 in by 4 in. The modern Lumber was a half inch short on each side. The explanation for this is it modern Lumber is rough cut to dimension and then sent to a planer. Where it loses a half inch.
Can you not cut a slot into the trolley to accommodate the clamp handle
The clamp's head is bigger than 1½".
Also note that the higher up the clamp goes, the less log will fit underneath it.
@@pocket83squared ah ok and sled internals arent much wider than 1 1\2" ok well done on the z clamp to get around the problem
just need to make a longerr plank now lol
also can you add a thin sheet to guide you as to where the blade will cut so it makes line ups easier on the logs
Why not just pull the roll pin and turn the sliding clamp portion?
Think about it a little harder.
Can you tell me about your epoxy syringe?
Just an off-the-shelf 5-min epoxy product. Mine are usually 25 ml size Loctite disposables, but the syringe could always be refilled if they're hard to find where you live.
Note that a stand is a must with an epoxy syringe, so that air bubbles gravitate out. Keeping it vertical also reduces leaking caused by air temp changes.
@@pocket83squared thank you for that tip. I have tried a number of epoxy syringes but only found one decent brand which is rarely available at the supermarket it's at so I have to buy a bunch when it's on the shelf. I was wondering if you refilled yours but if it's readily available there's less reason to. I may try refilling mine
Nine-foot toobafor? Where'd you buy that?
Don't be a wise-ass. My garage ceiling can only handle a 9'2" board leaning in the corner. It was cut from a 10. Although, there _are_ 104⅝" pre-cuts out there for framing 9' ceilings. Good luck finding a straight one, though ;)
@@pocket83squared I was just messin' with you. Keep up the good work.
Why 1" only?
1" rough cut is just the standard size. It planes nicely down to ⅞" or ¾". This time, I also milled two 1½" boards, and the remainder was something like 2¼", but I still have to plane some bark off of it.
:)
It’s a joy to watch you work
@@JThriftybee It speaks!
@@pocket83squared sometimes, am a woman of few words
Please keep your pup away from saw blade exit on underneath log. Maybe short lease stop!m
My dog is a Border Collie mutt; she's smart enough to run the mill. She knows better than to get anywhere near a running chainsaw.
Modern day don't use this nowadays
What?
@@pocket83squared in jungle we just bring chainsaw and food still it's heavy and complicated
@@reyhogo9399 In the jungle, you probably don't need number 1 grade lumber, either. This setup is for making perfectly straight boards. We're pretty far from the jungle here. Unless you count Murrysville: more snakes there than any other terrestrial biome.
tapcons
name-brand
I dropped a masaive log in my undies
It's not my policy to remove comments by virtue of their stupidity. Instead, they're left here to display their originator's total lack of complex self-awareness. See, the rest of us learn by your example; you are something to be both avoided and pitied, whether you realize this or not.
Here's a sympathy heart for you. Sorry that high school has ended.
@@pocket83squared I appreciate it! 🍻