Loving the videos! My advice would be to try the 3.64 ratio. I do lots of drag racing in my 335i (auto trans 06 built) and with a 25.8" tall tyre I'm trapping 128mph (206km/h) in 4th gear at 6600rpm. With your new gear ratio (assuming same tyre diameter) you'll hit 200km/h at 6800rpm and should improve your time. 275/40 R17 tyres work wonders
Did you get a custom 3.64 ratio with the stock housing or is it a complete aftermarket unit? I was looking into those 8.8 ford differentials and DSS axles but they cost the price of the car lol.
I think You really need a 3:15 diff , they were made with some Bmws , you should pull 100-200 in 3rd with a slightly raised rev limiter . My friend had one put in his turbo Bmw
Ran into stuck axles many times on e30s ,36s , 46 , 39 etc ..just had it with my personal e90 335i ... I usually use an oxy/act torch get it hot hot ..get my 8" 3 jaw puller on it impact it ...beat the hell out of the forcing screw with a sledge , hammer it with the impact , reheat , beat the forcing screw ...have always been able to get it out like that and that's working in the rust belt of Canada .
Mate I love your channel. It's so informative and you've got tons of content coming out quick. Hope you get the views and the subscribers you really deserve.
Haha yes the LSD! Can't wait to see it. But yeah, I'd say do it right the first time if you haven't done it yet. Keep your diff gears, but if you have time, slap that one straight in and do a comparison. More videos 👍
I noticed when i did the coil overs, the diff housing i got wont actually bolt up to my tail shaft. So i will have to swap the centres. That's when i realised i needed a special tool to get my tail shaft out. Pain in the back side.
It is amazing how the axle becomes one with the bearing. This was soaking with kill rust for the best part of 3 weeks. It didnt put up too much of a fight against the sledge hammer today.
I have a very similar issue with another car, but wanting to swap to open diff to LSD, but my issue is I've gone from AWD to RWD by deleting the FWD, turns out my F to R ratio is different and and now i need to bring my ratio back to correct my speedo at the same time I go LSD., hopefully the front gears bolt into the rear housing so I don't need to go custom.
I would just put it in, on one hand there is more actual torque to the rear but on the other hand it gets halved as well... I would sacrifice a little 100-200kmh time (from gear change) to be able to get full traction in third. Also, as these are not the strongest of clutch plates perhaps swapping them into the 3.4 ratio diff would place more stress on them perhaps? It's a toss up hey.
I would try it first to get a better idea. My mates M3 btw was awesome, 2018 6 cylinder twin turbo, Tekno tuned 500 wbhp an absolute weapon, wheels cost $1500 a piece
Use the LSD with your original ratio. You already have way more torque than the original final ratio was meant for. To go with the 3.64 would make it even worse. You said you are spinning in third, right? Third!!! Do it right the first time.
I think with the LSD you should have much better traction so I'd say try the 3.64 ratio. It's not just double the traction since before you were spinning with any bump since a single wheel coming up meant no power put down whatsoever. With the LSD you'll need both wheels to spin at the same time, or a bump that throws both wheels off the ground. Much less likely. The coilovers you're getting will probably also do a better job of keeping your wheels on the ground, your current setup looks like it's basically all spring. I'd try the 3.64, wait till you get the coilovers and if it's still too rowdy, then try a lower ratio. 👍
Put that center in your diff man and keep your gear ratios will only make it want to spin more potentially 4th and take away some of the load you need to keep those turbos on song... will also mean an extra shift.. as quickly as you put em in there you'll be taking them back out 🤔😊
I think i might see how long it takes me to to get the diff out of the car. If its magically 30 mins, i might run the 3.64, but if its like eveything else i do and 30 hours, i'll just do it once i think haha
@@ZeroTo60Tube lol yeah man makes sence see how it goes to remove it the 3.6s would be way better if you could get some traction maby a tyre upgrade at the same time?
It’s a bit like left foot braking you go from coasting to one wheel driven then to two wheel drive ! I concur with earlier 30% NA scenario in 130i as for hitting 200kmh in third put put it into a calculator. You got a ramp stick it in and try it. I think you will be selling it on before you cook it you need M3 diff as I commented in previous video in my opinion as I say I went ATB but not sure it right for you .And so it begins you try save money and just end up frying stuff brakes as well from our experience. Tits orTyres Trouble and Costly ;)
When I was purchasing my Helical style diff from MFactory both up to 02/2007 and from 02/2007 used the same 3.64 ratio so that should be the same ratio of yours now unless I over looked something
Pazi88 did a real world evaluation on that diff conversion set. It wore out in about 3 months if recall. That was on a (I think) M52B25 (or28) turbo build, E30. It put me off the idea at least.
I have just found your channel and I am really enjoying watching. Also a FYI, hitting hardened hammers together is a very bad idea. I knew someone who had a shard from a hardened steel hammer cut their femoral artery. They ended up losing a lot of blood and had a helicopter ride to hospital.
If you have good control over power delivery through boost or drive by wire, shorter is the way to go. Taller will be the better option if you have limited control and judging by your past boost by gear video this is the safer bet. It will make good content for your channel if you can be bothered testing both.
I think you're right. We'll see how much of a paint it is to get my diff out. If its easy, i will run the 3.64 and see what its like. Can always swap it again later.
Those inserts are a scam. Might be ok for a low power NA car, but there's videos where they are flogged out within a month. If you're lucky it might be 10-15% lock (M-perf diff's are 30% lock std)
A few people in the rally crowd have tried phantom grips. Even with a low powered car, they said the name was extremely accurate because they couldn't tell it was there...
so if you use the current diff casing, how does th prop line up as the prop end of the diff is bolted with 3 bolts but the 335i auo diff the propshaft slips onto the output part on the diff? very interested.....im the guy who just welded my diff and coded the e diff out for cheeky duggits lol
Gday Guys, great video as usual. Ive been building race cars (proper race cars not old hacks) for over 20 years. If you go to "wallaceracing.com"they have an amasing range of power/speed calculators. If you click and choose the calculator you want it will work out any information you need. It will work out ET, power to weight, what revs at what speed, what power your car has etc. Ive been using it as a guide for many years and it is extremely accurate. If you need a hand with anything please let me know and im more then happy to help out in anyway I can. I also live in SE QLD. Keep the great content coming. Cheers, Mick
You will effectively increase your traction times 2 since you will have to slip both wheels to lose traction now dring acceleration, I think it would be worth a shot. Your fifth gear concern is valid but it more a taste thing, also I dont remember how much the TCU allows for a speed difference between expected and actual (if it has it on the auto dunno at least the DCT in mine is known to be anoyed easily) but Im pretty sure thats what should make the call.
It doesn’t quite work that way. Whether you have an open diff or a locked diff it will still take the same torque before one tire begins slipping. Once one tire is slipping it’s now experiencing kinetic friction instead of static friction, which can be 25% less. But with a mechanical diff or electronic diff they both will redistribute torque to the wheel with grip. So in a steady state condition you shouldn’t see a difference. Where they differ is in the transient conditions.
Well im not doing any circuit work, so there wont be any times when i am really heavy on the throttle through a sweeping corner. Im hoping ill get away with the Mfactory, for the occasional slide and straight line hard acceleration.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Oh yea I keep forgetting Ali already popped the OS Giken number in it. They are brilliant. Any plans to I/C or meth inject for additional silliness?
Loving the videos! My advice would be to try the 3.64 ratio. I do lots of drag racing in my 335i (auto trans 06 built) and with a 25.8" tall tyre I'm trapping 128mph (206km/h) in 4th gear at 6600rpm. With your new gear ratio (assuming same tyre diameter) you'll hit 200km/h at 6800rpm and should improve your time. 275/40 R17 tyres work wonders
Did you get a custom 3.64 ratio with the stock housing or is it a complete aftermarket unit? I was looking into those 8.8 ford differentials and DSS axles but they cost the price of the car lol.
Yeah give it a go with the 3.64, a diff change doesn’t take much time given you have a lift
this. its an interesting comparison...which is what the channels about,yes?
I think You really need a 3:15 diff , they were made with some Bmws , you should pull 100-200 in 3rd with a slightly raised rev limiter . My friend had one put in his turbo Bmw
Love your content guys. May the algorithm bless you and your endeavours 🙏
Try it with the 3.64. Having a proper lsd will drastically change your grip levels while accelerating
Ran into stuck axles many times on e30s ,36s , 46 , 39 etc ..just had it with my personal e90 335i ... I usually use an oxy/act torch get it hot hot ..get my 8" 3 jaw puller on it impact it ...beat the hell out of the forcing screw with a sledge , hammer it with the impact , reheat , beat the forcing screw ...have always been able to get it out like that and that's working in the rust belt of Canada .
Mate I love your channel. It's so informative and you've got tons of content coming out quick. Hope you get the views and the subscribers you really deserve.
Thank you. Hopefully we’ll keep getting shared around so more people find out about us.
Definitely wear safety glasses when hitting two hardened steels together! Like two hammers
Im running a 347 on top of my old 345.. 6th gearcis better but the rest still kicks out. L98 ss mamnual. More driveabilty than skids
Hell yeah timed runs on different gears sets would be cool content 🤙🏽
I say use your diff and put the center from the other diff in your cars diff if it’s gonna help with traction.
Haha yes the LSD! Can't wait to see it. But yeah, I'd say do it right the first time if you haven't done it yet. Keep your diff gears, but if you have time, slap that one straight in and do a comparison. More videos 👍
I noticed when i did the coil overs, the diff housing i got wont actually bolt up to my tail shaft. So i will have to swap the centres. That's when i realised i needed a special tool to get my tail shaft out. Pain in the back side.
I still have the exactly the same issue with a e92 m3 axle being solid in the hub. 50 ton press didn’t even budge it a mm.
It is amazing how the axle becomes one with the bearing. This was soaking with kill rust for the best part of 3 weeks. It didnt put up too much of a fight against the sledge hammer today.
Use your diff ratio or go to a manual 3.08 or m3 manual 3.15. You don’t need programming changes for any ratio change.
I have a very similar issue with another car, but wanting to swap to open diff to LSD, but my issue is I've gone from AWD to RWD by deleting the FWD, turns out my F to R ratio is different and and now i need to bring my ratio back to correct my speedo at the same time I go LSD., hopefully the front gears bolt into the rear housing so I don't need to go custom.
Wow. Cant wait to see how it is with the lsd fitted.
I'd say give it a shot. You won't know till you try. It's not all that much work for a straight swap.....
I would just put it in, on one hand there is more actual torque to the rear but on the other hand it gets halved as well... I would sacrifice a little 100-200kmh time (from gear change) to be able to get full traction in third. Also, as these are not the strongest of clutch plates perhaps swapping them into the 3.4 ratio diff would place more stress on them perhaps? It's a toss up hey.
I have one of those racing diffs in my 540it and it's never spun 2 wheels even just as soon as I put it in
I would try it first to get a better idea. My mates M3 btw was awesome, 2018 6 cylinder twin turbo, Tekno tuned 500 wbhp an absolute weapon, wheels cost $1500 a piece
Use the LSD with your original ratio. You already have way more torque than the original final ratio was meant for. To go with the 3.64 would make it even worse. You said you are spinning in third, right? Third!!! Do it right the first time.
I would love to see a detailed video on all of the diff stuff man!
I think you need the stickiest of the sticky tires
I think with the LSD you should have much better traction so I'd say try the 3.64 ratio. It's not just double the traction since before you were spinning with any bump since a single wheel coming up meant no power put down whatsoever. With the LSD you'll need both wheels to spin at the same time, or a bump that throws both wheels off the ground. Much less likely. The coilovers you're getting will probably also do a better job of keeping your wheels on the ground, your current setup looks like it's basically all spring. I'd try the 3.64, wait till you get the coilovers and if it's still too rowdy, then try a lower ratio. 👍
Put that center in your diff man and keep your gear ratios will only make it want to spin more potentially 4th and take away some of the load you need to keep those turbos on song... will also mean an extra shift.. as quickly as you put em in there you'll be taking them back out 🤔😊
I think i might see how long it takes me to to get the diff out of the car. If its magically 30 mins, i might run the 3.64, but if its like eveything else i do and 30 hours, i'll just do it once i think haha
@@ZeroTo60Tube lol yeah man makes sence see how it goes to remove it the 3.6s would be way better if you could get some traction maby a tyre upgrade at the same time?
It’s a bit like left foot braking you go from coasting to one wheel driven then to two wheel drive ! I concur with earlier 30% NA scenario in 130i as for hitting 200kmh in third put put it into a calculator. You got a ramp stick it in and try it. I think you will be selling it on before you cook it you need M3 diff as I commented in previous video in my opinion as I say I went ATB but not sure it right for you .And so it begins you try save money and just end up frying stuff brakes as well from our experience. Tits orTyres Trouble and Costly ;)
When I was purchasing my Helical style diff from MFactory both up to 02/2007 and from 02/2007 used the same 3.64 ratio so that should be the same ratio of yours now unless I over looked something
Isn't the diff ring welded to the centre in the BMWs with Manual Transmission?
Some diffs are and some arent. Mine being a late 07 build automatic, should just be bolt. I hope anyway.
Pazi88 did a real world evaluation on that diff conversion set. It wore out in about 3 months if recall. That was on a (I think) M52B25 (or28) turbo build, E30. It put me off the idea at least.
Id seen a few people say the same thing
I have just found your channel and I am really enjoying watching. Also a FYI, hitting hardened hammers together is a very bad idea. I knew someone who had a shard from a hardened steel hammer cut their femoral artery. They ended up losing a lot of blood and had a helicopter ride to hospital.
That 3.64 will just boil the tires, 1/2/3 will be a smoke show. Use the factory ratio.
If you have good control over power delivery through boost or drive by wire, shorter is the way to go. Taller will be the better option if you have limited control and judging by your past boost by gear video this is the safer bet. It will make good content for your channel if you can be bothered testing both.
I think you're right. We'll see how much of a paint it is to get my diff out. If its easy, i will run the 3.64 and see what its like. Can always swap it again later.
Billy is a legend!!
Those inserts are a scam. Might be ok for a low power NA car, but there's videos where they are flogged out within a month. If you're lucky it might be 10-15% lock (M-perf diff's are 30% lock std)
A few people in the rally crowd have tried phantom grips. Even with a low powered car, they said the name was extremely accurate because they couldn't tell it was there...
I tryed one in mine and it's still in there and it still exactly the same as an open and has never spun 2 wheels
Like your video as always but the E39 M5 is distracting me 😍
I’m a follower due to the E39 M5 but I really like the 335 as well 👍
so if you use the current diff casing, how does th prop line up as the prop end of the diff is bolted with 3 bolts but the 335i auo diff the propshaft slips onto the output part on the diff? very interested.....im the guy who just welded my diff and coded the e diff out for cheeky duggits lol
This housing is the same as my current one. So it will actually bolt straight in. It “should” bolt straight in.
Gday Guys, great video as usual. Ive been building race cars (proper race cars not old hacks) for over 20 years. If you go to "wallaceracing.com"they have an amasing range of power/speed calculators. If you click and choose the calculator you want it will work out any information you need. It will work out ET, power to weight, what revs at what speed, what power your car has etc. Ive been using it as a guide for many years and it is extremely accurate. If you need a hand with anything please let me know and im more then happy to help out in anyway I can. I also live in SE QLD. Keep the great content coming. Cheers, Mick
You will effectively increase your traction times 2 since you will have to slip both wheels to lose traction now dring acceleration, I think it would be worth a shot. Your fifth gear concern is valid but it more a taste thing, also I dont remember how much the TCU allows for a speed difference between expected and actual (if it has it on the auto dunno at least the DCT in mine is known to be anoyed easily) but Im pretty sure thats what should make the call.
It doesn’t quite work that way. Whether you have an open diff or a locked diff it will still take the same torque before one tire begins slipping. Once one tire is slipping it’s now experiencing kinetic friction instead of static friction, which can be 25% less. But with a mechanical diff or electronic diff they both will redistribute torque to the wheel with grip. So in a steady state condition you shouldn’t see a difference. Where they differ is in the transient conditions.
Here you go: www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx You need transmission ratios too
Quaffe 3:15 .. You're gonna do it more than once if you don't go with the Quaffe
Well im not doing any circuit work, so there wont be any times when i am really heavy on the throttle through a sweeping corner. Im hoping ill get away with the Mfactory, for the occasional slide and straight line hard acceleration.
I suspect you know the answer to this already but 3.64/3.46 x current rpm at 200 equals new rpm at 200.
Wow this is the first time I haven’t been one of the first like ten people to say something.
haha can't win them all!
Zero To 60 lol guess you’re right. So now I have to wait longer for the budget coil overs??
Not too much longer, they'll be on the car, tested and video the results and uploaded within the week!
Having an LSD will increase grip Significantly! So running a 3.6. Diff really won't hinder you.
Dave if you go to get silly on the diff with the m5 give mike at difflab a call in Brisbane.
The m5 already has a about the best diff you can imagine in it.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Oh yea I keep forgetting Ali already popped the OS Giken number in it. They are brilliant. Any plans to I/C or meth inject for additional silliness?
Give it a go before you pull it all apart 👍🏽
Well i lost more than 8 hours to remove axle from e36 hub.
Did you get it out in the end?
@@ZeroTo60Tube yes
Those racing diffs wont work. I think they act like a slippy welded diff.