It's amazing the paint remains in place. I can get my repairs to the point of that ripple stage then I get lost. I'm just doing work on my own cars so it's no big deal but I need more practice. Thanks again for showing the process.
I been following Tom for a good while, I'd never attempt a repair like that as a beginner lol, I'm also practicing on my own stuff and small little dents, I can get to that 90% but always get stuck in the last 10%.
@@edwinmedina4338 Thank you. At the risk of sounding like I am pushing my training on you, its that last 10-20% that everyone struggles with, that's where some extra guidance can just shift you over the edge to achieve a 100% finish. Keep pushing my friend!
Thank you! It does get tricky towards the end that's when the fine details (and a whole lot of paitence,😅) matter most. When you get to that stage, its usually about your board position, to be able to read what needs doing next, so either moving it back 1-2 foot or tilting or both can make a huge difference!
I'm really new to this. Just bought my first simple amazon glue pulling/knocking down kit and tried some bits on my van (a lot to work on there :D). One thing I'm not sure I understand from the video(s) - is it really that you can repair such a dent so that here is essentially no texture left on the repair area mostly from knockdown punching (as in small marks that show where you've punched)? Meaning, the "smoothness" of the surface is as it was before (essentially, perfectly smooth) or there will always be some texture left just the basic geometry will be back to the shape but anyone who knows a bit about PDR would be able to tell that repair was done there? Or, in other words - is the result as "straight" and perfectly flat as it would come out after repainting the car (filler/putty work, etc.)? Great vids - keep on the work!
Thank you and that's a good question. It is definitely possible to repair some dent damage 100% to restore it back to its original condition before the impact, and this can be perfect with no marks or texture visible even to another PDR tech, however this may not be possible with every dent depending on the extent of the damage. 100% repair is usually the goal but sometimes there may still be very slight texture visible to a trained eye but its worth noting that nearly every paint/filler repair is visible to a trained eye more so than PDR
I presume then the question is - is it visible to an untrained eye? Meaning, when you got the the customer how do you set the expectations for what the outcome might be, if indeed you're not confident you can return it to 100% OEM state, that is, state where even someone with a good eye essentially cannot tell the difference?
Nice job Tom what glue did you use they hold well , i'm using snow white glue sticks they are very strong and remove easily , pulled a Porsche rear wheel arch it was pushed in 1/2 inch i used 250kg winch post and glue 3" glue tab i was shocked glue held , i got it out enough to fill and paint as custom has already polish through the paint so could not see any point getting every bit of the dent out
Love it John, pleased to hear you are still taking on some dent work! I used the High Strength Clear glue from BLE Tools in Bristol, its great for most repairs I take on. 👍
Amazing! Great job
Thanks Garry 👍
It's amazing the paint remains in place. I can get my repairs to the point of that ripple stage then I get lost. I'm just doing work on my own cars so it's no big deal but I need more practice. Thanks again for showing the process.
I been following Tom for a good while, I'd never attempt a repair like that as a beginner lol, I'm also practicing on my own stuff and small little dents, I can get to that 90% but always get stuck in the last 10%.
@@edwinmedina4338 Thank you. At the risk of sounding like I am pushing my training on you, its that last 10-20% that everyone struggles with, that's where some extra guidance can just shift you over the edge to achieve a 100% finish. Keep pushing my friend!
Thank you! It does get tricky towards the end that's when the fine details (and a whole lot of paitence,😅) matter most. When you get to that stage, its usually about your board position, to be able to read what needs doing next, so either moving it back 1-2 foot or tilting or both can make a huge difference!
@@LearnPDROnline Thank you!
I'm really new to this. Just bought my first simple amazon glue pulling/knocking down kit and tried some bits on my van (a lot to work on there :D).
One thing I'm not sure I understand from the video(s) - is it really that you can repair such a dent so that here is essentially no texture left on the repair area mostly from knockdown punching (as in small marks that show where you've punched)? Meaning, the "smoothness" of the surface is as it was before (essentially, perfectly smooth) or there will always be some texture left just the basic geometry will be back to the shape but anyone who knows a bit about PDR would be able to tell that repair was done there? Or, in other words - is the result as "straight" and perfectly flat as it would come out after repainting the car (filler/putty work, etc.)?
Great vids - keep on the work!
Thank you and that's a good question. It is definitely possible to repair some dent damage 100% to restore it back to its original condition before the impact, and this can be perfect with no marks or texture visible even to another PDR tech, however this may not be possible with every dent depending on the extent of the damage. 100% repair is usually the goal but sometimes there may still be very slight texture visible to a trained eye but its worth noting that nearly every paint/filler repair is visible to a trained eye more so than PDR
I presume then the question is - is it visible to an untrained eye? Meaning, when you got the the customer how do you set the expectations for what the outcome might be, if indeed you're not confident you can return it to 100% OEM state, that is, state where even someone with a good eye essentially cannot tell the difference?
Hey thanks again my brother im subscribed
Thank you Bill, glad you enjoy my channel and thanks for subscribing!
Saludos from miami fl can't wait to start buying my tools i always love this trade.
If you are in Florida keep an eye out on the Mobile Tech Exhibition they have every year, loads of tools and dent guys to chat to there www.mte.live/
Sensacional 👏💯⚒️
Thanks Samuel 👍
Good job !
Thank you 👍
Awesome job. ❤
Thank you 🙏
Great job, thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching! 👍
Nice job Tom what glue did you use they hold well , i'm using snow white glue sticks they are very strong and remove easily , pulled a Porsche rear wheel arch it was pushed in 1/2 inch i used 250kg winch post and glue 3" glue tab i was shocked glue held , i got it out enough to fill and paint as custom has already polish through the paint so could not see any point getting every bit of the dent out
Love it John, pleased to hear you are still taking on some dent work! I used the High Strength Clear glue from BLE Tools in Bristol, its great for most repairs I take on. 👍
How long did this take you?
The actual repair time was probably around 2-3 hours for both dents, it always take longer though when I do videos