How cool that your son is a serious guitarist! I've met guys in their 70's who play metal...they say it keeps one young...thanks for the great info...love the green guitar...cheers!
OMG...!!! I've really enjoyed your lecture. It is one of the greatest video on the guitar maintenance. Thank you very much your valuable teaching. And I like the title of your lecture series..which reminds me of my one of favorite books..Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.🎸👍🌹
I was sure you were gonna use the bananas as a stand to elevate the neck. I don´t have a yoga mat or a wife with one of those, but i occasionally do have bananas, I´m gonna use one or three of those. Anyways, great stuff as always.
Essential viewing for all players! In all the time I've been adjusting truss rods I never thought to simulate the force the strings place on the neck, no more removing and refitting the neck multiple times on my 60's strat :-) Have you ever thought of using a capo on the first fret when checking the relief/truss rod? If someone is not used to doing this check it makes it much easier to do, also if someone is new to making this adjustment, a set of mechanics feeler gauges are useful for checking the distance between string and fret to see if it is close to the makers recommendation. Big thumbs up to Saalas and Blackment. Good to see a new band that can nail it live as well as on a recording.
Thank you Derek! It's a good idea to use a capo on the first fret when checking the radius. I've seen some others do it, but didn't come to think of it when making the video, as I haven't done it like that myself. But, yeah, it can make it easier - with the addition of feeler gauges as well.
Nice to get good tips for local instances. Lemon oil is too runny and wears off quickly so Im going after for that wax. BTW: If you change strings and their label too, action might change by tightness - even that they are remaining the same thickness. Fender type bridge changes then as well, if its floating, it usually raises when more tight string label. So Juha's procedure works then too, or might I dare to say "algorithm". Hmmm... I have Finnish marks left, now I got a reason to carry one with me.... Good idea to save the pieces of old strings for clean up work on the nut. I usually "lubricate" them with a graphite-stuff but that stuff might get dirt summoned by time. I save the balls from the old strings for my Gibson. I put balls thru new stings since I wound up stings behind the saddle. That prevents scratching my hand on where string bindings (or knots) ends. They are ofter sticking out. Some people loosen the neck half a turn after the strings are tuned, that the neck settles in the pocket where it wants to settle and then tighten it finally. I noticed not much difference, once tested. This was so joyful to watch...
Huge thanks! Wish I had something like this 20 years ago when I was hesitant to play in a band since I couldn't setup my guitar and it didn't sound too marvelous. Still learned some tricks which is always good. Would you do anything different with maple fretboard? Is there any special tricks with Floyd Rose, like blocking the system when taking strings off etc. or does it matter with the springs and such? Keep it up, Mikko
Thank you! Let's do another vid at some point with double locking whammy! About maple fretboard - don't put oil or wax on it. Just clean it with the guitar polish - the same stuff you clean the guitar finish with. :)
Thanks for the shared knowledge! You are an impressive luthier and your guitars are a work of art. I'm interested in how to make my guitar playable, so I started reading books and watching videos, the information on some things was quite conflicting, that's why I'm writing to you. I recently purchased a fretrocker and found that my frets need to be leveled, then found that the nut needed to be renewed, could you tell me about these purposes is the equal or proportional string spacing at nut is right and flat or radiused leveling beam and short or long beam is the correct tool to use?
Thank you Alexander. 🙏 Good questions - and challenging to answer thoroughly, as executing these tasks you mentioned is a skill that typically takes years of practise and hundreds of fret jobs to master. That said, proportional string spacing at nut is the right way to do it - in other words, the gaps between the strings are made equal width, taking the string gauge (thickness) into account in the calculation. We use a long non-radiused beam for leveling the frets, but I'm aware some use a long radiused beam with great result too. A shorter beam may be useful with some problematic necks, but as said, mastering this skill and understanding all the different factors that affect in individual necks made of wood, thus potentially "behaving" different from each other, sometimes having quirks that can be challenging and need creativity to fix, is a long and tedious journey. Summarizing - you mention you found with a fret rocker that your frets need to be leveled. This, in itself, is only a small fraction of the data needed to analyze what actually needs to be done. If the frets are not leveled, is it because they're not pressed to the fretboard properly? If yes, they might need to be re-seated instead of dressed. Is the fretboard straight or warped? If yes, fret dressing may be a helpful first aid but the correct way again would be pulling out the frets, leveling the fretboard and a refret. And so on and on an on. In any case I wish all the best to your endeavours! 👍
Thanks a lot for the comprehensive answer. I will definitely practice on another guitar first and only when the results are satisfactory will I apply on my existing guitar. I have been interested in luthier making and in particular repairs for several years, but it was only now that I decided to make my first attempts at improving the playability of my guitar. Thanks again Juha, you are one of the few people who inspire me!
Hi Juha, thanks for the vídeo. I wanted to ask you a question. Is the turpentine safe with the guitar finish or you should be careful when applying it to the wood for cleaning? All the best.
Yes turpentine is safe for most finishes. If the guitar is finished with shellac, then you shouldn't use turpentine. For nitro finished guitars, you can wipe with turpentine lightly but not soak in it.
Hi Benjamin. Thank you! :) Maple fretboards are almost always lacquered, and therefore no oil is needed (or recommended). Instead, you can clean the maple fretboard with the same guitar polish compound you use to clean the body and neck of the guitar.
Very informative. Learned something new. Thanks
Subscribed!
How cool that your son is a serious guitarist! I've met guys in their 70's who play metal...they say it keeps one young...thanks for the great info...love the green guitar...cheers!
OMG...!!! I've really enjoyed your lecture. It is one of the greatest video on the guitar maintenance. Thank you very much your valuable teaching. And I like the title of your lecture series..which reminds me of my one of favorite books..Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.🎸👍🌹
Thank you! 🙏
thank you Juha and Saalas for this great video!
🙏
This is my favourite guitar maintenance video out there! Thank you!
Great stuff Juha & Son. Thanks !
I was sure you were gonna use the bananas as a stand to elevate the neck. I don´t have a yoga mat or a wife with one of those, but i occasionally do have bananas, I´m gonna use one or three of those. Anyways, great stuff as always.
😁🙏
Liked so much this Video. If possible, next time, make another one with intonation on floyd rose equipped guitars.
Thanks! Many wishes for a floyd rose guitar setup. Will work on it when we have a chance!
Essential viewing for all players! In all the time I've been adjusting truss rods I never thought to simulate the force the strings place on the neck, no more removing and refitting the neck multiple times on my 60's strat :-)
Have you ever thought of using a capo on the first fret when checking the relief/truss rod? If someone is not used to doing this check it makes it much easier to do, also if someone is new to making this adjustment, a set of mechanics feeler gauges are useful for checking the distance between string and fret to see if it is close to the makers recommendation.
Big thumbs up to Saalas and Blackment. Good to see a new band that can nail it live as well as on a recording.
Thank you Derek! It's a good idea to use a capo on the first fret when checking the radius. I've seen some others do it, but didn't come to think of it when making the video, as I haven't done it like that myself. But, yeah, it can make it easier - with the addition of feeler gauges as well.
I think your son just wants to play and leave the mechanics to the expert. Great job guys!
Awesome video. Warmed my heart :)
Thank you! :)
Good taste in whiskey - so I trust this guy.
Really good and informative video! Keep it up!
Great, informative and congenial video! And Juha: you and your son - one of a kind! Both great guys!
Nice to get good tips for local instances. Lemon oil is too runny and wears off quickly so Im going after for that wax. BTW: If you change strings and their label too, action might change by tightness - even that they are remaining the same thickness. Fender type bridge changes then as well, if its floating, it usually raises when more tight string label. So Juha's procedure works then too, or might I dare to say "algorithm". Hmmm... I have Finnish marks left, now I got a reason to carry one with me....
Good idea to save the pieces of old strings for clean up work on the nut. I usually "lubricate" them with a graphite-stuff but that stuff might get dirt summoned by time. I save the balls from the old strings for my Gibson. I put balls thru new stings since I wound up stings behind the saddle. That prevents scratching my hand on where string bindings (or knots) ends. They are ofter sticking out.
Some people loosen the neck half a turn after the strings are tuned, that the neck settles in the pocket where it wants to settle and then tighten it finally. I noticed not much difference, once tested.
This was so joyful to watch...
This is excellent. Thank you. One suggestion. For future reference can you please time index the various adjustments in the drop down commentary?
Thank you! Yes, we have it in the plans to make time index for this one as well, just haven't found the time just yet.... :)
Hi Martin, just wanted to let you know we have added the time index in the description! :-)
What is a master without a pupil.Great video.
Thank you! 🙏
Huge thanks! Wish I had something like this 20 years ago when I was hesitant to play in a band since I couldn't setup my guitar and it didn't sound too marvelous. Still learned some tricks which is always good.
Would you do anything different with maple fretboard? Is there any special tricks with Floyd Rose, like blocking the system when taking strings off etc. or does it matter with the springs and such?
Keep it up,
Mikko
Thank you! Let's do another vid at some point with double locking whammy! About maple fretboard - don't put oil or wax on it. Just clean it with the guitar polish - the same stuff you clean the guitar finish with. :)
Thanks for the shared knowledge!
You are an impressive luthier and your guitars are a work of art. I'm interested in how to make my guitar playable, so I started reading books and watching videos, the information on some things was quite conflicting, that's why I'm writing to you.
I recently purchased a fretrocker and found that my frets need to be leveled, then found that the nut needed to be renewed, could you tell me about these purposes is the equal or proportional string spacing at nut is right and flat or radiused leveling beam and short or long beam is the correct tool to use?
Thank you Alexander. 🙏 Good questions - and challenging to answer thoroughly, as executing these tasks you mentioned is a skill that typically takes years of practise and hundreds of fret jobs to master. That said, proportional string spacing at nut is the right way to do it - in other words, the gaps between the strings are made equal width, taking the string gauge (thickness) into account in the calculation. We use a long non-radiused beam for leveling the frets, but I'm aware some use a long radiused beam with great result too. A shorter beam may be useful with some problematic necks, but as said, mastering this skill and understanding all the different factors that affect in individual necks made of wood, thus potentially "behaving" different from each other, sometimes having quirks that can be challenging and need creativity to fix, is a long and tedious journey. Summarizing - you mention you found with a fret rocker that your frets need to be leveled. This, in itself, is only a small fraction of the data needed to analyze what actually needs to be done. If the frets are not leveled, is it because they're not pressed to the fretboard properly? If yes, they might need to be re-seated instead of dressed. Is the fretboard straight or warped? If yes, fret dressing may be a helpful first aid but the correct way again would be pulling out the frets, leveling the fretboard and a refret. And so on and on an on. In any case I wish all the best to your endeavours! 👍
Thanks a lot for the comprehensive answer. I will definitely practice on another guitar first and only when the results are satisfactory will I apply on my existing guitar. I have been interested in luthier making and in particular repairs for several years, but it was only now that I decided to make my first attempts at improving the playability of my guitar.
Thanks again Juha, you are one of the few people who inspire me!
@@alexanderallard8584 Thank you! Happy to be an inspiration and of help too! :)
Hi Juha, thanks for the vídeo. I wanted to ask you a question. Is the turpentine safe with the guitar finish or you should be careful when applying it to the wood for cleaning? All the best.
Yes turpentine is safe for most finishes. If the guitar is finished with shellac, then you shouldn't use turpentine. For nitro finished guitars, you can wipe with turpentine lightly but not soak in it.
@@ruokangas Great information, thanks, I just discovered the channel. Will see all the videos carefully.
What oil, if any, would you recommend for a maple fretboard? It's very difficult to find any sensible advice around how best to treat them.
P.s great video series by the way. Most enlightening :)
Hi Benjamin. Thank you! :) Maple fretboards are almost always lacquered, and therefore no oil is needed (or recommended). Instead, you can clean the maple fretboard with the same guitar polish compound you use to clean the body and neck of the guitar.
@@ruokangas Brilliant, that's very helpful - thank you. I'll continue doing just that then :)
Can I click like several times??
:)