oh hey Brent.. mod to eliminate bump steer.. threaded rod and ball links, the ball links are the type with the ball having short "tubing" ends on them about 2 mm both sides of the ball. the inside ones (steering rack) go underside, the steering knuckle ends go topside. front wheels stay about parallel even with front end fully pushed down. did have one pop loose at a steering knuckle once, so they got a washer to prevent them coming loose like that again. after going 12t pinion on the 390 the load against the stock ESC is small, moving the steering rod to the inner hole on the servo saver arm and tightening the screw down a little (it has a spring) the servo saver still active and stock servo has pretty strong steering force. good stuff to know if you go the total budget route.
@@AdventureTimeRC yup, the stock electrics are a bit on the wimp side, stock steering servo isn't bad torque after moving the link in, especially after the heat-n-twist to the front A-arms. push the front down and you'll see it toe in some, not horribly tho. with those ball links it's almost zero, and adjustable too (as if you'd need to after its set?).
👍Nice work thanks for the shout out. Mine is done up almost the same but I went with the 80T motor more for slow trailing. It will go much better though stuff now.
Thank you Steve and no problem it was a great idea your green buggy was inspiration for this build i have switched to a 45t the 27 was to fast and over worked the esc working good now
@@AdventureTimeRC yupyup, followed his example with my 12428 clone Virhuck V-01. came all metal gears and full ball bearings but is 390 powered, gives nice run time from 1500mah. 45t 540 motor and real small pinion should be nice.
Good Job Brent, i remember locking the diffs with epoxy on my 12428-C model Rock Racer a couple years ago when i blew the plastic diffs on that one, the epoxy worked pretty good for a while but i eventually broke the epoxy apart cause i was bashing it pretty hard on 3S lipo 😆 For Rock crawling/trail running they should last you pretty good though. I then bought metal gear kits for the front and rear and upgraded the whole truck with new diffs and factory Wltoys 540 motor and esc. Definitely need to be patient as you said to tear these trucks apart and rebuild them. Look forward to see it running, have a good weekend brother 👍🍻
yup, newer ones are the metal diff gears like the clones got (JJRC Virhuck etc) and they hold up pretty good. hard bashing 3S, jumping and landing with big difference between wheel speed and ground speed lunches the plastic diff gears, it'll do it running 2S near as easily. the Virhuck clone has a slipper on the main spur gear, I set it to barely slip when held stopped, same as I do for any RC car that runs a ball diff, saves breaking or twisting drive train parts.
So i have 3 of these because its just a verry cool car, there are many things one can do to upgrade them and even for seriose rock climbing making a lock diff is ok but i wuddnt epoxy it, i would rather pack the diffs full with a thick grease for a verry similar diff lock affect 👍, i just cant see myself destroying those cool little diff units lol, but i just added a bit more softer grease to mine so they still work when turning and so on, i dont bash them either like most people would and drive it as i would my real car, so i set the speed down just until its got enough power to reverse up and over things and drive it at that setting, and i get 2 hrs and 20 minutes run time off one charge like that too, im not for speed but rather the pleasure of simply driving them around im my yard and i get much pleasure from that ✌, ive never even rolled one yet 😜👍
with the stock shocks (12428 and clones) put small round servo grommets (come with WPL stuff) on a small screwdriver shaft, carefully slice the button ends off the center tube section, those are the seals the WLtoys don't come with. wet with oil they install flat side up, finger snug the bottom caps that hold them in, not too tight. the stock shocks are made to hold oil they just didn't put in any seals. the buttons cut from servo grommets have a vertical wall center hole and seal really nice. if they leak tighten the lower cap 1/8 turn or less. the stock shocks are great after a little work. all 4 springs, cut 1.5 turns off 1 end and use two pair needlenose to flatten the new ends, takes away preload so they'll allow flex. reassemble and fill with 10-40 for rears and light grease for the fronts. shock collars all the way up is soft, run them down 3/16 and they're like stock stiff at whim. I get LOTS of flex with the Virhuck V-01 (390 powered 12428 clone) edit: after spring trimming when its dropped a few inches the resting point is about 1/8" less than fully standing, is where the nice flex starts happening. if you're using stock Tx+Rx, move the steering rod on the servo horn to the inner hole. you barely lose any throw but it gives a lot more torque to turn the wheels with, lots less stress on the stock servo gears. Steve's (ShenRC) heat and twist the front A-arms to make the king pins vertical is an excellent way to go, it helps un-stress the steering servo a lot. definitely recommend. 27 turn crawler motor should be good, brushes are neutral timed. give the motor the smallest pinion you can make fit. smallest stock pinion with the V-01 was 21t, gave it a 12t and got torque to climb walls if it were possible, top speed only 8-9 mph. these do great as crawler+bouncer, followed Steve's example with mine but kept it really low budget. 106 to 108 mm tires is as big as the chassis can handle without rubbing.
@@AdventureTimeRC yupyup, picked up the V-01 for 43 bucks eBay because they discontinued it. made it a great crawler/bouncer without it becoming a money pit. just a set of good cheap 108 mm wheels and a pinion gear, not counting the 1600mah 2S I run it and other stuff with.
puts it into a different+slower category that its really better suited for and does very well at. the chassis pan does lack some center clearance even with 106-108 mm tires, but you get used to it quick to choose lines it'll handle. with stock shock mods (add seals, fill, clipping springs), can lift any tire 3-1/4" (other 3 still down) is plenty of flex to get through stuff.
after seeing Steve's mods, I only ran it stock twice (Virhuck 390 powered clone). the CG is too high for their own good at higher speeds, easy to roll over when turning. modded into a crawler/bouncer wasn't expensive, different wheels and a much smaller pinion, everything else was little mods to what's already there... shocks, front A-arm twisting, relocating steering rod inboard on servo horn/saver. climbs and crawls really good, with just enough top speed to do a short jump.. reaching that top 8-9 mph speed in 10-12 feet. tried a 35 turn 380 crawler motor in it, TOO slow. it was better like it was in the first run video of it, so its been changed back. btw +26 years ago I was a Sonoma County critter, good old Flushin' Russian River area.. before it got WRECKED. SRJC was cool back when too.
Can't you put heavy damping geese in it to make it more locking but not 100% .. like 50% .. like we did with my camaro. Friction material to increase limited slip
Cool brent as always buddy any advice on cheeper affordable 3D printer up to 3 400euro that be easy to use set up and if ye buy one online new from ALI EXSPRESS OR BANGOOD OR AMAZON DO THEY COME WITH UR FIRST BATCH RESIN TO USE IT AFTER I SET IT UP OR DO I BUY THAT SEPERATE THANKS JUST LOOKING FOR THE RITE INTEL ON THE PRINTER IV NEVER BEEN GOOD AT TECH SO I WAS HOPING TO GET SENT 3D LINKS THAT U DOWNLOAD AN SEND TO PRINTER AND IT DOES ITS JOB OR HAS VE I GOT MY NOTIONS WRONG COMPLETELY? MEENING DO THEY EVEN WORK THAT WAY OR AM I WAY OFF? IM HOPING THAT IF IM SENT PRINTING LINK SAY FOR FIGURE IN 135TH SCALE OR 18" WHEELS FOR 124TH SCALE CAR UPLOAD SELECT IT AND IT STARTS DOING ITS THING A LITTLE INFO IF U CAN WOULD HELP BRO AND ANY RECOMENDATIONS ON GOOD EASY AFFORDABLE 3D PRINTER GOOD PRICE, S.. THANKS BUDDY AND KEEP UP THE EXCELLENT WORK, 👍UR BUDDY KEITH
Wow amazing upgrades and action figures cant resist not to subscribe... i subscribed to your channel for me to be updated on the next video... i enjoyed watching your video.
Thank you for watching if you would like to see the conclusion to this build here is the link th-cam.com/video/47cfeGEqSRI/w-d-xo.html
oh hey Brent.. mod to eliminate bump steer.. threaded rod and ball links, the ball links are the type with the ball having short "tubing" ends on them about 2 mm both sides of the ball. the inside ones (steering rack) go underside, the steering knuckle ends go topside. front wheels stay about parallel even with front end fully pushed down. did have one pop loose at a steering knuckle once, so they got a washer to prevent them coming loose like that again.
after going 12t pinion on the 390 the load against the stock ESC is small, moving the steering rod to the inner hole on the servo saver arm and tightening the screw down a little (it has a spring) the servo saver still active and stock servo has pretty strong steering force. good stuff to know if you go the total budget route.
Just tried it out yesterday so far no steering issues actually drive really good i think this little thing is a good one
@@AdventureTimeRC yup, the stock electrics are a bit on the wimp side, stock steering servo isn't bad torque after moving the link in, especially after the heat-n-twist to the front A-arms. push the front down and you'll see it toe in some, not horribly tho. with those ball links it's almost zero, and adjustable too (as if you'd need to after its set?).
👍Nice work thanks for the shout out. Mine is done up almost the same but I went with the 80T motor more for slow trailing. It will go much better though stuff now.
Thank you Steve and no problem it was a great idea your green buggy was inspiration for this build i have switched to a 45t the 27 was to fast and over worked the esc working good now
@@AdventureTimeRC yupyup, followed his example with my 12428 clone Virhuck V-01. came all metal gears and full ball bearings but is 390 powered, gives nice run time from 1500mah. 45t 540 motor and real small pinion should be nice.
Very cool upgrades Brent!
Nice upgrade! 👍🤜🤛
Thanks for sharing my friend🙏
Thank you very much my friend
@@AdventureTimeRC ok you're welcome
Good Job Brent, i remember locking the diffs with epoxy on my 12428-C model Rock Racer a couple years ago when i blew the plastic diffs on that one, the epoxy worked pretty good for a while but i eventually broke the epoxy apart cause i was bashing it pretty hard on 3S lipo 😆 For Rock crawling/trail running they should last you pretty good though. I then bought metal gear kits for the front and rear and upgraded the whole truck with new diffs and factory Wltoys 540 motor and esc. Definitely need to be patient as you said to tear these trucks apart and rebuild them. Look forward to see it running, have a good weekend brother 👍🍻
yup, newer ones are the metal diff gears like the clones got (JJRC Virhuck etc) and they hold up pretty good. hard bashing 3S, jumping and landing with big difference between wheel speed and ground speed lunches the plastic diff gears, it'll do it running 2S near as easily. the Virhuck clone has a slipper on the main spur gear, I set it to barely slip when held stopped, same as I do for any RC car that runs a ball diff, saves breaking or twisting drive train parts.
A very interesting first part to upgrade this Wltoys, excellent job !!
Thank you very much I really appreciate it its working really good
@@AdventureTimeRC 😊👍
Good upgrades nice work well done 👍
Got alot done on it! Gonna make it killer.
So i have 3 of these because its just a verry cool car, there are many things one can do to upgrade them and even for seriose rock climbing making a lock diff is ok but i wuddnt epoxy it, i would rather pack the diffs full with a thick grease for a verry similar diff lock affect 👍, i just cant see myself destroying those cool little diff units lol, but i just added a bit more softer grease to mine so they still work when turning and so on, i dont bash them either like most people would and drive it as i would my real car, so i set the speed down just until its got enough power to reverse up and over things and drive it at that setting, and i get 2 hrs and 20 minutes run time off one charge like that too, im not for speed but rather the pleasure of simply driving them around im my yard and i get much pleasure from that ✌, ive never even rolled one yet 😜👍
Nice upgrade buddy!! The rig looks good. 😊👍🏼 good luck with the rest of the upgrade.
Thank you very much i really appreciate it
with the stock shocks (12428 and clones) put small round servo grommets (come with WPL stuff) on a small screwdriver shaft, carefully slice the button ends off the center tube section, those are the seals the WLtoys don't come with. wet with oil they install flat side up, finger snug the bottom caps that hold them in, not too tight. the stock shocks are made to hold oil they just didn't put in any seals. the buttons cut from servo grommets have a vertical wall center hole and seal really nice. if they leak tighten the lower cap 1/8 turn or less.
the stock shocks are great after a little work.
all 4 springs, cut 1.5 turns off 1 end and use two pair needlenose to flatten the new ends, takes away preload so they'll allow flex. reassemble and fill with 10-40 for rears and light grease for the fronts. shock collars all the way up is soft, run them down 3/16 and they're like stock stiff at whim. I get LOTS of flex with the Virhuck V-01 (390 powered 12428 clone) edit: after spring trimming when its dropped a few inches the resting point is about 1/8" less than fully standing, is where the nice flex starts happening.
if you're using stock Tx+Rx, move the steering rod on the servo horn to the inner hole. you barely lose any throw but it gives a lot more torque to turn the wheels with, lots less stress on the stock servo gears.
Steve's (ShenRC) heat and twist the front A-arms to make the king pins vertical is an excellent way to go, it helps un-stress the steering servo a lot. definitely recommend.
27 turn crawler motor should be good, brushes are neutral timed. give the motor the smallest pinion you can make fit. smallest stock pinion with the V-01 was 21t, gave it a 12t and got torque to climb walls if it were possible, top speed only 8-9 mph.
these do great as crawler+bouncer, followed Steve's example with mine but kept it really low budget. 106 to 108 mm tires is as big as the chassis can handle without rubbing.
Good info i just have lots of shocks laying around lol
@@AdventureTimeRC yupyup, picked up the V-01 for 43 bucks eBay because they discontinued it. made it a great crawler/bouncer without it becoming a money pit. just a set of good cheap 108 mm wheels and a pinion gear, not counting the 1600mah 2S I run it and other stuff with.
Nice upgrade 👍🏾💯
Great mods and upgrades! Thanks for the tips!! Have a nice weekend Bro!!
Thank you very much my friend
cool upgrage,have a great weekend brother
Lots of fun work, thanks for tips too enjoy your tutorials 😎🙏
Thank you Lou you always have nice things to say appreciate it brother
cool 😎 excellent vidéos 😍👍
Thank you very much my friend
Great video my friend👍and nice upgrade
Awesome upgrades pal great job 😊👍 had no internet for a wile looks like I got a lot to catch up on 🤣😂👍✌
Lol no problem brother thanks for watching
Very nice 👍 i quite like the look of it also 🤘
Thank you very much my friend i really appreciate it
@@AdventureTimeRC its taller body than the 12428+clones, if it rolls its more likely to stop upright, gotta love when they'll do that!
Cool upgrad my friend , now I c an wait see in action ! Lol , cheers from France 👍😉
Thank you very much my friend
Cool should help with the performance
puts it into a different+slower category that its really better suited for and does very well at. the chassis pan does lack some center clearance even with 106-108 mm tires, but you get used to it quick to choose lines it'll handle. with stock shock mods (add seals, fill, clipping springs), can lift any tire 3-1/4" (other 3 still down) is plenty of flex to get through stuff.
That´s a comprehensive series of upgrades. It´ll be very interesting to see how the 12429 does out on the rocks!
little red Virhuck V-01 runs great after same kinda mods
You are going to town on this one bro.. cool rc for sure when you are done with it
after seeing Steve's mods, I only ran it stock twice (Virhuck 390 powered clone). the CG is too high for their own good at higher speeds, easy to roll over when turning. modded into a crawler/bouncer wasn't expensive, different wheels and a much smaller pinion, everything else was little mods to what's already there... shocks, front A-arm twisting, relocating steering rod inboard on servo horn/saver.
climbs and crawls really good, with just enough top speed to do a short jump.. reaching that top 8-9 mph speed in 10-12 feet. tried a 35 turn 380 crawler motor in it, TOO slow. it was better like it was in the first run video of it, so its been changed back. btw +26 years ago I was a Sonoma County critter, good old Flushin' Russian River area.. before it got WRECKED. SRJC was cool back when too.
Thank you brother it is a fun project
Can't you put heavy damping geese in it to make it more locking but not 100% .. like 50% .. like we did with my camaro. Friction material to increase limited slip
Wltoys 12428 and 12429 is the same parts?ty
Cool brent as always buddy any advice on cheeper affordable 3D printer up to 3 400euro that be easy to use set up and if ye buy one online new from ALI EXSPRESS OR BANGOOD OR AMAZON DO THEY COME WITH UR FIRST BATCH RESIN TO USE IT AFTER I SET IT UP OR DO I BUY THAT SEPERATE THANKS JUST LOOKING FOR THE RITE INTEL ON THE PRINTER IV NEVER BEEN GOOD AT TECH SO I WAS HOPING TO GET SENT 3D LINKS THAT U DOWNLOAD AN SEND TO PRINTER AND IT DOES ITS JOB OR HAS VE I GOT MY NOTIONS WRONG COMPLETELY? MEENING DO THEY EVEN WORK THAT WAY OR AM I WAY OFF? IM HOPING THAT IF IM SENT PRINTING LINK SAY FOR FIGURE IN 135TH SCALE OR 18" WHEELS FOR 124TH SCALE CAR UPLOAD SELECT IT AND IT STARTS DOING ITS THING A LITTLE INFO IF U CAN WOULD HELP BRO AND ANY RECOMENDATIONS ON GOOD EASY AFFORDABLE 3D PRINTER GOOD PRICE, S.. THANKS BUDDY AND KEEP UP THE EXCELLENT WORK, 👍UR BUDDY KEITH
Any of the ender brand are good and affordable Keith well worth the money thank you for watching brother I appreciate it
Hi
I'm new to rc. Where can I buy these parts or how do I know which parts can be used on my car?
Amazon is a great place for parts I would just watch lits of different video s see what everyone is using and decide what works for you
Dommage que je ne comprend pas l'anglais mon ami. 😒
Thank you very much my friend
Wow amazing upgrades and action figures cant resist not to subscribe... i subscribed to your channel for me to be updated on the next video... i enjoyed watching your video.
Thank you very much my friend I really appreciate it hope you have a wonderful day