Adam Savage's One Day Repairs: Cleaning Micrometer Gauges
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- This weekend's project is a recovery from a recent mistake, as Adam has to undo a his first attempt at cleaning his set of micrometer screw gauges in which he used too much oil! Fixing that screw up is going to require taking all of these pieces apart, soak them in some wd-40, reapply the correct amount of machine oil, and then testing their precision. Grab a chair and a snack and hang out in the cave for this satisfying process!
Adam's Micrometer Gauge Box build: • Adam Savage's One Day ...
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#AdamSavage
Adam, hope we can get you in for a visit some day. Would love for you to tour our repair center and calibration lab.
This would be an amazing place to see featured.
Hey Mitu with the regular inside, outside, depth calipers there is a recess on both the inside and outside jaws near the long leg. So far no one knows why they are there. Are these for dust & dirt buildup?
This would be awesome!!!!!
Yes please!
Updoot
"We don't make how to videos so much as we make what happened videos. What almost always happens is mistakes and screw ups."
I really enjoy this fact about your videos. Things go wrong, mistakes get made and accidents happens. When they do, you're honest and upfront about it, and then you fix it. Well done Sir.
I've learned a lot more from other people's mistakes than from my own successes. These "I made a mistake, here's how to fix it" video's are very valuable.
I have that same set in my service truck. As a mobile mechanic/millwright it's funny to see how careful he handles them! After 15 years of bouncing around in a truck, in and out of -40°c weather and with zero maintenance, I have never had an issue with them. Unreal built instruments
Dude, this is what I'm talking about. Buy the best (my opinion is Mitutoyo measurement tools are the best), and you will have them for a long time, which makes them a great value even though they might be a little more expensive at first.
As Marty said in Back to the Future 3. "All the best stuff is made in Japan"
Buy the best but have something cheap ready for jank
We were going through the electrics and my $15 multimeter got a 2 cm long arc between the wires (rubber/air) on a supposed 400v line
What are these gauges? How are they used? I have basic high school science knowledge 🙈
@@wordsinahandle these specifically measure the outside dimension of something. You put the object between the two ends, and then twist the silver thing. It's threaded so it'll close down onto the part until it's touching and making that clicking noise. Then you read the lines on the side of the barrel and if you know how to read one it'll tell you very precisely how big that dimension is.
I love this channel. I actually bought that knight lighter, and I restored it following along your video, and now everyone asks about him sitting on a table in our foyer! His name is Chuck.
Very cool!
Could have named him Michael? Then he would be Michael Knight from Knight Rider!
That's SIR Chuck to YOU!
Ive used Starrett Tool and Instrument Oil for 40 years, Adam. I call it "liquid silk" and use it on all my calipers, micrometers, and fine measuring tools. I even put a single drop on the gear mechanisms of my parents Grandfather Clock once a year. So good to see someone as intellectual as you explore Metrology. You certainly don't hear the word much less see TH-cam videos on the subject every day.
I just use ordinary very light, and pure, oil. There is nothing special about the Starrett oil, unless you compare it to motor oil. There are many fine oils that readily oxidise, and also evaporate without leaving a gummy deposit.
It's about as rare as seeing correct torquing
Then again, the torque wrenches and drivers needed are ~$1700
@@willthecat3861 "pure oil." LOL. That means absolutely nothing. When you change your car oil... Nevermind that's not a good example, because your probably say, "Yeah, I just use pure oil." You use the specific oil that is meant for the job. You just happened to find one that is suitable for this kind of task; with through luck or trial and error.
@@littlejackalo5326 Pure oil, simply means, any suitable oil, that is not blended with other oils, does not contain additives, or has not been modified. Yes, believe it or not there are such things as pure oils. Almost unanimously engine oils are not pure oils. Pure oils have a certain viscosity, density, boiling point, and so on. Sometimes it is a range, especially if it is a natural product. But, the properties are well known. Such oils are classified as pure. Pure silicon oil is such an oil. Pure mineral oil is also such a thing. Pure rape seed oil (not blended rape seed oil), pure linseed oil. Do you need more explanation.
Cleaning them ultrasonically is how I have been taught. I’m an engineering apprentice and you get dead on 0’s every time. Don’t do it when pieces are still connected (especially when threaded) together because otherwise the threads/connections will wear down due to the vibrations of ultrasonic.
Same reason you don't clean bearings ultrasonically. One of the forums I'm on had people arguing that it was ok, so I ran a few samples through the tank and cut them open. Totally ruined as expected!
I clean them with diet coke and mentos
I cleaned mine ultrasonically in pieces with water+simple green and they're all dead-on and repeatable. I wouldn't do it with any threads engaged together or it might cause vibratory wear.
As a quality engineer who taught herself how to repair measurement equipment…this video made me problematically excited!
6:00 -- The kind of horror story precision engineers tell around the camp fire.
"And then. And then. The monster picked up a random bottle of grease without checking its suitability."
[horrified intake of breath from audience]
"And he slathered it all over the tool!"
one time I greased the scissors of a hedge trimmer. I was so proud of myself for choosing a thicker lubricant that would last.......squeezed the trigger and ruined the blade connection to the little motor :(
Hahaha, this gave me a laugh!
Don’t mess with a machinist and their tools. It’s a thing. New guys come into my shop asking to borrow someone’s mics and they are not well received. I keep a cheap set for the new guys that come through so they don’t drive us crazy
12:06 That was the most jarring shot in Tested history. I like it!
I love this channel so much. It is such a safe easy space to spend some time. It doesn’t matter what Adam is doing, I find it fascinating. Thanks to all involved with this amazing channel!
Adam, another good cleaner to remove hydrocarbon-based lubricants is Heptane. We use it to clean precision bearings for use in space hardware, inside a class 10,000 clean room. Using Teflon tools, we sonicate the bearing balls and races in100% Heptane.
Yeah but they sell wd at Lowe's
@@Arcticroberto9376 FYI a product called "Bestine" solvent and thinner for rubber cement is straight industrial grade heptane.
I refurbish metrology and machine tools as a hobby. Gun bore brushes are invaluable for cleaning threaded holes and getting into small places (like the inside of the thimble). I have a set of nylon ones and a set of brass. They are infinitely more durable and effective than generic "bottle brushes". Also, for final cleaning and/or lubricating, the "micro brushes" used for touch up paint and in the cosmetics industry are outstanding. They "fit" neatly between just using a needle-dropper bottle and something like watch oilers. Much more control over where the lube goes (and how much), and the don't drop fibers like a q-tip.
Yeah those q-tips do the job but the odds of leaving fibres behind is just too great. Appreciate the tip about fine brushes.
Not to mention the ever handy as heck AR-15 tooth brush. with the little skinny end.
I would recommend locking down the standard in a v-block or your micrometer stand and holding the micrometer in your hands holding the fixed end to the standard and then using just your pointer finger and thumb along the thimble not using the ratchet move your hand in a circular motion to find the top of the convex edge of the standard doing this will allow to build up a feel with you micrometer in which would allow to to measure things much more accurately....just a thought from a fellow machinist
If your mics dont gauge test 0, there's a spanner wrench for mics that lets you turn the barrel to get the vernier to line up. Usually done if there is anvil wear.
Or after the micrometer has been used as a precision G-clamp.
(You do know that the small pointy jaws on a caliper are used for don't you? Chipping off welding slag of course.)
@@morriewyatt6234 they are, indeed, quite hard. =)
If you have enough wear on carbide anvils to warrant adjustment: A) you're not being very careful, and B) the faces are guaranteed to no longer be parallel! I have a Etalon that was new in about 1976, has seen lots of careful use, and still reads dead on.
@@componenx loan them to an apprentice and you might find an anvil missing (that actually happened, not to mine thankfully)
Adam, What you should make is a very small tube to fit over the bottom anvil of the micrometers. You could then slip it over the anvil and then slip the bottom of the standard into the top of the tube. This would eliminate your fiddling with your fingers to try to hold the bottom of the standard square on the anvil. You could make it out of a rubber hose or a soft metal. Dan.
Or 3D print it.
Yes, but he only ever uses these micrometers to clean them, oil them, calibrate them or build a box for them, so it doesn’t really matter.
If you know what you are doing the tube is not necessary, skill is all the is required.
Only Adam could make repairing and earlier error mesmerising to watch.
Thanks Adam. I purchased 3 micrometers last month. Now I know how to clean them and care for them.
The gummy brown deposit is the result of the oil oxidising, and also the lighter components of the oil evaporating and leaving behind the thicker components of the oil.
Hey Adam, like many here I’m a quality technician at a machine shop (and a mechanical engineer) and work with these tools daily. I haven’t seen anyone here mention this yet but when ratcheting your micrometers you only want “ratchet” or “click” a maximum of 3 times. I get onto our machinists almost daily for cranking away on that ratchet micrometer. It’ll usually only effect your measurement by a few ten thousandths but as we all know, sometimes that will give you an out of tolerance measurement. Love your videos!
What oil was used the last time these were cleaned? It looks like cosmoline 😕
Cool! I've found a great way to clean the carbide faces is to clamp on a piece of paper gently, and pull the paper out. This removes all oil, dirt, etc, and makes the zero much more repeatable.
That HammerTone green is SO PRETTY. Wish I could find it in more colours where I am.
Adam
After cleaning with WD-40, it is a good idea to flush the WD-40 out/off with something like acetone or some de-greaser before applying the final lube. Starrett oil is fine, but many folks prefer a synthetic watch oil (Mobius?)
John
So basically, just use acetone or de-greaser, and leave the wd-40 on the shelf. Acetone > kerosene wd-40
@@MattsInTheBelfry WD-40, the Duct Tape of solvents/lubricants 🙂
you saw him using compressed air to blow out the solvents. nothing additional is necessary the wd40 is gone.
@@quinn10ification it's not a lubricant
@@quinn10ification WD40 is as much of a lubricant as peanut butter; works just as well too. Though both are lubricants by strictest of definitions (I.e. they will reduce coefficient of friction between surfaces) they are quite terrible at it. 😝👍
Adam Savage's One Day -Repairs- ASMR
(Edit: Okay but fr I find cleaning stuff like this so satisfying)
When I check my mics with standards I give the standard a little spin. It seams to help Center it.
I clean my standards with 220 grit sandpaper before I use them
That was so soothing to watch.
Neat to see something I use daily as a topic.
Hi Adam the WD40 degreaser spray is great for that sort of job,really good for degreasing precision instruments,really enjoy all your one day builds.
If you didn't use WD-40, you wouldn't need to clean it. I don't let WD-40 near any kind of precision instrument. It's an oxidizing oil, it will react with atmospheric oxygen and turn into a varnish, which is what gums them up. It's a lousy lubricant. Its only good use is cleaning off old WD-40. Use a good watch or instrument oil, applied sparingly (with a toothpick, not a dropper), keep the instruments dust free, and you won't need to re-lubricate for many years.
Camp stove fuel to clean. Turbine oil to lubricate. Works fine for my stuff.
I found WD40 to be a terrible lubricant. It is however, a great cleaner of petroleum products and not too bad when drilling soft, thin metals.
It's not a lubricant, it's a anti corrosion cleaning solvent designed to be sprayed on US rockets on the launch pad.
WD for water dispenser ;-)
@@yvanvk That word does not mean what you think it does. :-(
should also see if you can find an optical flat set and monochromatic light to check the flatness of the anvil and spindle, when you get there.
I was just thinking about the oil and other stains on your leather bench covering, and it occurred to me that when you need to replace it, you should auction off sections to Tested fans who could then own a bit of Adam Savage's workshop history :)
Getting some leather key chains would be awesome
Those gungy cotton bud images - remember the myth busters earwax candles?
My first boss always said, "Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, and cut it with an axe". Funny thing, there were only the three of us who knew what a micrometer was. It was our secret, as real engineers.
Oh my gosh that hit just right 🤣🤣🤣
That's a funny looking set of hammers.
😮 some almost not turnable 😮 ... I was almost thinking that WD 40 would have been a better oil than whatever you used before , glad you got some quality machine oil on them now
I love mitutoyo micrometers. Someday I will have up to the full 12" set. So far I only have 0-1" up to 3-4"
Great start!
I enjoy those close up shots a lot. I just wish the camera angle was a little better to actually watch what you were doing when cleaning. Very satisfying to have them all clean I'm sure.
As a Millwright or machinist, the spindle should not spin freely like a top. There should be the slightest amount of drag to minimize backlash in the spindle threads. There is a nut that acts like a collet for the female threads in the frame side. Uses the same spanner for calibrating the datum line on the sleeve.
When using your standards, slowly roll the standard while turning the spindle. When the ratchet clicks, stop after a couple clicks, otherwise it can act similar to an impact gun ( small scale ) and cause a few 10 thousands of an in error.
The click on these things is unbelievably satisfying
Bit heavy handed there with those precision instruments
please, next time you go putting rubber feet on vintage woodwork, drill pilot holes. made me crack myself when you jammed those screws in. OUCHIE!
I would've labeled them off of the lower limit. 7-8" would be #7. If you have a 7.###" measurement you grab # 7. Would also remind you which calibration standard to use. Would just start at #0 instead of #1
Yep, I thought that was kind of weird myself.
And if someone asked me to grab a #7 or #8 Mic.....I'd have to ask "do you mean a 7-8 Mic?" HAHA
Did I miss what kind of oil NOT to use?
Saw the oil TO use...
On the brown and sharpe calipers you and also use the jaw end side as a depth gauge.
Only suggestion I have if you're measuring really close tolerances use blue shop towels to clean with as they tend to not leave behind all the fuzz etc like standard white paper towels I use paper towels for general stuff then have blue shop towels I keep put away for use on machinists stuff as well as paper for cleaning anvils 👍👍👍
You're not calibrating anything... didn't even read the vernier scale to check for tenths of a thousandth.
Always a pleasure to visit your shop though!
For Pete's sake, what oil did you use when you first restored these? I'm not sure I even have oil that can get this gooey, even way oil or dark cutting oil. Maybe 0W-40 (after 15,000 miles)?
There's a reason why locksmiths etc /never/ use oil (even finest machine/instrument oil) as a lubricant! Vintage tools/locks used graphite dust (now available in spray cans), but if all you want is a decent non-sticky lubricant silicone/teflon spray is adequate
Just curious: What oil was used in your initial clean/ oiling? The stuff has definitely turned to goo!
I was wondering that as soon as I saw all that varnish that it turned into. Clearly not an appropriate "oil" for precision tools.
He’s a fan of Molly D machine oil..maybe that?
WD-40 probably isn't the best solvent. It leaves a film that both collects debris and oxidizes over time, causing a buildup of orange gunk. For straight cleaning i prefer non-florinated brake cleaner as it is inexpensive and easy to come by in both the spray bottles and gallon jugs (typically under the trade name acetone). Naphtha is better for working indoors as it doesn't vaporize as fast but is harder to come by.
I have heard it said that WD-40 is the duck tape of lubrication. It is a multipurpose cleaning and lubricating product but I would put i in the lower class of even that. If you want the equivalent of gaffer's tape I would recommend Rem Oil.
Q tips are actually the worst to use for any type of cleaning, they leave behind the little cotton strands which gather every particulate.
Use kitchen tissue and do not rip it, use a side that is not ripped and curl that sucker up til it's a smaller diameter than the hole you're cleaning, use wd40 to lift oils and particulates from the surface of whatever you're cleaning and then rotate and slightly stuff the hole with the kitchen tissue, repeating this process until nothing comes out of the hole. Finish off with a last spray of wd40 and then some thin weight watch oil, thin synthetic transmission fluid, or actual branded micrometer oil from the likes of Mitutoyo
Hey Adam, have you ever looked at the forgotten Star Wars ships youtube series done by EC Henry? The level of detail is amazing
I have the Mitotoyo mics with the analog, digital readout (the rolling numbers display). I wish I could find info on taking them apart to clean. The spindle backs out, but only so far!
never use that oil that is made from soybeans. It works great for a few months. Then becomes glue. I also found cleaning these thing in my ultrasonic cleaner made them super clean. I used a light oil that smells like banana's. I forget the name, they use it for bike chains. Seems to work well.
I just used a little bit of motor oil on mine they are so smooth now lol
Electronics cleaner would also work well to remove the old oil. Gun cleaning swabs can also be low lint with special rods for cleaning tubes that might work well for things like this.
He's in California. Buying anything remotely related to guns would attract protestors marching in front of the cave.
Here’s and old trick to be proficient and quick with micrometers.
Roll the thimble along your hand or forearm for large adjustments. You can travel a micrometer’s full range in 3-4 swipes.
Just try not to slam into the minimum or maximum end when doing this.
Automatic transmission fluid will strip off any sort of gummy deposits and not leave residue.
It might strip off paint as well, so be judicious in application.
Gloves, of course, as the stuff strips off skin oils.
Brake fluid has been know to clean things up as well.
New fluids only: used fluids may have picked up some nasty stuff.
yay tool maintenance!
Super satisfying...
That "micrometer stand" really look like it could have benefited from a "third hand". :)
Does professional hair clipper oil work ok on this stuff? My uncle used that on his tools because he bought it in bulk.
Ballistol vs WD-40 vs PB Blaster? also ive seen something called "Perfect WE-60" in mexico, that gave me a good laugh lololool
I've done everyone of those badges.
WD-40.... Yes!
Calibrate good times come on!
I was taught to always use 3 clicks, this would give more accurate measuring results because you always use the same force in the gauge (assuming it is well oiled :p).
Proving once again, experts can make mistakes. And that is just fine.
It looks like someone lubricated the micrometers with Cosmoline; then cleaning with WD-40 is just as bad (WD-40 has an acidic content). I clean with Mitutoyo tool and gauge cleaner then light coat with a Swiss watch oil. I also keep a small square of rust preventive paper with the micrometers in their cases. For me the hardest micrometers to clean are the three point / position internal micrometers. Seeing that dark brown goop on the micrometer's spindle looked like someone was out to destroy the tool! ☹️
Not sure what bit that is in the power drill , but seems a little aggressive for these precision mics
Adam can you please build a cool yoyo with your twist?
I recently rebuilt mine using Super Lube PTFE synthetic grease and it’s perfect. Hits the zero tick mark dead on every time. Careful cleaning them as the painted numbers will wear off quickly (in my experience the paint actually separate entirely). However, some Testors enamel paint and a swipe with a rag with mineral spirits made it good as new.
7:58 Don't hold your air hose there, lol
i would have used a tool washer so i did not leve any scratches
also any defects are already done because of the oil used
Was the video of improving the gauge box removed from YT?
I use non-gumming oil in my mikes... Gun oil or dry lube PTFE.
I have the same mic’s up to 6”. Similarly, My case is near identical!
Wd-40 gets gummy very fast
So in what scenario would you use those?
Starrett oil will coagulate into brown goo after a couple decades. Singer sewing machine oil might actually be a better choice, it stays fresh for 100 years.
it would have been cool if you used guage blocks to calibrate these.
why is it with magnetic indicator bases looses all magnetism if you take it apart to clean them?????
I'm just curious why you didn't use alcohol to clean them, or do them in an ultrasonic cleaner (disassembled to prevent wear)
Have you considered having an inspection service certify all of your metrology tools?
No need. He has standards that will get him an order of magnitude closer than the work he'll be able to do. He's not sending people to the moon with a $1M CNC machine.
Starret oil is just mineral oil. Same thing you're probably using to lube your sewing machine except it costs 10% what Starret charges for their stuff. And all it takes is half a drop.
Probably right, but using something that is recommended by a reputable manufacturer really gives you peace of mind. There’s too much advice out there: you ask 10 people and get 12 different recommendations - that’s no good, so you just buy the brand thing.
Starrett oil is specifically a low viscosity mineral oil, CAS 8042-47-5. Sewing machine oil is generally CAS 64742-65-0, which is a higher viscosity. It's probably not very significant for Adam, but it's not exactly the same thing, either.
You used Starret oil on a Mututoyo?! That's why it broke 🤣
Adam what were you THINKING
I just bought a micrometer but it doesn’t want to move very well and I don’t know how to calibrate it
Did you use wd-40?
“Jeezum crow” - are you from Vermont?
Missing subtitles for * Adam noises * xD
"a gummy, greasy glue" sounds like a terrible gum, a terrible grease, and a terrible glue
I was wondering what drill attachment Adam was using to cleaning
Looked like just a round brush he stuck in the chuck.
I missed any explanation there might have been as to what was chucked in his drill and what he was doing with it.... ???
That's what I was wondering too. Probably a small bottle brush or Q-tip? :shrug:
Having to turn down the volume on this video, others might not understand what I'm watching 😀
Hi Adam
What was you using when you used the drill. Was it a buffing implement attached to the drill.
Cheers
Colonel Ga-Taffy 🏴 Cardiff
Do u take one all the way apart... Cause that's what I need help with
Could you have used isopropyl alcohol to remove the old oil?
Better solvents for oil would be stoddard solvent (the solvent part of WD40), camp stove fuel (aka white gas), kerosene, or similar. Then use a non-drying light mineral oil or turbine oil as lubricant and rust inhibitor.
You should trie use Kroil.
You know its bad when you can still see it at 144p resolution.