Your the insulator you're using on your TIG torch is the wrong one for that cup. But other than that it's good to see a newbie starting TIG welding and showing the practice that he does. From a welder to you practice makes perfect. Your tungsten looks like that from too much cleaning action not enough postflow to protect it. Love welding aluminum find it easier than all the others.
Also with aluminum, don’t do full pedal when you arc up, let the cleaning work first. That’s why you blew the corner out. You’ll definitely get it through
You need to be around 225 amps for 1/4' aluminum. If you can't get that, high heat the aluminum parts to 300+ degrees with map gas torch. I would use 50 to 60HZ frequency. Your looking good for a first timer. Plenty of helpful videos on TH-cam.
I like your approach. That being said, welding 1/4" aluminum requires about 225 to 275 A. I have a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 that maxes out at 200A. My settings are 200A, 75% EN, 130 Hz, preheat the parts to about 200F to 250F. I get good penetration and good welds. But I have to let the torch cool off as it is only a #17. I also use a 1/8" tungsten, I prefer the E3 or LaZR. You are having problems fusing the joint because you do not have enough heat input. When you go to the part that your dad needs, your problems will just get worse. There is no need to "ball" the tungsten with an inverter machine. Another thing to prep your tungsten is to blunt the tip. Welding on aluminum will help you become a better welder on steel and stainless steel as the heat and puddle control is more critical. If you want to do aluminum welding, do get that 220/240V outlet as on 1/8" thick aluminum needs at least 130 to 135A. The filler rod balling like that is because you really don't have a weld puddle. Also, when welding beads, it is best to weld towards the edge rather than from the edge. Good luck with it.
120 amps ain’t gonna cut it on 1/4” Aluminum! Balling the tip is not a requirement anymore with these new Inverter Machines. Just grind it to a point and let it ball however it wants to. Get your Machine plugged into a 220 outlet and crank those Amps up. Lay Wire I not for Welding Aluminum!
Preheat your parts just before welding. It will make your welder seem stronger by not sucking off the heat so fast. And as others have pointed out: clean, clean, clean. Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly in air. Aluminum melts at around 1200 degrees F, and the Oxide melts at triple that.
As somebody else said, wrong insulator, you want one with a flat surface with a shoulder/rim that sits inside the shroud/cup. Try a smaller bore shroud/cup, No. 5. Your using an 8? Even if you don't dip the Tungsten burn back faster with AC. Tungsten Dia. for the arc gap. Aim the arc "vertical" into the joint, to much lean towards the rod? Put a prep on the plate.
I should say, everybody is right on the insulator but you have changed it already so that's good, the post flow must be higher and cleaning is the most important thing. Aluminum oxidizes very fast so clean it with a stainless steel brush or sandpaper, you have to get rid of the oxidation and in my opinion, if you don't have enough amperage, pre heat it. Try to practice on a piece of flat bar, draw lines and weld on them and don't put your work peace on the table, put it on some blocks so the heat stays in the the work peace. Hoped to give you some good information and I wish you good luck and a great weekend.
Aluminum being ac power is flowing both ways, what you saw on the tungsten is the impurities that the ac cleaned off of the aluminum, use red scotch brite to clean the oxidation layer and acetone to wipe it clean and youll have much less of that on your tungsten but it is normal and unavoidable without being able to adjust ac balance and frequency, not bad for your first time though
Hey, get yourself an Amazon hot plate to preheat your aluminum. About 20 bucks. Use a #5 ceramic cup, not a gas lens. The cup helps control your arc. That aluminum is just too thick for your little welder. I started with a 250 Amp machine and that's too small for 1/4".
Not enough post flow will cause your tunsten to look bluish. Crank up post flow until its shining again. Your only issue is your nowhere near hot enough 👍
Your the insulator you're using on your TIG torch is the wrong one for that cup. But other than that it's good to see a newbie starting TIG welding and showing the practice that he does. From a welder to you practice makes perfect. Your tungsten looks like that from too much cleaning action not enough postflow to protect it. Love welding aluminum find it easier than all the others.
Thank you!! I just went outside and changed the insulator for the correct one.
It’s Q Tiped. When you dipped the aluminum crawled up the tungsten and ballooned up
Also with aluminum, don’t do full pedal when you arc up, let the cleaning work first. That’s why you blew the corner out. You’ll definitely get it through
You can always grab. A 20$ map gas set up and pre heat. It would help. But awesome job. Aluminum is a totally different animal
Thank you for watching and for the advice! Much appreciated!
You need to be around 225 amps for 1/4' aluminum. If you can't get that, high heat the aluminum parts to 300+ degrees with map gas torch. I would use 50 to 60HZ frequency. Your looking good for a first timer. Plenty of helpful videos on TH-cam.
I like your approach. That being said, welding 1/4" aluminum requires about 225 to 275 A. I have a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 that maxes out at 200A. My settings are 200A, 75% EN, 130 Hz, preheat the parts to about 200F to 250F. I get good penetration and good welds. But I have to let the torch cool off as it is only a #17. I also use a 1/8" tungsten, I prefer the E3 or LaZR.
You are having problems fusing the joint because you do not have enough heat input. When you go to the part that your dad needs, your problems will just get worse.
There is no need to "ball" the tungsten with an inverter machine. Another thing to prep your tungsten is to blunt the tip.
Welding on aluminum will help you become a better welder on steel and stainless steel as the heat and puddle control is more critical.
If you want to do aluminum welding, do get that 220/240V outlet as on 1/8" thick aluminum needs at least 130 to 135A.
The filler rod balling like that is because you really don't have a weld puddle.
Also, when welding beads, it is best to weld towards the edge rather than from the edge.
Good luck with it.
Wow, thanks so much for such a great comment! I really appreciate your advice and thank you for watching!
@@garageshopminnesota glad that I could help.
clean it! clean it! and clean it some more! wipe it with acetone. Definitely need more amps! Pretty good for the first time though!
I appreciate the advice and thank you for watching!
120 amps ain’t gonna cut it on 1/4” Aluminum!
Balling the tip is not a requirement anymore with these new Inverter Machines. Just grind it to a point and let it ball however it wants to.
Get your Machine plugged into a 220 outlet and crank those Amps up.
Lay Wire I not for Welding Aluminum!
Thank you for watching!
Preheat your parts just before welding. It will make your welder seem stronger by not sucking off the heat so fast. And as others have pointed out: clean, clean, clean. Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly in air. Aluminum melts at around 1200 degrees F, and the Oxide melts at triple that.
Thank you so much and I appreciate you watching!
As somebody else said, wrong insulator, you want one with a flat surface with a shoulder/rim that sits inside the shroud/cup. Try a smaller bore shroud/cup, No. 5. Your using an 8? Even if you don't dip the Tungsten burn back faster with AC. Tungsten Dia. for the arc gap. Aim the arc "vertical" into the joint, to much lean towards the rod? Put a prep on the plate.
Thank you! I really appreciate the help! I changed out my insulator yesterday.
I should say, everybody is right on the insulator but you have changed it already so that's good, the post flow must be higher and cleaning is the most important thing. Aluminum oxidizes very fast so clean it with a stainless steel brush or sandpaper, you have to get rid of the oxidation and in my opinion, if you don't have enough amperage, pre heat it. Try to practice on a piece of flat bar, draw lines and weld on them and don't put your work peace on the table, put it on some blocks so the heat stays in the the work peace. Hoped to give you some good information and I wish you good luck and a great weekend.
Thank you for watching!
Aluminum being ac power is flowing both ways, what you saw on the tungsten is the impurities that the ac cleaned off of the aluminum, use red scotch brite to clean the oxidation layer and acetone to wipe it clean and youll have much less of that on your tungsten but it is normal and unavoidable without being able to adjust ac balance and frequency, not bad for your first time though
Oh, wow! Thank you so much for commenting! That makes total sense. I really appreciate you watching!
Hey, get yourself an Amazon hot plate to preheat your aluminum. About 20 bucks.
Use a #5 ceramic cup, not a gas lens. The cup helps control your arc. That aluminum is just too thick for your little welder. I started with a 250 Amp machine and that's too small for 1/4".
Thank you!! I'll check it out!
Not enough post flow will cause your tunsten to look bluish. Crank up post flow until its shining again. Your only issue is your nowhere near hot enough 👍
did you clean the metal
Yes, I cleaned it with mineral spirits, but I admit I didn't do as good a job as I should have.
@@garageshopminnesota sand the aluminum where you are going to weld
There should be barely any sound, even when using AC. When welding into a corner the arc should NOT be bouncing back and forth.
Thank you and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Us THIN filler so it can heat up
Thank you for the advice!