Thanks Waleed. If you're in manual mode then your exposure doesn't change unless you change it. So everything is locked in wherever you set it. In a panorama you might need to change your exposure if you start on a side that is really dark and go to a side that is really bright but most times you don't need to. Have fun!
Thanks Francis. Those settings are for photo's only. You can snap a picture in video mode while you're recording if you wanted to. The raw or jpeg settings won't affect your video.
Congrats. These settings are a starting point for all video. Adjust as necessary for your environment. In your case you'll likely be changing aperture and ISO to get the exposure you need.
Hi, not sure I understand your question but with a prime lens you are the zoom. Meaning you can fit someone waist up if you are standing far away enough. But this size lens on a crop sensor cam like the 60D is like an 85mm lens. So you need to be in a space larger than an average size home office in order to get a lot in frame.
Ray Ortega Thanks for the video Ray, I've watch this every time I need to shoot video to make sure I've got it all setup right. This is the best video on DSLR video settings out there. Thanks again.
Just came across this video and looking forward to using these settings for an episode we are filming today. We recently switched to a new Canon Rebel T6i and are still learning how to use the settings beyond "automatic". Appreciate the level of detail you provided for each setting.
Hi Rodolfo, ISO 160 is just a starting point. In doors that's likely not going to be enough. The other point is to use the best steps in the ISO options. Start with 160 then go to 320, 640, 800, 1250, 1600. These ISO's are cleaner than the others. For example, ISO 320 is actually less noisy than 200. Doesn't seem logical but tests show this is true. So use your largest aperture first then increase the ISO as needed according to this scale.
Thanks man. Working on it... at what point is there just not enough light to shoot video? I'm in my living room trying to dial this in but the image is constantly too dark
It still takes a surprising amount of light even with a DSLR. But it also depends on what you are trying to light and what the background needs to look like. Exposing a mid shot for a person is harder and needs more light especially if you need the background to be lit as well. Do you have a lens that has a large aperture? Get as much light on you as possible, set your exposure for your skin (if that is the subject) and go from there. Add lights to the background as needed and open up that aperture but watch your focus.
Thanks. In low light you'll have to grab exposure best possible. You'll have to raise your ISO. On the 60D once you go above 1250 it gets really noisy. But before that, you can open your aperture wide as possible, drop your shutter speed if you don't mind the motion blur, and shoot in 24fps. All of these things will get more light into the camera then move your ISO's up based on the chart that is linked in my video's description.
Hi, You may have missed my question below so I'll try again. Do you know anything about sd card slot speed limits on the 60D and whether or not the 70D also has them? Ralph.
Good question. I'm not sure if you take a photo while filming video if it uses the same shutter speed etc. If so you'll need to be outside as that's a pretty slow shutter speed unless you're on a tripod. But video itself won't hurt your camera in photo mode.
Thanks Ray, awesome video, extremely helpful. Just purchased a Canon 18-135 STM lens to replace the 15-85 I had, and your tips are very helpful when using my 60D.
I know this is going to sound a little heavy, but I can't help it...It's because of people like you that I can accomplish my dreams. Thank you so much Ray! 1000x!
+Priyanka Singh not too heavy here, just the stuff I love to hear because it means I'm passing on something that happened to me as well. I have my dream job in part due to what I call TH-cam University;) Go get it!!
There are many kinds. The question was what software are you using to watch the video on your computer after you take it from the cam. Make sure you settings in that software match the type of video you are shooting.
Yeah I agree. I like to avoid just reading something but an outline is great if you tend to go off track or at the very least do some good editing. I tend to spill it all out there and then edit it down afterward to make it tighter with only the most important information. This allows me to be natural but also have an easier to watch tutorial. Thanks again for watching.
ive been getting tons of grain on my 60d and i had no idea that ISO is what causes that. when I get home, im going to see what my settings are at. i thought it was the lens itself.
so apparently it was set on auto. and since the 18 - 200mm lens widest aperture is 3.5, its horrible in low light. i also have an 85mm 1.8 telephoto lens which is good in low light. i also think im about to buy the 50mm 1.8 stm lens on amazon tonight. for these lenses, should my iso be at 160? the lowest is 100 for the 60d.
On the 60D and probably the same for most crop sensor Canon cams, it's been shown that ISO 160 is actually cleaner than ISO 100. But if you are in a situation where you need ISO 100 to get the right exposure, use it. You won't notice. So go with ISOs 160, 320, 640, and use those first then use what you have to to get the image.
Thank you for that video. I have come to learn a lot from your videos. Could you also do a video on, the relationship between Aperture and sharpness. And what are the best settings for a night video with 3 point lighting and how to get the most detailed image (probably with a 1.8 or 2.8 aperture lens. Also I'm torn between using f1.8, ISO 100 and F 2.8 with a higher ISO (say 400 or 800). I use a Canon 600D (T3i). What would be the best ISO since i have no idea about it's native ISO's. Once again thank you so much. I hope to learn more from you. Rayan.
Yep the nifty-fifity is a great starter lens that gives you a large aperture at 1.8. Excellent value, lens looks great. Please use the links in my description if possible. If not, no problem, have fun!
Thanks Mahmoud. I prefer the 60D over the T4i. The continuous AF doesn't work that well because it's Canon's first attempt at it. You're better off learning how to manual focus on your own. The 60D has a better battery, ISO ranges and a few other features that I think are better than the T4i's poor AF. The 70D, the 60D's replacement might come out in July but we don't know what it will be like yet.
Yep that was my point. Know what's "right" then play around with the wrong settings so you can see what happens and know when something isn't right. Also you might find some creative ways to shoot. In your video it just looks like the wall is lit completely even but that's hard to do. Good work, keep it up!
Thanks! The 60D and most DSLR's don't have continuous focus which is what you're asking about. The two that do, T4i and T5i don't do it well. The new 70D that is coming out looks like it finally got it right. If you move you need to refocus.
Ray Ortega This video was exactly what I was looking for...having used auto settings playing it safe for a few years...it was daunting venturing out in to manual! This vid was perfect! I was wondering...I use Windows Movie Maker for my editing...its basic but it works ok for me...BUT when I render a video (on high quality settings) it alters the look of the video a little and doesn't look as good as the original. Is Windows Movie Maker notorious for that? What would be a good (but low cost) editing software for someone looking to go the next level up? Many thanks for your help:)
StrikingScorpion82PLUS Try to upgrade from Movie Maker. I recommend Premiere Elements, but if it must be free, and you dislike pirating (god bless you), then go for Lightworks. It's free, and somewhat complicated, but if your willing to learn how to use it, you'll like it. Another freebie that is great, is Davinci Resolve Lite. Davinci Resolve is the industry standard, and used for color correction and light editing in broadcast (mostly for color correction). It's an amazing program, but one of the most complicated I've ever had to work with. IMO the easier and most painless options would be either Final Cut Pro X or Adobe Premiere Pro. Hope this helps!
Ray, thanks for this video. I am a stubborn artist, I take my camera out the box and start playing with it. Unfortunately, I never take the time to allow myself to learn it's functionalities. This video helped tremendously. Keep sharing and doing great work. Those like myself appreciate it. -Subscriber
Hey Ray, I have never learned so much in so little time regarding filming and photography with my Canon T3i than I have from you and your videos! You make a hell of a lot more sense than most tutorials and you're easy on the eyes :) Keep the videos coming man! I want to learn more!
There is a diopter on the right hand side of the little viewfinder. That lets you adjust the focus inside the viewfinder to suit your vision. Adjust the little dial so that everything is in focus.
Hey, I just got a new camera, and when I adjusted to your settings, my camera is soooooo dark. Like there's not enough light coming in? I can't adjust the aperture part for some reasons, I'm using a 18 - 200mm lens.
The aperture wheel is on back. Make sure you are in Manual mode. You can only open your aperture as far as your lens will allow. It will say on your lens the largest aperture available. **There is also a setting in your menu under the middle yellow wrench icon for locking the aperture wheel. Make sure this is disabled or you won't be able to change your aperture.** That is probably your issue. In my video, the settings for ISO are only a place to start. You will have to adjust your ISO and aperture based on the lighting in your environment. use 160, 320, 640, 800. Everything above that tends to get noisy; I'd rather add more light.
I believe that lens does not open wide enough...you have to work with the ISO in this situation if you can't alter the lighting itself...In darker shooting situations I shoot with the aperture wide open my 2 main lenses are 28mm at 2.8 and my 50mm at 1.8...their pretty awesome in the dark and give you some sweet visuals...but like Ray said...maintain the ISO as low as possible...unless you are going for a that look...in Post video is easier to work with a lightly dark video than with an over exposed noisy video...nice video....
Try the different focus settings. They have a few different options for AF. I haven't really seen an issue like that so make sure you have plenty of light and try to pick something that has a lot of contrast to focus on, whites vs darks
Hi Antonio. You need to shoot at 60fps and then put that into a 24fps timeline and use the setting for "Interpret Footage." Set it to "assume" frame rate is 24fps. Use a duplicate copy of your mov file just in case it changes it permanently which I don't think it does. That will slow it down while giving the video more fps to play with causing it to look much smoother. Beyond that, After Effects has some really awesome slo mo capabilities to get even slower, smooth video.
What you see is what I have but my suggestion even before watching my videos is reading your manual. I don't usually read manuals but in this case it's worth it. It gives you the push here push there walk through and it's actually a little funny too. Good job by Canon.
No it's a fair question. Set the profile for video and then go back to picture mode and see what profile is set. I believe they are independent but I don't have my cam around to test it out right now.
Mate that was a completely awesome tutorial and answers a bunch of questions and problems I had around the 60d. Moving forward I will definitely be using your setup in my own recording! Thanks!
This is tough cause it's hard to tell what's really going on. It sounds like the only solution would be more practice if you're having trouble w/ manual focus. The only tip I can think of off the top of my head would be to shoot at a small aperture. Shooting at f8 would give you a much larger range of focus to work w/. You won't slip out of focus so easy. As you get better you might be able to open the aperture. Also maybe go slower & then add a little speed to the shot in post. Hope that helps
I just did these settings to my new 60D. I'm more of a photography person but I want to get into film making also. This is a good start. I'm glad I found your channel. Thanks!
The aperture adjustment is the dial on the back. You'll want to dig into the manual. You'll learn a lot. I don't usually read them but in this case it's very helpful.
Thanks DS. If you do a lot of outdoor shooting and you want to keep your aperture open wide, you'll have to have an ND. I have a variable ND which is a really nice tool giving me all levels of ND with just a turn of the filter. I haven't used it much cause most of my shoots are indoors but take a look at my gear page listed in the description to see the one I have. It's affordable and very helpful.
Thanks Ruth. Yep, go up on the ISO but follow the steps I outline in this video... 160, 320, etc. Some of the ISO are cleaner (less noise) than others. I think there is a link in the description that will show you an example of what I'm talking about
Hi Thomas. In my video I talked about the 1/3 stops ISO settings. You should be at 160 at least. It's cleaner than 100. However you can raise above that in low light situations. Try taking the ISO up in 1/3's starting at 160, then go to 320, 640, 800, 1250 but try not to go any higher. See what that does to your image. Try to aim for 640 and adjust your aperture as needed. You'll get more light and not too much noise.
Direct sun can be tough. You have to expose for the light. You won't be able to use large aperture settings to get the blurry background because it's too bright and you'll have to crank your shutter up too high. If you want to use large apertures then you have to use ND filters to cutdown the light. The FaderND linked on my gear page in this video's description is your best option.
These settings work for pretty much all video. Video is different from photography where you would change your settings based on the type of subject. With video most of these videos remain the same and you work with aperture for exposure and creative control over focus. Have fun. You can see in my videos I've shot a couple punk shows and the results are great.
I use Premiere Pro 5.5 but the good news is it's easier and faster to just tell you what I do then make and wait for a whole video. I use the presets for TH-cam built into Premeire. They're really good and since you have cs6 you have them too. I bump things up a little in terms of audio quality making sure it's at least 128kbps and then increase the render settings some (probably not needed) and it comes out great just like you see. Compressing is pretty easy these days.
Thanks Ryan. I'm glad this sometimes confusing topic was made a little simpler. I like your idea and look forward to checking out your video. I don't think enough people play around with the wrong settings which is as important to the learning process as the "right" settings.
Thanks. I like most of the EOS Canon's. Buy what your budget can afford. You might want to look at the T5i with the continuous auto focus lens if you think you'll have a hard time working with these sensitive cameras.
The only reason to get the 50 if you have the 18-135 would be the wide aperture. Otherwise my favorite two combo lens would probably be a 24-70 and a 70-200 2.8 but those are really expensive options. The two you listed would give you coverage wide, long and low light with the 1.8 so it would probably work for what you want.
Oh man. I did all your settings to create my Oni-Con X video and I left out one major thing that I finally now understand as to why I wasn't getting the quality and it was the aperture. My aperture wasn't set to 2.8. Thank you so much for the settings I tried many other vids but just about nearly all of them couldn't help me set the camera to the quality I wanted besides yours and E.B. Studios' 60d tutorial video. I figured it out on my T3i using a Canon 16-35 mm f/4 2.8 L lens. Again thank you! :)
Fortunately what used to require tutorials is now very easy. My method is really simple, I use the TH-cam presets in FCPX and Premiere Pro. They work great and if I make any adjustments, it's simply to dial up the bit rate to get the max out of the render since most of my videos are short. So if you're using a modern editor, the presets should be good.
Low light is not much different in terms of exposure but despite these great sensors you are going to get more noise with less light. I try not to have to go past 640 on my ISO and I use really large apertures if the light is low.
Thanks. I'm a little confused. You say it doesn't move on manual but then it does and changed shutter speed. If it's on full manual (M) nothing will change unless you change it. Other settings than M will change things like shutter.
I tried it this morning with my cam (should have done that first!) You are correct. It does keep it separated, going back to the manual modes for stills shows standard is set as before. Very handy to know since I can set and forget the video. I'm terrible at remembering to switch options! Thanks!
That just depends on your preferred workflow. RAW will require and extra step to process. RAW + L will give you both the RAW and Large jpeg but it will eat up more space on your card.
1/60th is going to give you some motion blur that's the look of film. You can bump up the shutter to see how you like the look and being blurred at the corners, your lens is going to be it's sharpest at it's widest aperture. Try shooting at something above your widest aperture. If you widest is 1.8 try 4, 5.6 etc.
You can do some post processing work on it using noise removal tools but be careful, a little goes a long way. It's easy to mess up your audio. Mostly you have to be in a really quite environment in order to not pick up background noise. There will almost always be some kind of background noise in your audio. Make sure to position the mic away from any potential noise in your scene.
I decided to use my Canon 60D for a you tube blogging camera. In 2020 everybody is moving to 4k, but for you tube that isn't needed. Thank you for the in depth review on how to set the 60d up
For lenses you'd probably be best off with a zoom. That will allow you to pack one lens but get several different compositions. Shallow depth of field will be difficult because of the bright daylight conditions you'll have to have your aperture closed down unless you get a Fader ND like the one on my gear page listed in the description of this video. For audio, if you are just interviewing one person consider buying the best lav mic possible & record that into a recorder then sync in post.
I haven't used anything below the old Final Cut Express. I'm not aware of an open source option at this time. Adobe as an Elements version of their Premiere software which is a good start.
That setting is likely setup for a greenish tone that some consumer fluorescents put out. If you're close to 5200 then you are pretty much at daylight. Try that preset but really I like to use the manual Kelvin numbers so I can set it myself. Set it to what looks right to your eye. Also try Auto White Balance just to see how it looks. Sometimes the camera gets it right. You can then match that by dialing in your own setting so that it doesn't change automatically on you.
Thanks, I think you're the first person to comment on that. Glad it helps. I think it's good to give a recap/breakdown if necessary. Appreciate the sub!
If you're shooting images then things are much different. You can set the settings for whatever you need in order to get the shot. If you're on a tripod then you can even use slower shutter speeds etc.
This video is put together with many, many small clips so what part are you asking about? What is the size of this finished video? The final video was about 450mb's. But all the resources it took to make it comprised about 17gb's of footage and audio.
Thanks Natoya. Glad I could help. I think this video was done with natural light. In front of me is a giants window. When possible I use natural light as it tends to look great and is easy to use. Just sit in front of a window and expose properly and you'll look great.
Thanks, Geoff! Feedback like yours really lets me know how to make these kinds of videos in the future. I made some that I tried to improve on for both the 70D and 80D as well. I'll have to get some more cams to do the same with. You might actually get some things from the 70D and 80D ones as well since I made them to be more than just about the specific camera and instead about filming manual on any cam. Those cams are also a lot like the 60D with the big difference being continuous AF. Thanks for watching.
Video is not necessarily like photography. You'll still want to use the same settings 24fps, 1080p 1/50 shutter. You can adjust a bit of each for how you need it to get proper exposure. You could shoot at 60fps so that you'd get smoother slow motion and there won't be as much motion blur but really it's just a personal choice. Have fun!
Thanks for the video! I am totally new to DSLR filmmaking, I have been using "Normal" video cameras. I just got a Canon 70D so I am super excited to use it. This video was extremely helpful for getting the right settings.
Awesome, congrats Matt on your new cam and thanks for subscribing. The 70D is a killer cam and I'm glad you didn't skip this video just cause it had 60D in the title. Most if not all the settings apply to all DSLRs in video mode.
@Paul Fensome Thanks, Paul, this video is primarily to show you how to adjust settings manually so you can adjust to any lighting situation. You wouldn't use the settings I use here cause it was for my lighting. Regarding bright daylight, you would adjust the aperture to a larger number and bring the ISO all the way down but if you want to retain a shallow depth of field with a large aperture then yes you use an ND filter as I demo in this video th-cam.com/video/fW6YstY1pOg/w-d-xo.html thanks
Thanks. I guess my question, more directly, is when one shoots at 24 fps doesn't that require the shutter speed to be at 50 on the Canon? In which case I would change the ISO, yes? Or, when adjusting for brightness, which do I adjust first? shutter speed or ISO? I've got so much to learn. And thank you for this replying and for this channel!
There's a lot of negative comments on the net about moire pattern and noise associated with Canon DSLRs, in general, and the 60D/70D in particular. And I've heard that DSLRs get hot during prolonged recording (apart from Panasonic Lumix GH3). I'd be very grateful for your thoughts, Ray, as you seem to know tons, both in theory and in hands-on experience. Cheers!
5D markII and higher (markIII & 6D) are full frame sensor which means you get better low light performance and a better image overall. Basically it's just a better sensor all around.
Thank you so much, one of the cleanest explanations I've ever heard on DSRL shooting basics. You are the guy who understands what he talks about. Love recap part, always helps :)
Having a wide aperture is worth it for low light situations but since you already have 50mm in your zoom range I'd take a look at the 1.4 that I have listed in my links for this video. If you can only buy the 1.8 then it's cheap enough that it's worth it but the 1.4 is a better made lens and is still not bad on budget.
What software are you using to watch it on your computer? Your settings might be wrong. Otherwise your computer might not be able to handle the large files.
At some point yes but no immediate plans. I may skip a full frame DSLR and go to something like a C100 which is much better suited for DSLR. But who knows what they'll have out by the time I'm ready to upgrade. I may take a serious look at the 60D replacement the 70D whenever that finally comes out. I enjoy crop sensor cams because their affordability allows me to speak to more people. I like em all;)
Vishal s The "right" way to do it would be to use an ND filter. I actually learned this the same way, by shooting my first time with DSLR at an outside wedding. The video came out really jittery due to the necessity of having a high shutter speed. Here is the solution: DSLR Video Using a Fader ND for Shallow Depth of Field in Direct Sunlight However, it's OK to break the 180 rule as long as you know how it affects your image. In your case, it might have worked out OK. I talk about it more in this video on shutter speed: How To Set Shutter Speed for DSLR Video Thanks for watching!
I actually use CS5.5 but it's close to 6. I don't use Sony Vegas but I've heard a lot of people use it and it does a great job. Most editors do the basics of what you need. Vegas has great capabilities but I don't know about that specific version.
Yes, if you need more in focus then you have to up the aperture and you can also back away from your subject more but it will make your image darker so ISO will need to be increased as you mentioned or add more light which is preferable. Thanks for watching
Wow...great information! I just recently upgraded from a Canon 50D to the 60D so I can have another camera for outdoor filming (b-roll, 2nd angles, etc) I don't have a lot of experience with filters, but I'm guessing an ND filter would be a good investment. Thoughts...suggestions?
Yeah when you push the button half way to get focus the cam bumps up the ISO as much as it needs to be able to see the image its focusing on. That's what you are seeing. In low light situations it's a combination of aperture, shutter speed and ISO that will give you what you need but if there's just not enough light then you just won't get a clean image.
Thanks a lot! Glad they're helping. As for compression (exporting) these days modern editing system usually have great preset built in. What are you editing on and does it have presets for TH-cam etc? I suggest using those. It takes the complexity out the process and gives you a nice file. They should have settings for small and large web output as well.
Thanks for this. Seems so simple, but I was really struggling with getting clean video out of my 60D.
Thanks, glad it helped!
Thanks Waleed. If you're in manual mode then your exposure doesn't change unless you change it. So everything is locked in wherever you set it. In a panorama you might need to change your exposure if you start on a side that is really dark and go to a side that is really bright but most times you don't need to. Have fun!
Thank you. I just got my t3i today so it will take me awhile to get it, but I will. THANKS! This is a GREAT start!
Thanks, the T3i is a great cam. Have fun!
Thanks Francis. Those settings are for photo's only. You can snap a picture in video mode while you're recording if you wanted to. The raw or jpeg settings won't affect your video.
I learned more here more than my four years at university -__-
nakisha cohen i Know!
Same!! The most I learnt in camera class was to put a white sheet of paper in front of the camera and Auto adjust the WB...
thanks!
Thank you!
lol frfr!
Congrats. These settings are a starting point for all video. Adjust as necessary for your environment. In your case you'll likely be changing aperture and ISO to get the exposure you need.
I've learned more about DSLR video in the past day and a half watching your content. Thanks! Definite sub!
Thanks Tomas, I'm really glad the videos have been helpful. Appreciate the sub!
Hi, not sure I understand your question but with a prime lens you are the zoom. Meaning you can fit someone waist up if you are standing far away enough. But this size lens on a crop sensor cam like the 60D is like an 85mm lens. So you need to be in a space larger than an average size home office in order to get a lot in frame.
Ray Ortega Thanks for the video Ray, I've watch this every time I need to shoot video to make sure I've got it all setup right. This is the best video on DSLR video settings out there. Thanks again.
Wow thanks for the high praise! I really appreciate you watching and commenting.
Just came across this video and looking forward to using these settings for an episode we are filming today. We recently switched to a new Canon Rebel T6i and are still learning how to use the settings beyond "automatic". Appreciate the level of detail you provided for each setting.
+ArmadilloPepper.com thanks, hope the filming is going well!
I cannot say it enough! I love Ray Ortega! Thanks so much for all you've taught me and keep providing! You've helped my brand tremendously...
+Oscar Staton wow thanks Oscar! So glad I could help.
Wasn't expecting to learn anything new, but wow I had no idea about the multiples of 160 for ISO! That test video shows how amazing the difference is
Cool! Yeah that video really shows you the difference. Thanks for watching!
Hi i set my Canon 60D to these settings and my image is almost constantly too dark to see anything, I have no idea what the problem is here
+supahoopsa001 me too
+supahoopsa001 try upping the iso and/or shutterspeed or add more lighting. Not sure if it'll help but could try.
+supahoopsa001 your arpature is really low. turn the dial all the way to the left or right while in movie mode and see if that makes a difference
Change the movie exposure
+Drizzy Sub is right, you have to adjust the settings for your lighting. If you need to set it and forget it then you'll have to shoot in auto mode.
Hi Rodolfo, ISO 160 is just a starting point. In doors that's likely not going to be enough. The other point is to use the best steps in the ISO options. Start with 160 then go to 320, 640, 800, 1250, 1600. These ISO's are cleaner than the others. For example, ISO 320 is actually less noisy than 200. Doesn't seem logical but tests show this is true. So use your largest aperture first then increase the ISO as needed according to this scale.
Thanks man. Working on it... at what point is there just not enough light to shoot video? I'm in my living room trying to dial this in but the image is constantly too dark
It still takes a surprising amount of light even with a DSLR. But it also depends on what you are trying to light and what the background needs to look like. Exposing a mid shot for a person is harder and needs more light especially if you need the background to be lit as well. Do you have a lens that has a large aperture? Get as much light on you as possible, set your exposure for your skin (if that is the subject) and go from there. Add lights to the background as needed and open up that aperture but watch your focus.
watch my new music video shot by 60d edited by vegas pro 15 click th-cam.com/video/iza3O3rXR9w/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. In low light you'll have to grab exposure best possible. You'll have to raise your ISO. On the 60D once you go above 1250 it gets really noisy. But before that, you can open your aperture wide as possible, drop your shutter speed if you don't mind the motion blur, and shoot in 24fps. All of these things will get more light into the camera then move your ISO's up based on the chart that is linked in my video's description.
Hi, You may have missed my question below so I'll try again.
Do you know anything about sd card slot speed limits on the 60D and whether or not the 70D also has them?
Ralph.
Yes they do
Good question. I'm not sure if you take a photo while filming video if it uses the same shutter speed etc. If so you'll need to be outside as that's a pretty slow shutter speed unless you're on a tripod. But video itself won't hurt your camera in photo mode.
Thanks Ray, awesome video, extremely helpful. Just purchased a Canon 18-135 STM lens to replace the 15-85 I had, and your tips are very helpful when using my 60D.
I know this is going to sound a little heavy, but I can't help it...It's because of people like you that I can accomplish my dreams. Thank you so much Ray! 1000x!
+Priyanka Singh not too heavy here, just the stuff I love to hear because it means I'm passing on something that happened to me as well. I have my dream job in part due to what I call TH-cam University;) Go get it!!
Wow, thanks for the easy and quick explanations. I just set these 4 settings into my new 70D :-) thanks to you
There are many kinds. The question was what software are you using to watch the video on your computer after you take it from the cam. Make sure you settings in that software match the type of video you are shooting.
This has been very helpful I have been coming back on this video :)
Thanks for watching!
Yeah I agree. I like to avoid just reading something but an outline is great if you tend to go off track or at the very least do some good editing. I tend to spill it all out there and then edit it down afterward to make it tighter with only the most important information. This allows me to be natural but also have an easier to watch tutorial. Thanks again for watching.
From Belgium, Europe. Great stuff, even for dutch speaking people!!!
Great compliment, thanks Franswa!
Depends on what you're shooting. Prime's if you need a really wide aperture, zooms if you need different compositions quickly or more reach.
ive been getting tons of grain on my 60d and i had no idea that ISO is what causes that. when I get home, im going to see what my settings are at. i thought it was the lens itself.
Yes, ISO is a big factor. Hope the adjustment to lower ISO, worked! Also, there will almost always be some grain in the shadows on the 60D.
so apparently it was set on auto. and since the 18 - 200mm lens widest aperture is 3.5, its horrible in low light. i also have an 85mm 1.8 telephoto lens which is good in low light. i also think im about to buy the 50mm 1.8 stm lens on amazon tonight. for these lenses, should my iso be at 160? the lowest is 100 for the 60d.
On the 60D and probably the same for most crop sensor Canon cams, it's been shown that ISO 160 is actually cleaner than ISO 100. But if you are in a situation where you need ISO 100 to get the right exposure, use it. You won't notice. So go with ISOs 160, 320, 640, and use those first then use what you have to to get the image.
Thank you for that video. I have come to learn a lot from your videos.
Could you also do a video on, the relationship between Aperture and sharpness. And what are the best settings for a night video with 3 point lighting and how to get the most detailed image (probably with a 1.8 or 2.8 aperture lens.
Also I'm torn between using f1.8, ISO 100 and F 2.8 with a higher ISO (say 400 or 800).
I use a Canon 600D (T3i). What would be the best ISO since i have no idea about it's native ISO's.
Once again thank you so much. I hope to learn more from you.
Rayan.
Yep the nifty-fifity is a great starter lens that gives you a large aperture at 1.8. Excellent value, lens looks great. Please use the links in my description if possible. If not, no problem, have fun!
Thank you very much for this information. Should have watched this last week.
Thanks for watching. Hope you're getting the video you want!
Thanks Mahmoud. I prefer the 60D over the T4i. The continuous AF doesn't work that well because it's Canon's first attempt at it. You're better off learning how to manual focus on your own. The 60D has a better battery, ISO ranges and a few other features that I think are better than the T4i's poor AF. The 70D, the 60D's replacement might come out in July but we don't know what it will be like yet.
Very good tips! Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir! Subscribed!
Thanks! Glad to have you following along!
Yep that was my point. Know what's "right" then play around with the wrong settings so you can see what happens and know when something isn't right. Also you might find some creative ways to shoot. In your video it just looks like the wall is lit completely even but that's hard to do. Good work, keep it up!
Thank you that was a very good explanation.
Thanks! The 60D and most DSLR's don't have continuous focus which is what you're asking about. The two that do, T4i and T5i don't do it well. The new 70D that is coming out looks like it finally got it right. If you move you need to refocus.
superb!:)
***** Thanks!
Ray Ortega This video was exactly what I was looking for...having used auto settings playing it safe for a few years...it was daunting venturing out in to manual! This vid was perfect! I was wondering...I use Windows Movie Maker for my editing...its basic but it works ok for me...BUT when I render a video (on high quality settings) it alters the look of the video a little and doesn't look as good as the original. Is Windows Movie Maker notorious for that? What would be a good (but low cost) editing software for someone looking to go the next level up? Many thanks for your help:)
StrikingScorpion82PLUS Try to upgrade from Movie Maker. I recommend Premiere Elements, but if it must be free, and you dislike pirating (god bless you), then go for Lightworks. It's free, and somewhat complicated, but if your willing to learn how to use it, you'll like it. Another freebie that is great, is Davinci Resolve Lite. Davinci Resolve is the industry standard, and used for color correction and light editing in broadcast (mostly for color correction). It's an amazing program, but one of the most complicated I've ever had to work with. IMO the easier and most painless options would be either Final Cut Pro X or Adobe Premiere Pro. Hope this helps!
***** Hey thanks for the advice!:) Appreciate it:)
***** thanks, great feedback!
Ray, thanks for this video. I am a stubborn artist, I take my camera out the box and start playing with it. Unfortunately, I never take the time to allow myself to learn it's functionalities. This video helped tremendously. Keep sharing and doing great work. Those like myself appreciate it.
-Subscriber
Rashid Jarrell Thanks Rashid! Have fun with the cam.
thank you n GOD BLESS @SpdakaAce.
Hey Ray, I have never learned so much in so little time regarding filming and photography with my Canon T3i than I have from you and your videos! You make a hell of a lot more sense than most tutorials and you're easy on the eyes :) Keep the videos coming man! I want to learn more!
Wow thanks Jason! I can't ask for much more than that. I really appreciate the feedback.
Just bought the 70D. I come from a broadcast background, so pretty new to DSLR's. This really helped. To the point and very thorough. Thanks Ray!
There is a diopter on the right hand side of the little viewfinder. That lets you adjust the focus inside the viewfinder to suit your vision. Adjust the little dial so that everything is in focus.
Ray's videos on the use of the Canon is the best! Learned much from him and I'm enjoying my 60D even more...
Thanks!
Hey, I just got a new camera, and when I adjusted to your settings, my camera is soooooo dark. Like there's not enough light coming in? I can't adjust the aperture part for some reasons, I'm using a 18 - 200mm lens.
you must have limited f-stop on that lense - probably around f 4.0 or 5.6 so need to adjust the ISO up until the amount of light is adequate
The aperture wheel is on back. Make sure you are in Manual mode. You can only open your aperture as far as your lens will allow. It will say on your lens the largest aperture available.
**There is also a setting in your menu under the middle yellow wrench icon for locking the aperture wheel. Make sure this is disabled or you won't be able to change your aperture.** That is probably your issue.
In my video, the settings for ISO are only a place to start. You will have to adjust your ISO and aperture based on the lighting in your environment. use 160, 320, 640, 800. Everything above that tends to get noisy; I'd rather add more light.
I believe that lens does not open wide enough...you have to work with the ISO in this situation if you can't alter the lighting itself...In darker shooting situations I shoot with the aperture wide open my 2 main lenses are 28mm at 2.8 and my 50mm at 1.8...their pretty awesome in the dark and give you some sweet visuals...but like Ray said...maintain the ISO as low as possible...unless you are going for a that look...in Post video is easier to work with a lightly dark video than with an over exposed noisy video...nice video....
Try the different focus settings. They have a few different options for AF. I haven't really seen an issue like that so make sure you have plenty of light and try to pick something that has a lot of contrast to focus on, whites vs darks
Hi Antonio. You need to shoot at 60fps and then put that into a 24fps timeline and use the setting for "Interpret Footage." Set it to "assume" frame rate is 24fps. Use a duplicate copy of your mov file just in case it changes it permanently which I don't think it does. That will slow it down while giving the video more fps to play with causing it to look much smoother. Beyond that, After Effects has some really awesome slo mo capabilities to get even slower, smooth video.
What you see is what I have but my suggestion even before watching my videos is reading your manual. I don't usually read manuals but in this case it's worth it. It gives you the push here push there walk through and it's actually a little funny too. Good job by Canon.
No it's a fair question. Set the profile for video and then go back to picture mode and see what profile is set. I believe they are independent but I don't have my cam around to test it out right now.
Mate that was a completely awesome tutorial and answers a bunch of questions and problems I had around the 60d. Moving forward I will definitely be using your setup in my own recording! Thanks!
That's great to hear, thanks for sharing and have fun!
This is tough cause it's hard to tell what's really going on. It sounds like the only solution would be more practice if you're having trouble w/ manual focus. The only tip I can think of off the top of my head would be to shoot at a small aperture. Shooting at f8 would give you a much larger range of focus to work w/. You won't slip out of focus so easy. As you get better you might be able to open the aperture. Also maybe go slower & then add a little speed to the shot in post. Hope that helps
I just did these settings to my new 60D. I'm more of a photography person but I want to get into film making also. This is a good start. I'm glad I found your channel. Thanks!
Awesome, glad it's helping. Have fun shooting!
The aperture adjustment is the dial on the back. You'll want to dig into the manual. You'll learn a lot. I don't usually read them but in this case it's very helpful.
Thanks DS. If you do a lot of outdoor shooting and you want to keep your aperture open wide, you'll have to have an ND. I have a variable ND which is a really nice tool giving me all levels of ND with just a turn of the filter. I haven't used it much cause most of my shoots are indoors but take a look at my gear page listed in the description to see the one I have. It's affordable and very helpful.
Fantastic, thanks for watching. These settings are just where you start. You have to adjust for your lighting conditions.
Thanks Ruth. Yep, go up on the ISO but follow the steps I outline in this video... 160, 320, etc. Some of the ISO are cleaner (less noise) than others. I think there is a link in the description that will show you an example of what I'm talking about
Hi Thomas. In my video I talked about the 1/3 stops ISO settings. You should be at 160 at least. It's cleaner than 100. However you can raise above that in low light situations. Try taking the ISO up in 1/3's starting at 160, then go to 320, 640, 800, 1250 but try not to go any higher. See what that does to your image. Try to aim for 640 and adjust your aperture as needed. You'll get more light and not too much noise.
Direct sun can be tough. You have to expose for the light. You won't be able to use large aperture settings to get the blurry background because it's too bright and you'll have to crank your shutter up too high. If you want to use large apertures then you have to use ND filters to cutdown the light. The FaderND linked on my gear page in this video's description is your best option.
These settings work for pretty much all video. Video is different from photography where you would change your settings based on the type of subject. With video most of these videos remain the same and you work with aperture for exposure and creative control over focus. Have fun. You can see in my videos I've shot a couple punk shows and the results are great.
Thank you so much for this video. Very educational and extremely direct. Saves me so much trouble!
Thanks, Sarah
I use Premiere Pro 5.5 but the good news is it's easier and faster to just tell you what I do then make and wait for a whole video. I use the presets for TH-cam built into Premeire. They're really good and since you have cs6 you have them too. I bump things up a little in terms of audio quality making sure it's at least 128kbps and then increase the render settings some (probably not needed) and it comes out great just like you see. Compressing is pretty easy these days.
Thanks Ryan. I'm glad this sometimes confusing topic was made a little simpler. I like your idea and look forward to checking out your video. I don't think enough people play around with the wrong settings which is as important to the learning process as the "right" settings.
Thanks. I like most of the EOS Canon's. Buy what your budget can afford. You might want to look at the T5i with the continuous auto focus lens if you think you'll have a hard time working with these sensitive cameras.
The only reason to get the 50 if you have the 18-135 would be the wide aperture. Otherwise my favorite two combo lens would probably be a 24-70 and a 70-200 2.8 but those are really expensive options. The two you listed would give you coverage wide, long and low light with the 1.8 so it would probably work for what you want.
Oh man. I did all your settings to create my Oni-Con X video and I left out one major thing that I finally now understand as to why I wasn't getting the quality and it was the aperture. My aperture wasn't set to 2.8. Thank you so much for the settings I tried many other vids but just about nearly all of them couldn't help me set the camera to the quality I wanted besides yours and E.B. Studios' 60d tutorial video. I figured it out on my T3i using a Canon 16-35 mm f/4 2.8 L lens. Again thank you! :)
Glad you figured it out and I could help a little! Thanks for watching.
Fortunately what used to require tutorials is now very easy. My method is really simple, I use the TH-cam presets in FCPX and Premiere Pro. They work great and if I make any adjustments, it's simply to dial up the bit rate to get the max out of the render since most of my videos are short. So if you're using a modern editor, the presets should be good.
Low light is not much different in terms of exposure but despite these great sensors you are going to get more noise with less light. I try not to have to go past 640 on my ISO and I use really large apertures if the light is low.
Thanks. I'm a little confused. You say it doesn't move on manual but then it does and changed shutter speed. If it's on full manual (M) nothing will change unless you change it. Other settings than M will change things like shutter.
I tried it this morning with my cam (should have done that first!) You are correct. It does keep it separated, going back to the manual modes for stills shows standard is set as before. Very handy to know since I can set and forget the video. I'm terrible at remembering to switch options! Thanks!
That just depends on your preferred workflow. RAW will require and extra step to process. RAW + L will give you both the RAW and Large jpeg but it will eat up more space on your card.
1/60th is going to give you some motion blur that's the look of film. You can bump up the shutter to see how you like the look and being blurred at the corners, your lens is going to be it's sharpest at it's widest aperture. Try shooting at something above your widest aperture. If you widest is 1.8 try 4, 5.6 etc.
You can do some post processing work on it using noise removal tools but be careful, a little goes a long way. It's easy to mess up your audio. Mostly you have to be in a really quite environment in order to not pick up background noise. There will almost always be some kind of background noise in your audio. Make sure to position the mic away from any potential noise in your scene.
No I haven't seen that but maybe you are shooting an LCD or TV screen? If so, change your shutter speed to see if it helps.
I decided to use my Canon 60D for a you tube blogging camera. In 2020 everybody is moving to 4k, but for you tube that isn't needed.
Thank you for the in depth review on how to set the 60d up
For lenses you'd probably be best off with a zoom. That will allow you to pack one lens but get several different compositions. Shallow depth of field will be difficult because of the bright daylight conditions you'll have to have your aperture closed down unless you get a Fader ND like the one on my gear page listed in the description of this video. For audio, if you are just interviewing one person consider buying the best lav mic possible & record that into a recorder then sync in post.
I haven't used anything below the old Final Cut Express. I'm not aware of an open source option at this time. Adobe as an Elements version of their Premiere software which is a good start.
That setting is likely setup for a greenish tone that some consumer fluorescents put out. If you're close to 5200 then you are pretty much at daylight. Try that preset but really I like to use the manual Kelvin numbers so I can set it myself. Set it to what looks right to your eye. Also try Auto White Balance just to see how it looks. Sometimes the camera gets it right. You can then match that by dialing in your own setting so that it doesn't change automatically on you.
Subbed solely based on that recap you did at the end, seriously great for a tutorial, nobody does that.
Thanks, I think you're the first person to comment on that. Glad it helps. I think it's good to give a recap/breakdown if necessary. Appreciate the sub!
Hey Ray, I followed your instruction on this video, for a friends wedding. I'm impressed with the results so thank you for sharing your tips.
If you're shooting images then things are much different. You can set the settings for whatever you need in order to get the shot. If you're on a tripod then you can even use slower shutter speeds etc.
This video is put together with many, many small clips so what part are you asking about? What is the size of this finished video? The final video was about 450mb's. But all the resources it took to make it comprised about 17gb's of footage and audio.
Thanks Natoya. Glad I could help. I think this video was done with natural light. In front of me is a giants window. When possible I use natural light as it tends to look great and is easy to use. Just sit in front of a window and expose properly and you'll look great.
Excellent video. I'm getting the 70D which will be my first DSLR, this video helps more than I expected. Thanks!
Thank you Sooooooooooooooo Much! Wish all tutorials on TH-cam were as clear and straight to the point as yours! Cheers!
Thanks, Geoff! Feedback like yours really lets me know how to make these kinds of videos in the future. I made some that I tried to improve on for both the 70D and 80D as well. I'll have to get some more cams to do the same with. You might actually get some things from the 70D and 80D ones as well since I made them to be more than just about the specific camera and instead about filming manual on any cam. Those cams are also a lot like the 60D with the big difference being continuous AF. Thanks for watching.
Video is not necessarily like photography. You'll still want to use the same settings 24fps, 1080p 1/50 shutter. You can adjust a bit of each for how you need it to get proper exposure. You could shoot at 60fps so that you'd get smoother slow motion and there won't be as much motion blur but really it's just a personal choice. Have fun!
Thanks for the video! I am totally new to DSLR filmmaking, I have been using "Normal" video cameras. I just got a Canon 70D so I am super excited to use it. This video was extremely helpful for getting the right settings.
Awesome, congrats Matt on your new cam and thanks for subscribing. The 70D is a killer cam and I'm glad you didn't skip this video just cause it had 60D in the title. Most if not all the settings apply to all DSLRs in video mode.
Ray Ortega Happy to subscribe! And thanks again!
Yep, these are great settings to start with on any camera. Congrats on the 70D! Looks like a great new cam.
@Paul Fensome Thanks, Paul, this video is primarily to show you how to adjust settings manually so you can adjust to any lighting situation. You wouldn't use the settings I use here cause it was for my lighting. Regarding bright daylight, you would adjust the aperture to a larger number and bring the ISO all the way down but if you want to retain a shallow depth of field with a large aperture then yes you use an ND filter as I demo in this video th-cam.com/video/fW6YstY1pOg/w-d-xo.html thanks
I learn from beginning to do DSLR video shoot from you TH-cam channel and I find it very useful, informative and practical. Thanks for your sharing.
Thank you for watching. You can learn everything you need on TH-cam;)
Thanks. I guess my question, more directly, is when one shoots at 24 fps doesn't that require the shutter speed to be at 50 on the Canon? In which case I would change the ISO, yes? Or, when adjusting for brightness, which do I adjust first? shutter speed or ISO?
I've got so much to learn. And thank you for this replying and for this channel!
There's a lot of negative comments on the net about moire pattern and noise associated with Canon DSLRs, in general, and the 60D/70D in particular. And I've heard that DSLRs get hot during prolonged recording (apart from Panasonic Lumix GH3). I'd be very grateful for your thoughts, Ray, as you seem to know tons, both in theory and in hands-on experience. Cheers!
5D markII and higher (markIII & 6D) are full frame sensor which means you get better low light performance and a better image overall. Basically it's just a better sensor all around.
Thank you so much, one of the cleanest explanations I've ever heard on DSRL shooting basics. You are the guy who understands what he talks about. Love recap part, always helps :)
Thanks! Really appreciate the great feedback.
Having a wide aperture is worth it for low light situations but since you already have 50mm in your zoom range I'd take a look at the 1.4 that I have listed in my links for this video. If you can only buy the 1.8 then it's cheap enough that it's worth it but the 1.4 is a better made lens and is still not bad on budget.
What software are you using to watch it on your computer? Your settings might be wrong. Otherwise your computer might not be able to handle the large files.
At some point yes but no immediate plans. I may skip a full frame DSLR and go to something like a C100 which is much better suited for DSLR. But who knows what they'll have out by the time I'm ready to upgrade. I may take a serious look at the 60D replacement the 70D whenever that finally comes out. I enjoy crop sensor cams because their affordability allows me to speak to more people. I like em all;)
Vishal s The "right" way to do it would be to use an ND filter. I actually learned this the same way, by shooting my first time with DSLR at an outside wedding. The video came out really jittery due to the necessity of having a high shutter speed. Here is the solution: DSLR Video Using a Fader ND for Shallow Depth of Field in Direct Sunlight
However, it's OK to break the 180 rule as long as you know how it affects your image. In your case, it might have worked out OK. I talk about it more in this video on shutter speed: How To Set Shutter Speed for DSLR Video
Thanks for watching!
Hi Ray
Is 29:59 the recording limit of 60D and why does it always say 'Video stop automatically when recording'?
I actually use CS5.5 but it's close to 6. I don't use Sony Vegas but I've heard a lot of people use it and it does a great job. Most editors do the basics of what you need. Vegas has great capabilities but I don't know about that specific version.
Yes, if you need more in focus then you have to up the aperture and you can also back away from your subject more but it will make your image darker so ISO will need to be increased as you mentioned or add more light which is preferable. Thanks for watching
Wow...great information! I just recently upgraded from a Canon 50D to the 60D so I can have another camera for outdoor filming (b-roll, 2nd angles, etc) I don't have a lot of experience with filters, but I'm guessing an ND filter would be a good investment. Thoughts...suggestions?
Yeah when you push the button half way to get focus the cam bumps up the ISO as much as it needs to be able to see the image its focusing on. That's what you are seeing. In low light situations it's a combination of aperture, shutter speed and ISO that will give you what you need but if there's just not enough light then you just won't get a clean image.
Thanks a lot! Glad they're helping. As for compression (exporting) these days modern editing system usually have great preset built in. What are you editing on and does it have presets for TH-cam etc? I suggest using those. It takes the complexity out the process and gives you a nice file. They should have settings for small and large web output as well.
This video helped me how to set video to Manual
Thanks, Arvin!