Thanks for the informative video. I just bought an older coach on a Gillig chassis. I want to check the brakes and drums but never worked with Budd wheels. Now I know enough to get in trouble!
I bought a bus to convert into a RV last year. I have a leaky axle so am removing the wheels on the rear to get to it. First I've worked on a medium duty truck and first time working with budds. Thanks for sharing your info! I was gonna take it to a diesel mechanic but no one around here (east TN) wants to work on school buses... I'm handy with wrenches/tools so I guess I'll knock it out.
You need the "heavy duty" pork chops. They're "D" shaped. They don't bounce and twist all over the place like them flimsy 2-sided ones or the "Q" shaped ones. Ken-Tool makes the heavy duty in 1½ and 41mm
On the Budd, or stud pilot wheel. The inner nut is called a cap nut. When removing the 1st lug nut, you must pay attention that it doesn't jam up and start removing the inner cap nut. This can damage the outer wheel and push the stud into the break drum. You must move on to the next nut and go from there sometimes they all sticks and you have to go from one to the other until they are fully removed. But they will all be stuck together to the outer wheel. Ken tool makes a better pork chop. It holds on to the wheel without chatter and damage to the wheel. I use kill frost air to oil and I use that oil as lube on nuts. Besides looking for cracks these wheels can be worn so far that the nuts push right through the wheel and must be inspected for that condition. When installing the inner cap not on aluminum's put your 1" gun to a low setting. Or use a 3/4 gun for installation. Don't send it home because you're gonna torque it by hand. 500 ft lbs. The reason for this the inner stud does not fully extend To the end of the cap nut. It will twist and break off on you. On the hub pilot set up. The hub has pilot pads to center the wheel. These pads if you intend on adding aluminum wheels must extend out Far enough to add the wheels. And you must have 3 threads out past the nut. Or you will have to change the studs. Torque settings are written on the collar or the face of the nuts. 450 to 500 ft lbs
On metric style budd. 6 Lug nuts on the heno Isuzu evco. The outer's always stick to the inner cap nut. You will appreciate the Ken tool pork chop. You have to stop and move to the next until they are fully removed. The torque spec on these is 380 ft lbs
I misplaced my inner lug nut tool so I hammered my 1/1/4 socket and took it off that way it took like 5 minutes of hammering to get my socket back but it worked
I got a question. I had trouble mounting 16 inch 16 ply tires I had to take to a tire shop. I tried every which way dry,wet.is there any other way to mount it that I didn't try? thanks been watching your vids for a long time.ive learned a lot thanks bro.
ABLE LOBO I usually lay the tire and then the wheel on top of the tire to mount it. I put my knee on the center of the wheel just to put pressure on where while I mount to tire
It is really hard to see what you are doing and how it's done. Your video is the only one that deals with the Square inner nut and hex outer nut that is on the 1971 Dodge Superior RV rear dually 5 bolt rims. I cant figure out how to get the rims off so I can change a flat
What’s up bro great videos thanks for posting these up for all these years I know I’ve learned a lot by watching them. Hey for someone who is going to be starting to work on big rig trucks and trailers what assortment of valve stems, buds nuts and studs would you recommend having in a service truck? Thanks again keep up the good work
Thanks for the informative video. We are CHIEF FORGE, a Taiwan manufacturer of wheel hub bolts and nuts for heavy-duty trucks. May I share your video on our business page?
I have that gearwrench that holds the inner Square piloted stud and then turns the nut off. for the life of me I can't remember what that wrench or tool is called does anybody have an idea
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Great information, thanks for the very thorough explanation of the various tools and techniques used to change Budd vs hub-piloted wheels.
Trying to get the duals off my box truck, this video helped a bunch. Thanks.
Thanks for the informative video. I just bought an older coach on a Gillig chassis. I want to check the brakes and drums but never worked with Budd wheels. Now I know enough to get in trouble!
Great information. Helping to keep people safe in their jobs.
Thank you for sharing these tips, restoring 1948 ford f5, wheels coming off hard .
Sharing the type of knowledge you only gain with experience. Thanks for posting!
I bought a bus to convert into a RV last year. I have a leaky axle so am removing the wheels on the rear to get to it. First I've worked on a medium duty truck and first time working with budds. Thanks for sharing your info! I was gonna take it to a diesel mechanic but no one around here (east TN) wants to work on school buses... I'm handy with wrenches/tools so I guess I'll knock it out.
You need the "heavy duty" pork chops. They're "D" shaped. They don't bounce and twist all over the place like them flimsy 2-sided ones or the "Q" shaped ones. Ken-Tool makes the heavy duty in 1½ and 41mm
Another great video.Thanks
Good ol stud pilot...get out the pork chop n get er dun...sucks when these are old and the cones rust to the nuts lol
Doing mine for first time. You answered all the questions!! Ty
On the Budd, or stud pilot wheel. The inner nut is called a cap nut. When removing the 1st lug nut, you must pay attention that it doesn't jam up and start removing the inner cap nut. This can damage the outer wheel and push the stud into the break drum. You must move on to the next nut and go from there sometimes they all sticks and you have to go from one to the other until they are fully removed. But they will all be stuck together to the outer wheel. Ken tool makes a better pork chop. It holds on to the wheel without chatter and damage to the wheel. I use kill frost air to oil and I use that oil as lube on nuts. Besides looking for cracks these wheels can be worn so far that the nuts push right through the wheel and must be inspected for that condition. When installing the inner cap not on aluminum's put your 1" gun to a low setting. Or use a 3/4 gun for installation. Don't send it home because you're gonna torque it by hand. 500 ft lbs. The reason for this the inner stud does not fully extend To the end of the cap nut. It will twist and break off on you. On the hub pilot set up. The hub has pilot pads to center the wheel. These pads if you intend on adding aluminum wheels must extend out Far enough to add the wheels. And you must have 3 threads out past the nut. Or you will have to change the studs. Torque settings are written on the collar or the face of the nuts. 450 to 500 ft lbs
On metric style budd. 6 Lug nuts on the heno Isuzu evco. The outer's always stick to the inner cap nut. You will appreciate the Ken tool pork chop. You have to stop and move to the next until they are fully removed. The torque spec on these is 380 ft lbs
I misplaced my inner lug nut tool so I hammered my 1/1/4 socket and took it off that way it took like 5 minutes of hammering to get my socket back but it worked
Lol
Appreciate it the video sir!
10 hole Budd wheel inch and a half outside lug nut 13/16 square inner nut and I was in the tire industry for 41 years
Any advice you can give to a new tire tech?
🚛..🛠 good video.😎😎
Thanks!!!
I got a question. I had trouble mounting 16 inch 16 ply tires I had to take to a tire shop. I tried every which way dry,wet.is there any other way to mount it that I didn't try? thanks been watching your vids for a long time.ive learned a lot thanks bro.
ABLE LOBO were you mounting the correct side with the drop center?
@@marcoasanchez530the side wall is stupid thick and I just couldn't mount it. I'm just trying to see if theres another/easy way to do it.
ABLE LOBO I usually lay the tire and then the wheel on top of the tire to mount it. I put my knee on the center of the wheel just to put pressure on where while I mount to tire
@@marcoasanchez530my bad, mabey I didn't describe it right, it's a dually wheel.
ABLE LOBO dully wheel on a 16in rim 9/10 time u mount front the top side (cone side)
Why are you not supposed to use anti-seize on these types of lugs?
It is really hard to see what you are doing and how it's done. Your video is the only one that deals with the Square inner nut and hex outer nut that is on the 1971 Dodge Superior RV rear dually 5 bolt rims. I cant figure out how to get the rims off so I can change a flat
What’s up bro great videos thanks for posting these up for all these years I know I’ve learned a lot by watching them. Hey for someone who is going to be starting to work on big rig trucks and trailers what assortment of valve stems, buds nuts and studs would you recommend having in a service truck? Thanks again keep up the good work
Thanks for the informative video. We are CHIEF FORGE, a Taiwan manufacturer of wheel hub bolts and nuts for heavy-duty trucks. May I share your video on our business page?
You don’t have the 2-1 socket? Has both for inner and outer? That’s what we use way easier less time
I have used it in the past just never thought about getting one till you just mentioned it lol. Thanks
TripleATireService that’s what I use I like that better. Only time I use the other ones is when nuts are stuck like you were showing
Gotta be careful with that 2-in-1 socket, some cap nuts are too long and will engage the square when you're trying to remove the outer nut.
I have one with gear on the tool. Does anybody remember what the tool is called?
I can't see anything, I have the "bud wheel" square stud righty loosy
Good video, what is your usual price on a service call
I have that gearwrench that holds the inner Square piloted stud and then turns the nut off.
for the life of me I can't remember what that wrench or tool is called does anybody have an idea
👍🇧🇷🇧🇷
Eso es tongo así se llama aca