The fast and easy half-half-half drawer construction method
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Why don't more people do this? You can batch out a pile of drawers in minutes!
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs....
Follow us on social media►
Instagram: / stumpynubs
Twitter: / stumpynubs
Facebook: / stumpy-nubs-woodworkin...
The best part of this video is when you explain the dangers of using the tablesaw with vertical boards. Showing options for how to get the job done while minimizing the dangers is key. Thanks for this!
I've probably commented this exact comment 10 times on your channel, so what's one more? I cant tell you how much I love these videos. So well put together. Unbelievably informative. Just a great way to spend spare time watching something useful. BTW.. I hardly do any wood working projects... but if I was going to, man your teachings would be GOLD. Keep up the awesome work
I've watched multiple videos on draw construction, looking for one that was easy to follow. Yours was by far the best! Thanks!
You are the best teacher in the world ! bless you & your family
Yup, what they ↕️ all said, well, the positive ones that is. Excellent as usual James, thank you for sharing your wisdom and your excellent craftsmanship, 11 out of 10 😎👍
As always, Stumpy, you articulate the task so well, be it complicated or simple, or a combination of the two. Well done! Also, love the description, works for any thickness of stock.
That looks simple enough that I can try myself! Thanks a lot!
Great video! Being from Sweden - a country that relies heavily on international standard - I always marvel at the way you manage to keep track of inches, feet and yards! 3/4, 3/8, 3/16 and so on... The metric system is SO much easier to grasp. 😄
not😁
Your correct. Adding, subtracting, and even measuring with fractional measurements can introduce errors. I’m trying to transition to the metric system in my woodworking and find it’s easier math.
Probably as simple and complete explanation as I've heard including the safety aspect. Good job kid.
This is a great help! Built a couple prototypes today and can't believe how strong they are! Awesome education. James you make me a better woodworker! Thanks buddy!!!
love this, i'll be building some kitchen drawers and will use this method. also love the can of Billy Beer back there... I didn't notice it the first few times i watched the video.. LOL
Nicely done video. Clear simple explanation. Thank You.
Great, love the 1 set up. You are a very knowledgeable guy!
Simple and easy to understand explanations are always found in your videos.
Excellent safety tips!
you make it all so simple, love all your videos.
Great stuff, Stumpy. Would be nice to give a clear explanation of how to determine the cut lengths for the bottoms. Don't ask me why!! Also, expect some of the little cubes left at the bottom outside corners of the front and back to break off. Otherwise, worked very well, thanks.
Truly great. This will be my method going forward
Finally. I understand this concept.
How have i not seen this before
You are the best, thanks for the very useful info.
I've been experimenting with some different drawer methods and I love the simplicity and efficiency of this technique. Heading out to the shop now to try this out. Thanks!
Stumpy - I seldom comment, however this video deserves a thumbs up. That is by far the best explanation / tutorial I've ever seen regarding this process!
WELL DONE!!
agree
*Every* video of Stumpy Nubs deserves a thumbs up.
great lesson just in time to build some drawers 🍻
Great video, thank-you.
Cool technique. I have to try this. Don’t need a drawer right now, but I’ll make one anyway. 😂
Hey stumpy - I used the half method on undersized 1/2 ply. Used 15/64" for distance from blade and blade depth (which is half of the stock thickness). The fit ended up really tight. With much coercion and tapping with a hammer, I can fit the pieces together. But I seriously doubt I will be able to get glue in there. Do you have a recommendation on what needs to be changed when the joints end up too tight? Anything that might stand out as obvious?
I'm planning to use this method for the cabinet and the drawers for some hardware storage. After all, a cabinet is just a sideways drawer to this simple sailor.
Thanks for the video. I am a fairly new woodworker and have built a miter station that is going to need drawers. This method seems straight forward and strong. I appreciate your ability to explain things in a way that’s understandable. One question that pertains to drawers, if I use wooden drawer slides ( due to cost) is there an easy way to attach a stop so that the drawers won’t come out unless you want them to ?
You could screw a block to the top edge of the drawer's back panel that sticks up a bit and will catch the top of the drawer frame opening.
really enjoy watching your videos. Always informative and easy to understand.
How would you secure a notched end (like a birds mouth, used at the bottom ends of 2 sets of crossed/scissor legs) to a square piece of wood running horizontal from one set of legs to the other set of legs on the opposite side) Wish I could send a photo.
That’s pretty awesome dude!
Great video as always given me some ideas.
If you find time could you do a video on spindle moulders?
I noticed in your sketches the groove is stopped where it intersects with the dado but your actual cuts go all the way through to the end of the board. I am having a problem with the little quarter inch corner nub that is left after the intersection of the groove and dado. It keeps falling off. I’m using prefinished half inch birch but it seems to have a lot of voids that I didn’t see when I bought the wood. Should I abandon this project or switch to pocket holes to save the wood?
Stumpy, much of the baltic birch plywood available locally is not always exactly 1/2 or 3/4 inch thinkness. Last 3/4 inch boards measured .704 inches thick. Using a .35 inch (or fractionally thicker) setup should work with this process. Correct?
*I asked the salesman at the hardwood store why some batches of the baltic birch plywood vary in thickness, he replied that 3/4" inch is the maximum thickness allow. Any comment on this? Thought plywood in my youth measued a true 1/2, 5/5, 3/4 inch. Maybe dragging it from a constuction site to our tree fort was a factor. Thanks
Your setup should be half the material's thickness, not matter what it is.
There's a great video on YT where a guy tests all kinds of drawer joints vs glue. The glue wins hands down. Even on dovetails.
I disagree that the corners are the weakest part of a drawer. I think the drawer floor is the weakest if made the common way of trapping a thin, floating panel in a groove. This is why I've made scores of drawers by first cutting a floor to the overall size of the body. Then I cut the four wall panels and set them atop the perimeter of the floor. I use 1/2" Baltic for all the parts. No sagging floors under heavy shop or kitchen tools and hardware.
This method should work for building beehive boxes too. They need a strong joint but who has time for dovetails?
This joint is only mechanically strong in one direction- the direction you pull on the drawer front. Finger joints are popular for beehive boxes because they are very strong in all directions.
@@StumpyNubs Thank you James. The hive boxes are heavy and the stresses are only when lifting the heavy box. With this in mind would you still think the half half half joint is too weak to be useful? Assuming it's glued and stapled..
Because they are going to be exposed to the elements, you want them to be as strong as possible. I would use finger joints.
huh this is the method I learned from my dad. I didn't know it was so uncommon.
My 3/4 baltic birch ply measures 11/16 thick, do I need to half 11/16?
Great video, here in the UK, we cant use dado cutters in our table saws. Do you have any suggestions how to overcome this problem without having to use different setups and multiple passes?
You may do the same thing with a router table as long as the bit is half the thickness of your material.
Do you have a link to the feather board used to the tall panels?
Can do do these dados etc with a router instead?
Great video! Could you explain this so simple in the case when we can not use dado stack? (like in Europe)
I made half half half assed drawers.
Where do you find plywood that actually measures 0.50 or 0.75 inches thick? They all measure a little less so those dimensions you showed need to be adjusted.
The thickness doesn't matter. Your dado set just has to be HALF of whatever it is.
It's a great video, but where did he get his saw blade that cuts a 1/4" kerf? I found one for $130 - WOW
I use a dado set, which is an adjustable stack of blades for cutting kerfs of various widths. They are not cheap, but they are very useful. Here's a video about them: th-cam.com/video/Ex4UgxzaB0Q/w-d-xo.html
and the hardcore weekend warriors can use a circular saw with a simple jig. you can even tape 2 blades together to make a dado blade.
We just finished 5 furniture projects using just a handheld circular saw for a course we will be launching in the coming months. Made me REALLY miss my table saw!
Funny, You showed a drawer being assembled and it looked as if you were sliding the last piece into the grooves from the top. If you were to slide this drawer together , how do you get the bottom groove past the bottom of the drawer? or after assembling the sides, front and back , how do you get the bottom in? I suppose you could assemble and spread the sides and add the front or back but that makes for messy glueing if you glue. When I build my drawers using the same method I left the the back of the bottom panel long, cut the bottom groove away from the back and when assembled, adding glue and staples to the last edge to keep the drawer bottom fast. You didn't show an assembly so just wondering, how you did yours?
I didn't mention it because I wanted to keep it simple. But in that particular drawer the groove was trimmed off the back panel and the bottom was slipped in from the rear. This is how drawers were traditionally made. But it was not necessary for a plywood drawer like that.
@@StumpyNubs My bad then sorry, It was just confusing to watch you assemble a drawer and talk about something different now that you've explained it. Thanks for all the good videos, I have a few good sharp chisels now. They sure do come in handy that way.🔨🗜🛠
after having a small accident using this method to cut the rabbits I would add to the safety comment, be careful, also what do is put a sacrificial fence and cut them flat on the saw.
I see a lot of people asking the same question, and no answers: How do you adjust this method to reality? Even $100/sheet (just paid that today) 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood is NOT 1/2" How to accommodate the real thickness of plywood when using this technique?
As explained in the video, the dado set needs to be half the thickness of the material. Doesn't matter what that is.
@@StumpyNubs fair enough. I can play with shims in my dado stack to do that, but it is a pain. Lots of videos on this that all seem to assume perfectly fractionally-dimensioned lumber (i.e., 1/2" ), which as far as I can tell doesn't exist. Where do people get that? Even the $100/sheet 1/2" Baltic birch ply I bought for this project is not 1/2".
If only... I live in a country where Dado sets are outlawed. The arbor on my table saw is too short. Any easy way to do this without a dado stack?
You can use a router table as long as the bit is half the thickness of your materials.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks James. Another comment on safety. It's probably better to use a zero clearance insert to prevent the narrow edge of the vertical boards from slipping down beside the blade.
But 3/4” plywood is not 3/4” thick. Usually a bit less. Can get messy. Best to use a mock up to adjust the cut
Doesn't matter the plywood's thickness. Just use half the thickness for your setup. Of course you should make test cuts.
Stumpy Nubs agreed. Just thought the clarification would be good. Some beginners might not realize that, even tho you sort of said it by calling the “half, half, half” setup and just set to 1/4” or 3/8” or half the nominal thickness of the material.
So if using metric you use 0.5 rather than 1/2!
"Half the thickness of the material" applies to metric as well as imperial scales.
@@StumpyNubs rat-tat-tat-tat !!!!!
You got him Stumpy 😆😆 !!!!
😆😆 Martin is being cheeky, as 0.5=½. I get you, Martin!
Quick reminder of fraction math. To divide a fraction by 2, double the bottom number (denominator). For example to calculate one-half of 1/2, multiply the 2 at the bottom to get 1/4. One half of 9/16, multiply the 16 at the bottom to get 9/32.
Ah fractions the bane of my wife!
I've found that if you do multiple drawers of similar width and depth, you can run larger pieces of wood through the saw to cut the dado and rabbet for multiple drawers at once. Then, you can just cut off the heights you need and run the groove in for the bottom in the individual drawer faces after. This allows you to manipulate larger pieces on the table saw for better support. This is also useful when the bottom has to be set at a specific distance, i.e. for undermount slides that might not respect the 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 of this method.
dang great tip!
I’m embarking installing kitchen cabinet pullout drawers/shelves with under mount slides. This will definitely be a time saver.
Running boards on end through the table saw can be a dangerous process...especially without a really good zero clearance plate. For the ends and bottoms (rabbets), I use a sacrificial fence right up to the blade. As long as the sacrificial fence is HALF the width of your work piece you don't even have to measure. With this method you can run pieces through on their face to create the rabbet instead of on end. That will help keep you fingers from becoming Stumpy Nubs.
I've heard tell of this one-setup method but hadn't seen it demonstrated so crystal clearly. Your timing is perfect since I'm planning to make drawers using this method very soon. 👍🏼
Yeah, what @Featherboards said.
Great video! Only thing that doesn't seem to be explained is how the groove on the sides is shown as not breaking through on the section of wood past the dado that wraps around the end of the front and rear of the drawer. 4:30 is a good closeup of this. I notice that at 0:29 there is a quick shot of the side showing that the groove did break out. I assume since there is a false front this is not a concern? Got my thumbs up regardless! This is a great video for quick production or beginners!
I was wondering the same thing.
Ditto
For me, this would be easier to do at the router table (keeping the front and rear side from breaking through on the dado on the bottom groove).
I believe the drawings are shown that way for clarity, but in practice he did not stop the grooves.
See 3:51 in the video.
I was wondering the same thing.
Hey Stumpy - I am about to make drawers for my homemade router table so this video was perfect - best explanation I’ve seen on this method. 1/2” plywood isn’t really 1/2” and 1/4” plywood isn’t really 1/4” I don’t think dado stacks go less than 1/4” so how do you deal with the thinner stock issue
I’m new to woodwork and came here just to ask this question
Wish this question would’ve been answered, as I’m needing to build 45 drawer boxes with 1/2” (15/32” actual) Baltic Birch, which translates to a 15/64ths dado/rabbit. Have searched the ol’ interweb with no real results.
@@handyguyinc I use a wobble dado blade that is essentially infinitely variable
Hey Stumpy 😀 !!
I love your clearly explained, analytical and practical approach to things !!!
Once again, an outstanding video ✌️!!!
Besides being a master craftsman, you are a master teacher. Well done video!
I agree : he is a born teacher .
I'm agree! Excellent
WOW!!!
How many vids & PBS shows have I seen this process shown but never retained the knowledge? OK, maybe part is the failing memory of an old man but your explanation of half-half-half will be embedded in my brain now
Thanks, James!!!
Exactly! 1/2-1/2-1/2 makes much more sense to my mind as well. I mean, who always works with 1/2 inch material? That's a lot of extra thickness-planing and wasted wood if you're using real wood, and a better chance of warping if you're using modern poorly made plywood products.
I wish you had shown more on assembly of these drawers. Applying glue, sequence of assembly, keeping it square so you don't blow out the narrow end of the dados, and minimizing glue squeeze out.
The bottom 1/4 in. groove needs to be 1/2in. up from bottom when using Blum undermount. guides.........Seems like the whole method changes at that point............
I have been waiting for a better explanation on this process. Thank you. Going to give it a shot on my next set of drawer. Dovetails are too much work for me....
Hi Stumpy, I enjoyed the video. Your explanations are always clear and concise. I couldn't get comfortable with running my end boards on edge so I took the time to set up my router as well to cut the rabbets with the boards flat. Extra work, I know but it didn't take long to do the extra setup and it make me feel safer.
Very well explained. Back in the days when the epoxy slide was the state of the art we used to build drawers using this method but we would attach the bottoms without recessing them at all. The slides would totally cover and support the bottoms. I don’t miss the 3/4 extension, but I sure do miss that easy construction method. Great vid, James. Scott
Thanks for demonstrating this. I’ll never do it differently after how easy I found this to do. One critique that threw me for a second: your animation show the assembly finishing by sliding down a front/back piece, which had me questioning the dimensions of the drawer bottom for clearance. In reality, I figured out that you put a side on last and it presses into place.
I use that joint almost exclusively for drawers. Strong, quick, and easy. You did an awesome job explaining the process! The same set up can be done on the router table too, but then there is the noise and mess.
Dust collection is imperative if doing this on a router table. Try a relief cut down the middle of the grooves on the table saw first, it really does save time and wear on router bits, and improves accuracy on the router table as well.
I love this method!!
It ruins the "one set-up" advantage, but if one is *at all* squeamish about rabbeting the bottoms on edge, you can also dado all the sides first, then move your fence & add a sacrificial edge to allow you to rabbet the bottoms flat. Still get the excellent, simple, and strong joinery with one blade set-up and two fence set-ups, plus it's much safer for the novices. 😎👍
I prefer doing it this way. Extra steps but if you're making a shallow drawer the sides are narrow and cutting them on edge is sketchy. More so if you don't have a zero clearance insert for that setup
any chance you can make a similar video showing this method with a table top router, in Non USA... we can't get Dado Blade/Table Saw combinations so the only option would be a router.
easy enough to do, just thought.
Can this be achieved with a router instead of a dado blade?
Yes I just made some 1/2 in. drawers using my router and this process and it turned out great. However I feel the table saw would be easier to set up and quicker cuts.
@@jeremyhill5192 I've done this with a handheld plunge router and edge guide. Takes a bit more time, and you have to set up twice (or 3 times if you also have to cut a rabbet on the bottom panel), but it's not that much slower. Just had to watch for the router bit not getting too hot. It's probably a lot easier on a router table, but I don't have 1 (yet)
Yes, it is a very doable jobe with a router/router-table. I would suggest setting your table-saw to make a full (1/2) depth relief cut down the center of the groove to reduce the workload on the router and help keep it from over heating. Plus the relief cut will help guide the router bit keeping it more accurate. A hand-held router with an edge guide or a table-router with a good fence will work with or without the relief cut, but the relief cut will save router bits in the long run.
this is a perfect solution for my dadostack problem 😁👍
Is there a modified version of this that can be done without a dado stack? The rabbits are straight forward (one vertical pass and one flat pass per side), then I guess the first pass for each of the grooves, then edge in the fence for a couple additional passes to finish the grooves. Has anyone tried this?
If you have a table router, cut a relief groove down the center of your slot at the table saw (to make less work for your router) then set up your router for the half/half/half groove and finish the grooves on the router table. The cut on the table saw will make for less work on your router bit and less burning on your wood. Set the table-saw to cut your half thickness but at the center of your groove, so, if your doing 3/4 for instance, your 1/2 cut is 3/8, your center of cut will be 3/8 plus 3/16 from the fence or 9/16 of an inch.
I know I'm really late to the party here, but I just made my first set of this style of drawer this weekend. One thing I ran into that may help other people (and that I have not seen on any of the explanation videos) is... You really need to be precise when cutting your pieces to length before cutting the rabbets and dados, especially your bottom panels. If you can use all the same stops on a cross cut sled or something like that, you will probably get the best results. I don't have a cross cut setup, so I cut my sides to length on the miter saw, and bottom panels on the table saw. My drawers would not go together, because the bottom panels were almost an 1/8th too long. So I had to reset my table saw up to rip them down, reset the the dado blade up, and recut 1 dado on each of my 4 drawer bottoms. Not the end of the world, but it was enough to make me walk away from the project for the day!
Problem is, there. It such thing as 1/2” plywood. It’s 15/32 or 12mm.
I use big box 3/4 ply which is 23/32. Using the halfx3 method I needed a dado stack 23/64. I did this using a 3/32 chipper and two 0.2mm shims. Using a versatile dado stack and shims I'm sure you can come up with something for nominal 1/2 inch plywood.
Excellent instruction! Your diagrams help a lot. Question: Lacking a dado set, couldn’t one use a router table and 3/8 straight bit rather than a table saw?
Thanks!
I meant 1/4” for 1/2” boards.
Perfect timing, I was just going start a project needing a bunch of drawers.
Conversely, I just struggled with a few drawers LAST week...
A small error in your sketch up model that makes it seem like the bottom cut on the sides have grooves that don’t break through the ends
chunkymurps yeah I thought there was gonna be a step showing how to do that blind groove until I realized it was just an error in the sketchup design.
Awesome explanation, the sketch at 4:28 does however illustrate stopped grooves. Not that it matters if you are covering the front, but that could be mentioned.
I'm no woodworker, but I hear tell that 1/2" plywood is not 1/2", so you'd have to take 1/2 of the actual thickness, but that should be no problem
In the end, you are limited by what dado stack you have anyhow. Just round the numbers up.
3 years later and still a excellent video.
Timing couldn't be better. Just getting ready to batch out a bunch of 1/2 inch and 3/4 drawers. Can't wait to try it.
How are dados & rabbits made without table saw and router?
This may be the coolest thing I've seen when it comes to making drawers! Thank you!
Thinking this through - dado sets are a rarity here in the UK & unavailable for my table saw.
Surely this could be done on my router table using the correct diameter bit?
sure - I have made something similar with 12mm plywood and 6 mm router bit
Great method but as I am designing some drawers right now I wanted to clarify something. Running all the dados for the drawer bottom straight through the pieces will leave you with a visible square hole in the front and back panels. This will of course be somewhat filled in with the bottom and then covered with a false front but just want to double check others are having that same result during design and building and that I haven't cocked things up. Thanks for the clear explanation of this easy method!
I am wondering the same thing. At 4:31 the drawing shows this as not cut all the way through but I don't know how you would achieve that.
@@russellmm I think that is just how he drew it in sketch up, if you were to actually run this setup on a table saw you would definitely get those holes. You could in theory do this on a router table as well and then set up stop dados but that I think defeats the purpose of this quick and easy set up
Have you found any problem with the actual plywood thickness not equaling the nominal plywood thickness using this method? I know it is a minor discrepancy but I was curious.
This why the 1/2, 1/2/, 1/2 system uses 1/2 the thickness of the material.
Hey James, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent tutorial on making drawers with a dado blade and the one-step setup. Also, many thanks for including SAFETY issues regarding this setup.
Haven't made a drawer, other than dovetail joints before because they are typically complicated. And dovetails for me?....well they are time consuming and complicated too! Your video helps a great deal with understanding a simpler way of construction for typical drawers. I have watched your video twice, but still need to build one in my shop to get it under my belt. Thanks.
Robert at the Under Dunn YT channel just used this method to make something like 527 drawers. OK, maybe only 27. And he credits Stumpy by name as his mentor for this.
RD's video is why I'm here. Cheers!
Really great, I’m a believer. For me, I don’t think you mentioned the largest advantage. Trivial automatic squaring of the box!
Btw, at your earlier recommendation I have a great blade from Ridge Carbide.
I have just used rabbet joints on most of my drawers but now I really want to give this a try. Really broke it down and made it simple
👍 Have used this for years, a shop that I worked at 35 years ago we kept 1 saw set up for this with a custom blade for 12 mm Baltic birch. It’s always a pain trying to do it with the very undersized plywood these days. Or trying to find a dado blade that’s NOT 1/8” outside blades.
There is a problem with this method when using plywood. Plywood always measures less than its advertised thickness dimension. In particular ½" thick plywood is actually slightly less than ½" and if you setup for a ¼" dado you will end up with too much wiggle room. The problem becomes a little more complicated because If using a stacked dado blade you will not be able to cut a dado less than ¼" wide. I figured I wasn't the first woodworker to run into this limitation (cutting a dado slightly less than ¼") so I researched it and found a solution that I like.
The short answer is to use three 7¼" circular saw blades (they are only 1/16" thick) and some dado blade shims.
The long answer is to stack three 7¼" 18 tooth circular saw blades and some dado blade shims together. I thought it best to use an 18 tooth saw blade so there is room between the teeth to stack the blades flush. I bought three cheap ($4.99 each on sale) Skill 7¼" 18 tooth carbide tip blades from my local Menards store. For shims I use Forest magnetic dado shims because they can’t slide down into the saw arbor's threads causing inconsistent dado widths (which is a royal PITA when trying to achieve a precise dado width). If you have a Saw Stop (I have the professional cabinet saw model) then you’ll have a problem to overcome with the brake cartridge because a 7¼” blade will leave too much of a gap between the blade and the blade brake causing the system initialization to fail, even when using the bypass. To get past this I cut a piece of aluminum angle iron about 2” long and cut its width to 1⅝” and taped it the 10” blade brake using electrical tape and then enabled the safety bypass. Do this at your OWN risk! Now that I know this method works I will find a better solution to fool the Saw Stop brake cartridge.
The result is a perfectly wide dado exactly half the width of the plywood resulting in a nice snug fit. However, the bottom of the dado was not a flush plane… the were kerf marks. I did not have a router plane narrow enough to clean that up. So that was what I had to settle with. But I think it is a good enough dado for drawers.
Hope somebody finds this helpful.
Hi James, I love the video, but in practice, the 1/2 inch plywood isn't quite 1/2:". My dado stack minimal width is 1/4", I need more like 3/8-7/16". surely, I'm dot the only one.... any suggestions?
I'm interested in trying quarter-quarter-quarter drawers (or half-half-half as Mr. Nubs calls them) but I don't know the best way to pull it off if your 1/2" plywood is undersized because, as I understand it, dado stacks really only go down to 1/4".
Any ideas on the most foolproof way to do this otherwise, other than just using thicker plywood? 🤣
"Literally minutes"
My circular saw and trim router: "Oh hon hon hon~"
Reporting back: I, who have virtually no woodworking experience, somehow managed it with the circular saw and trim router on the first try. No redoing, just some embers from my trim router threatening to, and I quote, "burn this [censored] to the ground if you make me cut one more [censored] dado." Thank you, 3/8- 3/8-3/8-sensei.
I love your video! They're really clear and concise! One quick question about this one - when you cut the fronts and backs, how to you stop the groove for the bottom panel from making it all the way to the end? When I do this, I wind up with four little square holes on the sides. Thanks!
I concur with the comment below, assuming it's still below, well done and thank you! I enjoy all your videos. There is one thing I'm having trouble visualizing. Do you mean literal half of is that more figurative.? For example 3/4" ply isn't 3/4" actually a few mm off? So would setting dado height to 1/2 ie 3/8 for 3/4 or the actual thickness / 2?
Using ½ inch ply that is always less than ½ inch thick presents a problem if one attempts to use a dado stack which is ¼ inch when using the 2 outer blades. This is greater than ½ the thickness of the ply. Ex: my ply is about 0.484 inches thick. Half of that is only 0.242 inches which is less than the ¼ (.250) inches of the dado stack using the two outer dado blades. So, what do I do?