Your videos are generally very good; you might want to rethink that one statement; end play is not effected by housing AT ALL. You can demonstrate this by assembling the e-shaft and front stationary gear in only the front housing, with the bearings plates, pump gear, distributor drive gear and front pulley on the shaft all without it being in ANY engine. The play is about the torrington play/clearance and has nothing to do with housings dimensions.
Mega thanks for the correction!!! Back in the shop to look at things after reading your comment and you're totally correct. Basically the endplay is solely based around the e shafts relation to the plate that bolts to the front iron!!! As there is nothing at all rear of that system to affect it!!! MEGA!!!!
@@jamfd3s788 read the comment from Brian, it totaly makes Sense .endplay is only adjustable from the front so if the block get's smaller it won't have any effect.
One thing my engine builder told me was to make sure there is still some float there after you have mounted the engine back to the gearbox... at first there wasn't any but after sticking the jack under the motor and not the gearbox it relieved the pressure on the input shaft and it was all good... was a massive relief.. anyways cheers for the content love the channel
I was struggling with the end play on my s4 tii rebuild I'm doing. I reached out for help on the rx7 subreddit, and they told me about you. Glad to find you because your content is fun, but your information is also super well presented. I am so much more confident in my rebuild now!
I'll be doing an s4 swap into my FB and will be changing the front cover. The general consensus I've heard is to rotate the engine 90 degrees when swapping front covers so that the Torrington Bearings do not become unset and ruin the engines endplay. This makes so much sense after watching your video, thanks!!
If you're going to have the front cover off, I would just check and make sure when you install the front stack again it's done right. Assuming the engine is out of the car. Just stand it up and do it vertically. You shouldn't need another spacer.
Love the vids as always man. I think a good idea for a future vid would be possibly for gaskets and what is needed and where they go when you do a rebuild.
Hi, I'm a fan of your channel. Very good. I have a question, I bought a 13 six port. I can use turbo 2 or twin flywheel?, the flywheels are the same diameter in the screws?. Thank you
I rebuild the engine just but new seal forgot to check end play but all same parts the engine spines fine but there no end play should i dismantle the frontcover and oil pan again to check it
@@RADPotential is that due to the 4 port intake gasket not lining up with the ports? ive heard there is a way around that, but there if is another reason please explain
If you look at the ports, the front iron being an NA 6 port, and the rear iron being the Turbo 4 port, yes it would all bolt together. But the port timing, and duration would be different. I would use matching front and rear irons. Either both turbo. Or both 6 port NA
Hey man, great videos, keep them coming! Can you share the link to the red book of secrets as you promised around 1:50 though? :) Greetings from Europe!
If you build a modified engine for more horsepower than factory Mazda , does it needs more endplay? (because they expand more because from more heat ) Or do you just stay in the mid range of what the rebuild manual states?
So... I changed out the front pulley and now I am worried I crushed the torrington inner bearing. The pulleys are lined up good (Centered) on the front. I was going to get a dial indicator and check the float. Will the dial indicator tell me 100% I'm okay if I see the float? Mazdatrix has a good write up about it too. Just super worried I'll destroy my engine. Thanks for any help!
@@RADPotential I measured the float. 0.002 inches when I pried on the front pulley. It feels a little tight though. I didn't feel it or hear any sound when doing it. It's not on a stand. On it's side ... yeah, No stand.
I also have a pic of the internal front assembly looking up with the oil pan removed. That front counter balance is super snug against the plate and almost touching those 6 bolts. The front bearing looks fine and isn't off balance or anything. It gotta be good right? haha
@@RADPotential no i did not.. Just followed the racing beat instructions. It's .002in right now. I think it's good. It wouldn't move if it was pinched tight. The motor had never been rebuilt or anything.
You are wrong about what makes change end plays. Only the front iron plate trust bearing holder tell you that. Differents trust bearings thickness, wear washers or bearings and spacer itself, other than that will not change your end play.
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Your videos are generally very good; you might want to rethink that one statement; end play is not effected by housing AT ALL.
You can demonstrate this by assembling the e-shaft and front stationary gear in only the front housing, with the bearings plates, pump gear, distributor drive gear and front pulley on the shaft all without it being in ANY engine. The play is about the torrington play/clearance and has nothing to do with housings dimensions.
Mega thanks for the correction!!! Back in the shop to look at things after reading your comment and you're totally correct. Basically the endplay is solely based around the e shafts relation to the plate that bolts to the front iron!!! As there is nothing at all rear of that system to affect it!!! MEGA!!!!
So if the plates are lapped , it wont affect the endplay ? Is that right?
It shouldn't effect the endpley, but I would still check it when you assemble the engine
@@erwinhauquier2414 yes plates being lapped will affect endplay, housings will not as they are parallel to the eccentric shaft movement
@@jamfd3s788 read the comment from Brian, it totaly makes Sense .endplay is only adjustable from the front so if the block get's smaller it won't have any effect.
One thing my engine builder told me was to make sure there is still some float there after you have mounted the engine back to the gearbox... at first there wasn't any but after sticking the jack under the motor and not the gearbox it relieved the pressure on the input shaft and it was all good... was a massive relief.. anyways cheers for the content love the channel
I have never thought about that. May go check all my cars now hha!!
Good information for the rotary community. You're doing us all a service.
I was struggling with the end play on my s4 tii rebuild I'm doing. I reached out for help on the rx7 subreddit, and they told me about you. Glad to find you because your content is fun, but your information is also super well presented. I am so much more confident in my rebuild now!
Thank you a bunch man!!! Comment with any questions!!! Stoked you found the info you need!!!
I'll be doing an s4 swap into my FB and will be changing the front cover. The general consensus I've heard is to rotate the engine 90 degrees when swapping front covers so that the Torrington Bearings do not become unset and ruin the engines endplay. This makes so much sense after watching your video, thanks!!
Also, would swapping front covers result in the possible need for a different spacer?
If you're going to have the front cover off, I would just check and make sure when you install the front stack again it's done right. Assuming the engine is out of the car. Just stand it up and do it vertically. You shouldn't need another spacer.
@@RADPotential that's the plan, thanks for the advice!
Another great radformation as always👍
Thank you Sir!!!!! I think thats about the last one I have on the list lol. time to do a compilation big long rebuild an engine video
@@RADPotential everyone loves a engine rebuild vid! Look forward to it and some more pov rips when you get the chance😊
Love the vids as always man. I think a good idea for a future vid would be possibly for gaskets and what is needed and where they go when you do a rebuild.
I'm working up to doing a comprehensive engine build video. One big long one
@@RADPotential full 12A rebuild?
this guy has basically built my engine for me... every question I have is answered by his videos.
excellent explanation, thanks
Hi, I'm a fan of your channel. Very good. I have a question, I bought a 13 six port. I can use turbo 2 or twin flywheel?, the flywheels are the same diameter in the screws?. Thank you
I have 4 dashes what spacer should I put
I rebuild the engine just but new seal forgot to check end play but all same parts the engine spines fine but there no end play should i dismantle the frontcover and oil pan again to check it
aye man im rebuild a series 5 na 13b, i want to turbo the motor, ive heard a turbo ii rear plate would work, is that true?
If you use turbo front and rear plates then yes. You can't use a turbo rear plate with an NA front plate. One is 6 port one is 4 port
@@RADPotential is that due to the 4 port intake gasket not lining up with the ports? ive heard there is a way around that, but there if is another reason please explain
If you look at the ports, the front iron being an NA 6 port, and the rear iron being the Turbo 4 port, yes it would all bolt together. But the port timing, and duration would be different. I would use matching front and rear irons. Either both turbo. Or both 6 port NA
Can they Nick Castle the rotor housings to repair them ?
Hey man, great videos, keep them coming! Can you share the link to the red book of secrets as you promised around 1:50 though? :) Greetings from Europe!
Description updated!! Thank you sir!
What If my endplay hits right under the 15 tick mark on the gage 😅
🤘🏻 💚 🤘
Do you have to tighten the bolt to spec
On a 12a rotary engine
If you build a modified engine for more horsepower than factory Mazda , does it needs more endplay? (because they expand more because from more heat ) Or do you just stay in the mid range of what the rebuild manual states?
I have not read/seen anybody running more/less endplay in any high revving or high hp builds, but I do not have any first hand experience
So... I changed out the front pulley and now I am worried I crushed the torrington inner bearing. The pulleys are lined up good (Centered) on the front. I was going to get a dial indicator and check the float. Will the dial indicator tell me 100% I'm okay if I see the float? Mazdatrix has a good write up about it too. Just super worried I'll destroy my engine. Thanks for any help!
Is the engine on a stand? If it's in the car I'd be worried. On a stand, I'd just take it apart and check for sure.
@@RADPotential I measured the float. 0.002 inches when I pried on the front pulley. It feels a little tight though. I didn't feel it or hear any sound when doing it. It's not on a stand. On it's side ... yeah, No stand.
I also have a pic of the internal front assembly looking up with the oil pan removed. That front counter balance is super snug against the plate and almost touching those 6 bolts. The front bearing looks fine and isn't off balance or anything. It gotta be good right? haha
did you measure the end play before you swapped pulleys?
@@RADPotential no i did not.. Just followed the racing beat instructions. It's .002in right now. I think it's good. It wouldn't move if it was pinched tight. The motor had never been rebuilt or anything.
You are wrong about what makes change end plays. Only the front iron plate trust bearing holder tell you that. Differents trust bearings thickness, wear washers or bearings and spacer itself, other than that will not change your end play.
hello