Designing and Building a Sailing Canoe - Part 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2022
- In this video I document the design and build of the rudder case.
I wanted a portable sailing dinghy that would be quick to rig, car toppable, and would double as a kayak (in fact a double kayak). In this video series I document the build so you can build one too!
The boat was designed for the choppy conditions on Port Phillip bay, and is a hybrid of the Sabre and the Viola sailing canoe (by Michael Storer), but is built in the style of the Huntington Harbour Kayak (by Spira boats). I also took some advice from the helpful experts at The Wooden Boat Forum.
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I remember the moment cutting the hole in the foredeck for the mast on my boat, hoping it was all calculated correctly!
Really like your approach to building your s.c. I built a 14ft canoe during lockdown with intension of turning it into a s.c. Unfortunately it was so heavy when finished I couldn't lift it on my own, so I chopped 4ft of the middle, epoxied it back together and used it as a 10ft canoe. The mistake I made was using 6mm marine ply from a building supply store which was very dense, I still want to make a s.c. but would use 4mm ply instead.
Spot on. I used 4mm and it was plenty tough. Especially if you fibreglass the base.
Mine still came out heavier than I wanted, so I am looking into where I can cut weight (the transom is way too thick for eg). I underestimated how much weight paint and epoxy add. I also found that when dropping the sail the boat is completely full with the spars and sail material, which makes it hard to paddle. I will probably remove the side flotation tanks and add a rear one instead, to free up some space for the sail.
@Lee Melbourne I gained quite a bit of weight with for n aft buoyancy tanks. It still made a nice canoe which tracks very well through the water, this is probably due to its weight. I would like to build a Viola 14, but I think it would be too heavy for solo use.
I do the same, my home office is filled at the moment with dagger board and other centre case elements to let the epoxy cure in room temperature:) did get cold in Melbourne. Can I ask what dark timber did you used for the foils? It looks good. Painful lesson learned, hope you get better soon. Thanks for sharing.
I just used alternating pine and hardwood (tas oak) from bunnings. My house is currently filled with an oversize tarp and the spars. Trying to work out my sail size.
@@leemelbourne3297 If it helps my boat it 3.5m long and 1.2m wide at gunnels (about 1m wide at water line) and I am using 5.3m2 balanced lug. It does moves nicely, does keep the pace with Sabres on a lazy cruise (up to 10knt wind) and I seat inside not on a gunnels. I wouldn't put anything bigger than that on my dinghy. Had once sprit sail and jib with total of 6.5m2 but on a gusty day was way overpowered. The beauty of balanced lug is that you can easily put a reef or two.
@@krzysztofzemski291 Thanks very much for the info! i laid out the tarp last night and the sail I came up with is much the same area. 2.5 m foot, 3.5 leech. I am trying to keep centre of effort low, but that pushes it backward, so I hope the centreboard is far enough back to match. (Though I did allow for tilt in the case). My boat is quite a bit smaller, so if it is overpowered I can either reef or put the sail back on the sewing machine. That is the point of a tarp sail I guess - to test thins out and refine.
@@leemelbourne3297 Tarp sails are great for testing, I put together 4m2 blue tarp sail in one day. It feel that dinghy could take bit more so when I was ordering a proper dacron kit from Sealrite I went with 5.3m2 (my wife sew it for me). You can play with the halyard attachment on to the yard so the sail it will move forward or backward to some limit. That is how I was trying to get my CE right.