I appreciate your sharing these with us. Your craftsmanship is amazing and hopefully, you have someone who is learning from you to help take care of future pianos.
Also for your sanding @ around 13:00, you could try some pneumatic tools that are used in auto body work. I.e. DA sanders and an inline air sander. Harbor freight sells all three for reasonable prices. You say that you wear through sand paper quickly. That's because you're using an electric, handheld palm sander, which is too light duty for what you're doing. From working in an automotive body shop and doing lots of body work myself in the past, I can tell you that the automotive self-adhevsive sand papers are the way to go. They make sticky back and velcro-backed sandpapers are way better than any of the sand papers I see you using and you can cut them to size to fit your dremel sander. Any auto body supply store will have them in bulk. Also, there are bondo files you can use to shave down bondo or epoxy without needing a sandpaper at all. These cheese grate style of files are cheap, and great for saving sandpaper work and take off the majority of buildup of bondo and/or fiberglass/resin buildup. Again, you can get these in various shapes at your local automotive body supply or online.
@@JacobEmch91 I saw you were actually using some pneumatic sanders later in the video for your finishing work. I posted my original comment before completely watching the video through. Anyway, great video and looking forward to seeing future repairs!
My piano sure could use this work. It's a 1935 Krakauer Bros. (Brooklyn, NY) Louis XVI Art Grand. It's all original with ivory keys and was tuned last in 1967. Don't know if this piano is worth restoring. It's price new was $650 at a furniture store in Los Angeles (purchased by my grandfather in 1935).
Thank you very much for this video. It is very detailed and worth learning from!!! I have a question, what liquid did you add at 10:36 seconds? What is its purpose? Thank you. Wishing you always good luck!!!!!💓
Thank you for the kind words. The solution is profelt. Which is used to size the felt to the brass caul. Unfortunately, the original producer stopped making it about a year ago. I think someone in Australia is starting to sell a similar product but I can’t think of what they named it at the moment.
Beautiful work guy. I really enjoyed your style of presentation. I use Sailkote by McLube on all key posts. Also great for any friction point. Keep it up. A sub from me
This is great that you're documenting the whole process! Was the restaurant giving away the piano for free? Hopefully! Because you really put a lot of time/work into this. The only thing I wish you had some footage of was moving the piano from its original site (even if just some B-roll). Great channel, and new subscriber!
Well done, Jacob! My 55 year old G5 has Pan Head Slotted Screws not flat head and they are not painted. Are they nickel plated but just oxidized? Can you roughly tell the age of a Yamaha piano by the type of screws used? The newer ones have Phillips Head screws. Also did you need to touch up the frame? What color/product would you use to match. Thank You.
Thank you, John. Many times, the screws that go into the pinblock are painted, and the perimeter screws aren’t. They might be nickel plated in your piano, not sure. Regarding matching the color on the cast iron plate, Yamahas are tough to match. I’ve got some bronzing powder to mix in lacquer for steinways, but it is too “gold” for Yamahas. Best of luck.
Hey man, i have a piano shop in the UK and I do a few poly repairs myself mainly scratches. I’m intrigued to know what product you’re using for the dents that you pour on? Excellent stuff!
Ha - if I hear one more salesman say “it just takes a really good technician”… I’m thinking, “it takes a really good tech to deaden the tone enough so you can’t hear the deficiencies of the piano.” 😂
@@JacobEmch91 Thank you so much for the reply! What RPM would you recommend for buffing black lacquer I am looking for the adapter to put my buffing wheel to my polisher. Could you recommend an adaptor?
@@ethan123456ish hi Ethan, I’ve never buffed nitrocellulose lacquer with a buffing wheel like this. You must make certain your piano is polyester. Alliedpiano.com will have everything you need. To answer your question, when buffing polyester I usually keep it on the highest speed.
i am positively surprised that it is possible to repolish a polyester surface of a piano. My old baby grand has a bigger problem, A large part of the polyester has flaked off, is it possible to replace it?
Man, mind numbing and redundant detail work. God bless you young man.
I appreciate your sharing these with us. Your craftsmanship is amazing and hopefully, you have someone who is learning from you to help take care of future pianos.
Really like the long form video with the commentary! Keep it up!
Also for your sanding @ around 13:00, you could try some pneumatic tools that are used in auto body work. I.e. DA sanders and an inline air sander. Harbor freight sells all three for reasonable prices. You say that you wear through sand paper quickly. That's because you're using an electric, handheld palm sander, which is too light duty for what you're doing.
From working in an automotive body shop and doing lots of body work myself in the past, I can tell you that the automotive self-adhevsive sand papers are the way to go. They make sticky back and velcro-backed sandpapers are way better than any of the sand papers I see you using and you can cut them to size to fit your dremel sander. Any auto body supply store will have them in bulk.
Also, there are bondo files you can use to shave down bondo or epoxy without needing a sandpaper at all. These cheese grate style of files are cheap, and great for saving sandpaper work and take off the majority of buildup of bondo and/or fiberglass/resin buildup. Again, you can get these in various shapes at your local automotive body supply or online.
Hey thank you for the insight! I will give these things a try.
@@JacobEmch91 I saw you were actually using some pneumatic sanders later in the video for your finishing work. I posted my original comment before completely watching the video through. Anyway, great video and looking forward to seeing future repairs!
My piano sure could use this work. It's a 1935 Krakauer Bros. (Brooklyn, NY) Louis XVI Art Grand. It's all original with ivory keys and was tuned last in 1967. Don't know if this piano is worth restoring. It's price new was $650 at a furniture store in Los Angeles (purchased by my grandfather in 1935).
I want to be like you when I grow up. I'm 34, but still. Please regulate my GH1 for me until I can afford a Steinway. 😢
😆
Love these videos ❤
18:00 looks like you just successfully converted the finish from Polished Ebony to Satin Ebony ;)
Thank you very much for this video. It is very detailed and worth learning from!!! I have a question, what liquid did you add at 10:36 seconds? What is its purpose? Thank you. Wishing you always good luck!!!!!💓
Thank you for the kind words.
The solution is profelt. Which is used to size the felt to the brass caul. Unfortunately, the original producer stopped making it about a year ago. I think someone in Australia is starting to sell a similar product but I can’t think of what they named it at the moment.
@@JacobEmch91 ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Fascinating work. Nice upload.
There's some sort of static removing 'gun' that auto painters use to prep the car's finish. Maybe one of those might help?
What model buffers are you using? Thank you
Makita but anything will work
Would loved to hear the piano played!!!
Beautiful work guy. I really enjoyed your style of presentation. I use Sailkote by McLube on all key posts. Also great for any friction point. Keep it up. A sub from me
Thanks bud! Thanks for the tip.
This is great that you're documenting the whole process! Was the restaurant giving away the piano for free? Hopefully! Because you really put a lot of time/work into this. The only thing I wish you had some footage of was moving the piano from its original site (even if just some B-roll). Great channel, and new subscriber!
Haha thanks! Not quite free but close. Good idea. 👍
Вообще-то это - РОЯЛЬ!
Nice work! I am curious about he steamer you used. What is it?
Thanks, Nicholas.
Wagner Spraytech 0282014 915e On-Demand Steam Cleaner & Wallpaper Removal, Multipurpose Power Steamer, 18 Attachments Included (Some Pieces Included in Storage Compartment) a.co/d/3ROgTV9
Well done, Jacob! My 55 year old G5 has Pan Head Slotted Screws not flat head and they are not painted. Are they nickel plated but just oxidized? Can you roughly tell the age of a Yamaha piano by the type of screws used? The newer ones have Phillips Head screws. Also did you need to touch up the frame? What color/product would you use to match. Thank You.
Thank you, John. Many times, the screws that go into the pinblock are painted, and the perimeter screws aren’t. They might be nickel plated in your piano, not sure.
Regarding matching the color on the cast iron plate, Yamahas are tough to match. I’ve got some bronzing powder to mix in lacquer for steinways, but it is too “gold” for Yamahas. Best of luck.
Any advice on how to get started learning how to do this?
If you can get started at your local piano store or rebuilder. Or the Piano Technicians Guild is a good place to start if you don’t have a network.
Hey man, i have a piano shop in the UK and I do a few poly repairs myself mainly scratches. I’m intrigued to know what product you’re using for the dents that you pour on? Excellent stuff!
Thanks, Tommy.
I use konig polyester repair material from alliedpiano.com.
Not sure if you can get that in the UK :(
Nice Job!
Thanks, Coen. I’m really enjoying your videos.
Is there any way to make a GH1 sound good?
Ha - if I hear one more salesman say “it just takes a really good technician”… I’m thinking, “it takes a really good tech to deaden the tone enough so you can’t hear the deficiencies of the piano.” 😂
Are you using angle grinder as a buffer? what speed is the grinder?
Hey thanks for watching. The big one is a rotary polisher fitted with a buffing wheel. The small one is a right angle drill. Both are variable speed.
@@JacobEmch91 Thank you so much for the reply! What RPM would you recommend for buffing black lacquer I am looking for the adapter to put my buffing wheel to my polisher. Could you recommend an adaptor?
@@ethan123456ish hi Ethan, I’ve never buffed nitrocellulose lacquer with a buffing wheel like this. You must make certain your piano is polyester. Alliedpiano.com will have everything you need.
To answer your question, when buffing polyester I usually keep it on the highest speed.
i am positively surprised that it is possible to repolish a polyester surface of a piano. My old baby grand has a bigger problem, A large part of the polyester has flaked off, is it possible to replace it?
I see that a lot on Kimball pianos, where the finish flakes off. It’s a big job but it can be repaired.
Какие же у вас серьёзные проблемы!!! 🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣