A similar video demonstration using an HOA switch explaining symbols, etc would be awesome! Thanks! Really appreciate how you break down and explain everything in your videos!
Proximity sensors as well as photocells are being utilized much more in today's AC world. These sensors are common place in DIY hobbyists parts boxes that focus manly on DC circuit breadboarding/prototyping with micro controllers. I suggest everyone interested in becoming a successful electrician start there. The fundamentals are going to be learned there and carried over to this field.
I was quite surprised with this video. The content you provided here includes devices I used in the distant past. Those older analog clocks are quite annoying as they forget the correct time in the event of a power outage. I always found photocells quite flaky as they aged and/or got dirty their behaviour gets quite erratic. I am glad you mentioned more advanced devices are now available. Such devices can turn lights on at dusk or some offset from dusk (like 30 minutes before dusk) and switch them of at a particular time or at dawn if so desired. For example, a retail shopping parking lot my require lights on at dusk and off at 30 minutes past closing time and vary the off time by shopping hours on particular week days. And these newer controllers (if appropriately connected) can access a time signal to reset their internal clocks in the event of a power outage.
The older analog clocks have been replaced by digital ones, which fit in the same housing and can be programmed with different on/off times for different days of the week, and have calendar memory so that holidays and special events can be pre-programmed. There are also GPS enabled photo controls which don't actually need to detect the natural lighting level at all, they just "see" where on the planet they are (if they can receive the signals from GPS satellites) and know exactly what time sunset is and sunrise, which can be factory programmed for things like on 1/2 hour before sunset and off at midnight. These are in the twist-lock style used on tops of streetlights and to control highway lighting controllers instead of the the traditional street light style photocell. A combination of time-clock and photo control can be wired to turn on at dusk and off at a pre-set time, simply the time clock powers the photo control.
@@darrendolphdragos9752 Thanks. If they are using the GPS satellites then they never lose the correct time during a power outage as they can reset automatically from the satellites.
Lighting control and automation would be awesome to see. You give great explanations explaining why things work which helps out so much to go replicate at work!
Hey Dustin! Quick question for you. I’m trying to pass my 01 Administrators exam. Would help me by making a video on how you highlighted Article 220 please? That would help a ton!
Since I retired in early 2016 from the Electrical Distribution Industry, Lighting Control and wireless communicating devices have exploded. Wiring devices used to be a small portion of the total electric spend on a project. Today, the wiring and lighting control may be larger than the actual lighting, gear and possibly the commodities.
In some applications, yes, it is. But, not on the regular, yet. Look up the IECC requirements. You will see that it will be more expensive before people figure out work arounds. Two power packs, vacancy sensors and controlled receptacles... In each and every 600sqft space or smaller.
Before watching this, I need to give a shout out to IECC 2021. This is some crazy shit. I will watch and respond after I do. See if you touched on that.
Your demonstration includes the use of relays. But, if I understand correctly, the relays are not necessary. Once the timer or photocell closes the circuit, could not the hot leg simply go directly to the load? Or, what am I missing?
You’re correct. Relays or contactors allow larger loads (30 amps or more) to be controlled because photocells are limited by their amperage or wattage rating (20 amps or 2,000 watts).
8:25 “The clocks always working” I have a couple of the 208v models of those timers at my work that would disagree lol. They’re like $70 and my boss still won’t let me replace them.
I don't think switchgear is his thing. That's like a specialty field right there brother, mostly for high voltage sparks working in industrial plants or substation techs. I wouldn't expect a resi/commercial spark to be thoroughly knowledgeable on switchgear. They might install them once I. A while, but not as much as they are switchboards/panel boards/load centers...
Switchgear, I believe, as the OP was talking about, is a colloquial term for main distribution gear, that is larger than what you would see in regular residential services, or even light commercial stuff.
Question - Do I need to run a ground to smoke detoctors in slab ran with plastic smurf in a plastic box with no grounding point on the box or on the smokes? Can someone please give me a code reference. Thank you.
Every conduit that is either underground or non-conductive requires a ground wire. I don't have my code book in front of me, but it is there. Read through section 250. It is probably one of the most informative sections in the code. And most misunderstood.
@IceBergGeo where's the code reference? Thank you. There is nothing to hook the ground to in the smoke detectors, so the nec is just making us waste money? This is a highrise. 48 storys. So on the 20'th fl it's not a wet location in the slab.
I know this is odd but my parents own a popular restaurant in sevier county TN and we have a face book profile with your picture every single day attacking us and bashing us all over the place (dude we are just selling pizza seems so odd someone would do that but it is what it is) I was just curious if the profile belonged to you or not
He also didn't use the correct box grommets. It's a demonstration, not completely code accurate. Also, it might not be a metal box to begin with. We cannot be certain.
DUSTIN, Most Photocells when its DARK the photocell resistance is High resistance/high impedance and when LIGHT the photocell resistance is LOW resistance/low impedance. It doesn't make sense whey DARK high resistance would CLOSE the contact circuit? Logically it would be High resistance OPENS the contact circuit not when Low Resistance OPENS the contact circuit. This is confusing how its backwards or reversed
ELECTRICIANS COMMENT PLEASE, WHAT DO YALL THINK ABOUT THIS? The grounding concept. I know an Electrician ( NO ITS NOT ME LOL) that uses the Raceway metallic (EMT) and on each end transitions to Non metallic tubing (Raint Tight) and he uses the Raceway to run his #4 bare wire for the cold water spicket and he claims it's a loop hole for him not to bond his EMT ( He claims it's because each end is transitioned to NON metallic therefore no bond needed. Sometimes they fail him... other times they don't fail him. What do yall think about this? I personally think you need to bond the metal one way, or another. I don't think that's a good idea to transition. Even if electricity runs through it on a trip for less than a second.
Seems like he's going through extra effort to be annoying to the inspector. The time and material cost to transition to and from EMT to PVC is more costly than just putting a proper grounding hub on, or a ground clamp on the EMT.
Once again you didn't show much you just explain everything. Sometimes you do a really good job at showing how the work is actually done other times the videos are basically just click bait.
11:00 As an electrician, i didnt learn anything new. But that fine by me. But if this was intended for Do It Yourselfers, then, i'm pretty sure they did not find this usefull. That's my comment for you ( dustin ) to aknowledge... but i sadly know that you never really take the time to read the comment section. Even if you tell us to leave one down below...🙃
@@IceBergGeoyes but always have to reset time in case of power failure or seasonal time changes. Digital electronic ones have time memory and are much smaller. Fits into 1gang box. And have same load ampacity as the big mechanical ones
@@martf1061 you are correct... Mostly.... Those big mechanical ones are rated at 30A. And most of them are two pole. Those little ones are neither. The other bad part about them, some at least, is you have to replace the battery inside every so often. And they are more subject to failure. You have to take the good and the bad with each.
@@martf1061 And one short circuit on the load wiring, or a local power surge fries the electronic timer, which uses a triac, rather than a mechanical contact, to switch the load.
A video on lighting controls would be great!🤙🏽
Nice use of PPE. Even for a demonstration like this, safety is always paramount.
Please do more automation videos. Stuff like vfd’s and star/delta starters for motors would be cool also.
Very much enjoy your videos. Makes me wish I had gone into being an electrician when I was young. Please keep the videos coming
A similar video demonstration using an HOA switch explaining symbols, etc would be awesome! Thanks! Really appreciate how you break down and explain everything in your videos!
Proximity sensors as well as photocells are being utilized much more in today's AC world. These sensors are common place in DIY hobbyists parts boxes that focus manly on DC circuit breadboarding/prototyping with micro controllers. I suggest everyone interested in becoming a successful electrician start there. The fundamentals are going to be learned there and carried over to this field.
Great video. This is what i do and I appreciate more content on lighting.
I was quite surprised with this video. The content you provided here includes devices I used in the distant past. Those older analog clocks are quite annoying as they forget the correct time in the event of a power outage. I always found photocells quite flaky as they aged and/or got dirty their behaviour gets quite erratic. I am glad you mentioned more advanced devices are now available. Such devices can turn lights on at dusk or some offset from dusk (like 30 minutes before dusk) and switch them of at a particular time or at dawn if so desired. For example, a retail shopping parking lot my require lights on at dusk and off at 30 minutes past closing time and vary the off time by shopping hours on particular week days. And these newer controllers (if appropriately connected) can access a time signal to reset their internal clocks in the event of a power outage.
The older analog clocks have been replaced by digital ones, which fit in the same housing and can be programmed with different on/off times for different days of the week, and have calendar memory so that holidays and special events can be pre-programmed. There are also GPS enabled photo controls which don't actually need to detect the natural lighting level at all, they just "see" where on the planet they are (if they can receive the signals from GPS satellites) and know exactly what time sunset is and sunrise, which can be factory programmed for things like on 1/2 hour before sunset and off at midnight. These are in the twist-lock style used on tops of streetlights and to control highway lighting controllers instead of the the traditional street light style photocell. A combination of time-clock and photo control can be wired to turn on at dusk and off at a pre-set time, simply the time clock powers the photo control.
@@darrendolphdragos9752 Thanks. If they are using the GPS satellites then they never lose the correct time during a power outage as they can reset automatically from the satellites.
Great video Enjoy the hands on explanation
Lighting control and automation would be awesome to see. You give great explanations explaining why things work which helps out so much to go replicate at work!
great information
Aw... we didn't get to see what color the switched bulb is. Nice video!💡
Cool video Dustin keep them coming back lol ❤😮😊
them safety glasses and gloves are killing me, lol
Bro you’re the fucking best. Thanks again for a awesome video
Hey Dustin! Quick question for you. I’m trying to pass my 01 Administrators exam. Would help me by making a video on how you highlighted Article 220 please? That would help a ton!
That was cool but what about mushon sensor or occupy sensors just saying great video as always thanks
Great video as always Dustin though there is a misspelling 4 38 electrical instead of electical
Bro how did you notice that
Nice Lab
can you make a series on DALI lighting system
Hey Dustin do you have anything for electricians in Virginia?
Can you do a video about led lightings system with led drivers
I’m a little confused about the led drivers and how to troubleshoot them
put the clock and the photo cell in series for the ultimate control for areas that have big changes from summer to winter
Since I retired in early 2016 from the Electrical Distribution Industry, Lighting Control and wireless communicating devices have exploded. Wiring devices used to be a small portion of the total electric spend on a project. Today, the wiring and lighting control may be larger than the actual lighting, gear and possibly the commodities.
In some applications, yes, it is. But, not on the regular, yet. Look up the IECC requirements. You will see that it will be more expensive before people figure out work arounds. Two power packs, vacancy sensors and controlled receptacles... In each and every 600sqft space or smaller.
What enclosure do you use to house lighting contactors?! i cant seem to get a good answer online
You should do a video on switchgears
How about disconnecting solar panels for roof repairs?
Before watching this, I need to give a shout out to IECC 2021. This is some crazy shit.
I will watch and respond after I do. See if you touched on that.
I need one of your official shirts 😊😊
Your demonstration includes the use of relays. But, if I understand correctly, the relays are not necessary. Once the timer or photocell closes the circuit, could not the hot leg simply go directly to the load? Or, what am I missing?
You’re correct. Relays or contactors allow larger loads (30 amps or more) to be controlled because photocells are limited by their amperage or wattage rating (20 amps or 2,000 watts).
@@THEG00CH89 I see. Thanks for your reply.
- " if i say PHOTONS two more times, that's 46 Photons in this Photon song!! "
- " I wanna Photon like an animal!"
* Limp biskit.
You could have told us what's going on on that red wire. Is it a voltage? Just a resistance that changes? *How* does it switch the contractor?
Curious, why do you have the contactors in your circuits?
I was wondering the same, if the time clock/photocell is basically a contractor?
Part of a set-up for another video
so why did you add contactors?
8:25 “The clocks always working”
I have a couple of the 208v models of those timers at my work that would disagree lol.
They’re like $70 and my boss still won’t let me replace them.
Great Video. Keep it up. Maybe you could talk about switchgear.
I don't think switchgear is his thing. That's like a specialty field right there brother, mostly for high voltage sparks working in industrial plants or substation techs.
I wouldn't expect a resi/commercial spark to be thoroughly knowledgeable on switchgear. They might install them once I. A while, but not as much as they are switchboards/panel boards/load centers...
Switchgear, I believe, as the OP was talking about, is a colloquial term for main distribution gear, that is larger than what you would see in regular residential services, or even light commercial stuff.
Question - Do I need to run a ground to smoke detoctors in slab ran with plastic smurf in a plastic box with no grounding point on the box or on the smokes? Can someone please give me a code reference. Thank you.
Every conduit that is either underground or non-conductive requires a ground wire. I don't have my code book in front of me, but it is there. Read through section 250. It is probably one of the most informative sections in the code. And most misunderstood.
@IceBergGeo where's the code reference? Thank you. There is nothing to hook the ground to in the smoke detectors, so the nec is just making us waste money? This is a highrise. 48 storys. So on the 20'th fl it's not a wet location in the slab.
I know this is odd but my parents own a popular restaurant in sevier county TN and we have a face book profile with your picture every single day attacking us and bashing us all over the place (dude we are just selling pizza seems so odd someone would do that but it is what it is) I was just curious if the profile belonged to you or not
7:20
P.P.E.
👍👍
😆😆
In the demonstration part, i dont see a green wire going to the photocell box... Yet, i see metal parts ( box, box cover..)
He also didn't use the correct box grommets. It's a demonstration, not completely code accurate.
Also, it might not be a metal box to begin with. We cannot be certain.
DUSTIN, Most Photocells when its DARK the photocell resistance is High resistance/high impedance and when LIGHT the photocell resistance is LOW resistance/low impedance. It doesn't make sense whey DARK high resistance would CLOSE the contact circuit? Logically it would be High resistance OPENS the contact circuit not when Low Resistance OPENS the contact circuit. This is confusing how its backwards or reversed
ELECTRICIANS COMMENT PLEASE, WHAT DO YALL THINK ABOUT THIS?
The grounding concept. I know an Electrician ( NO ITS NOT ME LOL) that uses the Raceway metallic (EMT) and on each end transitions to Non metallic tubing (Raint Tight) and he uses the Raceway to run his #4 bare wire for the cold water spicket and he claims it's a loop hole for him not to bond his EMT ( He claims it's because each end is transitioned to NON metallic therefore no bond needed. Sometimes they fail him... other times they don't fail him. What do yall think about this?
I personally think you need to bond the metal one way, or another. I don't think that's a good idea to transition. Even if electricity runs through it on a trip for less than a second.
Seems like he's going through extra effort to be annoying to the inspector. The time and material cost to transition to and from EMT to PVC is more costly than just putting a proper grounding hub on, or a ground clamp on the EMT.
Once again you didn't show much you just explain everything. Sometimes you do a really good job at showing how the work is actually done other times the videos are basically just click bait.
11:00
As an electrician, i didnt learn anything new. But that fine by me.
But if this was intended for Do It Yourselfers, then, i'm pretty sure they did not find this usefull.
That's my comment for you ( dustin ) to aknowledge... but i sadly know that you never really take the time to read the comment section.
Even if you tell us to leave one down below...🙃
4:37
SERIOUSLY DUDE?!?!! 🧐🙄🤔🤨😣😔🤷
" Electical...."
OMG....
Look at this time clock..😆😖
Please tell me that this is a "re-run" of your old videos...
Nobody buy's those mechanical shit anymore.
They do. It's cheap and effective.
@@IceBergGeoyes but always have to reset time in case of power failure or seasonal time changes.
Digital electronic ones have time memory and are much smaller. Fits into 1gang box. And have same load ampacity as the big mechanical ones
@@martf1061 you are correct... Mostly.... Those big mechanical ones are rated at 30A. And most of them are two pole. Those little ones are neither.
The other bad part about them, some at least, is you have to replace the battery inside every so often. And they are more subject to failure.
You have to take the good and the bad with each.
@@IceBergGeo of course
@@martf1061 And one short circuit on the load wiring, or a local power surge fries the electronic timer, which uses a triac, rather than a mechanical contact, to switch the load.