r.e pole timber, having done lots of it, i find you can usually adapt a different technique for the under 6" stuff, usually i would just do one big swing at 45 on the first side and then do the same on the other side to meet it. Try it out on some smaller stuff and see how big you can go with it on the wood you're chopping. In green wood it works well. You can either make the cuts so that the severed wood forms a point or you can line the cut's up so that the two cuts form one diagonal line. Hope this makes sense! also helps to have a lighter thin profiled axe that sinks deep to pull this technique off but it can still be done with big 4-5lbers. another tip would be to try this same method but whilst using a backstop as if you were splitting axe cut rounds.
Wow, thanks for going into detail on this stuff! I could definitely tell I wasn’t being efficient with that smaller wood. This helps a lot👍. Makes a lot of sense too. Like I told Kurt, I think I’m gonna start bringing my 17.5 degree CT boys axe for that type of work. The basque doesn’t seem to do so well on that dry oak. Thanks again!
Neat perspectives brother. You gotta use the tools that you feel most comfortable with -- for safety, efficiency & enjoyment. I'm 6ft & prefer a longer handle -- especially for splitting. Longer handles gives you more velocity for swings -- given you have the accuracy & space to swing. It's a little crazy, but if you have the money & passion, owning multiple axe types or length handles is best. That being said -- You're right, the slightly shorter handle works best for all purposes & is a little less to carry around if going hiking, camping, or trekking into the woods. I stick by my longer handle for splitting & many tasks though. Everyone will have a different opinion based on their comfort. Keep up the good work man!! Keep on swinging!!
Nice job making the longer handle. I have the 1.5kg on the stock handle. The length suites me but I always wondered what a longer handle would be like.
Definitely fun on the 1.5! The 1.75 is a little too front heavy and doesn’t handle as well as I anticipated on that long handle. Good thing is it’s super easy to swap back and forth! But yeah, you aren’t missing too much. Without a poll for balance, the basques are best used on shorter handles.
Cool discussion! Never used a Basque, but definitely an advantage being able to swap out heads and handles. Like Joey L said, I try to match the axe to the timber if possible. For small wood I've found the 2.5 Montreal does well. Was cutting some 5 inch soft-ish green timber a few weeks back with a 4.5 Hytest and had to consciously moderate swing speed to avoid blowing through the log and dragging the toe. If I don't know what I'll be cutting for the day, I'll usually err on the side of the heavier axe. Edit: nice production, by the way👍
Thanks Kurt! I can see how a large axe might not always be good. I too would prefer to take a nice heavy workhorse if I might run into something gnarly. How do you like the Montreal? Is it the only boys axe you have? I have a council tool, not quite as heavy but I bet it would fill that role. Thanks for commenting!
@@Codi_Clapper no worries! I've now got a couple smaller axes, a HB 1.2, the Montreal, and a brades 1.2 Dayton set up as a hiking/camp splitter. I consider my husqvarna as a hatchet on a long handle, but the Montreal gets a fair bit of use and is a good one to own imo. Will try a council one day, they seem like a good deal
@@kurts64 Unfortunately HB's run at a Gransfors pricepoint here in the states. I really like the looks of their Agdor-line Tasmanian pattern, though I've only seen a few people who own one. Council is indeed good value for the money. Right now they're between $50 and $60 USD. About the same amount of tune-up work as an swedish axe but less than half the cost.
@@Codi_Clapper it's funny how cost varies. Here, the standard line/agdor model hb/hultafors run at about half the cost of a Granfors, plus they've been sold here for a long time so it's not uncommon to find vintage heads (how I became a fan of theirs). By comparison, the only Council dealer I know of only sells their premium lines, and are a good 50-70 bucks dearer than Gransfors! Actually just got a new Agdor Tassie a few days ago, hoping to get a vid out on it one day. If the rain ever stops!
Thanks Kevin! I appreciate you taking the time to join in and comment. I can see how cutting cordwood gets addicting! Once you start to get better at it, it's loads of fun- and great exercise too! I chop about once a month when I get home from college. Hoping to get into it more regularly in the near future. Watching your videos has meant a lot to the new guys like me. Thanks for keeping at it!
Great video. I like to try and match the axe I'm using to the wood I am cutting. Smaller pole timber gets a smaller boys sized axe, mostly because I hate burring the toe of a wide bit axe into the dirt. As for handle length, if I am bucking with feet on the ground I prefer 28 inches. Any log large enough to stand on gets a 30 inch.
Thanks! Yeah, I’ve come to a similar conclusion. For the wood that I’m bucking a boys axe like the council tool is probably best. The wide bit of the basque isn’t getting as good penetration when compared to my council tool. I bet I could blow through some of that small wood without the issue of getting stuck.
I think the 65 cm deels better. I've tried the 75 cm and is very cumbersome, don't know if it's about the handle shape...i've tried those basques with 28", 30" and 32" ochsenkopf handles and it works better than the stock jauregi 75cm one (for me....)
I agree. Doesn’t feel very balanced with the longer handle. I like how easy it is to reproduce slip fit handles, but those wedged-hangs sound pretty awesome too. I’ll have to try it sometime. Thanks for watching!
In my opinion, accuracy and form beat power all day long. Definitely prefer a shorter handle for just about all work. I’m more comfortable and accurate with them. In smaller timber especially.
Agreed, they’re a lot nicer to carry around too! I don’t see myself using anything longer than a 28” for most work. Felling is really the only instance where I prefer a long handle. It’s a litter safer, and you don’t have to put as much energy into into the swing. Otherwise, short handle for the win. Thanks for commenting, good to hear from you!
When bucking I like 24-26" handle for bucking, with one exception and that is when the log is so big I need a longer handle to reach the bottom. I am 6'2".
Amen brother! Short handles are easily the smartest choice for chopping between your legs. The control and accuracy makes for efficient work. I might go for long handle once I start getting an old back lol. Till then, short handles for the win. Thanks for watching!
It is a standard Jauregi 75cm handle. I thinned it down in all directions so that it slides easier in the hand. The stock handle was too thick for that light of a head. Fortunately all medium and large Basque axes have the same eye. So you can use 60, 65, and 75cm handles interchangeable amongst the different weighted heads.
@@Codi_Clapper I recently ordered a 1.25 kg Jauregi axe with 60 cm shaft. Haven't received it yet so can't comment about how it performs yet. I would like to try it with a 75 cm shaft, too. But in my case I will have to make one myself.
Is this really 3.3lbs? These axes come in .25kg increments, so it's likely either a 1.25kg or 1.5kg head. I've got a 1.25kg or 2.76lbs with the 60cm handle, & I just ordered a 1.75kg or 3.86lbs axe with the 65cm handle. I know this new axe is going to be my go to for bucking & splitting, as the smaller axe already does a fine job, hitting way above its weight. I actually enjoy the small handle on these, & I think another 2" with the 65cm handle on the 1.75kg version will be just right for this new heavier axe. I always prefer shorter handles on axes for the control. I absolutely love these Spanish axes...they just gouge the hell out of wood with their geometry, & again, I'm a big fan of these shorter, more narrow handles. It's also just cool using an axe that most people have never even heard of, or seen. I'm like "Oh, you've never seen one of these? Oh ya, I guess you have to be pretty badass to have one, like me, so it makes sense that they're new to you", as I hold the axe upright & draw it near, over-flexing my bicep in my sleeveless shirt.
Awesome brother! Yeah these are my favorite axes by far. Not ideal for felling and can glance pretty bad if not careful, but for bucking there is no production axe even close to it. Glad to hear you were able to start a little collection! I have the 1.5, 1.75, and 2kg. I can tell you with certainty that those are not the weights of the axe head, but rather the head and handle combined. I have no idea why they do that as it is very misleading. But basically I weight each head separate from the handle and they came out to “1.5” = 2.5 lbs, 1.75 = 3lbs, “2kg” = 3.5lbs. Sorry to tell you that haha. All great axes, the 1.75 is the one I use most, so enjoy!
Which ever handle length you like put a belly in the handle with an angle from the back of the handle that points to the edge of the axe head this gives the axe more speed as you guide your hands together in the swing and more penetration is gained by adding weight to the pole of the axe, there is no pole on that axe head. The axe is nice and sharp though. King Regards
Thanks for the input! Yeah I’ve heard of people doing that before, though I was always skeptical of how much extra it’s gonna give me. I always thin down my handles so that the taper in all directions down to the palm swell. I believe it is a similar effect. I will have to try sometime. Thanks for watching!!
Great job Codi !! Loved the video, and great job with the voice over, I’m still trying to figure all that out. It’s crazy how much of a difference handle length makes, I have to agree with your observation on keeping a slightly shorter handle on a slightly heavier head is a great feel it definitely helps in my eyes. I don’t have any experience with these style of axes but they sure are beautiful and seem fun to use. Do you have any issues with the slip for handles or with the metal. I know Kevin was able to over come his slip fit handle issue, which I have to say was quite creative. It seems to be an issue that a lot of people have with these axes. I also have been seeing a lot of discussion on the metal having issues with cracking or breaking. What are your thoughts on that do you think it’s the quality of the metal or the user. I’d love to hear what you think because the only people I know with these axes are you, Kevin, Matt, and Ben Scott. you all are extremely great axe users and all don’t seem to have any metal issues.
I appreciate that Joey! Voiceover wasn’t too bad, I’ve been using iMovie for all of my videos and there is an option to add in a voiceover. I had little luck in the past, but I figured out that my phone case was blocking the microphone causing my bad sound quality. All good now! I’m reluctant to make videos about the basques with all the issues people have been having, as I don’t want to support them anymore. It all just worked out that I acquired some decent ones and I really love them. I hate to see all the recent issues with steel because two of the basques I own are newer. I have not had any issues myself, fortunately. The biggest issue with Basques right now is lack of quality control. They’re in a high demand because of bushcraft propaganda and the fear of them becoming scarce is making people panick-buy them anytime one comes available. Because of this, the company can get away with warped handles, terrible fitmanship, and in some cases poorer steel. It is really unfortunate. It is a total gamble whether you will get a decent one or not, but it is almost guaranteed you will get a sloppy one at best. I’ve had to straighten or replace every handle that I have received from them. That says a lot. So while I really love these axes, the looks, the performance, and the culture, I really can’t recommend them to anyone. I’m hoping people that don’t have a basque can still take something from the video. I’m trying to make it as objective as possible, while still enjoying the axes that I own. Might as well see if they break! Haha Edit: Also, I appreciate you comparing me to those guys! I wouldn’t say I’m in the same league, as I don’t chop hardly enough, but it really means a lot to hear you say that. 😁
@@Codi_Clapper oh really I use i movie, I wonder if my case is also giving me an issue never thought of that !! Yeah man definitely a bummer the reputation those axes have now !! They’re so cool looking and seem to process wood extremely well, who knows maybe I’ll come across a used one one day and I’ll put my own whittle twist on it 🤙 man are you kidding, you have killer axe skills, trust me man don’t short yourself you’re doing a great job. I look up to all you guys and learn a lot from watching and listening 👍 keep up the great work man !!
@@940joey2 I appreciate that man! I look up to you as well. You have such a great attitude and are always seeking to help others. It means a lot. Thanks buddy!
Yes, that was a 3 pound head. Weight really depends on context. Even the long handle (29”) is practically a boys axe length. Most 28” handle axes are between 2 and 3 pounds. I haven’t had much experience with a heavy felling axe, but I rarely cut trees that would need one. Largest I’ve cut has been a 12” diameter tree. However, if I chose one, a polled-American single bit (Michigan or Dayton) would be my choice. Both really nice, balanced profiles for felling work. Typically 3.5-4 pounds and have been used on 32” + handles. It’s a subtle thing, but lacking a poll, I definitely notice the balance issue with increased weight and handle length. I’ve since gone back to the shorter haft due to better control and comfort. Funnily enough, I’ve been using a lighter 2.5lb head with that longer handle as my limbing and felling axe. It’s much more practical for that type of work and I don’t notice any issue with the balance being too front heavy. I like that it whips and bites better than the thicker-cheeked 3 pound head I showed in the video. 3 pounder has been more or less designated my bucking/splitting axe. Thanks for watching, and good questions!
@@Codi_Clapper I like the lighter heads (2.5ish) on 3/4 axe length handles (around 28" give or take an inch). It allows for the occassional one handed use, but is safe enough for two handed use. Hatchets, I prefer them 17"+ even if I'll never use both hands to swing one. I do have one I just bought, but it's a heavy head on a 15" haft. That I find okay because the weight of the head compensate for not using both hands. So, there are variations to play with. My favorite is the old school 3/4 axe with a 2.25# head minimum for what I do (camping, hunting grounds maintenance, etc...).
@@YankeeWoodcraft You make some good points. I agree, can't beat a classic boys axe. My cheap council tool is still my favorite for small wood and limbing.
Yeah I'm super fortunate here to have a bit of woods to explore and manage. Have been mostly cutting small suppressed trees. Right now I'm managing for healthier oaks and trying to create better wildlife habitat. Cutting trees down selectively can really help the overall productivity of the forest. Thanks for commenting man, really appreciate it!
Would recommend for sure! 75 is a little too long for comfortable bucking, but is awesome for felling and limbing. 70 would be really nice, especially racing style if you can find one. Since posting this vid I actually swapped my 1.5kg head on the 75cm handle for a light, whippy felling axe, and the 1.75 head Ive been using on a 65cm handle for bucking and splitting tasks. This combo works really well.
Correct, but these axes are marked in total weight, head and handle. I removed the handle and weighed the head on an electronic scale. The weight in pounds was 2.99. Not sure why they advertise them this way, as it is very misleading. You think you’d be getting a heavier axe. All of them are like this. If you go on Lamnia website, look at the replacement handles. They say the handle weight in the specs. Just subtract that weight from the axe you want to buy and it will be close to the head weight you will receive.
Nice to see some experimenting! The slip fit is definitely an advantage here to test handle lengths
Thank you, there’s always something new to experiment with using axes! Slip fits are super fun in my opinion 😄.
Thanks for watching!
r.e pole timber, having done lots of it, i find you can usually adapt a different technique for the under 6" stuff, usually i would just do one big swing at 45 on the first side and then do the same on the other side to meet it. Try it out on some smaller stuff and see how big you can go with it on the wood you're chopping. In green wood it works well. You can either make the cuts so that the severed wood forms a point or you can line the cut's up so that the two cuts form one diagonal line. Hope this makes sense!
also helps to have a lighter thin profiled axe that sinks deep to pull this technique off but it can still be done with big 4-5lbers.
another tip would be to try this same method but whilst using a backstop as if you were splitting axe cut rounds.
Wow, thanks for going into detail on this stuff!
I could definitely tell I wasn’t being efficient with that smaller wood. This helps a lot👍. Makes a lot of sense too. Like I told Kurt, I think I’m gonna start bringing my 17.5 degree CT boys axe for that type of work. The basque doesn’t seem to do so well on that dry oak.
Thanks again!
@@Codi_Clapper best thing you can do is experiment and enjoy!
Neat perspectives brother. You gotta use the tools that you feel most comfortable with -- for safety, efficiency & enjoyment. I'm 6ft & prefer a longer handle -- especially for splitting. Longer handles gives you more velocity for swings -- given you have the accuracy & space to swing. It's a little crazy, but if you have the money & passion, owning multiple axe types or length handles is best. That being said -- You're right, the slightly shorter handle works best for all purposes & is a little less to carry around if going hiking, camping, or trekking into the woods.
I stick by my longer handle for splitting & many tasks though. Everyone will have a different opinion based on their comfort. Keep up the good work man!! Keep on swinging!!
Nice job making the longer handle. I have the 1.5kg on the stock handle. The length suites me but I always wondered what a longer handle would be like.
Definitely fun on the 1.5! The 1.75 is a little too front heavy and doesn’t handle as well as I anticipated on that long handle. Good thing is it’s super easy to swap back and forth! But yeah, you aren’t missing too much. Without a poll for balance, the basques are best used on shorter handles.
Cool discussion! Never used a Basque, but definitely an advantage being able to swap out heads and handles. Like Joey L said, I try to match the axe to the timber if possible. For small wood I've found the 2.5 Montreal does well. Was cutting some 5 inch soft-ish green timber a few weeks back with a 4.5 Hytest and had to consciously moderate swing speed to avoid blowing through the log and dragging the toe. If I don't know what I'll be cutting for the day, I'll usually err on the side of the heavier axe. Edit: nice production, by the way👍
Thanks Kurt! I can see how a large axe might not always be good. I too would prefer to take a nice heavy workhorse if I might run into something gnarly. How do you like the Montreal? Is it the only boys axe you have? I have a council tool, not quite as heavy but I bet it would fill that role.
Thanks for commenting!
@@Codi_Clapper no worries! I've now got a couple smaller axes, a HB 1.2, the Montreal, and a brades 1.2 Dayton set up as a hiking/camp splitter. I consider my husqvarna as a hatchet on a long handle, but the Montreal gets a fair bit of use and is a good one to own imo. Will try a council one day, they seem like a good deal
@@kurts64 Unfortunately HB's run at a Gransfors pricepoint here in the states. I really like the looks of their Agdor-line Tasmanian pattern, though I've only seen a few people who own one.
Council is indeed good value for the money. Right now they're between $50 and $60 USD. About the same amount of tune-up work as an swedish axe but less than half the cost.
@@Codi_Clapper it's funny how cost varies. Here, the standard line/agdor model hb/hultafors run at about half the cost of a Granfors, plus they've been sold here for a long time so it's not uncommon to find vintage heads (how I became a fan of theirs). By comparison, the only Council dealer I know of only sells their premium lines, and are a good 50-70 bucks dearer than Gransfors! Actually just got a new Agdor Tassie a few days ago, hoping to get a vid out on it one day. If the rain ever stops!
@@kurts64 Man, that is crazy how much it varies lol.
Sounds great, I’m definitely looking forward to that video! 😁
Glad to see you posting vids. Subbed. Great experiment. Just keep working. You’ll figure out what you like and when. Cheers.
Thanks Kevin! I appreciate you taking the time to join in and comment.
I can see how cutting cordwood gets addicting! Once you start to get better at it, it's loads of fun- and great exercise too! I chop about once a month when I get home from college. Hoping to get into it more regularly in the near future.
Watching your videos has meant a lot to the new guys like me. Thanks for keeping at it!
Great video. I like to try and match the axe I'm using to the wood I am cutting. Smaller pole timber gets a smaller boys sized axe, mostly because I hate burring the toe of a wide bit axe into the dirt. As for handle length, if I am bucking with feet on the ground I prefer 28 inches. Any log large enough to stand on gets a 30 inch.
Thanks! Yeah, I’ve come to a similar conclusion. For the wood that I’m bucking a boys axe like the council tool is probably best. The wide bit of the basque isn’t getting as good penetration when compared to my council tool. I bet I could blow through some of that small wood without the issue of getting stuck.
I wish my handle was longer and better shaped.... Any help?
I think the 65 cm deels better. I've tried the 75 cm and is very cumbersome, don't know if it's about the handle shape...i've tried those basques with 28", 30" and 32" ochsenkopf handles and it works better than the stock jauregi 75cm one (for me....)
I agree. Doesn’t feel very balanced with the longer handle. I like how easy it is to reproduce slip fit handles, but those wedged-hangs sound pretty awesome too. I’ll have to try it sometime. Thanks for watching!
In my opinion, accuracy and form beat power all day long. Definitely prefer a shorter handle for just about all work. I’m more comfortable and accurate with them. In smaller timber especially.
Agreed, they’re a lot nicer to carry around too! I don’t see myself using anything longer than a 28” for most work.
Felling is really the only instance where I prefer a long handle. It’s a litter safer, and you don’t have to put as much energy into into the swing. Otherwise, short handle for the win.
Thanks for commenting, good to hear from you!
When bucking I like 24-26" handle for bucking, with one exception and that is when the log is so big I need a longer handle to reach the bottom. I am 6'2".
Amen brother! Short handles are easily the smartest choice for chopping between your legs. The control and accuracy makes for efficient work. I might go for long handle once I start getting an old back lol. Till then, short handles for the win. Thanks for watching!
I like the narrative... and the exit music 😉
The important stuff, huh? 😁
Is the 75 cm handle you are using in the video made by Jauregi or did you make it yourself to fit the axe head?
It is a standard Jauregi 75cm handle. I thinned it down in all directions so that it slides easier in the hand. The stock handle was too thick for that light of a head. Fortunately all medium and large Basque axes have the same eye. So you can use 60, 65, and 75cm handles interchangeable amongst the different weighted heads.
@@Codi_Clapper I recently ordered a 1.25 kg Jauregi axe with
60 cm shaft. Haven't received it yet so can't comment about how it performs yet. I would like to try it with a 75 cm shaft, too. But in my case I will have to make one myself.
Sorry I'm late I just found your channel! Subbed.
No worries man, I appreciate that!!
Is this really 3.3lbs? These axes come in .25kg increments, so it's likely either a 1.25kg or 1.5kg head. I've got a 1.25kg or 2.76lbs with the 60cm handle, & I just ordered a 1.75kg or 3.86lbs axe with the 65cm handle. I know this new axe is going to be my go to for bucking & splitting, as the smaller axe already does a fine job, hitting way above its weight. I actually enjoy the small handle on these, & I think another 2" with the 65cm handle on the 1.75kg version will be just right for this new heavier axe. I always prefer shorter handles on axes for the control. I absolutely love these Spanish axes...they just gouge the hell out of wood with their geometry, & again, I'm a big fan of these shorter, more narrow handles. It's also just cool using an axe that most people have never even heard of, or seen. I'm like "Oh, you've never seen one of these? Oh ya, I guess you have to be pretty badass to have one, like me, so it makes sense that they're new to you", as I hold the axe upright & draw it near, over-flexing my bicep in my sleeveless shirt.
Awesome brother! Yeah these are my favorite axes by far. Not ideal for felling and can glance pretty bad if not careful, but for bucking there is no production axe even close to it. Glad to hear you were able to start a little collection! I have the 1.5, 1.75, and 2kg. I can tell you with certainty that those are not the weights of the axe head, but rather the head and handle combined. I have no idea why they do that as it is very misleading. But basically I weight each head separate from the handle and they came out to “1.5” = 2.5 lbs, 1.75 = 3lbs, “2kg” = 3.5lbs. Sorry to tell you that haha. All great axes, the 1.75 is the one I use most, so enjoy!
Beautiful video
Appreciate it, thanks for commenting!
Which ever handle length you like put a belly in the handle with an angle from the back of the handle that points to the edge of the axe head this gives the axe more speed as you guide your hands together in the swing and more penetration is gained by adding weight to the pole of the axe, there is no pole on that axe head. The axe is nice and sharp though. King Regards
Thanks for the input! Yeah I’ve heard of people doing that before, though I was always skeptical of how much extra it’s gonna give me. I always thin down my handles so that the taper in all directions down to the palm swell. I believe it is a similar effect. I will have to try sometime. Thanks for watching!!
Great job Codi !! Loved the video, and great job with the voice over, I’m still trying to figure all that out.
It’s crazy how much of a difference handle length makes, I have to agree with your observation on keeping a slightly shorter handle on a slightly heavier head is a great feel it definitely helps in my eyes. I don’t have any experience with these style of axes but they sure are beautiful and seem fun to use.
Do you have any issues with the slip for handles or with the metal. I know Kevin was able to over come his slip fit handle issue, which I have to say was quite creative. It seems to be an issue that a lot of people have with these axes. I also have been seeing a lot of discussion on the metal having issues with cracking or breaking. What are your thoughts on that do you think it’s the quality of the metal or the user. I’d love to hear what you think because the only people I know with these axes are you, Kevin, Matt, and Ben Scott. you all are extremely great axe users and all don’t seem to have any metal issues.
I appreciate that Joey! Voiceover wasn’t too bad, I’ve been using iMovie for all of my videos and there is an option to add in a voiceover. I had little luck in the past, but I figured out that my phone case was blocking the microphone causing my bad sound quality. All good now!
I’m reluctant to make videos about the basques with all the issues people have been having, as I don’t want to support them anymore. It all just worked out that I acquired some decent ones and I really love them. I hate to see all the recent issues with steel because two of the basques I own are newer. I have not had any issues myself, fortunately.
The biggest issue with Basques right now is lack of quality control. They’re in a high demand because of bushcraft propaganda and the fear of them becoming scarce is making people panick-buy them anytime one comes available. Because of this, the company can get away with warped handles, terrible fitmanship, and in some cases poorer steel. It is really unfortunate.
It is a total gamble whether you will get a decent one or not, but it is almost guaranteed you will get a sloppy one at best.
I’ve had to straighten or replace every handle that I have received from them. That says a lot. So while I really love these axes, the looks, the performance, and the culture, I really can’t recommend them to anyone.
I’m hoping people that don’t have a basque can still take something from the video. I’m trying to make it as objective as possible, while still enjoying the axes that I own. Might as well see if they break! Haha
Edit: Also, I appreciate you comparing me to those guys! I wouldn’t say I’m in the same league, as I don’t chop hardly enough, but it really means a lot to hear you say that. 😁
@@Codi_Clapper oh really I use i movie, I wonder if my case is also giving me an issue never thought of that !! Yeah man definitely a bummer the reputation those axes have now !! They’re so cool looking and seem to process wood extremely well, who knows maybe I’ll come across a used one one day and I’ll put my own whittle twist on it 🤙 man are you kidding, you have killer axe skills, trust me man don’t short yourself you’re doing a great job. I look up to all you guys and learn a lot from watching and listening 👍 keep up the great work man !!
@@940joey2 I appreciate that man! I look up to you as well. You have such a great attitude and are always seeking to help others. It means a lot. Thanks buddy!
Yeah,accuracy is everything.
Urnieta, aizkora... 28" Handle.... I wish I could buy a 32" or 33" handle for this awesome axe head
Trees????
3lbs? Kind of light for felling, no?
I think the shorter handle is better for that weight, more like a miner's axe.
Yes, that was a 3 pound head. Weight really depends on context. Even the long handle (29”) is practically a boys axe length. Most 28” handle axes are between 2 and 3 pounds.
I haven’t had much experience with a heavy felling axe, but I rarely cut trees that would need one. Largest I’ve cut has been a 12” diameter tree. However, if I chose one, a polled-American single bit (Michigan or Dayton) would be my choice. Both really nice, balanced profiles for felling work. Typically 3.5-4 pounds and have been used on 32” + handles.
It’s a subtle thing, but lacking a poll, I definitely notice the balance issue with increased weight and handle length. I’ve since gone back to the shorter haft due to better control and comfort.
Funnily enough, I’ve been using a lighter 2.5lb head with that longer handle as my limbing and felling axe. It’s much more practical for that type of work and I don’t notice any issue with the balance being too front heavy. I like that it whips and bites better than the thicker-cheeked 3 pound head I showed in the video. 3 pounder has been more or less designated my bucking/splitting axe.
Thanks for watching, and good questions!
@@Codi_Clapper I like the lighter heads (2.5ish) on 3/4 axe length handles (around 28" give or take an inch).
It allows for the occassional one handed use, but is safe enough for two handed use.
Hatchets, I prefer them 17"+ even if I'll never use both hands to swing one.
I do have one I just bought, but it's a heavy head on a 15" haft. That I find okay because the weight of the head compensate for not using both hands.
So, there are variations to play with.
My favorite is the old school 3/4 axe with a 2.25# head minimum for what I do (camping, hunting grounds maintenance, etc...).
@@YankeeWoodcraft You make some good points. I agree, can't beat a classic boys axe. My cheap council tool is still my favorite for small wood and limbing.
nice vid man so jealous of the property can cut down wood like that! ha!
Yeah I'm super fortunate here to have a bit of woods to explore and manage. Have been mostly cutting small suppressed trees. Right now I'm managing for healthier oaks and trying to create better wildlife habitat. Cutting trees down selectively can really help the overall productivity of the forest.
Thanks for commenting man, really appreciate it!
Cool
I am going to put a 70 cm handle on my ond day. Definitely a good idea.
Would recommend for sure! 75 is a little too long for comfortable bucking, but is awesome for felling and limbing. 70 would be really nice, especially racing style if you can find one. Since posting this vid I actually swapped my 1.5kg head on the 75cm handle for a light, whippy felling axe, and the 1.75 head Ive been using on a 65cm handle for bucking and splitting tasks. This combo works really well.
@@Codi_Clapper right, I will make a black locust racing style handle for that thing.
👍👍🤘🤘🤘❤❤❤
1.75 is 3.87 pounds.
Correct, but these axes are marked in total weight, head and handle. I removed the handle and weighed the head on an electronic scale. The weight in pounds was 2.99. Not sure why they advertise them this way, as it is very misleading. You think you’d be getting a heavier axe. All of them are like this. If you go on Lamnia website, look at the replacement handles. They say the handle weight in the specs. Just subtract that weight from the axe you want to buy and it will be close to the head weight you will receive.