Archvillain Games has some of the best model's bar none, Empire of Sands & EoS: Scales of Anubis are ridiculous awesome bundles. The sculptors at AG are top notch talented, BUT whomever is in charge of their pre-support's needs fired or retrained lol, horrific pre-support, I will still buy more bundles regardless. Archvillain Games for life. And I think you will succeed in the project.
I'm not sure if you've heard of him, but there is a TH-camr under the name Rybonator who makes dice out of resin. He has quite a few resin for beginners videos if you want to check him out.
You might want to consider setting up a vibration table for that kind of thing. Easy way to do that is take two 2x4's and put a box fan on it facing up with a piece of plywood ontop that doesn't fully cover the fan. Adjust the speed of the fan to suit things to just vibrate rather than rattle, put your moulds and such ontop while it's curing and you get a lot of bubbles out.
As a woodworker who also crafts, I use resin a lot for projects. Here's my advice: resin is baking not cooking. You cook with general cup/tsp etc sizes which give variance. Baking you weigh and use a scale. I weigh my resin with a cheap kitchen scale. Haven't had a fail since. My other thought is if you don't wait long enough for the paint/glue to cure before pouring resin on it, there could also be an unwanted response. Also I have a hand torch that is beautiful for helping settle bubbles.
Maybe he could seal it with a small precoat of resin brushed on as well. I think bubbles (well a certain amount) are OK because swamps give off gasses and bubbles all the time.
small tip for resin being a bit too viscous. put the bottles of the resin in a warm (not hot) water bath, about 30 minutes before doing your resin work. should keep things a bit runnier which makes pouring easier and also makes it so that bubbles can rise to the surface quicker
I usually put the ready mix into a syringe (no needle) and submerge the syringe in veeery hot water for several minutes. It warms the resin up efficiently and helps the bubbles flow out.
Thank you so much for talking about your fear-failure-frustrations immediately and how you worked with that. This allows us newbies to assuage our fears (well... some of them).
Not to be an annoying over-helper and add to the great advice that’s already been given in the comments, but mixing it on its side will introduce air, unfortunately. Warming the bottle of part A in warm water first will certainly help reduce bubbles and viscosity, as has already been suggested, and using a silicone mixing stick instead of a wooden one can also help reduce bubbles when mixing. If you’ve got bubbles on the surface of your pour, you can definitely just pass the flame of a small torch over it, but if your other materials or the silicone mould won’t allow that, a quick spritz with isopropyl alcohol over the surface will get rid of them. Also if you have a surface with lots of subtle details that will act as air pockets, you can spritz the surface prior to a pour to lower the surface tension and eliminate a lot of the bubbles. Leaving your mixed resin to stand in the cup for a minute or two before pouring can also help, and gently tapping it against the table will help the bubbles rise a bit. Hope that helps you or anyone else tackling resin. I work with it all the time and sometimes I still get freak flash cures and bubbles. It’s a fickle material, unfortunately. Thanks for sharing your experience and I love seeing what you come up with, week after week.
If you’re gonna do more of these grab some reusable mixing sticks. Wooden ones can introduce moisture where you don’t want it. I love how you’ve always shown your resin stories. Success or fail!
If you really want to get rid of bubbles entirely you'll need a pressure pot. I've used it for making soul gems and they come out perfect. I've been using Envirotex Lite resin from Michael's and in an open pour diorama it came out bubble-free, though it was a pretty shallow pour.
Ya know what might be FREAKING AWESOME, if you made some very shallow terrain, did a shallow resin pour in the same mold, and made drink coaster for your tabletop games. Just an idea
a lot of times you can seal your underlying work using UV resin, do that to seal in anything you're worried about reactivating or porous materials that could leak and you can get some good results i bet
I'm glad to hear you're getting more happy with your painting, you always seem to downplay your skills and you're improving all the time. It's nice to see you recognize that. 👍🏻
I have seen pretty good results from just gently tapping the base on a table to jar the bubbles upward. But not hard enough to really get the resin to move. That's how the bubbles get pulled out from some of the better pieces that I've looked at anyways!
I actually think in this kind of projects having bubbles is a feature. A swamp with no bubbles would seem off. Though maybe less of them, can't really see them well on youtube. Maybe try that painting on thing, but also painting on except where you intend bubbles (e.g. some underwater pipe or so)
For the small bubbles, try to use a small blowtorch over the surface just after you pour the resin and it should easily get rid of them. Don't give up hope! Resin is one hell of a beast to tame but once you do, you can have fantastic results! :D
One thing you could try for resin if you want little in the way of fumes is water based poly. It works great on floors with a dry time around an hour where it can be walked on with socks, 24 hours for regular shoes and with full cure in 7 days. It comes out milky white but cures clear with a variety of sheens from gloss to extra matte. No idea how well it would cure in a deeper application or interact with model paints or any colored dyes though.
Great work! One thing I appreciate about your videos is how honest and forward you are about the challenges you face while creating your builds. I really dig this diorama, especially your conversion of the dragon's head. Cheers!
Lots of good advice floating around in the comments here, which is great. One other tip I've seen people who work with resin a lot use is to mix your colouring agent into one part of the resin before mixing the two parts together. For one thing, you're not racing against the clock to get the colour mixed in when the resin is already starting to cure (admittedly not a huge problem with resins like this that have long cure times). But the more useful part is that once the colour is fully incorporated into one part, when you mix the two parts together, it gives you a visual guide for when the two components of the resin are fully incorporated, as the colour will be completely homogenous through the mix. It can be hard to tell sometimes when you've mixed the two clear liquids together enough (and it seems to usually require more mixing than you think), so this can really help. Keep it up, these videos are really helpful for people looking to avoid pitfalls, and it's really enjoyable to watch you make-fail-make-fail-make-succeed (though I imagine it's incredibly frustrating in the moment!).
Time for a vacuum chamber to de-gas the resin? An alternative to dipping your model in resin is a simple coat of varnish, which will also prevent any reaction between your paint/mini/flock and the resin. Loved to idea of the silicone boot instead of making a box!
Lots of people making notes on resin, but I wanted to make a note on the air bubbles after you pour but before it cures: introduce a small flame over the surface for a moment. Another suggestion is using a pressure pot or vacuum chamber. The vacuum chamber removes the air while a pressure pot shrinks the air bubbles to imperceptible sizes.
Things you can do to try to help the resin truly be clear is a good seal. I didn't go ham and dip everything in resin in my diorama tutorial but I did use a few nice coats of watered down PV glue. If resin has to seep into every crack and corner with sharp texture, it'll bubble. Another thing I noticed is when you were mixing, you were introducing some air with the long swirls. You want the stick to be submerged at the same depth as much as possible like you're mixing a cake. This is extremely hard to do with small pours like that which is why I try to steer clear but that resin definitely looks like a great product and something they'll hopefully offer a coupon code for because I'd be interested in using it for a massive resin project I have coming up.
i cant wait for my wife and I to try this, we work together in a small office so a resin with little or no oder would be so awesome and it looks great too!
I built a small 200 sq ft log cabin in the woods 24 years ago. This year I upgraded it with all the modern amenities, but it maintains that log cabin cosy and spooky in the woods feel. I also have a large deck on the front with one corner of the deck in a 10 ft octagon shape. This shape reminded me of a D20. We have a fire pit table in the middle of the deck. And 8 people can sit comfortably around it. This spring I want to enclose the octagon in a gazebo and widen the fire pit table with a convertible/flippable roll playing table/eating table top. I’ve never had room for a dedicated D&D spot at my house, but I have always wanted one. I’m looking for inspiration and ideas to build the gazebo and table in the medieval cottage/cabin in the woods feel. Any ideas or links to videos of other projects like this would be very helpful! And I would be very grateful!
A pressure pot or vacuum chamber will help with the bubbles. For you I suggest a pressure pot to compress the bubbles from all the tiny little air pockets in the models.
Love your channel. Been watching for years on various YT accounts. This video really felt down to earth and relatable like some of your older content. Your recent stuff has been great, but this felt old school for your channel. Love it.
Use something non pourous for stiring. I have worked with silicone alot for my job and we degas it to remove trapped air. I am not sure about that medium you are using, but you could try a vacuum chamber either before you pour or after. Before is probably better as it will boil. Not hot boil, just release all the trapped gas.
Well done, Jerro. To me, that looks great. Nevermind the bubles, a putrid bed of water always let's some gas out when stirred and they add to the toxic look. Cheers.
Another (way more expensive) tip for removing bubbles is to use a pressure pot. Applying about +40 psi to the project in a pressure vessel for the duration of the soft cure will prevent bubbles.
Super happy to see you persevering on despite your many failed attempts, and I'm almost certain you'll get an even better result next time! It's kinda bizarre that they suggest a low pour, as a high pour will much more reliably pop all the bubbles, and I definitely agree that painting on a thin layer of resin to capture all the details is a good idea.
For this, being that it's a swamp, the bubbles don't seem out of place really, but if you want a pristine transparent resin pour, you're pretty much dependent on having a vacuum chamber. Those are my two cents. Perhaps it's time to build one? I think you can build one using mostly inexpensive materials - A sturdy bucket, some plumber's supplies, and build a hook-up for your airbrush compressor to create the vacuum. Whether it's strong enough to produce sufficient underpressure to get rid of bubbles is another question, but if nothing else perhaps that experiment will be a great future video? :)
If a lot of the bubbles are outgassing from the diorama materials, would a clear coat before the pour help? If it's from air in between detail bits, would vibrating the base during the pour help free it?
I don't know, Jeremy. Having been with you from the early days and watching your frustrations with Resin pours, I would call this a resounding success. The other commenters have some great tips to reduce the bubbles but even with the microbubbles, this has to be at least one of if not your absolute best pour I can recall. I may have to look into this company myself because my history with resin is similar to yours and if mine came out as nice as yours did, I think I would call that a happy project.
2 minutes in i was bracing myself cuz I use this brand of resin all the time. Glad it turned out so well for you, but yeah getting bubbles just seems to be a thing with resin unless you use a vacuum chamber to degas the resin and/or use a pressure pot. One could argue that for water scenes it makes sense to have air bubbles in the "water." Good video, happy casting!
Micro bubbles are usually caused during the mixing step and can be minimized by placing the mixed resin in to a vacuum chamber for about a minute before pouring. Warming the piece after pouring to about 30-35 degrees C for 5-10 minutes can cause larger bubbles to raise to the surface and pop.
You mentioned user error - do you think this resin was at least more forgiving than others? Specifically making a video for it I'm curious if you found yourself more patient/attentive than a normal pour. I gotta plan out some hellish swamp terrain for Idols of Torment!
This one was for sure more forgiving than other's I've used. I was more patient in terms of making the mold vs some sort of half assed damn (which I've done in the past) but still wasn't patient enough to REALLY make sure I had no problems. I am 100% happy with this resin and the results I got for most terrain things, just gotta try to get perfect results for when I want really clear water.
It went by pretty quick but the most interesting part of the video to me was the silicone mold, that would be really helpful for my Tau Shore Patrol bases. I'll have to try and break that bit of the video down
i've never used Resin and i keep watching your videos hoping to find something fool proof, and this is a great step in the right direction imo..i think i could actually do that...and honestly Smell is one of the biggest factors so it's been preventing me somewhat from using even my 3D printer until i got some low odor resin...
I don't want to be a party pooper, but as a die maker with long experience in resins I can assure you that without a pressure pot it is absolutely unthinkable to be able to avoid bubbles, especially in a diorama with so many textured surfaces. The only advice I can give you in the absence of a pressure pot is to use resin with a very low viscosity (e.g. EPOXACAST 690) instead of a medium viscosity one like the ones used in the video ^ ^
Hey man just seen your video. 1st one, subscribed. Youve gotten some great advice in the comments here. I can tell you this a pressure pot will remove those bubbles if it has to be perfectly clear. No pressure pot? Have no fear. Ive been able to remove air bubbles by simply mixing it for directed time amount. Then pour into something with a wide bottom that you can pour out of easily. Make another silicone bowl like you did. Mix in cup, pour into bowl, torch it lightly bubles will be allowed to escape easier, wait a few mins, torch it again. Brush it onto your model generously, torch whats left in the 1st mold, then pour into final mold. Having it spread out and thin will give you a lil more time than if its deeper in a mixing cup. Once it starts to heat its a quick chain reaction. Im looking forward to seeing your other videos. Keep it up man.
Were there bubbles in the remains of the resin in the mixing cup? That should give a clue as to whether the bubbles in the model were from trapped air of the terrain/model. Love the piece though - and I enjoy the fails because some videos only show the perfect really expensive, massive pours without any hint that things can go wrong.
I guess to add to this I work with resin when making dice! The biggest thing to remember as well is to keep your nose safe and wear a fume type mask. But for the resin piece I think the best thing to get rid of bubbles is a pressure pot. I'd be happy to show you my setup if you want, I use it constantly and get perfect results! (Even in this weird Interlake climate)
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial True but usually in general I don't trust when resins say that since the combination of the two liquids creates a chemical reaction. They can fancy up the label all they want but when it comes to the exact science of how resin reacts and what fumes are released for the chemical makeup I want to protect those lungs. Trust me hearing horror stories from people who have had exposure and have developed bad health issues. If you have a well ventilated room that would help too!!
i know this video is old, but heating your resin periodically with a heatgun while mixing helps A LOT with the bubbles. so does hitting them with a heat gun or torch once its in the mold.
Retry the exact same experiment, but let the initially cure in a pressure pot (cheaper ones are available at places like harbor freight and even amazon). The pressure should force the bubbles out of the resin before its initial cure sets. Great video! Keep it up.
This is such a neat little diorama, it turned out great. Especially considering it was essentially a one day project. Excellent work as always dude 😁❤️👍🏻
Others in the comments have suggested a pressure pot, which is good, but if you're looking for a slightly cheaper solution, a heat gun works WONDERS, and has other applications as well.
To truely get resin bubble free you need a pressure pot. I have used water clear resins before and the difference between not using a pressure pot and using one is like night and day. Also depending on the working time you can also degass the resin before pouring it.
That’s good resin the second I saw the jellyfish I was like ok he should not fail lol. Good resin used before but switched to other resins at lower cost.
I use a ton of resin, like gallons a week. If you are going to be using mostly small projects I would recommend building a pressure pot. There are lots of videos and you can get the items from Harbor Freight for like $100-150. This has been the best investment ever for small items. I saw some other ones and yeah you don't want to use heat guns or lighters if you have those small models sticking out so a quick spritz with IPA will take surface bubbles away as well! Good luck in the future, resin is just too awesome for dioramas to not use.
The experience I have with resins and silicons is, stir them slowly and when people talk about a high pour it basicaly means the stream of resin gets thin towards the bottom and pops most of the bubbles. Also a first painting of the resin on your base first will stop any trapped air from rising for the second third pour ect.. Another tip which I've tried to some success is using a glass rod to pour the resin down this also allows bubbles to pop, just like a high pour but more controllable. But I must say Loved the face of mighty concentration. Have to try that..
Every time I've used resin in molds, I place the mold/model on the table and run my airbrush compressor on the table-creates small low level vibrations which will elevated the bubbles...good luck and good video
Dang they hooked you up on ink! That had to be costly. It looks good, the bubbles can actuay add to the effect if you're going for a swamp or amarsh where stuff is decaying on the bottom and releasing bubbles. All I could think about was-This dragon got its had lopped off and fell into a lake of kerbango. Lol.
It does look like the bubbles have formed on the surface of the base. Maybe if you brush on a thin coat of UV resin that you insta-cure on the base prior to the big pours it would minimize the amount of bubbles, and still be fast enough that you can basically run a similar process. Just two between-steps, brush resin & UV-torch it. But it looks good regardless!
hope you'll find another idea where you can try this resin again, and find a way to make it buble free, like with the paiintbrush technique you spoke of. thank you for tthe video
for the future, before you pour resin into tiny cups that you can hardly read--grab a fine line sharpie and mark the line you want to fill to on both cups. makes it a lot easier :)
I recently found out Golden's Open Acrylics (~3 hour working time) take two weeks of drying before it stops releasing gases. If you try to paint anything on top of them that's fast drying, those gases get sealed under the paint, causing it to become cloudy. Really explained a lot of problems I've been having lately lol. For regular acrylics (which I'm assuming were used here without anything like extender or gel medium), 48 hours sounds like it would be enough? Normal acrylics without anything other than water added have 15~30 minutes of working time once they're painted on.
Resins always tricky to use but can you can get some beautiful results. Personally my biggest problem with resin is that I keep poking it before it's cured.
I have used a flame to remove the bubbles. just sweep an open flame over the top of the resin right after you pour it to remove the bubbles. Use something like a bic lighter that does not put out a hotintense flame and sweep it lightly over the surface a few times. If you hold the flamein pone place it will scorch the resi n.
I asked this on another video this am but not sure how far back in your videos you go and answer questions? I did not support Idols Of Torment for financial reasons but it looks soooo cool. I started a TH-cam channel yesterday,WESARDRY, and was wondering if I could do a video making terrain/dice tray inspired by Idols? I’ve been rewatching your videos and thought it would be a fun project and I often get inspired from your work. Thanks Wes
A few bubbles, at least it didn't froth over like your previous one... I have yet to use resin myself, it scares me a lot, especially since it's the final step after the figures etc. are finished. That said I'm thinking of doing a Rhaegar Targaryen versus Robert Baratheon fighting at the Ruby ford and I really want to have ankle deep water and (somehow) have some rubies glittering in the depths that have been smashed of Rhaegar's armour.
You know, I was thinking "maybe for round bases, you could make a rubber mould around the base for resin pours". Evidently, you had the same idea, as you demonstrated mere moments after me thinking it.
Last time I poured a stream with lots of texture I ended up with bubbles too. Next time I'm gonna try sealing the bottom with something like still water before the epoxy to try to reduce those small bubbles.
Place your bets. Will it work? Will it fail?
HUGE THANKS ARCHVILLAIN GAMES FOR SPONSORING THIS VIDEO! CHECK THEM OUT : bit.ly/AVBMC
Archvillain Games has some of the best model's bar none, Empire of Sands & EoS: Scales of Anubis are ridiculous awesome bundles. The sculptors at AG are top notch talented, BUT whomever is in charge of their pre-support's needs fired or retrained lol, horrific pre-support, I will still buy more bundles regardless. Archvillain Games for life. And I think you will succeed in the project.
Hey Jeremy!
Adam Savage talks about resin in this video. You might also find the build useful 😂 : th-cam.com/video/2igc_BelOXk/w-d-xo.html
I'm not sure if you've heard of him, but there is a TH-camr under the name Rybonator who makes dice out of resin. He has quite a few resin for beginners videos if you want to check him out.
You might want to consider setting up a vibration table for that kind of thing. Easy way to do that is take two 2x4's and put a box fan on it facing up with a piece of plywood ontop that doesn't fully cover the fan. Adjust the speed of the fan to suit things to just vibrate rather than rattle, put your moulds and such ontop while it's curing and you get a lot of bubbles out.
As a woodworker who also crafts, I use resin a lot for projects. Here's my advice: resin is baking not cooking. You cook with general cup/tsp etc sizes which give variance. Baking you weigh and use a scale. I weigh my resin with a cheap kitchen scale. Haven't had a fail since. My other thought is if you don't wait long enough for the paint/glue to cure before pouring resin on it, there could also be an unwanted response. Also I have a hand torch that is beautiful for helping settle bubbles.
Torch around painted minis might be a bit dangerous, especially if he used oil inks.
@@SirGambitRocks good call! ☺️
Maybe he could seal it with a small precoat of resin brushed on as well. I think bubbles (well a certain amount) are OK because swamps give off gasses and bubbles all the time.
@@SirGambitRocks there are also heat guns that don't produce an open flame
I use a torch as well, got one small kitchen torch for $13 from amazon works great
small tip for resin being a bit too viscous. put the bottles of the resin in a warm (not hot) water bath, about 30 minutes before doing your resin work. should keep things a bit runnier which makes pouring easier and also makes it so that bubbles can rise to the surface quicker
For sure, they even recommend that. I wrongly assumed they were warm enough because the room they were stored in was pretty warm.
I didn't know this. good tip
I usually put the ready mix into a syringe (no needle) and submerge the syringe in veeery hot water for several minutes. It warms the resin up efficiently and helps the bubbles flow out.
Thank you so much for talking about your fear-failure-frustrations immediately and how you worked with that. This allows us newbies to assuage our fears (well... some of them).
Failure is just part of the process!
Not to be an annoying over-helper and add to the great advice that’s already been given in the comments, but mixing it on its side will introduce air, unfortunately. Warming the bottle of part A in warm water first will certainly help reduce bubbles and viscosity, as has already been suggested, and using a silicone mixing stick instead of a wooden one can also help reduce bubbles when mixing. If you’ve got bubbles on the surface of your pour, you can definitely just pass the flame of a small torch over it, but if your other materials or the silicone mould won’t allow that, a quick spritz with isopropyl alcohol over the surface will get rid of them. Also if you have a surface with lots of subtle details that will act as air pockets, you can spritz the surface prior to a pour to lower the surface tension and eliminate a lot of the bubbles. Leaving your mixed resin to stand in the cup for a minute or two before pouring can also help, and gently tapping it against the table will help the bubbles rise a bit. Hope that helps you or anyone else tackling resin. I work with it all the time and sometimes I still get freak flash cures and bubbles. It’s a fickle material, unfortunately. Thanks for sharing your experience and I love seeing what you come up with, week after week.
@Kevin Lawhorn I forgot about heat guns haha. Isopropyl alcohol is what I use. Never water because it messes with the resin cure.
One of the things I do not see mentioned is how much weight cured resin adds to a project. Do you have some input on this?
This post says all I was going to add 😁
If you’re gonna do more of these grab some reusable mixing sticks. Wooden ones can introduce moisture where you don’t want it. I love how you’ve always shown your resin stories. Success or fail!
As a dice maker, a pressure pot with any resin work is a MUST. gets rid of any bubbles.
If you really want to get rid of bubbles entirely you'll need a pressure pot. I've used it for making soul gems and they come out perfect. I've been using Envirotex Lite resin from Michael's and in an open pour diorama it came out bubble-free, though it was a pretty shallow pour.
Ya know what might be FREAKING AWESOME, if you made some very shallow terrain, did a shallow resin pour in the same mold, and made drink coaster for your tabletop games. Just an idea
a lot of times you can seal your underlying work using UV resin, do that to seal in anything you're worried about reactivating or porous materials that could leak and you can get some good results i bet
I'm glad to hear you're getting more happy with your painting, you always seem to downplay your skills and you're improving all the time. It's nice to see you recognize that. 👍🏻
I have seen pretty good results from just gently tapping the base on a table to jar the bubbles upward. But not hard enough to really get the resin to move. That's how the bubbles get pulled out from some of the better pieces that I've looked at anyways!
You are one of the beacons of entertainment in this cruddy world., keep doing your thing!
I’ll try!
I actually think in this kind of projects having bubbles is a feature. A swamp with no bubbles would seem off. Though maybe less of them, can't really see them well on youtube. Maybe try that painting on thing, but also painting on except where you intend bubbles (e.g. some underwater pipe or so)
I was thinking the same thing, that the swamp would be murky especially if you have just been fighting robot dinosaurs or whatever
Cool video, I think we're all just dying for you to have a 100% successful pour! You'll get there!
Looks good and I suggest you get a pressure pot. It would work wonders for the bubbles you get in the resin.
This seems to be the issue...I don't think there's any way around it. Air is going to get trapped inside the resin just from pouring and mixing.
For the small bubbles, try to use a small blowtorch over the surface just after you pour the resin and it should easily get rid of them.
Don't give up hope! Resin is one hell of a beast to tame but once you do, you can have fantastic results! :D
the risk of melting the models is 2 high - pressure pot is the way 2 go
@@modestrocker1 yeah, and blowtorch only snipes bubbles on the surface. I think this resin is too viscous for them to even rise.
One thing you could try for resin if you want little in the way of fumes is water based poly. It works great on floors with a dry time around an hour where it can be walked on with socks, 24 hours for regular shoes and with full cure in 7 days. It comes out milky white but cures clear with a variety of sheens from gloss to extra matte. No idea how well it would cure in a deeper application or interact with model paints or any colored dyes though.
Have you tried using the brand resin rockers? They have some pretty awesome resin
Great work! One thing I appreciate about your videos is how honest and forward you are about the challenges you face while creating your builds. I really dig this diorama, especially your conversion of the dragon's head. Cheers!
The mold is a real winner. Thanks for another, great, warts and all video.
Lots of good advice floating around in the comments here, which is great. One other tip I've seen people who work with resin a lot use is to mix your colouring agent into one part of the resin before mixing the two parts together. For one thing, you're not racing against the clock to get the colour mixed in when the resin is already starting to cure (admittedly not a huge problem with resins like this that have long cure times). But the more useful part is that once the colour is fully incorporated into one part, when you mix the two parts together, it gives you a visual guide for when the two components of the resin are fully incorporated, as the colour will be completely homogenous through the mix. It can be hard to tell sometimes when you've mixed the two clear liquids together enough (and it seems to usually require more mixing than you think), so this can really help. Keep it up, these videos are really helpful for people looking to avoid pitfalls, and it's really enjoyable to watch you make-fail-make-fail-make-succeed (though I imagine it's incredibly frustrating in the moment!).
Time for a vacuum chamber to de-gas the resin? An alternative to dipping your model in resin is a simple coat of varnish, which will also prevent any reaction between your paint/mini/flock and the resin.
Loved to idea of the silicone boot instead of making a box!
Great job, I think you did good with the whole thing. Looks great....
I wonder if using a small routery sander would help get those bubbles out? I've seen it used on concrete mixes before to get out bubbles.
I'm wondering if you put that through a pressure pot and/or a vacuumpot would it get rid of those bubbles?
I pretty much gave up on this aspect of crafting , but l think l will try it again with this product , thank you.
Love our imagination and how you come up with the stories behind all these builds. Very inspiring.
Lots of people making notes on resin, but I wanted to make a note on the air bubbles after you pour but before it cures: introduce a small flame over the surface for a moment.
Another suggestion is using a pressure pot or vacuum chamber. The vacuum chamber removes the air while a pressure pot shrinks the air bubbles to imperceptible sizes.
Try a UV resin thin coating before a pour to seal the base?
I've seen been use a drill to rattle close to the model to create a vibration that helps bring the bubbles to the surface !
Things you can do to try to help the resin truly be clear is a good seal. I didn't go ham and dip everything in resin in my diorama tutorial but I did use a few nice coats of watered down PV glue. If resin has to seep into every crack and corner with sharp texture, it'll bubble. Another thing I noticed is when you were mixing, you were introducing some air with the long swirls. You want the stick to be submerged at the same depth as much as possible like you're mixing a cake. This is extremely hard to do with small pours like that which is why I try to steer clear but that resin definitely looks like a great product and something they'll hopefully offer a coupon code for because I'd be interested in using it for a massive resin project I have coming up.
i cant wait for my wife and I to try this, we work together in a small office so a resin with little or no oder would be so awesome and it looks great too!
Right tool for the right job.
I built a small 200 sq ft log cabin in the woods 24 years ago. This year I upgraded it with all the modern amenities, but it maintains that log cabin cosy and spooky in the woods feel. I also have a large deck on the front with one corner of the deck in a 10 ft octagon shape. This shape reminded me of a D20. We have a fire pit table in the middle of the deck. And 8 people can sit comfortably around it. This spring I want to enclose the octagon in a gazebo and widen the fire pit table with a convertible/flippable roll playing table/eating table top. I’ve never had room for a dedicated D&D spot at my house, but I have always wanted one. I’m looking for inspiration and ideas to build the gazebo and table in the medieval cottage/cabin in the woods feel. Any ideas or links to videos of other projects like this would be very helpful! And I would be very grateful!
A pressure pot or vacuum chamber will help with the bubbles. For you I suggest a pressure pot to compress the bubbles from all the tiny little air pockets in the models.
to help with measuring you could try syringes... they do come in various sizes.
Love your channel. Been watching for years on various YT accounts. This video really felt down to earth and relatable like some of your older content. Your recent stuff has been great, but this felt old school for your channel. Love it.
Fun video, thank you for sharing. Have you considered a vacuum pot to assist with removing bubbles?
Use something non pourous for stiring. I have worked with silicone alot for my job and we degas it to remove trapped air. I am not sure about that medium you are using, but you could try a vacuum chamber either before you pour or after. Before is probably better as it will boil. Not hot boil, just release all the trapped gas.
Well done, Jerro. To me, that looks great. Nevermind the bubles, a putrid bed of water always let's some gas out when stirred and they add to the toxic look.
Cheers.
Another (way more expensive) tip for removing bubbles is to use a pressure pot. Applying about +40 psi to the project in a pressure vessel for the duration of the soft cure will prevent bubbles.
Fantastic video. Thank you. I recently bought some of their resin dye to try with 3D printing resin, and it works great.
Pretty nice results! Definitely try the brush on resin for the next one!
Can't wait for more ♥
Super happy to see you persevering on despite your many failed attempts, and I'm almost certain you'll get an even better result next time! It's kinda bizarre that they suggest a low pour, as a high pour will much more reliably pop all the bubbles, and I definitely agree that painting on a thin layer of resin to capture all the details is a good idea.
For this, being that it's a swamp, the bubbles don't seem out of place really, but if you want a pristine transparent resin pour, you're pretty much dependent on having a vacuum chamber. Those are my two cents.
Perhaps it's time to build one? I think you can build one using mostly inexpensive materials - A sturdy bucket, some plumber's supplies, and build a hook-up for your airbrush compressor to create the vacuum. Whether it's strong enough to produce sufficient underpressure to get rid of bubbles is another question, but if nothing else perhaps that experiment will be a great future video? :)
If a lot of the bubbles are outgassing from the diorama materials, would a clear coat before the pour help? If it's from air in between detail bits, would vibrating the base during the pour help free it?
Always love the learning you do on this channel. Al the projects look great
I don't know, Jeremy. Having been with you from the early days and watching your frustrations with Resin pours, I would call this a resounding success. The other commenters have some great tips to reduce the bubbles but even with the microbubbles, this has to be at least one of if not your absolute best pour I can recall. I may have to look into this company myself because my history with resin is similar to yours and if mine came out as nice as yours did, I think I would call that a happy project.
This is for sure the most forgiving resin I've used yet, AND the fact that it's non toxic is a huge bonus.
Painting the resin on the piece and letting it dry before the deeper poor can help reduce bubbles.
2 minutes in i was bracing myself cuz I use this brand of resin all the time. Glad it turned out so well for you, but yeah getting bubbles just seems to be a thing with resin unless you use a vacuum chamber to degas the resin and/or use a pressure pot. One could argue that for water scenes it makes sense to have air bubbles in the "water." Good video, happy casting!
Micro bubbles are usually caused during the mixing step and can be minimized by placing the mixed resin in to a vacuum chamber for about a minute before pouring. Warming the piece after pouring to about 30-35 degrees C for 5-10 minutes can cause larger bubbles to raise to the surface and pop.
Very nice diorama and good pour
You mentioned user error - do you think this resin was at least more forgiving than others? Specifically making a video for it I'm curious if you found yourself more patient/attentive than a normal pour. I gotta plan out some hellish swamp terrain for Idols of Torment!
This one was for sure more forgiving than other's I've used. I was more patient in terms of making the mold vs some sort of half assed damn (which I've done in the past) but still wasn't patient enough to REALLY make sure I had no problems. I am 100% happy with this resin and the results I got for most terrain things, just gotta try to get perfect results for when I want really clear water.
It went by pretty quick but the most interesting part of the video to me was the silicone mold, that would be really helpful for my Tau Shore Patrol bases.
I'll have to try and break that bit of the video down
Hurray! Glad there wasn't a catastrophic failure.
i've never used Resin and i keep watching your videos hoping to find something fool proof, and this is a great step in the right direction imo..i think i could actually do that...and honestly Smell is one of the biggest factors so it's been preventing me somewhat from using even my 3D printer until i got some low odor resin...
I don't want to be a party pooper, but as a die maker with long experience in resins I can assure you that without a pressure pot it is absolutely unthinkable to be able to avoid bubbles, especially in a diorama with so many textured surfaces.
The only advice I can give you in the absence of a pressure pot is to use resin with a very low viscosity (e.g. EPOXACAST 690) instead of a medium viscosity one like the ones used in the video ^ ^
Hey man just seen your video. 1st one, subscribed. Youve gotten some great advice in the comments here. I can tell you this a pressure pot will remove those bubbles if it has to be perfectly clear. No pressure pot? Have no fear. Ive been able to remove air bubbles by simply mixing it for directed time amount. Then pour into something with a wide bottom that you can pour out of easily. Make another silicone bowl like you did. Mix in cup, pour into bowl, torch it lightly bubles will be allowed to escape easier, wait a few mins, torch it again. Brush it onto your model generously, torch whats left in the 1st mold, then pour into final mold. Having it spread out and thin will give you a lil more time than if its deeper in a mixing cup. Once it starts to heat its a quick chain reaction. Im looking forward to seeing your other videos. Keep it up man.
warm the resin, and use a blow torch as you pour even if it doesn't say to, takes care of the bubbles mostly :)
Were there bubbles in the remains of the resin in the mixing cup? That should give a clue as to whether the bubbles in the model were from trapped air of the terrain/model. Love the piece though - and I enjoy the fails because some videos only show the perfect really expensive, massive pours without any hint that things can go wrong.
Pretty cool. I’ve only used resin twice and both times it worked great. Very smelly though. Thanks for sharing. Happy days and model on! 😎🇨🇦
maybe in the futer you have a Vacuum Camber or presurpot for the Bubles. for Rippels on top, most people do that with Modpoge
I guess to add to this I work with resin when making dice! The biggest thing to remember as well is to keep your nose safe and wear a fume type mask. But for the resin piece I think the best thing to get rid of bubbles is a pressure pot. I'd be happy to show you my setup if you want, I use it constantly and get perfect results! (Even in this weird Interlake climate)
This particular resin is non toxic with no VOC’s which is a big plus.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial True but usually in general I don't trust when resins say that since the combination of the two liquids creates a chemical reaction. They can fancy up the label all they want but when it comes to the exact science of how resin reacts and what fumes are released for the chemical makeup I want to protect those lungs. Trust me hearing horror stories from people who have had exposure and have developed bad health issues. If you have a well ventilated room that would help too!!
Its says mixing it slowly starts wiggling the stick real fast ahahah cool project!! I love ur vids :)
Sorry but u mixed it so quickly i kinda got frustrated ahaha
i know this video is old, but heating your resin periodically with a heatgun while mixing helps A LOT with the bubbles. so does hitting them with a heat gun or torch once its in the mold.
Retry the exact same experiment, but let the initially cure in a pressure pot (cheaper ones are available at places like harbor freight and even amazon). The pressure should force the bubbles out of the resin before its initial cure sets.
Great video! Keep it up.
though those microbubbles do add to the feel of the swamp as you can never tell what air pockets can come up and such
Vacuum chamber for a project that size is cheap and efficient way to remove all those bubbles..
If you want to mix something slow, the trick is to recite "bubble bubble boil and trouble." It is to mixing what Staying Alive is to CPR.
This is such a neat little diorama, it turned out great. Especially considering it was essentially a one day project.
Excellent work as always dude 😁❤️👍🏻
Others in the comments have suggested a pressure pot, which is good, but if you're looking for a slightly cheaper solution, a heat gun works WONDERS, and has other applications as well.
Great content as usual 😊
To truely get resin bubble free you need a pressure pot. I have used water clear resins before and the difference between not using a pressure pot and using one is like night and day. Also depending on the working time you can also degass the resin before pouring it.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Pressure pot would be a good upgrade to get rid of bubbles.
what about a vacuum chamber? to pull the bubbles up and out?
That’s good resin the second I saw the jellyfish I was like ok he should not fail lol. Good resin used before but switched to other resins at lower cost.
I use a ton of resin, like gallons a week. If you are going to be using mostly small projects I would recommend building a pressure pot. There are lots of videos and you can get the items from Harbor Freight for like $100-150. This has been the best investment ever for small items. I saw some other ones and yeah you don't want to use heat guns or lighters if you have those small models sticking out so a quick spritz with IPA will take surface bubbles away as well! Good luck in the future, resin is just too awesome for dioramas to not use.
The experience I have with resins and silicons is, stir them slowly and when people talk about a high pour it basicaly means the stream of resin gets thin towards the bottom and pops most of the bubbles. Also a first painting of the resin on your base first will stop any trapped air from rising for the second third pour ect.. Another tip which I've tried to some success is using a glass rod to pour the resin down this also allows bubbles to pop, just like a high pour but more controllable. But I must say Loved the face of mighty concentration. Have to try that..
Every time I've used resin in molds, I place the mold/model on the table and run my airbrush compressor on the table-creates small low level vibrations which will elevated the bubbles...good luck and good video
You're making me wanna try this.
resin stuff now, dang it! Lol
The bubbles kind of work for a toxic sludge pit. Chemical reactions would most likely be going on in there.
I would suggest a small pressure pot to help with the bubbles
Dang they hooked you up on ink! That had to be costly. It looks good, the bubbles can actuay add to the effect if you're going for a swamp or amarsh where stuff is decaying on the bottom and releasing bubbles.
All I could think about was-This dragon got its had lopped off and fell into a lake of kerbango. Lol.
It does look like the bubbles have formed on the surface of the base. Maybe if you brush on a thin coat of UV resin that you insta-cure on the base prior to the big pours it would minimize the amount of bubbles, and still be fast enough that you can basically run a similar process. Just two between-steps, brush resin & UV-torch it.
But it looks good regardless!
hope you'll find another idea where you can try this resin again, and find a way to make it buble free, like with the paiintbrush technique you spoke of.
thank you for tthe video
I'm pretty sure coating the piece first would resolve most of the problems, so I will try next time!
Using a heatgun after you poured the resin helps with getting rid of those microbubbles
for the future, before you pour resin into tiny cups that you can hardly read--grab a fine line sharpie and mark the line you want to fill to on both cups. makes it a lot easier :)
How long had it been since you painted the diorama?
About 48 hours, so MAYBE part of the issue but I feel like it should be enough.
I recently found out Golden's Open Acrylics (~3 hour working time) take two weeks of drying before it stops releasing gases. If you try to paint anything on top of them that's fast drying, those gases get sealed under the paint, causing it to become cloudy. Really explained a lot of problems I've been having lately lol.
For regular acrylics (which I'm assuming were used here without anything like extender or gel medium), 48 hours sounds like it would be enough? Normal acrylics without anything other than water added have 15~30 minutes of working time once they're painted on.
you'll always get micro bubbles unless you use a pressure pot. it's hard to get rid of them when you add colorant.
Resins always tricky to use but can you can get some beautiful results. Personally my biggest problem with resin is that I keep poking it before it's cured.
I have used a flame to remove the bubbles. just sweep an open flame over the top of the resin right after you pour it to remove the bubbles. Use something like a bic lighter that does not put out a hotintense flame and sweep it lightly over the surface a few times. If you hold the flamein pone place it will scorch the resi n.
I asked this on another video this am but not sure how far back in your videos you go and answer questions? I did not support Idols Of Torment for financial reasons but it looks soooo cool. I started a TH-cam channel yesterday,WESARDRY, and was wondering if I could do a video making terrain/dice tray inspired by Idols? I’ve been rewatching your videos and thought it would be a fun project and I often get inspired from your work. Thanks Wes
Absolutely. Go for it!
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial oh thank you so very much I hope you like it when I’m done
I'm impressed you didn't spill that
A few bubbles, at least it didn't froth over like your previous one... I have yet to use resin myself, it scares me a lot, especially since it's the final step after the figures etc. are finished. That said I'm thinking of doing a Rhaegar Targaryen versus Robert Baratheon fighting at the Ruby ford and I really want to have ankle deep water and (somehow) have some rubies glittering in the depths that have been smashed of Rhaegar's armour.
To pop bubbles you can always use either a hot air gun or a hair dryer and that will pop the bubbles
Their resin is by far the most user friendly.
Agree. Especially since it's non toxic.
You know, I was thinking "maybe for round bases, you could make a rubber mould around the base for resin pours".
Evidently, you had the same idea, as you demonstrated mere moments after me thinking it.
Last time I poured a stream with lots of texture I ended up with bubbles too. Next time I'm gonna try sealing the bottom with something like still water before the epoxy to try to reduce those small bubbles.
Pretty sure that was my (slight) failure point on this one.