How strong is a Petzl 8 descender?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- THIS IS VIDEO 9 OF 10 - See textbook 👉 www.hownot2.co...
Here is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyon.
Episodes 1-5 show the systems,
Episode 6 shows how it can all be done with 1 device,
Episodes 7-8 are friction tests,
Episodes 9-10 are break tests of the hardware and the knot blocks.
All the episodes are in the textbook
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Intro
00:10 - Descender 8 as Anchor
00:59 - Canyon Course
01:54 - Dyneema sling girth hitch
03:11 - Descender 8 Eye
04:14 - Descender 8 End to End
04:38 - PALIKOA Break Test Try #1
07:02 - PALIKOA Break Test Try #2
08:57 - PALIKOA Break Test Try #3
TEXTBOOK: www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systems & Check out our canyon designs on www.hownot2swag.com
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So the palikoa is good for roughly three falls...while rappelling with your entire anvil collection.
I think you guys just made the best ad the palikoa could have asked for. I'm not even a climber and now I want one.
I really appreciate not giving up when stuff won't break. Not sure if the economics are there, but it's definitely my favorite part of the video.
I would love to see some higher frame high speed camera shots on some of these breaks. Im fascinated by seeing these materials under high stress before a failure.
Get a collab with slomo guys
Something like a Chronos for the channel would be so cool
Exactly what I was thinking
Buy a camera and do it yourself
Collab with Destin from Smarter Every Day! He'd love breaking things and the rigging!
That's a mighty fine tuning fork you have there!
Whatever those things he was testing last were, holy guacamole, them are tough to put a dent into apparently...
Not a climber myself, aside from a little gym style climbing and carnival trailer setup climbing when I was younger, on equipment that was owned by the carnival/building owners, and so only know the VERY basics, mainly just the belay instructions and whatnot. Most everything else I'd probably need a tiny refresher on... These videos are very informative though, so I watch them once in a while, when I want to see stuff break...
break test a Rock Exotica totem
“This whole test is pointless the hydraulics stop at 49kn “ 😂
🤣
Glacier black is the best!!!
I agree.
You spelled 'weird' in thumbnail wrong my brother.
Thank you for your work & love from Germany
You kept trying to break it, but I would have stopped at 40+ and labeled it as "unbreakable" - and bring THAT into the canyon!
I wonder how strong that carabiner attached to the contraptions in every videos
The Palikoa’s like twice as strong as I thought it would be! That’s awesome!
Damn the creaking noises at the end. Well done. I figured those would be tough stuff.
When your shit sounds like an old ship in a storm, you know you are on the right track.
Can't wait to see it on the store.
Thanks!
Thank you for this info. I think that is posible that found diferent with torsion force.
Thanks, keep posting
I don't do canyoning and I don't even like 8 descenders... but this video was still very entertaining! The Palikoa being so strong is very wird indeed, I wonder what kind of aluminum alloy is it, and what kind of heat treatment it went through!... Must be a precipitation hardening alloy with very low temperature (low like ~150°C, i mean) and many many hours to reach such strength!
It is 7075 T-651, which is the same aluminum as most good quality carabiners and climbing gn hardware. The difference is the co figuration and the design. It is design to distribute the forces.
how is the palikoa pivot so strong? it has a small eyelet like any other device. incredible
It's being pulled in perfect alignment at its strongest point. Carabiners only break as low as they do bc one side is compromised. They almost always break on the gate side bc of leverage and other smart words. If only one carabiner was attached to the hydraulic side it would have broken at a similar point as other devices.
Honestly if the PK was pulled in the same way as the Fig 8, it would have had similar consequences. But the beauty of the PK, is you don’t ever have to rig it that way. There are option to distribute the forces.
Cool, love to see new videos!
Rectangles shape and break at 48 kn which is very strong device design for climbers easy to handle the rope slide and hold other climber up to 200-lbs not over 300-lbs climber.
I hope climbers understand shape over the physics and anodize.
There is no MBS because they couldn't
Hahahaha
Now I know what I can make out of my 80x15 mm titanium flat bar
I would like to see a video on the micro rack, I don't really trust the 2 nuts on the end...
Would it ever be loaded like that? I have never used any 8 in that configuration!
No it wouldn't. Click bait video.
Yes. In a canyon it could. Thats why the Pivot is designed in the way it is. So we can avoid that load. That being said, the Fig8 is plenty strong enough.
Can you please break a CT Roll n Lock? It would be really interesting to see whether the 4kN rating is accurate or if it's higher!
not exactly what you are after but should give you an idea - th-cam.com/video/K3eOlN5pGmI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RichardMumford
So dont have too many 46kN whipers. Check.
Great testing, 💚💚👍👍
Can you please drop test Petzl Evolv Adjust - people tend to use it as a lanyard although it's not rated for such use cause it's pretty solid and carrying additional lanyard when you have Evolv does not make sense. I am curious what fall factor it can withstand? I bet at least FF1 is OK. If we have the data we can better understand how it can be used.
I think that's a great idea. There are several personal anchors that I'd want to test.
How can anyone look at 2:17 and tell me the girth hitch masterpoint is a good idea?
Would have been interesting to see how a rope would break loaded in the devices.
The shown scenarios do not cover the typical usecases. What is the conclusion of the tests? I dont think it is something to learn from.
The break test videos are becoming more like „destroy the device as fast as possible in any configuration“ videos.
Would be nice to see tests in more typical uses.
But i also like to see them explode on high speed.
Check out his most recent videos on that. The rope breaks first. Similar to a know.
Holaaaa Por favor 🙏 activen la operación de los subtitulo de Google 🙏 graciasssss
It's weird how people misspell "weird" as "wierd".
I think it’s that i before e except for after c thingy that gets them.
@@Geezuznotcomingforu hahah I like thinking that "weird" is weird because it doesn't follow that "rule".
i somehow feel way more sorry for the shiny annodized gear pices
shoulda cut the sling near the hitch. because wouldn’t the sling fail in the knot/hitch?
You are not supposed to whip on an 8 descender... ever. That doesn't really worry me. What would worry me very much is if it melted! LOL
Do a fresh one; One pull one break
I've used a descender similar to the Petzl 8 now about 35+ years but in rock climbing. They are very convenient and fast. I like what you are doing but does anyone really use the descender the way you are testing it? I think the most interesting thing would be to attach it at the small end to a carabiner and rope over the big end in the rappel configuration. The scary thing about this kind of descender is how the rope wears it. Groves are worn by rope at three different places. At what point should I retire the descender?
You can flip the descender to extend the life. But you should retire when it is about half way through the thickness or when you have doubts.
Weird
Word
47kN fall? 🤣 How many g's is that? 😂
you're actually not load this descender in the middle of the bar , so now it looks like improper use
Huh, I wonder why they make it so strong. Seems way overbuilt for the intended purposes.
We most likely saw the most resilient load configuration. I think it has to be also "strong enough" (but not that high) in other configurations (i.e. side load).
The strength is in the design to distribute the load and put the device in an optimal working load. If it was tested the same way as the Fig 8 it’s would have had similar results. But he beauty is you don’t ever have to rig it that way.
wierd
word
Choosing public education over a paywall, are you a red?
Thanks!