After doing a tonne of research over the winter of 2021/2022, I put drip tube into my raised beds last summer. Love it!! One of the things I did to ensure more even coverage was to cut and attach my drip tube so that the emitters in the drip tube were half way between the emitters of the adjacent tube, so that the emitter pattern was like an offset grid. (Not sure that I explained that right). It has allowed me to use 4 lines of drip tube with 12" spacing quite successfully in my 4' wide raised beds since that was all I could source at the time (Canada). I also splurged on the Permaloc fittings so I can undo/redo my set up if I like and they offered valves so that I can turn water on/off to individual beds. Admittedly, I have never worked with drip tape but I find that it looks a little clunky for raised beds that I want to look "pretty". It is my opinion that it is more suited for irrigating a rectangular field where the veggies are grown in long traditional rows where there isn't as great a need for as many changes in water flow direction. Thanks for your video review!
Offset grid emitter pattern! That might be the solution to my problem of not being able to find drip tubing with emitters closer than 18" in my area here in Canada too. Thanks for sharing your solution. Curious what emitter spacing drip tubing did you use?
@@jagdeeprandhawa4361 My drip tube has emitters spaced at 12". I purchased it on-line from Irrigation Direct Canada in Burlington, ON. I used 4 lines of this drip tube in 4' wide beds and set the automatic timer to water the beds for a half hour each day. I live in Niagara, ON where we get long spells of hot, humid weather and my beds are filled with 100% compost because I am lucky enough to have unlimited access to compost. This drip tube arrangement with this watering schedule kept everything growing great through the whole summer. This year, depending on the weather, I may experiment with setting my timer to water a little less to save more water. Good luck!
@@ctimms417 thanks mate! I have about 3' wide beds and I am planning to set the drip emitter tube width wise about 1' apart. Here in BC, we have had a wetter and cooler spring so far but last couple of summers have been super hot. I will try the offset grid placement of the emitters and hope they will last me well in the summer. Keeping my fingers 🤞
I did drip tape for three years and spent a lot of time fixing leaks. Last year changed to drip tube, it was harder to put down but I only had a couple of leaks. So I give a thumbs up to tube.
I've used both drip tape and dripline tubing for several years. Each has it's niche and I still use both. My lines are all supplied by 1/2" mainline. I first used dripline with .5gph emitters on 6" spacing in both the garden raised beds and around the deck shrub plantings. We have brutal mid-summer's and even shrubs need constant irrigation where I live. The dripline worked just fine but I added some more beds and was at the limit of my water supply if I watered all the garden beds at the same time (240gph total). So I switched the garden beds to drip tape, 15mil P1 with emitters 6" spacing at .25gph per emitter. This let me water more beds and gave me more control as it doubled the time I needed to water so I could find tune it (I use a flow meter to confirm how much is being pushed out). Drip line was on the surface and drip tape is burried. The tape seems to be working better for us. I added a Ez-Flo and can push liquid fertilizers and micro out to the root zones as I plant right on the tape. Just my take, but I think both have their place. Both my drip line and tape came from Drip Depot. Tape is Irritec P1, and the tubing was the 1/4" that they sell (no brand given?). I also like the mainline connection pieces with on/off valves for the tape better than the 1/4" valves. I would advise folks to stick with name brand products and not the China kit of the day for drip irrigation.
Thanks so much for sharing! Don't forget the filter! Generally you can just measure your pressure to make sure it's within spec. Usually it is. The filter is more important for a problem free installation. If you're installing droppers put in-line so that the ¼" distribution tubes are at low pressure. For irrigation contractors that's a must since your clients will be without a system until you can make repairs. I'm a retired landscaper and used Drip since day one when you had to order the parts from Israel. I don't think you needed better coverage. Wicking to where plants take it up should be adequate. Not sure if your comparison is based on ¼" Drip Tubing. If so you need to tie it into half inch feeders because the flow drops off gradually. You need to test! I haven't used Drip Tape much because it doesn't seem as rugged. The only thing I can say is that squirrels will be a problem with any system. Bury and mark your lines or you may end up doing constant maintenance and after all one of the goals is to minimize maintenance time and parts.
What timing! I spent all day today finishing up the installation of all the drip tubing in my new garden (upsizing from 80 sq ft to 145 sq ft). I’m in zone 9b SoCal & ultimately decided on the tubing after watching a lot of hot weather gardeners say the tape didn’t last, even with mulch, in the intense sun. I’m looking forward to seeing how you feel at the end of the season.
Thanks Brian for all of the videos on drip irrigation. I finally took the plunge and installed it today. I used your videos and did it all by myself without any help from my husband.
Well. By my experience and watching your video. I’m back to liking my conventional 1/2” irrigation hose with pop in adjustable water flow heads. I adjust each plant as to its needs for that particular plant time. I can make them drip or spray. Or just shutoff. I can pop in a 1/4” fitting to go to containers with any fitting I want. Loving all the learning videos.
For raised beds use drip tubing and for large gardens planted in long rows use drip tape. I would never use tape on a raised bed. I have 12 raised 4x8 beds I run drip tube on and I have 3/4 of an acre worth of tilled garden that I use drip tape irrigation on. My only exception to that rule would be if your raised beds were 25+ feet long then a tape system would make more sense. Rain-flo sells the best drip tape kits that I've found and have a great price. Their large kit held up for 6 years before this season and I had to order a roll of new tape.
I think both have their place - for long straight beds, (like those I see in other youtube channels - 20-40 feet long sometimes) drip tape is probably the way to go. For someone like me with a small suburban lot, I need the round tubing that I can wind around my various plants, or in my small raised beds where I only need 2-3 feet and I already have the brown 1/4" tubing on hand for that..
I'm using tape this year, watering for long periods, but once every two days or more. This makes the plant's root go deep to get that last bit of moisture.
We have used both. Hands down tape is my preference. But you have to buy professional quality to avoid leakage. We like 4” for most garden beds and 12” for things like potatoes, tomatoes, brassica etc but use what you have. DripWorks is where we shop
dripworks fan here, too. And tape. We've used 12", 6" & now 4" in our 20x100' hoop house. They have vastly improved the end caps in the 10 years we've used them. In a smaller space I could see where tubes might be best but it's automatic now to walk the hoop each morning straightening out the drip lines whilst saying good morning to everything planted along the way. Plus, they are easily bendable/moveable when something grows larger than expected & you need to detour.
Tomorrow will 2 weeks since I stopped watering my tom plants in the solo cups. They seem to have dried out and so I will water again tomorrow morning. The jalapeno plants seem to love the mix I used, so will see if repotting the Tom plants to a mix higher in coco-cuir (2 to 1) and more perlite did the trick. They will either thrive again or will drown. I look forward to more on the drip v tube subject. I think I'm leaning tube and will have to make my purchase soon.
Brian Drip Works and Drip Depot both sell stainless steel crimping clamps in 1/2"tube ,3/4"tube, and 1" oval. They are 1/10 the price of hose clamps. The only drawback is they are permanent. You will need a crimping tool a one time purchase. They are super easy and quick to install. I just switched to tube this year I like it much better than tape. The only drawback is your tube should not be longer that 30' per run per manufactures recommendations.
I invested a lot of money in drip tape for my 10 raised beds when I bought my current home 5 yrs ago at the advice of a local TH-camr. It was the biggest waste of money and water. The water didn’t spread, it just went down to the bottom of my 1’, 1.5’, and 2.5’ high beds and created a soggy mess around the beds. I replace them ALL with drip line and have been growing tons of food since. Drip tape is designed for farms/in-ground gardens.
You can get drip tape with 6” spacing. I didn’t really hear why you prefer the drip tube. All I took home was you don’t like using a tube header (don’t you have this with drip tube too?).
Did drop tube produce more lateral spread? I’m curious how that would happen. Isn’t this a characteristic of your soil- which may have been overly dry and hydrophobic? Did you cover with mulch?
I haven't used the tape. It was interesting to see. I have used the tube and it could be the brand I used but it literally breaks all the time. Which drives me crazy. Last year I gave up and started watering by hand because I was using as much time fixing the tube as I would be standing there with my hose. I watched your other video and I think I'll try the tube again this year. 🤞
I use both in my garden as they were not designed to one fits all. For me it depends on the plant spacing needs. If i am doing plants like peas, I use 4" dip tape, if for plants with greater spacing, drip tube. Tape is can be used for for areas she you need bends, you just have to plan for it or use the proper parts to allow for a change in course of path. About 70% of my garden is Tape and the remainder Tube. I'm a fan of the tape.
I put in drip tubes this year. The fittings were a little more expensive than I expected. So far we like it, though we might switch from the 12 inch drip to the 6 inch drip at some point.
My biggest (and undoubtedly, silliest) issue with drip tube is that my dogs find it irresistibly chewable! So I have to check the perimeter of our yard, periodically, in search of geysers! I plan to switch to drip tape for the dog-accessible part of the yard. I did experment with drip tape in my garden beds last year. I experienced many strange hiccups (mostly due to User Error). In the end, I just shut off that valve completely. (I had more important priorities to deal with). My friends helped me re-jigger the system, so hopefully, I'll actually grow something to harvest!
I use both. I use compression fittings for my 1/2" line. The drip tape comes in different GPH. I use both .46 and .25. I find it cheaper to replace lines with tube. My 1/4" tube would clog and my watering was wonky mid season. Don't forget the reducer. Drip tape needs to go down to 15psi or lower.
Drip tape or drip tubes - depends on what vegs/herbs you are growing - and which vegs are water hogs (lettuces, melons, squash, zucchini, etc). The 8-inch drips would be used for less-watering needs of crops, while the 6-inch drips would be used for high-watering vegs. Also they should NOT be surface drips, but subsurface drips. Why water the surface that the sun dries out, or the wind evaporates the water - when putting the water down at the root's depth - saves all of the water and irrigation needs. Design your beds for drip tubes and drip tapes according to your veg needs. Design your beds according to the low-water and high-water needs of those vegs in those designated tube or tape beds. Both are viable options - when properly used with the properly planted vegs/herbs.
Also if you have big vegs (cabbages, collards, melons etc) that are greatly spaced apart - then having the more distant drip water spots facilitate those bigger vegs vs drip tapes. So properly use big vegs with drip tubes, and small vegs with drip tapes.
I think the manufacture instructions state to install the drip tube on top of the soil surface. It needs to be below the mulch but not below the soil. I think it says that the soil can clog the emitters. You should be watering in the morning and if you have mulch covering the soil, it should prevent evaporation. They also sell 1/4 inch valves and 1/2 valves so you can decrease the water output. My drip tubes are connected to the main line so I have to use a ton of 1/4 drip valves. If I were to do it over again, I would have probably split the 1/2 tube from the main line and put a valve on that. Sometimes you design your beds with the intended veggies but need to deviate. This is where the valves come in handy. Or when you want to under water tomatoes or water melons.
I put in drip tubing and have not been thrilled with it. My roll had kinks in it and I found it to be too stiff to where it didn't want to lay flat. Another issue I have had is my water periodically gets sand in it and it somehow escapes the screening. I always felt there were emitters that were clogged and I couldn't see them. This year I have moved back to above ground sprinkle emitters. They cover more area and are easier for me to putz around with. I can change out the heads to fit my needs. I do recommend choosing your brand and sticking to it. The minor differences in fittings will otherwise drive you mad.
I use drip tape in my raised veggie beds ... strawberries, peppers, tomatoes ... works great. I forgot to use a pressure regulator my first time ... dont skip that!! It works great under mulch too. Just get the thickest material you can, and to get the best coverage, get it with 4 inch spacing. Lastly, get all the components from the same manufacturer. Zero regrets. I do use drip tube in rings around standalone plants...like a rose. That works great because I can make it into a circle and resize it as needed to keep the water at the dripline.
Will you list out for us all the points you like about drip tape and all the points you don't like about it, please? I am looking into irrigation systems now. A friend of mine loves drip tape, but from what I've been learning I'm actually leaning towards the drip tubing, personally. But please remember, everyone will have different needs. Some the drip tube will be better and some the drip tape will be better. It's personal preference too! Don't feel bad if you end up not liking the drip tape so much. Thanks for sharing!! :)
OH BRIAN, I SAW YOUR VIDEO LAST NIGHT ON YOUR 13 MONTH TOUR THERE. IT WAS AMAZING HOW BEAUTIFUL. HOW MUCH YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED IN JUST A SHORT TIME. SO FASCINATING. I PRAY FATHER GOD KEEPS HIS HAND OF PROTECTION ON YOU AND YOUR FAMILY IN JESUS NAME 🙏 🙌 ❤ LOVE YALL. ❤
Have you tried 1/2 in pvc you don’t need to use presser reducers just glue the end caps. Connect to valves on each line compression fit each line but you do glue the valves to each line. Drill 1/16 in holes how ever you like them. Works great you can turn each line off when not in use and can also remove each line for a different holed line. Thanks for all you do. By the way you can also adjust your valves. Drill holes on both sides of pipe. I have 8 foot beds. Costs about 20.00 per bed.
I favor drip tubing, as it is more versatile for placement. Long-straight runs like in a raised veggie bed the drip tape works just as well as tubing, but for odd runs and around trees / shrubs the tubing is best. Like for Brian's English cottage garden, the tubing would likely be the way to go given the diversity of plantings.
Have you looked at Mittleider gardening yet? They use PVC with drilled holes. Multi year usage. No squirrel issues. Simple install. You do not need hose clamps. You can add shut-off anywhere.
Because I don't plant entirely in rows the tube works best for me. I can weave it in and out of various plantings. I also plant hanging pots so the tube works best for that.
The real solution is that "one size does not fits all". Tube and tape have appropriate uses. After watching a zillion videos I made it WAY too complicated - every size tubing, drip tape, fitting, etc possible. A friend came over and said I was going about it wrong. I returned $500 of fittings and all tubes except 1/2" and the drip tape. The 1/2" went everywhere except raised beds and around the pool where we used the tape (12" holes). A neighbor uses 1/4" and it looks like a tangle of tubing. LOL After installation I had to go back and flip all the hoses so that the holes were "up" . Live and learn.
I put in drip tub in my last garden and I couldn't find all the fittings, for me was a night mare and mainly because my husband and my son don't have the patience to fiddle with it and I can't do it.. ❤🤗
Since most of my garden is raised beds drip tape works best for me. I do have areas where my berries and grapes are growing where I use drip tube as the runs are not straight. Overall I've been very pleased with the performance and ease of installation of the drip tape.
In our garden and raised beds we use both the drip tape and the drip tube. Each has a purpose and we like the versatility of both. Say like now our Brassicas growing in 30 foot rows spaced a 18". Once all the Brassicas are harvested. We will take out the drip tape and mark and save the old tape. Then installing drip tape with six inch spacing and planting corn. It just takes a few minutes. Whereas using drip tubing that would no be the case. Then this is our garden and not yours.
Hi Aileen!! Will you please explain what the purpose is for each one? I'm looking into what to do and I'd love to learn more about that! It will make it easier to figure out what I'd like to do. Thank you!
@@mml5794 It would help if I had a better idea as to what your gardening situation is now. Right now we 20 rows (8-25ft and 12-30ft). Half inch tubing across the outside of the rows. Then Teed off to 5/8 drip tape. Depending on the plants sometimes 18" spacing for the emitters and as narrow as six inches. We have 34 containers for tomato plants. 1/2 tubing along the rows then 1/4" tubing into the container and teed off with 2 one gallon per hour emitters. We also have such for more containers and our fruit trees and bushes. Really saves time and water once everything is set up!
@@aileensmith3062 Wish I could put pics in here. (I'm not very tech savvy! ) I'll try to describe it as best as I can. 2 - 16' beds (4' × 16') with hoops (cattle pannel in the middle of each) connecting them. Tomatoes growing up the cattle panels and greens (arugula, spinach & kale) growing in the 2' beds on each side of the cattle panels. Another 2 - 8' beds same as above with tomatoes. I'll be putting pole beans on our other 8' cattle panel trellis. Not sure what I'll put in the beds with those. Cucumbers on the 2 - 4' trellises. Then I have self-wicking buckets for my determinate tomatoes, peppers & summer squash varieties.
I went to drip tape this spring for first time. I’ve used drip systems for year but tired of emitters blowing out while I was away & water spewing for days. The drip tape in my in ground garden was easy but my squash plants are not grieving several have died after weekly watering & I’m guessing over watering? Wet cool in May so hoping the few still alive respond to June’s sunny 90 degrees!
Ok you did this a year ago. I would like to see what you now and also actually go through difference and pros and con of each. I see some comments saying linr for raised and tape for long tows of inground. May talk about the little sprinkles amitters to. Setting up my watering soon systems soon and been wondering what is the real differencances between lines and tape.
I had 1/4" drip tube in my 8' long beds last year but this year we replaced our aging beds with long beds (between 20 and 32 feet) and the problem with putting drip tube in the NEW beds is I would need multiple header rows because of run length limitations with dripline (about 18 feet with the closer spaced emitters). I can do that as I have the supplies, but it is a consideration. 15 mil drip tape is available with 6" emitter spacing and similar flow rates to the drip tube (actually the drip tape offers me .25gph which is what I will use). The other argument for drip tape is I can shut off individual lines.........I am looking at 15 mil driplines with 6" spacing and .25 GPH flow rate. I should have a verdict by the end of next season. This season was our first year with the new beds and I hand watered (ungh, I sure missed my drip irrigation from the year before)
Trevor at Lazy Dog Farms almost exclusively uses drip tape. However, what I have seen him do is trench, lay the tape in the trench, cover it and then plant on top of the tape allowing his plants to get water at the root level.
Thank you for this video. I have been thinking about giving up because I found the tubing so complicated but I like this drip tape it makes so much more sense to me or at least watching you do it did lol we’ll see if I can copy you.
I went with drip tube because it can work with very low water pressure of a rain harvesting system. Flag emitters can work with less than 1 psi. Other kinds of drip tube and drip tape emitters generally need a minimum of 5 psi, and sometimes even closer to 15 psi. At 1 psi flag emitters are slower than normal, but they still work. I just leave them running longer to make up for the slower speed.
Thanks so much for this info, Ron. I have rain barrels I use to water my vegetable beds and most of them are at or close to garden level so there's very little pressure. Flag emiters seem expensive though for vegetables, is is necessary to use emitters or do the holes in the tube work just as well?
@@veronicasanto4098 No, just the holes in the tubes probably won't work well. The emitters drip the water into the soil slowly, so water has time to soak in instead of running across the surface. Also, if you just use holes in the tubes the water will run out the holes so fast you might not get any water all the way to the end of the lines. You might get lots of water coming out really fast at the start of the line, and almost none at the end of the line. The emitters give enough resistance that the water pressure can get water all the way to the end of the water lines, and it all drips about equally slow. I recommend spacing emitters 6 inches apart across the beds. Like Brian discovered, every 8 inches is too far apart. I've only tried two brands of flag emitters, DIG brand, and a generic. The generic emitters clog up frequently and I need to clear some of them out all the time. I can't remember the last time one of the DIG brand flag emitters was clogged up. Emitters can be pricey when you buy small quantities, but they get cheaper when purchased in large volumes. Buying 25 emitters might cost you 25 cents each. Buy 100 and they cost 15 cents each. In any case, you are trading time and convenience for money. If it seems too expensive for vegetables, watering by hand is definitely cheap. But it's also nice to just turn the drip on or off, or set up a timer to do it for you.
Thanks Ron! I will look up that brand. I was only going off a Google search for flag emitters and the images that came up first said they were over $2, but now I see that the prices were for 10 packs. Should be worth it at that price.
It seems like such a hassle to install that I just keep hand watering. I only have one spigot in the back yard too, so I just get tired thinking about it. I wish it was all set up but it also gets very cold here in the winter. Also, I never organize my garden the same way annually. 1000 square foot garden.
I have only used drip line but have wondered about drip tape. I have seen on TH-cam tape being used in a traditional ground garden with straight rows. My garden is not like that. It is beds.
We have had drip tape for 3-4 years and this year decided to go with drip tube. The reason being that the tape was always spouting new holes so we'd have to replace that entire section. What a pain in the derriere.😂 I'm thinking the tube will be much sturdier.
I'm fairly new to gardening and I used 6 inch drip tape attached to 5/8 line. I was told to bury it 4 inches into the soil... but you didn't. 1- is 5/8" line too small? 2- should I dig up my line? I will be mulching. I'm in central CA and we had some unexpected cold weather so I just got my plants into ground. I'm over head watering because I don't think the shallow roots of new plants will reach the water under 4 inches of soil. Right? Thanks for your great tips!!!
Yes! I converted all my beds to containers. The tubing allows me to put “drip rings” around the plants/shrubs as needed. I find tubing to be more interchangeable. Meaning, I can (did) buy parts at big orange and big blue box stores and everything works fine. I sticking with tubing.
we looked locally for drop tube & couldn't find it. we have soaker hoses instead here. We have a faucet on each bed since we can't water everything at once due to water pressure. I like the hoses because I can wrap them around plants. I just need to find a better way to contain the hose octopus to each bed & inground enclosure
If you haven't done it yet, what about staggering the emitters/holes? Also, there is a way to use soaker hoses attached to the black irrigation tubing. I just don't remember how I did it, but I used it in my previous raised beds where I used to live. I'll have to figure that out again!
I’m confused now , you did a video with drip tube where you have a perimeter system for equal pressure, but no perimeter with drip tape. Also FYI I REALLY LOVE ALL YOU VIDEOS , you definitely are my number one creator on TH-cam because of your simplicity 👍
I don't care for drip tube except for a few places I have raised beds. I use Irritec P1 8 mill tape with the perma - loc fittings that I get from Drip Depot. Main garden is 75 x 200 all planted in rows. I have no problems. It was a game changer for me. I have it sectioned off in 3 zones run automatically with a pvc manifold system and timers. I also have my fertilizer infection right in line to fertilize thru drip tape. One suggestion would be stick to the same manufacturer. I struggled with the screw on tape end. So I use a row start with the on off valve, then at end I use the tape end clip that you just fold a couple times and insert into the clip. Zone 1 sits on top of the DeWitt Sunbelt fabric and doesn't change year to year. Zones 2 and 3 rotate so no fabric and I bury the drip tape in the planting furrow made by my Hoss wheel hoe. I am trying 15 mil tape this year to see if it lasts longer after pulling out of dirt at end of year
Hello! I am in the middle of creating a large raised bed garden. I have one 24' X 4' bed (on the end), nine 4 X 10' beds and 8 3' x 3' beds. I have watched videos endlessly on Drip Depot, drew the diagram to create the watering system and I am still confused. You cant just call DD which is driving me crazy. I have vacillated back and forth between tape and tube, wondered if I just need a timer with a two zone manifold or???? I am frozen without being able to make a decision and therefore my progress has stopped. Irrigation is the next step. The drip connectors he used seemed to be much more affordable and easier to do than using 70 T fittings that you would have to cut main pipe every 8-9 inches to use and also a shut off valve in the middle. so stressed out about it. Any advise from you or a resource company that could actually help me with the parts that I need to be most efficient and economical?
@@theresabates185 Travis at lazy dog farms has several videos on TH-cam about drip and last year he just did a video on setting up drip on raised beds. He also has the info on his website blog, where the parts are and you click it and it automatically takes you to drip depot and the part. The manifold portion I got from Curtis Stone urban farming on TH-cam way back in him collection. Another good one would be living traditions homestead on TH-cam. The videos would be from maybe 3 or so years ago. The drip video and the use of the DeWitt fabric is exactly where I started mine off of. Then I expanded. Drip depot also has diagrams and info on website at the bottom under diy systems and questions. Drip works is another company and they have diagrams too. Both you can finds but have to search for. On mine I run 1 in pipe under ground from house out to garden. Then at the end of that I have my homemade 4 way manifold with valves (looks exactly like the Curtis Stone one video) from that I have my 3/4 poly header tubing to each zone with it's own filter / pressure regulator combo and the tape plugs into the header pipe just like he showed here. I then have 1 line with no filter going to sprinkers over my lettuce to mist it throughout the day. But I am market growing so my area is big. I use only use raised beds for carrots and herbs. So my system would be different. Good luck it is easy once you get it. Just stick to one manufacturer. I use all Irritec and the perma loc fittings. You just cut poly and insert the poly loc tee or whatever and screw the loc nut. I don't use the worm clamps anywhere.
@@OrioleHomestead Thank you for the information. I have watched videos (you tube and Drip Depot) calculated water flows, GPM and studied product, drew diagrams, etc. until I am nuts! lol! I am usually pretty competent but this has me baffled. I am close to giving up so thank you. I will keep trying. 🤥
@@OrioleHomestead I very much appreciate your well thought out response. I am going to check out these resources. May Mother Nature bless your gardens! 🙂
@@theresabates185 I am sure you will figure it out. Like I said mine is pretty easy. 3/4 poly the whole width of garden. I have a tee at the middle point where my filter/regulator and water come in to keep water even left and right. Then drip tape then plugs into header. The only calculations I worry about is the gph calculation to set up zones( 3/4 pipe is good up to 480) which is alot. Basically in my opinion, run 3/4 pvc or poly pipe to each of the beds. Then use the drip header pipe and tape just like Brian did on this video. People get too caught up on calculations and make it too difficult. It is easy once done Get water how you want to the bed then start the system. In your case like I said lazy dog farm video or website would be your best bet. Last summer he has a couple videos of exactly settling up water to raised beds.The website has his exact fittings and system. I like his showing of exactly how to do to do it. He is also the son of the owner of Hoss tools. So he has knowledge of seeds and fertilizers and practices of a place you buy seeds from. He also used to do Hoss TH-cam videos before going out on his own. Good luck with your garden this year.
I am new to gardening/growing and I haven't purchased a watering system YET. What is your opinion on a soaker hose?? They seem to be a lot cheaper than a drip hose or drip tape system. As of right now I don't have a lot of garden space. Just 2 raised beds inside a greenhouse. Any advice is appreciated, thank you!
If you go to Hoss Tools, they have an irrigation kit for raised beds with everything you’ll need. Soaker hoses I’ve tried water very unevenly & didn’t last very long
I saw a video from 'Hoss Tools' when he planted his watermelon patch. He buried the drip tape directly under the seedlings, in several long rows. He also added his liquid fertilizer through the drip tape. It was very interesting. There are 2 videos where he talks about it. "Grow the best watermelons ever" " How Many Watermelons Do You Need To Plant?" I hope this helps.
I'm using 15mil Drip tape with 6 inch hole spacing for my raised beds. If I were doing something other than straight runs, I would consider tubing. But if I change my mind, I can switch 500' of runs for ~50 bucks - not the end of the world.
HI BRIAN!! I know this is not the subject of this video, but, how do you cook your fennel? You said you could cook it, and I knew you would do a great video on that topic! 😊 Thank you!
I grow a lot of vegetables in half barrels. I usually spend a couple hours every morning watering everything. I would like to have these be watered on a timer system. If I install the drip tube with the holes every 6 inches, how long would I need to set the timer for to be sure it was being adequately watered?
Newbie here. I put in a 17” tall 4’x8’ raised bed this year. Can I set up a drip tube to be connected to my lawn irrigation system so I can have it turn on /schedule like the lawn system?
Question i know you moved a while back. How did you do it. I mean move when you were going to leave all your produce with someone else. The reason I ask is I’m about to move and it’s frustrating me not wanting to plant anything for my summer garden knowing I’ll have to leave all my produce that I produce with the new homeowner
I use drip tubing. I have two complaints. I have very hard water and the emitters in the drip tube clog up. Will this happen with drip tape also? The other issue is the small connectors kill my fingers. There is a tiny difference in brands and that can make it worse also.
Excellent advise👏🏾So it sounds like I need to do some research as what drip system I need to invest in since I will have a combination of fabric grow bags, vertical grow-stalks and raised beds😊
Hi I have same situation also been trying to do research…… ugh lol Laura with garden answers buys from company called “Drip depot” I also watch video from the millennial Gardener good video also uses same company Drip tubing prob 🤷🏼♀️ will b r best plan Also for what it’s worth green stalk also just came out with a drip irrigation runs off of the side of the container you will have to check it out Hope my research helps with your research. Good luck.😊👍
I hate drip tape. You'll find if you have a large garden, that the tape gets nicked and you have a fountain going. Like you said, you have to be careful to get the same brand, my tape doesn't go over the fittings like your's did. I have to push and tease it over the fitting. The tube is a joy, round and round the trees and everywhere else I want it. You really have to work at damaging it. Tube for me! (I too, have a large spool of tape)
I recently installed drip tube with 0.5 gph emitters every 6 inches. Each tube was also also installed with 6 inch spacing. Unfortunately I still have very significant dry patches - even if I run the zone for 1 hour! I would have thought capillary action would have given me better coverage. I suspect that since my soil has EXCELLENT drainage, all the water is going straight down and does allow time for capillary action to draw water laterally. I think I might need to run line every 4 inches! Does this make sense? I am looking for constructive criticism. If I am looking at things incorrectly, please let me know. Is running drip tube for 1 hour excessive?
We have put drip tape in our raised bed that are about a foot or two apart and I have placed pots under the tubing that runs between the pots to catch the water. We used drip tubing for the individual pots which we feel like it is easier to control and no loss of water where it isn’t needed. We are trying to figure out now how often to schedule the watering and for how long. We are in Virginia where we get frequent rain but it is unpredictable and I don’t want to lose crops when we are out of town. We are growing tomatoes, cucumbers, romaine lettuce, onions, carrots and one lone pepper plant (I haven’t had very good luck in the past with peppers so I only have one to see if I can do better). Any suggestions on the timing for the watering? 8:53
Hi Brian!!! I have been trying to grow some small Daffodils, Iris, Crocus, beets and carrots in one big pot. The pot has drainage holes and all the plants are separated properly. They are also in part shade and sun, I let the soil dry out a little but I never let it get too rock hard. The plants were doing fine at first, but now they are starting to look brown, and the beets are turning pink and yellow. How can I help them get back to normal and grow healthy?
Generally the drip tape connects to the mainline tubing (usually 5/8" or 1") which runs back to the faucet where you have a header. The header is a backflow preventer, a pressure regulator, a filter, and an adapter to go from hose thread to the tubing. If you use a timer that goes into the header as well. The mainline tees off to reach various beds or rows. Often there are valves built in to the design so you can control which areas are watered or how much. Drip Depot has a lot of good info on their website.
I use 1/2” irrigation pipe in my whole garden. Header pipe at head of rows. Rows in garden are 3’ apart. Adjustable pop in spray heads every 3’. On my okra row. 1/2” runs full length of garden. But. I use 1/4” drip hose zip tied to the 1/2” pipe full length of garden. I plant my okra seeds right below 1/4” drip hose and thin when seeds pop up. My situation is on my rows except okra. It’s. Tomatoes n peppers n squash and zucchini. Hope this makes sense
@Randy Duke I'm just getting started with the raised beds. I did container gardening for the last 2 years (a newbie to veggies) and this year we bought 4 galvanized raised beds to try out. They are not very big. They are 67"L X 20"W X 10"H. Our back yard holds a lot of water in spring and fall so we thought this would help because when i tried to plant in the ground a few years ago everything drowned (hence the containers) lol If this works out well I plan to expand with larger beds next year
Soaker hoses have their disadvantages, mainly even distribution of the water. So a plus there for drip tapes, also overall the price is actually cheaper!
@Aileen Smith ok thank you! I have a drip irrigation system that I bought to try with my containers but never used it. I'll read up on it and see if that will put out enough water. I liked that it had a timer that I could "set and forget"
In my experience, soaker hoses deteriorate fast, get clogged easily, and worst for me can't be customized for length easily. I imagine they would work much better with collected rainwater and in partial shade.
I have been watching your videos all winter. I'm in Connecticut and have had to take pits and pieces from your information, which I love by the way. I'm going to go with the drip hose watering system this year. And I've watched two of your videos on it. In one you mentioned you learned to use the return flow rather then just running the 1/4 " hose and capping them off. I get that, what I don't get is how do you run it to the next bed? Can that return run to the next bed with a T or do I have to have another start over with another line from my main faucet? How do I water more than one bed at a time? What am I not understanding? Any help would be much appreciated.
I installed a drip tube system in my raised beds after watching Brian’s video…I’m far from an expert but here’s my 2 cents! Yes, you can connect your beds with a T, that’s what I did. I have my drip line running from the faucet at the house to my first bed which is several yards away so I dug a little trench so it is underground up to the bed. Then I used the elbows to run it up into the bed and ran the 1/2 inch line all around the inside perimeter of the bed and attached the 1/4# lines going across from one side to the other. At the far end of that bad I used a T and elbows to run the 1/2 in line up out of that bed, dug a little trench to the next bed so its underground again, and then elbows to get it up and into the next bed and did the same thing with the 1/2 in going around the perimeter and 1/4 inch lines across. I did put a shut off valve at the connection to the 2nd bed to turn that one off if I wanted to. But I either have to water only the first bed or both of them together (I can’t water the 2nd bed on its own the way I have it set up). I also ran a T off of the 1/2 line right after it comes out of the faucet and ran it up and along the edges of three 4 ft high raised beds that I use to grow lettuce, and put a shut off valve on that line so I can control how much water goes into those. Even though the water has to go up 4 feet it works fine. My Home Depot has a whole section with all the Drip Brand irrigation stuff - tubes, connectors, etc. My suggestion is that if you have a store that carries all that stuff, go spend a little time there just checking it out and see what they have. That should give you some ideas on what they have available, what it does and how you could apply it to your situation! Or, whatever brand of system you decide to use, go to their website and check out all their options. I agree with others who suggest using a reputable brand, not some brand just because it happens to be the cheapest. My husband and I did our installation and it was a bit of work but relatively simple, and I have not had any issues with ours since we installed it for the most part. Except for having to replace a few 1/4 in lines when I accidentally cut them with my Felco clippers! 😂 I did have some issues with the simple first timer I bought, but I called the company (Drip) and they were very helpful! Ended up returning that timer (think it was faulty and could only turn off/on once a day and I wanted more options) and got the digital one which was much better. Hope this all made sense and is helpful! We are very far apart, I live in Hawaii! :)
Cant help ya drip hose is all have used but I like it. I say the drip tape is a user friendly product for sure not sure but maybe squeeze clamps would be cheaper Thank You
I use mostly drip tape, cause it's the cheaper option, but I would have used the drip tube everywhere if I could. Our water has a lot of limestone in it and the drip tape holes get clogged with it. It's quite annoying honestly.
After doing a tonne of research over the winter of 2021/2022, I put drip tube into my raised beds last summer. Love it!! One of the things I did to ensure more even coverage was to cut and attach my drip tube so that the emitters in the drip tube were half way between the emitters of the adjacent tube, so that the emitter pattern was like an offset grid. (Not sure that I explained that right). It has allowed me to use 4 lines of drip tube with 12" spacing quite successfully in my 4' wide raised beds since that was all I could source at the time (Canada). I also splurged on the Permaloc fittings so I can undo/redo my set up if I like and they offered valves so that I can turn water on/off to individual beds. Admittedly, I have never worked with drip tape but I find that it looks a little clunky for raised beds that I want to look "pretty". It is my opinion that it is more suited for irrigating a rectangular field where the veggies are grown in long traditional rows where there isn't as great a need for as many changes in water flow direction. Thanks for your video review!
offset grid - Excellent tip!
Offset grid emitter pattern! That might be the solution to my problem of not being able to find drip tubing with emitters closer than 18" in my area here in Canada too. Thanks for sharing your solution.
Curious what emitter spacing drip tubing did you use?
@@jagdeeprandhawa4361 My drip tube has emitters spaced at 12". I purchased it on-line from Irrigation Direct Canada in Burlington, ON. I used 4 lines of this drip tube in 4' wide beds and set the automatic timer to water the beds for a half hour each day. I live in Niagara, ON where we get long spells of hot, humid weather and my beds are filled with 100% compost because I am lucky enough to have unlimited access to compost. This drip tube arrangement with this watering schedule kept everything growing great through the whole summer. This year, depending on the weather, I may experiment with setting my timer to water a little less to save more water. Good luck!
@@ctimms417 thanks mate!
I have about 3' wide beds and I am planning to set the drip emitter tube width wise about 1' apart. Here in BC, we have had a wetter and cooler spring so far but last couple of summers have been super hot. I will try the offset grid placement of the emitters and hope they will last me well in the summer. Keeping my fingers 🤞
Offsetting the emitters is brilliant!
I did drip tape for three years and spent a lot of time fixing leaks. Last year changed to drip tube, it was harder to put down but I only had a couple of leaks. So I give a thumbs up to tube.
I've used both drip tape and dripline tubing for several years. Each has it's niche and I still use both. My lines are all supplied by 1/2" mainline. I first used dripline with .5gph emitters on 6" spacing in both the garden raised beds and around the deck shrub plantings. We have brutal mid-summer's and even shrubs need constant irrigation where I live. The dripline worked just fine but I added some more beds and was at the limit of my water supply if I watered all the garden beds at the same time (240gph total). So I switched the garden beds to drip tape, 15mil P1 with emitters 6" spacing at .25gph per emitter. This let me water more beds and gave me more control as it doubled the time I needed to water so I could find tune it (I use a flow meter to confirm how much is being pushed out). Drip line was on the surface and drip tape is burried. The tape seems to be working better for us. I added a Ez-Flo and can push liquid fertilizers and micro out to the root zones as I plant right on the tape. Just my take, but I think both have their place. Both my drip line and tape came from Drip Depot. Tape is Irritec P1, and the tubing was the 1/4" that they sell (no brand given?). I also like the mainline connection pieces with on/off valves for the tape better than the 1/4" valves. I would advise folks to stick with name brand products and not the China kit of the day for drip irrigation.
I always, always, always find your videos informative and beneficial. Thanks Brian.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks so much for sharing!
Don't forget the filter! Generally you can just measure your pressure to make sure it's within spec. Usually it is. The filter is more important for a problem free installation. If you're installing droppers put in-line so that the ¼" distribution tubes are at low pressure. For irrigation contractors that's a must since your clients will be without a system until you can make repairs.
I'm a retired landscaper and used Drip since day one when you had to order the parts from Israel. I don't think you needed better coverage. Wicking to where plants take it up should be adequate. Not sure if your comparison is based on ¼" Drip Tubing. If so you need to tie it into half inch feeders because the flow drops off gradually. You need to test!
I haven't used Drip Tape much because it doesn't seem as rugged. The only thing I can say is that squirrels will be a problem with any system. Bury and mark your lines or you may end up doing constant maintenance and after all one of the goals is to minimize maintenance time and parts.
The filter is super important. Clogged emitters is a real issue .
What timing! I spent all day today finishing up the installation of all the drip tubing in my new garden (upsizing from 80 sq ft to 145 sq ft). I’m in zone 9b SoCal & ultimately decided on the tubing after watching a lot of hot weather gardeners say the tape didn’t last, even with mulch, in the intense sun. I’m looking forward to seeing how you feel at the end of the season.
Thanks Brian for all of the videos on drip irrigation. I finally took the plunge and installed it today. I used your videos and did it all by myself without any help from my husband.
Great job!
Well. By my experience and watching your video. I’m back to liking my conventional 1/2” irrigation hose with pop in adjustable water flow heads. I adjust each plant as to its needs for that particular plant time. I can make them drip or spray. Or just shutoff. I can pop in a 1/4” fitting to go to containers with any fitting I want. Loving all the learning videos.
For raised beds use drip tubing and for large gardens planted in long rows use drip tape. I would never use tape on a raised bed. I have 12 raised 4x8 beds I run drip tube on and I have 3/4 of an acre worth of tilled garden that I use drip tape irrigation on. My only exception to that rule would be if your raised beds were 25+ feet long then a tape system would make more sense. Rain-flo sells the best drip tape kits that I've found and have a great price. Their large kit held up for 6 years before this season and I had to order a roll of new tape.
I think both have their place - for long straight beds, (like those I see in other youtube channels - 20-40 feet long sometimes) drip tape is probably the way to go. For someone like me with a small suburban lot, I need the round tubing that I can wind around my various plants, or in my small raised beds where I only need 2-3 feet and I already have the brown 1/4" tubing on hand for that..
We decided to go the drip tube route and will be installing it this weekend.
I'm using tape this year, watering for long periods, but once every two days or more. This makes the plant's root go deep to get that last bit of moisture.
We have used both. Hands down tape is my preference. But you have to buy professional quality to avoid leakage. We like 4” for most garden beds and 12” for things like potatoes, tomatoes, brassica etc but use what you have. DripWorks is where we shop
dripworks fan here, too. And tape. We've used 12", 6" & now 4" in our 20x100' hoop house. They have vastly improved the end caps in the 10 years we've used them. In a smaller space I could see where tubes might be best but it's automatic now to walk the hoop each morning straightening out the drip lines whilst saying good morning to everything planted along the way. Plus, they are easily bendable/moveable when something grows larger than expected & you need to detour.
Tomorrow will 2 weeks since I stopped watering my tom plants in the solo cups. They seem to have dried out and so I will water again tomorrow morning. The jalapeno plants seem to love the mix I used, so will see if repotting the Tom plants to a mix higher in coco-cuir (2 to 1) and more perlite did the trick. They will either thrive again or will drown.
I look forward to more on the drip v tube subject. I think I'm leaning tube and will have to make my purchase soon.
Brian Drip Works and Drip Depot both sell stainless steel crimping clamps in 1/2"tube ,3/4"tube, and 1" oval. They are 1/10 the price of hose clamps. The only drawback is they are permanent.
You will need a crimping tool a one time purchase. They are super easy and quick to install. I just switched to tube this year I like it much better than tape. The only drawback is your tube should not be longer that 30' per run per manufactures recommendations.
I invested a lot of money in drip tape for my 10 raised beds when I bought my current home 5 yrs ago at the advice of a local TH-camr. It was the biggest waste of money and water. The water didn’t spread, it just went down to the bottom of my 1’, 1.5’, and 2.5’ high beds and created a soggy mess around the beds. I replace them ALL with drip line and have been growing tons of food since. Drip tape is designed for farms/in-ground gardens.
What can you recommend. I’m looking for something for my raised beds?
@@garden_therapy_nj drip line spaghetti line) with openings 6” apart connected to 1/2” poly tubing. You can get both at Home Depot.
@@terigeorge5545 thanks so much!
You can get drip tape with 6” spacing. I didn’t really hear why you prefer the drip tube. All I took home was you don’t like using a tube header (don’t you have this with drip tube too?).
Did drop tube produce more lateral spread? I’m curious how that would happen. Isn’t this a characteristic of your soil- which may have been overly dry and hydrophobic? Did you cover with mulch?
I haven't used the tape. It was interesting to see. I have used the tube and it could be the brand I used but it literally breaks all the time. Which drives me crazy. Last year I gave up and started watering by hand because I was using as much time fixing the tube as I would be standing there with my hose. I watched your other video and I think I'll try the tube again this year. 🤞
Drip tape for row crops but drip tube for everything else since it's more versatile.
I use both in my garden as they were not designed to one fits all. For me it depends on the plant spacing needs. If i am doing plants like peas, I use 4" dip tape, if for plants with greater spacing, drip tube. Tape is can be used for for areas she you need bends, you just have to plan for it or use the proper parts to allow for a change in course of path. About 70% of my garden is Tape and the remainder Tube. I'm a fan of the tape.
Beautiful views of the mountains. I’m from Il. We have permanent irrigation for our yard but I still use drip tape.
I put in drip tubes this year. The fittings were a little more expensive than I expected. So far we like it, though we might switch from the 12 inch drip to the 6 inch drip at some point.
Stock up on the 6 inch drip lines. They are so versatile for raised beds, bushes, small pots, and trees 😂
My biggest (and undoubtedly, silliest) issue with drip tube is that my dogs find it irresistibly chewable! So I have to check the perimeter of our yard, periodically, in search of geysers!
I plan to switch to drip tape for the dog-accessible part of the yard.
I did experment with drip tape in my garden beds last year. I experienced many strange hiccups (mostly due to User Error). In the end, I just shut off that valve completely. (I had more important priorities to deal with).
My friends helped me re-jigger the system, so hopefully, I'll actually grow something to harvest!
For real.
I use both. I use compression fittings for my 1/2" line. The drip tape comes in different GPH. I use both .46 and .25. I find it cheaper to replace lines with tube. My 1/4" tube would clog and my watering was wonky mid season. Don't forget the reducer. Drip tape needs to go down to 15psi or lower.
I'm jealous of your view! The mountains in the back are beautiful
I haven’t used both, but I love my drip cake and I am in South Texas. No complaints here.
Drip tape or drip tubes - depends on what vegs/herbs you are growing - and which vegs are water hogs (lettuces, melons, squash, zucchini, etc). The 8-inch drips would be used for less-watering needs of crops, while the 6-inch drips would be used for high-watering vegs. Also they should NOT be surface drips, but subsurface drips. Why water the surface that the sun dries out, or the wind evaporates the water - when putting the water down at the root's depth - saves all of the water and irrigation needs. Design your beds for drip tubes and drip tapes according to your veg needs. Design your beds according to the low-water and high-water needs of those vegs in those designated tube or tape beds. Both are viable options - when properly used with the properly planted vegs/herbs.
Also if you have big vegs (cabbages, collards, melons etc) that are greatly spaced apart - then having the more distant drip water spots facilitate those bigger vegs vs drip tapes. So properly use big vegs with drip tubes, and small vegs with drip tapes.
I think the manufacture instructions state to install the drip tube on top of the soil surface. It needs to be below the mulch but not below the soil. I think it says that the soil can clog the emitters. You should be watering in the morning and if you have mulch covering the soil, it should prevent evaporation.
They also sell 1/4 inch valves and 1/2 valves so you can decrease the water output. My drip tubes are connected to the main line so I have to use a ton of 1/4 drip valves. If I were to do it over again, I would have probably split the 1/2 tube from the main line and put a valve on that. Sometimes you design your beds with the intended veggies but need to deviate. This is where the valves come in handy. Or when you want to under water tomatoes or water melons.
I put in drip tubing and have not been thrilled with it. My roll had kinks in it and I found it to be too stiff to where it didn't want to lay flat. Another issue I have had is my water periodically gets sand in it and it somehow escapes the screening. I always felt there were emitters that were clogged and I couldn't see them. This year I have moved back to above ground sprinkle emitters. They cover more area and are easier for me to putz around with. I can change out the heads to fit my needs. I do recommend choosing your brand and sticking to it. The minor differences in fittings will otherwise drive you mad.
I use drip tape in my raised veggie beds ... strawberries, peppers, tomatoes ... works great. I forgot to use a pressure regulator my first time ... dont skip that!! It works great under mulch too. Just get the thickest material you can, and to get the best coverage, get it with 4 inch spacing. Lastly, get all the components from the same manufacturer. Zero regrets.
I do use drip tube in rings around standalone plants...like a rose. That works great because I can make it into a circle and resize it as needed to keep the water at the dripline.
Will you list out for us all the points you like about drip tape and all the points you don't like about it, please? I am looking into irrigation systems now. A friend of mine loves drip tape, but from what I've been learning I'm actually leaning towards the drip tubing, personally. But please remember, everyone will have different needs. Some the drip tube will be better and some the drip tape will be better. It's personal preference too! Don't feel bad if you end up not liking the drip tape so much. Thanks for sharing!! :)
OH BRIAN, I SAW YOUR VIDEO LAST NIGHT ON YOUR 13 MONTH TOUR THERE. IT WAS AMAZING HOW BEAUTIFUL. HOW MUCH YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED IN JUST A SHORT TIME. SO FASCINATING. I PRAY FATHER GOD KEEPS HIS HAND OF PROTECTION ON YOU AND YOUR FAMILY IN JESUS NAME 🙏 🙌 ❤ LOVE YALL. ❤
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you ❤️
Have you tried 1/2 in pvc you don’t need to use presser reducers just glue the end caps. Connect to valves on each line compression fit each line but you do glue the valves to each line. Drill 1/16 in holes how ever you like them. Works great you can turn each line off when not in use and can also remove each line for a different holed line. Thanks for all you do. By the way you can also adjust your valves. Drill holes on both sides of pipe. I have 8 foot beds. Costs about 20.00 per bed.
I favor drip tubing, as it is more versatile for placement. Long-straight runs like in a raised veggie bed the drip tape works just as well as tubing, but for odd runs and around trees / shrubs the tubing is best. Like for Brian's English cottage garden, the tubing would likely be the way to go given the diversity of plantings.
Have you looked at Mittleider gardening yet? They use PVC with drilled holes. Multi year usage. No squirrel issues. Simple install. You do not need hose clamps. You can add shut-off anywhere.
Because I don't plant entirely in rows the tube works best for me. I can weave it in and out of various plantings. I also plant hanging pots so the tube works best for that.
The real solution is that "one size does not fits all". Tube and tape have appropriate uses. After watching a zillion videos I made it WAY too complicated - every size tubing, drip tape, fitting, etc possible. A friend came over and said I was going about it wrong. I returned $500 of fittings and all tubes except 1/2" and the drip tape. The 1/2" went everywhere except raised beds and around the pool where we used the tape (12" holes). A neighbor uses 1/4" and it looks like a tangle of tubing. LOL After installation I had to go back and flip all the hoses so that the holes were "up" . Live and learn.
I put in drip tub in my last garden and I couldn't find all the fittings, for me was a night mare and mainly because my husband and my son don't have the patience to fiddle with it and I can't do it.. ❤🤗
Since most of my garden is raised beds drip tape works best for me. I do have areas where my berries and grapes are growing where I use drip tube as the runs are not straight. Overall I've been very pleased with the performance and ease of installation of the drip tape.
In our garden and raised beds we use both the drip tape and the drip tube. Each has a purpose and we like the versatility of both. Say like now our Brassicas growing in 30 foot rows spaced a 18". Once all the Brassicas are harvested. We will take out the drip tape and mark and save the old tape. Then installing drip tape with six inch spacing and planting corn. It just takes a few minutes. Whereas using drip tubing that would no be the case. Then this is our garden and not yours.
Ohhh... I like that
Hi Aileen!! Will you please explain what the purpose is for each one? I'm looking into what to do and I'd love to learn more about that! It will make it easier to figure out what I'd like to do. Thank you!
@@mml5794 It would help if I had a better idea as to what your gardening situation is now. Right now we 20 rows (8-25ft and 12-30ft). Half inch tubing across the outside of the rows. Then Teed off to 5/8 drip tape. Depending on the plants sometimes 18" spacing for the emitters and as narrow as six inches. We have 34 containers for tomato plants. 1/2 tubing along the rows then 1/4" tubing into the container and teed off with 2 one gallon per hour emitters. We also have such for more containers and our fruit trees and bushes. Really saves time and water once everything is set up!
@@aileensmith3062 Wish I could put pics in here. (I'm not very tech savvy! ) I'll try to describe it as best as I can.
2 - 16' beds (4' × 16') with hoops (cattle pannel in the middle of each) connecting them. Tomatoes growing up the cattle panels and greens (arugula, spinach & kale) growing in the 2' beds on each side of the cattle panels.
Another 2 - 8' beds same as above with tomatoes.
I'll be putting pole beans on our other 8' cattle panel trellis. Not sure what I'll put in the beds with those.
Cucumbers on the 2 - 4' trellises.
Then I have self-wicking buckets for my determinate tomatoes, peppers & summer squash varieties.
@@mml5794 Still not sure as to what type(s) of tubing that you are using!
I went to drip tape this spring for first time. I’ve used drip systems for year but tired of emitters blowing out while I was away & water spewing for days. The drip tape in my in ground garden was easy but my squash plants are not grieving several have died after weekly watering & I’m guessing over watering? Wet cool in May so hoping the few still alive respond to June’s sunny 90 degrees!
Ok you did this a year ago. I would like to see what you now and also actually go through difference and pros and con of each. I see some comments saying linr for raised and tape for long tows of inground. May talk about the little sprinkles amitters to. Setting up my watering soon systems soon and been wondering what is the real differencances between lines and tape.
I had 1/4" drip tube in my 8' long beds last year but this year we replaced our aging beds with long beds (between 20 and 32 feet) and the problem with putting drip tube in the NEW beds is I would need multiple header rows because of run length limitations with dripline (about 18 feet with the closer spaced emitters). I can do that as I have the supplies, but it is a consideration. 15 mil drip tape is available with 6" emitter spacing and similar flow rates to the drip tube (actually the drip tape offers me .25gph which is what I will use). The other argument for drip tape is I can shut off individual lines.........I am looking at 15 mil driplines with 6" spacing and .25 GPH flow rate. I should have a verdict by the end of next season. This season was our first year with the new beds and I hand watered (ungh, I sure missed my drip irrigation from the year before)
Trevor at Lazy Dog Farms almost exclusively uses drip tape. However, what I have seen him do is trench, lay the tape in the trench, cover it and then plant on top of the tape allowing his plants to get water at the root level.
Thank you for this video. I have been thinking about giving up because I found the tubing so complicated but I like this drip tape it makes so much more sense to me or at least watching you do it did lol we’ll see if I can copy you.
I went with drip tube because it can work with very low water pressure of a rain harvesting system. Flag emitters can work with less than 1 psi. Other kinds of drip tube and drip tape emitters generally need a minimum of 5 psi, and sometimes even closer to 15 psi. At 1 psi flag emitters are slower than normal, but they still work. I just leave them running longer to make up for the slower speed.
Thanks so much for this info, Ron. I have rain barrels I use to water my vegetable beds and most of them are at or close to garden level so there's very little pressure. Flag emiters seem expensive though for vegetables, is is necessary to use emitters or do the holes in the tube work just as well?
@@veronicasanto4098 No, just the holes in the tubes probably won't work well. The emitters drip the water into the soil slowly, so water has time to soak in instead of running across the surface. Also, if you just use holes in the tubes the water will run out the holes so fast you might not get any water all the way to the end of the lines. You might get lots of water coming out really fast at the start of the line, and almost none at the end of the line. The emitters give enough resistance that the water pressure can get water all the way to the end of the water lines, and it all drips about equally slow.
I recommend spacing emitters 6 inches apart across the beds. Like Brian discovered, every 8 inches is too far apart.
I've only tried two brands of flag emitters, DIG brand, and a generic. The generic emitters clog up frequently and I need to clear some of them out all the time. I can't remember the last time one of the DIG brand flag emitters was clogged up.
Emitters can be pricey when you buy small quantities, but they get cheaper when purchased in large volumes. Buying 25 emitters might cost you 25 cents each. Buy 100 and they cost 15 cents each. In any case, you are trading time and convenience for money. If it seems too expensive for vegetables, watering by hand is definitely cheap. But it's also nice to just turn the drip on or off, or set up a timer to do it for you.
Thanks Ron! I will look up that brand. I was only going off a Google search for flag emitters and the images that came up first said they were over $2, but now I see that the prices were for 10 packs. Should be worth it at that price.
A topic I needed covered! Thanks 🙏🏼
It seems like such a hassle to install that I just keep hand watering. I only have one spigot in the back yard too, so I just get tired thinking about it. I wish it was all set up but it also gets very cold here in the winter. Also, I never organize my garden the same way annually. 1000 square foot garden.
I have only used drip line but have wondered about drip tape. I have seen on TH-cam tape being used in a traditional ground garden with straight rows. My garden is not like that. It is beds.
Could you do a tutorial on growing alyssum? I have trouble with it and yours looks gorgeous. Love this and all vids from you!
We have had drip tape for 3-4 years and this year decided to go with drip tube. The reason being that the tape was always spouting new holes so we'd have to replace that entire section. What a pain in the derriere.😂 I'm thinking the tube will be much sturdier.
I'm fairly new to gardening and I used 6 inch drip tape attached to 5/8 line. I was told to bury it 4 inches into the soil... but you didn't.
1- is 5/8" line too small?
2- should I dig up my line? I will be mulching.
I'm in central CA and we had some unexpected cold weather so I just got my plants into ground. I'm over head watering because I don't think the shallow roots of new plants will reach the water under 4 inches of soil. Right?
Thanks for your great tips!!!
Would this work for containers, like grow bags?
Yes! I converted all my beds to containers. The tubing allows me to put “drip rings” around the plants/shrubs as needed. I find tubing to be more interchangeable. Meaning, I can (did) buy parts at big orange and big blue box stores and everything works fine. I sticking with tubing.
You moved!!!! You have property I'm so happy for you and jelly!!
we looked locally for drop tube & couldn't find it. we have soaker hoses instead here. We have a faucet on each bed since we can't water everything at once due to water pressure. I like the hoses because I can wrap them around plants.
I just need to find a better way to contain the hose octopus to each bed & inground enclosure
If you haven't done it yet, what about staggering the emitters/holes? Also, there is a way to use soaker hoses attached to the black irrigation tubing. I just don't remember how I did it, but I used it in my previous raised beds where I used to live. I'll have to figure that out again!
Thanks Brian.🌷💚🙃
Nice, I was looking at adding more to mine too
Never used tape but a friend who works for the Ag Dept said it deteriorates quickly.
I’m confused now , you did a video with drip tube where you have a perimeter system for equal pressure, but no perimeter with drip tape.
Also FYI
I REALLY LOVE ALL YOU VIDEOS , you definitely are my number one creator on TH-cam because of your simplicity 👍
Thank you. Yes. With the drip tape you don't need to do that. Tape can handle long rows without a reduction in flow
I don't care for drip tube except for a few places I have raised beds. I use Irritec P1 8 mill tape with the perma - loc fittings that I get from Drip Depot. Main garden is 75 x 200 all planted in rows. I have no problems. It was a game changer for me. I have it sectioned off in 3 zones run automatically with a pvc manifold system and timers. I also have my fertilizer infection right in line to fertilize thru drip tape. One suggestion would be stick to the same manufacturer. I struggled with the screw on tape end. So I use a row start with the on off valve, then at end I use the tape end clip that you just fold a couple times and insert into the clip.
Zone 1 sits on top of the DeWitt Sunbelt fabric and doesn't change year to year. Zones 2 and 3 rotate so no fabric and I bury the drip tape in the planting furrow made by my Hoss wheel hoe. I am trying 15 mil tape this year to see if it lasts longer after pulling out of dirt at end of year
Hello! I am in the middle of creating a large raised bed garden. I have one 24' X 4' bed (on the end), nine 4 X 10' beds and 8 3' x 3' beds. I have watched videos endlessly on Drip Depot, drew the diagram to create the watering system and I am still confused. You cant just call DD which is driving me crazy. I have vacillated back and forth between tape and tube, wondered if I just need a timer with a two zone manifold or???? I am frozen without being able to make a decision and therefore my progress has stopped. Irrigation is the next step. The drip connectors he used seemed to be much more affordable and easier to do than using 70 T fittings that you would have to cut main pipe every 8-9 inches to use and also a shut off valve in the middle. so stressed out about it. Any advise from you or a resource company that could actually help me with the parts that I need to be most efficient and economical?
@@theresabates185 Travis at lazy dog farms has several videos on TH-cam about drip and last year he just did a video on setting up drip on raised beds. He also has the info on his website blog, where the parts are and you click it and it automatically takes you to drip depot and the part.
The manifold portion I got from Curtis Stone urban farming on TH-cam way back in him collection.
Another good one would be living traditions homestead on TH-cam. The videos would be from maybe 3 or so years ago. The drip video and the use of the DeWitt fabric is exactly where I started mine off of. Then I expanded.
Drip depot also has diagrams and info on website at the bottom under diy systems and questions. Drip works is another company and they have diagrams too. Both you can finds but have to search for.
On mine I run 1 in pipe under ground from house out to garden. Then at the end of that I have my homemade 4 way manifold with valves (looks exactly like the Curtis Stone one video) from that I have my 3/4 poly header tubing to each zone with it's own filter / pressure regulator combo and the tape plugs into the header pipe just like he showed here. I then have 1 line with no filter going to sprinkers over my lettuce to mist it throughout the day. But I am market growing so my area is big. I use only use raised beds for carrots and herbs. So my system would be different.
Good luck it is easy once you get it. Just stick to one manufacturer. I use all Irritec and the perma loc fittings. You just cut poly and insert the poly loc tee or whatever and screw the loc nut. I don't use the worm clamps anywhere.
@@OrioleHomestead Thank you for the information. I have watched videos (you tube and Drip Depot) calculated water flows, GPM and studied product, drew diagrams, etc. until I am nuts! lol! I am usually pretty competent but this has me baffled. I am close to giving up so thank you. I will keep trying. 🤥
@@OrioleHomestead I very much appreciate your well thought out response. I am going to check out these resources. May Mother Nature bless your gardens! 🙂
@@theresabates185 I am sure you will figure it out. Like I said mine is pretty easy. 3/4 poly the whole width of garden. I have a tee at the middle point where my filter/regulator and water come in to keep water even left and right. Then drip tape then plugs into header. The only calculations I worry about is the gph calculation to set up zones( 3/4 pipe is good up to 480) which is alot. Basically in my opinion, run 3/4 pvc or poly pipe to each of the beds. Then use the drip header pipe and tape just like Brian did on this video. People get too caught up on calculations and make it too difficult. It is easy once done Get water how you want to the bed then start the system. In your case like I said lazy dog farm video or website would be your best bet. Last summer he has a couple videos of exactly settling up water to raised beds.The website has his exact fittings and system. I like his showing of exactly how to do to do it. He is also the son of the owner of Hoss tools. So he has knowledge of seeds and fertilizers and practices of a place you buy seeds from. He also used to do Hoss TH-cam videos before going out on his own. Good luck with your garden this year.
I am new to gardening/growing and I haven't purchased a watering system YET. What is your opinion on a soaker hose?? They seem to be a lot cheaper than a drip hose or drip tape system. As of right now I don't have a lot of garden space. Just 2 raised beds inside a greenhouse. Any advice is appreciated, thank you!
If you go to Hoss Tools, they have an irrigation kit for raised beds with everything you’ll need. Soaker hoses I’ve tried water very unevenly & didn’t last very long
Those little metal clamps are called jubilee clips in UK
I don’t have access to running water. I do have three elevated 400 gal tanks. What do you recommend to irrigate my garden?
They do make low PSI emitters for use with gravity systems.
You can also try soaker hose. I have a perennial shade bed with a rain barrel that has a soaker hose attached and it works great.
@@jamiehopkins630 Thanks
Have you ever used soaker hose?
Looks like I was missing the snail in my setup. Thanks for the tip!
I saw a video from 'Hoss Tools' when he planted his watermelon patch. He buried the drip tape directly under the seedlings, in several long rows. He also added his liquid fertilizer through the drip tape. It was very interesting. There are 2 videos where he talks about it. "Grow the best watermelons ever" " How Many Watermelons Do You Need To Plant?" I hope this helps.
once you put your drip tube system in your raised beds, does that mean you can't turn them over and so you must use a no-till system as well?
I'm using 15mil Drip tape with 6 inch hole spacing for my raised beds. If I were doing something other than straight runs, I would consider tubing. But if I change my mind, I can switch 500' of runs for ~50 bucks - not the end of the world.
I use both depending on the circumstances.
HI BRIAN!! I know this is not the subject of this video, but, how do you cook your fennel? You said you could cook it, and I knew you would do a great video on that topic! 😊 Thank you!
Yes I will do that on the homestead channel. I roast it .
@@NextLevelGardening Thank you!
I grow a lot of vegetables in half barrels. I usually spend a couple hours every morning watering everything. I would like to have these be watered on a timer system. If I install the drip tube with the holes every 6 inches, how long would I need to set the timer for to be sure it was being adequately watered?
Newbie here. I put in a 17” tall 4’x8’ raised bed this year. Can I set up a drip tube to be connected to my lawn irrigation system so I can have it turn on /schedule like the lawn system?
Question i know you moved a while back. How did you do it. I mean move when you were going to leave all your produce with someone else. The reason I ask is I’m about to move and it’s frustrating me not wanting to plant anything for my summer garden knowing I’ll have to leave all my produce that I produce with the new homeowner
What about soaker hose?
I use drip tubing. I have two complaints. I have very hard water and the emitters in the drip tube clog up. Will this happen with drip tape also? The other issue is the small connectors kill my fingers. There is a tiny difference in brands and that can make it worse also.
I'll go with the tubing.. 😁👍
Are all your drip tape is running from one main water holes connect to the faucet.
i've struggled with the tube system - if i can fund the blue things the take seems easier
You can get the tape in a wider range of emmiter spacing and flow rates.
Excellent advise👏🏾So it sounds like I need to do some research as what drip system I need to invest in since I will have a combination of fabric grow bags, vertical grow-stalks and raised beds😊
Hi
I have same situation also been trying to do research…… ugh lol
Laura with garden answers buys from company called “Drip depot”
I also watch video from the millennial Gardener good video also uses same company
Drip tubing prob 🤷🏼♀️ will b r best plan
Also for what it’s worth green stalk also just came out with a drip irrigation runs off of the side of the container you will have to check it out
Hope my research helps with your research. Good luck.😊👍
@@vickirickman9373 thank you 😊
@@phoenixr6811
Your welcome 😊 it nice when we can learn together
I hate drip tape. You'll find if you have a large garden, that the tape gets nicked and you have a fountain going. Like you said, you have to be careful to get the same brand, my tape doesn't go over the fittings like your's did. I have to push and tease it over the fitting. The tube is a joy, round and round the trees and everywhere else I want it. You really have to work at damaging it. Tube for me! (I too, have a large spool of tape)
I recently installed drip tube with 0.5 gph emitters every 6 inches. Each tube was also also installed with 6 inch spacing. Unfortunately I still have very significant dry patches - even if I run the zone for 1 hour! I would have thought capillary action would have given me better coverage. I suspect that since my soil has EXCELLENT drainage, all the water is going straight down and does allow time for capillary action to draw water laterally. I think I might need to run line every 4 inches! Does this make sense? I am looking for constructive criticism. If I am looking at things incorrectly, please let me know. Is running drip tube for 1 hour excessive?
We have put drip tape in our raised bed that are about a foot or two apart and I have placed pots under the tubing that runs between the pots to catch the water. We used drip tubing for the individual pots which we feel like it is easier to control and no loss of water where it isn’t needed. We are trying to figure out now how often to schedule the watering and for how long. We are in Virginia where we get frequent rain but it is unpredictable and I don’t want to lose crops when we are out of town. We are growing tomatoes, cucumbers, romaine lettuce, onions, carrots and one lone pepper plant (I haven’t had very good luck in the past with peppers so I only have one to see if I can do better). Any suggestions on the timing for the watering? 8:53
Hi Brian!!! I have been trying to grow some small Daffodils, Iris, Crocus, beets and carrots in one big pot. The pot has drainage holes and all the plants are separated properly. They are also in part shade and sun, I let the soil dry out a little but I never let it get too rock hard. The plants were doing fine at first, but now they are starting to look brown, and the beets are turning pink and yellow. How can I help them get back to normal and grow healthy?
Plants and pots really need to be fertilized weekly half strength or at least every two weeks full strength
Thank you! 😄
Also, your videos are awesome, thanks for sharing them!!!
irrigation pipe (and presumably tubing/tape) has a larger ID than standard pipe. that's most likely why you had the issue with the connectors/Ts
No one has answered my question, does all these drip tape connects to the main water hose to the faucet.
Generally the drip tape connects to the mainline tubing (usually 5/8" or 1") which runs back to the faucet where you have a header. The header is a backflow preventer, a pressure regulator, a filter, and an adapter to go from hose thread to the tubing. If you use a timer that goes into the header as well. The mainline tees off to reach various beds or rows. Often there are valves built in to the design so you can control which areas are watered or how much. Drip Depot has a lot of good info on their website.
Must be fun trying to get all of the water out before winter.
Well I don't have to 😉 but you can blow it out with an air compressor
@@NextLevelGardening you aren’t worried about blowing the system apart?
Do you not recommend soaker hoses for smaller raised beds?
I use 1/2” irrigation pipe in my whole garden. Header pipe at head of rows. Rows in garden are 3’ apart. Adjustable pop in spray heads every 3’. On my okra row. 1/2” runs full length of garden. But. I use 1/4” drip hose zip tied to the 1/2” pipe full length of garden. I plant my okra seeds right below 1/4” drip hose and thin when seeds pop up. My situation is on my rows except okra. It’s. Tomatoes n peppers n squash and zucchini. Hope this makes sense
@Randy Duke I'm just getting started with the raised beds. I did container gardening for the last 2 years (a newbie to veggies) and this year we bought 4 galvanized raised beds to try out. They are not very big. They are 67"L X 20"W X 10"H. Our back yard holds a lot of water in spring and fall so we thought this would help because when i tried to plant in the ground a few years ago everything drowned (hence the containers) lol If this works out well I plan to expand with larger beds next year
Soaker hoses have their disadvantages, mainly even distribution of the water. So a plus there for drip tapes, also overall the price is actually cheaper!
@Aileen Smith ok thank you! I have a drip irrigation system that I bought to try with my containers but never used it. I'll read up on it and see if that will put out enough water. I liked that it had a timer that I could "set and forget"
In my experience, soaker hoses deteriorate fast, get clogged easily, and worst for me can't be customized for length easily. I imagine they would work much better with collected rainwater and in partial shade.
Hope you are well.
My drip line failed because the emitters are 12 inches apart. Need to be about 6 for adequate hydration. Back to drawing board. 😢
where do you get the little blue things?
The metal fasteners are called jubilee clips (well they are in the U.K.)
In the US they are called worm gear clamps.
also, I have not been able to find the drip tubing, had to add an emitter to the tube every six inces
It's often called dripline.
Can't use either....we have irrigation water with all kinds of junk in it! And can't put a water pump with screen because we live in town!
I have been watching your videos all winter. I'm in Connecticut and have had to take pits and pieces from your information, which I love by the way. I'm going to go with the drip hose watering system this year. And I've watched two of your videos on it. In one you mentioned you learned to use the return flow rather then just running the 1/4 " hose and capping them off. I get that, what I don't get is how do you run it to the next bed? Can that return run to the next bed with a T or do I have to have another start over with another line from my main faucet? How do I water more than one bed at a time? What am I not understanding? Any help would be much appreciated.
I installed a drip tube system in my raised beds after watching Brian’s video…I’m far from an expert but here’s my 2 cents! Yes, you can connect your beds with a T, that’s what I did. I have my drip line running from the faucet at the house to my first bed which is several yards away so I dug a little trench so it is underground up to the bed. Then I used the elbows to run it up into the bed and ran the 1/2 inch line all around the inside perimeter of the bed and attached the 1/4# lines going across from one side to the other. At the far end of that bad I used a T and elbows to run the 1/2 in line up out of that bed, dug a little trench to the next bed so its underground again, and then elbows to get it up and into the next bed and did the same thing with the 1/2 in going around the perimeter and 1/4 inch lines across. I did put a shut off valve at the connection to the 2nd bed to turn that one off if I wanted to. But I either have to water only the first bed or both of them together (I can’t water the 2nd bed on its own the way I have it set up). I also ran a T off of the 1/2 line right after it comes out of the faucet and ran it up and along the edges of three 4 ft high raised beds that I use to grow lettuce, and put a shut off valve on that line so I can control how much water goes into those. Even though the water has to go up 4 feet it works fine. My Home Depot has a whole section with all the Drip Brand irrigation stuff - tubes, connectors, etc. My suggestion is that if you have a store that carries all that stuff, go spend a little time there just checking it out and see what they have. That should give you some ideas on what they have available, what it does and how you could apply it to your situation! Or, whatever brand of system you decide to use, go to their website and check out all their options. I agree with others who suggest using a reputable brand, not some brand just because it happens to be the cheapest. My husband and I did our installation and it was a bit of work but relatively simple, and I have not had any issues with ours since we installed it for the most part. Except for having to replace a few 1/4 in lines when I accidentally cut them with my Felco clippers! 😂 I did have some issues with the simple first timer I bought, but I called the company (Drip) and they were very helpful! Ended up returning that timer (think it was faulty and could only turn off/on once a day and I wanted more options) and got the digital one which was much better. Hope this all made sense and is helpful! We are very far apart, I live in Hawaii! :)
@@physherwoman Thank You!!!!
Cant help ya drip hose is all have used but I like it. I say the drip tape is a user friendly product for sure not sure but maybe squeeze clamps would be cheaper Thank You
Is the tube more durable over time than the tape?
Any updates on what you decided?
What is your experience/opinion with soaker hoses?
What about soaker hoses?
I use mostly drip tape, cause it's the cheaper option, but I would have used the drip tube everywhere if I could. Our water has a lot of limestone in it and the drip tape holes get clogged with it. It's quite annoying honestly.