An old mechanic told me over 50 years ago when I was just a young whipper snapper that when ever you have with a problem with a 12V system its the ground. He has proven right about 90% of the time.
boy am i glad to have found this video of yours. i have a 98 fld classic with a 12.7 derroit. n my cruise up n quit workin on day. so im gonna try n dig into that n see what we come up with. i asked my mechanics n they are always to busy to actually sit n talk n try to trouble shoot mentally. or maybe they just dont have the capacity for that idk. but thank u alot
fuse is blown it dont run or if its a two fuse system it runs on three cylinders the power fuses run the injecters there is more than just them two or one fusses to a DDEC they also have a ignition wire that energize the battery leads and parts the other parts of the DDEC like cruise pto opti idle jakes
I did a 2 part series on how I diagnose no start about a year ago, it had a lot of bad connections in the battery box and under the hood that ended up damaging the starter. It's in my playlist of truck repair and playlist of auto electric.
@@bobbyhamilton7751 Right behind the Jake switch...(The ground wire), run a splice from that and ground it yourself ....Good place I did was an ground by the fuel peddle
It's not enough to keep all the ground connections clean and tight, they have some of them hidden where you can't do maintenance. I re-routed a wire that goes to the temp sensor a few years back because it originally went behind the head and when I pulled it out it had been clean sliced through the insulation about an inch but not through the copper yet, just shorting out the circuit and I never found what cut that wire, even the 2 times I did the clutch since that happened I could not see what could have cut that wire. If I did it the 1st time I did the clutch 15 years ago, I think I would have seen a sign of a pinched wire when I did the 2nd clutch but nothing of the kind. just one of those mysteries in the dark.
Those things flex & vibrate so much you could have grounds on every bolt & probably half of them would break off. They literally are engineered to fail :(
I'd be fine with your fix, it could take forever to find that bundle of grounds, most of these older trucks have had a hard life, not running up and down a flat highway. Imagine if this happen in in a new truck it would be at the dealer for a year with all that wiring and switched grounds can buss networks they would probably replace the whole harness.
Hey gordon hows that repair working out for you, I have a similar problem with my oil pressure light cominy on, oil pressure gauge reads manually from the oil cooler, 50 psi cold, 45 psi at operating temp idling, I know that light is not true, I replaced my oil pressure sensor, No cigar.. were exactly did you wire that ground to?? The jake brake switch right ?? My truck has the shutdown and it sucks because i dont need it to be shutting down at the worst moment ..... Will this ground problem also cause my Rpm gauge and Speedometer to not read ?? None of them read?? The engine had an overhaul done and the oil pump is brand new, again the manual gauge reads 50 psi cold, 45 at operating temps.. It has to be an electrical problem... Hmmmm
Did you ever find out what the problem is with your RPM and speedometer gauges? I have the same problem. I posted this video a few days ago. Please view it and let me know if that is the problem you had. Thanks. looking forward to your reply. th-cam.com/video/Z5-k6R4ZMVg/w-d-xo.html
Buy a power probe 3 and a harbor freight test light. The power probe has a ground lead on it and I connect my test light to that. My theory is if it will light the test light the circuit can carry current
I bet they all meet at one of those fish sinker crimps, then a heavier pigtail lugs to the ground, and that pigtail has gone rotten, or the lug point has. That's the upside to a pricey factory service manual, the ground circuits and lug points are usually well illustrated and described. A decent schematic is ok, but those factory manuals can really save you wishing for stalk mounted lobster eyes and tentacle fingers. Lol.
Yeah, they come together somewhere. I'll look for it someday. This week I have bodywork to do on it and a lot of work to be done on the property before I go back to work next week.
Too many things it could be, 1st place I would look is the temp sensor and it's wiring for shorts to ground. It's located on right side of head near the back.
I never did that on a truck but if you have a Detroit like mine, the oil pressure switch is above the starter screwed into the block or maybe the head, I don't remember. You must still use the original switch because it is wired to the computer and will screw up the computer's reading sensors. You can take the switch out and put a "T" in the hole and reinstall the switch and have a port to install a mechanical gauge. Good luck.
Hello mr Gordon I have a 1999 freightliner fls112 Detroit 60 and I cant seem to get my engine fan to engage automatically, changed sensors cooling temp n others but no luck any ideas thanks in advance
engage or disengage? should fail safe, that means be stuck on if something's wrong. If it won't come on then the fan clutch is shot or the belts are loose or missing.
@@57bagre thank you sir yes belt was loose no more squealing , but ac is working good while running but once I stop to get loaded itll go to 60 degrees when normal is at 38 , the temperature for this freightliner dump truck is always 180 to 190 never goes over that , it barely started doing that around a 2 weeks ago , thanks in advance blessings
How does your a/c work now that your fan is coming on? if the fan does not come on when the truck is idling and the a/c is on then maybe the high pressure switch isn't working right.
Not enough money in trucking to afford a new truck, your good to go with the old Freightliner till the emissions regulations catch up to your state. Trying to fix wiring that somebody else that's been into with 10 butt connectors and 3 different color wires, that's when I rip out the mess and redo it.
i see u get lots of help from the comments but nothing in the comments is going to help like this the DDEC III runs on 5 volt all grounds jake cruise park clutch and brake pedal share the same ground. the DDEC III in theory is isolated from frame ground but does ground at batterys the reason the isolated ground wires run straight back to the DDEC III is to stop interference from outside signals thats why u got a frame ground to work im sending a link to a schematic that will explain u seem like a person that needs to see it if u look at fig 54.17 u will see the common ground for a isolated ground back to ecm the wire is D953 u will find this wire at the end of all switches that the DDEC runs like brake pedal switch its air button behind steering wheel on thru body air junction block not easy to get to also low air warning is down there too but the parking brake air switch is right there on the panel u removed to add ground wire look at the numbers on wires u will find the DDEC is a ground sensing unit all 5 volts out all lead back to this D953 www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/DDEC_III-IV/2011-10-07_013933_DDEC_II_Wiring.pdf
if i had to guess u got a green pin on your DDEC and it using the frame ground and all other sensors are back feeding thru your wire u put in to frame ground but for starters i would use a multi meter and test clutch switch for ground after u unhook that jumper u put in just to prove weather u have lost all DDEC grounds or just one. another spot to test for a DDEC ground would b at parking brake air switch right on the backside of the parking brake button then the parking brake signal wire runs thru saftey neutral switch then hood tilt switch if opti idle equip then parking brake thru to ECM ground D953 iv been watching your videos and u have been doing transmission work i would look close at harness that go to neutral switch there is a plug in down there that has a loop plug into it that just flops in the wind and gets rubbed it will raise hell with ecm every time it touches the ground till it rubs out and brakes the cruise circuit because the engine thinks the hood is open or u foot is on clutch or u are not in neutral i no im rambling but look at the schematic and it should help another schematic i just found for all freightliner lover its a peterbuilt schematic but all wiring outside is detroit diesel wiring www.cpsmechanical.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/sk25038.pdf
An old mechanic told me over 50 years ago when I was just a young whipper snapper that when ever you have with a problem with a 12V system its the ground. He has proven right about 90% of the time.
boy am i glad to have found this video of yours. i have a 98 fld classic with a 12.7 derroit. n my cruise up n quit workin on day. so im gonna try n dig into that n see what we come up with. i asked my mechanics n they are always to busy to actually sit n talk n try to trouble shoot mentally. or maybe they just dont have the capacity for that idk. but thank u alot
My 97, ECM had a fuse protector at the battery Box. The terminal crimp was loose, broken wires. Glad your quick fix got you going, great tip.
That will shut her down in a hurry. I always check that one whenever I'm in the battery box.
fuse is blown it dont run or if its a two fuse system it runs on three cylinders the power fuses run the injecters there is more than just them two or one fusses to a DDEC they also have a ignition wire that energize the battery leads and parts the other parts of the DDEC like cruise pto opti idle jakes
I had the engine shut down light come on 98 classic. It was due to positive cable not connected to battery. Very useful information 👍
I did a 2 part series on how I diagnose no start about a year ago, it had a lot of bad connections in the battery box and under the hood that ended up damaging the starter. It's in my playlist of truck repair and playlist of auto electric.
You saved me a lot of money 💰 THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO 📹 🙏
I usually just start tugging on ground connections; eventually I come to one which comes apart with little or no resistance. Good fix, too.
I did this on my 2004 freightliner and was so happy when my jakes started back working.
I haven't heard from you in a while Mark. I hope you're doing ok!
@@57bagre Mr. Gordon everything is fine I still be in tune with all your vidoes.I even share it on social media
which wires exactly did you ground??
@@bobbyhamilton7751 Right behind the Jake switch...(The ground wire), run a splice from that and ground it yourself ....Good place I did was an ground by the fuel peddle
When I saw the title a bad ground was my immediate thought, bad grounds drive the ecu nuts :)
It's not enough to keep all the ground connections clean and tight, they have some of them hidden where you can't do maintenance. I re-routed a wire that goes to the temp sensor a few years back because it originally went behind the head and when I pulled it out it had been clean sliced through the insulation about an inch but not through the copper yet, just shorting out the circuit and I never found what cut that wire, even the 2 times I did the clutch since that happened I could not see what could have cut that wire. If I did it the 1st time I did the clutch 15 years ago, I think I would have seen a sign of a pinched wire when I did the 2nd clutch but nothing of the kind. just one of those mysteries in the dark.
Those things flex & vibrate so much you could have grounds on every bolt & probably half of them would break off. They literally are engineered to fail :(
It may not look nice but you got to do what you have to do in a pinch sometimes. Another good fix Gordo!
I'd be fine with your fix, it could take forever to find that bundle of grounds, most of these older trucks have had a hard life, not running up and down a flat highway. Imagine if this happen in in a new truck it would be at the dealer for a year with all that wiring and switched grounds can buss networks they would probably replace the whole harness.
It's still like that, I don't have time to hunt it down yet. Thanks for watching.
Great tip. Thank you. I love your videos !
Thanks for watching.
grounds is one of the biggest problems in older trucks we are always looking for them
All equipment and even in house electric have issues with loose or corroded connections and grounds can cause weird things to happen.
Thanks for share your knowledge Sr.
I love that truck, excellent video 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Do you have any advice on getting fast idle to work? 98 fld series 60. Cruise works fine.
How to troubleshoot engine protect light.? Detroit diesiel s60 12.7 thank you sir.
Hey gordon hows that repair working out for you, I have a similar problem with my oil pressure light cominy on, oil pressure gauge reads manually from the oil cooler, 50 psi cold, 45 psi at operating temp idling, I know that light is not true, I replaced my oil pressure sensor, No cigar.. were exactly did you wire that ground to?? The jake brake switch right ?? My truck has the shutdown and it sucks because i dont need it to be shutting down at the worst moment ..... Will this ground problem also cause my Rpm gauge and Speedometer to not read ?? None of them read?? The engine had an overhaul done and the oil pump is brand new, again the manual gauge reads 50 psi cold, 45 at operating temps.. It has to be an electrical problem... Hmmmm
Did you ever find out what the problem is with your RPM and speedometer gauges? I have the same problem. I posted this video a few days ago. Please view it and let me know if that is the problem you had. Thanks. looking forward to your reply.
th-cam.com/video/Z5-k6R4ZMVg/w-d-xo.html
Buy a power probe 3 and a harbor freight test light. The power probe has a ground lead on it and I connect my test light to that. My theory is if it will light the test light the circuit can carry current
Nice wristwatch lol
He's a wheel watcher.
@@t-bone7782 lol
I bet they all meet at one of those fish sinker crimps, then a heavier pigtail lugs to the ground, and that pigtail has gone rotten, or the lug point has. That's the upside to a pricey factory service manual, the ground circuits and lug points are usually well illustrated and described. A decent schematic is ok, but those factory manuals can really save you wishing for stalk mounted lobster eyes and tentacle fingers. Lol.
Yeah, they come together somewhere. I'll look for it someday. This week I have bodywork to do on it and a lot of work to be done on the property before I go back to work next week.
I keep losing my data link on a Columbia sometimes. Been chasing for a while now. But if I drive down the road 30 miles everything is fine.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching.
Thank you!
my Detroit keeps shutting down when the engine fan comes on and the check engine light comes on what could it be
Too many things it could be, 1st place I would look is the temp sensor and it's wiring for shorts to ground. It's located on right side of head near the back.
Gordon could you give me some help on hooking up oil pressure mechanical guage
I never did that on a truck but if you have a Detroit like mine, the oil pressure switch is above the starter screwed into the block or maybe the head, I don't remember. You must still use the original switch because it is wired to the computer and will screw up the computer's reading sensors. You can take the switch out and put a "T" in the hole and reinstall the switch and have a port to install a mechanical gauge. Good luck.
@@57bagre Thanks so much Mr . Gordon and yes I have detroit 60 series 14.L
Fucking life saver
Hello mr Gordon I have a 1999 freightliner fls112 Detroit 60 and I cant seem to get my engine fan to engage automatically, changed sensors cooling temp n others but no luck any ideas thanks in advance
engage or disengage? should fail safe, that means be stuck on if something's wrong. If it won't come on then the fan clutch is shot or the belts are loose or missing.
@@57bagre thank you sir yes belt was loose no more squealing , but ac is working good while running but once I stop to get loaded itll go to 60 degrees when normal is at 38 , the temperature for this freightliner dump truck is always 180 to 190 never goes over that , it barely started doing that around a 2 weeks ago , thanks in advance blessings
How does your a/c work now that your fan is coming on? if the fan does not come on when the truck is idling and the a/c is on then maybe the high pressure switch isn't working right.
@@57bagre yes sir I replaced both of those sensors and still no luch even replaced cooling temp sensor too
I'd have to put the gauges on it to see what's going on.
that is a dirty truck my friend!
Time to order a brand new truck 😁 I hate working on wiring it’s so frustrating 😡
A new truck would mean no truck repair videos. I don't mind electric work, it's when I can't get to where I need to go to find the problem.
Not enough money in trucking to afford a new truck, your good to go with the old Freightliner till the emissions regulations catch up to your state. Trying to fix wiring that somebody else that's been into with 10 butt connectors and 3 different color wires, that's when I rip out the mess and redo it.
New truck?! Man you guys just love to dig yourself deeper and deeper in to this trucking shit... I deal with my old junk thank you but no thank you
My Jake's won't works what type of signal come to the on and off switch on where those it came from
Has a unit with a problem of a sort.
Nice fix,
Thanks Ted.
i see u get lots of help from the comments but nothing in the comments is going to help like this the DDEC III runs on 5 volt all grounds jake cruise park clutch and brake pedal share the same ground. the DDEC III in theory is isolated from frame ground but does ground at batterys the reason the isolated ground wires run straight back to the DDEC III is to stop interference from outside signals thats why u got a frame ground to work im sending a link to a schematic that will explain u seem like a person that needs to see it if u look at fig 54.17 u will see the common ground for a isolated ground back to ecm the wire is D953 u will find this wire at the end of all switches that the DDEC runs like brake pedal switch its air button behind steering wheel on thru body air junction block not easy to get to also low air warning is down there too but the parking brake air switch is right there on the panel u removed to add ground wire look at the numbers on wires u will find the DDEC is a ground sensing unit all 5 volts out all lead back to this D953 www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/DDEC_III-IV/2011-10-07_013933_DDEC_II_Wiring.pdf
if i had to guess u got a green pin on your DDEC and it using the frame ground and all other sensors are back feeding thru your wire u put in to frame ground but for starters i would use a multi meter and test clutch switch for ground after u unhook that jumper u put in just to prove weather u have lost all DDEC grounds or just one. another spot to test for a DDEC ground would b at parking brake air switch right on the backside of the parking brake button then the parking brake signal wire runs thru saftey neutral switch then hood tilt switch if opti idle equip then parking brake thru to ECM ground D953 iv been watching your videos and u have been doing transmission work i would look close at harness that go to neutral switch there is a plug in down there that has a loop plug into it that just flops in the wind and gets rubbed it will raise hell with ecm every time it touches the ground till it rubs out and brakes the cruise circuit because the engine thinks the hood is open or u foot is on clutch or u are not in neutral i no im rambling but look at the schematic and it should help another schematic i just found for all freightliner lover its a peterbuilt schematic but all wiring outside is detroit diesel wiring www.cpsmechanical.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/sk25038.pdf
Never use twelve volts to test a 5 volt DDEC if the smoke escapes from the DDEC it is bricked after all thats all thats in them DDEC my daddy told me.
You seem to know a lot about electrical issues. Do you do outside work?
I'm surprised your Freightshaker hasn't burned yet. They seem to have a tendency to go up in smoke from electrical fires.
That truck must have been a POS when you got il!