I talked to the tech support and they said that the low level is for RCA low signal and the high level is for the actual speaker wires and that you should not pair both low and high level wires together.
PAC was useless to help me, glad my video helped you! That's why I made it! I still don't know if I did it right, but my system sounds amazing so I'm not going to ruin a good thing.
This is exactly what I'm doing right now. I only get Subwoofer, and Trunk speakers. No doors. this is exactly what I go, when I tried WITHOUT this adapter. I've tried highs, lows, both.... No luck. Any ideas? Also, am I supposed to get some kind of LIGHTS on the adapater?
***** Yes, the speakers say BOSE on them, I've even removed the Subwoofer recently, to repair the BCM. The SUB is pounding away, and the ceiling speakers are live, but, nothing else. No Front or rear Door. If the SUB is working, does that mean the AMP is on? I'm trying to determine if the AMP is running or not....
UPDATE: Hooked up a speaker to the output of the PAC, and got no sound. I tried front and rear wires, no sound. Though my Ceiling sound works, so SOMETHING is comming through the pack. I am very confused. About 15 hours on this since yesterday. Perhaps the AMP is bad, but, endless hours taking apart the truck, and have not found it yet. perhaps the PAC is defective? No clue. I suppose the BOSE amp works, since the subwoofer is on.
Gregg Cerenzio I'm no expert, but from what I understand the amp is behind the glove box under the dash. But it sounds like there is something else messed up in your system.
This video is old and I dont know if youre still active on TH-cam but regardless. In your opinion, did the quality of the sound improve after hooking up this unit? I have the exact same vehicle and I'm putting in a massive subwoofer. I have speakers I can put in but If I can have enough high end to keep up with the sub I will keep the stock stuff.
I’m still around. :) I’ve found my system has more than enough bass for my ideal sound profile. I’ve actually used the sub controls inside my new deck (not entirely sure they work with this set up...but they do change the bass, just not sure if they only adjust the sub ) and the equalizer to turn the bass down. Between the rear sub and the door woofers I think most people would call it good enough. My Denali is also wired for subs (easy to do via the holes in the carpet below the second row seating and driver’s seat), and I have a pair from my previous car, but I’ve never bothered to put them in. If you turn up the treble I think you’ll find enough high end, there are tweeters in the front and rear columns, as well as mids (they act more like tweeters) in the center console where the drivers right knee would hit (passenger’s left knee also, obviously).
Thanks for the input. I definatly want more bass (putting in a sundown zv5 12 that the wife got me for Christmas) but it sounds like the mids and highs might just be able to keep up. Definatly worth a try. I'm all about after market but 1 thing the car audio industry hasn't been able to deliver on is a surround sound system. I never understood how virtually all premium stock systems are built to be surround and then all you get with after market is 2.1. All in all thank you for your comment I'll post here when I done and let you know if the stock system can keep up with 2000 watts of bass!
Cool, for sure let me know how it goes. Have you replaced the alternator yet? All that electric drag might put out a 20 year old alternator :). I actually replaced mine last year, it’s a pretty simple replacement though, right on top of the motor. :)
Christopher Pratt the PAC unit acts as the harness. you connect the wires from the front of the PAC unit to the corresponding wires on the back of your new stereo. Then the back of the PAC unit plugs into the vehicle's existing harness, which then goes down to the BOSE amp, which is then distributed to all the speakers.
@@tokiwartooth2661 it connects to the pink wire on the dead 9 pin connector. Got that info from crutchfield. You have to cut it off the connector and splice it to the blue and white wire for the amp to power properly.
Robert Mace there is a wiring guide that comes with the deck that will tell you which color wire is for which function. Back left positive cable might be orange and white, while the back left negative cable could be orange and blue. So I matched those up with the PAC adapter's back left speaker wires, but the problem was there were too many wires on the adapter (3 for the back left speaker, one high positive, one low positive, and one negative, in this example) but only 2 wires for the back left speaker from the new deck (one positive, and one negative). So I wasn't sure what to do with that third wire (high positive or low positive?), and this video shows what I did to overcome that. BUT there is another comment on this video where someone explains which wire to use according to which deck you are connecting. Again, I'm no expert, I just made the video to show what I did and what was working for me, and to start a discussion about to add these adapters to these older Bose enabled vehicles.
Actually you didn't do it according to the instructions. The low level speaker wires are used for head units up to 25W per channel, and the high level wires are used for higher power head units, like a 4x50 W.
You are not suppose to wire both low and high to the same output speaker wire from the head unit. You are suppose to choose between the low and the high. 0-25 watts choose low higher than 25 choose high. Make sure the blue / White wire is connected to the head unit amp control wire or antenna wire. if you dont have either connect it to the accessory power wire (turns hot when key is turned to on or vehicle started). If you still have issues with no sound consider that you have the pots turned up to high and may need to turn them down. Each test turn vehicle completely off and then back on to reset. Also make sure volume is down when you are first testing. This was my problem. I had the pots turned up too high and the volume was up too high on start up which the module's protection circuit takes over and does not turn on the amp or does not give output audio signal.
This is the best video ive seen for this pac unit. Mine is a Nissan but it should still help me. Thanks!!!
You're welcome!
I talked to the tech support and they said that the low level is for RCA low signal and the high level is for the actual speaker wires and that you should not pair both low and high level wires together.
You sir saved me so much time and aggravation
PAC was useless to help me, glad my video helped you! That's why I made it! I still don't know if I did it right, but my system sounds amazing so I'm not going to ruin a good thing.
This is exactly what I'm doing right now. I only get Subwoofer, and Trunk speakers. No doors. this is exactly what I go, when I tried WITHOUT this adapter. I've tried highs, lows, both.... No luck. Any ideas? Also, am I supposed to get some kind of LIGHTS on the adapater?
Gregg Cerenzio Maybe you have a problem with those speakers or your BOSE amp? Are you sure you have a BOSE system?
***** Yes, the speakers say BOSE on them, I've even removed the Subwoofer recently, to repair the BCM. The SUB is pounding away, and the ceiling speakers are live, but, nothing else. No Front or rear Door. If the SUB is working, does that mean the AMP is on? I'm trying to determine if the AMP is running or not....
***** Did you have to do anything with the "Pink" wire I'm always hearing about?
UPDATE: Hooked up a speaker to the output of the PAC, and got no sound. I tried front and rear wires, no sound. Though my Ceiling sound works, so SOMETHING is comming through the pack. I am very confused. About 15 hours on this since yesterday. Perhaps the AMP is bad, but, endless hours taking apart the truck, and have not found it yet. perhaps the PAC is defective? No clue. I suppose the BOSE amp works, since the subwoofer is on.
Gregg Cerenzio I'm no expert, but from what I understand the amp is behind the glove box under the dash. But it sounds like there is something else messed up in your system.
This video is old and I dont know if youre still active on TH-cam but regardless. In your opinion, did the quality of the sound improve after hooking up this unit? I have the exact same vehicle and I'm putting in a massive subwoofer. I have speakers I can put in but If I can have enough high end to keep up with the sub I will keep the stock stuff.
I’m still around. :) I’ve found my system has more than enough bass for my ideal sound profile. I’ve actually used the sub controls inside my new deck (not entirely sure they work with this set up...but they do change the bass, just not sure if they only adjust the sub ) and the equalizer to turn the bass down. Between the rear sub and the door woofers I think most people would call it good enough. My Denali is also wired for subs (easy to do via the holes in the carpet below the second row seating and driver’s seat), and I have a pair from my previous car, but I’ve never bothered to put them in. If you turn up the treble I think you’ll find enough high end, there are tweeters in the front and rear columns, as well as mids (they act more like tweeters) in the center console where the drivers right knee would hit (passenger’s left knee also, obviously).
Thanks for the input. I definatly want more bass (putting in a sundown zv5 12 that the wife got me for Christmas) but it sounds like the mids and highs might just be able to keep up. Definatly worth a try. I'm all about after market but 1 thing the car audio industry hasn't been able to deliver on is a surround sound system. I never understood how virtually all premium stock systems are built to be surround and then all you get with after market is 2.1.
All in all thank you for your comment I'll post here when I done and let you know if the stock system can keep up with 2000 watts of bass!
Cool, for sure let me know how it goes. Have you replaced the alternator yet? All that electric drag might put out a 20 year old alternator :). I actually replaced mine last year, it’s a pretty simple replacement though, right on top of the motor. :)
@@mrjchristensen1 I'm puting in a 370 billet from mechman and replacing the battery with an optima yellow top. I'll let you know how everything sounds
Thanks for the video. Really helped me out. One Question. What did you hook the Blue and white amp trigger to?
I can't remember. I feel like I didn't have that question though, so maybe the crap PAC instructions said something about that?
did you find out were that trigger wire went too ??
I think I hooked it up to the ignition. I have to look at the wiring to be sure. I will post it back. Do you not know too?
The trigger is for power antenna but it also triggers the factory amp.
Okay so connect the three together ?
Does this come with the harness you need to connect the new stereo to the car or do I have to buy a separate harness
Christopher Pratt the PAC unit acts as the harness. you connect the wires from the front of the PAC unit to the corresponding wires on the back of your new stereo. Then the back of the PAC unit plugs into the vehicle's existing harness, which then goes down to the BOSE amp, which is then distributed to all the speakers.
does anyone know whefe the trigger amp wire connects too
David Guajardo I have that same problem right now
@@tokiwartooth2661 it connects to the pink wire on the dead 9 pin connector. Got that info from crutchfield. You have to cut it off the connector and splice it to the blue and white wire for the amp to power properly.
Ya I'm not to sure I read the Manuel but doesn't say anything about it if your aftermarket stereo does not come with those wires.
soo you connected the solid white with the white/red (adapter side) too solid white (radio pioneer side) and so on with the rest of wires?
Robert Mace there is a wiring guide that comes with the deck that will tell you which color wire is for which function. Back left positive cable might be orange and white, while the back left negative cable could be orange and blue. So I matched those up with the PAC adapter's back left speaker wires, but the problem was there were too many wires on the adapter (3 for the back left speaker, one high positive, one low positive, and one negative, in this example) but only 2 wires for the back left speaker from the new deck (one positive, and one negative). So I wasn't sure what to do with that third wire (high positive or low positive?), and this video shows what I did to overcome that. BUT there is another comment on this video where someone explains which wire to use according to which deck you are connecting. Again, I'm no expert, I just made the video to show what I did and what was working for me, and to start a discussion about to add these adapters to these older Bose enabled vehicles.
I got it to work last night your video helped me lol was pretty simple
Actually you didn't do it according to the instructions. The low level speaker wires are used for head units up to 25W per channel, and the high level wires are used for higher power head units, like a 4x50 W.
Hello I know this is an old comment so my JVC says 50x4 maximum / 22rms x 4 so what would I use the high or low?
I did he same thing and im not getting any sound. I have no idea whats goin on. Anybody have the same thing?
Isaak Enns yes. I think it’s because the pac harness has an amp trigger wire but the harness from my radio doesn’t? Idk what to do
You are not suppose to wire both low and high to the same output speaker wire from the head unit. You are suppose to choose between the low and the high. 0-25 watts choose low higher than 25 choose high. Make sure the blue / White wire is connected to the head unit amp control wire or antenna wire. if you dont have either connect it to the accessory power wire (turns hot when key is turned to on or vehicle started). If you still have issues with no sound consider that you have the pots turned up to high and may need to turn them down. Each test turn vehicle completely off and then back on to reset. Also make sure volume is down when you are first testing. This was my problem. I had the pots turned up too high and the volume was up too high on start up which the module's protection circuit takes over and does not turn on the amp or does not give output audio signal.