Stuck float/needle valve will cause the crankcase to fill with fuel. Take apart the carburetor and make sure the float is not full of fuel and can still float. Clean the needle and seat to ensure it still seals well. Then put together and see if it works. Sometimes you need to make small adjustments to the bowl to stop the fuel in time. But cleaning and ensuring the float still floats… should get it most of the time.
Yup, stuck float or needle, or needle doesn't seat properly. The hose ports on the carb are most likely vacuum ports that would allow tuning the carb based on the amount of vacuum the engine is creating in the intake. I don't know much about them, but somebody probably does. I think throwing the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner (after having removed as many of the rubber parts as possible) and checking the needle and seat will get you 90% of the way there.
And I would delete the reverse gear as I think that is not adjusted correctly so is the reason for the shocks opening when you put power down. If deleting it gets you the speed, then try adjusting the reverse clutch system.
Take the carburator off and take all the jets out,put it in your ultrasonic cleaner and clean it, make sure the float isn't full of fuel and the needle and seat are ok
Hi. I've wrestled with these things and those kinds of carbs alot so here's a couple perhaps helpful notes: -The non-existant idle is a sign of the pilot jet being clogged (duh). -The flooding is due to the needle & seat and/or floats being bad, as many people have already said. -The plugged-off hose is a vacuum line for an automatic fuel valve, which has been replaced with a regular tap-type. -The round thing on top of the carb with the broken hose is a Coasting Valve. It detects high vacuum in the intake (occurs when releasing the throttle at high RPM) and dumps more fuel in to prevent running lean. -The missing hoses are probably fuel overflow and drain lines. -the electric component on the carb is a solenoid enricher, it should click open when cranking and release when you let go of the starter button. -The stalling on throttle is a sign of the carb vacuum slide being sticky. These Constant Velocity, or "CV" carbs NEED the proper amount of intake vacuum to operate properly, and that's why it instantly shuts off at the end when you touch the throttle with the airbox removed. -The CVT weights being stuck can also cause stalling. The kart seems to work better in reverse, because reverse is geared lower. Maybe focus on the carb for now, though. -Best course of action is to take the carb off, clean the jets and the coasting valve and the slide. The slide should move without major "bumps" when pushed, and lower all the way down to idle position gently, by itself, when released.
I would disconnect the ebrake cable and try again.. I think it might be stuck on from where you shortened the cable by doubling it over. The way it loads up the suspension when giving it gas is the same thing that happened in a car with the e-brake on..
Great mid week video, nice cheap barn find. If the fuel is emptying into the crank case, then the carb float is either stuck, got crud stuck in it, get the carb off, strip it down, give it a good clean,make sure the float shuts off properly when your rebuilding it, try it again. 😊
Engine has spark and air, so obviously the fuel mix is the problem. It acts like a float-needle valve issue. My guess would be the carburetor float is corroded and filled with gas causing the needle valve to stay open. This would explain flooding the crankcase when the engine is off and choking the engine when opening the throttle. I'd recommend repairing or replacing the carb float.
I think the grease that you put on the clutch drum has contaminated the friction material and is causing it to slip. Also, the carb needs rebuilt with a new accelerator pump diaphragm. Follow the previous carb cleaning and float needle valve suggestions to stop the engine fooding and oil contamination. Along with the idle speed screw there are usually two additional adjustment screws on the carb. One is for smooth idle air/fuel mixture and the other is for load condition. Start by screwing them both all the way in until they gently touch bottom. Then try backing them off one and a half turns. Make fine adjustments from this point. Good luck Ants.
I will join you shortly in MinneSNOWta. But luckily we are having extra long summer so half of people complaining. Leaves on tree 1 month behind for fall colord. @Ants_Pants
Man that brings back memories!!! Go carts were a must have as a kid! Lots of fun to be had and trouble to get into. I haven’t even seen one in a while.
@@Ants_PantsThey are plain good fun. Yours looks like it may be a little faster than ours was. Not really a useful rig, but fun. Great way to get kiddos comfortable with driving. Ours were simple Honda gas engines so a good way to teach how to work on engines too. The only problem is you’ll need another to prevent fighting over it😂
@@Ants_Pants most go carts that you see here in the states have air cooled Briggs and Stratton engines, although nowadays you do also see a lot of chinese 'predator' engines as well.
Agree with the early comments, sounds like a stuck or leaky float, it is an easy fix Andris, and i think the clutch is a centrifugal type but i don’t know that model
Andris you guys have so much space there that you really need to find a two seater children's version of such a buggy for your two nieces man. As an uncle you have the task of spoiling your nieces, don't you know that? 🤔😉🤣 thanks for the video Andris
Yaba Daba dooo..... Ants Pants Rocks..... 🪨 Is there a belt drive and variator behind the cover... Might need new belt and heavy weights .... Maybe check valve clearance.... I love these channels.... Make her ding boy make her sing 👏👏🤣🤣🤣
The hose, which is sealed with a screw, is for vacuum to the fuel tap from the tank. In a different design, or at other times, these mopeds have an automatic fuel tap. When the engine is running, the vacuum from the carburetor opens it, then finally closes it by itself. Unfortunately, it often stops working, and then there is a solution with a regular fuel tap.
Behind the plastic cover on the driver side there should be a pair of “snowmobile” clutches. They are rarely maintained and lubricated. A new belt also works wonders. Lubricate the “slides” on the clutches.
Your internal fuel leaking is the needle and seat and the lack of power is the jets.Take the carb apart, it's not hard. Clean the float needle and seat and clean the jets with thin wire or use the tips of a torch cleaner set to clean the jets. Don't put the whole tip cleaner through the hole in the jet or it will open the jet and make it too large and that's not a good idea. I bet it will run great if you put an hour into cleaning that carb. That carburetor looks a lot like the one on my 97 Harley, they are very easy to work on, don't be afraid to take it apart. I'll bet all those hoses are for emissions and you could probably plug them all and not have an issue. Any gas motor that has been sitting for 2 or 3 years that wouldn't start and run right would have the carb off and on the bench.
MM77 Approved 👍🏼 👍🏼………………………………………………………….The guy towing you, knowing that you don’t have any brakes. Risking you smashing into his van and having to explain to the insurance company what happened! HIM , he’s the REAL hero!! LOL 😂😂
Hey I really love your old iron equipment I grew up running 1950s era equipment dozens trackhoes loaders and even an old drag line to bad we live so far away I know we would be able to make a great video for you that would go viral !
Sometimes those vacuum carburetors require an air box to run properly otherwise run to lean block half the intake with a piece of plastic and see if it runs better
Thanks Andris for your vid 😇💟💟💟 Love and bless you 🙏 floater from the carburetor is stuck open and the valves need to be looked at it doesn't have compression.
Ant, you're the best at figuring things out and doing what is necessary, do you like puzzles too? I think the carb needs a good cleaning and rebuilding, it looks like the entire idle circuit in the carb is clogged. Your tire pressure gauge.... "Calibrated to Earths natural air pressure" Priceless! Two knuckleheads playing with a toy buggy, it's what makes for great friends. You should be able to get a rebuilt kit for it, disassemble it and soak it in your sonic cleaner.
Flux core wire was invented to be used in windy conditions where the gas would be blown away. My grandson uses flux core all the time because he works outside most of the time and his welds are beautiful. Using it and getting good welds is like how a musician gets to Carnegie Hall, practice, practice, practice.
Карбюратор заливает из-за краника на баке это не правильный кран нужен с вакумным выключателем как на китайском скутере и шланг от пластикового переходника идёт к крану чтоб при вакууме открывался кран когда заведён и закрыт когда заглушен двигатель
That Mag Drill is a game changer, I don't regret buying mine, although Vevor Probable gave you yours. I have that reluctance to work on Carburetors as well, to many tiny parts to loose, but the float level is clearly not right
You gave it your best shot Andris, you went above and beyond the call of duty on this one. You know what they say, " you cant polish a turd ". I think you paid about $149.00 too much for this one, but great video all the same. Thanks for sharing, take care.😊
One of the open vacuum ports should have opened the fuel valve when the engine was in it's former scooter frame, so it can be blocked off for sure. Checking on the float and the idle circuit would be a good starting point, as it was suggested before. Also the CVT under the black cover at the left side would benefit from a good check up, could be even the fly clutch in the rear that is stuck from sitting...or the belt itself. Good luck with it, seems well built, never seen a reverse clutch like this has... 👍👍👍
Nice one again even if it did maye not come out as planned. I jope it was as much gun for you working and driving it as for me watching it :-) Have a nice week.
I think that's where the smoke was coming from. Seems like a sticky clutch possibly. Certainly could use a little peek inside to see what's going on. That reverse assembly on the rear looks like it works on the planetary gearset principle.
👍🤔If fuel is leaking into the engine, this means that the carburetor is the cause of this. Another note: Also, wash the fuel tank to make sure that there is no dirt at the point of closing and opening the fuel.
The line that is closed with the screw once went to a fuel tap that was controlled with negative pressure. This means that as soon as the engine turns, a vacuum is generated and the fuel tap is opened automatically.
Few pointers if you decide to come back to this project: To me it seems the buggy wants to move as it's rotating the rear-part up when it gets torgue but something prevents it from moving freely. Are you sure the front brakes are not sticking? Sticking brake can prevent driving in one direction but allow into another and it did drive in reverse. The whole time it moved, it looked the engine was struggling to overcome some braking force. That smoke you saw in 49:54 from the the transmission case could be if the engine is pushing the CVT and the belt to it's limit. Never tinkered much with them but that seems like it's CVT housing.... The throttle has a variable 'throat', it's the cylinder vibrating up and down when the engine idles. There is a membrane above that should move it up and down according to the vacuum, allowing more air in when high RPM. If the vacuum hoses has been cut, blocked or are leaking, it would prevent the throat from opening which could stall the engine when it gets more gas and goes too rich. You could try lifting that cylinder with something and see if it helps with the engine not stalling. Dude, that "liquid" in 24:19 is not looking good, at all. If you decide to keep it, open that brake cylinder and clean it. There should be seal kits available (piston + few o-rings) so you don't need to buy the whole cylinder. Then, drain all the liquids out and put new one in. Cheap investment on the long run. Also, there are one man bleeding kits that allows one person to bleed brakes, makes it quick and easy to change and bleed brakes.
The left cover on that engine is a CVT type transmission. It has a belt and variable width pulleys. It is most likely that one of the pulleys is stuck and is keeping it in a high Drive ratio which prevents you from starting out. The reverse gears down the speed which is why it works better if you can get that side cover off you will probably get this fixed otherwise it seems to be okay
The carb has two gas systems, one idle system to make sure the engine keeps running without you pressing the gass pedal and one gas system for when you do press the gass padel. And there are smal passages inside so any dirt will clog it, so just pulling the carb out, dismantel all you can and blow thow it with air will often make it run good again, And alwas use 98oktan gas(supreme) the regular one goes bad and crysalises and then clogs the system. Also in the bottom of the carb is a plastic floter that need to move freely and the needel that conects with it needs to be clean and that needel and floter is what opens and closes the phuel into the carb😊
Hello Andris, We call them Go Carts here. Pretty much just for fun riding around on beaches and trails they are not street legal here strictly dirt roads and trails and beaches. We have a place here where they built a track for riding them around and people race each other. You might have to try starting it in Neutral then put it in gear. We have a four wheeler that needs to start in Neutral. It looked like the brakes were locking up. Put the carburetor in your sonic cleaner and clean it up and see if that helps.
Sounds like a stuck float. The float might not be floating anymore because it’s full of fuel or the needle valve is stuck. Or both. Carburetors aren’t very complicated once you take them apart and figure them out. Also sounds like you might have a vacuum leak. Those small engines also need back pressure from the exhaust to idle correctly and run anywhere near decent so if the exhaust isn’t sealed very good it could run like poop.
It looks like the front brake calibers are reversed the bleeder should be on top to let air out. Besides the fuel issues these machines are a lot of fun. I repaired a few of these for friends. When the fuel washes out the cylinder there is a loss of compression which won't let it start. Good luck.
Ants, you should open the carburator and clean it. I guess there are a lot of mud, that can helps the fuel valve to stuck. Also check the voltage on electrical chock on the carburetor.
I thought my welding was crap, then someone pointed this out to me. Inside the welder you can switch the terminals by the output, and now I honestly don't think I want to go back. The welds come out cleaner. You just have to use some weld spray to keep the dusty crap off the metal to make painting easier. Try it one time. Bet you a nice sausage it works.
use some tooth paste and take the float needle and lap it. easy cheap lapping. These things are usually jetted with the restriction of a air filter installed, so if you have it still it will run better. they run lean without any restriction. Either way, I dont blame you for not wanting to work on that crap, but thanks for the video. I'm glad im not working on it!
Those motors are a belt driven CVT like all twist and go mopeds and it sounds like the belt maybe shot especially when you factor in your friends size. Also the carburettors on those types of engines are in my opinion, total junk and are amazingly hard to set up. Red Beards Garage has some good videos on how to convert those over to a go power sports replacement carb & fuel pump combo. .
I seriously thought you would be pulling "Ole Yeller" around with that by the end of the video. I guess I will need to wait until the next installment to see that.🧐
Seems like carburetor issues brother and the float in the carburetor needs to be cleaned out and readjusted! 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Your neighbor just wants to ride without helping you work on it! What are his skills, Andris? Sit and spin? lol 🤣😂🤣
Andris, in addition to the stuck float/carb problem, I think the CVT output cone is jammed in low speed - the power cone is trying to ramp up the speed, but can't, causing massive friction and drag. Hence the stalling and smoke from the left hand rear. Same symptoms you have - it will trickle along at low revs, but bog down if you try to add more power. Hope your a$$ is OK. ;-)
I think the guy wants too much brother, usually if you do one thing they will want more done! That’s how it works for me with my friends! So I tell them myself stuff is broken and then I don’t have to worry about their crap 💩 again! 👌🏻😁😁 You should be the first one to try it out my friend! He could’ve bought a new key switch at least, instead of using a screwdriver to start the crap 💩?
100% there are some brakes on or some driveline/bearings etc stuck on rear end. The rear goes up when you try to drive + the CVT (Variaator) should not start smoking as easy for that small of a ride, it will smoke when its overloaded. Have a good one! Kaasmaalane. :)
Stuck float/needle valve will cause the crankcase to fill with fuel. Take apart the carburetor and make sure the float is not full of fuel and can still float. Clean the needle and seat to ensure it still seals well. Then put together and see if it works. Sometimes you need to make small adjustments to the bowl to stop the fuel in time. But cleaning and ensuring the float still floats… should get it most of the time.
Sure when i dig myself out of all that dirt im in right now 😜
@@Ants_Pants dirt do need a diggin! Diggy diggy hole is the way of the mole. Lol
Yup, stuck float or needle, or needle doesn't seat properly. The hose ports on the carb are most likely vacuum ports that would allow tuning the carb based on the amount of vacuum the engine is creating in the intake. I don't know much about them, but somebody probably does. I think throwing the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner (after having removed as many of the rubber parts as possible) and checking the needle and seat will get you 90% of the way there.
And I would delete the reverse gear as I think that is not adjusted correctly so is the reason for the shocks opening when you put power down. If deleting it gets you the speed, then try adjusting the reverse clutch system.
@@Ants_Pants Cats like to hide treasures in sand and dirt piles. LOL Don't ask how I know this. 🙃
Take the carburator off and take all the jets out,put it in your ultrasonic cleaner and clean it, make sure the float isn't full of fuel and the needle and seat are ok
Hi. I've wrestled with these things and those kinds of carbs alot so here's a couple perhaps helpful notes:
-The non-existant idle is a sign of the pilot jet being clogged (duh).
-The flooding is due to the needle & seat and/or floats being bad, as many people have already said.
-The plugged-off hose is a vacuum line for an automatic fuel valve, which has been replaced with a regular tap-type.
-The round thing on top of the carb with the broken hose is a Coasting Valve. It detects high vacuum in the intake (occurs when releasing the throttle at high RPM) and dumps more fuel in to prevent running lean.
-The missing hoses are probably fuel overflow and drain lines.
-the electric component on the carb is a solenoid enricher, it should click open when cranking and release when you let go of the starter button.
-The stalling on throttle is a sign of the carb vacuum slide being sticky.
These Constant Velocity, or "CV" carbs NEED the proper amount of intake vacuum to operate properly, and that's why it instantly shuts off at the end when you touch the throttle with the airbox removed.
-The CVT weights being stuck can also cause stalling. The kart seems to work better in reverse, because reverse is geared lower. Maybe focus on the carb for now, though.
-Best course of action is to take the carb off, clean the jets and the coasting valve and the slide. The slide should move without major "bumps" when pushed, and lower all the way down to idle position gently, by itself, when released.
Thanks for the info, i will write it down and once i have time to deal with this thing i will get to work
Amazing find.
Hello from one hatched in Fort Gary, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada in 1952.
October 8th, 2024
Your front brake calipers are on the wrong side. The bleeder should be on top.
ok
I would disconnect the ebrake cable and try again..
I think it might be stuck on from where you shortened the cable by doubling it over.
The way it loads up the suspension when giving it gas is the same thing that happened in a car with the e-brake on..
Bonus video, yay!! I know it will be more often a midweek video, but still feels like bonus to me.🤣
Not every week but still i try
Back to mars 😅😢😢😮
@@Ants_Pants just don't burn yourself out dude
Great mid week video, nice cheap barn find.
If the fuel is emptying into the crank case, then the carb float is either stuck, got crud stuck in it, get the carb off, strip it down, give it a good clean,make sure the float shuts off properly when your rebuilding it, try it again. 😊
" And somehow that arrow will end up in my a$$!" I feel ye Andris. Thanks for all ye do here on the Tube. Take care & stay safe.
You got the saying wrong.. It's -- I was an adventurer until I took a arrow to the knee
Engine has spark and air, so obviously the fuel mix is the problem. It acts like a float-needle valve issue. My guess would be the carburetor float is corroded and filled with gas causing the needle valve to stay open. This would explain flooding the crankcase when the engine is off and choking the engine when opening the throttle. I'd recommend repairing or replacing the carb float.
I think the grease that you put on the clutch drum has contaminated the friction material and is causing it to slip. Also, the carb needs rebuilt with a new accelerator pump diaphragm. Follow the previous carb cleaning and float needle valve suggestions to stop the engine fooding and oil contamination. Along with the idle speed screw there are usually two additional adjustment screws on the carb. One is for smooth idle air/fuel mixture and the other is for load condition. Start by screwing them both all the way in until they gently touch bottom. Then try backing them off one and a half turns. Make fine adjustments from this point. Good luck Ants.
Thanks
i love the fact that it sounds like a oversized bubble machine
That looks like it'd be a ton of fun.
Towing was awesome. It reminded me so much of farm life. If it worked and did not kill you, then it was OK. Another different and fun video.
At least it was a nice day, now it's cold and nonstopp rain 😪
I will join you shortly in MinneSNOWta. But luckily we are having extra long summer so half of people complaining. Leaves on tree 1 month behind for fall colord. @Ants_Pants
Matt from diesel creek uploaded a honda UTV bought from auction.
You did the same... 😂😂
i spy with my glorious eye
Ants we call them go-karts here in the US. Any video you do I certainly appreciate your effort humor and cinematic expertise 😂
Is buggy a wrong term?
@@Ants_Pants you are the man!!! you can call it whatever you want, as long as you continue to make videos...love your channel my friend!!
@@ihnas2578 i will call it that thing over there
The only thing better than a good friend is a big friend. That motor sounds like a bubble machine.
Maybe it's bumblebee?
I've always said, smaller engines are harder to fix than bigger ones! I just fixed a Wacker dirt compactor. What am unbelievable picky little engine!
Yeh i think so too
Man that brings back memories!!! Go carts were a must have as a kid! Lots of fun to be had and trouble to get into. I haven’t even seen one in a while.
Iv never driven one
@@Ants_PantsThey are plain good fun. Yours looks like it may be a little faster than ours was.
Not really a useful rig, but fun. Great way to get kiddos comfortable with driving. Ours were simple Honda gas engines so a good way to teach how to work on engines too.
The only problem is you’ll need another to prevent fighting over it😂
Yep as many mentioned a stuck float in the carburetor is the problem. Cleaning the carburetor often solves all problems😁
We call those 'go carts' around here. That's a pretty nice one though, with a radiator and all.
are they usually without one?
@@Ants_Pants most go carts that you see here in the states have air cooled Briggs and Stratton engines, although nowadays you do also see a lot of chinese 'predator' engines as well.
@@imaginarymask ohh ok
Agree with the early comments, sounds like a stuck or leaky float, it is an easy fix Andris, and i think the clutch is a centrifugal type but i don’t know that model
Carburetor float is stuck!
I follow 'rather B welding' a young American dude that makes those things. Very interesting stuff.
Andris you guys have so much space there
that you really need to find a two seater children's version of such a buggy for your two nieces man.
As an uncle you have the task of spoiling your nieces, don't you know that? 🤔😉🤣
thanks for the video Andris
Yes we do
Yaba Daba dooo..... Ants Pants Rocks..... 🪨
Is there a belt drive and variator behind the cover... Might need new belt and heavy weights .... Maybe check valve clearance.... I love these channels.... Make her ding boy make her sing 👏👏🤣🤣🤣
Light weights for higher rpm before clutch engagement
The Relic Whisperer is at it again. That’s going to be a lot of fun.
As an accomplished arrow catcher myself, I feel your pain. Thanks for sharing!
Haha
The hose, which is sealed with a screw, is for vacuum to the fuel tap from the tank. In a different design, or at other times, these mopeds have an automatic fuel tap. When the engine is running, the vacuum from the carburetor opens it, then finally closes it by itself. Unfortunately, it often stops working, and then there is a solution with a regular fuel tap.
I had no idea about this. Thanks for the info
You should use that buggy as a boat anchor, it would work well for that. Cheers dude.
Behind the plastic cover on the driver side there should be a pair of “snowmobile” clutches. They are rarely maintained and lubricated. A new belt also works wonders.
Lubricate the “slides” on the clutches.
ok i will check it out
Your internal fuel leaking is the needle and seat and the lack of power is the jets.Take the carb apart, it's not hard. Clean the float needle and seat and clean the jets with thin wire or use the tips of a torch cleaner set to clean the jets. Don't put the whole tip cleaner through the hole in the jet or it will open the jet and make it too large and that's not a good idea. I bet it will run great if you put an hour into cleaning that carb. That carburetor looks a lot like the one on my 97 Harley, they are very easy to work on, don't be afraid to take it apart. I'll bet all those hoses are for emissions and you could probably plug them all and not have an issue. Any gas motor that has been sitting for 2 or 3 years that wouldn't start and run right would have the carb off and on the bench.
Getting ready for next years mud run I see...
MM77 Approved 👍🏼 👍🏼………………………………………………………….The guy towing you, knowing that you don’t have any brakes. Risking you smashing into his van and having to explain to the insurance company what happened! HIM , he’s the REAL hero!! LOL 😂😂
lol
❤ I love all your videos the longer the better keep up the good work ❤
Thank you! Will do!
The motor sounds like something from SpongeBob Squarepants when trying to start it. Lol
hahahah
Hey I really love your old iron equipment I grew up running 1950s era equipment dozens trackhoes loaders and even an old drag line to bad we live so far away I know we would be able to make a great video for you that would go viral !
yes of course i just lack the space
..and the rear axle brake is binding.
Sometimes those vacuum carburetors require an air box to run properly otherwise run to lean block half the intake with a piece of plastic and see if it runs better
Thanks Andris for your vid 😇💟💟💟 Love and bless you 🙏 floater from the carburetor is stuck open and the valves need to be looked at it doesn't have compression.
Ant, you're the best at figuring things out and doing what is necessary, do you like puzzles too? I think the carb needs a good cleaning and rebuilding, it looks like the entire idle circuit in the carb is clogged. Your tire pressure gauge.... "Calibrated to Earths natural air pressure" Priceless! Two knuckleheads playing with a toy buggy, it's what makes for great friends. You should be able to get a rebuilt kit for it, disassemble it and soak it in your sonic cleaner.
Yes and yes
Other than the stuck float/ needle valve it sounds like the electronic fuel enrichment solenoid is open. Another Great a video.
Thanks for the info
Beautiful country side !
Flux core wire was invented to be used in windy conditions where the gas would be blown away. My grandson uses flux core all the time because he works outside most of the time and his welds are beautiful. Using it and getting good welds is like how a musician gets to Carnegie Hall, practice, practice, practice.
Nothing better than a midweek Ants adventure!
Bit like most get dirty hands and all looks like fun.😎🇦🇺By the way in joy your antics great to see.Thanks to you and yours and mine cheers.
Thank you as always!
I really appreciate that you entertain us. Always looking forward till your next :)
Карбюратор заливает из-за краника на баке это не правильный кран нужен с вакумным выключателем как на китайском скутере и шланг от пластикового переходника идёт к крану чтоб при вакууме открывался кран когда заведён и закрыт когда заглушен двигатель
Men working on toys. You and Andrew. 😂
H'mmmm, maybe you can mount it on top of Joseph as a get-away car when SuperMom gets after you for chewing up her beautiful lawn. Lol
lol what
Nice find! kids will like it!
I think the clutch thing has a planetary gear inside that can reverse the gocart. Haven't seen the whole clip yet but I guess I'm onto something..
yeah its a reverse clutch i think
its a dune buggy, looks hours of fun. /to repair/
Hi,
Tri to smile, tomorrow the sun shines again.
Willy from Belgium.🌄🌅☀🌞
it's raining bro
That Mag Drill is a game changer, I don't regret buying mine, although Vevor Probable gave you yours. I have that reluctance to work on Carburetors as well, to many tiny parts to loose, but the float level is clearly not right
You gave it your best shot Andris, you went above and beyond the call of duty on this one. You know what they say, " you cant polish a turd ". I think you paid about $149.00 too much for this one, but great video all the same. Thanks for sharing, take care.😊
Take care
One of the open vacuum ports should have opened the fuel valve when the engine was in it's former scooter frame, so it can be blocked off for sure.
Checking on the float and the idle circuit would be a good starting point, as it was suggested before.
Also the CVT under the black cover at the left side would benefit from a good check up, could be even the fly clutch in the rear that is stuck from sitting...or the belt itself.
Good luck with it, seems well built, never seen a reverse clutch like this has...
👍👍👍
Me neither
For the Milwaukee Angle grinder battery issue, check the battery contacts. They may need to be bent/adjusted. Something similar happened to me.
Nice one again even if it did maye not come out as planned. I jope it was as much gun for you working and driving it as for me watching it :-) Have a nice week.
58:48 check ignition timing and compression for your lack of torque and no idle
when we've already been waiting for the video about Kirovets 😆😆
i wanna finish my spaceport project first, lol
A complete carb strip down and clean might fix it ,apart from that , Don't let the buggy bug you too much ,
Check the CVT belt on the left side behind the black cover.
I think that's where the smoke was coming from. Seems like a sticky clutch possibly. Certainly could use a little peek inside to see what's going on. That reverse assembly on the rear looks like it works on the planetary gearset principle.
it appears so
spark and gas makes the engine run Thinking a good cleaning of the carborator might help also.
The carb is dumping fuel into the engine stuck float or needle valve is shot …
Hand cranking the wheel looked like an idea...of course I am old enough to remember the Flintstones hot-footin' it in their car.
Oh right
👍🤔If fuel is leaking into the engine, this means that the carburetor is the cause of this. Another note: Also, wash the fuel tank to make sure that there is no dirt at the point of closing and opening the fuel.
The line that is closed with the screw once went to a fuel tap that was controlled with negative pressure.
This means that as soon as the engine turns, a vacuum is generated and the fuel tap is opened automatically.
Interesting, how about reconnect it then?
Yes perfect timing 👍👍
Oww man hes going totally Andrew 1000000 now, i cant wait for this channel to grow and watch in in the coming years👊🏼👍🏼
Few pointers if you decide to come back to this project:
To me it seems the buggy wants to move as it's rotating the rear-part up when it gets torgue but something prevents it from moving freely. Are you sure the front brakes are not sticking? Sticking brake can prevent driving in one direction but allow into another and it did drive in reverse. The whole time it moved, it looked the engine was struggling to overcome some braking force.
That smoke you saw in 49:54 from the the transmission case could be if the engine is pushing the CVT and the belt to it's limit. Never tinkered much with them but that seems like it's CVT housing....
The throttle has a variable 'throat', it's the cylinder vibrating up and down when the engine idles. There is a membrane above that should move it up and down according to the vacuum, allowing more air in when high RPM. If the vacuum hoses has been cut, blocked or are leaking, it would prevent the throat from opening which could stall the engine when it gets more gas and goes too rich. You could try lifting that cylinder with something and see if it helps with the engine not stalling.
Dude, that "liquid" in 24:19 is not looking good, at all. If you decide to keep it, open that brake cylinder and clean it. There should be seal kits available (piston + few o-rings) so you don't need to buy the whole cylinder. Then, drain all the liquids out and put new one in. Cheap investment on the long run. Also, there are one man bleeding kits that allows one person to bleed brakes, makes it quick and easy to change and bleed brakes.
Thanks for the info
The left cover on that engine is a CVT type transmission. It has a belt and variable width pulleys. It is most likely that one of the pulleys is stuck and is keeping it in a high Drive ratio which prevents you from starting out. The reverse gears down the speed which is why it works better if you can get that side cover off you will probably get this fixed otherwise it seems to be okay
Yup! A stuck float. That Carb. needs rebuilding.
The joy on your face, priceless 😂
Sometimes if I have something that is hardened steel you can punch a hole by heating up the part red hot and using a hammer and punch.
The carb has two gas systems,
one idle system to make sure the engine keeps running without you pressing the gass pedal
and one gas system for when you do press the gass padel.
And there are smal passages inside so any dirt will clog it, so just pulling the carb out, dismantel all you can and blow thow it with air will often make it run good again,
And alwas use 98oktan gas(supreme) the regular one goes bad and crysalises and then clogs the system.
Also in the bottom of the carb is a plastic floter that need to move freely and the needel that conects with it needs to be clean and that needel and floter is what opens and closes the phuel into the carb😊
Ok thanks
That looks like fun.
Hello Andris, We call them Go Carts here. Pretty much just for fun riding around on beaches and trails they are not street legal here strictly dirt roads and trails and beaches. We have a place here where they built a track for riding them around and people race each other. You might have to try starting it in Neutral then put it in gear. We have a four wheeler that needs to start in Neutral. It looked like the brakes were locking up. Put the carburetor in your sonic cleaner and clean it up and see if that helps.
Yeh
Sounds like a stuck float. The float might not be floating anymore because it’s full of fuel or the needle valve is stuck. Or both. Carburetors aren’t very complicated once you take them apart and figure them out. Also sounds like you might have a vacuum leak. Those small engines also need back pressure from the exhaust to idle correctly and run anywhere near decent so if the exhaust isn’t sealed very good it could run like poop.
It looks like the front brake calibers are reversed the bleeder should be on top to let air out. Besides the fuel issues these machines are a lot of fun. I repaired a few of these for friends. When the fuel washes out the cylinder there is a loss of compression which won't let it start. Good luck.
ohh didnt know that
Ants, you should open the carburator and clean it. I guess there are a lot of mud, that can helps the fuel valve to stuck. Also check the voltage on electrical chock on the carburetor.
you have to reverse polarity on the welder for flux core. welds amazing when you do.
Ohh
I thought my welding was crap, then someone pointed this out to me. Inside the welder you can switch the terminals by the output, and now I honestly don't think I want to go back. The welds come out cleaner. You just have to use some weld spray to keep the dusty crap off the metal to make painting easier. Try it one time. Bet you a nice sausage it works.
use some tooth paste and take the float needle and lap it. easy cheap lapping. These things are usually jetted with the restriction of a air filter installed, so if you have it still it will run better. they run lean without any restriction. Either way, I dont blame you for not wanting to work on that crap, but thanks for the video. I'm glad im not working on it!
Currently buzy with my road mission, i will try continue the work next year
Your idea of cleaning the carburetor was good. Get a rebuild kit and it will have new needle valve.
Idk what the model is though no info on it
love tuesday update from Sir Ants
Awesome thanks for the video dude❤
We would call it in eagle units....yard cart
Those motors are a belt driven CVT like all twist and go mopeds and it sounds like the belt maybe shot especially when you factor in your friends size. Also the carburettors on those types of engines are in my opinion, total junk and are amazingly hard to set up. Red Beards Garage has some good videos on how to convert those over to a go power sports replacement carb & fuel pump combo. .
yeah couple of people now have said in the comments section that those carbs are junk
I seriously thought you would be pulling "Ole Yeller" around with that by the end of the video. I guess I will need to wait until the next installment to see that.🧐
Carb kit would help with the GoKart.
just needs to be cleaned. Float needle is stuck open. That's why the crank case fills with gasoline.
Andris has got a new toy!
I thought you would pressure washed the whole thing before working on it..... 😂🇺🇲
but it was so clean :D
Seems like carburetor issues brother and the float in the carburetor needs to be cleaned out and readjusted! 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Your neighbor just wants to ride without helping you work on it! What are his skills, Andris? Sit and spin? lol 🤣😂🤣
Andris, in addition to the stuck float/carb problem, I think the CVT output cone is jammed in low speed - the power cone is trying to ramp up the speed, but can't, causing massive friction and drag. Hence the stalling and smoke from the left hand rear. Same symptoms you have - it will trickle along at low revs, but bog down if you try to add more power. Hope your a$$ is OK. ;-)
Okk
I think the guy wants too much brother, usually if you do one thing they will want more done! That’s how it works for me with my friends! So I tell them myself stuff is broken and then I don’t have to worry about their crap 💩 again! 👌🏻😁😁 You should be the first one to try it out my friend! He could’ve bought a new key switch at least, instead of using a screwdriver to start the crap 💩?
😂😂
Just clean the carb properly. Its most likely the float not working properly flooding the engine. And brakes are clearly stuck :P
Sup Ants !
100% there are some brakes on or some driveline/bearings etc stuck on rear end. The rear goes up when you try to drive + the CVT (Variaator) should not start smoking as easy for that small of a ride, it will smoke when its overloaded.
Have a good one! Kaasmaalane. :)
Disc brake stuck front ent
@@Ants_Pants wow did not expect nothing wrong on front end to be honest. Nice find.
Pull the carb and clean out the jets and adjusted the needle seat off the float or better yet get a rebuild kit.