Enjoying the series up to know after having minis in my youth and now having a basket case city e and an RSP cooper. Good stuff Keith enjoying watching
This side of the pond, we would is that it was a "Shade tree mechanic." I would say that someone was trying to dump the problems off on the next bloke. It's great that you care about those great little cars.. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi . Davejaguar has shown this sort of repair. In my opinion remove the rear bins. it makes it accessible and allows the cill full length on the outside . rgds Don
Very informative video. I still have the original cills on my 81 mini but, I am worried about 1 of the rear offside subframe bolts. The heel board looked okay when I had the subframe off. However, I think the captive nuts will need doing at some point so, I am looking forward to the repair in that area.
Hi Keith why do people do this type of thing on classic cars, it great to see someone doing it correctly and how it should be done even if it going to take a considerably longer to complete , great work mate.
When 2 flat surfaces are laid against each other ,the water is almost sucked into the gap..capillary attraction. Lay a credit card on the kitchen worktop and add a few drops of water to the edge and the water will spread thru the mating faces. Protect the faces of the car with paint that can be welded thru. Cars steel and water. It's going to happen. I really think that regular checks for chipped paint and spraying stone chip guard are the best things you can do. Rgds Don
I can't understand people doing this thing, bodgeing patches on top of rusty originals. On my Mk1 I restored, patches had been gas welded and brazed on top of the rot in several places. The gas welding had obviously led to burning off the paint from the inside of the panels, that had been repaired. Which in turn had enhanced the rot massively since it were never re-painted!
Hi Keith, i suppose on one hand that it's no surprise to find rust etc underneath the sills, and a shame to find dodgy patches with dodgy welding. Just as well it's in your hands Keith, and will be repaired properly hey. Guess you could find the same on the other side hey?? Great stuff as always 😊
Hi Keith not much you can say about that sill removal really, concerning that people are having work done on their minis and cosmetically it looks ok but the reality is a different story. Great video nice to see more progress though I’m sure you’ve got the feeling of one step forward, two steps back. Whoever buys this car is going to know it’s sound. Great Work Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
Hi Keith, great channel, really enjoy watching and learning. I've got a 1994 mini tahiti, which I've owned for just over a year. It has cover sills fitted unfortunately. I don't have your skills and certainly don't have the time. Could you give me a rough idea of what I would expect to pay to have my cover sills removed and welding work carried out and correct sills fitted. I know that's abit of how long is a piece of string but I'm just after an idea please. Keep up the good work. Kind regards Scott.
I'm not sure what the going rate is at a restorer/bodyshop but I would think in the region of £400 - £600 for both sides would be a reasonable price for it to be done properly
Always wonder if things like this are done by a garage of by a hobbyist as I'm have never welded b4 i brought a mini and mine is like 100% better. I left the jacking points off mine no point in them anymore less to rot 😆
The previous repairs are terrible Keith, scary how some people repair their minis. I would personally reinstate the jacking point, just to keep it true to original. Thanks for sharing the video.
I had over sills on my mini, they just covered the rotten original cills, eventually it rotted along the whole length of the floor, This is turning into a big job but it needs doing right.
After all the repairs you have done over the years,it shouldnt be a surprise to see that bodge!!!! One thing,please make sure when using an extension lead on a roll,undo it all the way so its not coiled up!! People do not believe that its needed but when coiled up,it produces a lot of heat and can melt the cable and cause great isues!!! I have seen it happen,once many years ago we had contractors working over a Christmas shut down,servicing a machine and he didnt uncoil his lead and with only an inspection lamp been used,it burst into flames!!!!!! Great to see Minis been rebuilt please keep the posts coming!!!! One question,the flooring you have,can it stand up to welding spatter? I ask as i am thinkg of doing my floor(Its a tarmac floor!!!!)and wondered if that type of flooring is ok to use when welding!! Cheers!!!!
Good call on the coiled extension, I need to get a shorter one, it's 30M so even when uncoiled it's not great. It has tripped on me before for that very reason but that was with a couple of 1500w heaters connected (No surprise really!) The floor does get weld burns in it from the spatter. I try to put some ply or metal directly under the area I am welding.
@@classicminiworkshop I have several extension leads of various lengths to allow for me to not have to have a "long lead"!! When i did my garage from a 2 car carport(it was old rusty corrogated tin!!!!)i put twin13amp plugs every 4ft or so to make life easy!! All done on a ring main to a fusebox that is fed from a 16amp supply!! It was all checked out by a qualified sparky and so far after 4 years apart from a short on the welder have had no issues!It means i can have 2 grinders,welder,lead lamp plus radio/tv/satalite box all running at once with no problems!! As for the floor,i guessed that it woulnd be any good for welding on withhout extra protection!!! I guess i will have to think again as i do a lot of welding in there so would need a "large" piece of metal to stop any issues!!! Maybe i will give the tarmac floor a concrete skim over to allow me to weld ok!! Cheers for the reply!!!!
Hiya Keith-that's a bloody poor repair job by any standard. Hope things go well from now on. Really enjoyed the video anyway. Good luck. Stay well. Thankyou.
That was a bit of a bummer mate but this is Planet Mini and just bad luck. But once the crap is out of the way as you say it didn't look too bad a job to repair. It probably won't make you feel better but just see the extra hours labour as extra content. As long as it doesn't extra cash you are keeping it a 'budget build'. On Noah I didn't have any oversill and bodging issues or double skinned heelboard. In fact I didn't have a floor, heelboard, sills or bins at all ... 😳😂
@@classicminiworkshop No worries Keith its why you have them. 👍 Been over to Newton Commercials today (they are only 12 miles away), parted with a rather large number of pennies and now have most of the interior I was missing. All in Atlas Grey. Xmas treat
Would it be helpful to knock some openings in the over-sill panels to permit better drainage? What about hitting the inside of the sill/over-sill with a good sealing product (WoolWax/FluidFilm, etc.)?
The plug welds failed because the hole was too small, usually those punched ones on those joddler tools, if it was 7-8mm it would not have come apart if welded properly
Yeah, spot on I reckon. The holes were probably 4 or 5mm. You need a big enough hole that you can build a weld puddle up in the middle and flow it out to the outer panel
Trouble is today with all classics fetching daft money , cowboy traders are cashing in on the game by bodging cars like this, shame but means buyers need to be pretty vigilant when buying.💪💪💪
I don’t know why people go to the effort of trying to weld them up if they’re just plating over the top of rust and not even doing a proper job of the welds, seems like a pointless exercise it’s not like they’re making it any better. I guess they just realise it’s a bigger job than they thought and try to bodge it back together.
With that much rust check each (L&R above parcel tray) front inside where the fresh air vent comes through. They tend to rust out there too. I've done oversill removal but not as fortunate as you. 🤬
That's EPs 1-10 binged - great stuff, Keith!
Looks like my welding! What a nightmare, but in good hands now. 😎
Its not that bad LOL
Nice to see at least you are doing the repairs properly Keith. 👍
Enjoying the series up to know after having minis in my youth and now having a basket case city e and an RSP cooper. Good stuff Keith enjoying watching
Nice work sir. i am playing catch up so binging on this project - loving the beard :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Another great video. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
This side of the pond, we would is that it was a "Shade tree mechanic." I would say that someone was trying to dump the problems off on the next bloke. It's great that you care about those great little cars.. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Very enjoyable editing.
Thank you very much!
Thanks!
Thanks Tim, very kind of you!
Hi . Davejaguar has shown this sort of repair. In my opinion remove the rear bins. it makes it accessible and allows the cill full length on the outside . rgds Don
Thanks Don, ill check it out. I must have missed that one, I watch most of Dave's videos.
It's a good job you decided to replace outer sill It's a death trap how on earth did it get through a mot
It's scary what these minis can hide. Thank god it with someone who knows what they are doing.
Very informative video. I still have the original cills on my 81 mini but, I am worried about 1 of the rear offside subframe bolts. The heel board looked okay when I had the subframe off. However, I think the captive nuts will need doing at some point so, I am looking forward to the repair in that area.
Hi Keith why do people do this type of thing on classic cars, it great to see someone doing it correctly and how it should be done even if it going to take a considerably longer to complete , great work mate.
Thanks Malcolm
When 2 flat surfaces are laid against each other ,the water is almost sucked into the gap..capillary attraction. Lay a credit card on the kitchen worktop and add a few drops of water to the edge and the water will spread thru the mating faces. Protect the faces of the car with paint that can be welded thru. Cars steel and water. It's going to happen. I really think that regular checks for chipped paint and spraying stone chip guard are the best things you can do. Rgds Don
I can't understand people doing this thing, bodgeing patches on top of rusty originals. On my Mk1 I restored, patches had been gas welded and brazed on top of the rot in several places. The gas welding had obviously led to burning off the paint from the inside of the panels, that had been repaired. Which in turn had enhanced the rot massively since it were never re-painted!
Hi Keith, i suppose on one hand that it's no surprise to find rust etc underneath the sills, and a shame to find dodgy patches with dodgy welding. Just as well it's in your hands Keith, and will be repaired properly hey. Guess you could find the same on the other side hey?? Great stuff as always 😊
Hi Keith not much you can say about that sill removal really, concerning that people are having work done on their minis and cosmetically it looks ok but the reality is a different story. Great video nice to see more progress though I’m sure you’ve got the feeling of one step forward, two steps back. Whoever buys this car is going to know it’s sound.
Great Work
Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
Thanks Dave
That sill came off way to easy it's a good job you doing it properly. If you were in an accident wow. Good job 👍
Hi Keith, great channel, really enjoy watching and learning. I've got a 1994 mini tahiti, which I've owned for just over a year. It has cover sills fitted unfortunately. I don't have your skills and certainly don't have the time. Could you give me a rough idea of what I would expect to pay to have my cover sills removed and welding work carried out and correct sills fitted. I know that's abit of how long is a piece of string but I'm just after an idea please. Keep up the good work. Kind regards Scott.
I'm not sure what the going rate is at a restorer/bodyshop but I would think in the region of £400 - £600 for both sides would be a reasonable price for it to be done properly
Gutting but it’s often the case I think!
Nice. Why do you have the rope there? Between wheel and door handle.
Because the car is at an angle the door keeps slamming shut so the bungee rope helps keep it open when I have to door open
Always wonder if things like this are done by a garage of by a hobbyist as I'm have never welded b4 i brought a mini and mine is like 100% better. I left the jacking points off mine no point in them anymore less to rot 😆
The previous repairs are terrible Keith, scary how some people repair their minis. I would personally reinstate the jacking point, just to keep it true to original. Thanks for sharing the video.
I did end up putting a new jacking point in (Next episode)
@@classicminiworkshop Great to hear. I thought you might, as your attention to detail is second to none. Looking forward to seeing your next episode.
I had over sills on my mini, they just covered the rotten original cills, eventually it rotted along the whole length of the floor,
This is turning into a big job but it needs doing right.
Yeah, it might take a bit longer buy at least it will keep me busy!
I had a mini in the 90s and when I removed the rusty sill, I found 2 others behind it. They had been bashed in and left to rot.
After all the repairs you have done over the years,it shouldnt be a surprise to see that bodge!!!! One thing,please make sure when using an extension lead on a roll,undo it all the way so its not coiled up!! People do not believe that its needed but when coiled up,it produces a lot of heat and can melt the cable and cause great isues!!! I have seen it happen,once many years ago we had contractors working over a Christmas shut down,servicing a machine and he didnt uncoil his lead and with only an inspection lamp been used,it burst into flames!!!!!! Great to see Minis been rebuilt please keep the posts coming!!!! One question,the flooring you have,can it stand up to welding spatter? I ask as i am thinkg of doing my floor(Its a tarmac floor!!!!)and wondered if that type of flooring is ok to use when welding!! Cheers!!!!
Good call on the coiled extension, I need to get a shorter one, it's 30M so even when uncoiled it's not great. It has tripped on me before for that very reason but that was with a couple of 1500w heaters connected (No surprise really!) The floor does get weld burns in it from the spatter. I try to put some ply or metal directly under the area I am welding.
@@classicminiworkshop I have several extension leads of various lengths to allow for me to not have to have a "long lead"!! When i did my garage from a 2 car carport(it was old rusty corrogated tin!!!!)i put twin13amp plugs every 4ft or so to make life easy!! All done on a ring main to a fusebox that is fed from a 16amp supply!! It was all checked out by a qualified sparky and so far after 4 years apart from a short on the welder have had no issues!It means i can have 2 grinders,welder,lead lamp plus radio/tv/satalite box all running at once with no problems!! As for the floor,i guessed that it woulnd be any good for welding on withhout extra protection!!! I guess i will have to think again as i do a lot of welding in there so would need a "large" piece of metal to stop any issues!!! Maybe i will give the tarmac floor a concrete skim over to allow me to weld ok!! Cheers for the reply!!!!
Hiya Keith-that's a bloody poor repair job by any standard. Hope things go well from now on. Really enjoyed the video anyway. Good luck. Stay well. Thankyou.
Thanks 👍 I'll save it :)
That was a bit of a bummer mate but this is Planet Mini and just bad luck. But once the crap is out of the way as you say it didn't look too bad a job to repair.
It probably won't make you feel better but just see the extra hours labour as extra content. As long as it doesn't extra cash you are keeping it a 'budget build'.
On Noah I didn't have any oversill and bodging issues or double skinned heelboard. In fact I didn't have a floor, heelboard, sills or bins at all ... 😳😂
I've made use of one of the door steps you gave me, thanks in advance!
@@classicminiworkshop No worries Keith its why you have them. 👍
Been over to Newton Commercials today (they are only 12 miles away), parted with a rather large number of pennies and now have most of the interior I was missing. All in Atlas Grey. Xmas treat
Would it be helpful to knock some openings in the over-sill panels to permit better drainage? What about hitting the inside of the sill/over-sill with a good sealing product (WoolWax/FluidFilm, etc.)?
Yes, one of the simplest things you can do if you have over sills is to open up the flutes and fill with cavity wax
Wow that was barely on there! The plug welds you showed looked shocking
It’s almost good enough under there that someone else might’ve cut the panel down it’s length and spotted it back on 🤠
You mentioned that the over sill was plug welded... were the original outer sills from the factory not spot welded down both sides?
Yes, original sill are spot welded to the floor and the door step/rear quarter panel.
@@classicminiworkshop So without a spot welder with deep arms, then installing new heritage outer sills will require plug welding also.
@@Conor.Twomey Yes, you would need to plug weld or you could seam weld between the flutes.
I've gotta do the same to mine and I am not looking forward to finding all the bodge work that I am certain is underneath.
My mini floor boards were held in place by seam sealer by previous owner and same with boot floor so wonder I’m having shell fully restored
Wow, now that's a proper bodge!
@@classicminiworkshop when u going to show yr subs what i got made for the giveaway
@@Kieren.5 What do you mean yr subs?
@@Kieren.5 If you mean the pictures, its in this video th-cam.com/video/vw1pTD2_fMM/w-d-xo.html
@@classicminiworkshop I missed that video but watched it. And sure once iv got mini back I'll defo send some more photos
The plug welds failed because the hole was too small, usually those punched ones on those joddler tools, if it was 7-8mm it would not have come apart if welded properly
Yeah, spot on I reckon. The holes were probably 4 or 5mm. You need a big enough hole that you can build a weld puddle up in the middle and flow it out to the outer panel
Trouble is today with all classics fetching daft money , cowboy traders are cashing in on the game by bodging cars like this, shame but means buyers need to be pretty vigilant when buying.💪💪💪
Why use WD40, which is a water repellent? Far better to use something like Plus-Gas, which is a proper penetrating fluid.
Agreed, but it's all I had to hand. Certainly better than nothing!
I don’t know why people go to the effort of trying to weld them up if they’re just plating over the top of rust and not even doing a proper job of the welds, seems like a pointless exercise it’s not like they’re making it any better. I guess they just realise it’s a bigger job than they thought and try to bodge it back together.
With that much rust check each (L&R above parcel tray) front inside where the fresh air vent comes through. They tend to rust out there too.
I've done oversill removal but not as fortunate as you. 🤬
Will do. Ill have the wings and A panels off soon, so will get a good look
drilled through and plug welded it , but then missed all the holes they drilled, jesus christ talk about a poorly done job
excuse the language but F**k thats terrible workmanship
Not great is it!