Making a Cheongsam ft. My Roommate | Authentic construction techniques, history and more

[@heroandflor]

I've been researching 1930s and 1920s cheongsams for a few weeks now, and I while I found some very good info online in Chinese, I found nothing in English, so I loved the video, it helped fill out the missing information because of the language barrier xD thank you for sharing your process!

[@rosellachen8001]

Hi! Thank you! Glad you found it useful!

[@missnikin]

wow this is exactly what I was looking for! I've been getting jealous of the wealth of resources for western historical/vintage sewing methods so this filled the gap perfectly. I'm a Chinese-American who can't speak Chinese so this is such a helpful video.
YES GET ANGRY AT THE ZIPPERS!! why would you spend the time to put in a front closure if you are going to add an extraneous zipper in the back?
Thank you so much for sharing!

[@rosellachen8001]

Hi! Thank you! The lack of systematic research in Chinese historical sewing is truly a big problem. Even as a Chinese who speaks Chinese I also struggle in researching. Glad it was helpful!

[@beansavacado8134]

Dude THANK you for this historically accurate construction of a cheongsam. it came out beautifully

[@leiamake]

This is amazing! Like many others, I've been looking for historical sewing information on Chinese clothing and have had a hard time finding it. I hope you make more of these videos or share more resources!

[@michellestrickland7613]

They are both beautiful and look very comfortable. Thank you for filming your process and for the wonderful explanation of the garment.

[@user-wm1oo4os7e]

Fantastic!!! I'm planning to crochet a cheongsam and I wanted to make one with working buttons, but for the life of me I could not find any images or explanations of how authentic ones were constructed or how they opened. Thanks for this and the little history lesson as well! Really interesting! Can I ask where you learned this info?

[@rosellachen8001]

I learned mostly from looking at the museum pieces in China and reading Chinese books on them. There are some silk museums here in China, the best one in Hangzhou. They display a lot of cheongsams from 1920s to 19402.

[@rdfjfgjyfdhfghy67456]

Seriously thankful for your research as I set out to make my own cheongsam. Your videos really are a work of art!

[@kattkatt744]

The steaming technique was interesting to hear about. I am a bit confused about the part where you say that a qipao/cheongsam should never have inset arms and7or a zipper in the back. For making a on in vintage style followinghow they where made from the 1920s to the late1940s I can understand this sentiment, but does it also mean that you considere dresses made in the 1950 and forward with inset arms, darts and later with back zippers displayed by meusums or from for modern Chinese fashion brands not qipao/cheongsam?

[@rosellachen8001]

Hello Katt. Thank you for asking this question as I also realized I did not explain this very well in the video. I am already thinking about making a series of videos on cheongsam to further focus on the techniques, terms etc.
The concept of cheongsam/qipao is very NOT standardized in China, every tailor/seamstress has their own take on the term. The definition varies from person to person.
Some people accept 1950s style with zippers, darts and set-in sleeves as "cheongsams" while some would draw the line at a split shoulder seam.
Here is my take with the term "cheongsam":
- no set-in sleeves
- no waist darts but underarm bust darts are acceptable
- NO NO NO centerback zipper especially the ones that penetrate the collar, those should be illegal, but zipper on the true side opening is acceptable
- split shoulder seams are acceptable even with a slight angle
So yes, I personally think 1950s style cheongsam dresses are not technically "cheongsam/qipao 旗袍" but they are "modified cheongsam/qipaoqun 改良旗袍/旗袍裙".
Of course, just because I don't think they are authentic cheongsams doesn't mean I think they are of no value, they are just a different topic for me. I actually think they are more flattering than authentic cheongsams because of the structures they have. So just hold on to your own concept of the garment, and make whatever that looks good on you!

[@mychannel27]

Thank you! I will make for myself. ❤

[@dustedpinstripes]

I really really appreciate this, super helpful thank you so much!!

[@raakel8525]

Loved your video, but I couldn't quite understand how to make the pattern. Did you use any pattern that you could share with us or did you make it completely by yourself? If so, could you show how it's done?

[@rosellachen8001]

Thanks for liking! I didn't include the pattern-making process in this video as it was a bit too much math to explain, sorry for the confusion. I will make a vid on pattern making if I make a cheongsam in the future!

[@huesoo9827]

Fascinating . Really enjoyed all the historical explanations as well as the process on making it. Although it appears your friend’s cs was slightly different in construction at the side opening than yours.

[@rosellachen8001]

Glad you enjoyed it! My friend had all the perimeters different from mine - darts, edging details, closing method etc. Plus, we have very different body shapes! Because traditional cheongsam is supposed to take shape of your body, we end up with very different styles or looks despite having the same making process!

[@berrymin27]

Love this video! I was wondering if you have good resources for cheongsum making in English?

[@rosellachen8001]

Thank you! Unfortunately most research materials I gathered are mainly in Chinese as most tailors who make cheongsams in China are the older generation and they don't speak English.

[@leiamake]

@@rosellachen8001 Can you share any of those Chinese research materials? I'm learning Chinese and hoping to collect resources to eventually read.

[@rosellachen8001]

www.360doc.cn/mip/758424863.html Most of them are websites and this is one of them. It shows the construction process of a miniature cheongsam. I based my own cheongsam making on this method.

[@itsliuxiang]

Can you put on links to where you found this information for the making of a traditional cheongsam??

[@rosellachen8001]

Sorry, most of my info are gathered from tailoring courses I take from cheongsam makers.

[@rosellachen8001]

If you can read Chinese, 《旗袍设计制版与工艺》by 张军雄 is a book that might be useful. I have not read it myself but I have heard some good words about it. However seems like it still focuses more towards "modernized" cheongsams with darts and set-in sleeves rather than the original ones from 20s and 30s. Sorry I couldn't be more useful, Chinese historical clothing territory really doesn't have that much written resources to work with. Good luck!

[@danielamartinez6514]

I am super excited to try this out!! But a quick question, what kind of fabric would you recommend??

[@rosellachen8001]

Something with great drape with some heavy-ness to it. Like rayon, viscose, something sand-washed, matte satin would all be great choices. Try to avoid stiff things like quilting cotton or heavy duchess silk. You would want the cheongsam to drape along your body, not stiff and sticking out. Good luck!

[@davriecaro3036]

Hello, I have a question,
With the qipao becoming super form-fitting (Like it's almost like a second skin ) in the 1950s and 1960s, would the tailors already incorporate darts in the qipao. Along with the method you have stated in the video
Or they would just use the method mentioned?

[@rosellachen8001]

Hello! From what I learned looking at old pictures, I would say the tailors definitely have incorporated the darts. If you go on to pinterest and search for some old pictures from 50s/60s, you would see a lot of cheongsams having two lines either perpendicular from bust apex to hip line or diagonal from bust apex to side waist line, especially on cheongsam with prints as they usually break up the print and become super obvious. Those are the darts applied on the cheongsam in order to make it more fitted and create the "pointy boob" effect that was all the rage especially in 50s.
But at this point the structure of the cheongsam actually leans more towards the structure of a typical modern fitted dress, because of all the darts, therefore some tailors actually stop referring to it as "cheongsam", but "modified cheongsam 改良旗袍" or "cheongsam-style dress 旗袍裙", so it really depends on your own definition of the term.
Hope this helps!

[@davriecaro3036]

@@rosellachen8001
Thank you, and with all your knowledge on the qipao.
I would be so it would interesting to see a video of you reacting and reviewing the qipao in period movies like "Lust,Caution" "Flowers of War" and "In the mood for love".
As well as you reviewing or looking at qipao from Chinese movie in the 1930s to 1950s or maybe your own family pictures of qipao

[@qibeishen1297]

@@rosellachen8001 hi rosella! thank u for the amazing video! regarding the “pointy boobs” point, i guess u r referring to the idea of 尖胸旗袍 which was once prevalent in hongkong . to some extent, hk has developed its very cheongsam culture, which is often called 港工旗袍. the style is often characterised by the presence of darts, (sometimes) omission of frug buttons and separate sleeves. sorry for the chinese terms used if u r not a mandarin speaker!!

[@rosellachen8001]

@@qibeishen1297 Hi! Thank you for the explanation! I do speak mandarin. What you said was absolutely right. Although I always have a slight doubt towards the word "港" cuz I think the "pointy boob" look is not localized to HK, it was a feature during the 50s all over the world (like the bullet bras). So I usually just refer to them as 50s cheongsams.

[@willabandler9280]

I don’t know if you’ll even see comments on a video that’s a couple of years old, but this is amazing! It’s the only thing I’ve found that both shows the actual Chinese tailoring methods and also actually explains it so I can understand. Thank you! I’m a non-Chinese person making a cheongsam for my half-Chinese daughter and I want to actually make it right, since culture isn’t a costume.
I replied to your reply to another comment below about the bust dart situation and how to end up with the back and front having matching side seam length, but I realize I have some other questions too. Like, is it open all the way down and just held with buttons (and how many buttons-one thing I read suggested it should use 5 buttons total but that doesn’t seem like enough for the whole collar/chest/side!), or is the skirt sewn shut from the hips down? Should it always open down the right, or do some open down the left? Would you ever use a zipper along the side closure instead of buttons to make it more secure? Or maybe use a zipper hidden with buttons over it? If you do see this, any info on any of these things would be so appreciated.

[@willabandler9280]

…well, your more recent video answered the zipper q anyway!

[@rosellachen8001]

Thank you for your kind words, I'm so happy my pattern was useful to you!
Opening and buttons: All the methods you have mentiones are acceptable! It really depends on the wearer, I like completely opened cheongsams, because I enjoy the buttoning when I'm putting them on. But some of my friends like the skirt sewn together, because they are very paranoid about the delicate buttons holding the skirt together, especially on cheongsams with tighter cuts. They are afraid that they're gonna pop open LOL. If you decide to sew the skirt shut, I recommend placing some tacking at the end of the opening, since that part could suffer from a lot of pulling, adding reinforcement protects the fabric.
The numbers of buttons aren't fixed, but please consider the placement when you're making them. They shouldn't be too close or too far away from each other. I usually put them 10-13cm apart. Also, don't put them all the way down! You need to have two side vents / openings otherwise the wearer can't move. Hope this helps!

[@claudinetan4612]

Hi, do you take orders (semi-jokingly or seriously)?

[@rosellachen8001]

Hello! Sorry, I don't take commissions at the moment.

[@aniketmakhija474]

can you show us how to draft the pattern?

[@rosellachen8001]

I will try to film the pattern drafting if I make another cheongsam in the future :)

[@fastsmg]

@@rosellachen8001 please do!

[@nancyma1332]

@@rosellachen8001 yes please do help with drafting a pattern! As a chinese i would love to eventually make one for me and my mum :)

[@asor2012]

I like both types

[@rosellachen8001]

Thank you!

[@katyb2793]

This was absolutely FASCINATING! I'm Caucasian and really enjoy learning about fashion history and sewing techniques. But while there's so much on western fashion, I've always been curious about asian fashion. Please do many more videos if you can!
I have a couple of questions.
Can you do the ironing technique on silk? Everyone says don't use steam on silk, but my understanding is a lot of cheongsams pre the 50's would have been silk (at least bridal and the upper class?) so did they have particular methods to protect the silk?
Also if you wash the garment, will it maintain the shape you pressed it into?
And, do you know of any resources in english? Patterns etc?
Thank you and looking forward to more videos if you are able!
Ps. Thank you for using a striped fabric, the result of ironing was super easy to see!

[@rosellachen8001]

Hello Katy, thanks for your kind comment.
Regarding the silk question, I don't know enough information about other tailors to tell you what is a "standard practice", but personally I do cut out the steam, lower the temperature but lengthen the time to do the ironing trick on silk fabrics.
I also can't find enough information on the washing question to give you a confident answer, but from my own experience, the shape of them silk does change a bit (usually not completely gone tho) after a washing, so you do need to do some ironing before wearing it again.
For flat-cut cheongsam, I was never able to find resources in English. Written resources are rare even in Chinese. I collect my information from seeing scraps here and there.😂😂😂
Hope this helps!

[@katyb2793]

@@rosellachen8001 it does, thank you! Such a fascinating subject! ☺

[@KittyLLew]

The explanations on your video is much appreciated! I’m an ABC and strained for tutorials in English. My M-GM was a cheongsam seamstress in Hong Kong c. 1930-50s and likely used the steaming technique. Unfortunately, I never had the opportunity to learn from her as our family immigrated to the States and she passed away when I was a young girl. I do have some yardage of Guangdong gambiered gauze (mud silk) which my mom said Popo used frequently. Mom says it’s very durable and can be handwashed (actually rinsed with no soap or harsh detergent).

[@sensationaleve5994]

Goo job

[@nasimajuthe5690]

Plz upload more qipao cutting ✂️

[@joannarutter]

Sorry for bothering you, I was just wondering about the bust dart calculation. If it's not too much trouble, if you could please write out your calculations with your measurements?
Like you said (bust fulness + under bust) ÷ 4? Is that correct? Any kind of guidance would be appreciated.

[@rosellachen8001]

Hi Joanna. The bust dart calculation is (Bust-underbust)÷2 per dart, I said ÷4 because I like to cut without a pattern while striking directly on fabric, so I fold my cheongsam front upwards just 1/4(Bust-underbust), kind of like a pleat, so the "pleat" being 1/4(Bust-underbust) is double-layered, so it actually holds the volume of 1/2(Bust-underbust). Hope this helps!

[@joannarutter]

@@rosellachen8001 thank you very much!

[@willabandler9280]

Idk if you will even see this since it’s from so long ago, but: ok, so you fold up both layers? But then the back is going to be longer than the front, since presumably you don’t put bust darts on the back! It would make sense to me if you folded the front but not the back while doing the cutting so that the side seams would still match once the dart was sewed, but you’re saying that’s *not* what you do?

[@HAYAOLEONE]

Interesting and funny video.
👍
(I'm a man and I could not sew more than a button to save my life 😁)

[@jeseniarobles1306]

Que bueno que hablaras español

[@wisteria6656]

is it offensive if I wear it ? Im Japanese

[@rosellachen8001]

Personally I don't think it is offensive, I honestly don't think anybody wearing a cheongsam just trying to look pretty is offensive. I think people tend to think things are offensive when things look a bit too costume-y. So I'm guessing stay clear of textures like polyester satin which may give the garment a Halloween costume feel? I think you'll be fine.

[@wisteria6656]

@@rosellachen8001 thank you! I will be sewing mine