Join It!!! - Lock Joint
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
- Join it Episode 4 shows you how to make the well known and well used "lock joint" (aka off set tongue and groove). I have used this many times in my cabinet builds as well as drawer construction. I love this super easy joint. It increases glue strength and looks good too. I have grown to love it in cabinet construction too. It might seem over engineered but it will surely last. Hope you guys like this episode and you can leave me any comments, tips or suggestions below. Thank you and and don't forget to subscribe!!!
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I hope you are doing well. I watch this particular video every time I set up this joint.
love the joint - nice explanation Drew!
Thanks for sharing Drew, from across the pond
Really like this series of instructional videos Drew. Great reference material to keep in all of our "video toolboxes"!
Best explanation I've seen for this joint. Well done.
Nice video, enjoyed watching...I have used this "lock joint" myself in the past...
My favorite type of joint! Well, 2nd favorite.
This is great, thank you for sharing.
Very Glad to see you back :) missed seeing the very informative videos. Keep up the great work BOOM
Thanks Drew. I built two deawers today based on your video. Turned out great. Until now I had been using Pocket Hole construction. Your method takes about the same time, and look much better.
Drew, I'm a new subscriber. Love your work and I really appreciated these Join It videos. always good to review essential fundamentals. You do a great job with very clear instruction. Thanks
Great Video Drew.. I might try and start using this joint
Great to see you back Derw!
Hi Drew, great to see again.
Congrats.
ZACCARO
Great video Drew!
thx bud! at least i will put myself to try with my new tablesaw! you gave me inspiration for this long sunday! thx from Italy!
BOOOOM!!!
I really like the use of the stop block to cut the rabbet instead of a sacrificial fence.
As a new woodworker, I'm liking this series.
Thanks !
Just what I needed to see, thank you!
Perfect. Glad it helped
I'm now glad I Join'd your chanel *BOOM*
SWEET!!! I was wondering where you went...I was almost gonna message you and ask "whats up?" but then I thought that might seem kinda stalkerish ...I made it a point to make sure I follow this particular series of joinery vids closely. Thanks for putting it together.
I really like this joint. I will incorporate it in the shelves system I'm building rather than dowels.
nice joint, maybe i try this at my kitchen cabinet I have to build :)
Thank you so much
Welcome back love the vid
Thank you
There are lots of videos on the lock joint. I have watched most of them as well as made lots of them. Your demo was from the KISS principle. Great explanation and visuals. Anyone should be able to follow.
Thank You!!! Glad to hear it.
nice work Drew
Thanks
Nice video! Simple enough. Thank you
It is and a very strong joint to boot. I use it on probably about 90% of my drawer making. It looks very cool once the drawer is sprayed with finished too
@@rhwoodshop I found a router bit at Rockler. Not too expensive either. This looks to be a good deal stronger than a box joint, and I like that you only need to clamp across. Will put it on the list. Thanks again!
Drew, Glad to see you back at it. Great video. I use this joint quit frequently and sometimes I use a 3/8 set up in 3/4 stock so I do not have to raise the blade to cut the tongue especially on drawer fronts. I was shown this by an old cabinet maker.
I do not know if you have a shop tips section on your web site or not (would be a great addition) where tips can be posted by members so I hope you don't mind this one. If you are looking for cheap push blocks go to your local big box store and purchase cheap grout floats. I get mine from Lowe's they run under $5.00.
BOOM!!
No such thing as 3/4" plywood.
@@lesterwroblewski9863 - Guess there's no such thing as 2x4 either?
Thumbs Up!
Add a few strategically placed finish or brad nails toed nailed in to reinforce joints since wood glue is very weak at bonding end grains. Over time many carcass seem to always fail when loaded heavily or stresses such as movement.
That would probably be beneficial especially if you are using hardwood for your drawer carcasses. However, I have found that plywood holds together quite well. I have revisited some of my plywood drawers that I have use this joint on that have been in use for over 15 years and they are holding up great. Thank you so much for the awesome comment!
I've always called this a lock-rabbet joint but nice explanation.
I personally think this explenation is better than when you use the sacrificial fence... I'd love to use my dado stack I bought months ago, but for some reason have been nervous to do so...
Get with it. Lots of doors open up when you use it.
Thanks for all your videos and knowledge. I am now a full blown woodworking hobbyist and have built and building a few of your projects; Ultimate table saw cabinet (still building the drawers and torsion top), cross cut sled and will soon be adding the 45 degree jig to my cross cut sled. Question, when using the lock joint for drawers, it looks like the sides are actual depth and the front and back are an inside measurement plus a half inch to accommodate the quarter inch tongue on both sides, correct?
You got it. The easiest way of knowing what to cut is the sides are to length and the front and back are 1 inch shorter than the overall width of the drawer. So if you have a 20 inch wide drawer from outside to outside then your front and backs should be cut to 19 inches. Good luck on the rest of your build and send me some pictures when you had it finished. I would love to see it.
I'm new to woodworking and looking to join a few large 3/4" plywood panels together (approx 3 ft along the edge). Would this be a good method? I thought of pocket holes, but that'd be quite a few holes to fill.
Where do you staple it or do you not staple it?
What ever happened with all of those pallets you had?
you had to raise the blade to 1/2 inch for the tongue right?
Wouldn't this be as easily done on a router table? Also I have a dada blade I bought from Sears circa 1980, that has adjustable width's. I never see them anymore so I suspect they had some issues. Mine works fine and i get more infinite widths if needed. This cut you made does seem to eliminate mistakes in getting drawer etc dimensions correct.
how do you go about determining the final length of the drawer front? It's not sitting down into the dado very far.. so there must be some method to figure out what length to cut the back and front of the drawer to...
+Jay Harper what ever the overall drawer width should be just subtract 1" for the length of the front and back because the dado depth is 1/4" on both sides.
I have a problem with making the tongue using the video instructions. You say to use the 1st piece agst the fence as a stop& then butt up the tongue to be agst it and run it across the blades. When I do this, the new piece doesn't reach the blades and no cut occurs. How do you establish a stop to make the right length of the tongue to fit perfectly into the dado cut. If you but it up to the fence, wouldn't it be longer than the depth of the dado it mates with?
Very sorry about that, the fence is moved away from the blade a quarter inch in distance so you can achieve the quarter inch depth of the tongue. You will need to raise the blade up another quarter of an inch for a total of a half inch give or take since plywood isn’t exactly 3/4 of an inch thick.
Lot easier than a dovetail.
Do you use anything but glue when making drawers with this?
I have found metal fasteners are not necessary at all with this construction. I use it often.
Thanks!
Can we use this joint with plywood panel of 1m60 for corners ? And how you fix them with bassement?
I’m not sure exactly what you mean by these questions. I’m not sure what a 1m60 is but you can use this joint for corners of cabinetry or furniture if that helps. I’m not sure what your second question is.
@@rhwoodshop i Want use wood panels as wall finishing and i wont use screw i asked if i Can use this joint for corner panel for the wall panel measure 1m60 high 0.600 large
I would say yes but I would probably make the tongue half the thickness of the panel that you are wanting to use instead of a third the thickness.
Hey Drew you never fallow your sliding dovetail miter joint! Thanks
Don't worry, that's my next build
Do you use screws? Thanks.
Nope. It holds perfectly with just glue and clamps.
Do you reinforce the joint with a screw for a drawer?
+My Honey's Handmade no, no reinforcement is needed as long as you use plenty of glue and clamping pressure. The joint itself keeps the drawer together.
This isn't pocket screws. I'm angry! Great stuff!
Lol. Too funny
Did you forget to mention the blade height on the second cut? Wouldn't it need to be 1/2"? (To leave a 1/4" x 1/4" tab)
Yup I always, no matter how much I try to say everything, forget something.
The outside edge of the blade is 3/4 from the fence then you put the lip piece against the dado piece which put the lip piece 3/4 from the fence which is the same distance the blade is resulting in no cut.
I'm hoping that I understand this right but whenever I use the lip piece as a stop block, the fence is actually in two different locations. One is with the thickness of the wood to the outside of the blades and the other is the thickness of wood to the inside of the blade. Did that answer your question?
If I don't move the fence put the tounge piece verticle I don't have to move the fence and cut using the fence alone
Interesting...... Might have to try that.
I had the same question as Woodwrecker when I went out to try this joint in the shop. I think you may have edited out the part where you move the fence for the second cut. at 2:39.
jeff hayes Yeah there's usually something I forget by accident. You do have to move the fence with the stop block on the inside of the blade so all your trimming off is the last bit of the adjacent piece which would leave you the 1/4" x 1/4" tongue. Sorry about that!
You dont explain how to set up the fence for the second cut.
Kevin Zink well the only thing that I failed to mention was raising the blade height up to a half inch which is the negative of the opposing piece. The first piece you cut is always the positive the opposing pieces the negative.
Why didn't you mark on the wood how wide the "tung" should be? Do you just slice a little bit and then test it?
Yes it is just a few passes to get it to fit like a glove
+Rock-n H Woodshop Okay - thanks. I am going to try it :-) .
Didn't you skip a video Drew?
Nope. It's my next project vid but I needed to get something quick like this one out of the way. I assume you are talking about the sliding dovetail miter frame.