German Kfz.13 Scout Car - 3D printing, painting, and weathering (1/35 scale model)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2023
- Building the Kfz.13 German scout car. The 3D model in this video was made by Sparty72. Check out his models on Cults3D: cults3d.com/en/users/sparty72...
The Kfz.13 (also known as the Maschinengewehr-Kraftwagen) was designed for the Reichswehr in the interwar period and used during the early stages of World War 2, including the invasion of Poland and the Battle of France. As a reconnaissance vehicle it was lightly armed and was withdrawn from frontline service by 1941 but continued to be used for training purposes. I printed this kit on my Creality Halot One Plus resin 3D printer and painted it with Tamiya acrylic paints. It was weathered with Abteilung oil paints and AK pigments.
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Cool! I built the Bronco many moons ago, like this little bugger. You did a nice job.
Thanks. I'm keeping a close eye on his Cult3D page for any new models.
Good work 👍.
Thanks Steve
Looks good, and a cool model, I also do 3d printing and just a tip, try removing your supports before you cure the parts and also run the parts under hot tap water, it makes the parts a little more flexible and easier to remove the supports
Thanks for the tip - I tried that recently (remove before curing, not the hot water bit) and it worked really well. I'll have to try the water next time.
That's a very nice printed kit, it looks very much like a plastic moulded kit. This 3D printing is going to open out a whole area for less mainstream well known aircraft and vehicles. This is a nice little armoured car.
Yes, I was very impressed indeed. I'll be keeping an eye on his Cults3D page for more models!
3D printing has come a long way over the past few years and this kit is really great....you would have to take a really close look to see that it wasn't an injected moulded plastic kit.....you've done a stellar job, MN. Excellent camo scheme and light weathering finished the job beautifully.
Thanks! I'm looking forward to more kits from the same designer.
Love the video m8, you've done the job proud :), Thanks again :) !
Thanks - glad you liked the end result!
Cool channel! Thanks for sharing. I subscribed and look forward to your future updates
Thanks - much appreciated!
That build turned out a fantastic effort on your part, it has not given me some encouragement to finish my WWII German truck which is in the grey scheme, so many thanks for sharing this build, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia 👍👍👍👍
Cheer Les - good luck with the truck!
That's a great little build of a vehicle which is a new one on me. I am a big fan of overlooked wheeled military vehicles.
Same! I get a bit bored with the endless Panzer IV slightly-different-version-made-by-one-factory-for-one-week releases
That looked like fun!
It was!
That looks really awesome and an interesting subject piece too
Thanks. Yes, I really like these less well known subjects.
A cool wee kit
Thanks
Great job mate.
Thanks
Excellent finish. Bronco also do the Kfz.14, both are excellent kits.
Thanks. Yes, I think the same modeller does a German radio set that could perhaps be used in this to convert it to a Kfz 14 too.
Turned out really nice 👍
Can see it driving down dusty German farm roads on manoeuvres in the mid 30’s
Thanks :)
The transformation from bare parts to finished model was particularly spectacular this time around. You praised the level of detail in the body for instance but for some reason the parts looked kind of soft-edged (maybe my ancient tablet has something to do with that). A coat of primer and a little paint revealed a pretty faithful model. Maybe the builder’s skill had some influence too. 😁
I appreciate these less well known vehicles getting some more attention. I have a soft spot for ugly ducklings.
Thanks Mark. I think any softness is due to my 3D printer and settings - ultra crisp edges are quite hard to achieve.
Very nicely done job on that model. Lots of details in the printer program. Looking at the reference pictures I don't think I would have liked being the driver when the gunner fired that machinegun. The muzzle looked to be right next to the driver's head.
Thanks. Yes, there's a bar to stop the muzzle going down too low but still definitely not my idea of fun either!
Hi really interesting looking vehicle, turned out fantastic 😂 cheers Liam
Thanks Liam
Looks fantastic, the cutting boards from AK, or Infini may have been an easy option for the crosses, I find that invaluable for getting perfect cuts.
Amazing that is a printed kit. If you don't mind me ask which printer do you have and which resin did you use? Also the layer exposure time if you have it, it may be a good start if I decide to buy and print this.
I have a Creality Halot One Plus and I use water-washable resin. I'm not sure about the layer time - to be honest, I just use the default settings :)
Great work, I enjoy your channel and find it very useful I'm interested to know what kind of 3d resin printer you use?
Thank you Alan. Recently I've switched to AnyCubic water washable resin. Really helps the post processing steps (and cheaper because you don't need to buy alcohol)
@@ModelNerd sorry I worded that badly, I meant which printer, not the resin
That’s a very cool looking little Adler car. Nice result ✨🎖✨
Thanks mate
🔥🔥🔥❤️👍👍
Thanks
Interesting contribution and a beautifully built model.
It just kind of begs the question: Why build such a resin model (with all its limitations) when you can get Bronco's superbly detailed injection molded model for just a few bucks more?
It's a fair question. I'm not familiar with the Bronco kit but my looking at the instructions from Scalemates it seems to have a little more detail (although maybe not that much more). It will benefit from the ability to have thinner parts than a resin print though.
A quick scan showed the Bronco kit for around 25 GBP, so almost twice what the resin kit cost. I suppose another advantage of the resin kit (although one that might only be useful to a few people) is the ability to print as many as you want once you have bought the kit. Although I've bought several 3D kits and haven't done that with any of them yet.
I do think this kit shows just what is possible with 3D printing though: the printers are getting better (and cheaper) and the design skills are out there. As I said in the video, I wouldn't buy a 3D printed Tiger, Sherman, or Panther kit - but something like this (and the IF8 trailer I built before) are good subjects. A niche production method for niche subjects! :)
Hi Chap. Had any issues trying to print out larger pieces such as a Panther Hull. I'm getting increasing deep lines across the prints failing the result completely which after a 22hour print is a right PITA? wondering about printing it standing on end, bow to the build plate.
I have had some issues, yes. There are so many variables but I've narrowed it down to a few:
Levelling - on my new printer it seems harder to fully tighten the build plate, so it does seem to move slightly over time. I think this is made worse by the sucking action of resin sticking the bottom of the resin and being pulled up by the build plate.
I also think that larger (taller) models exacerbate any issues with levelling. I.e. if a model is 1 inch tall and the build plate it out by 1 degree, that will have much less effect than if the model is 12 inches high, because it is further from the build plate.
Size - as larger models weigh more, it tends to pull it off the build plate more readily
Temperature - for me, this is the big one. Being in the UK and printing in the internal but unheated garage, I'm looking at maybe May to September for 3D printing. I've a lovely insulated garage door, but this needs to be open at least a few inches to run out the fume extraction, and I think the draft this creates is enough to cause a problem in cold weather.
I'm looking at investing in a 'tent' to go over the printer but I don't want to spend what they cost!
@@ModelNerd hi chap. Mine is in the garage, (West Yorks), but is in an enclosure covered in bubble wrap with one of those aluminium foil bubble wrap sheets on the top. I run a multi block into the enclosure and have a 500W ceramic heater on it set to around 27. This keeps the enclosure around 30-32 with around 25% humidity. It's a Halot Mage and so has the carbon filter and extractor on it which I put into an old spray booth expandy pipe and out of the garage window. Agreed re the variables, (AAARRRGGGHH!!!), and the lines do look like it could be wobble, getting worse as the Panther upper hull in my case, gets to around 50%. Keep up the good work chap. I nee to look at how tight everything is, but also I think I may be running foul of movement in the old garden table I have it on plus the bubble wrap on the base.
@@mikelucraft I wondered that about my table too. I'd set the print speed lower to reduce wobble, but some prints are already 9 hours!
@@ModelNerd 22hours for a panther Ausf.G upper hull to print and it was written off with the lines on it, gradually getting worse. Doing a Turret now, see how that does after a few adjustments :) Keep safe and thank you.
hey thank you! i am noob in this. question: what is the difference btween this model (that has dozens of parts to print) and the other ones (that just has a few part or even just 1) is more parts the better?
Hi. More parts isn't necessarily better or worse. Often parts are separate because it allows more detail to be included / added. In the case of 3D prints it might be easier to print some items separately because of the limitations of the technology (e.g. overhands need supports which can be hard to move or can damage fine detail, so it might be better to have parts separate).
🤝👍
Thanks
Does anyone sell this kit ready for making it if you don’t have a printer
Unfortunately I don't think so
Somehow the resin model looks more plastic than a plastic model.
Maybe it's the wheels? They just seem very uniform in colour.
Possibly the thickness of the resin compared to plastic?
Uncle model nerd I seen this on cults. But only after I purchased broncos kit of this
How is the Bronco kit?
One more thing, so I've dl several stl files, that once paid for, already have supports for printing, which is awesome, but when I go to print it, my printer wants to add supports, to supports. Long question, sorry, anyways how do I use the existing supports ? I've asked several prominent modeling folks about this but none have answered me, can you help please.
I'm not an expert but I believe it os the slicing software, not the printer, that adds supports. Which slicer do you use?
@@ModelNerd I'm just using anycubics, as I have their photon mono 4k
@@rickmoreno6858 Ah yeah, is that Halot Box or similar. It has the 4 icons across the top centre to represent the layout-support-slice-export workflow? When I use that it doesn't add any supports for me automatically (although there is a delete all button just in case). From Layout, can you just click the Support stage and then immediately the Slice stage?
I would also recommend Chitubox too - it's my main slicer and very easy to use.
@@ModelNerd ok well thank you I will give that a go on the chitusite. Thank you very much! Your kit turned out wonderful!
Thanks Rick. If it still doesn't work give me another message or send me an email (address on the 'About' tab) and I'll do my best to help you.
Do you have anything on cults?
Not at the moment. I might put some of those very basic models I built for the Ardennes diorama up there at some point (for free).
Hi MN, the spare wheel canvas is amazing looking! The vehicle is a little monochrome for my taste but I like the dusting up. Great job all around.
Thanks. The paintwork certainly highlights why knowledge of the grey and brown scheme eluded people for some time - they blend in very well under a matt coat and a dust coat.