I recommend building a very sturdy table that holds the drill on an advancing platform (similar to a drawer but incredibly sturdy), so the hole cutter is not wobbling around during wall insertion. The table/drill setup can be set to outlet height, light switch height, and wall-mounted TV outlet and cable termination height.
I mean, in 'traditional' 3d printing, we use supports that are removed later. Fancier printer setups have two nozzles; the 2nd sometimes used for just support. Watching these concrete printers, it seems that just putting a square box, if not an actual electrical outlet box frame, on the last printed layer would only require 'cleanup' with a trowel in that area, since the concrete would 'blob' around the box.
Very been an electrician for 25 years and all I can say is what a nightmare having to hole saw everything into concrete! And how is that bx supposed to stay put I could walk up and yank that out
It appears that a different kind of box structure will be needed. Something that has extendable flanges on front and back or something else to secure the boxes. Is PVC rated for electrical runs? I thought steel conduit had to be used.
To be fair, you could walk up and yank out most remodel boxes, but I hear ya. Where I work we have two big hammer drills for 7 trucks, if these became common place we'd, at the very least, have to make sure every truck had a 8 amp drill
I recommend building a very sturdy table that holds the drill on an advancing platform (similar to a drawer but incredibly sturdy), so the hole cutter is not wobbling around during wall insertion. The table/drill setup can be set to outlet height, light switch height, and wall-mounted TV outlet and cable termination height.
Expected: electric sockets are printed as part of the wall.
Reality: take a diamond drill...
I mean, in 'traditional' 3d printing, we use supports that are removed later. Fancier printer setups have two nozzles; the 2nd sometimes used for just support. Watching these concrete printers, it seems that just putting a square box, if not an actual electrical outlet box frame, on the last printed layer would only require 'cleanup' with a trowel in that area, since the concrete would 'blob' around the box.
If my drill's battery pack is dead, can I use a sledge hammer?
Are all the walls hollow? Someone in another comment section said they are filled with concrete and the 3D printed part is more of a concrete form.
Looks like the cost of electrical and plumbing will be high. Wonder how they water proof the exterior of the walls, concrete is very porous.
The crown without drill bit?
How about the plumbing?
Very been an electrician for 25 years and all I can say is what a nightmare having to hole saw everything into concrete! And how is that bx supposed to stay put I could walk up and yank that out
It appears that a different kind of box structure will be needed. Something that has extendable flanges on front and back or something else to secure the boxes. Is PVC rated for electrical runs? I thought steel conduit had to be used.
Yea tell em jon
To be fair, you could walk up and yank out most remodel boxes, but I hear ya. Where I work we have two big hammer drills for 7 trucks, if these became common place we'd, at the very least, have to make sure every truck had a 8 amp drill
The face plate probably has a couple holes for some anchor screws but yeah not much.
Simple?
nightmare
Contect no Kay ha
Hello im also working 3d printing house
Really , don't use hammer feature?? that's what it's designed for,. if this 3d wall is that brital.. DO NOT PURCHSE THE NEW TECH GARBAGE