Hey Mitu with the regular inside, outside, depth calipers there is a recess on both the inside and outside jaws near the long leg. So far no one knows why they are there. Are these for dust & dirt buildup?
"We don't make how to videos so much as we make what happened videos. What almost always happens is mistakes and screw ups." I really enjoy this fact about your videos. Things go wrong, mistakes get made and accidents happens. When they do, you're honest and upfront about it, and then you fix it. Well done Sir.
I've learned a lot more from other people's mistakes than from my own successes. These "I made a mistake, here's how to fix it" video's are very valuable.
I have that same set in my service truck. As a mobile mechanic/millwright it's funny to see how careful he handles them! After 15 years of bouncing around in a truck, in and out of -40°c weather and with zero maintenance, I have never had an issue with them. Unreal built instruments
Dude, this is what I'm talking about. Buy the best (my opinion is Mitutoyo measurement tools are the best), and you will have them for a long time, which makes them a great value even though they might be a little more expensive at first.
Buy the best but have something cheap ready for jank We were going through the electrics and my $15 multimeter got a 2 cm long arc between the wires (rubber/air) on a supposed 400v line
@@wordsinahandle these specifically measure the outside dimension of something. You put the object between the two ends, and then twist the silver thing. It's threaded so it'll close down onto the part until it's touching and making that clicking noise. Then you read the lines on the side of the barrel and if you know how to read one it'll tell you very precisely how big that dimension is.
I love this channel. I actually bought that knight lighter, and I restored it following along your video, and now everyone asks about him sitting on a table in our foyer! His name is Chuck.
Ive used Starrett Tool and Instrument Oil for 40 years, Adam. I call it "liquid silk" and use it on all my calipers, micrometers, and fine measuring tools. I even put a single drop on the gear mechanisms of my parents Grandfather Clock once a year. So good to see someone as intellectual as you explore Metrology. You certainly don't hear the word much less see TH-cam videos on the subject every day.
I just use ordinary very light, and pure, oil. There is nothing special about the Starrett oil, unless you compare it to motor oil. There are many fine oils that readily oxidise, and also evaporate without leaving a gummy deposit.
@@willthecat3861 "pure oil." LOL. That means absolutely nothing. When you change your car oil... Nevermind that's not a good example, because your probably say, "Yeah, I just use pure oil." You use the specific oil that is meant for the job. You just happened to find one that is suitable for this kind of task; with through luck or trial and error.
@@littlejackalo5326 Pure oil, simply means, any suitable oil, that is not blended with other oils, does not contain additives, or has not been modified. Yes, believe it or not there are such things as pure oils. Almost unanimously engine oils are not pure oils. Pure oils have a certain viscosity, density, boiling point, and so on. Sometimes it is a range, especially if it is a natural product. But, the properties are well known. Such oils are classified as pure. Pure silicon oil is such an oil. Pure mineral oil is also such a thing. Pure rape seed oil (not blended rape seed oil), pure linseed oil. Do you need more explanation.
Yes your pronunciation is correct. Metrology is my world and I love it. If you ever need anything calibrated to unreasonably accurate tolerances, let me know!
I worked in a metrology lab for 5 years, calibrating and cleaning all of our Machinist's micrometers etc. I used basically the same stuff, starrett tool and instrument oil in little yellow bottle. Very nicely thin lubrication.
I cleaned mine ultrasonically in pieces with water+simple green and they're all dead-on and repeatable. I wouldn't do it with any threads engaged together or it might cause vibratory wear.
Thank you Adam, for sharing your mistake. Many men are to proud or arrogant to do such a thing. It is a amazing quality to share ones mistakes in an effort to educate others. Thank you Adam. 🐸
Cleaning them ultrasonically is how I have been taught. I’m an engineering apprentice and you get dead on 0’s every time. Don’t do it when pieces are still connected (especially when threaded) together because otherwise the threads/connections will wear down due to the vibrations of ultrasonic.
Same reason you don't clean bearings ultrasonically. One of the forums I'm on had people arguing that it was ok, so I ran a few samples through the tank and cut them open. Totally ruined as expected!
I love this channel so much. It is such a safe easy space to spend some time. It doesn’t matter what Adam is doing, I find it fascinating. Thanks to all involved with this amazing channel!
Adam puts out the most content! I love it. He lives the life I dream about. Building, fixing, improving, collecting and creating tools. It is inspiring. I can't wait to buy my own home so I can have my own cave to create. Currently my garage sized shed has no power, light fixtures, insulation, or outlets. I rent my current house but man the space would be perfect!
I refurbish metrology and machine tools as a hobby. Gun bore brushes are invaluable for cleaning threaded holes and getting into small places (like the inside of the thimble). I have a set of nylon ones and a set of brass. They are infinitely more durable and effective than generic "bottle brushes". Also, for final cleaning and/or lubricating, the "micro brushes" used for touch up paint and in the cosmetics industry are outstanding. They "fit" neatly between just using a needle-dropper bottle and something like watch oilers. Much more control over where the lube goes (and how much), and the don't drop fibers like a q-tip.
Adam, another good cleaner to remove hydrocarbon-based lubricants is Heptane. We use it to clean precision bearings for use in space hardware, inside a class 10,000 clean room. Using Teflon tools, we sonicate the bearing balls and races in100% Heptane.
I sell and repair gages(I’ve been to Mitutoyo’s repair department in City of Industry, CA) for a living, you did a great job! I would use a degreaser for cleaning instead of WD, but otherwise perfectly fine job. And the Starrett tool oil is exactly the right lubricant to use.
6:00 -- The kind of horror story precision engineers tell around the camp fire. "And then. And then. The monster picked up a random bottle of grease without checking its suitability." [horrified intake of breath from audience] "And he slathered it all over the tool!"
one time I greased the scissors of a hedge trimmer. I was so proud of myself for choosing a thicker lubricant that would last.......squeezed the trigger and ruined the blade connection to the little motor :(
Don’t mess with a machinist and their tools. It’s a thing. New guys come into my shop asking to borrow someone’s mics and they are not well received. I keep a cheap set for the new guys that come through so they don’t drive us crazy
To clean old oils I've used brake cleaner. I know it's nasty stuff but it does a great job of breaking down bad oils and grease. It was invaluable when I was tearing down /reassembling the fine threads on a lathe collet chuck.
I would recommend locking down the standard in a v-block or your micrometer stand and holding the micrometer in your hands holding the fixed end to the standard and then using just your pointer finger and thumb along the thimble not using the ratchet move your hand in a circular motion to find the top of the convex edge of the standard doing this will allow to build up a feel with you micrometer in which would allow to to measure things much more accurately....just a thought from a fellow machinist
Just got a vintage Craftsman USA made 1" micrometer and it was all gummed up. So happy I found this video. Thanks Jamie and keep spreading the knowledge!!! 😊😊😊
If your mics dont gauge test 0, there's a spanner wrench for mics that lets you turn the barrel to get the vernier to line up. Usually done if there is anvil wear.
Or after the micrometer has been used as a precision G-clamp. (You do know that the small pointy jaws on a caliper are used for don't you? Chipping off welding slag of course.)
If you have enough wear on carbide anvils to warrant adjustment: A) you're not being very careful, and B) the faces are guaranteed to no longer be parallel! I have a Etalon that was new in about 1976, has seen lots of careful use, and still reads dead on.
Anybody else giggle at about 7:50 mark when he put the air hose between his legs and just stood there, or am I just the only one:)! Great video, very informative!
Adam, What you should make is a very small tube to fit over the bottom anvil of the micrometers. You could then slip it over the anvil and then slip the bottom of the standard into the top of the tube. This would eliminate your fiddling with your fingers to try to hold the bottom of the standard square on the anvil. You could make it out of a rubber hose or a soft metal. Dan.
I inherited a single 1" Starrett 230 mic from my dad. He was a saw filer at a mill for almost 30 years with that, and a former timber faller for 20 before the mill. Fantastic man, but tool maintenance wasn't his thing. Poor mic was FILTHY inside, and very rough and sloppy action (for a precision instrument). I tried a few cleaning methods, and finally stumbled on some easy, effective advice: Brake cleaner. Got all the crud out of the barrel and spindle-carrier brilliantly. I did have to gingerly tighten up the tension collet on the spindle-carrier threads, and it took a few tries until I had it riding that knife-edge between no resistance and no movement. Putting it back together, I rubbed a drop of Marvel Mystery Oil on my fingers so I could leave no more than a sheen on most parts (like the cam lock). I've sworn by MMO since my A&P tech school. One drop of MMO on the threads, ran the threads from one end to the other several times, wiped off the excess a couple times from the outer threads of the spindle... and it was ready! It's very silky now, with just a bit of carry-spin when I give it a flick, and no looseness. Did have to spanner-turn the barrel - it was about .0004 out of zero, but now it repro's on 0.000 and 1.000 beautifully. (No vernier.)
I love the epic tool cleaning music that fades in and out then goes for it towards the end of the video. Everyone needs an epic soundtrack for tool cleaning. 😆
Cool! I've found a great way to clean the carbide faces is to clamp on a piece of paper gently, and pull the paper out. This removes all oil, dirt, etc, and makes the zero much more repeatable.
Electronics cleaner would also work well to remove the old oil. Gun cleaning swabs can also be low lint with special rods for cleaning tubes that might work well for things like this.
If you didn't use WD-40, you wouldn't need to clean it. I don't let WD-40 near any kind of precision instrument. It's an oxidizing oil, it will react with atmospheric oxygen and turn into a varnish, which is what gums them up. It's a lousy lubricant. Its only good use is cleaning off old WD-40. Use a good watch or instrument oil, applied sparingly (with a toothpick, not a dropper), keep the instruments dust free, and you won't need to re-lubricate for many years.
I have a vintage watchmakers bench micrometer (has a built in stand and is in metric) I completely restored it so it looks vintage still but has a hammered paint finish now instead of the black finish it originally had. Much nicer to use. I also have a holder like you are using to hold the micrometers in this video.
The gummy brown deposit is the result of the oil oxidising, and also the lighter components of the oil evaporating and leaving behind the thicker components of the oil.
At 9:40 in this 18:41 video I have not seen what you are doing with the drill, air, swabs, the disassembly process, where you apply the good oil. I need to do this with my one 4 to 5", but I am none the wiser. I also need to straighten a bent ratchet shaft. How?
For Pete's sake, what oil did you use when you first restored these? I'm not sure I even have oil that can get this gooey, even way oil or dark cutting oil. Maybe 0W-40 (after 15,000 miles)?
Hey Adam, like many here I’m a quality technician at a machine shop (and a mechanical engineer) and work with these tools daily. I haven’t seen anyone here mention this yet but when ratcheting your micrometers you only want “ratchet” or “click” a maximum of 3 times. I get onto our machinists almost daily for cranking away on that ratchet micrometer. It’ll usually only effect your measurement by a few ten thousandths but as we all know, sometimes that will give you an out of tolerance measurement. Love your videos!
I have the Mitotoyo mics with the analog, digital readout (the rolling numbers display). I wish I could find info on taking them apart to clean. The spindle backs out, but only so far!
As a Millwright or machinist, the spindle should not spin freely like a top. There should be the slightest amount of drag to minimize backlash in the spindle threads. There is a nut that acts like a collet for the female threads in the frame side. Uses the same spanner for calibrating the datum line on the sleeve. When using your standards, slowly roll the standard while turning the spindle. When the ratchet clicks, stop after a couple clicks, otherwise it can act similar to an impact gun ( small scale ) and cause a few 10 thousands of an in error.
Adam After cleaning with WD-40, it is a good idea to flush the WD-40 out/off with something like acetone or some de-greaser before applying the final lube. Starrett oil is fine, but many folks prefer a synthetic watch oil (Mobius?) John
@@quinn10ification WD40 is as much of a lubricant as peanut butter; works just as well too. Though both are lubricants by strictest of definitions (I.e. they will reduce coefficient of friction between surfaces) they are quite terrible at it. 😝👍
it looked like what he was using for finishing in the drill was a nylon bristle pipe cleaner, and he was using the linty stuff for more bulk removal. Lint should mostly be removed by the next spray/drill/air cycle before he does final lube. But I may have missed something.
My ocd was kicking in right around 4:50 where there's a little spec of dirt that didn't get wiped away on your 8in. Love your videos tho. As an engineer, I wish I had all the wonderful tools you've been working with in my personal collection too.
"Antique" shops, marketplace, flea markets, pawn shops, and swap meets can have nice tools that aren't worn out but you have to have used these tools so that you know what not to buy; like 6" calipers. They're usually worn down on the tips of the O.D. or sometimes the I.D. points are bent.
😮 some almost not turnable 😮 ... I was almost thinking that WD 40 would have been a better oil than whatever you used before , glad you got some quality machine oil on them now
I enjoy those close up shots a lot. I just wish the camera angle was a little better to actually watch what you were doing when cleaning. Very satisfying to have them all clean I'm sure.
The best mic stand is your own beer belly as a rest for the static side of the mic. With the mic resting on you belly you can hold the mic in one hand and the gage in another and get a good feel for the mic's anvils to make a proper parallel connection with the 8" gage. You can feel it when the anvils make contact with the gage at an angle and stop. This will make for an inaccurate measurement. On the other hand when the mic's anvils and the gage meet and the surfaces contacting are parallel this feels much different and you can have confidence that you are getting a good reading. Then again I use a mic everyday and "its a feel thing" is calibrated over time.
The number of synchronicities with this channel lately has been bizarre. I JUST finished cleaning my 60/70 year old Mitutoyo micrometer an hour ago. It was my father's so it has some extra value to me. It was so stiff, the ratchet was clicking long before the minimum measurement and even using the gross adjuster took serious effort. The tolerances of these things are absolutely astonishing! There was but the most minor of yellow film on mine (more a stain then an actual physical build up, and that's all it took to prevent functioning. I cleaned it up with a pipe cleaner and varsol and it's good to go. I can't see investing in the lube as it will now outlast me by many years and it's the only one I have so I left a fine film of WD40 (I know it's not REALLY a lubricant). Dead accurate still but I want to find one of the tiny wrenches for zeroing it out. Dream tool, caliper with Imperial and Metric readouts. Hit me up if you have one!
I was just thinking about the oil and other stains on your leather bench covering, and it occurred to me that when you need to replace it, you should auction off sections to Tested fans who could then own a bit of Adam Savage's workshop history :)
You really missed an important piece of upkeep…once they are cleaned and you checked the accuracy of each tool, how do you adjust them if the mic is out of calibration?
It varies slightly from brand to brand, but for most you use a small "pin spanner"-style wrench to rotate the sleeve of the thimble (the part with the markings) until your 0's match up. You need a calibrated standard (the black sticks he was using) as a reference. On higher-end mics, the correct wrench and standard are often included, or available as an accessory. Standards are pretty "generic" in that you just need one the correct size and spec for your mic (brand doesn't matter), but the wrenches can be pretty brand/model-specific.
"Shop maintenance always feels really good" => I buy used broken tools to have the joy of doing maintenance on them. Feels and smells better than unboxing new. :D
Only suggestion I have if you're measuring really close tolerances use blue shop towels to clean with as they tend to not leave behind all the fuzz etc like standard white paper towels I use paper towels for general stuff then have blue shop towels I keep put away for use on machinists stuff as well as paper for cleaning anvils 👍👍👍
I would've labeled them off of the lower limit. 7-8" would be #7. If you have a 7.###" measurement you grab # 7. Would also remind you which calibration standard to use. Would just start at #0 instead of #1
Calibration Technician for an aerospace engineering company here, please don't just test the minimum point on these and assume that's all good. The zero might me right but the rate of change could be off entirely. Ideally you should check using gauge blocks all along the entire scale, there are even pre-made gauge block sets specifically for this purpose, but I would suggest at least testing the minimum and maximum ends of the scales. Also, I suggest spinning the setting rods at the same time as engaging the ratchet, it helps centre and square it and can help to remove any air pockets caught between the surfaces that might throw off your readings. Love the video, and love seeing you branching into metrology.
My first boss always said, "Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, and cut it with an axe". Funny thing, there were only the three of us who knew what a micrometer was. It was our secret, as real engineers.
just a suggestion: use Ballistol vs WD-40. Don't get me wrong, WD-40 is a wonderful all around lub/cleaner, it just needs to be reapplied yearly. Ballistol is considered a 'white' oil. It's popular to both clean and oil metal in gun smithing. I can personally attest that I use it on my own tools and guns. I realize a lot of people don't like guns, so I don't need the negative responses regarding that; however, even when I use it on my tools I don't have to re-address them for years. As I live in MI and the temps vary alot more than CA: condensation occurs multiple times per year in my garage and house.
@@mikem5475 that's why I ask. I can't think of an oil that gums up like that either. And I doubt Adam would spread veg. oil all over his prized calibers.
@@jrobinson953 In a bag of things thrown out by an old hardware store were two cans, seemingly from the early 90's. One was an aerosol "soy oil" and the other "soylvent". One heavy spray oil and the other one oil with solvent like wd40. At one time they used to be a "healthy" and "eco friendly" version. But right on the can of the soy oil it says not food safe and wash skin after contact. They seemed to work alright, but they stunk and I threw them out after learning of estrogenic chemicals used in soybean production. I've accidentally used vegetable oil in a mechanical keyboard and it ruined it within months. Horrible mistake. I would imagine that it'd be good for chains, because of how it gums
Automatic transmission fluid will strip off any sort of gummy deposits and not leave residue. It might strip off paint as well, so be judicious in application. Gloves, of course, as the stuff strips off skin oils. Brake fluid has been know to clean things up as well. New fluids only: used fluids may have picked up some nasty stuff.
Regular cleaning with wd40 seems too work best for me. I'm a machinist and I use my calipers and mics quite often. Just spray em down, wipe away the excess and then kinda blow em dry with your air hose.
Here’s and old trick to be proficient and quick with micrometers. Roll the thimble along your hand or forearm for large adjustments. You can travel a micrometer’s full range in 3-4 swipes. Just try not to slam into the minimum or maximum end when doing this.
No need. He has standards that will get him an order of magnitude closer than the work he'll be able to do. He's not sending people to the moon with a $1M CNC machine.
WD-40 probably isn't the best solvent. It leaves a film that both collects debris and oxidizes over time, causing a buildup of orange gunk. For straight cleaning i prefer non-florinated brake cleaner as it is inexpensive and easy to come by in both the spray bottles and gallon jugs (typically under the trade name acetone). Naphtha is better for working indoors as it doesn't vaporize as fast but is harder to come by. I have heard it said that WD-40 is the duck tape of lubrication. It is a multipurpose cleaning and lubricating product but I would put i in the lower class of even that. If you want the equivalent of gaffer's tape I would recommend Rem Oil.
Adam, hope we can get you in for a visit some day. Would love for you to tour our repair center and calibration lab.
This would be an amazing place to see featured.
Hey Mitu with the regular inside, outside, depth calipers there is a recess on both the inside and outside jaws near the long leg. So far no one knows why they are there. Are these for dust & dirt buildup?
This would be awesome!!!!!
Yes please!
Updoot
"We don't make how to videos so much as we make what happened videos. What almost always happens is mistakes and screw ups."
I really enjoy this fact about your videos. Things go wrong, mistakes get made and accidents happens. When they do, you're honest and upfront about it, and then you fix it. Well done Sir.
I've learned a lot more from other people's mistakes than from my own successes. These "I made a mistake, here's how to fix it" video's are very valuable.
I have that same set in my service truck. As a mobile mechanic/millwright it's funny to see how careful he handles them! After 15 years of bouncing around in a truck, in and out of -40°c weather and with zero maintenance, I have never had an issue with them. Unreal built instruments
Dude, this is what I'm talking about. Buy the best (my opinion is Mitutoyo measurement tools are the best), and you will have them for a long time, which makes them a great value even though they might be a little more expensive at first.
As Marty said in Back to the Future 3. "All the best stuff is made in Japan"
Buy the best but have something cheap ready for jank
We were going through the electrics and my $15 multimeter got a 2 cm long arc between the wires (rubber/air) on a supposed 400v line
What are these gauges? How are they used? I have basic high school science knowledge 🙈
@@wordsinahandle these specifically measure the outside dimension of something. You put the object between the two ends, and then twist the silver thing. It's threaded so it'll close down onto the part until it's touching and making that clicking noise. Then you read the lines on the side of the barrel and if you know how to read one it'll tell you very precisely how big that dimension is.
As a quality engineer who taught herself how to repair measurement equipment…this video made me problematically excited!
I love this channel. I actually bought that knight lighter, and I restored it following along your video, and now everyone asks about him sitting on a table in our foyer! His name is Chuck.
Very cool!
Could have named him Michael? Then he would be Michael Knight from Knight Rider!
That's SIR Chuck to YOU!
Ive used Starrett Tool and Instrument Oil for 40 years, Adam. I call it "liquid silk" and use it on all my calipers, micrometers, and fine measuring tools. I even put a single drop on the gear mechanisms of my parents Grandfather Clock once a year. So good to see someone as intellectual as you explore Metrology. You certainly don't hear the word much less see TH-cam videos on the subject every day.
I just use ordinary very light, and pure, oil. There is nothing special about the Starrett oil, unless you compare it to motor oil. There are many fine oils that readily oxidise, and also evaporate without leaving a gummy deposit.
It's about as rare as seeing correct torquing
Then again, the torque wrenches and drivers needed are ~$1700
@@willthecat3861 "pure oil." LOL. That means absolutely nothing. When you change your car oil... Nevermind that's not a good example, because your probably say, "Yeah, I just use pure oil." You use the specific oil that is meant for the job. You just happened to find one that is suitable for this kind of task; with through luck or trial and error.
@@littlejackalo5326 Pure oil, simply means, any suitable oil, that is not blended with other oils, does not contain additives, or has not been modified. Yes, believe it or not there are such things as pure oils. Almost unanimously engine oils are not pure oils. Pure oils have a certain viscosity, density, boiling point, and so on. Sometimes it is a range, especially if it is a natural product. But, the properties are well known. Such oils are classified as pure. Pure silicon oil is such an oil. Pure mineral oil is also such a thing. Pure rape seed oil (not blended rape seed oil), pure linseed oil. Do you need more explanation.
Yes your pronunciation is correct. Metrology is my world and I love it. If you ever need anything calibrated to unreasonably accurate tolerances, let me know!
I worked in a metrology lab for 5 years, calibrating and cleaning all of our Machinist's micrometers etc. I used basically the same stuff, starrett tool and instrument oil in little yellow bottle. Very nicely thin lubrication.
12:06 That was the most jarring shot in Tested history. I like it!
I cleaned mine ultrasonically in pieces with water+simple green and they're all dead-on and repeatable. I wouldn't do it with any threads engaged together or it might cause vibratory wear.
Thank you Adam, for sharing your mistake. Many men are to proud or arrogant to do such a thing. It is a amazing quality to share ones mistakes in an effort to educate others. Thank you Adam. 🐸
Cleaning them ultrasonically is how I have been taught. I’m an engineering apprentice and you get dead on 0’s every time. Don’t do it when pieces are still connected (especially when threaded) together because otherwise the threads/connections will wear down due to the vibrations of ultrasonic.
Same reason you don't clean bearings ultrasonically. One of the forums I'm on had people arguing that it was ok, so I ran a few samples through the tank and cut them open. Totally ruined as expected!
I clean them with diet coke and mentos
I love this channel so much. It is such a safe easy space to spend some time. It doesn’t matter what Adam is doing, I find it fascinating. Thanks to all involved with this amazing channel!
Adam puts out the most content! I love it. He lives the life I dream about. Building, fixing, improving, collecting and creating tools. It is inspiring. I can't wait to buy my own home so I can have my own cave to create. Currently my garage sized shed has no power, light fixtures, insulation, or outlets. I rent my current house but man the space would be perfect!
I refurbish metrology and machine tools as a hobby. Gun bore brushes are invaluable for cleaning threaded holes and getting into small places (like the inside of the thimble). I have a set of nylon ones and a set of brass. They are infinitely more durable and effective than generic "bottle brushes". Also, for final cleaning and/or lubricating, the "micro brushes" used for touch up paint and in the cosmetics industry are outstanding. They "fit" neatly between just using a needle-dropper bottle and something like watch oilers. Much more control over where the lube goes (and how much), and the don't drop fibers like a q-tip.
Yeah those q-tips do the job but the odds of leaving fibres behind is just too great. Appreciate the tip about fine brushes.
Not to mention the ever handy as heck AR-15 tooth brush. with the little skinny end.
Appreciate the admission of mistakes, and shaaring the process of stepping up and fixing them.
Adam, another good cleaner to remove hydrocarbon-based lubricants is Heptane. We use it to clean precision bearings for use in space hardware, inside a class 10,000 clean room. Using Teflon tools, we sonicate the bearing balls and races in100% Heptane.
Yeah but they sell wd at Lowe's
@@Arcticroberto9376 FYI a product called "Bestine" solvent and thinner for rubber cement is straight industrial grade heptane.
I sell and repair gages(I’ve been to Mitutoyo’s repair department in City of Industry, CA) for a living, you did a great job! I would use a degreaser for cleaning instead of WD, but otherwise perfectly fine job. And the Starrett tool oil is exactly the right lubricant to use.
6:00 -- The kind of horror story precision engineers tell around the camp fire.
"And then. And then. The monster picked up a random bottle of grease without checking its suitability."
[horrified intake of breath from audience]
"And he slathered it all over the tool!"
one time I greased the scissors of a hedge trimmer. I was so proud of myself for choosing a thicker lubricant that would last.......squeezed the trigger and ruined the blade connection to the little motor :(
Hahaha, this gave me a laugh!
Don’t mess with a machinist and their tools. It’s a thing. New guys come into my shop asking to borrow someone’s mics and they are not well received. I keep a cheap set for the new guys that come through so they don’t drive us crazy
To clean old oils I've used brake cleaner. I know it's nasty stuff but it does a great job of breaking down bad oils and grease. It was invaluable when I was tearing down /reassembling the fine threads on a lathe collet chuck.
I would recommend locking down the standard in a v-block or your micrometer stand and holding the micrometer in your hands holding the fixed end to the standard and then using just your pointer finger and thumb along the thimble not using the ratchet move your hand in a circular motion to find the top of the convex edge of the standard doing this will allow to build up a feel with you micrometer in which would allow to to measure things much more accurately....just a thought from a fellow machinist
Just got a vintage Craftsman USA made 1" micrometer and it was all gummed up. So happy I found this video. Thanks Jamie and keep spreading the knowledge!!! 😊😊😊
If your mics dont gauge test 0, there's a spanner wrench for mics that lets you turn the barrel to get the vernier to line up. Usually done if there is anvil wear.
Or after the micrometer has been used as a precision G-clamp.
(You do know that the small pointy jaws on a caliper are used for don't you? Chipping off welding slag of course.)
@@morriewyatt6234 they are, indeed, quite hard. =)
If you have enough wear on carbide anvils to warrant adjustment: A) you're not being very careful, and B) the faces are guaranteed to no longer be parallel! I have a Etalon that was new in about 1976, has seen lots of careful use, and still reads dead on.
@@componenx loan them to an apprentice and you might find an anvil missing (that actually happened, not to mine thankfully)
Ballistol works very well on cleaning metal parts. And it protects as well! Absolutely love it in the machine shop. Right up there with CRC SP-250 🙏
Thanks Adam. I purchased 3 micrometers last month. Now I know how to clean them and care for them.
Anybody else giggle at about 7:50 mark when he put the air hose between his legs and just stood there, or am I just the only one:)! Great video, very informative!
Only Adam could make repairing and earlier error mesmerising to watch.
Adam, What you should make is a very small tube to fit over the bottom anvil of the micrometers. You could then slip it over the anvil and then slip the bottom of the standard into the top of the tube. This would eliminate your fiddling with your fingers to try to hold the bottom of the standard square on the anvil. You could make it out of a rubber hose or a soft metal. Dan.
Or 3D print it.
Yes, but he only ever uses these micrometers to clean them, oil them, calibrate them or build a box for them, so it doesn’t really matter.
If you know what you are doing the tube is not necessary, skill is all the is required.
I inherited a single 1" Starrett 230 mic from my dad. He was a saw filer at a mill for almost 30 years with that, and a former timber faller for 20 before the mill. Fantastic man, but tool maintenance wasn't his thing. Poor mic was FILTHY inside, and very rough and sloppy action (for a precision instrument). I tried a few cleaning methods, and finally stumbled on some easy, effective advice: Brake cleaner. Got all the crud out of the barrel and spindle-carrier brilliantly.
I did have to gingerly tighten up the tension collet on the spindle-carrier threads, and it took a few tries until I had it riding that knife-edge between no resistance and no movement.
Putting it back together, I rubbed a drop of Marvel Mystery Oil on my fingers so I could leave no more than a sheen on most parts (like the cam lock). I've sworn by MMO since my A&P tech school. One drop of MMO on the threads, ran the threads from one end to the other several times, wiped off the excess a couple times from the outer threads of the spindle... and it was ready! It's very silky now, with just a bit of carry-spin when I give it a flick, and no looseness.
Did have to spanner-turn the barrel - it was about .0004 out of zero, but now it repro's on 0.000 and 1.000 beautifully. (No vernier.)
I love the epic tool cleaning music that fades in and out then goes for it towards the end of the video. Everyone needs an epic soundtrack for tool cleaning. 😆
That HammerTone green is SO PRETTY. Wish I could find it in more colours where I am.
Cool! I've found a great way to clean the carbide faces is to clamp on a piece of paper gently, and pull the paper out. This removes all oil, dirt, etc, and makes the zero much more repeatable.
Electronics cleaner would also work well to remove the old oil. Gun cleaning swabs can also be low lint with special rods for cleaning tubes that might work well for things like this.
He's in California. Buying anything remotely related to guns would attract protestors marching in front of the cave.
Hi Adam the WD40 degreaser spray is great for that sort of job,really good for degreasing precision instruments,really enjoy all your one day builds.
If you didn't use WD-40, you wouldn't need to clean it. I don't let WD-40 near any kind of precision instrument. It's an oxidizing oil, it will react with atmospheric oxygen and turn into a varnish, which is what gums them up. It's a lousy lubricant. Its only good use is cleaning off old WD-40. Use a good watch or instrument oil, applied sparingly (with a toothpick, not a dropper), keep the instruments dust free, and you won't need to re-lubricate for many years.
Camp stove fuel to clean. Turbine oil to lubricate. Works fine for my stuff.
Thank you for showing us the mistakes.
I have my grandpa's old micrometer and this exactly what it needs
I have a vintage watchmakers bench micrometer (has a built in stand and is in metric) I completely restored it so it looks vintage still but has a hammered paint finish now instead of the black finish it originally had. Much nicer to use. I also have a holder like you are using to hold the micrometers in this video.
The gummy brown deposit is the result of the oil oxidising, and also the lighter components of the oil evaporating and leaving behind the thicker components of the oil.
What oil was used the last time these were cleaned? It looks like cosmoline 😕
When I check my mics with standards I give the standard a little spin. It seams to help Center it.
I clean my standards with 220 grit sandpaper before I use them
What is the tool / bit in the drill that you are using for cleaning the inside bore? Is it something similar to what is found in a gun cleaning kit?
At 9:40 in this 18:41 video I have not seen what you are doing with the drill, air, swabs, the disassembly process, where you apply the good oil. I need to do this with my one 4 to 5", but I am none the wiser. I also need to straighten a bent ratchet shaft. How?
For Pete's sake, what oil did you use when you first restored these? I'm not sure I even have oil that can get this gooey, even way oil or dark cutting oil. Maybe 0W-40 (after 15,000 miles)?
Hey Adam, like many here I’m a quality technician at a machine shop (and a mechanical engineer) and work with these tools daily. I haven’t seen anyone here mention this yet but when ratcheting your micrometers you only want “ratchet” or “click” a maximum of 3 times. I get onto our machinists almost daily for cranking away on that ratchet micrometer. It’ll usually only effect your measurement by a few ten thousandths but as we all know, sometimes that will give you an out of tolerance measurement. Love your videos!
I have the Mitotoyo mics with the analog, digital readout (the rolling numbers display). I wish I could find info on taking them apart to clean. The spindle backs out, but only so far!
As a Millwright or machinist, the spindle should not spin freely like a top. There should be the slightest amount of drag to minimize backlash in the spindle threads. There is a nut that acts like a collet for the female threads in the frame side. Uses the same spanner for calibrating the datum line on the sleeve.
When using your standards, slowly roll the standard while turning the spindle. When the ratchet clicks, stop after a couple clicks, otherwise it can act similar to an impact gun ( small scale ) and cause a few 10 thousands of an in error.
On the brown and sharpe calipers you and also use the jaw end side as a depth gauge.
Adam
After cleaning with WD-40, it is a good idea to flush the WD-40 out/off with something like acetone or some de-greaser before applying the final lube. Starrett oil is fine, but many folks prefer a synthetic watch oil (Mobius?)
John
So basically, just use acetone or de-greaser, and leave the wd-40 on the shelf. Acetone > kerosene wd-40
@@MattsInTheBelfry WD-40, the Duct Tape of solvents/lubricants 🙂
you saw him using compressed air to blow out the solvents. nothing additional is necessary the wd40 is gone.
@@quinn10ification it's not a lubricant
@@quinn10ification WD40 is as much of a lubricant as peanut butter; works just as well too. Though both are lubricants by strictest of definitions (I.e. they will reduce coefficient of friction between surfaces) they are quite terrible at it. 😝👍
Paper towels and Q-tips leave a lot of fibers behind that can bind up in the threads. Try using some miniature plastic brushes and Kimwipes.
it looked like what he was using for finishing in the drill was a nylon bristle pipe cleaner, and he was using the linty stuff for more bulk removal. Lint should mostly be removed by the next spray/drill/air cycle before he does final lube. But I may have missed something.
Just curious: What oil was used in your initial clean/ oiling? The stuff has definitely turned to goo!
I was wondering that as soon as I saw all that varnish that it turned into. Clearly not an appropriate "oil" for precision tools.
He’s a fan of Molly D machine oil..maybe that?
Adam Savage's One Day -Repairs- ASMR
(Edit: Okay but fr I find cleaning stuff like this so satisfying)
Neat to see something I use daily as a topic.
Does professional hair clipper oil work ok on this stuff? My uncle used that on his tools because he bought it in bulk.
That was so soothing to watch.
My ocd was kicking in right around 4:50 where there's a little spec of dirt that didn't get wiped away on your 8in. Love your videos tho. As an engineer, I wish I had all the wonderful tools you've been working with in my personal collection too.
mY oCd wAs KiCkiNg iN
"Antique" shops, marketplace, flea markets, pawn shops, and swap meets can have nice tools that aren't worn out but you have to have used these tools so that you know what not to buy; like 6" calipers. They're usually worn down on the tips of the O.D. or sometimes the I.D. points are bent.
😮 some almost not turnable 😮 ... I was almost thinking that WD 40 would have been a better oil than whatever you used before , glad you got some quality machine oil on them now
should also see if you can find an optical flat set and monochromatic light to check the flatness of the anvil and spindle, when you get there.
I enjoy those close up shots a lot. I just wish the camera angle was a little better to actually watch what you were doing when cleaning. Very satisfying to have them all clean I'm sure.
I love mitutoyo micrometers. Someday I will have up to the full 12" set. So far I only have 0-1" up to 3-4"
Great start!
The best mic stand is your own beer belly as a rest for the static side of the mic. With the mic resting on you belly you can hold the mic in one hand and the gage in another and get a good feel for the mic's anvils to make a proper parallel connection with the 8" gage. You can feel it when the anvils make contact with the gage at an angle and stop. This will make for an inaccurate measurement. On the other hand when the mic's anvils and the gage meet and the surfaces contacting are parallel this feels much different and you can have confidence that you are getting a good reading.
Then again I use a mic everyday and "its a feel thing" is calibrated over time.
The number of synchronicities with this channel lately has been bizarre. I JUST finished cleaning my 60/70 year old Mitutoyo micrometer an hour ago. It was my father's so it has some extra value to me. It was so stiff, the ratchet was clicking long before the minimum measurement and even using the gross adjuster took serious effort. The tolerances of these things are absolutely astonishing! There was but the most minor of yellow film on mine (more a stain then an actual physical build up, and that's all it took to prevent functioning. I cleaned it up with a pipe cleaner and varsol and it's good to go. I can't see investing in the lube as it will now outlast me by many years and it's the only one I have so I left a fine film of WD40 (I know it's not REALLY a lubricant). Dead accurate still but I want to find one of the tiny wrenches for zeroing it out.
Dream tool, caliper with Imperial and Metric readouts. Hit me up if you have one!
I was just thinking about the oil and other stains on your leather bench covering, and it occurred to me that when you need to replace it, you should auction off sections to Tested fans who could then own a bit of Adam Savage's workshop history :)
Getting some leather key chains would be awesome
Hey Adam, have you ever looked at the forgotten Star Wars ships youtube series done by EC Henry? The level of detail is amazing
So what was chucked into that drill? A nylon brush or something?
Q-tip
You really missed an important piece of upkeep…once they are cleaned and you checked the accuracy of each tool, how do you adjust them if the mic is out of calibration?
You can adjust the scale with a special wrench that comes with micrometers.
It varies slightly from brand to brand, but for most you use a small "pin spanner"-style wrench to rotate the sleeve of the thimble (the part with the markings) until your 0's match up. You need a calibrated standard (the black sticks he was using) as a reference. On higher-end mics, the correct wrench and standard are often included, or available as an accessory. Standards are pretty "generic" in that you just need one the correct size and spec for your mic (brand doesn't matter), but the wrenches can be pretty brand/model-specific.
"Shop maintenance always feels really good" => I buy used broken tools to have the joy of doing maintenance on them. Feels and smells better than unboxing new. :D
Only suggestion I have if you're measuring really close tolerances use blue shop towels to clean with as they tend to not leave behind all the fuzz etc like standard white paper towels I use paper towels for general stuff then have blue shop towels I keep put away for use on machinists stuff as well as paper for cleaning anvils 👍👍👍
Was the video of improving the gauge box removed from YT?
Great Video!!!!! Question for ya what type of insurance do you carry to cover your shop,tools,and equipment incase of a loss?
During my time overhauling helicopter dynamic component parts I was told never to use WD 40. After a while WD40 dries and can damage the component.
The click on these things is unbelievably satisfying
I would've labeled them off of the lower limit. 7-8" would be #7. If you have a 7.###" measurement you grab # 7. Would also remind you which calibration standard to use. Would just start at #0 instead of #1
Yep, I thought that was kind of weird myself.
And if someone asked me to grab a #7 or #8 Mic.....I'd have to ask "do you mean a 7-8 Mic?" HAHA
I found WD40 to be a terrible lubricant. It is however, a great cleaner of petroleum products and not too bad when drilling soft, thin metals.
It's not a lubricant, it's a anti corrosion cleaning solvent designed to be sprayed on US rockets on the launch pad.
WD for water dispenser ;-)
@@yvanvk That word does not mean what you think it does. :-(
We're those nylon or brass bristle brushes attached to the drill? I need something like that. Got some old mics off ebay :D
Calibration Technician for an aerospace engineering company here, please don't just test the minimum point on these and assume that's all good. The zero might me right but the rate of change could be off entirely. Ideally you should check using gauge blocks all along the entire scale, there are even pre-made gauge block sets specifically for this purpose, but I would suggest at least testing the minimum and maximum ends of the scales. Also, I suggest spinning the setting rods at the same time as engaging the ratchet, it helps centre and square it and can help to remove any air pockets caught between the surfaces that might throw off your readings. Love the video, and love seeing you branching into metrology.
My first boss always said, "Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, and cut it with an axe". Funny thing, there were only the three of us who knew what a micrometer was. It was our secret, as real engineers.
Oh my gosh that hit just right 🤣🤣🤣
Did I miss what kind of oil NOT to use?
Saw the oil TO use...
I really enjoy your videos I watch every day. I really love to hear your input on a fractal vice. Maybe challenge you to make one. 😁
I'm just curious why you didn't use alcohol to clean them, or do them in an ultrasonic cleaner (disassembled to prevent wear)
Not sure what bit that is in the power drill , but seems a little aggressive for these precision mics
just a suggestion: use Ballistol vs WD-40. Don't get me wrong, WD-40 is a wonderful all around lub/cleaner, it just needs to be reapplied yearly. Ballistol is considered a 'white' oil. It's popular to both clean and oil metal in gun smithing. I can personally attest that I use it on my own tools and guns. I realize a lot of people don't like guns, so I don't need the negative responses regarding that; however, even when I use it on my tools I don't have to re-address them for years. As I live in MI and the temps vary alot more than CA: condensation occurs multiple times per year in my garage and house.
So in what scenario would you use those?
What oil did you originally use? It turned really gummy
The only thing I can think of that gums are natural oils like vegetable oil
@@mikem5475 that's why I ask. I can't think of an oil that gums up like that either. And I doubt Adam would spread veg. oil all over his prized calibers.
@@jrobinson953 In a bag of things thrown out by an old hardware store were two cans, seemingly from the early 90's. One was an aerosol "soy oil" and the other "soylvent". One heavy spray oil and the other one oil with solvent like wd40. At one time they used to be a "healthy" and "eco friendly" version. But right on the can of the soy oil it says not food safe and wash skin after contact. They seemed to work alright, but they stunk and I threw them out after learning of estrogenic chemicals used in soybean production. I've accidentally used vegetable oil in a mechanical keyboard and it ruined it within months. Horrible mistake. I would imagine that it'd be good for chains, because of how it gums
Hey have you done any rc plane i seen a model hanging from you selling.
The de-merit badges are really funny. I have done them all except glue my fingers together.
Automatic transmission fluid will strip off any sort of gummy deposits and not leave residue.
It might strip off paint as well, so be judicious in application.
Gloves, of course, as the stuff strips off skin oils.
Brake fluid has been know to clean things up as well.
New fluids only: used fluids may have picked up some nasty stuff.
Hi Adam
This is no joke, have you seen the drill bit that produces a square hole,,honest Adam,,it is ingenious. Chris here in the UK
Does sewing machine oil work well?
Adam do you regularly schecdule time to do this type of maintenance? or is it just done when needed?
Regular cleaning with wd40 seems too work best for me. I'm a machinist and I use my calipers and mics quite often. Just spray em down, wipe away the excess and then kinda blow em dry with your air hose.
Here’s and old trick to be proficient and quick with micrometers.
Roll the thimble along your hand or forearm for large adjustments. You can travel a micrometer’s full range in 3-4 swipes.
Just try not to slam into the minimum or maximum end when doing this.
Have you considered having an inspection service certify all of your metrology tools?
No need. He has standards that will get him an order of magnitude closer than the work he'll be able to do. He's not sending people to the moon with a $1M CNC machine.
If youd said the thumbnail was a tiny lightsaber, I would have believed it
I just bought a micrometer but it doesn’t want to move very well and I don’t know how to calibrate it
WD-40 probably isn't the best solvent. It leaves a film that both collects debris and oxidizes over time, causing a buildup of orange gunk. For straight cleaning i prefer non-florinated brake cleaner as it is inexpensive and easy to come by in both the spray bottles and gallon jugs (typically under the trade name acetone). Naphtha is better for working indoors as it doesn't vaporize as fast but is harder to come by.
I have heard it said that WD-40 is the duck tape of lubrication. It is a multipurpose cleaning and lubricating product but I would put i in the lower class of even that. If you want the equivalent of gaffer's tape I would recommend Rem Oil.
I missed any explanation there might have been as to what was chucked in his drill and what he was doing with it.... ???
That's what I was wondering too. Probably a small bottle brush or Q-tip? :shrug:
why is it with magnetic indicator bases looses all magnetism if you take it apart to clean them?????
I was wondering what drill attachment Adam was using to cleaning
Looked like just a round brush he stuck in the chuck.
7:58 Don't hold your air hose there, lol
Do u take one all the way apart... Cause that's what I need help with