If you are on the fence about buying these Ball Joints Don't be! On my 05 Ram truck I went through 4 sets of factory Ball Joints (16 total). One set of factory balljoints lasted as long as an oil change (5K miles). I bought one of the first sets of Carli's that came out. I did have an issue with a lower balljoint that actually broke, As it turns out it was something with the metallurgy. The owner of Carli Suspension called and inquired about the problem. They shipped me a new ball joint and even paid for the labor to install! Bottom line, Excellent Company Top of the Line products!
They work AWESOME!!!! I installed these on my 03 dodge 3500 lifted dually. I blew out all other competitors every 2 years. I spent more money on joints that don’t last then to just buy these once and last time! Just bite the bullet and I promise you won’t be disappointed.
I have brand new ball joints on my 2006 dodge quad cab diesel. All parts other than these are Thuren . 3" springs , control arms ,sway bar links ,trac bar . Having a hell of a time with alinement. Under acceleration trucks goes left or right and kinda feels out of control. I am ar about 0 toe and plenty of caster . Going around corners feels fine . Only problems going straight it seems . Its actually scary , especially when towing and loaded . Any suggestions? Could this be sticky ball joints . New nitto 35 s too . Air pressure ? Tried it all. HELP ! lol.
man... I'd love to buy a set for my truck but my Dodge is a 1995. :( I understand why you don't offer for 94-02 model year, being that my truck is now almost 30 years old. I've had it since 190k miles, has 207,xxx now and I've had to replace the ball joints twice. Absolutely sucks. I can tell you guys are professionals and very passionate about what you do. Love to see that.
How would you compare your ball joints to ball joint deletes with respect to running a Western Snow Plow. It seems like ball joint delete kits offer up a more stout system. What are your thoughts?
I’ve got friends that have these in their 3rd Gen ram trucks, and they love them. I happen to have a 2nd Gen, which is my favorite truck. I’d really like to see these made for my 2nd Gen.
Agreed! 2nd gen trucks are extremely popular, easy to work on, and don't have smog crap on them like the newer trucks. We are spending big bucks to keep these gems on the road and could use the lifetime joints!
Personally I do all of the installation of parts on my vehicles (as I'm sure most people who are looking at Carli do as well) but what about those who don't? Hypothetically speaking, should these balljoints meet the standards for warranty replacement and the owner has to have them replaced at a shop will you cover the shop charges?
I’m blowing through ball joints on 2010 ram 1500 6” lift every 5000 miles and ruin 2k sets of tires 37”. Just spent 8k on all new suspension upgrades and is still happening- truck is back in the shop- are these guaranteed for a certain mileage?
Will you guy be designing ball joint for Chevy Silverado 1500 , 2500, 3500 in the near future we would like install these on are trucks and customer trucks? thanks
I brought mine last year and they have the 6 bolt retaining ring design and NO GREASE EVACUATION PORT. Does that mean I have pre 2014 stock and where is the grease supposed to evacuate? Do they have any kind of internal seals?
No, the updates for the CS-DBJP-03 was actually quite recent. They're not a sealed design, thus there's no real need for a grease evacuation port on your model. The good news, if they ever fail, they'll be replaced with the new version!
If your camber is far enough out to need an offset ball joint, you're likely looking at either a BLOWN out upper ball joint allowing enough lateral play to read excessive camber or a bent axle. Replacing with a non offset joint with no slop will correct the former while the latter gets a bit more expensive.
Camber is non adjustable on the RAM HD platform. These ball joints are a 0° so there's no "correction" as it's not needed. If you're being recommended offset ball joints, either the lateral wear on the upper is so drastic that it's reading camber or your axle is bent - neither of these situations are corrected by an offset ball joint. One's a false reading and the other's a band-aid fix that will lead to future issues.
I have an 06 Ram 3500 dually, I love doing my own work on my truck. Are these ball joints something I can do in my driveway ? Do you folks sell ball joint press,s. If not can you please recommend a good quality ball joint press to install them.
Here are the instructions - carlisuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Instructions-CS-DBJP-03-Ram-Ball-Joint-Package-2003.pdf They provide ALL the info you requested! They can absolutely be done in your driveway.
They're not warrantied against rust as surface rust on the outside can't be prevented and will not affect performance of the part. The inside will not rust if they're kept greased.
I've unfortunately gone thru a lot of the same headaches and mistakes of having Moog ball joints installed with the knurled tops. Are there any issues with clearances and installing the Carli's now?
Sometimes... If you've had multiple sets of Moog's installed, there's a chance your bores were oversized. This can usually be alleviated by using a center punch to dimple the bores effectively swelling the metal around the punched area to create enough bite for the factory spec ball joints to hold.
@@thecarlisuspension You can shrink a hole by using an acetylene torch, heat one small side area to light cherry and let it cool, the bore will shrink. What happens is the red metal yields a little as the part that is not heated is very stiff when the heat causes an expansion, when it then cools the bore is pulled tighter. I have done this also on engine connecting rods that were too loose for the piston pin. It should take a few thousands out of the bore every time you do that, up to a point of course. I see some of these knurled ball joints are .005 - .006 oversize. I wonder how many people have forced in oversized ball joints into perfectly sized bores in the axle without realizing the consequences. Other thing is can you use some version of Loctite to take up the excess clearance? I would think so.
Got a pair was too small for the knuckle I guess.. 6th set of moogs put on now still got my ball joints in the box. Kinda sucks moogs lasted me bout 500-1,000 miles. Tire rotation shouldn’t cost a guy 1,700 everytime ball joints with a tire rotation.
It sounds like the joints were properly sized but multiple sets of MOOG (knurled) over-sized your ball joint bore. CJC Offroad made a video about the installation process and discussed technique to knurl the bore to provide sufficient grip to hold a factory size ball joint. th-cam.com/video/3geIH9cCi-c/w-d-xo.html
I was reading a post on a forum and a guy was having a problem with his Carli lower ball joint squeaking really bad, he could not get grease into it and he mentioned that there was no escape port for the grease. Was this an earlier version without an escape port? Are your ball joints warrantied against squeaking. Thank you.
Squeaking is an interesting one as it could be from a number of things. Main thing that causes squeaking is not servicing the ball joints OR not servicing them properly. The instructions call for the old-style ball joints to be greased with the truck on jack-stands to allow the weight of the wheel/tire combo to create a tiny space in the ball joint cup/pin wear surface for the grease to travel. If they're greased with the weight of the truck, you're not getting enough in and it may or may not migrate to the wear surface depending on the grease you're using. The new ball joints have a grease evacuation in the lower and this is no longer a concern. Squeaking isn't a functional issue with the ball joints and is usually a sign that the service interval was neglected; grease them and the squeak goes away. If the squeak doesn't go away, yes, we'd be happy to look into a warranty. Point is, we take care of our customers. It's more important that the customer feels taken care of than us only replacing defective product. The only time we've ever denied a warranty was due to lack of purchase receipt (required due to the leniency of our warranty) or when a claim is submitted but our ball joints are functioning within tolerance.
Our cost to make these is more than the retail price of most of our competitors ball joints. On a product that costs $500 in labor to swap and wears the bore to which they're pressed in during installation, it pays to put in a quality product the first time.
I would absolutely love to try them and see if they are as good as the talk but holy hell are they ever expensive. They are 7 times the cost of Moog. I am sorry but I cannot justify that price difference.
The warranty guidelines tell you to keep your receipt and submit videos of the play; once confirmed, we send you a new set with a shipping label for the old ones. What, specifically, are you saying is the issue or complication here?
If someone wants to copy your product they’d just buy a set and test it. Not telling your customers what it’s made out of is a terrible marketing mistake. Personally I wasn’t comfortable spending $800 on a “secret sauce”. I really wanted to go Carli but ended up with dynatrac on their transparency and seeing various warranty claims being denied. I’m sure 1 potential customers isnt a worry but hopefully it’s food for thought.
The materials are what took us the longest to dial in as it's the most important portion of the whole process. We see our competition advertising materials and processes we've tested that have failed to meet our standards. For this reason, we don't want to say it outright. We're sorry to hear this does not inspire confidence with you. That said, it's something not often considered; take for example, the actual materials from which your chassis is made - most potential customers don't have the slightest clue but they trust the manufacturer has done their due diligence to properly source, spec and test these materials. We were trying to provide insight into what we've done over what period of time to land on the result we did rather than provide customers specs that mean something to a metallurgist and nothing to a laymen. Regardless, we appreciate the perspective as we can only see it from our angle - it will help make future videos better and perhaps more detailed if more customers align with this perspective. We hope your Dynatracs serve you well!
If you are on the fence about buying these Ball Joints Don't be! On my 05 Ram truck I went through 4 sets of factory Ball Joints (16 total). One set of factory balljoints lasted as long as an oil change (5K miles). I bought one of the first sets of Carli's that came out. I did have an issue with a lower balljoint that actually broke, As it turns out it was something with the metallurgy. The owner of Carli Suspension called and inquired about the problem. They shipped me a new ball joint and even paid for the labor to install! Bottom line, Excellent Company Top of the Line products!
They work AWESOME!!!! I installed these on my 03 dodge 3500 lifted dually. I blew out all other competitors every 2 years. I spent more money on joints that don’t last then to just buy these once and last time! Just bite the bullet and I promise you won’t be disappointed.
Thanks for the feedback, Chris!
You’ve sold me, I’m going to try them. Great explanation, your knowledge shows through. I’ve got a 2003 Ram 3500 Dually 5.9.
Spend the money dude. Trust me
I have brand new ball joints on my 2006 dodge quad cab diesel. All parts other than these are Thuren . 3" springs , control arms ,sway bar links ,trac bar . Having a hell of a time with alinement. Under acceleration trucks goes left or right and kinda feels out of control. I am ar about 0 toe and plenty of caster . Going around corners feels fine . Only problems going straight it seems . Its actually scary , especially when towing and loaded . Any suggestions? Could this be sticky ball joints . New nitto 35 s too . Air pressure ? Tried it all. HELP ! lol.
man... I'd love to buy a set for my truck but my Dodge is a 1995. :( I understand why you don't offer for 94-02 model year, being that my truck is now almost 30 years old. I've had it since 190k miles, has 207,xxx now and I've had to replace the ball joints twice. Absolutely sucks. I can tell you guys are professionals and very passionate about what you do. Love to see that.
What is the outer diameter measurement of the lower ball joints? Are they 1.815? 1.810?
HELL YEAH !!! THIS IS THE WAY !!
will these be available for 2019 F-250?
How would you compare your ball joints to ball joint deletes with respect to running a Western Snow Plow. It seems like ball joint delete kits offer up a more stout system. What are your thoughts?
Bump
I’ve got friends that have these in their 3rd Gen ram trucks, and they love them. I happen to have a 2nd Gen, which is my favorite truck. I’d really like to see these made for my 2nd Gen.
Hey Tristen, unfortunately, we have no plans to make these for the 2nd gen trucks.
Agreed! 2nd gen trucks are extremely popular, easy to work on, and don't have smog crap on them like the newer trucks. We are spending big bucks to keep these gems on the road and could use the lifetime joints!
@@demartinsm8479just delete a newer one
@@Sdukes001 If I lived in a free state, I would.
@@demartinsm8479there’s always a way
do you have options for 1500?
Personally I do all of the installation of parts on my vehicles (as I'm sure most people who are looking at Carli do as well) but what about those who don't? Hypothetically speaking, should these balljoints meet the standards for warranty replacement and the owner has to have them replaced at a shop will you cover the shop charges?
The warranty is limited to the product; we do not cover labor.
@@thecarlisuspension if you covered the product you should pay labor when it's your product that fails
I'm thinkin about getting some I can do work myself on cars but I'd rather pay good money than do it 2 or 3 more times
I’m blowing through ball joints on 2010 ram 1500 6” lift every 5000 miles and ruin 2k sets of tires 37”. Just spent 8k on all new suspension upgrades and is still happening- truck is back in the shop- are these guaranteed for a certain mileage?
Oh and to clarify- I’m not even off roading this truck- it’s mainly for deep snow and storms we have in Colorado.
do you all make them for a 2014 super duty f 350 srw thanks
We're working on a Super Duty version, yes sir!
Will you guy be designing ball joint for Chevy Silverado 1500 , 2500, 3500 in the near future we would like install these on are trucks and customer trucks? thanks
No current plans...
@@thecarlisuspension 😞
Is there a set that will work for a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4? I'd love to put these to the test on my off-road runs. Straight axle Dana 44
We don't make any ball joints for the 1500s, unfortunately.
I brought mine last year and they have the 6 bolt retaining ring design and NO GREASE EVACUATION PORT. Does that mean I have pre 2014 stock and where is the grease supposed to evacuate? Do they have any kind of internal seals?
No, the updates for the CS-DBJP-03 was actually quite recent. They're not a sealed design, thus there's no real need for a grease evacuation port on your model. The good news, if they ever fail, they'll be replaced with the new version!
What about offset ball joints to correct alignment issues so tires don't wear out to one side
If your camber is far enough out to need an offset ball joint, you're likely looking at either a BLOWN out upper ball joint allowing enough lateral play to read excessive camber or a bent axle. Replacing with a non offset joint with no slop will correct the former while the latter gets a bit more expensive.
Will these ball joints help correct offset camber and to what degree?
Camber is non adjustable on the RAM HD platform. These ball joints are a 0° so there's no "correction" as it's not needed. If you're being recommended offset ball joints, either the lateral wear on the upper is so drastic that it's reading camber or your axle is bent - neither of these situations are corrected by an offset ball joint. One's a false reading and the other's a band-aid fix that will lead to future issues.
Are the ball joints for any size tire and wheel package?
Yes, you can run as large a tire as you would like without voiding the warranty or without worrying the ball joints will fail.
I have an 06 Ram 3500 dually, I love doing my own work on my truck. Are these ball joints something I can do in my driveway ? Do you folks sell ball joint press,s. If not can you please recommend a good quality ball joint press to install them.
Here are the instructions - carlisuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Instructions-CS-DBJP-03-Ram-Ball-Joint-Package-2003.pdf
They provide ALL the info you requested! They can absolutely be done in your driveway.
Will these last a long time while running 20x12-44 wheels with 33’s?
Wouldn't be a problem, at all. These are built to withstand excessive forces of high offset wheels and large tires!
Has the design held up 3 years later?
will it be warranted against rust? asking for those DMVs that put salt on the roads like crazy
They're not warrantied against rust as surface rust on the outside can't be prevented and will not affect performance of the part. The inside will not rust if they're kept greased.
I still don’t know what brand these are?!
Do y’all make them for 4th gen 1500s ?
We do not, sorry!
do you make them for Astro vans?
Ram 2500/3500 only at this time.
Are these good for an 01 4x4 ram sport on a Dana 44... ?
Unfortunately not, 2003-current.
I've unfortunately gone thru a lot of the same headaches and mistakes of having Moog ball joints installed with the knurled tops. Are there any issues with clearances and installing the Carli's now?
Sometimes... If you've had multiple sets of Moog's installed, there's a chance your bores were oversized. This can usually be alleviated by using a center punch to dimple the bores effectively swelling the metal around the punched area to create enough bite for the factory spec ball joints to hold.
@@thecarlisuspension You can shrink a hole by using an acetylene torch, heat one small side area to light cherry and let it cool, the bore will shrink. What happens is the red metal yields a little as the part that is not heated is very stiff when the heat causes an expansion, when it then cools the bore is pulled tighter. I have done this also on engine connecting rods that were too loose for the piston pin. It should take a few thousands out of the bore every time you do that, up to a point of course. I see some of these knurled ball joints are .005 - .006 oversize. I wonder how many people have forced in oversized ball joints into perfectly sized bores in the axle without realizing the consequences. Other thing is can you use some version of Loctite to take up the excess clearance? I would think so.
Got a pair was too small for the knuckle I guess.. 6th set of moogs put on now still got my ball joints in the box. Kinda sucks moogs lasted me bout 500-1,000 miles. Tire rotation shouldn’t cost a guy 1,700 everytime ball joints with a tire rotation.
It sounds like the joints were properly sized but multiple sets of MOOG (knurled) over-sized your ball joint bore. CJC Offroad made a video about the installation process and discussed technique to knurl the bore to provide sufficient grip to hold a factory size ball joint. th-cam.com/video/3geIH9cCi-c/w-d-xo.html
I was reading a post on a forum and a guy was having a problem with his Carli lower ball joint squeaking really bad, he could not get grease into it and he mentioned that there was no escape port for the grease. Was this an earlier version without an escape port? Are your ball joints warrantied against squeaking. Thank you.
Squeaking is an interesting one as it could be from a number of things. Main thing that causes squeaking is not servicing the ball joints OR not servicing them properly. The instructions call for the old-style ball joints to be greased with the truck on jack-stands to allow the weight of the wheel/tire combo to create a tiny space in the ball joint cup/pin wear surface for the grease to travel. If they're greased with the weight of the truck, you're not getting enough in and it may or may not migrate to the wear surface depending on the grease you're using. The new ball joints have a grease evacuation in the lower and this is no longer a concern. Squeaking isn't a functional issue with the ball joints and is usually a sign that the service interval was neglected; grease them and the squeak goes away. If the squeak doesn't go away, yes, we'd be happy to look into a warranty. Point is, we take care of our customers. It's more important that the customer feels taken care of than us only replacing defective product. The only time we've ever denied a warranty was due to lack of purchase receipt (required due to the leniency of our warranty) or when a claim is submitted but our ball joints are functioning within tolerance.
@@thecarlisuspension what grease do you recommend?
@@tapantera Redline CV2
can this work on a 2001 dodge ram 1500
Sorry, no. That's a Independent Front Suspension - these are for the straight-axle equipped HD Rams.
@@thecarlisuspension 2nd gen 1500 are solid axle. I wonder if they will fit
Manganese steel. You can tell when you cut it with a torch. But hard to machine
Take my money !!!
That price though holy hell.
Our cost to make these is more than the retail price of most of our competitors ball joints. On a product that costs $500 in labor to swap and wears the bore to which they're pressed in during installation, it pays to put in a quality product the first time.
Carli is the best 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Haven’t you put the sheet ring in the wrong direction ??
I'm not sure what you're referring to?
Wish i can put these on my durango
08 Ram 1500 4x4?
Sorry, nothing for 1500 ball joints.
2nd gen , Dana 60 ?????
Working on them!
I would absolutely love to try them and see if they are as good as the talk but holy hell are they ever expensive. They are 7 times the cost of Moog. I am sorry but I cannot justify that price difference.
..until you need to replacement. Read the Carlie warranty guidelines
The warranty guidelines tell you to keep your receipt and submit videos of the play; once confirmed, we send you a new set with a shipping label for the old ones. What, specifically, are you saying is the issue or complication here?
Wish they made these for 1500
What is the website called or phone number
carlisuspension.com/ & 888-992-2754 ext:1
If someone wants to copy your product they’d just buy a set and test it. Not telling your customers what it’s made out of is a terrible marketing mistake. Personally I wasn’t comfortable spending $800 on a “secret sauce”. I really wanted to go Carli but ended up with dynatrac on their transparency and seeing various warranty claims being denied. I’m sure 1 potential customers isnt a worry but hopefully it’s food for thought.
The materials are what took us the longest to dial in as it's the most important portion of the whole process. We see our competition advertising materials and processes we've tested that have failed to meet our standards. For this reason, we don't want to say it outright. We're sorry to hear this does not inspire confidence with you. That said, it's something not often considered; take for example, the actual materials from which your chassis is made - most potential customers don't have the slightest clue but they trust the manufacturer has done their due diligence to properly source, spec and test these materials. We were trying to provide insight into what we've done over what period of time to land on the result we did rather than provide customers specs that mean something to a metallurgist and nothing to a laymen. Regardless, we appreciate the perspective as we can only see it from our angle - it will help make future videos better and perhaps more detailed if more customers align with this perspective. We hope your Dynatracs serve you well!
Overpriced parts
Not for $800