I watched this video a long time ago and meant to leave a comment then. It slipped my mind, but I think it's important to set some things straight. I apologize if other comments have already addressed this. The key here is the fusible link. Parts of the car's electronics are fed from the battery side and other parts are fed from the alternator side. If the link is open and you energize the alternator side when the engine is running, the alternator wakes up and maintains 14V on that part of the system. Of course, if you cycle the key, you lose the 14V again. The problem here is that the alternator is working without a battery to soak up spikes and ripple. It's well known that you should not operate a modern car without a battery. Further, if you know or suspect that the car was jumped backwards, the first thing to do is check the fusible line with an ohm meter or, as done in the video, with a voltmeter. If the link is open, replace it before doing anything else, such as energizing the alternator side.
Thank you.. I need all the info i can get. My car starts but wont drive over 20 miles per hour, then i shut it off wont start for another couple of hours by itself.? I dunno if you will see this, any suggestions
Have exactly the same issue with my daughters 2009 Rav4. She broke down yesterday, possibly due to dead/dying battery, her 'friend' turned up before I did, jumped the car and killed it. This is the best vid I have seen that not only shows the cause of jumping backwards, but also how to pull that stupid fuse box apart, Bolted in fuse, Only Toyota would do that. Thank you for the awsome hints..
This is entry level repair which is overlooked 9 out of 10 times by most dealers. There first step would be replace the battery and alternator (because battery light is on). Then, after spending 1000 dollars of your money, are either lost or check the fuses and even then would try to sell you a complete new fusebox assembly because the manual states it's a none serviceable component.
Just had this happen yesterday to my wife's Rav4. Guy at work jumped backwards and no radio,no throttle response. Had towed to mechanic shop. Told me 470 bucks for new electronic throttle body. I asked if he checked 120 and other fuses. I also stated I wanted my old throttle body parts. Guess what lo? It was now fuses only. Thanks for the video and good info!
Wow, thank you for sharing the video. What a pain in the rear end just to replace a "big" blown fuse. It should have been designed a little better to be a little less painful to replace. Great video.
120A fuses are usually bolted in. Thats why they are called "fused links". They are not really meant to be serviced by the customer. They are just a safety measure that protects against major damage in the event of reversing the polarity on a battery or jumper cables. But yes, this is a horrible design on Toyota's part. I have done fuse links on a Honda before and it was simple compared to this contraption haha.
Thanks bro, you saved me from taking the car to a workshop and possibly spending money unnecessarily. My 2015 Rav4 Limited had the same problem, but with your video I solve it.
Subscribed!!! I have 80% same issue O7 LS460. One would think that after paying so much for the car toyota would put RED CABLE on + connector. Here I am with no dash lights, except for Door Ajar light. No Crank and No Start Start button dimly lit and not responding, Key Fob not aknowledged Windows halfway down, Radio not working, Wipers not working. new X-tool D7 scanner cant complete Auto Scan over 94%, Lights work fine, battery is discharging and at the accelerated rate too, during scanning attempts now, likely due to scanner draw. Tomorrow will try YOUR way, besides what do I have to loose. Weeks ago I did order another ECM unit but they send me a completely different one ( it is one with 6 plug ports where my LS460 has only 4 ports) it is going back! But It might even not be the issue after I carefully studied Your awesome video! Thank YOU thank YOU!
When you used the power probe to feed the fuse box voltage this gave the alternator enough power to excite the windings and activate. From that point the alternator was powering the rest of the car. Sometimes you can rev the engine and it can self excite.
Good morning sir Mr Tony am so sorry for disturbing you but i need a job am from benin republic but Working in Nigeria with mikano international as automobile electrician and Air conditioner but am still looking for a job outside the country if you need some body who Can work with you and still learn some things from you please help me
Great video, very informative, thank you for uploading. In fact I am Licensed Master Electrician and used battery Jumped backwards :))) shame on me. This video really helped me and did the job.
IIRC Toyota calls those "fusible link blocks" or something similar, they do not refer to them as fuses. Most auto chain clerks will have no idea what you need, if you just for a fuse.
Man great video as I am having the same issue except while tightening the exhaust manifold bolt I accidently grounded to the alternator stud and now I have the blown 120A fuse and several systems not working including no power at the dlc connector. Thnx for the good video.
Hi! Wow thanks alot for taking the time to share!!! I am working on my 2011 Toyota Tundra 4x4 5.7 electrical system, because I grounded out my trailer lights to direct ground, now I only have running lights to my trailer and no stop or turn lights to my trailer plug, all the fuses are all good. I wanted to know if I am miss???
This video came up recommended after watching a few RAV4 reviews, very informative. Having lived in Texas and Florida I knew somewhat how you felt working in that heat...no fun. Now if I do go ahead and buy a RAV4, or any Toyota I will definitely be careful about ever having it jump started.
After 46 years in auto service I still clearly recall the very first thing that was beaten into my 18 year old brain. "MAKE" and "BREAK" the NEGATIVE!!! Worked then. Works now!
@@MrTwisted1977 Sorry, read that as CONNECT and DISCONNECT the negative. The purpose is to prevent the arcing (sparking) that occurs when you do it with the positive terminal. Very worst case I ever saw took out the alternator diodes. ($$$$$$$). Hope this helps.
Great video sure it will help others. Same thing with an old Mazda protege I had. The red battery terminal cover had turned black & I was in a hurry...hooked it up backwards & had an 80amp fuse blow that looked the same. The bolts got me too😁 Stupid mistake, but lesson learned...I double check the battery marking every time now.
@@stephenwgreen78 I got a 95, and a dude jumped my car he put the positive cable on the negative and the negative on the positive and i noticed they were reversed after one minute, and no electronics work only the hazards. Did ur main fuse blow, did you have the same symptoms?
@@Bajrangiprasadkumar it was the main fuse. There's a screw holding it in, so when you swap it don't just yank on it like an idiot (like I did) and break it into a million tiny pieces 😂🤣. I think it was 80amp or something ridiculous like that, and the bolt/screw was a pain to get to. But pretty simple fix.
Just did the same thing on a 07 FJ. Only the alternator itself shorted to ground and caused the 120A to blow. Replacing the alternator was easy. Getting into the fuse box to get to the 120A took a few hours lol
The red and green oiled felt washers are a great idea. Also mark terminals with a red and green paint stick. Batteries are poorly marked. Do not be in a hurry. When you have seen batteries explode in someones face a couple of times you will respect the power in a battery. An old adage: When you are in a hurry you are in danger.
Great use of the PP I love having one. It’s one of the best purchases I made. Shame when people jump backwards ground is always one right on those plastic batteries. Excellent video man... jay
@@bobweiss8682 The ECU computer on some cars is reverse polarity protected , often the main relay that supply's power to many of the accessory's wont close unless the computer commands it to do so.. accessory's that have direct fused power all the time are at risk ..
mazdaman, they were thinking of more ways to keep us Mechanics in the service department busy and making money and also keeping untrained and idiot jury riggers from bypassing that main power feed fuse and frying the whole electrical system, Thanks Toyota, that was a nice $150-$200 job....easy peasy.
To be fair, of the millions of Toyota cars on the road, how many ever have their main fuse link blow? Now, if they just made it a push-in fuse, the possibility of a vibration or temperature related arc could cause the link to weld itself to the harness and THAT would be REALLY bad (aka, expensive). I've never blow one or seen one blown, but I"ve never reverse the jumper cable either. :-)
From an electrical standpoint since it is dealing with very high current it is actually a better design to have it bolted because it is a more solid connection and less potential for it come loose over time and develop high resistance which could lead to melting of the terminals.
2017 Rav4 XLE AWD same story on this end, BATTERY JUMPED BACKWARDS (I know). Both fuse boxes with blown fuses. Right hand side fuse box facing the vehicle with a few blown fuses 10A,20A (already replaced). Left hand side relay/fuse box with the HTR 50A blown. When I try to installation new 50A as soon it touches the pins/terminals the fuse blown again (already try 3new fuses and same issue. AC NOT WORKING no air coming out of the vents (hot or cold). Any suggestions? And thanks in advance
I had a Toyota Avensis 1998 model (UK built car) and accidently shorted the alternator when opening the engine coolant drain plug located near. This blew the fusible link just like the RAV4. Everything was identical, including dismantling the fuse box. The difference was no other fuse blew. I did the same repair about 9 years ago.
It’s called “overhead”. Unfortunately, it costs a lot of money in just overhead to run a business with employees. The bigger the building the more $$ it costs, and that trickles down to the customer.
Would the diagnosis be similar in the case where the battery terminal is connected in reverse for less than 10 seconds. My car has dash lights but won’t start after connecting the terminals in right order.
Same issue on a 2011 Rav4. Tried to diagnose with a multimeter and couldn't figure out why fuses weren't blown but radio, blower, no power, no start but some lights would come on in the dash. Went and got a test light and found out the under hood fuse blocks had power but the interior fuse block had no power. Then looked closer at the 120 amp fuse and it was blown. Then my uncle said "Oh yeah when I was installing the alternator it sparked because I forgot to unhook the battery. " Mannnn that would have saved some time but yeah that bolt in fusible link sucked to change out but it was $4 from auto store.
This person is extremely lucky nothing was fried. I knew someone who did this and they ended up having to replace the computer and the alternator. The best way to avoid this in the future is to use color-coded terminals as it looks like this vehicle has the same colored terminals.
Wondering if you could help me out, same happened to me. Jumped off backwards on a Miata and blow the main fuse. Replaced it got it to crank and run but the tail lights, blinkers, interior lights along with the radio didn’t work. Check all the other fuses and nothing was blown not sure what to do?
Exact same thing happened to me yesterday in my 2015 Toyota rav4 and the same fuse went out but in your video or comments you said you replaced "some" Fuses were there any others I need to look at cause I think I've looked them all and Couldn't find any other fuses broken? However I pulled the cover off of that view and connected it back together and the car just did a bunch of weird stuff so I'm not sure this is going to work
the battery in my celica was installed with the terminals backwards. the car won’t start up now. any chance is this 120A fuse or am i looking at a new ECU?
Given the very high current flow that can pass through a Charging system fuse and the risk of fire from a bad connection to it its the only way to make a solid low Resistance connection is to bolt it to the power buss connections.. The diodes in the alternator allow huge current flow in a reverse polarity connection situation the alternator would burn up in seconds if it were not for the fuse link..
I was wiring fog lights and something shorted. Obd dude and radio fuse (i had tapped into 12v+ acc to temp power fog lights) has blown. replaced and radio turns on but now car won’t start no fuel pump prime.. it just cranks. I was doing some troubleshooting and I noticed am2 and efi no 1 don’t have any power. Do you have any idea why ? And should these be powered if the car is on but not started? Thanks
It pays to buy a lithium jump starter these days as the new lithium jump starters have a sensor that won't let the electricity flow if the cables are installed incorrectly. For a $60.00 jump starter its cheap insurance and you don't need a second car if you get stranded in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery. Jump starters pay for themselves even after a single car boost. If you buy a lithium jump starter buy the ones that can be charged with the 12 volt socket and 120 volt wall socket. The better jump starters will have a regular 400 CCA capability with an instantaneous boost button feature that can provide 700 CCA for batteries that have been totally drained. Since the jump starters are used only once or twice s year I would think that these units should last in excess of 10+ years even if you did 10 boosts a year. They are based on the same lithium ion technology that are used in modern day laptops.
The best feature on Li-Ion jump packs....their storage ability. I just keep mine under the passenger chair. My old lead acid jump pack was a real pain because there was really no place to store it in my car.
@poor fellow Fancy jumper cables won't work connected backwards either, or some are "auto sensing" and can be connected in any way (but those won't work with a zero volt battery I'm sure) and I'm pretty sure they're cheaper than a lithium jump starter... but then you still need to flag down some idiot to get a jump from...
Agree...I've got one in each car just in case. Fyi, they say disconnect from vehicle after 10seconds & they aren't kidding. Project truck with no battery I left it hooked to the wires checking for fluid leaks...jump pack caught on fire. It can't handle amps into the battery from the alternator. Luckily I saw it blowing up like a balloon & threw it into the yard before it erupted in flames...I really like the truck 😁
my dumbass just tried to jump it backwards just was in a hurry but not in a hurry anymore lol thanks for the video i been pulling on that damn fuse for 20 minutes lmao
I'm confused, why was the power restored after applying power to the box with the probe even though you removed the probe? Does doing that somehow bypass the 120 amp fuse?
@@greggdevlin8686 I don't think that the alternator has a direct feed to the fuse box? Pretty sure it feeds the battery which feeds the box. Either way, if it does feed the box then it seems odd that it would go through a different fuse...
know someone in the late 80's who tried to jump start their car - managed to short the positive connection to the metal casing of the ECU which was located right next to the battery - one bang and a shower of sparks later was left with a very dead ECU. From memory a replacement ECU cost him around £500 and that was with a big discount from another friend who worked at the dealer (would be around £1400 today taking inflation into account)
My 2009 Corolla was jumped incorrectly. The charger car's battery neg went to my pos and the charger car's pos went to my chassis ground. It's weird. My Corollas horn sounded, like a warning of reversed polarity. I've never jumped it wrong so it startled me. Next I had several blown fuses. AM1(7.5a), AM2 no 2(7.5a), and a few 10A fuses like the radio. Replaced both 7.5a fuses and hot it to start, but then died and the fuses popped again. I don't know what's up
Good morning this is my first Time to watch your video i really love this am electrician also and still Working on air conditionner but am still looking for job ooo if possible for you to help me i will like to work with if possible thanks.
My brother borrowed my car to jump-start his car and got the cables crossed and it blew a hole in the side of his battery. I was just glad it wasn't mine.
You're funny. Didn't you notice some fuses had 11V while others had 14V? The 11V ones were tied to the battery. The 14V ones were tied to the alternator. What you did with the power probe was activate the alternator. When the engine was killed the alternator shut down thus the 14V went away.
I watched this video a long time ago and meant to leave a comment then. It slipped my mind, but I think it's important to set some things straight. I apologize if other comments have already addressed this. The key here is the fusible link. Parts of the car's electronics are fed from the battery side and other parts are fed from the alternator side. If the link is open and you energize the alternator side when the engine is running, the alternator wakes up and maintains 14V on that part of the system. Of course, if you cycle the key, you lose the 14V again. The problem here is that the alternator is working without a battery to soak up spikes and ripple. It's well known that you should not operate a modern car without a battery. Further, if you know or suspect that the car was jumped backwards, the first thing to do is check the fusible line with an ohm meter or, as done in the video, with a voltmeter. If the link is open, replace it before doing anything else, such as energizing the alternator side.
Thank you.. I need all the info i can get. My car starts but wont drive over 20 miles per hour, then i shut it off wont start for another couple of hours by itself.? I dunno if you will see this, any suggestions
Have exactly the same issue with my daughters 2009 Rav4. She broke down yesterday, possibly due to dead/dying battery, her 'friend' turned up before I did, jumped the car and killed it. This is the best vid I have seen that not only shows the cause of jumping backwards, but also how to pull that stupid fuse box apart, Bolted in fuse, Only Toyota would do that. Thank you for the awsome hints..
Nice diagnosis. Lots of guys would have jumped to replacing the ECU knowing it had reverse polarity.
they smarted up a bit they have idiot protection but the other stuff did not.. I see the alternator being replaced in the future though
This is entry level repair which is overlooked 9 out of 10 times by most dealers. There first step would be replace the battery and alternator (because battery light is on). Then, after spending 1000 dollars of your money, are either lost or check the fuses and even then would try to sell you a complete new fusebox assembly because the manual states it's a none serviceable component.
true!
Just had this happen yesterday to my wife's Rav4. Guy at work jumped backwards and no radio,no throttle response. Had towed to mechanic shop. Told me 470 bucks for new electronic throttle body. I asked if he checked 120 and other fuses. I also stated I wanted my old throttle body parts. Guess what lo? It was now fuses only. Thanks for the video and good info!
I hate scummy shops. Makes me wonder how many people they have scammed.
I really love your real life hands on video and the way u go about finding the electrical problems
Thank you! I truly appreciate your support!
Wow, thank you for sharing the video. What a pain in the rear end just to replace a "big" blown fuse. It should have been designed a little better to be a little less painful to replace. Great video.
120A fuses are usually bolted in. Thats why they are called "fused links". They are not really meant to be serviced by the customer. They are just a safety measure that protects against major damage in the event of reversing the polarity on a battery or jumper cables. But yes, this is a horrible design on Toyota's part. I have done fuse links on a Honda before and it was simple compared to this contraption haha.
Thanks bro, you saved me from taking the car to a workshop and possibly spending money unnecessarily. My 2015 Rav4 Limited had the same problem, but with your video I solve it.
Ps. I bought a new battery anyway, the 120A fuse and some other blown fuses
Not sure how many hours you spent on this, but you helped me do it in 45 minutes without having access to the manual. Thanks.
Subscribed!!! I have 80% same issue O7 LS460. One would think that after paying so much for the car toyota would put RED CABLE on + connector.
Here I am with no dash lights, except for Door Ajar light.
No Crank and No Start
Start button dimly lit and not responding,
Key Fob not aknowledged
Windows halfway down,
Radio not working,
Wipers not working.
new X-tool D7 scanner cant complete Auto Scan over 94%, Lights work fine, battery is discharging and at the accelerated rate too, during scanning attempts now, likely due to scanner draw.
Tomorrow will try YOUR way, besides what do I have to loose.
Weeks ago I did order another ECM unit but they send me a completely different one ( it is one with 6 plug ports where my LS460 has only 4 ports) it is going back!
But It might even not be the issue after I carefully studied Your awesome video! Thank YOU thank YOU!
When you used the power probe to feed the fuse box voltage this gave the alternator enough power to excite the windings and activate.
From that point the alternator was powering the rest of the car. Sometimes you can rev the engine and it can self excite.
Thank you so much for this video repair. It was exactly what I needed. Couldn’t have repaired my car without it.
Good morning sir Mr Tony am so sorry for disturbing you but i need a job am from benin republic but Working in Nigeria with mikano international as automobile electrician and Air conditioner but am still looking for a job outside the country if you need some body who Can work with you and still learn some things from you please help me
Just found your channel and gotta say.... Great video brother.. I think you'll go a long way in the tube.... Got me... Good shit ...
You are right this is a great channel.
Life saver... My fuse was blown but was unable to see it through the fuse window. Thanks a lot!
Great video, very informative, thank you for uploading. In fact I am Licensed Master Electrician and used battery Jumped backwards :))) shame on me. This video really helped me and did the job.
IIRC Toyota calls those "fusible link blocks" or something similar, they do not refer to them as fuses. Most auto chain clerks will have no idea what you need, if you just for a fuse.
Dealerfuse
Brother, you don't know what this video helped me... thank you very much...
Man great video as I am having the same issue except while tightening the exhaust manifold bolt I accidently grounded to the alternator stud and now I have the blown 120A fuse and several systems not working including no power at the dlc connector. Thnx for the good video.
This video taught us to replace battery as soon as the battery is expired, do not delay.
It's a shame cars didn't have a test function. I've had batteries fail at inconvenient times and the cold weather also will make a weak battery fail.
THE VIDEO WAS FANTASTIC , THANKS AND PLEASE KEEP THEM COMING !
I’m working on it. Thanks for watching!
Well done. I would have lost it with that fuse, being bolted in lol.
That happened to me once!
I like the small battery too. The jump packs r a pain. U have to press a button. Then maybe it works, maybe it doesn’t. Battery is consistent.
great job Eric excellent methodology better a fusible link take one for the team than a pricey PCM keep em coming
Thank you for watching!
Hi! Wow thanks alot for taking the time to share!!! I am working on my 2011 Toyota Tundra 4x4 5.7 electrical system, because I grounded out my trailer lights to direct ground, now I only have running lights to my trailer and no stop or turn lights to my trailer plug, all the fuses are all good. I wanted to know if I am miss???
Good job you have done here. I wish you the best in your life Eric.
never back up, you are the best.
Boy,they couldn’t have designed it to be more difficult! Great fix video!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That fuse is really fun to replace. What a design. Thanks for sharing 👍
Yeah, I’d like to meet the guy who designed that thing lol
Its a really clever design with 110 Ampere the connection really needs to be tight
it's not a part that gets changed out that often, maybe only if you let someone jump your car and they hook up the cables WRONG.
hermano no sabes lo que me sirvio este video.. muchisimas gracias ...
The irony that I killed my car with a jump batter that I clipped in reverse in a moment of haste, darkness, and stupidity.
Fuses did their job. Love the power probe. Reminds me, I have some parasitic off ignition loads to chase.
I was screaming "check the 120!!" LOL. Had a buddy with an '03 Camry jumped it backwards and same problem. Fuse box is a pain!
This video came up recommended after watching a few RAV4 reviews, very informative. Having lived in Texas and Florida I knew somewhat how you felt working in that heat...no fun.
Now if I do go ahead and buy a RAV4, or any Toyota I will definitely be careful about ever having it jump started.
NEVER ever buy a FUCKING turdota
Good Diagnosis. Keep up the work. Looking forward for more videos.
After you replaced the fuse, did the charging system try to rechart original battery?
Great video very informative but as a standard rule of thumb you always check the main fuse first nine out of 10 times that's the culprit
After 46 years in auto service I still clearly recall the very first thing that was beaten into my 18 year old brain.
"MAKE" and "BREAK" the NEGATIVE!!!
Worked then. Works now!
What do u mean can u be a bit more specific
@@MrTwisted1977 Sorry, read that as CONNECT and DISCONNECT the negative. The purpose is to prevent the arcing (sparking) that occurs when you do it with the positive terminal. Very worst case I ever saw took out the alternator diodes. ($$$$$$$).
Hope this helps.
@@AAHKLEE thanks me old bute
I am suprised everything worked! Hopefully the fuses took the blunt of the reversed battery jumper leads.
Agree, many thanks from Sweden!
Wow! It’s cool knowing someone across the globe is watching. Thanks!
Good work and good explanation Eric, Thanks man.
Great video sure it will help others. Same thing with an old Mazda protege I had. The red battery terminal cover had turned black & I was in a hurry...hooked it up backwards & had an 80amp fuse blow that looked the same. The bolts got me too😁
Stupid mistake, but lesson learned...I double check the battery marking every time now.
What year model was the mazda protégé?
@@Bajrangiprasadkumar I think 91
@@stephenwgreen78 I got a 95, and a dude jumped my car he put the positive cable on the negative and the negative on the positive and i noticed they were reversed after one minute, and no electronics work only the hazards. Did ur main fuse blow, did you have the same symptoms?
@@Bajrangiprasadkumar it was the main fuse. There's a screw holding it in, so when you swap it don't just yank on it like an idiot (like I did) and break it into a million tiny pieces 😂🤣.
I think it was 80amp or something ridiculous like that, and the bolt/screw was a pain to get to. But pretty simple fix.
@@Bajrangiprasadkumar and I did have the same symptoms... nothing was working
Was really surprised the ECM was not damaged. I guess the 120 A fused saved the ECM ? Thanks.
Great video to mate, Very professional , I was having my toast and coffee while watching :D
great job my freind good trouble shooting very good explanation how to locate the electrical problem thanks a lot hope you go l long way in the future
Just did the same thing on a 07 FJ. Only the alternator itself shorted to ground and caused the 120A to blow.
Replacing the alternator was easy. Getting into the fuse box to get to the 120A took a few hours lol
Escuchando Reggaetón... love it! Good music for work. Lol 😅
Looked like a fun job!
Yes! Haha!
The red and green oiled felt washers are a great idea. Also mark terminals with a red and green paint stick. Batteries are poorly marked. Do not be in a hurry. When you have seen batteries explode in someones face a couple of times you will respect the power in a battery. An old adage: When you are in a hurry you are in danger.
Trouble shooting at its finest, Good job...
Thank you for watching!
Did the dead battery need replacing ?
Great job troubleshooting. 👍🏻
Excellent approach to fixing the problem. Well done!
Another great video. Amazing how you make it look so easy diagnosing whts wrong with the car 🚘.
Great use of the PP I love having one. It’s one of the best purchases I made. Shame when people jump backwards ground is always one right on those plastic batteries. Excellent video man... jay
The person that jumped this car backward was lucky the battery didn't blow up in their face!
Amazed that every electronic module in the vehicle wasn't damaged.
@@bobweiss8682 The ECU computer on some cars is reverse polarity protected , often the main relay that supply's power to many of the accessory's wont close unless the computer commands it to do so.. accessory's that have direct fused power all the time are at risk ..
Had the alternator fuse go on a Hyundai, 120 amp. 2 mins for replacement what were Toyota thinking ?
mazdaman, they were thinking of more ways to keep us Mechanics in the service department busy and making money and also keeping untrained and idiot jury riggers from bypassing that main power feed fuse and frying the whole electrical system, Thanks Toyota, that was a nice $150-$200 job....easy peasy.
They were thinking about get the customer in for something simple and bill him $600.00 for our smrt engineering!
To be fair, of the millions of Toyota cars on the road, how many ever have their main fuse link blow?
Now, if they just made it a push-in fuse, the possibility of a vibration or temperature related arc could cause the link to weld itself to the harness and THAT would be REALLY bad (aka, expensive). I've never blow one or seen one blown, but I"ve never reverse the jumper cable either. :-)
From an electrical standpoint since it is dealing with very high current it is actually a better design to have it bolted because it is a more solid connection and less potential for it come loose over time and develop high resistance which could lead to melting of the terminals.
@@valkyriefrost5301 less than 1%
What a pain....good job I've learned something ..thank you
2017 Rav4 XLE AWD
same story on this end, BATTERY JUMPED BACKWARDS (I know).
Both fuse boxes with blown fuses.
Right hand side fuse box facing the vehicle with a few blown fuses 10A,20A (already replaced).
Left hand side relay/fuse box with the HTR 50A blown.
When I try to installation new 50A as soon it touches the pins/terminals the fuse blown again (already try 3new fuses and same issue.
AC NOT WORKING no air coming out of the vents (hot or cold).
Any suggestions?
And thanks in advance
Where did you get that power tester??? I have same issue but HTR fuse blows immediately after replacing
I had a Toyota Avensis 1998 model (UK built car) and accidently shorted the alternator when opening the engine coolant drain plug located near. This blew the fusible link just like the RAV4. Everything was identical, including dismantling the fuse box. The difference was no other fuse blew. I did the same repair about 9 years ago.
same experience. same symptoms. mirror-image of work
Good diag!!!
Makes me wandering what kind of people work in that dealerships 🙉🙉🙉🙉
Dumb ones.
Dealership techs are ase certified
It’s called “overhead”. Unfortunately, it costs a lot of money in just overhead to run a business with employees. The bigger the building the more $$ it costs, and that trickles down to the customer.
Nice video. I like the way you tracked down the issue.
Handled the job 3 handedly!! LOL!!! Flip the canopy cover upside down so the white faces the sun and reflect more heat away.
Would the diagnosis be similar in the case where the battery terminal is connected in reverse for less than 10 seconds. My car has dash lights but won’t start after connecting the terminals in right order.
Good video ,thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
Nice and thorough, with clear explanations!
Thank you! Good Teaching Skills!
Very informative. Thanks for sharing sir !
Thank you. This is the video I needed. I think. I'll let you know after but everything points to yes.
I hope this video helps
Nice video saved my ass on a customers car
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Same issue on a 2011 Rav4. Tried to diagnose with a multimeter and couldn't figure out why fuses weren't blown but radio, blower, no power, no start but some lights would come on in the dash. Went and got a test light and found out the under hood fuse blocks had power but the interior fuse block had no power. Then looked closer at the 120 amp fuse and it was blown. Then my uncle said "Oh yeah when I was installing the alternator it sparked because I forgot to unhook the battery. " Mannnn that would have saved some time but yeah that bolt in fusible link sucked to change out but it was $4 from auto store.
Great job again like always
This person is extremely lucky nothing was fried. I knew someone who did this and they ended up having to replace the computer and the alternator.
The best way to avoid this in the future is to use color-coded terminals as it looks like this vehicle has the same colored terminals.
Gracias tremendo trabajo bien explicado
Wondering if you could help me out, same happened to me. Jumped off backwards on a Miata and blow the main fuse. Replaced it got it to crank and run but the tail lights, blinkers, interior lights along with the radio didn’t work. Check all the other fuses and nothing was blown not sure what to do?
Nice fix man. Very useful info!
Exact same thing happened to me yesterday in my 2015 Toyota rav4 and the same fuse went out but in your video or comments you said you replaced "some" Fuses were there any others I need to look at cause I think I've looked them all and Couldn't find any other fuses broken? However I pulled the cover off of that view and connected it back together and the car just did a bunch of weird stuff so I'm not sure this is going to work
the battery in my celica was installed with the terminals backwards. the car won’t start up now. any chance is this 120A fuse or am i looking at a new ECU?
Dad did the same thing on 2016 Toyota Avalon hybrid and possibly is the same think?
So the 120 AMP fuse did it job protecting the rest of the electrics.
Given the very high current flow that can pass through a Charging system fuse and the risk of fire from a bad connection to it its the only way to make a solid low Resistance connection is to bolt it to the power buss connections.. The diodes in the alternator allow huge current flow in a reverse polarity connection situation the alternator would burn up in seconds if it were not for the fuse link..
Would this be the same problem/fix on a 2015 toyota corolla ?
Is he the one that cause the main fuse blown ?
Your going to excuse my ignorance but...could i just test continuity between fuse sides with engine off?
Still having the issue of it not working. Any other options? We switched out the 140amp already
I was wiring fog lights and something shorted. Obd dude and radio fuse (i had tapped into 12v+ acc to temp power fog lights) has blown. replaced and radio turns on but now car won’t start no fuel pump prime.. it just cranks. I was doing some troubleshooting and I noticed am2 and efi no 1 don’t have any power. Do you have any idea why ? And should these be powered if the car is on but not started? Thanks
hey whats the tool you used? link?
Fair play every video is a learning experience keep it up,never seen a bolt in fuse b4 lol 🤔
Thank you for helping explain everything
It pays to buy a lithium jump starter these days as the new lithium jump starters have a sensor that won't let the electricity flow if the cables are installed incorrectly. For a $60.00 jump starter its cheap insurance and you don't need a second car if you get stranded in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery. Jump starters pay for themselves even after a single car boost.
If you buy a lithium jump starter buy the ones that can be charged with the 12 volt socket and 120 volt wall socket. The better jump starters will have a regular 400 CCA capability with an instantaneous boost button feature that can provide 700 CCA for batteries that have been totally drained. Since the jump starters are used only once or twice s year I would think that these units should last in excess of 10+ years even if you did 10 boosts a year. They are based on the same lithium ion technology that are used in modern day laptops.
Theyre awesome. used one many times. Jumped my civic. jumped a v8 even.
The best feature on Li-Ion jump packs....their storage ability. I just keep mine under the passenger chair. My old lead acid jump pack was a real pain because there was really no place to store it in my car.
@poor fellow Fancy jumper cables won't work connected backwards either, or some are "auto sensing" and can be connected in any way (but those won't work with a zero volt battery I'm sure) and I'm pretty sure they're cheaper than a lithium jump starter... but then you still need to flag down some idiot to get a jump from...
Agree...I've got one in each car just in case. Fyi, they say disconnect from vehicle after 10seconds & they aren't kidding. Project truck with no battery I left it hooked to the wires checking for fluid leaks...jump pack caught on fire. It can't handle amps into the battery from the alternator. Luckily I saw it blowing up like a balloon & threw it into the yard before it erupted in flames...I really like the truck 😁
A diode in line with a jumper pack cable stops the alternator from charging your pack. It won't help you at all if you reverse your cables...
With todays electronics in cars, I change my cars battery every 4 years
Great video and great work.
my dumbass just tried to jump it backwards just was in a hurry but not in a hurry anymore lol thanks for the video i been pulling on that damn fuse for 20 minutes lmao
I'm confused, why was the power restored after applying power to the box with the probe even though you removed the probe? Does doing that somehow bypass the 120 amp fuse?
Tyler h I suspect he excited the alternator and now the alternator was supplying voltage to the fuse block.
@@greggdevlin8686 I don't think that the alternator has a direct feed to the fuse box? Pretty sure it feeds the battery which feeds the box. Either way, if it does feed the box then it seems odd that it would go through a different fuse...
know someone in the late 80's who tried to jump start their car - managed to short the positive connection to the metal casing of the ECU which was located right next to the battery - one bang and a shower of sparks later was left with a very dead ECU. From memory a replacement ECU cost him around £500 and that was with a big discount from another friend who worked at the dealer (would be around £1400 today taking inflation into account)
My 2009 Corolla was jumped incorrectly. The charger car's battery neg went to my pos and the charger car's pos went to my chassis ground. It's weird. My Corollas horn sounded, like a warning of reversed polarity. I've never jumped it wrong so it startled me. Next I had several blown fuses. AM1(7.5a), AM2 no 2(7.5a), and a few 10A fuses like the radio. Replaced both 7.5a fuses and hot it to start, but then died and the fuses popped again. I don't know what's up
Could you do the same thing with a test light?
Good morning this is my first Time to watch your video i really love this am electrician also and still Working on air conditionner but am still looking for job ooo if possible for you to help me i will like to work with if possible thanks.
My brother borrowed my car to jump-start his car and got the cables crossed and it blew a hole in the side of his battery. I was just glad it wasn't mine.
Very valuable info friend, thank you!
You're funny. Didn't you notice some fuses had 11V while others had 14V? The 11V ones were tied to the battery. The 14V ones were tied to the alternator. What you did with the power probe was activate the alternator. When the engine was killed the alternator shut down thus the 14V went away.
He indeed energised the alternator. Still did a decent job though.
Nice video, very helpful
Thank you for watching!