Just wanted to share a quick tip for everyone. All of your wood handled tools, hammers, shovels, rakes, hoes, etc. can be given considerable strength and flexibility by drilling a small hole in the end, adding a few drops of boiled linseed oil now and again before storing them upright. The oil will eventually penetrate the entire handle and even aid in preventing splinters while using the tools.
@@JustinPaul1st push your shovel into the ground, the end sticking upward would be my definition of the end (or top). I suppose that a hammer handle would be drilled at it's base then stored in the vertical with the base facing upward.
One thing I like about your channel is your lack of arrogance. If there's something you're not sure of or something you don't know about or as in this video describing how you learn this trade by the seat of your pants.... That makes what you do even that more impressive. For me, learning by doing is 10 times better than reading or classroom stuff.
Kyle over at the Fab Forums channel (the guy building the Bibster hotrod) made a very similar one to this. Both of you guys are very alike in your approach to sorting out your own workshop with custom tools that are suited to your needs. You both also want to freely share what you know with those of us who don't know. It's a great time in human evolution that we can teach and be taught by others from anywhere in the world. As always, thanks for taking the time mate.
Hi Karl & Christina! We just had several comments on one of our videos that you sent them on over! You guys look like you're doing some amazing things in the shop, keep up the great work and thank you very much for the shout out!
Thank you very much Wray! I have and continue to learn so much from you! I’ve spoken to some of your students and they all speak highly of your class. I will one day attend and soak up some of your immense knowledge!
I would add a second metal strap system to the bottom of the stump, vibration from impact could eventually cause the stump to loosen ... my opinion. Good content as usual, thanks for your time and effort, take care be well.
Or because he has it near the top he could drop it down to half way, it should keep it together too, especially as he has it screwed together. But like you I would put a second strap around the bottom about two or three inches up. I checked out Big Joe, there's a Big Joe goes under Motorcycle Cruiser on TH-cam.
With linseed oil the lighter the coat the faster it dries. You might find it takes longer this time around. The hole in the center, just drill it out to a common size and stuff a piece of dowel rod in it with a bit of wood glue. I like titebond 2 for wood glue. It dries quick and is very durable. Nice project! I really like the idea of using regular lumber for it.
+1 for the dowel. I have even been known to rip down a piece to close to that square hole size, whittle one end into a taper and just drive it in hard, if you don't wanna drill it for the dowel.
Hi Karl. Linseed is great stuff. Best is to mix 50:50 with turpentine for the first coat which makes it really soak in and then full strength for second coat. The oil will swell the timber and keep it tight in place. Will make any cracks swell and stop them from opening up. Great video. Love your channel.
Congratulations Karl, you've just made what every blacksmith, and armourer through history calls a dishing stump! ;) Don't worry about getting Boiled Linseed Oil on the metal, blacksmiths have been using it as a metal finish since at least the US Civil War, and likely much, much longer. Armourers I knew back in the 70s used about the same design, but taller, and with a 2" Beech or Ironwood board instead of Nylon. The Primo Autobody guy I worked with back in the 80s called his a dishing stump too, but his Grandfather was a blacksmith... Oh, and Nylon in the Ottawa area, Canus Plastics, and I am pretty sure they are national...
Heh, I was just coming to the comments to share this! Well done brother of the hammer! May your forge never get clinkers and your pant legs never catch a spark!
@@IronAngelForge lol! Thanks, but as I mostly use either charcoal or propane, clinkers aren't much of a thing, and we will have to add "again" to the end of the 2nd part... But that is a very cool greeting. May your forge, as well never give you clinkers and may your pants never catch fire too!
As always I N JOY the video’s that said. It so cool how the grinder seems to be an extension of your hand be it metal or cellulose pulp!!!! 🤔😂🤣 As far as the hole in the bowl caused by the corners of the post just cut a piece and drive it in!!!!!!! Then re shape the bowl. Just a thought?
Thanks for the hammering table idea, yes ,if you sold the stuff to make it ,it would be a good deal ,I would buy one ,I’m gonna look into your hammer too, thanks.
@@eaenlle I wasn’t aware that Wray sold those. I don’t think Karl is being disingenuous here, but sharing what he can. I do love watching Wray, as well. Learned a TON from him 🍻
Knowledge should not be owned, but shared for the benefit of all. Even if you must call it Copy it is still the best form of Flattery. I did like Proshaper's use of EPDM sheeting glued to the bowl, to grip the tucked metal to help trap the tucks and therefore increase the shrinking.
great video on the stump..and u were right, everybody is a critic.. especially the ones that has never heard of a shrinking stump..and they sound like pros..lol.. iv made 2 of these for my anvils, in my shop..thanks for sharing..i enjoy ur videos.. Black Art Forge..
I made one of those using an old stump and a circular saw. I plunged the saw many times into the stump going around in a circle. Then chipped the pieces out with a chisel. Worked great.
Nylon cutting board from any kitchen gadget section of department stores and often grocery stores. Variety of sizes styles and prices. Inexpensive generally.
Wray at Pro Shaper did an incredible shrinking stump. I love your information. Although you are into Hot Rods all your content is applicable for reso's of all types. Keep it comming
Vice Grip Garage makes his shine juice with Linseed oil and paint thinner and sometimes WD-40. Thanks for sharing the stump build. I have a piece of old railroad track lag screwed to a piece of treated house support piling with a concrete base screwed on from the bottom. I is heavy enough to be useful but light enough that it can be moved with a two wheeled cart.
Raw linseed oil works even better. Boiled tends to be sticky. I'm a bricklayer by trade and we oil our wooden levels regularly. We use raw linseed oil to stop the stickiness of the boiled stuff collecting dust
I kept yelling UHMW! Guess you couldn't hear me! :-) I really enjoy your videos, you have great content and presentation, and Christina does an awesome job behind the camera and editing! You two make a great team! Keep up the great work!
I've been working with metal my whole adult life doing fab work with heavy thick metal but I've learned more watching your videos lately than I ever thought possible over video. I build 1/14 scale semi trucks as a hobby and now going to build one all metal thanks to the things I've learned from your vids. Thank you for sharing your talent.
I would recommend using the Linseed oil often, It will keep the wood from cracking and drying out . Drill a 1/4 inch hold about half way down in your wood hammer handles and fill them with linseed oil and plug the hole with a 1/4" dowel every few years and they will look like new for years. ( If the handles are in good shape when you add the oil) Great videos Carl.
The Fab Forums on TH-cam made a shrinking stump out of 4x4's and metal brackets similar to yours back in 2019. Very interesting project with some great tips. Thanks for sharing.
Wray Schelin from Pro Shaper made a similar shrinking facilitator out of multiple pieces of 8x2 timber's in a box frame. You can buy a High density Poly Ethylene chopping board and cut that down for the flat beating surface also and cheap and easily found from local kitchen supplies store or walmart/ K-Mart
HDPE is the plastic I would recommend lumber that is not treated. Treated lumber tends to be softer crappier sticks. The perforations in the outside are to allow the treatment AKA poison to soak deeper into the wood. Splinters from treated lumber are damn near guaranteed to get infected. I also agree with through bolting the lumber since wood expands and contracts with the moisture in the air. Then whacking on it with a hammer can near guarantee those wood screws will eventually come loose. it wouldn't hurt to also glue the hell out of all the pieces as it goes together. My thoughts is bomb proof it for a "several life times" tool where your great grand kids could be using it. I built an anvil stand out of 2x4s and over built the hell out of it! Great video, looking forward to the how to use it video which is probably already out by now haha.
Karl, really enjoyed this one! I figured you were as I call it, self learned. No formal training beyond high school. Fortunatly for us we had opportunities to learn some skills in school & that set a foundation to build on. Those opportunities seem non existent today as our schools have been stripped of those type of classes. Thank you for sharing & caring. From one Skillbilly to another, Rock on brother!
My definition of Skillbilly is a person with self learned or acquired abilities. Not self taught but self learned with no formal teaching (In my case nothing since high school). Learn as you go, or learn by doing & observing, use what you got or whatever works to get the job done! Karl, you are Skillbilly Supreme! Thanks for sharing Brother.
Wray from Pro Shaper has a shrinking "facilitator" made from dimensional lumber. His has a rubber coating on it to hold the metal from moving as well. Cool vid as always and your teeth besides the one missing seem to be in good shape Karl!
hay Carl instead of buying the nylon by the piece go to supper market and you can get nylon cutting boards for cheep in different sizes and thickness just a suggestion keep up the good work always enjoy watching you make things
i made a very basic and crude metalworking stump back a couple years ago. not as big a diameter , just lagged onto a couple 2x4s and braced at the bottom. used it to shape my fender patch panels...and a bag of play sand . cheap and it works.
Carl, thank you, these are now my favorite videos on TH-cam. My father had a body shop and my grandfather was a blacksmith, and I was the only one interested in inheriting their tools, many are handmade and are up to 100 years old ! I just have some very basic body work skills from just hanging around them, but still just a novice. I was going to send my old 66 Bronco to a body shop for some dent repairs, but since watching your videos I'm going to learn this stuff and attempt to do it myself ! And taking out these old tools brings back memories, thanks again ! Tony
You are right. I was having this conversation yesterday with a friend. And honestly I need to just do it. I will focus on the caddy and model a mostly but like I said the zephyr is due for a hair cut to get the juices flowing
Well Thanks Karl, for making Another tool video for a tool that I will have to make. I believe that’s 3 now that I am behind on. Great Video and looking forward to seeing your next one.
I didn’t see it in the first 10 comments so UHMW. Another is HDPE. High Density Polyethylene. Great stuff for CNC and not as slippery as UHMW, but yeah not the same as nylon. Love the channel!!
Wray Schelin. Pro Shaper Tools builds what he calls a shrinking facilitator from dimensional lumber which he covers with some sort of rubberized material. I’m going to make one from some some gluelam material that a company across the road from my shop leaves out on the street for the scavengers to take away
Hey Karl, just a note regarding the information that you provide us on these videos, the nuggets has you called them. After welding some sides on a flat stainless plate, I ended up with some distortion (oil canning) on the plate! I really need it to be straight, so I remembered the video you done on heat shrinking and decided to have a go at it… after a lot of cursing and swearing, I got the hang of it and managed to get the plate straight again. All it needs now is dressing and sanding smooth. So yeah, keep on feeding us this bits as they become very useful when the right situation comes along… Now I have to thank you for saving my part 😊😊
I'm in Wi and use a place called Speedy Metals for sheet and whatever. They also carry some plastics so I would check your local metal supplier, you might be surprised at what they have.
Gotta say - love your attitude Man! You're so easy to listen to because you're that rare breed of artisan who is insanely talented yet humble, keep it up and I'll keep tunin' in!
Amber Shellac dries in under an hour. It will protect the wood and the metal, and it looks so cool. My Grandfather used to coat all his garden tools and wheelbarrows.
Nice. Can't wait to see it in action!! I broke bad and picked up a HF English Wheel this week. Thank you for all of the great content and inspiration to get out there and work on my projects. A note about Linseed oil, I am told it will combust if left on rags. I usually use a cloth to apply it to metal I am working, tongs and punches etc.
There are several comments below that are close and are referring to the right thing: polyethylene. It's basically the same plastic as milk jugs. UHMW-PE = ultra high molecular weight polyethylene.
I've seen this idea a few times Carl and yours looks the mutts with the lump of nylon. Hope the oil didn't take too long to dry or actually soak in . Very enjoyable considering as you say you know nothing about wood . I wish with the amount of channels on TH-cam doing metal fabricating I was 20 years younger . Looking forwards to the video of you getting stuck in and christening it . Thanks
You can use that stuff on wood and metal. That little hole doesn’t matter. Lay it on thick. I like to use a rag but a brush works too. Main thing with BLO is if you leave rags soaked in that stuff, it will spontaneously combust.
I work for a package company, we label and box foam display boards. Our labeling machine has nylon blocks on the label stamper, it's 3"x4"x1/2" with a cost of $500 each.
@@MakeItKustom just the blocks. They have holes drilled in them to mount them to the stamper on the machine and has several air holes drilled through also
Boiled linseed oil thinned with turpentine protects metal pretty good too. Quick wipe with a rag to touch up. Vintage aircraft with steel tube fuselages treated the inside of the tubing with linseed oil.
Looking at your Mother Tucker Hammer, I have to say I am very interested in it! But like you said "Not everybody has access to a lathe!" And I certainly am "that guy"! Too explain that a little further, FIRST keep in mind I live in a trailer park....so I don't have access to a "shop space" and that what work area I have is tiny!! My "shop" is an 8 foot by 8 foot addition I build to the front of an old 8 foot by 8 foot shed!! Math being what it is basically I have an "8 foot by 16 foot" shop, buy most of that other "8 feet" is tool storage space!!
Karl I love watching your videos! Not only are you a talent in all things metal, but you are clear and concise on your reasoning behind what your doing. Very inspiring and and I’ve learned a lot from you. Cheers!
Any kind of oil is good for wood like that, I use old motor oil on my anvil stump. Wood will shrink up and crack as it dries out but as long as you keep it oiled it will virtually make it waterproof and rot proof and shouldn’t start cracking. And your metal straps won’t rust either if you just keep the whole thing oily. Looks beautiful 👍
The video just began and I haven't watched any of it yet. My first thought is, as good as you are, your TIG welder ain't going to do the job. ...and now back to the video😁
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and your 'tips and tricks' in all of your videos! This world needs to pass on more knowledge to our youth; so much has been lost in the last couple of decades. Keep it up, and thanks again!
On my stump, I put the ring lower because I put smaller rings to hold hammers and other tools. I also mounted a post vice. Stumps will dry out and crack so I put the finest oil can buy. My truck has a lot of it. I also mounted two casters on one side so it acts like a hand cart if you want to move it. I ask an old blacksmith why her burn hid hammers and stump. He told me that it sealed it and kept the bugs out. After burning I sand and varnish everything including the strap. Looks good.
I’d start with a 2x2” square tube frame and get some square tube made for hitch receivers (smooth on the inside and 2x2 slides nice into it) use that for your engine mount brackets. That way, you can adjust for different engines? Just a thought
if you heat your brackets up and slop the boiled linseed oil on and let it absorb in the pores, you will get the authentic 'blacksmithed' look and never have to worry about messing up whatever 'modern' finish you may have in mind.....it'll last indefinitely, especially if you're like me and NEVER hit it with an errant blow.....lmao p.s. were you thinking of HDPE (high density polyethylene)....good stuff for the right job....try to grind on delrin; that was what sold me on it...I used it for bushings and MANY other things...good stuff. I always enjoy your vids convinces me there may be hope yet for another run at 'Made in America' greatness
I believe the plastic you are thinking about is HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene). I buy my project metal and plastics from ALRO. They seem to be in many of the major cities here in the USA. Don't know if they have a presence in Canada. They also have outlet centers that carry remnants at nearly scrap metal prices. It's a great day when you find what you need in their remnant section. 😁
You always need the right toll to do the job right, and as always Karl you have made the right tool to do the job! Love watching you work out all of the details and how you solve problems!
If you put the linseed oil on the metal and rub it in it will make the metal shine and also slow down the rusting that will inevitably form on the steel. I would coat the whole stump to help preventing it from cracking especially on the ends. You should also periodically re coat the stump to keep it preserved.
Just love watching your videos, so informative and interesting and love the fact you always relate what you are doing to us regular guys who dont have power tools to do every job. I have some cut off railway sleepers in garden that I was unsure what to do with, I know now. Thanks guys and keep up all the different awesome videos. Jeff from Birmingham, England
Timing on this is crazy i have been thinking about trying this i have not been able to find a stump large enough to do this that is not already firewood but i was thinking of running some dowels thru it and glueing it together might go metal strap route instead also never seen the plastic i like that will see if i can find it near me also had thought about one big bowl one side and 2 smaller sizes on other side definitely going to give it a try thanks again
Linseed oil is very flammable. If you put the rags together in a pail. It’s a fire hazard can ignite without a spark. Most hang the rag dry them out then throw them out.
Just wanted to share a quick tip for everyone. All of your wood handled tools, hammers, shovels, rakes, hoes, etc. can be given considerable strength and flexibility by drilling a small hole in the end, adding a few drops of boiled linseed oil now and again before storing them upright. The oil will eventually penetrate the entire handle and even aid in preventing splinters while using the tools.
Great tip, thanks.
So what you saying is drilling a hole on the top as in where u be holding thr handle...interesting will try it out once u give me clarity
@@JustinPaul1st push your shovel into the ground, the end sticking upward would be my definition of the end (or top). I suppose that a hammer handle would be drilled at it's base then stored in the vertical with the base facing upward.
@@papawheelie5835 makes sense guess it depends on the type of tool mate👍👍👍
Awesome tip! I have never heard anything like it 🙏
One thing I like about your channel is your lack of arrogance. If there's something you're not sure of or something you don't know about or as in this video describing how you learn this trade by the seat of your pants.... That makes what you do even that more impressive.
For me, learning by doing is 10 times better than reading or classroom stuff.
Thanks very much Randy I appreciate you! The best way to learn is by doing
As a 3rd gen silversmith this was godsend!
Kyle over at the Fab Forums channel (the guy building the Bibster hotrod) made a very similar one to this. Both of you guys are very alike in your approach to sorting out your own workshop with custom tools that are suited to your needs. You both also want to freely share what you know with those of us who don't know. It's a great time in human evolution that we can teach and be taught by others from anywhere in the world. As always, thanks for taking the time mate.
Agreed! Yeah I did see his sandbag stump! Looks awesome to
I’m enjoying your channel. Young guy doing stuff. Awesome.
Hi Karl & Christina! We just had several comments on one of our videos that you sent them on over! You guys look like you're doing some amazing things in the shop, keep up the great work and thank you very much for the shout out!
Thank you very much Wray! I have and continue to learn so much from you! I’ve spoken to some of your students and they all speak highly of your class. I will one day attend and soak up some of your immense knowledge!
Thats cool man!👍👍
I made mine with a chainsaw and a small sanding disc on a diegrinder. Way back when.
I would add a second metal strap system to the bottom of the stump, vibration from impact could eventually cause the stump to loosen ... my opinion. Good content as usual, thanks for your time and effort, take care be well.
That’s a good idea. Personally I would have drilled through and locked it all together with all thread, the same way old butcher blocks are made.
Or because he has it near the top he could drop it down to half way, it should keep it together too, especially as he has it screwed together. But like you I would put a second strap around the bottom about two or three inches up.
I checked out Big Joe, there's a Big Joe goes under Motorcycle Cruiser on TH-cam.
I completely agree with a second row of tie bars around the bottom.
Nah, it will be fine.
Stronger is always better. Thanks for the insight! We will see how it holds up. Time will tell
I really enjoy seeing projects like this that most anyone could build using basic tools.
The one "odd" colored board end adds tons of character!
Yep, I agree!
Haha glad you like it! I wasn’t sure if I should have flipped it
With linseed oil the lighter the coat the faster it dries. You might find it takes longer this time around. The hole in the center, just drill it out to a common size and stuff a piece of dowel rod in it with a bit of wood glue. I like titebond 2 for wood glue. It dries quick and is very durable. Nice project! I really like the idea of using regular lumber for it.
I was thinking the same thing about the dowel in the center of the bowl. Great minds think alike. LOL
@@sacredshogun6325 yes they do lol
+1 for the dowel. I have even been known to rip down a piece to close to that square hole size, whittle one end into a taper and just drive it in hard, if you don't wanna drill it for the dowel.
Hi Karl. Linseed is great stuff. Best is to mix 50:50 with turpentine for the first coat which makes it really soak in and then full strength for second coat. The oil will swell the timber and keep it tight in place. Will make any cracks swell and stop them from opening up. Great video. Love your channel.
That’s a great tip thank you! Cheers!
Linseed oil looks cool on metal too. It’s a no discriminatory oil.
Congratulations Karl, you've just made what every blacksmith, and armourer through history calls a dishing stump! ;) Don't worry about getting Boiled Linseed Oil on the metal, blacksmiths have been using it as a metal finish since at least the US Civil War, and likely much, much longer. Armourers I knew back in the 70s used about the same design, but taller, and with a 2" Beech or Ironwood board instead of Nylon. The Primo Autobody guy I worked with back in the 80s called his a dishing stump too, but his Grandfather was a blacksmith... Oh, and Nylon in the Ottawa area, Canus Plastics, and I am pretty sure they are national...
Heh, I was just coming to the comments to share this! Well done brother of the hammer! May your forge never get clinkers and your pant legs never catch a spark!
@@IronAngelForge lol! Thanks, but as I mostly use either charcoal or propane, clinkers aren't much of a thing, and we will have to add "again" to the end of the 2nd part... But that is a very cool greeting. May your forge, as well never give you clinkers and may your pants never catch fire too!
As always I
N JOY the video’s that said.
It so cool how the grinder seems to be an extension of your hand be it metal or cellulose pulp!!!!
🤔😂🤣
As far as the hole in the bowl caused by the corners of the post just cut a piece and drive it in!!!!!!! Then re shape the bowl.
Just a thought?
Thanks for the hammering table idea, yes ,if you sold the stuff to make it ,it would be a good deal ,I would buy one ,I’m gonna look into your hammer too, thanks.
Wray schelin makes them from dimensional lumber. Good stuff man thanks for posting!
Wray also made the hammer Carl copied
Doesn't Wray Schelin sell these plans and the shaping mallet. Let's give credit where credit is due.
@@eaenlle I wasn’t aware that Wray sold those. I don’t think Karl is being disingenuous here, but sharing what he can. I do love watching Wray, as well. Learned a TON from him 🍻
Knowledge should not be owned, but shared for the benefit of all. Even if you must call it Copy it is still the best form of Flattery. I did like Proshaper's use of EPDM sheeting glued to the bowl, to grip the tucked metal to help trap the tucks and therefore increase the shrinking.
@@geraldelwood9660 totally agree!
great video on the stump..and u were right, everybody is a critic.. especially the ones that has never heard of a shrinking stump..and they sound like pros..lol.. iv made 2 of these for my anvils, in my shop..thanks for sharing..i enjoy ur videos..
Black Art Forge..
Thanks Jerry! Glad you are still digging the videos. I worked on the stump yesterday and it works wonders!
You have a great vives you ‘ ll one million-subscribers very quick
i watch most car restoration/custom car shows. your chanel is one of my favorites because of the quality and knowledge.
I'm just watching. I love watching your videos. It helps me at work fixing wrecked cars
I made one of those using an old stump and a circular saw. I plunged the saw many times into the stump going around in a circle. Then chipped the pieces out with a chisel. Worked great.
Turned out awesome
Nylon cutting board from any kitchen gadget section of department stores and often grocery stores. Variety of sizes styles and prices. Inexpensive generally.
Beautiful! There’s a TH-cam vid on making one similar with an anvil on top. Now burn your logo on the side.
Wray at Pro Shaper did an incredible shrinking stump. I love your information. Although you are into Hot Rods all your content is applicable for reso's of all types. Keep it comming
yes, Wray Schelin builds shrinking stumps from dimensioned lumber
Vice Grip Garage makes his shine juice with Linseed oil and paint thinner and sometimes WD-40. Thanks for sharing the stump build. I have a piece of old railroad track lag screwed to a piece of treated house support piling with a concrete base screwed on from the bottom. I is heavy enough to be useful but light enough that it can be moved with a two wheeled cart.
Raw linseed oil works even better. Boiled tends to be sticky. I'm a bricklayer by trade and we oil our wooden levels regularly. We use raw linseed oil to stop the stickiness of the boiled stuff collecting dust
Great advice thank you!
I kept yelling UHMW! Guess you couldn't hear me! :-)
I really enjoy your videos, you have great content and presentation, and Christina does an awesome job behind the camera and editing! You two make a great team! Keep up the great work!
Right there with ya it’s the franks red hot of the sawmill. Put that shit on everything
🙏🙏🙏
PE*
I've been working with metal my whole adult life doing fab work with heavy thick metal but I've learned more watching your videos lately than I ever thought possible over video. I build 1/14 scale semi trucks as a hobby and now going to build one all metal thanks to the things I've learned from your vids. Thank you for sharing your talent.
You’re very welcome Joey thank you for the support!
The first 2 seconds of the video made the whole thing worth it.
Hahahaha
if you really enjoy doing it don't stop. cant fault you not only fix/ make cars you make the tools along the way to aid you brilliant
I don’t know if it was already posted, but Jimmy Diresta built something similar but it was a base for an anvil.
another home run! thanks for the lesson and that idea about selling parts, absolutely! people like me living in a city can't wait!
LEXON LEXON I hate when that happens, you are the best don't worry about it Jim las vegas nv
I would recommend using the Linseed oil often, It will keep the wood from cracking and drying out . Drill a 1/4 inch hold about half way down in your wood hammer handles and fill them with linseed oil and plug the hole with a 1/4" dowel every few years and they will look like new for years. ( If the handles are in good shape when you add the oil) Great videos Carl.
The Fab Forums on TH-cam made a shrinking stump out of 4x4's and metal brackets similar to yours back in 2019. Very interesting project with some great tips. Thanks for sharing.
In Australia we can buy nylon kitchen bread cutting boards….very cheap and perfect for the block
Wray Schelin from Pro Shaper made a similar shrinking facilitator out of multiple pieces of 8x2 timber's in a box frame.
You can buy a High density Poly Ethylene chopping board and cut that down for the flat beating surface also and cheap and easily found from local kitchen supplies store or walmart/ K-Mart
Wray Schelin is a great metal master to watch. amazing guy. Love Lazze.
It was Wray who built a stump from lumber...
Another brilliant video Carl brilliant. 👌👌
HDPE is the plastic
I would recommend lumber that is not treated. Treated lumber tends to be softer crappier sticks. The perforations in the outside are to allow the treatment AKA poison to soak deeper into the wood. Splinters from treated lumber are damn near guaranteed to get infected. I also agree with through bolting the lumber since wood expands and contracts with the moisture in the air. Then whacking on it with a hammer can near guarantee those wood screws will eventually come loose. it wouldn't hurt to also glue the hell out of all the pieces as it goes together. My thoughts is bomb proof it for a "several life times" tool where your great grand kids could be using it. I built an anvil stand out of 2x4s and over built the hell out of it! Great video, looking forward to the how to use it video which is probably already out by now haha.
Karl, really enjoyed this one! I figured you were as I call it, self learned. No formal training beyond high school. Fortunatly for us we had opportunities to learn some skills in school & that set a foundation to build on. Those opportunities seem non existent today as our schools have been stripped of those type of classes. Thank you for sharing & caring. From one Skillbilly to another, Rock on brother!
I like that! “Skillbilly” 😆 your most welcome and thank you for the support! Cheers!
My definition of Skillbilly is a person with self learned or acquired abilities. Not self taught but self learned with no formal teaching (In my case nothing since high school). Learn as you go, or learn by doing & observing, use what you got or whatever works to get the job done! Karl, you are Skillbilly Supreme! Thanks for sharing Brother.
Thanks for another great video! Very cool
Hello, greetings from Chihuahua Mexico, thanks for the videos, yesterday I started to make for myself, today I want to finish and do tests,
Very nice work, Great idea, thanks for sharing
The plastic you might be talking about could be HDPE which is short for high density poly ethylene
Wray from Pro Shaper has a shrinking "facilitator" made from dimensional lumber. His has a rubber coating on it to hold the metal from moving as well. Cool vid as always and your teeth besides the one missing seem to be in good shape Karl!
Ha Hah Hah
hay Carl instead of buying the nylon by the piece go to supper market and you can get nylon cutting boards for cheep in different sizes and thickness just a suggestion keep up the good work always enjoy watching you make things
Kyle Voss at The Fab Forums I believe is who you were thinking of. He did something much like this.
Thank you for all your hard work we all learn from each other
I second this comment
👍👍👍😜🏴🦕🦄😁🤞✌
Wray scheming Proshaper,
i made a very basic and crude metalworking stump back a couple years ago. not as big a diameter , just lagged onto a couple 2x4s and braced at the bottom. used it to shape my fender patch panels...and a bag of play sand . cheap and it works.
Carl, thank you, these are now my favorite videos on TH-cam. My father had a body shop and my grandfather was a blacksmith, and I was the only one interested in inheriting their tools, many are handmade and are up to 100 years old ! I just have some very basic body work skills from just hanging around them, but still just a novice. I was going to send my old 66 Bronco to a body shop for some dent repairs, but since watching your videos I'm going to learn this stuff and attempt to do it myself ! And taking out these old tools brings back memories, thanks again !
Tony
Liking based on dog footage alone ;) this is an awesome project Karl very nice!!!!
You can use the oil on the steel also. It’s what top fuel frames were coated with back in the day to keep them from rusting.
Still a good coating to prevent rust on tools.
My hotrod has some on it. Gives it kinda a dull sheen.
@@stiffcockchopshop5365 but enough about your OnlyFans.
"I will be starting back on the Zephyr in January." and "Keep us honest!" are both quotes I think of as we approach these last few days of the month.
You are right. I was having this conversation yesterday with a friend. And honestly I need to just do it. I will focus on the caddy and model a mostly but like I said the zephyr is due for a hair cut to get the juices flowing
U.H.M.W. is the plastic you were trying to remember. Another one would be Polypropelene. Nylon 101 is the bomb!
Well Thanks Karl, for making Another tool video for a tool that I will have to make. I believe that’s 3 now that I am behind on. Great Video and looking forward to seeing your next one.
Thanks for this Great stump design Karl, it will be ideal for me to use as the anvil stand that I need.
I didn’t see it in the first 10 comments so UHMW. Another is HDPE. High Density Polyethylene. Great stuff for CNC and not as slippery as UHMW, but yeah not the same as nylon. Love the channel!!
Needs a base with locking casters but love it either way. One of my favorite channels
Wray Schelin. Pro Shaper Tools builds what he calls a shrinking facilitator from dimensional lumber which he covers with some sort of rubberized material. I’m going to make one from some some gluelam material that a company across the road from my shop leaves out on the street for the scavengers to take away
Hey Karl, just a note regarding the information that you provide us on these videos, the nuggets has you called them. After welding some sides on a flat stainless plate, I ended up with some distortion (oil canning) on the plate! I really need it to be straight, so I remembered the video you done on heat shrinking and decided to have a go at it… after a lot of cursing and swearing, I got the hang of it and managed to get the plate straight again. All it needs now is dressing and sanding smooth. So yeah, keep on feeding us this bits as they become very useful when the right situation comes along… Now I have to thank you for saving my part 😊😊
You’re so welcome! I’m glad to hear that you were able to get the plate shrunk to save your piece!
@@MakeItKustom hopefully I can planish it to be as good as new. It’s a vibration conveyor runner, so it needs to be as flat as possible.
I'm in Wi and use a place called Speedy Metals for sheet and whatever. They also carry some plastics so I would check your local metal supplier, you might be surprised at what they have.
Great video as always. The only thing I would have done is that I would have added some wood glue between the pieces before screwing them together.
You beat me to the comment.
Gotta say - love your attitude Man! You're so easy to listen to because you're that rare breed of artisan who is insanely talented yet humble, keep it up and I'll keep tunin' in!
So kind of you to say Jason. Thank you
Amber Shellac dries in under an hour. It will protect the wood and the metal, and it looks so cool. My Grandfather used to coat all his garden tools and wheelbarrows.
i would throw in some construction adhesive between the blocks (pl400) to keep the blocks from ever shifting around. awesome project!
love your enthousiasm and skill, keep em coming Karl!
Nice. Can't wait to see it in action!! I broke bad and picked up a HF English Wheel this week. Thank you for all of the great content and inspiration to get out there and work on my projects. A note about Linseed oil, I am told it will combust if left on rags. I usually use a cloth to apply it to metal I am working, tongs and punches etc.
That’s interesting about the combustion! Thanks for the caution. Good luck with the wheel! They are a lot of fun
There are several comments below that are close and are referring to the right thing: polyethylene. It's basically the same plastic as milk jugs. UHMW-PE = ultra high molecular weight polyethylene.
love the diversity of this site.
I've seen this idea a few times Carl and yours looks the mutts with the lump of nylon. Hope the oil didn't take too long to dry or actually soak in . Very enjoyable considering as you say you know nothing about wood . I wish with the amount of channels on TH-cam doing metal fabricating I was 20 years younger . Looking forwards to the video of you getting stuck in and christening it . Thanks
You can use that stuff on wood and metal. That little hole doesn’t matter. Lay it on thick. I like to use a rag but a brush works too. Main thing with BLO is if you leave rags soaked in that stuff, it will spontaneously combust.
Enjoy watching u build ur tools
I work for a package company, we label and box foam display boards. Our labeling machine has nylon blocks on the label stamper, it's 3"x4"x1/2" with a cost of $500 each.
The whole machine is 500 each or just the blocks LOL? My nylon was definitely not that expensive
@@MakeItKustom just the blocks. They have holes drilled in them to mount them to the stamper on the machine and has several air holes drilled through also
Boiled linseed oil thinned with turpentine protects metal pretty good too. Quick wipe with a rag to touch up. Vintage aircraft with steel tube fuselages treated the inside of the tubing with linseed oil.
Maby nylon boards you can buy in a store as a meat cutimg block.
Im using stump for anwile. Looks like its time to get another one.
Cheers.🍻
Looking at your Mother Tucker Hammer, I have to say I am very interested in it! But like you said "Not everybody has access to a lathe!" And I certainly am "that guy"!
Too explain that a little further, FIRST keep in mind I live in a trailer park....so I don't have access to a "shop space" and that what work area I have is tiny!! My "shop" is an 8 foot by 8 foot addition I build to the front of an old 8 foot by 8 foot shed!! Math being what it is basically I have an "8 foot by 16 foot" shop, buy most of that other "8 feet" is tool storage space!!
Great idea mine rotted out also
Karl I love watching your videos! Not only are you a talent in all things metal, but you are clear and concise on your reasoning behind what your doing. Very inspiring and and I’ve learned a lot from you. Cheers!
Glad to hear it Brad thank you very much!
Any kind of oil is good for wood like that, I use old motor oil on my anvil stump. Wood will shrink up and crack as it dries out but as long as you keep it oiled it will virtually make it waterproof and rot proof and shouldn’t start cracking. And your metal straps won’t rust either if you just keep the whole thing oily. Looks beautiful 👍
Looking great
The video just began and I haven't watched any of it yet.
My first thought is, as good as you are, your TIG welder ain't going to do the job.
...and now back to the video😁
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and your 'tips and tricks' in all of your videos! This world needs to pass on more knowledge to our youth; so much has been lost in the last couple of decades. Keep it up, and thanks again!
Carl, you very talented! You can even make a stump look good! Enjoyed the video! Thanks!
On my stump, I put the ring lower because I put smaller rings to hold hammers and other tools. I also mounted a post vice. Stumps will dry out and crack so I put the finest oil can buy. My truck has a lot of it. I also mounted two casters on one side so it acts like a hand cart if you want to move it. I ask an old blacksmith why her burn hid hammers and stump. He told me that it sealed it and kept the bugs out. After burning I sand and varnish everything including the strap. Looks good.
Ron Covell is awesome!
Cracking job and as ever you get the message across concisely. Be well and stay safe. UK.
24-36 hours😨😱😰😫 like watching paint dry.. Is it dry yet! Is it dry yet! Just love your work guys.
Your great at building what's needed in the shop I'm thinking of building a engine test stand would love to hear your ideas
I’d start with a 2x2” square tube frame and get some square tube made for hitch receivers (smooth on the inside and 2x2 slides nice into it) use that for your engine mount brackets. That way, you can adjust for different engines? Just a thought
if you heat your brackets up and slop the boiled linseed oil on and let it absorb in the pores, you will get the authentic 'blacksmithed' look and never have to worry about messing up whatever 'modern' finish you may have in mind.....it'll last indefinitely, especially if you're like me and NEVER hit it with an errant blow.....lmao
p.s. were you thinking of HDPE (high density polyethylene)....good stuff for the right job....try to grind on delrin; that was what sold me on it...I used it for bushings and MANY other things...good stuff. I always enjoy your vids convinces me there may be hope yet for another run at 'Made in America' greatness
I believe the plastic you are thinking about is HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene). I buy my project metal and plastics from ALRO. They seem to be in many of the major cities here in the USA. Don't know if they have a presence in Canada. They also have outlet centers that carry remnants at nearly scrap metal prices. It's a great day when you find what you need in their remnant section. 😁
You always need the right toll to do the job right, and as always Karl you have made the right tool to do the job! Love watching you work out all of the details and how you solve problems!
For the hole in the center of the four chunks, you can drill it out and drive a dowel the same size as the drill bit into the now round hole...
If you put the linseed oil on the metal and rub it in it will make the metal shine and also slow down the rusting that will inevitably form on the steel. I would coat the whole stump to help preventing it from cracking especially on the ends. You should also periodically re coat the stump to keep it preserved.
Just love watching your videos, so informative and interesting and love the fact you always relate what you are doing to us regular guys who dont have power tools to do every job. I have some cut off railway sleepers in garden that I was unsure what to do with, I know now. Thanks guys and keep up all the different awesome videos. Jeff from Birmingham, England
if the hole in the middle of your shrinking stump becomes an issue, you can always fill it with some epoxy! Great video!
Timing on this is crazy i have been thinking about trying this i have not been able to find a stump large enough to do this that is not already firewood but i was thinking of running some dowels thru it and glueing it together might go metal strap route instead also never seen the plastic i like that will see if i can find it near me also had thought about one big bowl one side and 2 smaller sizes on other side definitely going to give it a try thanks again
Linseed oil is very flammable. If you put the rags together in a pail. It’s a fire hazard can ignite without a spark. Most hang the rag dry them out then throw them out.