Stumbled on this. The fingerboard sloping across to the bass side, is actually a *deliberate* thing which small scale luthiers have been practicing since forever. The idea is, that once the action at the 2 "Es" is the correct height above 12th fret, the overall plane/curve of the strings, will be parallel to the top, not sloping up towards the player, which is thought to provide the optimal shape for the hand, rather than sloping from bass to treble. I think that classical makers were first to do this. I have noticed it is there on all the Eastmans I've owned, and was impressed, because I considered it a deliberate touch, very unusual on mass produced guitars (ok hand-made, but mass produced in terms of product numbers). Cheers, from a Once Upon a Time guitar maker 🙂
Thanks for your thoughts on this. I must say I haven’t noticed this slope on my other Eastmans. What I do notice is the whole fretboard drops down a little after it joins the body, I guess to help keep the action from getting too low up there. The drop away on the E3DE is pronounced enough that the saddle on the low E side is a tad lover than on the high e side. Another Eastman owner commented he had one with the same ‘issue’. Perhaps it is something Dana Bourgeois brought to the table, along with the slightly smaller body dimensions on the R3. By the way the guitar is being kept in its case with a humidity bag and is is sounding very good.
Came across this video by accident. I have just bought an E3OME with the same angle issue. It was a lightly used model that arrived with a very high low E string. Fixed now but surprising since other Eastmans I’ve bought have been perfect and very well set up.
Hi Roland, wow, another E3 with similar issue!! The good thing is, having adjusted the saddle, my guitar plays fine on the low strings without any buzzing. I really like the tone of the ovangkal and sitka. Are you happy with yours apart from the fretboard angle?
@@turrafirmaguitarchannel Hi! My E3OME plays very well now that I have adjusted it. Sounds very good too although it feels like it needs some playing-in. It sounds a lot better than my perfectly made AC308CE-LTD. However my favourite is my (also perfectly made) AC122-2CE which is the cedar topped one. I agree with the other comment from SerenityNow. I think manufacturers are rushing to get instruments out after the break over covid. I also have a brand new Yamaha LS16 which is really so bad I’m trying to send it back for a refund.
@@RolandN That’s a nice collection! I tried a 308 limited with the slotted headstock but I returned it when I discovered the pickup output was way out of balance between strings. I am getting an Eastman T486 electric now instead 🫣. Re the E3, mine was not super impressive when it was new but the sound keeps improving and it keeps sounding fuller and richer all the time.
If your guitar is intonated properly, or even just if that saddle is compensated, you should be very cautious taking material off the top, it's generally going to be a better idea to adjust the height by taking material off the bottom.
Hi Avenged, 100% agree with you - I usually sand the bottom of the saddle down and leave the way the saddle has been intonated alone. However in this case, because I wanted to leave the height of the high e string unchanged, I worked from the top.
Update: hadn't watched whole thing before commenting re f'board. Am I right to think you go for the same measured action at both Es ? Most folk have a higher action at the bass side. If anyone goes for an equal action all over, then the sloping f'board trick doesn't work.
Why not try Yamaha FG830 ? A £800-£1000 for less than £400. Have you ever played one ? Quality & Excellence always consistent. I was very impressed 🇬🇧 🤫😉🤫😉😌
Hi Martin, funny you should recommend Yamaha, I am right now paying off a Yamaha LL16 which I came across at my local music store here in Turramurra. The FG830 looks about the same shape but has laminated back and sides. It sells here for A$569. I got the LL16 for $900. I am looking forward to comparing this with my Eastmans. It sounded great in the shop and I imagine the FG830 would use similar bracing and same quality build. Regards Nick
Stumbled on this.
The fingerboard sloping across to the bass side, is actually a *deliberate* thing which small scale luthiers have been practicing since forever.
The idea is, that once the action at the 2 "Es" is the correct height above 12th fret, the overall plane/curve of the strings, will be parallel to the top, not sloping up towards the player, which is thought to provide the optimal shape for the hand, rather than sloping from bass to treble.
I think that classical makers were first to do this.
I have noticed it is there on all the Eastmans I've owned, and was impressed, because I considered it a deliberate touch, very unusual on mass produced guitars (ok hand-made, but mass produced in terms of product numbers).
Cheers, from a Once Upon a Time guitar maker 🙂
Thanks for your thoughts on this. I must say I haven’t noticed this slope on my other Eastmans. What I do notice is the whole fretboard drops down a little after it joins the body, I guess to help keep the action from getting too low up there. The drop away on the E3DE is pronounced enough that the saddle on the low E side is a tad lover than on the high e side. Another Eastman owner commented he had one with the same ‘issue’. Perhaps it is something Dana Bourgeois brought to the table, along with the slightly smaller body dimensions on the R3. By the way the guitar is being kept in its case with a humidity bag and is is sounding very good.
Came across this video by accident. I have just bought an E3OME with the same angle issue. It was a lightly used model that arrived with a very high low E string. Fixed now but surprising since other Eastmans I’ve bought have been perfect and very well set up.
Hi Roland, wow, another E3 with similar issue!! The good thing is, having adjusted the saddle, my guitar plays fine on the low strings without any buzzing. I really like the tone of the ovangkal and sitka. Are you happy with yours apart from the fretboard angle?
@@turrafirmaguitarchannel Hi! My E3OME plays very well now that I have adjusted it. Sounds very good too although it feels like it needs some playing-in. It sounds a lot better than my perfectly made AC308CE-LTD. However my favourite is my (also perfectly made) AC122-2CE which is the cedar topped one. I agree with the other comment from SerenityNow. I think manufacturers are rushing to get instruments out after the break over covid. I also have a brand new Yamaha LS16 which is really so bad I’m trying to send it back for a refund.
@@RolandN That’s a nice collection! I tried a 308 limited with the slotted headstock but I returned it when I discovered the pickup output was way out of balance between strings. I am getting an Eastman T486 electric now instead 🫣. Re the E3, mine was not super impressive when it was new but the sound keeps improving and it keeps sounding fuller and richer all the time.
If your guitar is intonated properly, or even just if that saddle is compensated, you should be very cautious taking material off the top, it's generally going to be a better idea to adjust the height by taking material off the bottom.
Hi Avenged, 100% agree with you - I usually sand the bottom of the saddle down and leave the way the saddle has been intonated alone. However in this case, because I wanted to leave the height of the high e string unchanged, I worked from the top.
Killer bro!!!
Update: hadn't watched whole thing before commenting re f'board.
Am I right to think you go for the same measured action at both Es ?
Most folk have a higher action at the bass side. If anyone goes for an equal action all over, then the sloping f'board trick doesn't work.
Hi, I go for 6/64 on low e and 5/64 or a bit less on high e. On this E3D this has resulted in the saddle being about level on both sides.
Why not try Yamaha FG830 ? A £800-£1000 for less than £400. Have you ever played one ? Quality & Excellence always consistent. I was very impressed 🇬🇧 🤫😉🤫😉😌
Hi Martin, funny you should recommend Yamaha, I am right now paying off a Yamaha LL16 which I came across at my local music store here in Turramurra. The FG830 looks about the same shape but has laminated back and sides. It sells here for A$569. I got the LL16 for $900. I am looking forward to comparing this with my Eastmans. It sounded great in the shop and I imagine the FG830 would use similar bracing and same quality build. Regards Nick
@@turrafirmaguitarchannel Only thing is that the Yamaha FG nuts are 43mm which for me is a little narrow.
@@turrafirmaguitarchannelhow do they compare? Do you still have both guitars?