Remember, if you remove hot air, you have to allow a for a provision of replacement air. Hopefully from the cooler side of the house. Yup it all makes a difference. I’m thinking of making a video “ How to keep your junk cool”. That title will at least draw the curious LOL.
It's incredible how your setup has evolved. Congrats on an amazing setup. I really like the pre-charge switch and how it's configured to work. Would be great if you could make a video going into detail on how you built it. Great job again.
That BN link thermostat has one or two probe inputs? Your video shows a sensor on the output of the blower, and another atop of the MPP, which I assume is getting the temp of the inverter?
The sensor in the tube is actually a thermal fuse and lets go around 150F . The one laying on top of the inverter came with the digital thermostat (red display)
this is one of the best setups I have seen, great job! I was thinking of getting the LVX6048 or the LV6548 but I'm not sure which one to get. Good to know that this one is working well for you after a year and a half. Are they stilll working well?
I have since retired that model due to worsening inaccuracy. I loved the display but there was no voltage correction and the error got worse when the air temperature increased. I went to a shunt type that’s rebranded under several different names there are two versions of it and I have one of each in two different locations. The newest version has the battery symbol in the horizontal position and the shunt comes in a plastic enclosure. Both versions work great. Goupchn Battery Monitor 400A 2.4" Ultra Clear Display with Shunt DC 0-120V Support APP Control Wireless Voltage Current Meter DC Voltmeter Coulometer for RV, Car, Golf Cart, Boat Battery Meter a.co/d/6WGYqmk
I have the same setup. I'm getting +5-6a over my load +140w inverter idle for 2 units on AC input amperage when AC bypass is functioning. I have it set to sbu so its not supposed to charge the batteries with utility. If AC bypass is not functioning but on like in your video then it draws about 0.5a. Is that an issue you've had?
@@Gary-ee3kq Yes it will draw from grid anytime it’s available as system operation current. The only way to keep this from happening is to open the breaker and totally isolate it. Think of this way, imagine if you have no solar at all and also no load. Your system is just a big uninterruptible power supply. If it didn’t use the grid to maintain status quo, eventually the system would have to recharge. With bad luck, a power outage could be when the battery happens to be at a low state of charge. It’s just the price to pay for keeping things ready. It would have been nice to be able to turn it off if you know you don’t need it because you always have daily PV to replenish.
@SkypowerwithKarl In AC bypass mode why does it use more than the current that it needs to run the load and the 2 inverters? I don't want to waste money in the middle of the night when my batteries die to charge them back up so I set it to SBU. Where does this extra 5a at 120v current go? Heat I'm assuming.
I'm getting another 4 12v 100ah batteries tommorow to double my battery bank so hopefully I'll be able to power the house all night and not have to go into AC bypass mode. I don't mind paying for the 0.5a standby current as insurance so my food in my fridge doesn't go bad, but I don't want to pay an extra 5a of heat for something I'm not getting any use out of.
Hi Karl , I have 2 invertors I want to set up . I have 4 solar panels should I run 2 solar panels to one invertor and the other 2 to the second invertor?
You have to find what the max OCV (open circuit voltage) rating is for each MPP input of the inverter is and what the OCV is of each panel. For instance if the OCV for each panel is 50 volts and you put 4 panels in series you have 200 volts which is well under an inverter that might be rated max at 250 OCV. This doesn’t mean that you can’t max out and put 5 panels in series because you have easily exceeded that voltage on a cold day when panels make more voltage than rated and the inverter will go poof! The inverter will also have an MPP range say hypothetically 90 to 230 volts. So if you have a panel that makes 45 OCV and you have two in series, it might be make any power because it’s right at the bottom of the range. So for an inverter with 250 max OCV MPP per input, four panels making 49 OCV each put in series would be perfect. Five is too much and two is not enough. If you have two inverters that have two inputs for a total of four, you would only be using one input with four panels in series. That leaves three MPP inputs for future panels. This inverter family is offered with several different OCV offerings, 250 is the lowest and 600 is the highest. One is not better than another because they have different advantages depending on your application. For instance, the 250 uses the least amount of system operating power but the 600 has a greater operating window. Just work within your specifications and all good.!
Nice set up. Good job and thank for sharing,
Very nice Karl
Thanks Will. High praise coming from you.
That is so Clean
@@jdfloats
Thanks!
Oh my! I have been struggling with inverter heat. Best Idea yet. Nobody I asked about overheating had a clue about your idea with the blower vent
Remember, if you remove hot air, you have to allow a for a provision of replacement air. Hopefully from the cooler side of the house. Yup it all makes a difference. I’m thinking of making a video “ How to keep your junk cool”. That title will at least draw the curious LOL.
Looks slick Karl! Thanks for sharing your updates!
Thanks Adam!
You have built a great solar system. The details are impressive.
Thank you.
Wow. Really nice build. I'm working on my inverter/ battery room this winter. Got my panel racks installed last summer. It's been a long project.
Glad to see the updates! Nice work.
Thanks Gavin!
Fantastic job well done buddy
Thanks!
It's incredible how your setup has evolved. Congrats on an amazing setup. I really like the pre-charge switch and how it's configured to work. Would be great if you could make a video going into detail on how you built it. Great job again.
I think I will “What’s in the boxes?”
You have done a nice job!
Thanks, I appreciate that!
thanks for the update i was thinking about asking for one last week lol good timing . looking good like your work!!
I love all the meters! Looks great. I hope there is a cover for the battery terminals.
Excelente!!!!
Impressive setup. Why compress the batteries?
Here’s the best explanation for compression I’ve found;
eelbattery.myshopify.com/blogs/news/lifepo4-cell-compression
That BN link thermostat has one or two probe inputs? Your video shows a sensor on the output of the blower, and another atop of the MPP, which I assume is getting the temp of the inverter?
The sensor in the tube is actually a thermal fuse and lets go around 150F . The one laying on top of the inverter came with the digital thermostat (red display)
this is one of the best setups I have seen, great job! I was thinking of getting the LVX6048 or the LV6548 but I'm not sure which one to get. Good to know that this one is working well for you after a year and a half. Are they stilll working well?
Hi Karl what is the make and model of the current meter
I have since retired that model due to worsening inaccuracy. I loved the display but there was no voltage correction and the error got worse when the air temperature increased. I went to a shunt type that’s rebranded under several different names there are two versions of it and I have one of each in two different locations. The newest version has the battery symbol in the horizontal position and the shunt comes in a plastic enclosure. Both versions work great.
Goupchn Battery Monitor 400A 2.4" Ultra Clear Display with Shunt DC 0-120V Support APP Control Wireless Voltage Current Meter DC Voltmeter Coulometer for RV, Car, Golf Cart, Boat Battery Meter a.co/d/6WGYqmk
slm ustam tescom marka inverter sendeki inverterle aynı fan sesi hiç durmuyor yük olmasada fan hep calısıyor sendeki inverterde aynımı??
Yes
I have the same setup. I'm getting +5-6a over my load +140w inverter idle for 2 units on AC input amperage when AC bypass is functioning. I have it set to sbu so its not supposed to charge the batteries with utility. If AC bypass is not functioning but on like in your video then it draws about 0.5a. Is that an issue you've had?
@@Gary-ee3kq
Yes it will draw from grid anytime it’s available as system operation current. The only way to keep this from happening is to open the breaker and totally isolate it. Think of this way, imagine if you have no solar at all and also no load. Your system is just a big uninterruptible power supply. If it didn’t use the grid to maintain status quo, eventually the system would have to recharge. With bad luck, a power outage could be when the battery happens to be at a low state of charge. It’s just the price to pay for keeping things ready. It would have been nice to be able to turn it off if you know you don’t need it because you always have daily PV to replenish.
@SkypowerwithKarl In AC bypass mode why does it use more than the current that it needs to run the load and the 2 inverters? I don't want to waste money in the middle of the night when my batteries die to charge them back up so I set it to SBU. Where does this extra 5a at 120v current go? Heat I'm assuming.
I'm getting another 4 12v 100ah batteries tommorow to double my battery bank so hopefully I'll be able to power the house all night and not have to go into AC bypass mode. I don't mind paying for the 0.5a standby current as insurance so my food in my fridge doesn't go bad, but I don't want to pay an extra 5a of heat for something I'm not getting any use out of.
Hi Karl , I have 2 invertors I want to set up . I have 4 solar panels should I run 2 solar panels to one invertor and the other 2 to the second invertor?
You have to find what the max OCV (open circuit voltage) rating is for each MPP input of the inverter is and what the OCV is of each panel. For instance if the OCV for each panel is 50 volts and you put 4 panels in series you have 200 volts which is well under an inverter that might be rated max at 250 OCV. This doesn’t mean that you can’t max out and put 5 panels in series because you have easily exceeded that voltage on a cold day when panels make more voltage than rated and the inverter will go poof! The inverter will also have an MPP range say hypothetically 90 to 230 volts. So if you have a panel that makes 45 OCV and you have two in series, it might be make any power because it’s right at the bottom of the range. So for an inverter with 250 max OCV MPP per input, four panels making 49 OCV each put in series would be perfect. Five is too much and two is not enough. If you have two inverters that have two inputs for a total of four, you would only be using one input with four panels in series. That leaves three MPP inputs for future panels. This inverter family is offered with several different OCV offerings, 250 is the lowest and 600 is the highest. One is not better than another because they have different advantages depending on your application. For instance, the 250 uses the least amount of system operating power but the 600 has a greater operating window. Just work within your specifications and all good.!