I've been doing this for over 50 years, with 50/50 acid core solder and an American Beauty 175 watt angle iron with a round point. It works especially well when working on thin sheetmetal that will warp from welding !! A company called Steck that makes "pull rods", for autobody work for pulling dents out by hand. Example -- clean to bare metal. 1. Drill 1/8" holes along the crease. 2. Use "pull rod hooks" to pull the dent level with the surface. 3. Use larger drill bit to chanfer or. Bevel the holes. Don't make the holes larger or the solder WON'T bridge the gap ! 4. Use 50/50 acid core solder. 5. And at least 175 watt. Soldering iron or larger. DONE !! Clean area with baking soda and water then lacquer thinner, then sand, Bondo or primer.
Thanks for the comment. I prefer to use acid free solder. If any acid remains the area will rust again. Baking soda is a good way to get rid of any remaining acid if you use it. I think in Germany acid free solder is the standart now. Not only because of the rust issue but because of health and enviroment issues. That's why no lead or other toxic metals are allowed in any solder. I have never seen someone pull out dents that way. I used a spot welder. This machine will weld a small metal strip or hook to the sheet metal. A slide hammer is used to form the sheet metal back. The strip is removed and you grind away the small spot where the weld was. This is faster and you don't need to create and close holes in the sheet metal.
That's why i said it in the video. A normal soldering iron is way too weak. Mine has about 500W. I have a similar one with 250W and it's still too weak to get a proper result. A butan torch would do the job but it's harder to control and maybe overheat the area if you are not careful.
Excellent how-to video. Thank you.
I've been doing this for over 50 years, with 50/50 acid core solder and an American Beauty 175 watt angle iron with a round point.
It works especially well when working on thin sheetmetal that will warp from welding !!
A company called Steck that makes "pull rods", for autobody work for pulling dents out by hand.
Example -- clean to bare metal.
1. Drill 1/8" holes along the crease.
2. Use "pull rod hooks" to pull the dent level with the surface.
3. Use larger drill bit to chanfer or. Bevel the holes. Don't make the holes larger or the solder WON'T bridge the gap !
4. Use 50/50 acid core solder.
5. And at least 175 watt. Soldering iron or larger.
DONE !!
Clean area with baking soda and water then lacquer thinner, then sand, Bondo or primer.
Thanks for the comment. I prefer to use acid free solder. If any acid remains the area will rust again. Baking soda is a good way to get rid of any remaining acid if you use it. I think in Germany acid free solder is the standart now. Not only because of the rust issue but because of health and enviroment issues. That's why no lead or other toxic metals are allowed in any solder.
I have never seen someone pull out dents that way. I used a spot welder. This machine will weld a small metal strip or hook to the sheet metal. A slide hammer is used to form the sheet metal back. The strip is removed and you grind away the small spot where the weld was. This is faster and you don't need to create and close holes in the sheet metal.
How did you plan to fill the bigger holes? Thank you for the video
the same as welding, cut biger pach and then salder in place
So much better than bondo.
Now you know someone, somewhere is going to try this with a 40w soldiering iron.... lmao! They won't understand your iron is what, 1000watts???
That's why i said it in the video. A normal soldering iron is way too weak. Mine has about 500W. I have a similar one with 250W and it's still too weak to get a proper result. A butan torch would do the job but it's harder to control and maybe overheat the area if you are not careful.
@@basementprojects4712 You can also get those butane ligher/torches that are really like a large cigarette lighter to.
Habla español
Si
Contesta en español
😎😎😎
El cautín es eléctrico
El cautín es eléctrico
El cautín es eléctrico
El cautín es eléctrico