Yes that is bad information. I do repair vintage and non-computerized sewing machines. I even have several that I fix up and I donate to people people who are wanting to get into sewing but don't necessarily have the funds to buy their first sewing machine or not sure what to do. No strings attached. It's theirs to keep do what they want with but I do fix and have always fixed vintage sewing machines. They're not hard. They're easy
Oh yeah, gimmie all those old Kenmores you want. I have 40 sewing machines, from treadles to harness stitchers and the one that lives in the middle of my craft room is an 80's version, 8 stitch freearm Kenmore.
i have some alternate advice - if you enjoy tinkering and don't know where to start with sewing projects at all, but want to at least try but have the space for a 20-35kg machine - i recommend a vintage singer machine (1900s-1950s) hand crank or treadle. They're made to last and still have a big community who collect and maintain vintage machines, and share knowledge on being able to maintain and fix them up at home. most of the popular models will only do a straight stitch, and sometimes with no reverse, but there's no computer board to burn out, and you can go at a safe and slow speed with a hand crank. they're absolute beasts in terms of what thick fabrics you can throw at them, and its much harder to mess up a mechanical machine than a modern electric. there's a large abundance of parts out there and feet, and it's easy to check out what model u have, and a bit more about it, based on their serial numbers. they start at absolutely DIRT cheap to buy, and often given away for the convenience of people not wanting their heavy inherited machine in their way anymore. It's a safe alternative to jumping in too deep and messing up someone else's machine, and you can see what every part is doing because things like top tension are now hidden behind dials and plastic. if you're environmentally concious the lack of electricity is awesome, but you can also fit motors on most models, or find factory motorised models even. If you don't use the machine for a while, they also look great on display. my "youngest" machine model is from the early 60's - i finally wanted to try out a macine with a zigzag stitch though so bought a budget singer from around 2011. The experience is night and day - it feels like sewing with a toy in comparison and probably will struggle with thicker fabrics and layers. ...Meanwhile i've seen vintage singers demo'ed sewing through 4-6 layers of leather, and in one instance, an empty food tin! - so it really depends what experience you want out of sewing and what you start to enjoy about it :D i will defo enjoy trying out my "modern" singer and using the pattern range, but will always fall back on my vintage singer for rugged use, quilting, and anything crazy that would absolutely obliterate a modern machine like non clothing for art projects
I love it. I hope more people will jump on your challenge of starting with a vintage mechanical machine. I’ve never had a treadle but have always wanted one.
@@fashionrebelution ooo do take the plunge whenever you're feeling brave or the oppurtunity pops up! the singer models 99, 15, 185, 201 are all easy to find and the most produced, and will have a tonne of resources Alex Askaroff is a veteran in the scene and has a great YT channel where he talks about a tonne of models in detail, and also runs a fantastic site "sewalot" wheres he's written a tonne on vintage machines, as well as books, and on other makes and models beyond the Singer. They're easy to date with their serial numbers too, so finding out the model is also easy as well as buying feet in bulk, etc Word of warning - your first won't be your last if you buy one! they are strangely addictive! 😀
I love my 1914 Jones Family vibrating shuttle hand crank machine, it's my go-to because all my electric machines are ticking me off right now! It did take two of us an entire evening of googling antique machines to figure out what it actually was, all it said on it was "Victoria" and "made in England", my friend finally found out that the giant screw on the top is what denotes it to be a Jones... turns out just about every machine manufacturer at the time made a Victoria around then... but once I was able to figure out what the heck it WAS, I found a free PDF download of the manual and was good to go. I also have a Minnesota A treadle machine but it's proven to be more challenging to determine its actual make, as Sears-Roebuck had at least three different manufacturers make them and I'll probably need to deep-dive into some of the forums to figure out exactly what I've got and exactly when it's from, though I have ruled out it being older than my Jones hand crank by a specific thing in its decals... Looks like it shares a lot of parts with the Jones hand crank though, the bobbins and bobbin winder assemblies look identical, and I'm hoping they both use the same kind of round shank needles too. When I take my next machine in, I'll get it a band so I can actually try using it. I have access to a 50's Singer with the motor mounted on the back and the light lights up but the motor's not enough to crank the machine over so I'll also ask them if that motor is worth repairing. Hand cranking it wasn't terribly difficult and its tension is still fine (there was still a piece of fabric in it) so I need to make a decision by Xmas if I'm going to rescue it from the garage it's in at the moment...
My Janome's are all from the 90"s and a couple from the early 2000's. All in perfect working order. They only thing different is the upgraded casing that modernised them
Great video!!! You are so right about people trying to sell you an expensive machine that could be way overkill for the beginner. What I have found is that the vintage metal body machines are better made and can be cleaned, oiled and maintained by the user. The plastic ones have clips the hold it together that are easy to break. The cost to service them is sometimes as much as a new machine. I think that if a person is expecting to make bags and/or quilts, those are 2 hobbies that can push a machine to its limits due to the multiple thick layers. In those instances, more care should be made to get something that will last and like you said, test out a used machine to see if it works for your needs. TFS
You are so right that plastic is very inferior. For most folks just learning and reworking clothes I still wouldn’t pass up a really inexpensive machine with plastic partsif it’s in good working order.
Like others, I'm blessed to have my Mom's old machine, a Singer 301A. Great strong machine. I do also have a 'younger' Singer with zigzag and stretch stitches. It's supposed to have an auto-threader which i haven't tried yet.
I bought a Singer and it was a complete waste of money. It had multiple defects and Singer would not give me an exchange. I did some research and learned that decades ago, Singer got bought out by private equity and their quality has been subpar ever since. I decided to invest in a Bernette Academy and I am incredibly happy with it. I love your advice about borrowing a machine before purchasing one.
@fashionrebelution Thank you. No, it's still collecting dust in my home, lol. But I bought myself a Bernette Academy and I couldn't be happier. It's really highlighted to me what a bad machine the singer was. At first, I thought it was just me because I was new to sewing. I'll never buy a piece of machinery that only comes with a 90-day warranty again. That's definitely a red flag. ;)
I got a very nice Kenmore 158.1760 for really cheap because it was locked up would not would not move. I was able to clean out the thread and it worked perfect. Worked beautifully. I still have that machine today. It is my go-to machine when I'm not using my 201
Thanks! I would add that even if you can afford a new machine, an older one that was common enough to have replacement parts easily accessing is a better investment. They are more durable, and buying used is always good for the environment.
Whaaaaat...don't spend over $75.00 for a used machine? I bought a used Janome for $135.00 off the secondary market. It's a $2,000 machine brand new. One of the local quilt shops had the same used model for sale a year later for $1,500 and that doesn't include tax. I would have been stupid to pass that up.
That makes great sense if you are reselling it. For most beginners they can get everything they need for less. Doesn’t mean you can’t buy something nicer.
For us sewing machine hoarders I have several I bought at thrift stores not knowing if they work. But I always go back to my brother or my babylock because of their control. Speed control is key for beginners when sewing round edges like scallops and such. As for the auto threading, I often use a heavy weight thread when making backpacks or purses. I have had no issues with the auto threading.
I have a vintage toy machine, that stitches a sort of chain stitch, and it's fairly ok. I managed to make some poorly constructed doll clothes. (I had NO IDEA about correct garment construction at age 12 😂)
@@epicnamepwns1242 well done. They can work. I think it takes a bit of patience and a not critical eye. For me sewing one handed without a surface is just so hard. I’m sure most kids can do it because they have no expectations.
If you are taking sewing lessons at your local uni, you can also make use of the uni sewing machines. Another thing you could do, is find one second hand. Second hand you could easily get away with just a few dollars instead of a few hundred dollars for a new one. You can always get a brand new one later.
I was lucky to get my mom's machines. Kenmore 158.1914 with all of the attachments and cams, Singer 201 from the 50's and a white superlock 4 thread serger. Ren Fair costumes are pretty easy with this setup. Corsets are still a struggle though, going to thick on your fabric will make a nightmare.
Try shimming your presser foot in back and you should be able to sew those thicker fabrics just fine. Anything that can fit under the foot you can probably sew. I show how to shim things in the denim project I mentioned.
I live on a small Scottish island. During lockdown I decided to buy a sewing machine. I watched lots of TH-cam videos, and everything I’ve made has turned out great. I started off with masks, then little zippered cosmetic bags. Then I discovered Tilly & the Buttons book Stretch. Lots of clothing items using stretch fabric. I’m still using my basic Janome, it’s not a computerized machine, but really all you need is a straight stitch, and a zigzag stitch.
I love my Mom's post-war Japanese made Admiral sewing machine, a Singer knockoff. I learned to sew on it and find it easy to maintain. If we needed to, we could fix it ourselves which we couldn't if it were computerized. My sister had a fancy newer machine and I helped her find an Admiral like Moms. And it was the Deluxe model. She loves it, too.
This is all sound advice. The one thing I'd add is about sewing leather - Garment weight leather is one thing and what this video is talking about. Belts, holsters, wallets, etc are a whole different thing. Now you're in Walking Foot Industrial or even Harness Stitcher territory - And no, the walking foot attachment for your domestic doesn't count.
@@fashionrebelution Well, to a point. The challenge is clearance under the presser foot. I know of people what will use maybe a 201 to pre-punch a single layer belt. Much more just won't fit.
With a 70s era Kenmore, you get best of both worlds - an all metal machine with more modern stitches that do come in handy, like a blind stitch for hems and a pretty good buttonholer, and a free arm for sleeves. They're also ugly as sin, so people will typically sell them cheap. No one values them who doesn't already know vintage machines. I've got 13+ machines at the moment (ranging from 1905 to 2017), and I'll admit my Kenmore 148 series has a very high quality feel to it-- once I got the tension problems figured out (which were not insubstantial). It cost me $20 on shopgoodwill. So to anyone starting out, they are probably the best bet, if you can find one serviced and ready to go (and if it comes with a manual... some of the dials are tricky to figure out).
Sorry about your first experience with the “We don’t fix sewing machines older than 5 years old “ people. I have a wonderful repair lady, Katie, at Crown Vac & Sew in Lake Elsinore, Calif. She takes care of my 3 Singer machines. The oldest is a “Red Eye” from 1911. The middle one is a 401A, made in 1958. The newest is a Tradition from 2009. The good repair shops are still out there.
ive never paid for a sewing machine, ive gotten a few for free. and i have 2 janome sergers that i paid 30 and 50 (cad) for. there are really good prices out there if you look. a friend gave me a sewing machine she said was broken. it wasnt. either the needle was seated wrong or she was using the wrong kind of bobbin. i have an ancient kenmore that was my moms and that machine is great except it now runs crazy slow. so i need to see if i can fix it.
It might just need some oil. Can you hear the belt slipping? Worst case you might need to replace the motor. I still think the investment is worth it on a vintage machine,
One of the Joann shoppes near me used to have in person sewing lessons, but that was before 2020. I looked a few months ago and everything I could find was online videos, only. I was not able to find any in person.
Try a sewing machine store. In Seattle sewing and vacuum had free threading lessons every month. Joanne makes most of its money off other crafts so they aren’t as investing teaching you to use a sewing machine. I’d also search you area for a makers space many have free public access hours even if they are a member org.
Singer Model 20, also called the SewHandy it's a vintage machine but it was sold as a "toy" machine. It's less than 8" long, but it WORKS. The caveat being that it's a chain stitch not a lock stitch. It is however a "mini or toy" machine that works! (as long as it's one of the originals and not a remake from the 70's or 80's)
The model 20 was a fully functional machine, marketed both as a toy and to the adult market. Somewhere I saw an ad directed at girls going off to college. I don't have one yet.
On a vintage machine you need to be careful because when you get into the '60s singer started putting a lot of plastic in their gears and they are breaking now. Kenmore up through the '70s. Use steel in most of their machines. It was later on. There was a few in the '60s I think that they had plastic in but for the most part the 158 series was steel. There were a few like the 158.1980 that was had some plastic in it and a few others the plastic gears are breaking. They're not easy to fix. Some of them can be some of them. Cannot be a singer. 237 is a good machine as manufactured in the late '60s, but any of your straight stitch singer, sewing machines are going to be good. Japanese models are nearly all of them are good and in some cases even better than what singer was putting out. Kenmore the 158 series was leaps and bounds better than singer, especially today. They're not hard to get working if they don't. Just if it looks good on the outside. Generally speaking they were taken care of. They might have just been stored improperly, but I have several kenmore's several singers. My recommendation would be to stay away from any and all of the touch and sew sewing machines. Some of them are good. Some of them are bad meaning that they have plastic in the gears and some of the other parts are plastic. 603e is a good machine. I have one. They're all metal gears. My favorite machine has to be the singer 201 but other than that my kenmore's are my favorite
@@fashionrebelution thank you! These vintage machines are absolutely wonderful. They will do pretty much everything that a modern machine can do and in my opinion can do it better. They put out beautiful stitches. No electronics to go bad. They're easy to work on. Easy to fix. Easy to maintain. They will last lifetimes they have lasted lifetimes they will last lifetimes more. These are things that you can pass down to your children to your grandchildren and it's amazing how many people are getting these machines fixing them up and sewing wonderful projects Even treadle and hand crank machines. People will fix up and use them to make their projects with. There's a lady in England who has a channel that uses a hand crank and a treadle machine and she sews all of her projects that I'm aware of on those two machines
That plastic gear problem is much over-played. It's about an hour fix, $10 for the gear and you're good for another 30 years. I agree totally on the 237. It was pretty much the last machine to use the older internals, very similar to the Class 15's. I grab every one I see.
@@Doctor_Al yeah some of the sewing machines are easy fixes with the plastic gear. Some are not some. There's just no replacement parts or the entire machine has to be taken apart because the plastic gear is on the main shaft and that will take more than an hour and you have to have a set of tools that a lot of people don't have. If it's not something that you're comfortable with doing, I wouldn't try to tear into replacing plastic gears. I have had machines that had gears that just crumbled and the only replacement was to buy another machine and pull that gear which is going to eventually fail or just took the parts off of it you could use and threw it in the scrap metal pile. There are some people that are very talented, far better talented than I am that can take these gears if they have one in good enough shape and 3D print one model, it and 3D print the gear and that's been salvaging a lot of sewing machines which I think is a wonderful idea. Because if the only thing that's keeping a machine from being used, that is a wonderful machine is just a plastic gear that's breaking. Then the replacement is a good idea. But I have had in my shop mini machines with plastic gears and I can count on one hand. The machines that went out still working that the gear wasn't the problem because it was broke. I had one machine I purchased early on when I first started fixing up machines. That machine worked when I bought it. I let it sit for a few months not even. I don't even think it sat 6 months and in the process of trying to not get everything oiled up both gears crumbled that was a singer fashion mate 457 you can buy the gears for it but you have to take the main shaft out to replace one of them or at least on mime you did so many of us that do repair and revitalize vintage sewing machines. Caution people on machines with plastic gears because you never know how long that gear is going to last. You don't know when it's going to break. It could last several years or it could break tomorrow but it will eventually break but if you have one that is working and working good and the gears look like they're in great shape, use it by all means, use it. Enjoy it. Don't let it sit and waste. They're they're not all bad machines. Kenmore machines that had plastic gears work good machines. I'm not a fan of the singer in the from the '60s and '70s too much, but that's more that I'm kind of partial to the kenmore's if I had somebody bring me a machine that had plastic gears I would let them know what they had so they could be aware of it that eventually one day they're going to have a problem. That way they can decide what they want to do with it. I'm a firm believer in. You cannot make a decision on something unless you know about it and the machines that have been made in the last 20 years. I don't think you're in any chance of them any danger of them breaking the gears in 20 more years maybe? I do know that the ones that are in the '90s that were made in the '90s. Some of those are starting to have issues with the gears but it's just the nature of plastic nylon me personally I'd rather have an all metal machine. They're not hard to find. I never have to worry about gears, breaking or anything like that. They're easy to maintain. It's just my personal preference. There have been several people that have had 457s that had gears broke, replaced the gears and they went right on working. I think the vertical shaft top gear is the one that crumbles the most on the 457 not the one on the main shaft. Just mine was both gears and they went right on using their machine wonderfully and from my understanding, the replacement gears depending on where you get them from can be hit and miss whether or not they work right or not. I've heard some reports from people that said that the the plastic gears that they got aftermarket. Some of them were bad. Didn't fit right they wouldn't fit the shaft. They didn't fit the the gears. Some of them were coming apart but I think that's more manufacturer and not that it's just plasty. So I would go to places like sewing Parts online or some other reputable parts company and get your parts from there. If you were replacing ing plastic gears, I had a brother machine. I don't remember the model number now. I've already tossed it in the aluminum pile. Beautiful machine. Wonderful machine. Multiple plastic gears. One of them which was a main gear broke. There was no replacement for it and I looked. I wanted to fix that machine up so bad but I couldn't find a replacement and I was not going to buy a plastic gear from online on a used machine cuz I kind of feel buying. One of those gears is kind of like buying a used battery out of a junkyard but that's my own personal thoughts on that. And it could be that people like me who work on machines have a tendency to see all of the bad machines come in and get focused on well plastic gears breaking. Not a good idea and we don't see all of the ones out there that are instilling use and people are sewing and making wonderful projects with. And these things are wondering working wonderfully for these people because they don't come in to get fixed and that's very likely what's going on too
I hope some of the machines with plastic gears see enough use for them to wear out. I’d bet my 15 year old Brother has plastic gears and it’s seen a lot of use. Still it’s an unexpected expense someone might have with a used machine they don’t know the history of. Most second hand machines have done years of nothing.
I've got 6 machines (oops) and quite honestly if I neder needed zigzag or stretch stitch, the only one I'd ever use is the 1914 hand crank machine that my friend's mom brought over from Englandafter the second world war. None of my machines are later models than the 1980s, but the two newest ones are garbage. The 80's one is a plastic basic model Singer and I'd never have wanted another machine if it wasn't such a jerk. I've even had it serviced multiple times. It made me think I hated sewing and would only do it because I got what I wanted in the end. It likes to mess with its tension and even spit the thread right out of its tensioner mid-seam. And it's very particular aobut bobbins it will use, it wants a certain kind of plastic ones but not all plastic ones... The next youngest machine I had high hopes for because I've always (until this) had great experiences with Kenmore models, it was a late 70's model that had been used for one project then put back in its original box for 40 years, but it had been designed assuming it would never need service or lubrication, so its innards are gunked together and I can't figure how to open it up, the technicians who degunked it enough that I got straight and zigzag back and could backstitch without changing the stitch length told me it was a bad design, not worth fixing beyond that, and they left toolmarks on the enamel just trying to get it open. It's already showing signs of gunking back up, and if I sew anything thick like a seam intersection, it's got a tendency to snap its thread, and I do not understand how its tensioner is supposed to work at all, it's just a vertical slot you put the thread through and sometimes it seems to catch whatever controls tension, sometimes it doesn't, it's the queen of "well, maybe unthreading and rethreading will make it behave this time". I also have a 1960's Universal that according to my research was a cheaply built machine when it was manufactured and according to the friend who had it serviced before gifting it to me, they said its motor's not that strong and it should not be used for extended seams or anything really heavy, give it lots of little breaks. Which is fine, I rarely do sewing marathons and I need lots of little breaks myself. I used it this summer to sew swimsuits and it got a bit weird in the tension over thick areas (ie seam intersections) and absolutely refused to sew through the kind of elastic that looks like a rubber band but took the braided elastic and the stretchy thread I was using like a champ. I recently acquired a departed friend's early 70's Kenmore and I have high hopes for this one, it's been well maintained as far as I can see, has the stretch stitch I want for knits that the Universal doesn't have, and did all its things properly until I tried to fix the rip in a pair of pants and I think there's a fluff of cotton cargo pants caught in it somewhere, so I need to take it all apart and give it a thorough cleaning and lubrication because it started snapping its thread and missing stitches right after that happened. I'm wondering if I could convince one of the several vintage machine repair places to let me watch them fix my machines, I'd pay extra for the knowledge. I even have the original manual for this one. It's not that I don't want to pay them what it's worth, it's that when something goes wonky in the middle of the project, I want to know enough to do a fix so I can finish... I want to at least run through all the usual suspects before I have to pack it up and bring it somewhere.
A cheapo Brother or singer plastic sewing machines is very 'bad advice'. People give up sewing when using plastic machines or machines that give you grief. Grief till I brought my first Janome. You can't even see if you have threaded them correctly in these plastic encased machines. I have 7 user friendly Janome's. 1 sewing machine brought brand new in 1995. 1 overlocker or serger as you call then in the US from around 1997. Another 4 secondhand sewing machine's and another overlocker or serger. They are still built on a metal frame and can be fixed, not that any of mine have needed fixing except one when I purchased it, and I fixed it myself. Dream machines. Kenmore and New Home are Janome's.
I’m so glad you have had great luck with your Janome. As I said in my video, mine Janome was an unfortunate choice, but I did list it as one of the reliable high end brands so I’m right there with you. I’ve seen student struggle just as much with the metal frames as the plastic ones and know that all machines require basic troubleshooting but I do love the vintage machines that are so much sturdier.
I completely agree. I bought a Singer and it was AWFUL. It had several defects and jammed constantly. Initially I assumed it was me. I finally realized it really was the machine. But singer only gave me a 90-day warranty and would not give me a replacement. Two words: Private equity. ( See my other comment)
I have an obsession. :) Besides, they all sew differently. And have different features. The 201-2 sews like a magic carpet. Some have knee controllers instead of foot pedals (Elna), Maybe you want one of the decorative stitches offered on the models that have changeable cams. And there's a lot of fun to be had bringing a neglected, half seized machine back to like-new. Lots of reasons.
Knit stitch can be nice but it’s super hard to take out and not much needed. Why do you say zig zag is a myth? I get about the same amount of stretch from it as I do from knit stitches before the stitches start to snap.
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Yes that is bad information. I do repair vintage and non-computerized sewing machines. I even have several that I fix up and I donate to people people who are wanting to get into sewing but don't necessarily have the funds to buy their first sewing machine or not sure what to do. No strings attached. It's theirs to keep do what they want with but I do fix and have always fixed vintage sewing machines. They're not hard. They're easy
Where are you located? Feel free to share your info here.
I am fortunate to have a Kenmore sewing machine from the 1970's. It's been very reliable. I love your enthusiasm🙂
Thanks so much. Kenmore sure is popular in the vintage category.
Oh yeah, gimmie all those old Kenmores you want. I have 40 sewing machines, from treadles to harness stitchers and the one that lives in the middle of my craft room is an 80's version, 8 stitch freearm Kenmore.
Have a Kenmore 158.104. work horse. All steel gears.
i have some alternate advice - if you enjoy tinkering and don't know where to start with sewing projects at all, but want to at least try but have the space for a 20-35kg machine - i recommend a vintage singer machine (1900s-1950s) hand crank or treadle. They're made to last and still have a big community who collect and maintain vintage machines, and share knowledge on being able to maintain and fix them up at home. most of the popular models will only do a straight stitch, and sometimes with no reverse, but there's no computer board to burn out, and you can go at a safe and slow speed with a hand crank. they're absolute beasts in terms of what thick fabrics you can throw at them, and its much harder to mess up a mechanical machine than a modern electric. there's a large abundance of parts out there and feet, and it's easy to check out what model u have, and a bit more about it, based on their serial numbers.
they start at absolutely DIRT cheap to buy, and often given away for the convenience of people not wanting their heavy inherited machine in their way anymore. It's a safe alternative to jumping in too deep and messing up someone else's machine, and you can see what every part is doing because things like top tension are now hidden behind dials and plastic.
if you're environmentally concious the lack of electricity is awesome, but you can also fit motors on most models, or find factory motorised models even.
If you don't use the machine for a while, they also look great on display.
my "youngest" machine model is from the early 60's - i finally wanted to try out a macine with a zigzag stitch though so bought a budget singer from around 2011. The experience is night and day - it feels like sewing with a toy in comparison and probably will struggle with thicker fabrics and layers.
...Meanwhile i've seen vintage singers demo'ed sewing through 4-6 layers of leather, and in one instance, an empty food tin! - so it really depends what experience you want out of sewing and what you start to enjoy about it :D i will defo enjoy trying out my "modern" singer and using the pattern range, but will always fall back on my vintage singer for rugged use, quilting, and anything crazy that would absolutely obliterate a modern machine like non clothing for art projects
I love it. I hope more people will jump on your challenge of starting with a vintage mechanical machine. I’ve never had a treadle but have always wanted one.
@@fashionrebelution ooo do take the plunge whenever you're feeling brave or the oppurtunity pops up! the singer models 99, 15, 185, 201 are all easy to find and the most produced, and will have a tonne of resources
Alex Askaroff is a veteran in the scene and has a great YT channel where he talks about a tonne of models in detail, and also runs a fantastic site "sewalot" wheres he's written a tonne on vintage machines, as well as books, and on other makes and models beyond the Singer. They're easy to date with their serial numbers too, so finding out the model is also easy as well as buying feet in bulk, etc
Word of warning - your first won't be your last if you buy one! they are strangely addictive! 😀
I love my 1914 Jones Family vibrating shuttle hand crank machine, it's my go-to because all my electric machines are ticking me off right now! It did take two of us an entire evening of googling antique machines to figure out what it actually was, all it said on it was "Victoria" and "made in England", my friend finally found out that the giant screw on the top is what denotes it to be a Jones... turns out just about every machine manufacturer at the time made a Victoria around then... but once I was able to figure out what the heck it WAS, I found a free PDF download of the manual and was good to go. I also have a Minnesota A treadle machine but it's proven to be more challenging to determine its actual make, as Sears-Roebuck had at least three different manufacturers make them and I'll probably need to deep-dive into some of the forums to figure out exactly what I've got and exactly when it's from, though I have ruled out it being older than my Jones hand crank by a specific thing in its decals... Looks like it shares a lot of parts with the Jones hand crank though, the bobbins and bobbin winder assemblies look identical, and I'm hoping they both use the same kind of round shank needles too. When I take my next machine in, I'll get it a band so I can actually try using it.
I have access to a 50's Singer with the motor mounted on the back and the light lights up but the motor's not enough to crank the machine over so I'll also ask them if that motor is worth repairing. Hand cranking it wasn't terribly difficult and its tension is still fine (there was still a piece of fabric in it) so I need to make a decision by Xmas if I'm going to rescue it from the garage it's in at the moment...
I love your Kenmore story. I feel like machines were pretty good until the late 90s. Thanks so much for the encouragement.
A lot of 70’s and 80’s Kenmore machines were made by Janome.
My Janome's are all from the 90"s and a couple from the early 2000's. All in perfect working order. They only thing different is the upgraded casing that modernised them
Great video!!! You are so right about people trying to sell you an expensive machine that could be way overkill for the beginner. What I have found is that the vintage metal body machines are better made and can be cleaned, oiled and maintained by the user. The plastic ones have clips the hold it together that are easy to break. The cost to service them is sometimes as much as a new machine. I think that if a person is expecting to make bags and/or quilts, those are 2 hobbies that can push a machine to its limits due to the multiple thick layers. In those instances, more care should be made to get something that will last and like you said, test out a used machine to see if it works for your needs. TFS
You are so right that plastic is very inferior. For most folks just learning and reworking clothes I still wouldn’t pass up a really inexpensive machine with plastic partsif it’s in good working order.
Like others, I'm blessed to have my Mom's old machine, a Singer 301A. Great strong machine. I do also have a 'younger' Singer with zigzag and stretch stitches. It's supposed to have an auto-threader which i haven't tried yet.
I bought a Singer and it was a complete waste of money. It had multiple defects and Singer would not give me an exchange.
I did some research and learned that decades ago, Singer got bought out by private equity and their quality has been subpar ever since.
I decided to invest in a Bernette Academy and I am incredibly happy with it.
I love your advice about borrowing a machine before purchasing one.
That's such a sad story. One reason I like second hand so much is that the risk is a lot lower. I hope you found your crummy machine a good home.
@fashionrebelution Thank you. No, it's still collecting dust in my home, lol. But I bought myself a Bernette Academy and I couldn't be happier. It's really highlighted to me what a bad machine the singer was. At first, I thought it was just me because I was new to sewing. I'll never buy a piece of machinery that only comes with a 90-day warranty again. That's definitely a red flag. ;)
I got a very nice Kenmore 158.1760 for really cheap because it was locked up would not would not move. I was able to clean out the thread and it worked perfect. Worked beautifully. I still have that machine today. It is my go-to machine when I'm not using my 201
I love stories like this. There are so many gems out there still. 😊
Thanks! I would add that even if you can afford a new machine, an older one that was common enough to have replacement parts easily accessing is a better investment. They are more durable, and buying used is always good for the environment.
Yes! Music to my ears.
@@fashionrebelution I just bought a 1938 singer 15-90. It does a lot of things my modern Brother won't do.
Whaaaaat...don't spend over $75.00 for a used machine?
I bought a used Janome for $135.00 off the secondary market. It's a $2,000 machine brand new. One of the local quilt shops had the same used model for sale a year later for $1,500 and that doesn't include tax.
I would have been stupid to pass that up.
That makes great sense if you are reselling it. For most beginners they can get everything they need for less. Doesn’t mean you can’t buy something nicer.
@@fashionrebelution or it just makes sense to spend a little more for a better quality machine.
Sounds like you're a knowledgeable buyer. This video is addressing beginning sewists. In the grand scheme, she's close enough.
@Doctor_Al not even close. I was six months into sewing and quilting. However I do know how to do my own research and utilize common sense.
@@bbymks5 ok, you win the internet. My compliments to you, I suggest a ticker tape parade.
For us sewing machine hoarders I have several I bought at thrift stores not knowing if they work. But I always go back to my brother or my babylock because of their control. Speed control is key for beginners when sewing round edges like scallops and such.
As for the auto threading, I often use a heavy weight thread when making backpacks or purses. I have had no issues with the auto threading.
Maybe I’ve given up too easy on the auto threading. I’ll give it another go.
I have a vintage toy machine, that stitches a sort of chain stitch, and it's fairly ok. I managed to make some poorly constructed doll clothes. (I had NO IDEA about correct garment construction at age 12 😂)
@@epicnamepwns1242 well done. They can work. I think it takes a bit of patience and a not critical eye. For me sewing one handed without a surface is just so hard. I’m sure most kids can do it because they have no expectations.
If you are taking sewing lessons at your local uni, you can also make use of the uni sewing machines. Another thing you could do, is find one second hand. Second hand you could easily get away with just a few dollars instead of a few hundred dollars for a new one. You can always get a brand new one later.
Yes. Right there with you. That’s pretty much the point of the video.
I was lucky to get my mom's machines. Kenmore 158.1914 with all of the attachments and cams, Singer 201 from the 50's and a white superlock 4 thread serger. Ren Fair costumes are pretty easy with this setup. Corsets are still a struggle though, going to thick on your fabric will make a nightmare.
You are blessed.
Try shimming your presser foot in back and you should be able to sew those thicker fabrics just fine. Anything that can fit under the foot you can probably sew. I show how to shim things in the denim project I mentioned.
I live on a small Scottish island. During lockdown I decided to buy a sewing machine. I watched lots of TH-cam videos, and everything I’ve made has turned out great. I started off with masks, then little zippered cosmetic bags. Then I discovered Tilly & the Buttons book Stretch. Lots of clothing items using stretch fabric. I’m still using my basic Janome, it’s not a computerized machine, but really all you need is a straight stitch, and a zigzag stitch.
I love this story. I totally agree. Straight and zigzag covers just about everything.
I love my Mom's post-war Japanese made Admiral sewing machine, a Singer knockoff. I learned to sew on it and find it easy to maintain. If we needed to, we could fix it ourselves which we couldn't if it were computerized. My sister had a fancy newer machine and I helped her find an Admiral like Moms. And it was the Deluxe model. She loves it, too.
I secretly love all sewing machines even the computerized ones. I just feel bad for the kid machines that really are so hard to use.
This is all sound advice. The one thing I'd add is about sewing leather - Garment weight leather is one thing and what this video is talking about. Belts, holsters, wallets, etc are a whole different thing. Now you're in Walking Foot Industrial or even Harness Stitcher territory - And no, the walking foot attachment for your domestic doesn't count.
Thanks. That makes sense. Can you still use a domestic to punch the holes on thick leathers and then sew by hand?
@@fashionrebelution Well, to a point. The challenge is clearance under the presser foot. I know of people what will use maybe a 201 to pre-punch a single layer belt. Much more just won't fit.
Super informative!
Thanks for dropping the comment. Your moral support means a ton to me.
With a 70s era Kenmore, you get best of both worlds - an all metal machine with more modern stitches that do come in handy, like a blind stitch for hems and a pretty good buttonholer, and a free arm for sleeves. They're also ugly as sin, so people will typically sell them cheap. No one values them who doesn't already know vintage machines. I've got 13+ machines at the moment (ranging from 1905 to 2017), and I'll admit my Kenmore 148 series has a very high quality feel to it-- once I got the tension problems figured out (which were not insubstantial). It cost me $20 on shopgoodwill. So to anyone starting out, they are probably the best bet, if you can find one serviced and ready to go (and if it comes with a manual... some of the dials are tricky to figure out).
Sorry about your first experience with the “We don’t fix sewing machines older than 5 years old “ people.
I have a wonderful repair lady, Katie, at Crown Vac & Sew in Lake Elsinore, Calif. She takes care of my 3 Singer machines. The oldest is a “Red Eye” from 1911. The middle one is a 401A, made in 1958. The newest is a Tradition from 2009.
The good repair shops are still out there.
Thanks for sharing her name and place. I love when comments become a useful resource for people 😊
ive never paid for a sewing machine, ive gotten a few for free. and i have 2 janome sergers that i paid 30 and 50 (cad) for. there are really good prices out there if you look. a friend gave me a sewing machine she said was broken. it wasnt. either the needle was seated wrong or she was using the wrong kind of bobbin. i have an ancient kenmore that was my moms and that machine is great except it now runs crazy slow. so i need to see if i can fix it.
It might just need some oil. Can you hear the belt slipping? Worst case you might need to replace the motor. I still think the investment is worth it on a vintage machine,
One of the Joann shoppes near me used to have in person sewing lessons, but that was before 2020. I looked a few months ago and everything I could find was online videos, only. I was not able to find any in person.
Try a sewing machine store. In Seattle sewing and vacuum had free threading lessons every month. Joanne makes most of its money off other crafts so they aren’t as investing teaching you to use a sewing machine. I’d also search you area for a makers space many have free public access hours even if they are a member org.
@@fashionrebelution Those are some good resources. I know a few people that can use them.
Singer Model 20, also called the SewHandy it's a vintage machine but it was sold as a "toy" machine. It's less than 8" long, but it WORKS. The caveat being that it's a chain stitch not a lock stitch. It is however a "mini or toy" machine that works! (as long as it's one of the originals and not a remake from the 70's or 80's)
I’ll keep my eye out for one. Of course it’s a vintage model. That makes total sense to me.
The model 20 was a fully functional machine, marketed both as a toy and to the adult market. Somewhere I saw an ad directed at girls going off to college. I don't have one yet.
On a vintage machine you need to be careful because when you get into the '60s singer started putting a lot of plastic in their gears and they are breaking now. Kenmore up through the '70s. Use steel in most of their machines. It was later on. There was a few in the '60s I think that they had plastic in but for the most part the 158 series was steel. There were a few like the 158.1980 that was had some plastic in it and a few others the plastic gears are breaking. They're not easy to fix. Some of them can be some of them. Cannot be a singer. 237 is a good machine as manufactured in the late '60s, but any of your straight stitch singer, sewing machines are going to be good. Japanese models are nearly all of them are good and in some cases even better than what singer was putting out. Kenmore the 158 series was leaps and bounds better than singer, especially today. They're not hard to get working if they don't. Just if it looks good on the outside. Generally speaking they were taken care of. They might have just been stored improperly, but I have several kenmore's several singers. My recommendation would be to stay away from any and all of the touch and sew sewing machines. Some of them are good. Some of them are bad meaning that they have plastic in the gears and some of the other parts are plastic. 603e is a good machine. I have one. They're all metal gears. My favorite machine has to be the singer 201 but other than that my kenmore's are my favorite
Love the level of detail you are sharing here. Pure gold.
@@fashionrebelution thank you! These vintage machines are absolutely wonderful. They will do pretty much everything that a modern machine can do and in my opinion can do it better. They put out beautiful stitches. No electronics to go bad. They're easy to work on. Easy to fix. Easy to maintain. They will last lifetimes they have lasted lifetimes they will last lifetimes more. These are things that you can pass down to your children to your grandchildren and it's amazing how many people are getting these machines fixing them up and sewing wonderful projects Even treadle and hand crank machines. People will fix up and use them to make their projects with. There's a lady in England who has a channel that uses a hand crank and a treadle machine and she sews all of her projects that I'm aware of on those two machines
That plastic gear problem is much over-played. It's about an hour fix, $10 for the gear and you're good for another 30 years. I agree totally on the 237. It was pretty much the last machine to use the older internals, very similar to the Class 15's. I grab every one I see.
@@Doctor_Al yeah some of the sewing machines are easy fixes with the plastic gear. Some are not some. There's just no replacement parts or the entire machine has to be taken apart because the plastic gear is on the main shaft and that will take more than an hour and you have to have a set of tools that a lot of people don't have. If it's not something that you're comfortable with doing, I wouldn't try to tear into replacing plastic gears. I have had machines that had gears that just crumbled and the only replacement was to buy another machine and pull that gear which is going to eventually fail or just took the parts off of it you could use and threw it in the scrap metal pile. There are some people that are very talented, far better talented than I am that can take these gears if they have one in good enough shape and 3D print one model, it and 3D print the gear and that's been salvaging a lot of sewing machines which I think is a wonderful idea. Because if the only thing that's keeping a machine from being used, that is a wonderful machine is just a plastic gear that's breaking. Then the replacement is a good idea. But I have had in my shop mini machines with plastic gears and I can count on one hand. The machines that went out still working that the gear wasn't the problem because it was broke. I had one machine I purchased early on when I first started fixing up machines. That machine worked when I bought it. I let it sit for a few months not even. I don't even think it sat 6 months and in the process of trying to not get everything oiled up both gears crumbled that was a singer fashion mate 457 you can buy the gears for it but you have to take the main shaft out to replace one of them or at least on mime you did so many of us that do repair and revitalize vintage sewing machines. Caution people on machines with plastic gears because you never know how long that gear is going to last. You don't know when it's going to break. It could last several years or it could break tomorrow but it will eventually break but if you have one that is working and working good and the gears look like they're in great shape, use it by all means, use it. Enjoy it. Don't let it sit and waste. They're they're not all bad machines. Kenmore machines that had plastic gears work good machines. I'm not a fan of the singer in the from the '60s and '70s too much, but that's more that I'm kind of partial to the kenmore's if I had somebody bring me a machine that had plastic gears I would let them know what they had so they could be aware of it that eventually one day they're going to have a problem. That way they can decide what they want to do with it. I'm a firm believer in. You cannot make a decision on something unless you know about it and the machines that have been made in the last 20 years. I don't think you're in any chance of them any danger of them breaking the gears in 20 more years maybe? I do know that the ones that are in the '90s that were made in the '90s. Some of those are starting to have issues with the gears but it's just the nature of plastic nylon me personally I'd rather have an all metal machine. They're not hard to find. I never have to worry about gears, breaking or anything like that. They're easy to maintain. It's just my personal preference. There have been several people that have had 457s that had gears broke, replaced the gears and they went right on working. I think the vertical shaft top gear is the one that crumbles the most on the 457 not the one on the main shaft. Just mine was both gears and they went right on using their machine wonderfully and from my understanding, the replacement gears depending on where you get them from can be hit and miss whether or not they work right or not. I've heard some reports from people that said that the the plastic gears that they got aftermarket. Some of them were bad. Didn't fit right they wouldn't fit the shaft. They didn't fit the the gears. Some of them were coming apart but I think that's more manufacturer and not that it's just plasty. So I would go to places like sewing Parts online or some other reputable parts company and get your parts from there. If you were replacing ing plastic gears, I had a brother machine. I don't remember the model number now. I've already tossed it in the aluminum pile. Beautiful machine. Wonderful machine. Multiple plastic gears. One of them which was a main gear broke. There was no replacement for it and I looked. I wanted to fix that machine up so bad but I couldn't find a replacement and I was not going to buy a plastic gear from online on a used machine cuz I kind of feel buying. One of those gears is kind of like buying a used battery out of a junkyard but that's my own personal thoughts on that. And it could be that people like me who work on machines have a tendency to see all of the bad machines come in and get focused on well plastic gears breaking. Not a good idea and we don't see all of the ones out there that are instilling use and people are sewing and making wonderful projects with. And these things are wondering working wonderfully for these people because they don't come in to get fixed and that's very likely what's going on too
I hope some of the machines with plastic gears see enough use for them to wear out. I’d bet my 15 year old Brother has plastic gears and it’s seen a lot of use. Still it’s an unexpected expense someone might have with a used machine they don’t know the history of. Most second hand machines have done years of nothing.
I've got 6 machines (oops) and quite honestly if I neder needed zigzag or stretch stitch, the only one I'd ever use is the 1914 hand crank machine that my friend's mom brought over from Englandafter the second world war.
None of my machines are later models than the 1980s, but the two newest ones are garbage. The 80's one is a plastic basic model Singer and I'd never have wanted another machine if it wasn't such a jerk. I've even had it serviced multiple times. It made me think I hated sewing and would only do it because I got what I wanted in the end. It likes to mess with its tension and even spit the thread right out of its tensioner mid-seam. And it's very particular aobut bobbins it will use, it wants a certain kind of plastic ones but not all plastic ones... The next youngest machine I had high hopes for because I've always (until this) had great experiences with Kenmore models, it was a late 70's model that had been used for one project then put back in its original box for 40 years, but it had been designed assuming it would never need service or lubrication, so its innards are gunked together and I can't figure how to open it up, the technicians who degunked it enough that I got straight and zigzag back and could backstitch without changing the stitch length told me it was a bad design, not worth fixing beyond that, and they left toolmarks on the enamel just trying to get it open. It's already showing signs of gunking back up, and if I sew anything thick like a seam intersection, it's got a tendency to snap its thread, and I do not understand how its tensioner is supposed to work at all, it's just a vertical slot you put the thread through and sometimes it seems to catch whatever controls tension, sometimes it doesn't, it's the queen of "well, maybe unthreading and rethreading will make it behave this time". I also have a 1960's Universal that according to my research was a cheaply built machine when it was manufactured and according to the friend who had it serviced before gifting it to me, they said its motor's not that strong and it should not be used for extended seams or anything really heavy, give it lots of little breaks. Which is fine, I rarely do sewing marathons and I need lots of little breaks myself. I used it this summer to sew swimsuits and it got a bit weird in the tension over thick areas (ie seam intersections) and absolutely refused to sew through the kind of elastic that looks like a rubber band but took the braided elastic and the stretchy thread I was using like a champ.
I recently acquired a departed friend's early 70's Kenmore and I have high hopes for this one, it's been well maintained as far as I can see, has the stretch stitch I want for knits that the Universal doesn't have, and did all its things properly until I tried to fix the rip in a pair of pants and I think there's a fluff of cotton cargo pants caught in it somewhere, so I need to take it all apart and give it a thorough cleaning and lubrication because it started snapping its thread and missing stitches right after that happened. I'm wondering if I could convince one of the several vintage machine repair places to let me watch them fix my machines, I'd pay extra for the knowledge. I even have the original manual for this one. It's not that I don't want to pay them what it's worth, it's that when something goes wonky in the middle of the project, I want to know enough to do a fix so I can finish... I want to at least run through all the usual suspects before I have to pack it up and bring it somewhere.
A cheapo Brother or singer plastic sewing machines is very 'bad advice'. People give up sewing when using plastic machines or machines that give you grief. Grief till I brought my first Janome. You can't even see if you have threaded them correctly in these plastic encased machines. I have 7 user friendly Janome's. 1 sewing machine brought brand new in 1995. 1 overlocker or serger as you call then in the US from around 1997. Another 4 secondhand sewing machine's and another overlocker or serger. They are still built on a metal frame and can be fixed, not that any of mine have needed fixing except one when I purchased it, and I fixed it myself. Dream machines. Kenmore and New Home are Janome's.
I’m so glad you have had great luck with your Janome. As I said in my video, mine Janome was an unfortunate choice, but I did list it as one of the reliable high end brands so I’m right there with you. I’ve seen student struggle just as much with the metal frames as the plastic ones and know that all machines require basic troubleshooting but I do love the vintage machines that are so much sturdier.
I;m going to disagree about the entry level Brothers. I've found them quite reliable and with some nice features.
I completely agree. I bought a Singer and it was AWFUL. It had several defects and jammed constantly. Initially I assumed it was me. I finally realized it really was the machine. But singer only gave me a 90-day warranty and would not give me a replacement.
Two words: Private equity. ( See my other comment)
@@Doctor_Al I’ve had great fortune with the Brothers too and have seen my students struggle less with the top loading bobbins.
I've owned the same machine for 35yrs. I'm confused why y'all are buying so many....?
I provide them in my classes and events for people that are learning to sew that don’t have their own.
I have an obsession. :) Besides, they all sew differently. And have different features. The 201-2 sews like a magic carpet. Some have knee controllers instead of foot pedals (Elna), Maybe you want one of the decorative stitches offered on the models that have changeable cams. And there's a lot of fun to be had bringing a neglected, half seized machine back to like-new. Lots of reasons.
Oh, a knee controller. I’d trade my Janome Skyline for that.
I've only bought one of my machines, the rest I sort of adopted...
You want knit stitch. It plain works better than the myth of zig zag.
Sergers? Try taking out a serger seam. You don’t start with that.
Knit stitch can be nice but it’s super hard to take out and not much needed. Why do you say zig zag is a myth? I get about the same amount of stretch from it as I do from knit stitches before the stitches start to snap.