FINALLY! A video showing a more realistic method of using foam. I can't figure out all these folks building with 2x4 studs. LOL. It's tiny little trains, not a structure! I love the idea of the foam to create the 'framing' and easy access. The Foam should be more than enough of a platform on it's own with some minimal bracing. Great to find this video. Brings home the ideas I was thinking about in my head. Seeing it done firms up my next steps. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much for this detailed construction video. Very informative and helpful. I know it's a done deal now, but you might want to reconsider using that abrasive bar to clean track after painting as it puts scratches in the railhead that will contribute to dirt build-up during operations. Lastly, I was very impressed by your torch use to solder rail sections together. Most impressive! I look forward to the next installment in this series.
I have never seen someone use Foam Board as a base for a layout before. I like how you have hidden the layers as well as you do. Most of the time I have seen layers of foam, looking like Layers of Foam!
Dear Dave, for the soldering with the torch and the protection of any underground, you should take a look at either Ridgid’s or Rothenberger’s Shield Guard. Absolutely agree on the efficacy of the torch compared to the soldering iron. On filing soldering tips. Manufacturers actually state such practice lowers the effectiveness of the tip. However, I must admit, I’m guilty too. For a real dirty tip, rubbing it hot on an alum stone also helps cleaning the gunk off. Such alum stones are still used by zinc layers to clean off their torch lit soldering irons. Especially when soldering older zinc to new, the necessary flux will bite into the copper sole. Which will of course affect soldering performance.
suggestion they make a pencell torch with a sordering iron tip smalle like larg fount pen size heats tip no open flame I think the one I had was less then 50 $ that was in 80's so memory is weak on cost but below that got it in eletrinc stor it was desined for emercie repairs away from electry thaat way less chance Of buring foam
Nice progress. The trick to screw the XPS together is great. Thought I don't think that it will work with the EPS I use (so I always need to put some weight on it after gluing).
Hi David Are you going to put a thin ply wood or similar around the edges to protect the foam edges when it is moved or from other knocks. I appreciate it needs to be light weight for transport but those foam edges are going to need some protection from accidental damage. Can't wait to see what the spooky effects are going to look and sound like. I dangerously assume that the train will trigger them rather than push buttons regards John
Im building an indoor g scale layout , i did the open grid benchwork, should i use the foam or plywood, the locos can get very heavy . I probably would use two layers of 2 inch foam
Have you thought of using one of those art projectors to transfer the plans to the board? That would be a lot less hassle and more accurate. Just a thought. Going to start my layout soon, and that'll likely be my MO.
I have a lot of experience with those art projectors from the old days. In fact I have one in the studio. Trying to get the exact correct focal length so that everything is properly in scale with no parallax distortion would be quite a challenge. The board to be cut would need to be perfectly flat against a wall somewhere in a darkened room with the projector perfectly aligned at the perfect distance. That sound like quite a bit more of a hassle than the way I did it, but your mileage may vary.
@@ThunderMesaStudio Yeah true. Guess it depends on what hurdles we each are willing to jump. Either way, your method is certainly working, so that's what counts!
Now that trains are running on this new layout, do you notice much difference in train noise volume with the track directly on the foam versus cork roadbed you have elsewhere?
That would be interesting to know. But the thickness of the foam is also very important. On some hidden tracks, I only have one layer of EPS, and it's very noisy, the rest of the layout is at least two layers, and it's dead silence (with foam roadbed for both).
Hey Bill I bought myself one of those fancy resistance soildering unit would this be safe to use when soldiering the track together when building on form?
A normal good soldering station at 80W should also not have problem for code 100 or even a bit more tracks. Resistance soldering may be more needed at larger scales.
Just a warning, Micro Engineering is kind of out of business / up for sale and their stuff is coming hard to find. Hopefully you have all the track you need.
FINALLY! A video showing a more realistic method of using foam. I can't figure out all these folks building with 2x4 studs. LOL. It's tiny little trains, not a structure! I love the idea of the foam to create the 'framing' and easy access. The Foam should be more than enough of a platform on it's own with some minimal bracing. Great to find this video. Brings home the ideas I was thinking about in my head. Seeing it done firms up my next steps. Thanks for sharing.
Sure is coming along great.
I love how you incorporate foam into making the layout "benchwork" too.
Brother, you have some serious skillz.
Fantastic…..I also am building on foam and learned a few things and some “oh snap’s” as well!!!!🥴
I've been waiting eagerly for the follow up videos on Gruesome Gulch !!
Thanks so much for this detailed construction video. Very informative and helpful. I know it's a done deal now, but you might want to reconsider using that abrasive bar to clean track after painting as it puts scratches in the railhead that will contribute to dirt build-up during operations. Lastly, I was very impressed by your torch use to solder rail sections together. Most impressive! I look forward to the next installment in this series.
I have never seen someone use Foam Board as a base for a layout before. I like how you have hidden the layers as well as you do. Most of the time I have seen layers of foam, looking like Layers of Foam!
This was so much fun to watch. I love a good build can't wait for the next one. You gave me some good idea's.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Thanks special for sharing your details video as great watching every time and joys
You're giving me some great ideas for my Halloween layout! Thanks!!! 💀👻
You could put handles on the bottom for pall-bearers
You might look at picking up a drywall square, that will make keeping those long cuts across the foam a lot easier. Love what you are doing.
I have one, just didn't use it.
Some interesting tips and techniques, great video!
Absolutely gorgeous 3D thinking!
“Up here, I’m already there!”
(Kramer:)
Dear Dave, for the soldering with the torch and the protection of any underground, you should take a look at either Ridgid’s or Rothenberger’s Shield Guard.
Absolutely agree on the efficacy of the torch compared to the soldering iron.
On filing soldering tips. Manufacturers actually state such practice lowers the effectiveness of the tip. However, I must admit, I’m guilty too.
For a real dirty tip, rubbing it hot on an alum stone also helps cleaning the gunk off.
Such alum stones are still used by zinc layers to clean off their torch lit soldering irons. Especially when soldering older zinc to new, the necessary flux will bite into the copper sole. Which will of course affect soldering performance.
A very interesting idea for the construction of a model railway system.
Amazing Dave, Always AMazing!
suggestion they make a pencell torch with a sordering iron tip smalle like larg fount pen size heats tip no open flame I think the one I had was less then 50 $ that was in 80's so memory is weak on cost but below that got it in eletrinc stor it was desined for emercie repairs away from electry thaat way less chance Of buring foam
Awesome.
Absolutely brilliant and inspiring!!!
I'm suprised you can get that pink foam in Az
Nice progress. The trick to screw the XPS together is great. Thought I don't think that it will work with the EPS I use (so I always need to put some weight on it after gluing).
Hi David
Are you going to put a thin ply wood or similar around the edges to protect the foam edges when it is moved or from other knocks.
I appreciate it needs to be light weight for transport but those foam edges are going to need some protection from accidental damage.
Can't wait to see what the spooky effects are going to look and sound like.
I dangerously assume that the train will trigger them rather than push buttons
regards John
Yes indeed
Im building an indoor g scale layout , i did the open grid benchwork, should i use the foam or plywood, the locos can get very heavy . I probably would use two layers of 2 inch foam
The 2" foam could work. I'd probably use plywood to be on the safe side.
Have you thought of using one of those art projectors to transfer the plans to the board? That would be a lot less hassle and more accurate. Just a thought.
Going to start my layout soon, and that'll likely be my MO.
I have a lot of experience with those art projectors from the old days. In fact I have one in the studio. Trying to get the exact correct focal length so that everything is properly in scale with no parallax distortion would be quite a challenge. The board to be cut would need to be perfectly flat against a wall somewhere in a darkened room with the projector perfectly aligned at the perfect distance. That sound like quite a bit more of a hassle than the way I did it, but your mileage may vary.
@@ThunderMesaStudio Yeah true. Guess it depends on what hurdles we each are willing to jump. Either way, your method is certainly working, so that's what counts!
Now that trains are running on this new layout, do you notice much difference in train noise volume with the track directly on the foam versus cork roadbed you have elsewhere?
That would be interesting to know.
But the thickness of the foam is also very important. On some hidden tracks, I only have one layer of EPS, and it's very noisy, the rest of the layout is at least two layers, and it's dead silence (with foam roadbed for both).
I haven't noticed any difference.
@@ThunderMesaStudio Good to know, thanks!
how do you mount your switch machines to the foam board i was thinking i needed to put 1/8 ply to mount the machines to
Hey Bill I bought myself one of those fancy resistance soildering unit would this be safe to use when soldiering the track together when building on form?
A normal good soldering station at 80W should also not have problem for code 100 or even a bit more tracks. Resistance soldering may be more needed at larger scales.
Just a warning, Micro Engineering is kind of out of business / up for sale and their stuff is coming hard to find. Hopefully you have all the track you need.
RIP headphones