3 Simple Fixes Saved Me £10,000 On A Main Dealer Quote! (Jaguar XK X150)
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Big thanks to Smart Rimz for their help with the wheels, do look them up if you need anything!! www.smartrimz.com/
Tayna Car Batteries are fantastic and supply all my car batteries! Use the code NUMBER27YT for a further 5% off! - www.tayna.co.uk
and do check out Auto Reserve for your Jaguar spares: www.autoreservejaguar.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Jack, next time you polish headlights, I recommend putting masking tape on the paint around the lights first, as it's easy to accidentally polish through the paint on the edges of the panels. it lets you see if you're going past the edge of the light too often, and gives the paint a touch of protection before it starts to burn off.
he's also better spraying them with a few coats of clear coat to seal in the hard work, if he doesn't he will be buffing them on a yearly basis
@@g.d2450 Exactly. If you do not put a UV resistent clear on the "glass," the lamps wil look blind again after a short while.
100% correct
He'll need to polish them every few months they dull up again very quickly.
@@g.d2450 or buy a headlight polish , every time you clean the car use that .
The reason Jag would have quoted £2600 for the subframe will be mainly labour. In this situation you really need to take the subframe out of the car, remove all rust down to bare metal and then paint/waxoyl it while its out of the car. What you've done is basically put a rust proof layer on top of rust. This will stop new moisture getting into the subframes metal, but it won't stop the rust you left from spreading underneath the coating. So it will look all nice and new, but the metal will continue to deteriorate.
A main dealer is going to replace old with new. I doubt they would do a Jack on it, plus they have to guarantee the work ....
@@Lookup2Wakeup Fair enough, I got a quote for my 370Z rear subframe in similar condition and they were going to restore instead of replace it, hence the assumption
@@SuicidalHAMMERx Probably depends if the part is available in a reasonable time and at a reasonable cost if they offer to repair it or not.
@@SuicidalHAMMERx Oh okay, good point. I suppose Jack would need to clarify with Jaguar what the quote consisted of.
@@Lookup2Wakeupthe quote was for a new subframe, but what he's done will be perfectly fine for years now. I did similar to my Polo 10 years ago and it's still good now, although I did use Hammerite smooth black.
Personally I'd have put a neutraliser on the rusty sub-frame to prevent corrosion coming back under the waxoil. I also always put copper ease on wheel bolts and the hub facing surfaces; does make life easier thereafter. Looks like it's turning into a really usable and still gorgeous car.
Yes… wasted opportunity to paint on some Jenolite or Kurust…. would have preserved the metalwork much better…
I like vactan it gives good long lasting results over rust and followed up by paint as it's self priming. And for extra duration lanoguard a couple of months later. I tested vactan on a old rusty shovel and left it outside with a coat of enamel paint as it isn't UV resistant and 12 months later and no rust. It's a summer job as ambient temperature has to be above 18 degrees when treated.
Subframe off the car, and then powdercoat would be my route. This depends on the price of a new subframe tho. The rubbers also need to be replaced at one point, this might be a way of pushing the subframe off job forward for some time. I just rebushed the frame on my e32 beemer and it's a lot of work.. Not a driveway winter job at all
Be careful putting copper ease on bolts that need torquing up,can lead to over tightening the fasteners,better to use normal lubricant
Yes, anti-seize on the lug nuts, judiciously! Can you obtain POR-15 there?
The headlights will need a coat of UV resistant lacquer to last, else you'll need to polish them again in 12-18 months as they will go cloudy again. No biggie, but worth getting them coated in my personal opinion.
Great advice and was looking into exactly this kind of option!
Bodyshop would coat them with 2k laquer for not to much money.But after polishing give them a good coat of wax ,keep on top of them and they should last
2pac or 2K? Could be brought in a tin and done yourself@@LOTPOR0402
@@Number27 I have had good results wrapping them with special headlight wrap on a W211 Merc. Clear coat(paint) will distort your beam, i wouldn't do that. Special coating as factory did seems to be hard to find.
@@djpierre4613 I have clearcoated many restored plastic lenses. The key is to use an airbrush rather than a can of spray paint. On a macro level, you can see rattle-can applications are actually larger paint droplets that coat in uneven layers, whereas a good airbrush technique applies the paint as a fine mist. No lens distortion that way. Or at least not in any measurable way.
Jaguar wheel bolts breaking is a common problem because people invariably overtighten them. The correct torque is 125Nm but this feels loose as there is less resistance from the bolts as they have flat seats with a rotating captive washer rather than tapered seats that most people are used to doing up, so they are tempted to give them an extra tweak which causes the bolts to stretch. You could have saved some money calling in the pro's though Jack, as a drill and a 20mm hole saw is all that is needed to cut the flat seat off and release the wheel without damaging it. Also, bad idea to use anti-seizing compound on the stud threads as this also leads to over-torquing as the slip from the compound will cause a torque wrench to under-read and also exacerbate the low-resistance feel of the correct torque setting.
I also refurbed a similarly crusty looking Jaguar XF subframe but I did it off the car. Ground-off the worst of the rust with a disk and spinning wire brush then dipped the whole thing in phosphoric acid to neutralise any rust I couldn't see. Then gave it two coats of acid-etch primer followed by two coats of chassis black. The factory coating is just a thin film of black paint straight on to the metal that offers zero protection after 5-6 years and then the deterioration accelerates.
I pretty much agree with everything you say, except regarding the wheel nuts. I have seen this so many times - if no grease of any kind is put on the wheel nut threads, or studs, then, if the wheel is not removed for a long period, it is inevitable that they will corrode, and seize up, due to water ingress. There are different kinds of things you could use, like graphite grease, but I have always used waterproof grease, and then checked my wheel nuts regularly to make sure they are tight. I totally get what you're saying about a lubricant throwing off the torque wrench setting, yes, that's possible, but a small amount of over tightening is a small price to pay to prevent seizure, which is a potential nightmare, if only discovered far from home with a punctured/wrecked tyre.
A good torque wrench is worth its weight in gold, and people need to learn to trust the reading.
There must surely be another way - some form of Loctite, which is designed to repel moisture, but is easily 'broken' with hand tools. It would do the job of preventing seizure, but without actually being a lubricant. Perhaps this would affect the torquing a bit, but less than something which is actually a grease.
It's great to see you back on the spanners, Jack! As much as I love your reviews, this content is what it's all about 👍
Agreed👍
Also agreed
In part I agree, but I have to say Jack has some real talent communicating to us the character of a vehicle. He is one of only a very few I'd listen to. I loved hearing his comments and real enjoyment in the Europa and some of the Lancias, Fiats and Alfas. Really got it spot on.
yup quality VID !!
If you have to attack the lights again, please use tape around the surrounding bodywork.
I would've personally put some rust converter on the subframe as all you've done with the wax oil is lock in the rust which will make it worse long term. I see it all the time. You need to get rid of the rust first.
I was going to say that just before I read you comment. I applied just waxoyl to my caravan chassis and the rust just formed underneath it and the coating just dropped off after about a year. I then used kurust followed by hammerite followed by waxoyl and that’s doing fine after four years so far.
Waxoyl has built in rust inhibitors
@@user-rf9me7xm1w yeah it makes a right mess. I never understand why people put this straight over rust.
@@jimmyjt16 thats how its designed, it has rust inhibitors in it
You on,y need one hole allowing oxygen in and it continues ,Quie a distance Preperation on any surface is key to a job that lasts and does what it’s meant to do .
Great result and just shows how much you can save on dealer quotes. However, I think the subframe refurb is a bit misleading, as you've only really (so it would seem) got the crap off and sealed the bits you can physically get to. You would really need to drop it and take off all the ancillary bits to do it properly. Just sayin'.
You attempted fixing things, whilst the dealer quoted you to replace faulty items, that's what main dealers do. they quoted mainly replacement not repair or refurbish.
I also had a wheel nut break on me, 2015 jag XE, I saw a youtuber use a hole saw fractionally larger than the stud to cut through the remains of the nut and it worked for me. Nut excess came away, wheel slid over what remains on the stud, using mole grips to unwind the remainder off the stud. 10 minute job.
Wire wheel on a rotary should knock down all the flaky rust. Quicker and cleaner too!
Jack, it was a good 'temporary' fix on the rear subframe - but on my 1996 XK8 (which rot a lot more than the X150's) I removed my rear subframe and for a piece of steel that had lived under the car for over a quarter of a century it was surprisingly good. However I removed the orignal paint and rust spots, wire wheeled, applied a chemical rust proofer and primer and then two coats of POR15. I also did this to the support brackets and struts. Hopefully it should last another couple decades!
Hello Jack. Great to see you getting your hands dirty again! For the subframe, or just rusty parts in general, a rust converter is a great step before wax oil treatment. In theory, encasing the part in wax oil should inhibit the rusting process, but if/when the wax oil chips away, you're back to square one. A UV clear coat on the headlights will keep them looking clear for longer.
This is what you do best Jack. I do like the reviews but this is your real strength. Very entertaining and informative content.
As a proud, Canadian, owner of an '07 XKR, I appreciate your content, Jack! Looking forward to more! Thank you!
I’m glad you got the wheel sorted, but this happened to me. Easy fix is to buy a 20mm hole cutter and put it on your drill, it fits over the sheared nut and when you drill it out to the spinning ring collar so won’t damage your wheel. It takes 30 seconds to drill off. Very easy fix. 👍🏻
It's funny over here in the states same thing? I drive a porsche and a Volvo. once warranty is up I rarely ever go to the them the manufacturing dealer. they've priced themselves pretty much out of everybody's pocket. . It's nice when a tech hangs around long enough to get their certification, then starts his own shop for half of what the dealers charge. Love the jag
I really enjoy this sort of video. It's what got me hooked back in the Ferrari repair days. The craziest estimate you quoted from Jag has the be the headlamp work. So easy (and cheap) to just routinely buff out the headlamp housing. Keep it coming!
My wife's Honda Jazz has the same stud and bolt design and I managed to shear two at the same time whilst attempting to fit the winter tyres and rims a few years ago. The first one I did whilst trying to loosen the third of five, the second one when refitting the second bolt I'd originally removed! At that point I had to walk away, count to ten and take few deep breaths!
Nice work, congrats. You might want to lacquer the headlights with Meguiar's headlight protection or whatever they have in the UK to protect them.
I'm a panel beater and painter, but I quite enjoy mopping up headlights aswell. Quick n easy, and the results are satisfying.
Nice job! I was suggesting to check the battery in your first video for the weird errors, I'm happy to see that this was the issue 😉
Hello Again, I had the same very common issue with the wheel nuts on XF, two snaped, cost £40 to remove what was left, the guy who removed them recommended new nuts, I bought a complete set of 20 x M21 solid polished stainless nuts (which better suit the car) for £28 delivered, no more problems. Regards, RichardA.
Taking over from Wheeler dealer's now Jack. Great job on the Jag. Your absolutely right about tooling...Its when you hit an obstacle that you hadn't factored in, and don't have the kit to hand 😢
Its given me the heads up on wheel nuts...Got an 02 plate Mondeo that needs the front discs and pads sorting. Job for the Xmas break, parts are waiting to be fitted.
Thing is it helps if you know someone with a lift ,working underneath these cars on axle stands in december Is no party
I agree absolutely 👍
A good seam sealer is 'Wurth'. You can use an ordinary mastic gun to apply it but there is a gun the uses compressed air. It's a 'wet on wet' product so you can paint spray it when it is tacky. I have to say I think your silicon will be fine but just for reference I would mentioned 'Wurth'. You did a good job on the headlights but personally I would have put masking tape on the bodywork so you don't hit the paint. Anyway none of that is meant as a negative comment. Those wheels were a bit pear shaped so good that they are now straight. We know that a fair part of the Jaguar estimate would be labour costs and they would of course have used new parts so you can see where the money goes. Overall a Great job (or jobs) done Jack and good that you had access to a ramp which made life easier. 👍👍
Thank you for this update! Great progress and information. 🙂
Great video. Love the look of that car. I've fond memories of driving around in my fathers Jaguars.. every trip felt like an event.
Hello, for the rusty rear subframe. Clean all with wire brush and other means as good as it gets. Then usage Unitor Metalbrite, see instructions and follow. Then go with Apexior paint and follow makers recommendations. All the best.
Well done on this one Jack. great car by the looks of it and what a fabulous saving on the main dealer quote, hopefully a lot of Jag owners will see this and get an independent to do their work even if the owners are unable or unwilling to carry out the work themselves.
I feel your pain with those wheel nuts! - I had the same on my XJ8. The key is to replace any that have damaged caps (if they don't fall out of the 6-point socket under their own weight they are distorted), lots of copper grease every time they come off and NEVER use impact guns or 12-point sockets on them!
On my Jag XJ I replaced them all with Toyota wheel nuts. They are significantly stronger and fit perfectly.
Amazing job indeed. Only thing i will do also is to get a can or two of cavity wax spray and go through all the holes of the subframe to make sure al the inside is wet😊
The subframe/suspension “fix” is very temporary.
Not bad to do and it will buy you some time definitely but I would have removed the thing and either wirewheeled it or better sandblasted it. Then painted it properly and coating it after that.
Agreed l too would have removed the sub frame
& would have blasted &
had it powder coated 😮
( note you didn't do the
frame on the body side
so the rust will eat through it 😭😭🙄🙄
"They wanted £2600 for sorting out the subframe so I saved £2600 by not sorting out the subframe." Thanks Jack, nice one 😂
You know it makes sense....😂
If you don't already, I suggest only using single hex sockets on those kind of wheel nuts. Double hex ones can damage the this shells and they turn or get stuck in the socket.
Found this out the hard way!!
Similarly I'd avoid using an impact wrench to undo or tighten them as it will break them with no warning. Use a socket and bar to undo and a torque wrench to tighten.
The air gun - what a horrible thing to do to your wheel-nuts!
It was a strong arm and socket snapped mine. I'd have thought the gun would sit on nut better but I'm no pro 🤷♂️
It's exactly what all tyre replacement companies use!
@@dieselfan7406
Well done Jack! I love seeing the economy minded approach to repairs!
Great Job Jack! I'm not sure if it's true with the 4.2 cars, but with the 5.0 cars you need to have the new battery programed to the car so that it will charge correctly. Battery issues can cause endless headaches with these beauties, so just make sure that new battery will last. Cheers
Great channel Jack! Painting over rust is never a good idea though. Moisture will get underneath the paint and be trapped, which accelerates decay. Just the Lanoguard would be a better idea if you want a quick fix 🤘
I learned to brush or spray some rust converter on things like this subframe before putting another material on top. I did not really believe in this stuff before, but is amazingly efficient.
Merry Xmas Jack. Thanks for all the great content and here is hoping for more in 24.
I had the same wheel nut issue on my XJ8. I used a perfectly sized hole-saw on a drill. It took hours.
Also ALL the old wheel nuts need replacing with NEW one-piece wheel nuts. If they are the same as the 2004 XJ8 it’s a fairly standard size, and much cheaper than even used OEM.
Very nice video on the spanners there Jack, and a great saving too!
Tremendous video, I love these kind of DIY fixes
Main dealers don't want to fix cars out of warranty, they just want to sell you a new one! Hence the walk past the latest models to the service centres. Great advice for you with the comments you have received.
I used Neutrarust 661 on my T5 subframe and it provides excellent aesthetic improvements before applying Lanoguard
Dealing with rusty , seized nuts is part of the pain/satisfaction on working on your own old cars .My sons BMW E46 318i, needed the starter motor replacing, whoever did the job previously totally knackerd the E12 bolts, took us 3 hours to get the starter motor of, very poor access due to the bellhousing. I bought new bolts from the dealer and had the new starter motor fitted in 15 minuets !!
Absaloutly brilliant video jack well done on fixing it so cheap ❤👍 I don't know how they can justify that price brilliant
I had an E39 BMW with "milky" headlamp covers that we polished out.I read somewhere that toothpaste works!! Can,t believe what Jag quoted you;well done for sorting your car for a fraction of that!
My Range Rover P38 had similar bolts. They could swell under the outer cover. Fortunately I never broke one! You have a great result on those repairs - lots of reasons to feel good about it.
Thanks chap!! Yes.. the RRs are infamous for it too!
I think the Jaguar quote on the subframe was reasonable given the repair they would make and time involved. The 4000 for the headlights is ridiculous though! Especially when you fixed them for 15 quid! Even if they had to put new units in which i suspect they would have given the price thats a crazy amount.
22 mm hole saw will take enough off the broken wheel nut for the wheel to slip off. Just take your time and plenty of lubricant.You can then remove the broken nut with a pair of mole grips. I had to do 3 on my XF a couple of years ago. I used a Starret hole saw. If the cap comes off you need an 18mm socket. It’s now possible to buy nuts that are machined from solid.
All hatchbacks are prone to boot leaks once the sealant starts to crack where the roof meets the c pillar. Seems to be the last thing people look at and yet it's one of the most common faults. Nice video. Cheers
Jack, I feel your pain with the wheel nuts. I managed to muller the locking key on my Volvo XC90 so I ended up getting a garage to chisel out the wheel bolts and I replaced them with ordinary wheel bolts from the dealer for a fiver each. I was in a similar situation with my 2009 Mercedes C200. It went to a local dealer to have the rear subframe replaced under warranty (a common problem with the W204 C-Class) and when they inspected the entire car they found quite a few other issues. I fixed most of those other issues myself and come MoT time it passed with only 3 advisories. Really, you should've applied some rust treatment to the subframe but what you did is better than nothing.
Hi Just found your channel (Great Stuff) but like others have said you have only cleaned the parts you can get at, removing the subframe would have been the only true way of knowing the full story. Great to keep theses machines on the road! Thanks 👍
Look up Bilt Hamber Anti Corrosion line (UK COmpany). They do a sprayable and a gel-brush-on rust treatment. Just that I noticed there were parts you couldn't get to with a brush in your 'after' pics. The sprayable one you mix with water and literally spray liberally over the entire area and let it do it stuff.
Large cast alloy wheels are always likely to buckle as the material is inherently soft (that's why they straighten easily). Forged wheels are far stronger.
I have had all these issues with my '06 Aston Vantage. Well worth sorting!
Probably should have used kurust first to turn the rust to good metal then underseal or wax oyl. Good vid though.
Yes, there are several good anti rust paints that would have been a good first step. Perhaps I should also be concerned about the prep of the upper sides of the subframe that can't be seen. That's where all the mud sits. Lanoguard was mentioned but not seen. Fluid Film is a bit thicker and maybe better for those hidden areas. Do those wheel nuts have to be that complicated? I've never seen anything like those. Alternates?
Jack this happened to my XK as well. I drilled out the broken stud then replaced the front wheel bearings which are likely worn anyway. They are 90 bucks and includes new studs..
I really appreciate video's such as this that shows what you can do and should do in terms of not being ripped off by stealerships. Learning new skills, most garadges swap parts, it cost less to do that than investigate the issues but it comes at a mighty cost! I do not mind paying, but when they do not find the issue and still charge i find it difficult to trust and sadly this was the case for years until i learned to repair my own car after watching others on youtube - so thank you Number 27 - hope you have a good xmas!
“get someone else to do it” is a good plan as you seem to be like me, every job, which seems so simple and straightforward, always ends up being a complicated nightmare!!
Good to see you wrenching again Brother Jack!! Please continue to demonstrate that know how like you do!! Love your XK!!!
Looks great job you’ve done so far Jack!
I had those bolts on my Discovery. I changed them all for solid stainless steel ones I would definitely recommend.
Nothing like fixing your car on a driveway in winter time! I've got to do both front springs on my car, hopefully it stays above zero although I have been known to tinker in -10 lol
Great video - enjoyed it. Regarding those wheel nuts, those chrome covers over the steel nut will just rust again on the replacement nuts. Get some Toyota/Lexus wheel nuts instead, they're one piece, so you never get a problem with them, and they're exactly the same size. Do get genuine Toyota tho' - cheap Ebay copies will rust externally and look bad, although they still won't cause any problem.
My goodness this is getting interesting. Not trying to nitpick your hard work on top of filming. Was the top of the rear suspension as nasty as the bottom? Being here in the states, your products used to do repairs was interesting. As for our use it may have been POR-15 in a kit with all the needed treatments included. Not cheap but works like a charm. Anti size would have been useful, when used sparingly. Keeping wet and dry torques in mind. Having a car with 1 year only wheels you're getting the wheels trued is so much better than throwing on some wild aftermarket wheel. I wish I had a wheel repair that was at those prices. Mine were 250.00 each. But worth every penny when done right the first time. I'm looking forward to your further adventures with this car, not to mention when the Pantera unveiling after being set free from customs. Keep em coming and THANKS for sharing. CHEERS
Great job! My London Bus route was the No 27, out of Stamford Brook garage (V) Chalk Farm to Richmond
Cool! Thanks for watching 🙏
Great video, What compound did you use on the headlights. Thanks
Your enthusiasm really is apparent in this video.
No doubt that whopping saving might have something to do with it but now in theory you have a well sorted car for reasonable money.
Really great to see this channel getting loads of hits these days! Used to watch back at the start and I always knew you had something! Honestly you could be TV!
Thats extremely kind, thank you and glad you’re still watching!!
I would have liked to have seen how Smart Rims straighten out the wheels for you.
Unfortunately we didn’t have the time for me to stick around and film that. Perhaps for a future episode?
Love these vids and now really want an XK (maybe to replace my XF). Have had problems with leaks like this in the past, best thing I have found is Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure (no association). Has worked wonders and lasted very well.
That " bolt" you were holding in your hand is actually a nut,the bit you sheared on the car is called a stud.
Years ago I used to be called a stud. Now I'm old, I tend to be called a nut ... 😂
At last - massive success with one your car buying experiences - fabulous. I like jaguar cars but not ideal where i live.
Perhaps others will form an orderly queue to buy this marvelous motoring experience from you?
Please do not take this too negatively, until today I'd never heard of the channel and i am now subscribed.
But when a channel does a budget build it's relatable. It helps us proles feel like it's something we can achieve.
The second someone does something as a gesture of good will that you would've paid for, that relatability is hurt.
Although I am glad you still added that money to the list at the end. There's a lot of channels that don't add it in. Still an amazing saving.
Seam sealer very good at fixing gaps between panels when you have leaks in boot.
Had a 2010 XFR. Had wheel bolts sheer of several times, I took of all the locking nuts off as they are a nightmare to get out if they break, also the screen locking out is common. The battery should sort that. Apart from that was a nice car to own.
Great job Jack! BTW, I hope you were not relying solely on that trolley jack when fixing your tie rods - I couldn't see any axle stands being used?
Jack, there's a product out of Canada called Krown rust proofing, Mike, on Britannia Restorations TH-cam channel has done tests on metal parts left out in the elements for years and it is spot on for places where you cannot clean rust right off. It has excellent "wick in" qualities and soaks into the surface to hold rusting at its current stage. Sprays on easily and once the surface stuff is dry it doesn't run off. Fish oil will provide similar protection to already rusty surfaces, (and your cat will love it).😂
You've done a good job saving all that loot, the Jag looks really nice and I should say, "your cat also looks good on the Cat".😊
yep, we've been using Krown on our Canadian cars for many years and it does a truly marvelous job - $150CDN per year on my RAV4, less 10% CAA discount, adds thousands of kms and trade-in value to the car.
Diy on a car is very satisfying. I have done some things just because I thought cost was much more than it should have been. Nice work Jack.
You certainly nailed down the issues.A Jaguar XK and a Pantera are two great sports cars to have.
I love this hands on kind of content Jack...... I find working on cars interesting and therapeutic, in most cases 😂. Excellent stuff as always buddy 👍
Thank you buddy and really appreciate that you’ve become a member too.. have a great Xmas old chap!!
@@Number27 you deserve the support jack! Membership is a small price to pay for all the entertainment you've given me! Merry Christmas to you too buddy ⛄👍
They wanted £2060 for new discs and pads on my Discovery Sport.
It didn't really need new discs, they said they just prefer to fit them(done less than 40,000 miles at the time).
I did it with top quality pads and discs for £350. I thought since I was saving so much, I'd do the discs as well, but really maybe I shouldn't have.
Imo you should have dropped the subframe and prepped both sides properly and not used that black gunk but it’s only my opinion
Had a few jags over the years first job has always been to replace all wheel nuts .
Can also vouch for tanya batterys. Next day delivery and normally cheapest great service.
Awesome stuff 👏 love this kind of resourceful content. It makes owning exciting cars like this feel reasonable 🤙
Few years ago we were quoted 2 grand for replacement shock absorbers on a jaguar . The mechanic doing the mot work said they are the same as a Ford mondeo, but irdering them wouldn't be easy as you need a reg number of a mondeo that the same shocks are on , so took some pictures and went hunting at the auctions, found a car , ordered the parts and for 600 all in including labour got it sorted and through the retest.
What a result, lovin your work, makes me think about getting a XK, clearly not has a financial headache as one might expect!
I think if you’re careful when you buy they’re great cars!
As others have already suggested, the best way to deal with the subframe issues would be to remove it from the car. I would then remove all the loose rust, and treat/convert the remainder. Next I would brush paint it with a rust inhibiting paint - lots of it.
The problem I see with products such as Waxoil is that they don’t last, but they do make it impossible to use alternative paint solutions later. But if you’re selling the car, maybe Waxoil is okay.
Interesting video. Those leaks are annoying on so many levels, and not something you expect to find on an upmarket production car.
Thank you for sharing.
Peace
I just finished watching Ed China using a CRC rust removing product, that would have worked a treat on the subframe.
A while back I was tempted by either the Jag, early Aston or the Maserati,(the 3200 with cool rear lights but most problems)... All under 10k... What put me off was running costs... I could afford it at the time, and am annoyed with myself for being a stinge.
I'm very pleased you picked this up, I'm sure I preferred the Jag to the rest and I think I would have been right and I was a sniff away from getting one - I think its the best car of the three for many reasons.
I ended up getting a sensible ish Mazda RX8 - Which I loved. I guarantee that - which people turn their noses up to - will age well in the design dept. I think it looks amazing and unique. It is dynamically wonderful too. A great driving car.
They are very interesting and surprisingly practical for a coupe too. The rotary engine though is a labour of love so I would hardly describe it as sensible although compared to a V8 Jag or Aston probably is. Rx8 may end up a modern classic though.
I think it will gain in reputation, just for the body design which was much criticized - Remember it is in fact a 4 door saloon! I think it said so on the pink slip (or is it green now?) It has lots of little design cues pointing toward the rotary inside and out. It wasn't sensible, and drank petrol probably as much as that Jag! @@paultasker7788
You are lucky you’re in the UK. Jags are relatively common. Here in the US cars like yours are somewhat rare and parts,new or used are pricy. You have a gem there. Enjoy it.
40/50 years ago it was common for cars to allow water ingress, my old SD1 was always filling up! But I find it hard to believe that in this day and age most manufacturers still haven't eliminated the problem. Great video though Jack, very entertaining 👏🏻 and I'm so pleased that you saved yourself a small fortune.
They don’t want them to last
Some brands are better than others. It proves to me how shoddy executive brands are. They're all flash and marketing.
The garage quote to fix the headlights was hilarious & the job you did on rear subframe will be sufficient for a few years at least
Overall a great result. Your enthusiastic is infectious. Can’t wait to see you fixing up your American 🇺🇸 import.
Can’t wait either… taking ages to sort out getting it back here!!
Same experience in the Netherlands: some 15 years ago I had a Daimler Super V8. At around 120k km’s the automatic gearbox broke down. The official Jaguar dealer quoted more than EUR10k for a new gearbox (coming from Mercedes Benz by the way). I turned to a specialist in restoring gearboxes. They repaired the box for EUR 2400 excl VAT.
In other words: never ever go to the Jag dealer, unless you enjoy being ripped off!!
Problems with a rusty subframe are best fixed by a serious attempt to clean with a power wire brush then apply phosphoric acid liberally to all areas. Next morning wash with soapy water then dry with a heat gun and apply zinc primer as soon as the metal is dry then finish with a heavy coat of a bituminous paint. If you are really clever and plan to keep the car for a while then consider fitting zinc anodes to the underside of the car.
Suggest rust converter on the subframe after wire brushing, but it’s too late now. Good luck.
The quality of your videos never disappoint Jack, I've lost count the years I've been watching now.