How well does gear oil work as a lube, any chatter ? I built a hydraulic pull button rifler and used a deep draw oil without much success, chatters and needs to much force. I have made about 3,000 cut barrels
This is mainly for pistol/SBR barrels. With that in mind, it has a lot to do with your machining ability and tooling available. Also your selection of quality materials. While 1018 steel may be good enough for a 3D printed pistol, you'll want 4140 (or similar) or an appropriate stainless for anything where accuracy and durability matters. This, in turn, affects your ability to drill and ream unless you have proper tooling. If you bore a straight hole and ream it to the correct size, finish turn concentric, and set up the machine properly, it will be as good as any pull-button rifler delivers. I deliberately did not pursue rifle barrel lengths because of the complexity of stress relieving and other common processes which affect barrel straightness, as well as the unlikelyhood of the majority of users having access to a real gun drill for very straight holes over long lengths. That said, if you have access to drilled and reamed blanks, any continuous motion pull rifler, or properly configured single point rifler, will be far more precise than any push button rifler because of the uneven motion, stops and starts of a hydraulic press, and inconsistent concentricity of the push rod(s). This unit was based on the old Pratt&Whitney design, used on most mechanical sine bar pull riflers since the 1800s. It's obviously not automated, but it is a very rigid, very accurate machine that does 6-16 twist, left or right, and the chuck indexes for 4, 5, 6, or 8 point, single-point if you go that route vs. pull buttons. (You set the twist to match the specs of the pull button). It maxes out at 16" length, but remember that you will likely lose a bit of that length in finish machining, chambering, and head space adjustment unless you're a very good machinist. I actually expect to try making a 1911 barrel, turning and rifling a fat blank, then turning it to barrel diameter and machining the base lug onto it. Completely possible on this machine.
I'm also working on a design for a .22lr version of the TEC-9, using Ruger style 10-22 magazines, and expect this will produce exactly the barrels needed. The complexity is matching bolt mass and recoil springing to the .22 round vs. 9mm so it feeds, extracts, ejects and cycles properly.
I was of the understanding that a button "twists" the barrel itself rather than needing a mechanism to do this - have you tried one without the twist mechanism connected (Although its such an impressive mechanism I'd be using it every time if i'd built it!)
A push button twists on its own because the mandrel pushing it is not connected to the button. Push buttons tend to bind and jerk, leaving irregular grooves because of changing friction at the button-mandrel contact point. A pull button is attached to the shaft, and the shaft must twist at the same rate as the button or the shaft will break as the button binds. This device is adjustable for 6 to 16 twist, left or right to accommodate standard pull buttons. It can also pull single point rifling tools because the chuck can be indexed at 45, 60, and 72 degree increments. Thus 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 grooves are possible.
No. Too complicated to create cad drawings from the Mastercam files. Plus there is variation in the linear motion components...they are probably from China via Amazon and eBay.
Wow! What a stunning tool! What an ingenious design
Beautiful machining and quite the design…kudos to the machinists
Now this is something I would be interested in getting even if you did charge the 3000 you previously mentioned. Great work my friend!
Ya, it's definitely worth spending some money on. It looks like an easy to use setup and rather flexible as well.
If you're seriously interested, let me know.
@@tintruder224 Can you tell me where I can buy the rifling button?
@@chiavoipcp9082 dmetool.com/products/rifle-buttons-mandrels/
You Sir are a Awesome Machinist and Designer.
I love what you did.
It's Beautiful.
Vigilance Rifles Inc.
We would like to know how to seize Rifling Button please share.
How well does gear oil work as a lube, any chatter ?
I built a hydraulic pull button rifler and used a deep draw oil without much success, chatters and needs to much force.
I have made about 3,000 cut barrels
Awesome Machine
you show me how to polish the grooves
This is amazing do you have plans or know where to get some?
Wonderful!
this is wicked cool. have you continued work on this?
Hello. How many power you need to make the sistem work?
How did you size your ballscrew?
info harga.nya bos
Nice tool
what is the accuracy like out of this barrel s? can you do a video from boring all the way to testing the barrel?
This is mainly for pistol/SBR barrels.
With that in mind, it has a lot to do with your machining ability and tooling available.
Also your selection of quality materials. While 1018 steel may be good enough for a 3D printed pistol, you'll want 4140 (or similar) or an appropriate stainless for anything where accuracy and durability matters. This, in turn, affects your ability to drill and ream unless you have proper tooling.
If you bore a straight hole and ream it to the correct size, finish turn concentric, and set up the machine properly, it will be as good as any pull-button rifler delivers.
I deliberately did not pursue rifle barrel lengths because of the complexity of stress relieving and other common processes which affect barrel straightness, as well as the unlikelyhood of the majority of users having access to a real gun drill for very straight holes over long lengths.
That said, if you have access to drilled and reamed blanks, any continuous motion pull rifler, or properly configured single point rifler, will be far more precise than any push button rifler because of the uneven motion, stops and starts of a hydraulic press, and inconsistent concentricity of the push rod(s).
This unit was based on the old Pratt&Whitney design, used on most mechanical sine bar pull riflers since the 1800s.
It's obviously not automated, but it is a very rigid, very accurate machine that does 6-16 twist, left or right, and the chuck indexes for 4, 5, 6, or 8 point, single-point if you go that route vs. pull buttons. (You set the twist to match the specs of the pull button). It maxes out at 16" length, but remember that you will likely lose a bit of that length in finish machining, chambering, and head space adjustment unless you're a very good machinist.
I actually expect to try making a 1911 barrel, turning and rifling a fat blank, then turning it to barrel diameter and machining the base lug onto it. Completely possible on this machine.
I'm also working on a design for a .22lr version of the TEC-9, using Ruger style 10-22 magazines, and expect this will produce exactly the barrels needed. The complexity is matching bolt mass and recoil springing to the .22 round vs. 9mm so it feeds, extracts, ejects and cycles properly.
I was of the understanding that a button "twists" the barrel itself rather than needing a mechanism to do this - have you tried one without the twist mechanism connected (Although its such an impressive mechanism I'd be using it every time if i'd built it!)
A push button twists on its own because the mandrel pushing it is not connected to the button.
Push buttons tend to bind and jerk, leaving irregular grooves because of changing friction at the button-mandrel contact point.
A pull button is attached to the shaft, and the shaft must twist at the same rate as the button or the shaft will break as the button binds.
This device is adjustable for 6 to 16 twist, left or right to accommodate standard pull buttons.
It can also pull single point rifling tools because the chuck can be indexed at 45, 60, and 72 degree increments. Thus 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 grooves are possible.
Where to get the barrel and the straight rod
Buy the steel.
Drill and ream.
Turn between centers to restore concentricity.
Do you offer plans/parts lists for this?
No. Too complicated to create cad drawings from the Mastercam files. Plus there is variation in the linear motion components...they are probably from China via Amazon and eBay.
@@tintruder224 China？
Do you sell this machine?
How can I reach out to you to talk about this machine?