yeah, i was thinking buy some non slip spray on the fly wheel and do the electric motor bike wheel thing and just pull the a-frame away when the motor starts.
It's nice to see the spirit of Bamfords continues. At Bamfords "a tramway ran through the moulding shop for conveying the molten metal to the moulds" Right up your street Tim!
What a series of inventive hard work to prove beyond any reasonable doubt that the engine needs a service. As mentioned before I would start with an injector and a compression test and narrow things down till you have a good understanding of the engine. Properly serviced and adjusted these engines were made to start easily. Good Luck!
Quite, and beautifully put too. My old mother used to start ours in Kenya with ease, even when she was pushing eighty! It's a little larger than this one and mounted on a solid concrete 18" plinth to set the starting handle at a comfortable height. She'd build up speed with five or six turns and then just flip the decompression. Having said that, that's a Lister with substantially heavier flywheels. Not being solidly mounted doesn't help starting at all as much of the useful kinetic energy is being transferred into "hopping" the entire engine when it hits its compression point! Hence, solidly mounting a single also increases its efficiency.
I love the washing machine repurposed as a starter. It is able to rotate long enough to get everything warmed up so you get the diesel/air mixture hot enough to combust. Much easier than the hand crank. Clever idea. Well done. Dave.
I think the engine jumping is just the nature of the beast. A flat drive belt probably won’t mind and trying to control the vibration may just cause something to break. I’d just try to duplicate how it was mounted originally. As you know they knew what they were doing years ago and it made it last this long. I’ll keep enjoying your videos! 👍
If you can find a 12volt starter generator it can be mounted permanent . It will start the engine and then become a generator while the engine is running . Set up two 12volt batteries that will run LED lights or what ever else you might need while processing the wood . Good luck can't wait to see everything up and running 👍👍🇺🇸
I suggest a tuneup. Like you said, the valves might not be seating properly anymore. Dismantle everything, check and reassemble. That is what we do to old engines to make sure. I know that if everything is okay, it's going to be easy to start.
This is madness !!! Like a lister cs the same size and type ,you crank it with the decompression lever in open position then remove crank handle and move the decompression lever to the run position..of course what is wrong here is that you need a new injector nozzle ..the diesel is not atomizing that's why you have to crank the hell out of it ..hope this helps best of luck
(Thumbs up!) Great job with the "A" frame electric motor! Much easier and somewhat safer than the horizontal gas engine we used as a starting engine when I was a boy.
perhaps a dot of white paint and an old car stroboscope to measure the RsPM? or am I dreaming again in my old age...? But whatever. I loved this episode.
This looks like a 3 1/2 HP Bamford Uttoxer engine we used to use 60 years ago to power shearing machines in Nwe Zealand. We used to run it at 500 RPM. You should drop the decompression lever only 90 deg, not let it go to the top. A few squirts of engine oil in the intake and wind over slowly with decompression lever engaged allows better starting compression. Ours was easy to start even on frosty mornings.
There are even slots in the flywheels, presumably for balancing. It's probably also a good idea to take a gander at the counterweights on the crankshaft.
There's always a compromise in using counterweights to remove vertical oscillation in that they induce a smaller secondary oscillation at 90 degrees to the cylinder axis. Personally I like to watch a big old diesel telling you that it's alive. It's the engine's way of saying 'Be careful, I have big teeth and I bite'
You could also check your injector nozzle spray pattern. If it is not atomizing properly it will be hard to start. It could also be low on compression..
Completely agree with this. Both things could be causing you problems on starting and maybe causing some unevenness in combustion (leading to excessive ‘jumping’ too !), but the compression is certainly there by the looks of it. Les
G'day again from oz, as always love all your videos, those who said don't use Aerostar etc on Diesel engines were correct, the answer to your cold start trick is, for old engines or ones that have sat for a long time take the air filter lid off if possible put it back on upside down, get a rag with some petrol on it not dripping wrap it around filter element start your engine using normal procedure, immediately upon start up remove rag! NEVER ALTER Diesel fuel with anything especially petrol, it can run away to complete destruction, Very Dangerous. This way the engine draws fumes only in through air intake for start up only, once removed it carries on with standard diesel fuel,, OH of course don't use any method that would allow the rag to be sucked into intake always apply outside of filter element. Hope this helps, this and your clever little star motor you ought to have no problems.
Some big timber’s set in the sod will do nicely for a foundation, we have a 671 Detroit diesel power unit on old railroad ties in the gravel for our sawmill, works nicely. You’ve already got the timber 😉. Your starter is brilliant, my father had a wood splitter that was hard to start, he put a motor on a plank that fit into the frame and provided the same effect as yours! Well done 😊❤️
I love your determination and ingenuity. Maybe after running it regularly, you’ll just be able to start it by hand. Counting the puffs to get the rpm is cool. Also, I didn’t know of an rpm app; I’m going to look for that.
Warming the top of the cylinder some how would modern diesels use glow plugs, yes it does bounce a bit 😀IF it is only going to work in the one place maybe some fundations to sit on.
Well done Tim! Maybe a simple sheet metal shield around the motor side of the flywheel could reduce the chance of the belt falling off to that side. Best wishes to all.
One idea that may help in cold starts is using a rag with gasoline on it. It will help the diesel start without having to use starting fluid. Starting fluid if used in excess can crack the piston rings causing low compression and consequently will force you to use it every start( either addiction). I've used this many times with no adverse affects. Hope this helps good luck and a great engine to have
That's the correct procedure I'll have to read comments from bottom first next time before waffling on with help some kind person has already offered!!
On the really cold days my grandfather used a lit rag and let the old dozer draw in the warm air from the burning rag. Amazing how fast it started. Even the old fergys had a glow plug in the inlet, I wonder why
Diesel engines . We use to use propane to help them start . Hot start or easy start ( ether alcohol) is good for gas or petrol engine . As far as using a belt to start the motor . You may want to use an idler wheel with a spring . So the belt to electric motor to diesel engine with idler wheel putting tention on the belt . When motor starts take pressure off the belt so electric motor dose not spin .
Quite a nice idea with that electric motor. Fact is if the Compression on cylinder is right you won't have difficulty in starting it but this old engine most probably is in dire need of new Compression rings and valve grind. Secondly the Injector might need a checkup in terms of nozzle tip and break pressure. Had same engine years back and it was a dream to start and run, fascinating running it at almost standstill speed. Greetings from South African Boer.
Enjoyed the progression of ideas. My humble suggestion is use a tire directly as you talked about. I now use a 20 volt drill on low speed with a rubber caster wheel in the chuck. It’s amazing how powerful the drill is. Good luck
I can vouch that starting fluid certainly works but the resultant extremely high combustion pressures blew out the head gasket and two of the combustion chamber gaskets when I used it to start my Massey Ferguson 35. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
I don't remember any other way of starting them apart from hard work on the flywheel crank, but we did have sort of home built friction disconnection of the various drive belts using a spring loaded lever and peg system which had a roller at one end that either pushed or pulled at the drive belt near the power shaft to add tension or to remove it. The springs were just like old tent guyrope springs and ensured that the belt cold flex normally depending on speed and joints without making a rigid connection to the belt by the lever.
I've already broken my thumb once using starting handles and now that I'm at the age of 77, I'm finding it a bit difficult to work up the cranking speed needed to start my Petter AC1 on a cold day. Thanks for the idea, it looks simple and used with a bit of common sense looks almost foolproof.
`I have an SD3 here and started it many times. Yours, like mine is aged, and blowing blue smoke but only just beginning life! Cranking speed is the essence, SD3's don't kick back - go for it, better than any gym workout! 1. You're nearly there when she puffs grey smoke, try Aerostart, a puff WONT hurt. 2. Warm air however you do it, helps. You do have power, try a hair dryer on the intake, or heat gun at a distance. 3 If desperate: Remove injector & 10cc oil down there and turn over lots to distribute it to seal leaky valves & rings. .... And bolt it down to a decent concrete block like it should be.
What not many realise is that as diesels compress the air they put heat into the cylinder so each time you try start it and drop the compression relases the charge of air is compressed to several hundred degrees and some of that heat warms the cylinder. The warmed air then escapes down the exhaust but eventually the cylinder will be warm enough to start just as if you'd been heating the inlet manifold! 65 years ago I watched the driver of a mechanical digger in the nearby quarry trying to start the big old diesel on a frosty morning by burning oily rags round the inlet!
Hi Tim, puts me in mind of a Thames barge here in Suffolk years ago - the old Kelvin diesel was started by a four cylinder petrol engine from a Ford Cortina! Blow torch stuffed down air inlet does help.
whuts the weight of the piston, Add that on the flywheels half the weight right side wheel. halfs the weight to the left sidewheel. counter the powerstroke,position, and the bouncing wil more or less stop.. like the balancer shaft in a honda 4 stroke
Hi Tim, please read my comments on the first video. You are using a lectrical moter to start your Bamford and still you have difficulties to start it. Check your injector nozzle presure.
Bolting the engine to a 3/4" thick steel plate, then bolting the plate to the concrete pad, will help prevent the engine from loosening from the mounting bolts.
The bicycle doesn’t need a tall frame to rest on top of the flywheel, it just needs a small frame to lift the back wheel up off the ground, and then a sloped surface for the front wheel to apply a pressure towards the flywheel. The bike seems the safest option too since the ratcheted gears will take care of kickback once the engine fires.
Look at videos of large steam engines like the ones in england that are similar to titanics. They use a smaller engine to start the bigger one. I would use your setup with a small rubber wheel and adapt the a frame with a hinged setup to move it into position. Maybe spring loaded to assist pulling away from the large flywheel after starting.
Ingenious! Can the starter frame be attached and hinged to the engine allowing more freedom for you to duck out of the way should the unexpected happen.
Perhaps you could combine the starting methods? Put a wheel on the A-frame electric motor and hold it to the flywheel. If that works that would eliminate the risk of the small belt getting tangled.
@@WayOutWestx2 use the bike you have and use the electric motor to drive the wheel in stead of the pedals. if you wanna make it nicer you could just cut the bike frame such that you leavy only the back triangle of teh frame and mount the electric motor to that frame and then put a sprocket on teh shaft to drive the chain to the back wheel.
not sure what you are going to use the engine for but it really needs to be mounted on a substantial concrete block to stop the bounce. If you are able to get a hold of the makers operating instructions/manual that would have come with the engine when purchased new from the dealer it should give you the dimensions for the concrete pad and also a lot of hints and tips on the engine.I have restored some old engines from the 50's and i have gotten hold of the manual and I was surprised what was in them. Best of luck with your engine.
Compression ignition engines need to have very fast crank speeds over the compression point.... warming the air intake helps also flame very close to the air intake helps...both used on modern engines glow plugs etc. .
Use the RPM app you need high contrast so white paint strip or a white tape strip. Check out project farm four examples. Also I suggest you check the maximum rpm on the application in the smart phone it might have a lower limit related to sampling rate of the camera
the pony starter has been invented .:) on youtube, ive seen in japan where some old time motor enthusiasts have a drill gun with a specil bit on it and use that to start the smaller engines .
I commented the other video before seeing this one and you already had it figured out. That's very much what I had in mind with the comment, nicely done! Did you happen to try the pulley drum instead of the flywheel? I bet it would be a lot easier to manage the belt if that would work.... turning on notifications now because I didn't get either of these videos in my recommendations until yesterday.
I used an electric motor to spin over a petrol/gasoline engine until all the bits got wore in after a rebuild. Then I was able to hand start it after that.
Tim, You could iron out the bouncing by adding weights to the inside of both flywheels at the appropriate points - obviously some experimentation would be needed to get the correct weight. Or, take a look inside the crankcase and see if (somehow) weights are missing from the crank web? I can't believe the makers would not make it run more smoothly. Instead of the potentially dangerous belt start, use a tyre on the electric motor and press it onto the flywheel? Keep these videos coming - your exploits make my day!
A great effort, Heath Robinson would have been proud of you but it occurs to me that it was designed to be started by hand cranking alone so your time might have been better spent investigating why it's so difficult to do so and correcting any problems found, leaky valves, worn rings, poor spray pattern etc.
@@WayOutWestx2 I am a bit late but I would want to get a good load on the engine and run for several hours. Do that a few times it may improve things significantly.
Did you ever read "The Ugly American" one of the stories happened in an unspecified country where they needed to pump water, they ended up building a frame to mount the family bicycle on to run the pump. when they were finished they could just unmount the bicycle and ride off. Here is a thought rather than run off the fly wheel maybe use the flat belt pully less chance of the belt dropping between the flywheel and motor.
I don't think diesels like it used to be, if the injectors bled frugh all you should need is to turn it quickly enough before turning on compression, another thing you can do is to pre heat the engine, a common way to do this is to give them heater plugs or heat the in coming air with a flame, you could also give it an altarnet radiator circuit with a heater, that would pre heat the entire engine, making starts more efishent.
Most of the single cylinder diesels I have seen tend to bounce a fair bit, it is their nature. Watch a single cylinder tractor with rubber tyres, it looks like its going to pounce on someone.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
RPM = Rotating Puffs per Minute
Rattle POOF mangle
Pulling the belt off the running engine looks a bit precarious. Don't get tangled up in that!
yeah, i was thinking buy some non slip spray on the fly wheel and do the electric motor bike wheel thing and just pull the a-frame away when the motor starts.
True. At least use a stick with a nail or something for a hook, not hand.
Use a rubber wheel on the electric motor.
Eh, da može potegnuti unazad i slomiti ti ruke ......😢
It's nice to see the spirit of Bamfords continues. At Bamfords "a tramway ran through the moulding shop for conveying the molten metal to the moulds" Right up your street Tim!
I must look into Bamfords more - what an interesting company for sure
I think I can, I think I can, I can, I can, I DID, I DID. Tim, you never cease to amaze me. Blessings to all 🌞
Nice old engine 👍😎🇺🇸
Nice video
What a series of inventive hard work to prove beyond any reasonable doubt that the engine needs a service. As mentioned before I would start with an injector and a compression test and narrow things down till you have a good understanding of the engine. Properly serviced and adjusted these engines were made to start easily. Good Luck!
Quite, and beautifully put too.
My old mother used to start ours in Kenya with ease, even when she was pushing eighty! It's a little larger than this one and mounted on a solid concrete 18" plinth to set the starting handle at a comfortable height. She'd build up speed with five or six turns and then just flip the decompression. Having said that, that's a Lister with substantially heavier flywheels.
Not being solidly mounted doesn't help starting at all as much of the useful kinetic energy is being transferred into "hopping" the entire engine when it hits its compression point! Hence, solidly mounting a single also increases its efficiency.
You're right! But I couldn't resist! The plan is to strip it down properly when I've built the shed around it..
Pre warm engine . Seen video heating intake air . Love the old machines
I just got a picture in my head of wylie coyote trying to invent a new way of catching the roadrunner there
Those are some smart looking pants!!
I know! How posh am I?
I love the washing machine repurposed as a starter. It is able to rotate long enough to get everything warmed up so you get the diesel/air mixture hot enough to combust. Much easier than the hand crank. Clever idea. Well done.
Dave.
I so enjoy these videos...
that said, that motor looks like it's about to take both your arms and one leg off... be safe, brother!
That's the plan!
Try using a heat gun or a hair dryer to heat the air going into the engine to help it start easier. Kind of like a makeshift glowplug.
This comment is here to boost your standing in the youtube algorithm
You see them still everywhere in rural India, as water pump or as corn mills etc
very clever
Well done!
I think the engine jumping is just the nature of the beast. A flat drive belt probably won’t mind and trying to control the vibration may just cause something to break. I’d just try to duplicate how it was mounted originally. As you know they knew what they were doing years ago and it made it last this long. I’ll keep enjoying your videos! 👍
I have two statyonary engines and this video has helped me allot!!!
If you can find a 12volt starter generator it can be mounted permanent . It will start the engine and then become a generator while the engine is running . Set up two 12volt batteries that will run LED lights or what ever else you might need while processing the wood . Good luck can't wait to see everything up and running 👍👍🇺🇸
I suggest a tuneup. Like you said, the valves might not be seating properly anymore. Dismantle everything, check and reassemble. That is what we do to old engines to make sure.
I know that if everything is okay, it's going to be easy to start.
Stuck rings too
Always a pleasure watching you work
This is madness !!! Like a lister cs the same size and type ,you crank it with the decompression lever in open position then remove crank handle and move the decompression lever to the run position..of course what is wrong here is that you need a new injector nozzle ..the diesel is not atomizing that's why you have to crank the hell out of it ..hope this helps best of luck
the spray pattern looks good, though, Jim. And we are using the decompressor lever as you describe..
I got little knowledge about the topic but it's still so fascinating and enjoyable to watch! Great work!
(Thumbs up!) Great job with the "A" frame electric motor! Much easier and somewhat safer than the horizontal gas engine we used as a starting engine when I was a boy.
Loved the bike idea but that motor definitely makes things straightforward! Nice one 👍
Very imaginative, dyna start will be next!
perhaps a dot of white paint and an old car stroboscope to measure the RsPM? or am I dreaming again in my old age...?
But whatever. I loved this episode.
This looks like a 3 1/2 HP Bamford Uttoxer engine we used to use 60 years ago to power shearing machines in Nwe Zealand. We used to run it at 500 RPM. You should drop the decompression lever only 90 deg, not let it go to the top. A few squirts of engine oil in the intake and wind over slowly with decompression lever engaged allows better starting compression. Ours was easy to start even on frosty mornings.
Well done on the starting system!
Every video is a treat!
Great solution 👌🏻👍🏻
The way to sort the vertical oscillation is to add counterweights on the two flywheels
There are even slots in the flywheels, presumably for balancing. It's probably also a good idea to take a gander at the counterweights on the crankshaft.
This might put excessive wear on the bearings.
@@Ultrazaubererger counter balances would reduce bearing stresses- thats why they have done it for over 150 years on steam engines
There's always a compromise in using counterweights to remove vertical oscillation in that they induce a smaller secondary oscillation at 90 degrees to the cylinder axis.
Personally I like to watch a big old diesel telling you that it's alive. It's the engine's way of saying 'Be careful, I have big teeth and I bite'
Well done Tim :)
You could also check your injector nozzle spray pattern. If it is not atomizing properly it will be hard to start. It could also be low on compression..
Completely agree with this. Both things could be causing you problems on starting and maybe causing some unevenness in combustion (leading to excessive ‘jumping’ too !), but the compression is certainly there by the looks of it. Les
Yep definitely the nozzle..iv restored plenty of them ..I think the flywheel counter weight could be in the wrong position too
The spray pattern looks perfect - but I'll get the injector checked anyway.
Well done! It seems sufficient. As they used to say in my hometown when I was a schoolgirl, "Onward through the fog!"
Onward!
I wonder if you could add an old car flywheel complete with ring gear to the engine & a frame to hold a starter motor in place.
Better yet, use a permanently installed starter-generator. Just a regular dc motor that turns into a generator once the engine is running.
since turning 70 I have found that I don't start as easily as I used to do, must be a thing with getting older.
Clever solution
Are you serious he just tried to invent the wheel:-))))))
Use plenty of rebars in the concrete foundation.
Fantastic solution Tim! I'll have to remember that for my engine. Hopefully it'll work as she is quite a Bit bigger....
G'day again from oz, as always love all your videos, those who said don't use Aerostar etc on Diesel engines were correct, the answer to your cold start trick is, for old engines or ones that have sat for a long time take the air filter lid off if possible put it back on upside down, get a rag with some petrol on it not dripping wrap it around filter element start your engine using normal procedure, immediately upon start up remove rag! NEVER ALTER Diesel fuel with anything especially petrol, it can run away to complete destruction, Very Dangerous. This way the engine draws fumes only in through air intake for start up only, once removed it carries on with standard diesel fuel,, OH of course don't use any method that would allow the rag to be sucked into intake always apply outside of filter element. Hope this helps, this and your clever little star motor you ought to have no problems.
bravo Tim. sei forte
Some big timber’s set in the sod will do nicely for a foundation, we have a 671 Detroit diesel power unit on old railroad ties in the gravel for our sawmill, works nicely. You’ve already got the timber 😉. Your starter is brilliant, my father had a wood splitter that was hard to start, he put a motor on a plank that fit into the frame and provided the same effect as yours! Well done 😊❤️
Thanks, Troy. So yours just sits in the gravel? and does anything keep it level?
Tim: _"I'm not getting any younger."_
You and me both, friend...😊
I love your determination and ingenuity. Maybe after running it regularly, you’ll just be able to start it by hand. Counting the puffs to get the rpm is cool. Also, I didn’t know of an rpm app; I’m going to look for that.
Warming the top of the cylinder some how would modern diesels use glow plugs, yes it does bounce a bit 😀IF it is only going to work in the one place maybe some fundations to sit on.
Are you going to make a winch, power it with this, & use it to draw the railway wagons up the line by cable?
Now there's an idea!
How about a Treadle system on the same principle as a singer sewing machine?
Well done Tim! Maybe a simple sheet metal shield around the motor side of the flywheel could reduce the chance of the belt falling off to that side. Best wishes to all.
One idea that may help in cold starts is using a rag with gasoline on it. It will help the diesel start without having to use starting fluid. Starting fluid if used in excess can crack the piston rings causing low compression and consequently will force you to use it every start( either addiction). I've used this many times with no adverse affects. Hope this helps good luck and a great engine to have
That's the correct procedure I'll have to read comments from bottom first next time before waffling on with help some kind person has already offered!!
On the really cold days my grandfather used a lit rag and let the old dozer draw in the warm air from the burning rag. Amazing how fast it started. Even the old fergys had a glow plug in the inlet, I wonder why
My dad use to use a washing machine electric motors on a board with a belt to start the old roto tiller.
I do not have this engine. Or any other for that matter (Except in the car). I just find whatever you two talk about to be interesting & so fun!
Thanks, Tracy. Most things are interesting and fun if you look at them right : - )
Thanks Tim
Great video bro. Safe travels up your way
Diesel engines . We use to use propane to help them start . Hot start or easy start ( ether alcohol) is good for gas or petrol engine . As far as using a belt to start the motor . You may want to use an idler wheel with a spring . So the belt to electric motor to diesel engine with idler wheel putting tention on the belt . When motor starts take pressure off the belt so electric motor dose not spin .
That's neat, using a leccy motor to start it! You need a name for that. Should we call it a starter motor? 😁
Quite a nice idea with that electric motor.
Fact is if the Compression on cylinder is right you won't have difficulty in starting it but this old engine most probably is in dire need of new Compression rings and valve grind.
Secondly the Injector might need a checkup in terms of nozzle tip and break pressure.
Had same engine years back and it was a dream to start and run, fascinating running it at almost standstill speed.
Greetings from South African Boer.
Enjoyed the progression of ideas. My humble suggestion is use a tire directly as you talked about. I now use a 20 volt drill on low speed with a rubber caster wheel in the chuck. It’s amazing how powerful the drill is. Good luck
Yes, I tried my drills and they could move it round but without enough vigour. They probably aren't as big as yours though
A LITTLE starting fluid won’t hurt that beast. Nice starting motor! Well done
I can vouch that starting fluid certainly works but the resultant extremely high combustion pressures blew out the head gasket and two of the combustion chamber gaskets when I used it to start my Massey Ferguson 35. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
@@mrmyorky5634 Ya gotta be careful not to spray too much. It does add element of risk.
I don't remember any other way of starting them apart from hard work on the flywheel crank, but we did have sort of home built friction disconnection of the various drive belts using a spring loaded lever and peg system which had a roller at one end that either pushed or pulled at the drive belt near the power shaft to add tension or to remove it. The springs were just like old tent guyrope springs and ensured that the belt cold flex normally depending on speed and joints without making a rigid connection to the belt by the lever.
I've already broken my thumb once using starting handles and now that I'm at the age of 77, I'm finding it a bit difficult to work up the cranking speed needed to start my Petter AC1 on a cold day. Thanks for the idea, it looks simple and used with a bit of common sense looks almost foolproof.
`I have an SD3 here and started it many times. Yours, like mine is aged, and blowing blue smoke but only just beginning life! Cranking speed is the essence, SD3's don't kick back - go for it, better than any gym workout! 1. You're nearly there when she puffs grey smoke, try Aerostart, a puff WONT hurt. 2. Warm air however you do it, helps. You do have power, try a hair dryer on the intake, or heat gun at a distance. 3 If desperate: Remove injector & 10cc oil down there and turn over lots to distribute it to seal leaky valves & rings. .... And bolt it down to a decent concrete block like it should be.
You are great!! Go ahead
What not many realise is that as diesels compress the air they put heat into the cylinder so each time you try start it and drop the compression relases the charge of air is compressed to several hundred degrees and some of that heat warms the cylinder. The warmed air then escapes down the exhaust but eventually the cylinder will be warm enough to start just as if you'd been heating the inlet manifold!
65 years ago I watched the driver of a mechanical digger in the nearby quarry trying to start the big old diesel on a frosty morning by burning oily rags round the inlet!
Hi Tim, puts me in mind of a Thames barge here in Suffolk years ago - the old Kelvin diesel was started by a four cylinder petrol engine from a Ford Cortina! Blow torch stuffed down air inlet does help.
Thanks, yes, if I had the right sort on intake I would do just that, but it's not that simple..
@@WayOutWestx2 Things seldom are!
Easy start will burn the oil in the piston and ruin the piston ring
whuts the weight of the piston, Add that on the flywheels half the weight right side wheel. halfs the weight to the left sidewheel.
counter the powerstroke,position, and the bouncing wil more or less stop.. like the balancer shaft in a honda 4 stroke
Hi Tim, please read my comments on the first video. You are using a lectrical moter to start your Bamford and still you have difficulties to start it. Check your injector nozzle presure.
maybe use the rubber wheel method but use a smaller petrol engine, or diesel engine off the same tank and permanently affix it
Here in NZ Easy start is branded as Start You Bastard. Works sometimes.
Modern diesel have glow plugs. Warm the engine somehow
I've seen a couple of old engines use compressed air for their starters. Would be interesting if you could do something similar Tim.
I think I’d check compression/piston rings and “ignition” timing
Older fuels were easier to combust
Bolting the engine to a 3/4" thick steel plate, then bolting the plate to the concrete pad, will help prevent the engine from loosening from the mounting bolts.
Nice!
great work ! most impressed
So its true what they say that simple things please simple minds:-)))))))))))
I add Marvels Mystery Oil or TCW3 to diesel fuel over here 🇺🇸
The bicycle doesn’t need a tall frame to rest on top of the flywheel, it just needs a small frame to lift the back wheel up off the ground, and then a sloped surface for the front wheel to apply a pressure towards the flywheel. The bike seems the safest option too since the ratcheted gears will take care of kickback once the engine fires.
You're right - that might work, but something to stop it all falling over, too
Look at videos of large steam engines like the ones in england that are similar to titanics. They use a smaller engine to start the bigger one. I would use your setup with a small rubber wheel and adapt the a frame with a hinged setup to move it into position. Maybe spring loaded to assist pulling away from the large flywheel after starting.
Ingenious! Can the starter frame be attached and hinged to the engine allowing more freedom for you to duck out of the way should the unexpected happen.
Perhaps you could combine the starting methods? Put a wheel on the A-frame electric motor and hold it to the flywheel. If that works that would eliminate the risk of the small belt getting tangled.
You're right - just a little tricky rigging that up
@@WayOutWestx2 use the bike you have and use the electric motor to drive the wheel in stead of the pedals. if you wanna make it nicer you could just cut the bike frame such that you leavy only the back triangle of teh frame and mount the electric motor to that frame and then put a sprocket on teh shaft to drive the chain to the back wheel.
@@WayOutWestx2 If you mount a wheel directly to the motor and hold it up to the flywheel it should work pretty simply
not sure what you are going to use the engine for but it really needs to be mounted on a substantial concrete block to stop the bounce. If you are able to get a hold of the makers operating instructions/manual that would have come with the engine when purchased new from the dealer it should give you the dimensions for the concrete pad and also a lot of hints and tips on the engine.I have restored some old engines from the 50's and i have gotten hold of the manual and I was surprised what was in them. Best of luck with your engine.
I wish could find proper instructions for mounting it, but I'm getting plenty of advice so I'll work something out..
Compression ignition engines need to have very fast crank speeds over the compression point.... warming the air intake helps also flame very close to the air intake helps...both used on modern engines glow plugs etc. .
Use the RPM app you need high contrast so white paint strip or a white tape strip. Check out project farm four examples. Also I suggest you check the maximum rpm on the application in the smart phone it might have a lower limit related to sampling rate of the camera
the pony starter has been invented .:) on youtube, ive seen in japan where some old time motor enthusiasts have a drill gun with a specil bit on it and use that to start the smaller engines .
You forgot "Get a small child to hand crank it" :D
I commented the other video before seeing this one and you already had it figured out. That's very much what I had in mind with the comment, nicely done! Did you happen to try the pulley drum instead of the flywheel? I bet it would be a lot easier to manage the belt if that would work.... turning on notifications now because I didn't get either of these videos in my recommendations until yesterday.
Might pay you to check your fuel injector, specifically to see whether it's atomizing effectively.
YOu're right. The spray pattern looks good, but I'll have it checked properly
For the 'Listeroid' engines it was recommended to mount it to a large, (ENORMOUS), block of concrete.
I used an electric motor to spin over a petrol/gasoline engine until all the bits got wore in after a rebuild. Then I was able to hand start it after that.
Very Good!... 201 🐄🦉✝
hamster - though you might need a new oe every time.
Tim, You could iron out the bouncing by adding weights to the inside of both flywheels at the appropriate points - obviously some experimentation would be needed to get the correct weight.
Or, take a look inside the crankcase and see if (somehow) weights are missing from the crank web? I can't believe the makers would not make it run more smoothly.
Instead of the potentially dangerous belt start, use a tyre on the electric motor and press it onto the flywheel? Keep these videos coming - your exploits make my day!
I'm sure I would do more harm than good, Tony. I'll bolt it down and see how that changes things first
Gasoline mixed with diesel gets you close to what petroleum used to be
A great effort, Heath Robinson would have been proud of you but it occurs to me that it was designed to be started by hand cranking alone so your time might have been better spent investigating why it's so difficult to do so and correcting any problems found, leaky valves, worn rings, poor spray pattern etc.
You're right - and the plan is to strip it down when I've built the shed around it..
@@WayOutWestx2 I am a bit late but I would want to get a good load on the engine and run for several hours. Do that a few times it may improve things significantly.
Did you ever read "The Ugly American" one of the stories happened in an unspecified country where they needed to pump water, they ended up building a frame to mount the family bicycle on to run the pump. when they were finished they could just unmount the bicycle and ride off.
Here is a thought rather than run off the fly wheel maybe use the flat belt pully less chance of the belt dropping between the flywheel and motor.
You're right, except that gearing might mean the motor can't do the job. I'll check..
I don't think diesels like it used to be, if the injectors bled frugh all you should need is to turn it quickly enough before turning on compression, another thing you can do is to pre heat the engine, a common way to do this is to give them heater plugs or heat the in coming air with a flame, you could also give it an altarnet radiator circuit with a heater, that would pre heat the entire engine, making starts more efishent.
Suggested foundation dimensions are 8' X 6' X 2' for the concrete foundation pad and 4' X 3' X 3/4" for the steel plate.
Most of the single cylinder diesels I have seen tend to bounce a fair bit, it is their nature. Watch a single cylinder tractor with rubber tyres, it looks like its going to pounce on someone.