I still remember my first mouse which was sold with Amiga 500. It was a hudge move from 8-bit to Amiga world. Playing first game, Lemmings with a mouse :)
It looks beautiful. You can't beat that factory fresh look. Although it's just a small thing it makes a big difference to the overall enjoyment. Cheers
The mouse came out great, nice work! I've been looking for a 1351 for ages, but the prices on eBay are often higher than the cost of the computer these days!
The retrobrite will last longer if you protect it after you do it. I've seen Adrian Digital Basement use 303 spray. That seems like a reasonable choice.
Living in Sweden, I don't have much sun these days for retrobrighting. I always use 12% peroxide and just heat for 3-4 hours, and it's easy and works great. :)
Use WD40 to remove the glue underneath the glide pads. Just spray a little on them, wait and remove/scrape off. After all IPA to clean all off. And for retrobright, better use fluid peroxide than that cream stuff. Just better and cheaper and no stain/marble effects. Submerging full in a bin works then much better. And you don't have to massage it ;)
Good to see it lookin' nice now, at the time a mouse wasn't a big thin' for computers yet but somehow thin's were still made for them anyway, and I wager there was some variation in them, so thus that leads to my question - how do you think the Commodore mouse stack up to the mice of that era or even to the next set of computers up which likely required some sort of mouse?
Jan, I love your channel, your enthusiasm and your amateur approach is what makes it great for me. I have one little complaint, if I may: The volume of your intro music is very high compared to the rest of your videos. I have to set the volume very low for the intro and set it high again when it finishes in order to be able hear you. Can you please re-edit that intro clip to lower the volume a bit (like half actually). Many thanks, and keep up your great work as it is.
Yes, they used larger tactile switches. I think the original Amiga 1000 mice used the same size. I don't know if they are better necessarily, they feel less "clicky" overall.
I done a quick search but can't find out if the mouse uses the analog inputs on the joy port or not. I'm using a winsid but that doesn't emulate the analogs for some reason. I wouldnt mind a mouse. Bugger, NVM 6:54
Kudos to you! I'm coveting a 1351 since I left mine at my parents' place, never to be found and had to replace it with an optomechanical one with the [M]ouse Interface. Nice repair (on the other vid) and restore. I'm sure the Glide Pads they sell on eBay for gaming mouses can fit beautifully on the 1351 if your solution doesn't last as much as you desired :)
I did a mouse retro bight recently, but due to the uneven surface on top, I got some striping. I would say a mouse is a better candidate for the submersion method instead of creme and plastic wrap.
Im about to do something similar on a 1351 mouse I just picked up. I was wondering what to replace the pads with, I was thinking about maybe Teflon disks or pads.
You can buy sheets of glide pad material actually (I think it is Teflon coated but not sure). Should be relatively easy to cut to size and probably better than my makeshift solution (although it still works pretty well).
i heard that the yellowing has something to do with the bromide in the plastic that has been used as a flame retardant. but i don't know if that is true.
I recently bought a 1351 off ebay for my C64, and it is boxed with manual and in pristine looking new condition, trouble is, i'm not sure if it works properly or not! I plugged it in and tried it for the mouse controlled games that I know of and read that it worked with, ie - Arkanoid, Operation Thunderbolt etc etc, but the mouse didn't move properly, only in one direction I seem to recall. This was disappointing, so I put it back in its box, and intended trying it again another day but I still haven't got round to it. I don't know if I did something wrong, or maybe the mouse is probably not working? It is nice to just keep as a collectors piece though being in such lovely cosmetic condition, but I would like to use it on the few games it is meant to work for!! I have a couple of boxed Neos mice which both work great for Arkanoid etc, and work first time when I plug them in, but my 1351 doesn't do that! Would you have any advice at all Jan? It would be greatly appreciated if so :) Great video as always, and keep it up...cheers! :)
Just to comment that you (and every single youtuber out there) make the retrobrighting process completely forgetting about adding Active Oxigen. I mean the cheap one that you can buy for laundry, that the creators of the Retrobrighting process indicated on their formula (and they invented it and you can investigate on the Wiki). And also, placing that cover over it, that isn't as good as just brushing the piece again every half an hour because it can leave marks. But I'm not saying At All, that your process with such a small piece hasn't become absolutely perfect, but it's just to comment about how it should be made in general, mostly with larger things.
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/janbeta11201
I still remember my first mouse which was sold with Amiga 500. It was a hudge move from 8-bit to Amiga world. Playing first game, Lemmings with a mouse :)
It looks beautiful. You can't beat that factory fresh look. Although it's just a small thing it makes a big difference to the overall enjoyment. Cheers
The mouse came out great, nice work! I've been looking for a 1351 for ages, but the prices on eBay are often higher than the cost of the computer these days!
The retrobrite will last longer if you protect it after you do it. I've seen Adrian Digital Basement use 303 spray. That seems like a reasonable choice.
Living in Sweden, I don't have much sun these days for retrobrighting. I always use 12% peroxide and just heat for 3-4 hours, and it's easy and works great. :)
Well done. That 1351 looks like it has come straight out of the box now -- amazing job!
Use WD40 to remove the glue underneath the glide pads. Just spray a little on them, wait and remove/scrape off. After all IPA to clean all off. And for retrobright, better use fluid peroxide than that cream stuff. Just better and cheaper and no stain/marble effects. Submerging full in a bin works then much better. And you don't have to massage it ;)
You are watching 8 bit guy too much
@@basvanharen2904 no, I'm into retro repairs, too - so I know things like that ;)
Good to see it lookin' nice now, at the time a mouse wasn't a big thin' for computers yet but somehow thin's were still made for them anyway, and I wager there was some variation in them, so thus that leads to my question - how do you think the Commodore mouse stack up to the mice of that era or even to the next set of computers up which likely required some sort of mouse?
Nice restoration Jan! Keep up the great work!
Great result Jan! Well done :)
Love your channel Jan..I'm a subscriber for life..thank you for the awesome content over the years..
Jan sei sempre il migliore!
Hi Jan . Look up compass cutter on Ebay. They are inexpensive but brilliant for cutting circles . All the best, Brett .
Jan, I love your channel, your enthusiasm and your amateur approach is what makes it great for me. I have one little complaint, if I may: The volume of your intro music is very high compared to the rest of your videos. I have to set the volume very low for the intro and set it high again when it finishes in order to be able hear you. Can you please re-edit that intro clip to lower the volume a bit (like half actually). Many thanks, and keep up your great work as it is.
Super gemacht!
Looks great!
Came up beautifully. I really should get one of those grow lights to do some retrobrighting
funny how this mouse looks to have better buttons than the early amiga 500 versions
Yes, they used larger tactile switches. I think the original Amiga 1000 mice used the same size. I don't know if they are better necessarily, they feel less "clicky" overall.
That is totally awesome dood.
Beautiful clean mouse. I had one for my 128D. It came with GEOs.
I done a quick search but can't find out if the mouse uses the analog inputs on the joy port or not. I'm using a winsid but that doesn't emulate the analogs for some reason. I wouldnt mind a mouse. Bugger, NVM 6:54
Great job Jan, that was nicely restored. Is there anything you can coat it with to slow down or stop the re-yellowing?
Kudos to you! I'm coveting a 1351 since I left mine at my parents' place, never to be found and had to replace it with an optomechanical one with the [M]ouse Interface. Nice repair (on the other vid) and restore. I'm sure the Glide Pads they sell on eBay for gaming mouses can fit beautifully on the 1351 if your solution doesn't last as much as you desired :)
I did a mouse retro bight recently, but due to the uneven surface on top, I got some striping. I would say a mouse is a better candidate for the submersion method instead of creme and plastic wrap.
Love your work Jan keep up the good work :D
Im about to do something similar on a 1351 mouse I just picked up. I was wondering what to replace the pads with, I was thinking about maybe Teflon disks or pads.
You can buy sheets of glide pad material actually (I think it is Teflon coated but not sure). Should be relatively easy to cut to size and probably better than my makeshift solution (although it still works pretty well).
What would a Jan Beta video be without capacitor replacement?
Just a tip: you can use teflon glider feet for other mouses and then cut them to size.
But it is more expensive.
i heard that the yellowing has something to do with the bromide in the plastic that has been used as a flame retardant. but i don't know if that is true.
Nice one bud!
Quick question - is it possible to retro-bright the mouse cable ?
I recently bought a 1351 off ebay for my C64, and it is boxed with manual and in pristine looking new condition, trouble is, i'm not sure if it works properly or not! I plugged it in and tried it for the mouse controlled games that I know of and read that it worked with, ie - Arkanoid, Operation Thunderbolt etc etc, but the mouse didn't move properly, only in one direction I seem to recall. This was disappointing, so I put it back in its box, and intended trying it again another day but I still haven't got round to it. I don't know if I did something wrong, or maybe the mouse is probably not working? It is nice to just keep as a collectors piece though being in such lovely cosmetic condition, but I would like to use it on the few games it is meant to work for!! I have a couple of boxed Neos mice which both work great for Arkanoid etc, and work first time when I plug them in, but my 1351 doesn't do that!
Would you have any advice at all Jan? It would be greatly appreciated if so :)
Great video as always, and keep it up...cheers! :)
I wanted the arm hair to get retro brightened :))
Great little vid, why not use Teslanol® Plastik-Wineu on the cable, it would help look better!
Nice!
Does the 1351 mouse work on Amiga and reverse?
No, the way the Amiga interprets mouse signals is quite different from the way the C64 does!
Thanks :)
That growlight fan really needs some retro-brightning for itself ;-)
Jan has anyone ever told you.. you sound like christopher walken.? lol
usually they tell christopher walken that he sounds like jan beta.
I thought your cleaning solution said something different ... I missed the 'i' after the C .. lol
Lol. :D
Do you have tested that the LED lamp really emits UV light and not only violet? My trust in cheap chinese products is not very high
What a nice game. :)
Proper People want to come explore your building.
As good as new :)
Standard glue? It‘s Uhu EXTRA!
Use WD40 to disolve the sticky stuff, Jan!
But cool project
Just to comment that you (and every single youtuber out there) make the retrobrighting process completely forgetting about adding Active Oxigen. I mean the cheap one that you can buy for laundry, that the creators of the Retrobrighting process indicated on their formula (and they invented it and you can investigate on the Wiki). And also, placing that cover over it, that isn't as good as just brushing the piece again every half an hour because it can leave marks. But I'm not saying At All, that your process with such a small piece hasn't become absolutely perfect, but it's just to comment about how it should be made in general, mostly with larger things.
And... The main thing is that I've loved your video ;). I love them all.
WD-40 is excellent for removing gummy glue.
Yes, you are right. Didn't think of that but I've used it a lot to remove stickers and such previously. :)
I doubt many viewers understand what your sponsor even is. Still better than PCBGay
No videos on GeoPaint ... slightly more modern courses? ... so MS Paint :-)
Even more modern I think. :D
Buy a New soldering iron pace ads 200 or fx 951 is more Good r and powerful thet your old soldering iron
run your wet Magic Eraser up and down the mouse cable! It’s gross! :)