Thanks for the video it's great to see a young lady that isn't afraid to work on her car! The only suggestion I have is to turn the camera the other way because it would be much easier to see with a full screen. Otherwise, it was good, and explained well.
Finally a video that doesn't have extra nonsense blabing on how to jack up a car and take off a tire... straight to the point and clear visual on what where and how. Thank you! Does make it look easy with the motor out though lol luckily my hands are that of a squid
Straight to the point this helped me out a lot even though it’s harder to do inside the engine bay I was able to easily do it with my sons help, thank you for this video
Great easy to follow video, very helpful and very well made. My motor on Ford laser went totally out of timing after I changed the water pump. I followed every step in your clip and now it runs like a dream. You saved me a lot mucking around, Thanks very much Jennifer. cheers
Wow! That's the best explanation I've ever seen- I'm getting ready to redo my timing for the umpteenth time and I know I'll get it right first time now!
Good video, I agree with all except putting the tensioner at 11.00, the spring hasn;t enough pull to get crank to tdc, well mine didn;t work that way, I just had it off about 2mm to the left and when I released the tension it set it perfectly, at least you removed the tensioner not like other vids where they said to just move it over and lock it off, it's not enough that way you wont get the belt on unless you remove it, thanx great help..
If your spring isn’t pulling it all the way back, you probably need to replace your spring. My spring was brand new when i did mine and it worked perfectly. And has for many others. Just a thought. Might want to check in there. A bad spring can jump timing. At least it’s a none interference motor though.
Hey, I am so sorry I didn’t see this until now! I’m sure you’ve long gotten that figured out, but just in case you still have this question or anyone else for that matter…the spring creates the tension. Nothing has to be manually set like with the other belts on the car. However if you feel tension is off, you made need a new spring.
Hello thank you for posting this video. Wonder if you made any other work on the Mazda protege I Am having a/ c issues, the resistor and blower fan. Thank you
I am so sorry I am just seeing this comment. If you haven't fixed it yet, check out harnessedperformance.com/mazda/protege/99-03/electrical/ac-resistor-fix-harness/ He is another Protege guy and he does all sorts of wire fixes, included the A/C problem you and all the rest of us have problems with! His fix is easy and solid and works!
This worked perfectly. Crank and cams lined up. My question is, there’s a tool you can get that holds the cams, using the two grooves on the end of the cams. Basically a square bar that fits in the grooves. When my I and E are lined up, those grooves are vertical. Instead of horizontal. Which would make the tool useless. I tried swapping cam gears. Apparently they’re the same ? Because it’s still where the grooves are vertical. Any clue ?
Howdy, there. Great vid. I just got a mazda 626 i bought it with bad water pump so i did both T belt and water pump. Nos thats done ir sounds like a diesel engine, knocks are coming from the T belt área. Any suggestions? Thanks
Im not familiar with that engine, but if it's anything like this engine, I would assume so. It's easy enough to give it a shot and try...just make sure to manually turn the engine when your done to make sure it all is good and staying in time.
Quick question I hope it makes sense, so when you turn the camshaft sprocket and the timing mark lines up with the head that means it's on time right? So I guess what I'm trying to say is every time you rotate the sprocket and that Mark lines up with the head that means it's timed right no matter how many times you rotate it?
@@crystrezerex2life hey Frankie, just happened to go through comments and saw I missed your follow up. If you for some reason have not figured it out still, let me know.
So i got the heads resurfaced, i lined lined up all timing marks before removing anything. Now to reinstall, .....i put the camshafts back on and the timing marks are lined up already, do i need to rotate the camshafts, cause if i do one full roatation there just going to come back into alignment again?
I’d most certainly rotate it at least 3 times to make sure the belt was put on properly... even with everything in time now, it’s just a good rule of thumb to let it turn a few times to see that everything lands properly. Hand turning the engine is pretty easy.
I've done the exact same thing with the motor in the car. Little bit harder getting the spring back on the tensioner, but if you come up from under the wheel well, it helps!
@@youcantoo3636 I just replaced my valve cover since it was leaking a bit since the timing belt job. Noticed that the timing belt is loose in some spots, and if i rotate the engine perfectly tight. Is this normal? I followed directions to a T with the tensioner. I found another video and it seems his belt did the same thing, i have been driving it for around 100 miles with no problems, just wanna be sure!
CutchIt yeah there are times where it seems like it’s “loose” but i assure you it’s not. Even in video i can press on the belt a little bit when everything is in... it always trips me out as well. If driving for 100 miles and don’t feel any lose of power or anything than you are probably good!
Para apretar el tornillo? Lo siento mi español no es perfecto. Para apretar el tornillo, se vuelta a la derecha. si quieres saber como vuelta el pulley cuando todo esta areglar, tambien se vuelta al la derecha para ver todo es en tiempo.
Emeterio Arenas lo siento, pero no se este motor. No quiero decir algo mal. Hay muchas páginas con información si buscas en google. Es lo mejor que puedo ofrecer. Lo siento que no tengo mas.
@@youcantoo3636 thnx i was a little confused, cause when i install the tensioner and before torquing it down im able to push the tensioner side to side.!! So what your saying is once i torque the bolt down, its automatically going to adjust itself, because of the spring?
The spring is for the tensioner that’s on the left. The spring runs from tensioner at 2 o clock to a metal “post” with a groove for the spring to stay. I hope that helps!
Ron Parker yes you do. However, you should not start it to check timing. You should manually rotate the engine and feel it and check everything yourself. Rotate at least 5 times and then put all the marks back in time and see if it’s all lined up.
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Thanks for the video it's great to see a young lady that isn't afraid to work on her car! The only suggestion I have is to turn the camera the other way because it would be much easier to see with a full screen. Otherwise, it was good, and explained well.
Finally a video that doesn't have extra nonsense blabing on how to jack up a car and take off a tire... straight to the point and clear visual on what where and how. Thank you! Does make it look easy with the motor out though lol luckily my hands are that of a squid
That 11 o'clock way works like a charm thanks a bunch💪💪👍👍.
Wow amazing. great job young lady
Straight to the point this helped me out a lot even though it’s harder to do inside the engine bay I was able to easily do it with my sons help, thank you for this video
Agreed, it is a bit harder when it’s in the car!
Great easy to follow video, very helpful and very well made. My motor on Ford laser went totally out of timing after I changed the water pump. I followed every step in your clip and now it runs like a dream.
You saved me a lot mucking around, Thanks very much Jennifer. cheers
Used your eleven o'clock technique, worked perfectly. Thanks!
Great video, straight to the point and gave me an idea of what right looks like. I appreciate it
Thank you so much great video
Wow! That's the best explanation I've ever seen- I'm getting ready to redo my timing for the umpteenth time and I know I'll get it right first time now!
Glad I could help!!
Thank you for making this video it helped me out great I'm going to be rebuilding my mortar soon and this is what I needed help with.
good video. everyone forgest to show getting no.1 cylinder to compression stroke aka top dead center (TDC)
Good video, I agree with all except putting the tensioner at 11.00, the spring hasn;t enough pull to get crank to tdc, well mine didn;t work that way, I just had it off about 2mm to the left and when I released the tension it set it perfectly, at least you removed the tensioner not like other vids where they said to just move it over and lock it off, it's not enough that way you wont get the belt on unless you remove it, thanx great help..
If your spring isn’t pulling it all the way back, you probably need to replace your spring. My spring was brand new when i did mine and it worked perfectly. And has for many others. Just a thought. Might want to check in there. A bad spring can jump timing. At least it’s a none interference motor though.
I got my belt on easily with the tensioner being in place..
Gracias por tu video, muy bien explicado. Dios te bendiga!
My question is the tension on the belt produced by the spring on the tensioner or do you have to manually tension it n then set the spring
Hey, I am so sorry I didn’t see this until now! I’m sure you’ve long gotten that figured out, but just in case you still have this question or anyone else for that matter…the spring creates the tension. Nothing has to be manually set like with the other belts on the car. However if you feel tension is off, you made need a new spring.
Hello thank you for posting this video.
Wonder if you made any other work on the Mazda protege I Am having a/ c issues, the resistor and blower fan.
Thank you
I am so sorry I am just seeing this comment. If you haven't fixed it yet, check out harnessedperformance.com/mazda/protege/99-03/electrical/ac-resistor-fix-harness/
He is another Protege guy and he does all sorts of wire fixes, included the A/C problem you and all the rest of us have problems with! His fix is easy and solid and works!
This worked perfectly. Crank and cams lined up. My question is, there’s a tool you can get that holds the cams, using the two grooves on the end of the cams. Basically a square bar that fits in the grooves. When my I and E are lined up, those grooves are vertical. Instead of horizontal. Which would make the tool useless. I tried swapping cam gears. Apparently they’re the same ? Because it’s still where the grooves are vertical. Any clue ?
Which car do you have?
Howdy, there. Great vid. I just got a mazda 626 i bought it with bad water pump so i did both T belt and water pump. Nos thats done ir sounds like a diesel engine, knocks are coming from the T belt área. Any suggestions? Thanks
It’s sounds like your timing might be off a bit. Check again, look closely. Also double check the photo about dowel pin placement and such.
@@youcantoo3636 thanks for tour quick answer. Tourns out ir was thw F tensioner. Not a great design I got to tell.
Luis Naranjo Jordan glad you got it figured out.
Hi
Thanks for not spending 5 minutes on taking the valve cover off.
if i put de crank ton 12 and i install my tensioner the crank risk move to 13?
You want to put it at 11 so that when you put tensioner on it’s moved to 12. But you gotta make sure can gears are locked in time.
You can put it at 12 just make sure it doesnt move and the all belt slack is left for tensioner side
Hi!
I have Mazda 323f VI bj, year 2000.
Will this instuction work for me?
Im not familiar with that engine, but if it's anything like this engine, I would assume so. It's easy enough to give it a shot and try...just make sure to manually turn the engine when your done to make sure it all is good and staying in time.
Quick question I hope it makes sense, so when you turn the camshaft sprocket and the timing mark lines up with the head that means it's on time right? So I guess what I'm trying to say is every time you rotate the sprocket and that Mark lines up with the head that means it's timed right no matter how many times you rotate it?
It does not make sense to me. But the diagram at the beginning of the video shows you where everything should line up each rotation, no matter what.
Sorry for the late response. I missed this one. I hope you got it figured out.
@@youcantoo3636 timed everything but engine would not start.
@@crystrezerex2life hey Frankie, just happened to go through comments and saw I missed your follow up. If you for some reason have not figured it out still, let me know.
@@youcantoo3636 Thnx so much for the reply, yes i was able to figure it out.👍🙏
Muy buen video,gracias por compartirlo .
Rodrigo Navarro Garcias por verlo
So i got the heads resurfaced, i lined lined up all timing marks before removing anything. Now to reinstall, .....i put the camshafts back on and the timing marks are lined up already, do i need to rotate the camshafts, cause if i do one full roatation there just going to come back into alignment again?
I’d most certainly rotate it at least 3 times to make sure the belt was put on properly... even with everything in time now, it’s just a good rule of thumb to let it turn a few times to see that everything lands properly. Hand turning the engine is pretty easy.
perfect! Now I just need to remove the engine to put the tensioner that easy.
I've done the exact same thing with the motor in the car. Little bit harder getting the spring back on the tensioner, but if you come up from under the wheel well, it helps!
Una pregunta funciona para Mazda 626 matzuri año 1998 2.0 L? transmisión automática
No conozco este motor. Lo siento. Pero si sabes que está lo mismo motor del protege, so puedes usar esta manera.
I just put a Dayco timing belt kit on. Is this a good brand for pulley and water pump belt, etc?
That what i normally end up getting. My last water pump lasted almost 80,000 miles. Never had my belt go.
@@youcantoo3636 I just replaced my valve cover since it was leaking a bit since the timing belt job. Noticed that the timing belt is loose in some spots, and if i rotate the engine perfectly tight. Is this normal? I followed directions to a T with the tensioner. I found another video and it seems his belt did the same thing, i have been driving it for around 100 miles with no problems, just wanna be sure!
CutchIt yeah there are times where it seems like it’s “loose” but i assure you it’s not. Even in video i can press on the belt a little bit when everything is in... it always trips me out as well. If driving for 100 miles and don’t feel any lose of power or anything than you are probably good!
CutchIt also make sure you didn’t tightened valve cover down too tight. Bolts don’t require a lot of torque.
Very helpful
I have a same car my problem it doesn't clutch at all I've put the new clutch kit but it doesn't clutch please help
It’s hard to say without being there. But make sure you bled the clutch right. And also adjusted the clutch pedal.
Para que lado se gira el tornillo de la polea .gracias
Para apretar el tornillo? Lo siento mi español no es perfecto. Para apretar el tornillo, se vuelta a la derecha. si quieres saber como vuelta el pulley cuando todo esta areglar, tambien se vuelta al la derecha para ver todo es en tiempo.
thanks for a great vid!
Why won't it let me turn the crank to 11 o'clock it won't let me turn it with my hand at all
Can we use 135 teeth timing belt instead of 133 teeth?
ANGIELOU ASI i don’t know that answer i am sorry. Go to Facebook and find the Mazda protege groups and ask them! Someone will def have the answer.
Did this work? I know it has been 2 years but I have a 2000 Mazda protege with 1.8 engine and a 133 teeth belt didn't fit. I had to use the 135 teeth.
Y el de un Mszda mx5 motor 1,8 año 1999, como va el tiempo
Emeterio Arenas lo siento, pero no se este motor. No quiero decir algo mal. Hay muchas páginas con información si buscas en google. Es lo mejor que puedo ofrecer. Lo siento que no tengo mas.
Good vid
Aj Robbins thank you!!
Gracias por tu ayuda
Tanck you ... is as haima family 1.6 ? Can halpe me
hemo igli si que pass?
Good vid....but the tension of the belt wasnt shown🤔
You can’t adjust tension on a timing belt. The spring on the tensioner is what controls that.
@@youcantoo3636 thnx i was a little confused, cause when i install the tensioner and before torquing it down im able to push the tensioner side to side.!! So what your saying is once i torque the bolt down, its automatically going to adjust itself, because of the spring?
@@crystrezerex2life as long as your spring isn’t bad, yes.
@@youcantoo3636 thnx😎👍
chicks do it best. Guys talk too much. Nice video.
Hey!! Thanks!
Une bonne chose
Where is the correct Spring placement
The spring is for the tensioner that’s on the left. The spring runs from tensioner at 2 o clock to a metal “post” with a groove for the spring to stay. I hope that helps!
Do you need to put the crank pulley back on to see if it will start
Ron Parker yes you do. However, you should not start it to check timing. You should manually rotate the engine and feel it and check everything yourself. Rotate at least 5 times and then put all the marks back in time and see if it’s all lined up.
@@youcantoo3636 yep did all that all marks are good just want to see if it was going to start and check for other problems
Ron Parker cool man. Gotta put crank on because you gotta put accessory belt. That belt runs on the crank also.
I love you
😂 love you too.
MAZDA PROTEGE 1.8 ?
I think they are pretty much the same in regards to timing and part placement.
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