As a newbie senior citizen gardener, I found the information in this video very informative and helpful in planning fertilizer for my stubborn flowers in Florida soil. Thank you.
@@TheMillennialGardener that was an awesome, very informative video. Your instruction style is great, like the best teacher that throughly presents in a way that her/ his students can follow and understand. I am so impressed that I will definitely be tuning in, and following. I looking forward to having my best growing plants and garden by following your lead.
I once had two flower beds side by side planted with the same plants, fed one with a higher nitrogen fertilizer and one with a “bloom booster.” The higher nitrogen plants grew larger, had more foliage, but the flower to foliage ratio was small. The one with the bloom booster had less foliage, the plants were smaller, but the flower to foliage ratio was much larger.
That sounds exactly what should happen based on the current understanding of NPK ratios. I've personally seen this happen myself with tomatoes and peppers. Higher nitrogen formulas result in very tall plants with stingy production and small fruits. Giving them higher phosphorous fertilizers result in more compact, stockier plants full of fruit.
I have a 15x30 garden enclosed in a fence. I planted some morning glories at the end where the water runoff ended up. Absolutely lush green coverning the entire fence but not a single flower. Many people say nutrient rich soil, especially with nitrogen, has this effect.
@@TheMillennialGardener Hello! New subscriber here. Why not or is it even possible to do both supplements? I’ve seen on the Miracle Grow to apply every 7/14 days. Why not alternate?
It's usually pH lockout. We have some different kinds of soil out here.. and they usually need Vitamin B1 for the most Phosphorus uptake. Vitamin C in the soil helps keep pH down. My tap water is 8.0.
My tree is in a big pot and after tons of blossoms over several seasons, still no fruit. Time to hit the phosphorus. Love the takes on Dale. Handsome boi.
@@TheMillennialGardener Meyer lemon, bought it last year and there were zero blooms all summer. Then I had it overwintering in the basement and forgot about it... found it full of blooms last November. Even hand pollinated... nada. They all dropped. Took it up to my sunroom in the early spring when it was still too cold outside, and where there's more light. Lots of blooms. Repotted it in a larger container before taking it outside. Went through several rounds of blossoms, but I didn't see any pollinators at the time. They started to fruit, but dropped. I am thinking of moving it out to my garden where all the bees are, maybe try to get more blossoms going and see what happens. It's pretty lush with green growth right now. Have not fertilized it since it was repotted months ago.
Gotta admit I was a bit skeptical of the Bloom Booster idea myself, but this year started using with all my figs and have seen great fruit set. Figured I would test with my citrus as well similar to you. Switched my balanced fert on my Meiwa Kumquat to a 3-12-6 and BOOM! crazy flower and fruit set within a few weeks. So must be something there. Keep up the great work with the videos!
The same thing happened to me. I gave a feeding to my little 18 inch tall Meiwa and it turned into a bloom machine. Now, this little tiny plant is full of dime-sized kumquats. I may have to thin them. Pretty wild to see!
I have also found that a small dose of iron will help plants absorb and use the other nutrients like phosphorus. It behaves like a catalyst. This is probably why plants benefit from a combination of bone meal and blood meal. I believe plants are like humans; they benefit from numerous nutrients and minerals, not just the three commonly listed on fertilizer packages.
I personally believe the bone meal is the key, I used MG bloom booster and it promotes fruit but I really noticed a difference when I started using bone meal.
Plants will only uptake what they need. You can't force N-P-K on a plant if they are already getting what they need. So, If you did a soil analysis you could feed the deficiency. Love the analogy with Carbs, fat, proteins.
I think the studies show that in some plants the added phosphorus doesn't do much. Cannabis is the main focus of the research and cannabis in particular will only take so much depending on root size and the microbiome in the soil. Honestly, it is probably more the microbiome that assists in the nutrient uptake that makes a big difference.
I typically use bone meal - a small handful each week per plant. But for hanging basket/container flowers, sometimes I use Hawaiian Bug & Bloom (over 50 phosphorous!). Hey? What brand of rain barrels are you using? And how much are they?
I’m in zone 6 and have a meyer lemon tree in a container…. I fed it heavily this yr and it flowered and I have tons of lemons on it. My question is when does the fruit mature and given that I’m in zone 6 upstate New York will the cold weather affect it? Impressive on your lemons.
Lemons take awhile to go from hard-and-green to ripe. Meyer lemons "feel" different than regular lemons when they're mature, because they're crossed with an orange. The peel is very thin and a lot less pithy than a traditional lemon, so you can tell when they're ripe by the "feel." It should be firm, but with just the right about of "give." Basically, you're going to have to figure it out over time by getting that perfect feeling. I bought my mother a Meyer lemon in a nice container last year, and she started harvesting it this spring. The lemons took several months to ripen, but that was over the cool season here. It's indoors in her sunroom during the winter. They'll ripen more quickly outdoors in the summer, but it still takes awhile. I don't think these lemons on my tree will be ready until October-ish. Meyer lemons can't tolerate temps lower than around 25F unprotected, and the fruit will be destroyed with a hard freeze (28F or colder). Young plants may be injured at warmer temps. You will need to bring it inside when the frosts begin to be safe. I cover mine in incandescent Christmas lights for warmth and throw an agricultural fabric plant jacket over it anytime I see it is going to be colder than 30F.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you for a thorough explanation, you’re a gem! I’ve had my meyer lemon now for about 7 years in a container, and to be honest with you I’ve never fertilized just water it… this year I did and wouldn’t you know it it full of fruit. 😊. If only I knew. I keep it inside my garage during the winter months. Maybe and hopefully my fruit will mature in the garage, I tend to bring it in by October . Oh , the same goes with my figs, had them a few yrs this yr I gave it fertilizer watching your channel, and I have figs….they’re small though, I hope they mature and ripen too. A million thanks to you!!
The high urea foliar spray to encourage blooms a month to 6 weeks before bud break ...i got from "Millet" on the tropical fruit growers forum......he is the master Zen of citrus growing(he is in the usa) and is the guru i most respect in the art of growing citrus.....he was formerly on the" citrus growers forum" but it transitioned to the tropical fruit growers forum.........I learnt a lot from that man.
I would argue that a high urea spray wouldn't encourage blooms, but rather encourage leafy green growth and the greening of foliage. That's certainly not a bad thing to "green up" the plant if it's a little on the yellow side, but promoting too much leafy green growth may actually adversely affect blooming. You may be telling the plant to place more energy into leafy growth at the expense of fruiting since plants only have "so much energy" to go around. I tend to not give a lot of nitrogen unless the plant is starting to lose its nice green color.
@@TheMillennialGardener Logic would make you think that but thats a tip from Millet on the "Tropical fruit growers forum"...in fact its quite well known for doing that....check it out...plus i have done it every year as well and i wouldnt tell lies.........one other thing to consider......what do all these fruits themselves have in common = strawberries....blueberries....tomatos....cucumber(yes its a fruit)...avocado...citrus...bananas ....kiwifruit?...they are all high in potassium......so it stand to reason they would have a high need for that nutrient to reach full ripeness.....none of these fruits contain a high amount of Phosphorous......imho you are getting your results from the urea ......i know citrus roots absorb npk 5.1.3 but i dont know about the stomata in the leaves....Foliar feeding has its place...particularly to supply trace elements ..esp in winter when roots are not very active.....but you have nothing to lose by trying what i suggest a month to 6 weeks out from spring or going on that forum and asking millet because he has far more experience and expertise than either of us ! p.s Nitrogen is the most important nutrient along with MG and iron for citrus.......if it doesnt get enough you will get stunted growth and fruits wont reach their max potential......its esp important its available at the roots ready for spring burst...which is what i am having now and some of my trees are going nuts...a few others are just waking up with buds....UREA is the bees knees for citrus but unfortunately......that is what the citrus leafminer look for when they appear when the weather warms up......thats candy to them....that what they seek and thats why its bad to feed them much of that in autumn burst.(thats in aussie anyway).....i can vouch for the foliar feed with high urea....ive done it and it works a treat and no doubt its good for young leaves as well....all the best....go and say hi to millet......that guys a wealth of knowledge all things citrus..........just tell him "Laidbackdood" sent you.
Thats a lot of fertilizer ya got there. Whats interesting to me is dilution and how it affects ratio's. The amount of ferts put on an area is dependent on the manufacturers recommendations for the amount that goes in a 2 gallon bucket. I'm not aware if there's a standard or if all manufacturers use different amounts. Miraclegro is generally 1tbsp/gallon. What does Jack's recommend?
The Jack's bag is very difficult to read. It has a huge load of instructions, including how to apply for fertilizing through drip lines. I'm currently using it similarly to the MiracleGro product.
It does work! and thanks for the video! I purchased a Meiwa Kumquat tree and it wasn't doing anything with a regular fertilizer from April to beginning of July, I started feeding it with MG Bloom booster after that I got flowers and fruits forming now , it's a young tree and I'm sure it will drop some , I will put it in my heated greenhouse if it gets too cold in the next few months here in 6B, next year I will use the MG Bloom booster from the beginning of spring.
That's funny. I purchased a very small grafted Meiwa back in March. I hit it with Bloom Booster, and it flowered profusely within 2 weeks. Now, it's loaded with quarter-sized fruits. It's such a small tree, so it's pretty wild to see so much fruit on it.
Hi ! Love your videos ! I used the bloom booster for my cucumbers last year ! And I will tell you, I had baby cucumbers everywhere! It works ! I will use the bloom boosters for all of my fruit and vege,s that flower and fruit ! IT WORKS ! ❤️🩹💕💞
Fruit trees, in my opinion, don't make good plants for controlled experience. I've seen too much variation from plant to plant, even if it's a clone. The life cycle of trees often exceeds that of a human, so there are too many variables. I think seed-grown annuals the fruit - like a tomato, pepper, etc. - are better candidates for controlled experiments, because their shorter life cycles allow for more consistent growth and less variance from plant to plant.
Water soluble fertilizers and slow release granules have entirely different purposes. The water soluble fertilizers are immediately bioavailable, so they "kick in" immediately. If you're trying to force blooms based on timing of the the season, you'll need to use the water soluble types. The slow release and organic fertilizers are more like soil amendments and are added periodically. I do not use slow release or organic bloom boosters, because I believe them to be pointless. I just use 5-5-5 organics to build my soil. It's the rapid soluble stuff that's key. I've never used the isolated phosphorous, though.
I have the item linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description, and I have a video all about it here: th-cam.com/video/AHYkfvOytmE/w-d-xo.html
An experiment without a control group is not an experiment at all. I love your channel and use your fertilizer program for my figs, it works great. However what you presented in this video is still purely anecdotal. Maybe 3 groups using fig cuttings, say RdB. Have to use more than one cutting in each group to account for variability of individual cuttings. Group 1 has three cutting that get compost and organic fertilizer only. Group 2 has three cuttings that get balanced NPK. Group 3 has three cuttings that get bloom booster. Compare growth in height and number of figs harvested. Might even be a two year experiment since fruit production in first year is more variable than subsequent years.
I would agree with you in most instances, except the following: 1. It's not possible to have a true controlled experiment in a backyard garden, because there are so many variables that cannot be properly controlled. No matter what I do in this environment, it can be picked apart by naysayers. 2. When a 1 year old tree that has never blossomed immediately bursts out into blooms 8 days after being fed a large dose of high-P fertilizer, it becomes obvious enough that a control group isn't needed. If you punch someone in the arm and the person screams, "OUCH!", you don't need a second person nearby not getting punched to be certain that it hurt. I don't think figs are realistic controls, because individual cuttings can vary so much in performance. Seedlings, I think, would be better candidates, but running an experiment like that would take, literally, a year. It's too late in the season to design an experiment like that, unfortunately, so we work with what we have available. I may be able to trial on my container citrus next season, or some type of seedling, but it needs to happen in the spring at this point.
@@TheMillennialGardener I agree with you that there are many variables, including the skill of the gardener. I don’t think it’s surprising that you have blossoms on a 1 year old tree. You’ve got one heck of a green thumb. You prepare the soil. Those blossoms could have been there whether you fertilized or not. To design an experiment you control as many variables as you can, and use a large enough sample size to blunt the impact of individual differences. It would be a large undertaking and require 1-2 years to get results. But unfortunately that is what is required. I’m surprised larger fertilizer companies haven’t done large scale studies like these, they have the money and potentially gain from positive results.
Potted trees fruit early because they become root-bound, which leads to premature fruiting. In-ground trees take much longer. I explained that in this video, and showed you my other potted citrus that fruited much earlier because of this.
Bananas actually like high nitrogen and potassium. In my experience, potassium is the thing that helps them fruit more quickly. It may be because they grow from a corm, since it has some unique properties.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok. I originally used a syntetic 17-17-17. However i switched to bone and blood. Once it has some size switch to a high pottasium only source?
No. Bone meal is an organic material, and takes weeks and months to break down. It doesn’t provide readily available nutrients to plants. The native soil microbiome must slowly break it down overtime. The water soluble fertilizers are immediately bioavailable to plants, because they have been processed into readily available forms. This gives your plants an immediate boost. Bone meal is a great addition to work into your soil in many cases, especially if you live in sandy soil like I do, but it is different than water soluble fertilizers.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you so much for your answer. I just went and bought some Bloom booster miracle Gro. I have about 60 different varieties of chili pepper plants and they’re growing tall and green, but there’s no flowering, and I planted them in May. I live in Houston and as you know it’s hot here, but I still feel that they should of flowered by now. Hopefully the bloom booster will help them. I’m growing them in 3 gallon containers outside. Any suggestions that I may need or will it just take time for them to flower. Thanks
In 2022 I just can't find 20-20-20 locally while in the 1980s and 1990s it was in abundance. Not sure why, and I despise having to go to Amazon for much of anything these days. Don't feed the beast.
I have to order mine online. I have 20-20-20 linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description. You can also order it from websites like Greenhouse Megastore and DoMyOwn. I've ordered from all three sites with good results.
@@TheMillennialGardener I wonder why these things are no longer available locally? Amazon is going to destroy everything which is why I try to not feed that beast, but sometimes I still have to.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yeah, I was just laughing at the amount of filler in a $100 sack of fertilizer. I also bought both of those bags after seeing your other video on them. They seem to have solved my problems.
Thanks for the interesting video; I did a fertilizer experiment of my own several decades ago when I was managing a cattle ranch in northern Alberta. Despite fertilizing quite heavily with nitrogen and phosphorous my hay crop continued to do very poorly averaging only 30 square bales to the acre. However I noticed that whenever I crossed an old windrow where all the trees had been burned the grass was lush and dark green; I realized this must be because of the additional potassium from the ashes, so purchased a large amount of potash fertilizer, which is nearly pure potassium and spread it on all my hayfields at the lowest setting on the spreader, about 75 pounds per acre. My hay crop that year averaged 90 square bales to the acre and in some fields the hay was over 5 feet tall! I noticed also that the seed heads on the timothy grass were 4 to 6 inches in length rather than the 2 inches I had previously seen. That showed me what a difference potassium could make in the growth of plants, in this case grass for hay.
Very interesting. My experience with potassium is this: potassium is the nutrient driving the overall metabolic health of the plant. I don't think potassium on its own is very effective, but potassium needs to be scaled with the growth rate of the plant. So, if you want the tree to put on a huge amount of new growth, you can't just give it nitrogen. You need to give it nitrogen and potassium. The nitrogen directs the plant to grow more, and the potassium provides the precursor nutrition for cellular division. The N:P ratio tells the plant how to grow, but you need to add K with it in adequate quantities to support the growth. That's my observation. You can dump all the nitrogen on the grass you want, but it won't grow big and green if there isn't enough potassium in the soil to support the growth. That's why old, sluggish forests explode into youthful growth after a fire.
It works well. It's frustrating, because so many people think Miracle Gro is owned by Monsanto. That's not even true. It's a Scott's product, and Monsanto no longer exists. Monsanto is now Bayer, and do you have any idea how many pharmaceuticals are in everyone's medicine cabinet made by Bayer? It's funny where the hyperfocus lies.
Bloom booster skeptics must’ve not watched your earlier videos on how to fertilize. The Fertilizing Figs in Spring video was a gardener’s awakening and game-changer for me! As always, top notch gardening information, thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you! A lot of people don't like buying fertilizer, so there's a lot of resistance out there. I get it. It's expensive, and fertilizer companies are often responsible for a fair amount of pollution and bad news headlines, but the stuff really does work. The key is *responsible usage,* because it's harmless in a backyard setting when used as directed.
Thank you. You can't imagine how long it takes to tag every single video with timestamps and chapters 😓 But I do it because I think it helps. Glad to hear it's worth it!
That Meyer lemon should not even grow in your area and the fact it’s doing so well and fruiting is pretty amazing. We use 0-50-30 water soluble as a bloom set fertilizer on a number of plants. It works especially well on melons at least doubling fruit set. I’m an advocate for using the high phosphorus type fertilizers.
You're correct - the Meyer lemon will die here without intervention. We have had back-to-back 9a winters here, but we're a Zone 8a, so the *big chill* is coming. It's only a matter of time until this tree sees 13F. The house provides a nice micro-climate alongside a plant jacket and lights, though, so I'm able to give it an extra 5-10F, but I'll have to be on my game. Glad to hear you've had similar results with the high-P. I honestly don't know how people can badmouth it, because the results are so consistent and obvious when used properly.
Hi from Australia. Great work. To have definitive proof, it would be good to have a couple of control plants where you don't give these fertilizers so you can actually see a difference. That would be the ideal scientific method as you cannot fully confirm or exclude the effect without a control. Having said that though, I don't have much doubt that added phosphorous works to increase flower production.
It's too late in the season to begin an experiment like that, because it would have to be conducted over 3+ months. I've used this analogy in the past: you don't need to run a controlled experiment to know that punches hurt. If you punch someone in the arm and they cry out in pain, you don't need a separate control group to be certain it hurt. When a baby plant that has never flowered before suddenly flowers 8 days after a Bloom Booster application, that's either the world's biggest coincidence, or it's strong evidence. I may be able to run an experiment with tomatoes, but it will need to be done beginning in March here due to temperatures.
@@TheMillennialGardener it could have been a coincidence, that's why double blind tests are true science. You maybe correct in you assertions about fertilizer but this was not a scientific test by any means.
If you do this experiment again, start out with two similar plants. Fertilize one with a high phosphorous fertilizer and fertilize the other one with a low phosphorous but equal N and K fertilizer. Then you will be able to tell is the extra phosphorous makes a difference. With your lemon tree experiment, we don't know if the extra phosphorous made a difference or not as we were unable to know how the tree would have performed without the extra P. Maybe it would have done just as well. We can't know. Have a control tree (no extra P) and a test tree (added P). If the only difference in the treatment of the two trees is that the one got extra P and the other didn't, then you will know what the effect of the added P really was.
I can try this with annuals next year during the spring when the growing season allows, but this was a pretty immediate reaction. A controlled experiment is almost impossible to do with a tree, because they tend to grow at their own pace. It's better done with seed-grown annuals because of their short lifecycle.
To chime in 8 months later. For posterity you could also have a third plant that doesn't get any extra nutrients. Just normal ol water. Larger sample sizes provide more certain and reproduceable results.
You surely can't know if it worked by just one plant, and even when I have three identical plants, same size, seedling batch etc. put into 3 exact pots with same soil, sun and water, I often get three different plants. Sometimes one just hits a sweet spot in the soil and goes haywire while the others may be feeling things out. These tests are only valid if they are done many times over and over again. Just curious has anyone done side by sides yet on a video? Thanks!
Interesting but I would think a few experiments with some plants fertilized and some not would give you a better idea of whether or not there is a benefit.
There are always a lot of variables in backyard gardening, so it's hard to set proper controls. That being said, sometimes things are so obvious that you don't need controls. When a young plant that has never flowered before suddenly flowers all over its lower growth 8 days after being fed Bloom Booster, that's as obvious a reaction as I can provide. If that's a coincidence, then I have a bridge to sell 😂
This is designed to keep flowering plants green and promote flowering. But don't use this for flowering marijuana. To much nitrogen to finish canabis. You just want high P and K and no N to comple the marijuana cycle.
It's too hot at this time of year for root vegetables where I live, but I may be able to do that with beets and carrots over the winter. I don't usually fertilize beets and carrots aside from the normal refreshing of beds with compost, but I can try.
Super informative - as always. I am amazed that I always learn facts that are totally new to me and I have been a so-so gardener for years now. THANK YOU.
Apparently my flowering plants are not aware of this “ new study “ I have been using 15-30-15 fertilizer on my flowering plants with outstanding results consistently getting compliments from passersby. That’s my old school study .
I have a small raised bed garden and grew half a dozen chili peppers this summer with no amendments and had quite good results. I saw this video and decided to add the bloom buster when the first crop was done. I did it just like you said (adding the fish fertilizer), once a week, and had tons of blooms after about two weeks!!! But the new peppers are about half as long and very skinny and the first dozen or so almost immediately turned red and shriveled up. The ones that are making it are only about 1/4" wide. What did I do wrong or what do I do now? Thanks!! (love this channel)
Cuz lucky you bought an grafted fruit tree,, plus you saying things all wrong, if you neva buy one grafted lemon tree and planted a seeded one you started dreaming on you would not be able to bear fruit for at least 10 years so no matter how much phosphorous you give a young lemon tree you ain't going force it to bloom from a planted regular fruit tree, ps not even five year old tree, that's why I always buy airlayer or grafted trees in 2 to 3 years fruit starts to happen, yer explanations not so good especially wen I know, I've been using miracle grow for ever, let see 1974 im 71 born 1951, I grew the best smelling,tasting, stoney weed, I also made black oils from scraps toss aside leaves, stems, shakes, add alcohol to a mayonnaise glass jar add all yer goodies inside soak for 30 days the longer the better put in dark area shake jar every 5 days wen done get one glass container and cheese cloth pour mixture thru yer cloth into the glass jar throw away all the rubbish put yer glass container with the mixture on top of garage where there's plenty of sun to evaperater the alcohol wen almost gone you should see the black tar oils on the bottom, toss out the remaining slush on the bottom dumped it get one butter knife to scrap out the oils, get some small viles to put the oils inside I used a lit candle to heat up the butter knife to slide the oil off the tip now no matter what brand u ou buy those number will never change, and the 3 letters N P K remember first number is always nitrogen like N-30, P - 10 , K- 10 this is for nitrogen, now phosphorous second number 10 30 10 is always highest like N - 10, then phosphorous 30, then K - 10 like I said I use this for years and it work good enough for my plants
Most trees do better the second , the third, the fourth year, etc. etc. Can you credit the fruit growth on age, or fertilizer ? Did you test the soil, to see what it actually needed , first ? You can't base results, with out at least one control plant.
I use both, and I find them both to be fine. I also use the Walmart Expert Gardener 24-8-16, because it's half the price of the MiracleGro. I recommend buying the stuff you can get at the best price. I have them linked in my Amazon Storefront if you need a source. You can buy the Jack's in bulk. I bought 2 bags last year, and I still have 80% of it!
I also agree with adding phosphorus my wife has hanging baskets they require watering twice a day every other day we put miracle grow phosphorus blooming in the same ratio you were using for those hanging flowers. we had several that we did not do that with and they don’t hold blooms as long as a matter of fact they end up just being a lot of greenery .when we went back to putting a miracle Gro on ,they came back not as strong but they did come back so whether it’s flowers or fruit phosphorus matters. Thanks for your videos and advice always great stuff.
I agree that in every side-by-side comparison that I've run, the higher phosphorous water-soluble fertilizers really do cause increased blooming, whereas the higher nitrogen fertilizers have the opposite effect. I'll try to run a more conclusive study next spring. Thanks for watching!
Another neat experiment would be to do high nitrogen with younger plants and then switch to a "bloom booster" midway through. And maybe compare that to a strictly only nitrogen and only bloom booster plants
I do this a lot for my plants. High nitrogen to grow a lot of leaves and then when you switch to bloom booster all of energy being produced by the photosynthesis goes into flower and fruit production instead of more leaves. I usually flip fertilizer at about the time I see the first natural bloom appear then I try to push them into a turbo-blooming phase.
Could you provide the titles of the research articles? I have read articles that made claims that fertilizers like Super Phosphate / Triple Super Phosphate and other fertilizers that contain rock phosphate are only able to deliver about 10% or so of their phosphorus contain each year. This is because the rock phosphate is not very soluble and takes a long time to break down and as a result it does not need to be used very often.
Certainly. Here is something to read: www.gardenmyths.com/bloom-booster-fertilizer-nonsense/ This article is absolute junk, because it is centered around a bogus premise: _Adding phosphorus to soil that already has enough phosphorus, or adding it to one that is deficient in one of the other nutrients, will NOT make plants grow better. You are just wasting a natural resource or worse, making your soil toxic._ Of course adding more phosphorous to a soil that has *too much* phosphorous in it already is bad. 1. How many people have plots of land with too much phosphorous in the soil? Hardly anyone. 2. Most forms of phosphorous found in soil aren't actually bioavailable to the plant, because it's tied up in molecular forms of phosphorous that the plant cannot assimilate. I can't get healthy levels of iron in my diet by eating chunks of rebar, because my body can't process sheets of metal! I need natural forms found in food that my body can use! Most phosphorous found in soil cannot be used, and for people that are growing in containers, they need to constantly replenish the nutrients in the container. This is why you can't trust agenda-driven articles like this, and you need to run your own experiments and see with your own eyes.
You kind of lost me at the beginning. I'm not really sure what argument you're making or what study you're referring to that says these nutrients aren't useful to add.
I'm addressing the constant argument that water soluble fertilizers are somehow dangerous or toxic to soil or don't work. It's nonsense and isn't true.
Hi! I was wondering why you used Bloom Booster on your Meyer lemon tree to demonstrate the effectiveness of a high Phosphorus fertilizer rather than running the experiment on your pepper plants, as an example? I remember from an older video you posted about citrus trees that they need a higher Nitrogen intake. I know it wasn't the point if this video, but if you had used a higher Nitrogen fertilizer, would there have been more fruit set even though your tree is young? I've been using a lot of the fertilizing information from your videos to help fix my garden and they've been extremely helpful!
My pepper plants, at this point, were many months old and already in varying stages of fruiting, which makes it more difficult to assess what's going on. My Meyer lemon had not yet fruited to date, so I wanted to see if I could force it to flower. The reason why I chose this tree is both because it's never fruited before, and because the Meyer lemon is a rare type of "everbearing" citrus that doesn't have a defined flowering season, ripening season and harvesting season (like most fruit trees do) and is capable of flowering and fruiting all throughout the year at key intervals. To answer your question about the NPK, a lot of things that I do on this channel is experimenting as I go along to find out what works best. I've only been growing citrus for a few years, so I'm still trying to figure out what works best for all these different trees. In my observation, citrus seems to be able to fruit very heavily being fed higher nitrogen at all times, but phosphorous is still a critical component in flowering/fruiting. I'm theorizing that citrus trees, for whatever reason, have a lower P-requirement, but it's still a critical macronutrient. What I wanted to see is if a sudden boost of high-P could get it to flower earlier than it wanted to be. Once the tree gets into its groove and begins to bear more heavily as it ages, it probably won't be necessary to give it Bloom Booster type fertilizers anymore, since in my experience, citrus don't need as much as something like a tomato or a fig. Don't take anything in this post as scientific fact. It's more the theories that I'm working under as I continue to evolve my fertilizing regimen.
It works when it's used at the appropriate time of the year and during the appropriate part of the fruiting cycle, assuming you don't have an overabundance of bioavailable phosphorous in your soil. This is true 100% of the time in containers since they're so limited, and in most soil natural soil types. It isn't something you should use all season for sure, but strategically timed, it helps me a lot.
@@TheMillennialGardener exactly , I use it at detain times of the year for my container figs and garden ! I follow your guidance on fertilizer schedule and it works great . Thanks again
Damn bro that is some awesome growth in one year on your Meyers lemon!! However my mouth is watering whilst looking at that gorgeous Avo! OMG awesome video brother thanks again!!🙏🏻
Thanks. The Meyer is looking great. I'm very happy. My Lila avocado is *really* taking its time. It's on its 3rd season, and it dropped 100% of its fruit all three years. Hopefully next year is the year it'll fruit. I have to give that tree a big haircut. It's grown too much, and I need to reduce it literally 50%.
I never water my Meyer lemon tree in ground. Aside from the initial planting period, where I watered it for the first week or two, it has never once been watered except for these times where I've given it soluble fertilizer. There's no need to water any established tree in-ground where I live. As for the citrus in containers, they get watered every single day during the growing season. The reservoirs in the self-watering containers get filled daily, as well as the soil tops get soaked down. The avocado tree is almost as tall as my house, but it once again dropped its fruit, sadly. I will be heavily pruning it in late August to prepare for winter.
I've had three fruiting Meyer Lemon trees for over seven years and have been growing them in 30 gallon containers. The trick to container Lemon trees is to pay attention to the leaves. If they yellow... it may be too much water. BUT it may also be not enough water. My trees are VERY ROOT BOUND! If your tree blooms profusely (like mine have done) make sure they get full sun to help set the fruit. I have also found 90% of the pollinators appear to be bumble bees and a few honey bees also find the blooms. Again, too much water and some of the fruit will drop, and if they don;t get enough water, the fruit will drop. Early Spring pruning (like in mid March or early April) and then hitting them with the high phosphorus fertilizer seems to help them get the energy to set and keep fruit. I'm in central North Carolina so my trees go inside a make-shift greenhouse when the weatherman says "frost"... they stay there until mid March. Good luck.
This is the best gardening channel, period. Other gardening channels: yay fruits everywhere, fun fun fun, positivity positivity positivity, I never have any problems, I'll never teach you or discuss that I spray my peach trees against PC and OFM, I don't know what slugs are, I bury dead raccoons in my raised bed. It's basically a platform for them to show of, and they sweep the practical reality under the rug. COUGH james prigioni COUGH self sufficient me COUGH. We get nothing out of it. Your videos are actually helpful man. Your organza bag and japanese pull saw recommendation are the X factor. No lie, that saw is better than even $1000 pruning shears. Can't believe my japanese pruning shears cost more than the saw. I still use the pruners for the tiny branches. But other than that, they suck. And they are ARS pruners too.
I appreciate that. I love Mark and James's channels. I actually just finished watching one of James's videos 20 mins ago, but I do wish there was more tips and tricks and how-to's versus garden tours and harvest videos. My garden is less impressive than theirs, for sure, but my goal at the end of the day is to convince non-gardeners to try gardening, and small gardeners to grow more stuff, and I think it's easier to show them how to do it. My favorite garden channel is probably The Rusted Garden because all Gary does is teach, teach, teach. It's a lot less flashy and the editing is so basic, but it's so informative and helpful. If you aren't following Gary, you absolutely need to. I told you that $20 saw is king. I wouldn't lie to you! I'm not going to get people into gardening by recommending $300 pruning products, but a $20 saw? That's cheaper than a pizza delivered to your house. I'm STILL using the original blade on my saw 2 years later. Granted, it's close to end of life, but that thing is a beast. It probably deserves its own video, because people are wasting money on expensive stuff that's inferior!
I wish i learned anything from this video...the plant might have done much BETTER with a balanced fertilizer, we'll never know. I like your content and am a subscriber, but there is a basic framework for the design of an experiment, you might serve viewers better by applying it. If you really care to do something meaningful, line up a few containers (I'd go for 20 gal bags so no real effect from the container), and plant the same peppers or tomatoes and fertilize each with a different ratio fertilizer at various stages of growth and see what happens. Of course even that means little as one ratio would be expected to be best at a given stage (for example high N early to promote leaf and stalk) but you should be able to show some difference between high N and high P when it came to flowering and fruit set time. Is this not well established horticultural science anyway? I'd expect my County Extension agent to be a wealth of proven science on the subject...
My understanding of potassium is different. Nitrogen and phosphorous are "behavioral" macronutrients in the sense that by playing with the ratio of Nitrogen:Phosphorous, I can sort of direct how much leaf growth or how much flowering the plant produces. I don't think potassium has that effect. Rather, that's the nutrient that "funds" the biological processes, so potassium should be scaled to the growth rate of the plant. The faster the plant is growing, the faster the cells are dividing, the more potassium you need to support the life processes. I don't buy high potassium fertilizer blends. Instead, I have a small bag of 0-0-60 that I occasionally add. The only plant I've found that responds well to huge doses of potassium are bananas. I think there is danger in too much potassium, but I could be wrong.
This doesn’t really prove your point. You should have use three group of plants, one for 1-2-1 ratio, one for 1-1-1 ratio and one for control (no formula), or something similar. This prove that you have a healthy lemon tree and nothing more.
Should of done a side by side experiment with the same plant types compared with a nitrogen based fertilizer. This doesn’t prove anything 🤷🏼♂️ You fertilized it so of course it grew more.
I have a hard time with fertilizers. I have tried organic fertilizers and it was a disaster. It's hard for me to tell what N P or K a plant need. I have tomato plants now in 5-gallon buckets that are 3 feet tall with no blooms. I planted them in Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil.
I wouldn't recommend it. Trying to force a tree to flower a few months after it was planted isn't a good idea. You want the tree to grow roots the first 1-2 years. I would amend the soil with an organic, slow release fertilizer around a 5-5-5 NPK and also with some added bone meal to encourage slow root growth. I would not wait my fruit tree to set any fruit the first year, and maybe only 3-4 fruits at most the second year. The third season, you can allow it to fruit some.
Kool was worried about bloom booster from all purpose fertilizer cause i thought bloom booster would be poision it you give it to fruit and vegetables plants
Do you have any APPLE TREES you are keeping in large containers?? If so, please do video's on that. I have 2 apple trees in large (huge containers)...Year # 2...help please. I rent, and not allowed to plant in ground......Planning on a move to tiny house in Newport TN next year.
I am not growing any apples. The reason why is because my climate may be too hot for them. Apples like cooler climates, and that's just not where I live. Apple trees are rare here in the South. Much of Tennessee is Zone 7, so apples probably do well there, but here on the Zone 8 coast, it would be harder.
You should actually do a soil test first. The goal is to add the nutrients your soil is missing. For example adding too much nitrogen to your soil will create an excessive carbon output from your plants. This is why there are different blends, because it’s intended to be based on the needs of your soil.
In my opinion you needed a control plant to compare results. What if the plant you used was getting ready to set flowers anyway with or without bloom booster?
Hi, new sub here and really like your channel! I have not read all the comments nor the studies, but one thing I know is that if magnesium is not available, then the phosphorus won’t be absorbed. So did the studies just focus on phosphorus without the addition or magnesium? I always throw some Epsom Salt down with Phosphorus.
Wow awesome video and amazing results!!! I just watered my lemon, lime and orange container trees with the MG bloom booster food so let's see what happens. The trees are super healthy with alot of deep green foliage but not much fruit so I figured it would be safe to use this at this point based on your recommendations!
Excellent. You may want to follow up with a second application after 14 days if you do not see blooms right away. If the foliage is very deep green, you may want to back off on the nitrogen, though. Very dark green implies too much nitrogen, which can cause problems. It shouldn't be too dark. Your foliage shouldn't be any darker than the leaves on my Meyer lemon in this video.
@@TheMillennialGardener the leaves look just like your Meyer....been only using the Jack fertilizer but haven't gotten much fruit at all the past 2 years. Will try another dose of bloom booster in 2 weeks...thanks for your reply and keep up the good work!!
As a newbie senior citizen gardener, I found the information in this video very informative and helpful in planning fertilizer for my stubborn flowers in Florida soil. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Best of luck and thank you for watching!
It finally clicked! Thank you for that simple, layman's term breakdown of N-P-K! I'm a newbie to gardening, so this was extremely helpul!
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!
@@TheMillennialGardener that was an awesome, very informative video. Your instruction style is great, like the best teacher that throughly presents in a way that her/ his students can follow and understand. I am so impressed that I will definitely be tuning in, and following. I looking forward to having my best growing plants and garden by following your lead.
I once had two flower beds side by side planted with the same plants, fed one with a higher nitrogen fertilizer and one with a “bloom booster.” The higher nitrogen plants grew larger, had more foliage, but the flower to foliage ratio was small. The one with the bloom booster had less foliage, the plants were smaller, but the flower to foliage ratio was much larger.
That sounds exactly what should happen based on the current understanding of NPK ratios. I've personally seen this happen myself with tomatoes and peppers. Higher nitrogen formulas result in very tall plants with stingy production and small fruits. Giving them higher phosphorous fertilizers result in more compact, stockier plants full of fruit.
I have a 15x30 garden enclosed in a fence. I planted some morning glories at the end where the water runoff ended up. Absolutely lush green coverning the entire fence but not a single flower. Many people say nutrient rich soil, especially with nitrogen, has this effect.
@@TheMillennialGardener Hello! New subscriber here. Why not or is it even possible to do both supplements? I’ve seen on the Miracle Grow to apply every 7/14 days. Why not alternate?
Because growth requires high nitrogen and bloom requires high potassium and phosphorus.
😊 we
It's usually pH lockout. We have some different kinds of soil out here.. and they usually need Vitamin B1 for the most Phosphorus uptake. Vitamin C in the soil helps keep pH down. My tap water is 8.0.
Informative intelligent easy to follow comprehensive thanks for your work
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
My tree is in a big pot and after tons of blossoms over several seasons, still no fruit. Time to hit the phosphorus.
Love the takes on Dale. Handsome boi.
What kind of tree is it, and what happens to the blossoms? Do they drop?
@@TheMillennialGardener Meyer lemon, bought it last year and there were zero blooms all summer. Then I had it overwintering in the basement and forgot about it... found it full of blooms last November. Even hand pollinated... nada. They all dropped. Took it up to my sunroom in the early spring when it was still too cold outside, and where there's more light. Lots of blooms. Repotted it in a larger container before taking it outside. Went through several rounds of blossoms, but I didn't see any pollinators at the time. They started to fruit, but dropped. I am thinking of moving it out to my garden where all the bees are, maybe try to get more blossoms going and see what happens. It's pretty lush with green growth right now. Have not fertilized it since it was repotted months ago.
I started a week ago using miracle grow bloom booster on my plants. I am looking forward to seeing how it works. Thank you
Any updates????
Gotta admit I was a bit skeptical of the Bloom Booster idea myself, but this year started using with all my figs and have seen great fruit set. Figured I would test with my citrus as well similar to you. Switched my balanced fert on my Meiwa Kumquat to a 3-12-6 and BOOM! crazy flower and fruit set within a few weeks. So must be something there. Keep up the great work with the videos!
The same thing happened to me. I gave a feeding to my little 18 inch tall Meiwa and it turned into a bloom machine. Now, this little tiny plant is full of dime-sized kumquats. I may have to thin them. Pretty wild to see!
Panache Tiger Fig tree for me. I agree, the proof is in the fruit-pudding!
WELL EXPLAINED….knowledgeable, demonstrated & proven …. THANK YOU! DALE IS AWESOME…SUPER CATCHING - happy dog for sure!
I have also found that a small dose of iron will help plants absorb and use the other nutrients like phosphorus. It behaves like a catalyst. This is probably why plants benefit from a combination of bone meal and blood meal. I believe plants are like humans; they benefit from numerous nutrients and minerals, not just the three commonly listed on fertilizer packages.
I personally believe the bone meal is the key, I used MG bloom booster and it promotes fruit but I really noticed a difference when I started using bone meal.
Bone meal is a risk factor for mad cow disease in humans.
@@declanfarber no its not
@@mgstrip holy shit dude he's right! It can be absorbed into plants and transmitted to humans or animals. After this bag I won't be buying anymore.
On second thoughts it shouldn't be in bonemeal unless they used the brain and spinal cord. And bonemeal should be just bones.
Interesting because I have heard botanists say bonemeal is worthless.
Plants will only uptake what they need. You can't force N-P-K on a plant if they are already getting what they need. So, If you did a soil analysis you could feed the deficiency. Love the analogy with Carbs, fat, proteins.
Couldnt agree more 😊
I think the studies show that in some plants the added phosphorus doesn't do much. Cannabis is the main focus of the research and cannabis in particular will only take so much depending on root size and the microbiome in the soil. Honestly, it is probably more the microbiome that assists in the nutrient uptake that makes a big difference.
I absolutely love it , can't wait to have my own garden again
Thank you! I appreciate it. Hopefully, you can build one soon!
It may depend upon the type of plant. I will look up the studies though
Thanks very much! Best bloom booster vlog on U-TUBE!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your video. I've learned a lot.
I typically use bone meal - a small handful each week per plant.
But for hanging basket/container flowers, sometimes I use Hawaiian Bug & Bloom (over 50 phosphorous!).
Hey? What brand of rain barrels are you using?
And how much are they?
I’m in zone 6 and have a meyer lemon tree in a container…. I fed it heavily this yr and it flowered and I have tons of lemons on it. My question is when does the fruit mature and given that I’m in zone 6 upstate New York will the cold weather affect it? Impressive on your lemons.
Lemons take awhile to go from hard-and-green to ripe. Meyer lemons "feel" different than regular lemons when they're mature, because they're crossed with an orange. The peel is very thin and a lot less pithy than a traditional lemon, so you can tell when they're ripe by the "feel." It should be firm, but with just the right about of "give." Basically, you're going to have to figure it out over time by getting that perfect feeling. I bought my mother a Meyer lemon in a nice container last year, and she started harvesting it this spring. The lemons took several months to ripen, but that was over the cool season here. It's indoors in her sunroom during the winter. They'll ripen more quickly outdoors in the summer, but it still takes awhile. I don't think these lemons on my tree will be ready until October-ish.
Meyer lemons can't tolerate temps lower than around 25F unprotected, and the fruit will be destroyed with a hard freeze (28F or colder). Young plants may be injured at warmer temps. You will need to bring it inside when the frosts begin to be safe. I cover mine in incandescent Christmas lights for warmth and throw an agricultural fabric plant jacket over it anytime I see it is going to be colder than 30F.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you for a thorough explanation, you’re a gem! I’ve had my meyer lemon now for about 7 years in a container, and to be honest with you I’ve never fertilized just water it… this year I did and wouldn’t you know it it full of fruit. 😊. If only I knew. I keep it inside my garage during the winter months. Maybe and hopefully my fruit will mature in the garage, I tend to bring it in by October . Oh , the same goes with my figs, had them a few yrs this yr I gave it fertilizer watching your channel, and I have figs….they’re small though, I hope they mature and ripen too. A million thanks to you!!
Thank you for your information and I will do to my lemon tree too
Thanks for watching!
The high urea foliar spray to encourage blooms a month to 6 weeks before bud break ...i got from "Millet" on the tropical fruit growers forum......he is the master Zen of citrus growing(he is in the usa) and is the guru i most respect in the art of growing citrus.....he was formerly on the" citrus growers forum" but it transitioned to the tropical fruit growers forum.........I learnt a lot from that man.
I would argue that a high urea spray wouldn't encourage blooms, but rather encourage leafy green growth and the greening of foliage. That's certainly not a bad thing to "green up" the plant if it's a little on the yellow side, but promoting too much leafy green growth may actually adversely affect blooming. You may be telling the plant to place more energy into leafy growth at the expense of fruiting since plants only have "so much energy" to go around. I tend to not give a lot of nitrogen unless the plant is starting to lose its nice green color.
@@TheMillennialGardener Logic would make you think that but thats a tip from Millet on the "Tropical fruit growers forum"...in fact its quite well known for doing that....check it out...plus i have done it every year as well and i wouldnt tell lies.........one other thing to consider......what do all these fruits themselves have in common = strawberries....blueberries....tomatos....cucumber(yes its a fruit)...avocado...citrus...bananas ....kiwifruit?...they are all high in potassium......so it stand to reason they would have a high need for that nutrient to reach full ripeness.....none of these fruits contain a high amount of Phosphorous......imho you are getting your results from the urea ......i know citrus roots absorb npk 5.1.3 but i dont know about the stomata in the leaves....Foliar feeding has its place...particularly to supply trace elements ..esp in winter when roots are not very active.....but you have nothing to lose by trying what i suggest a month to 6 weeks out from spring or going on that forum and asking millet because he has far more experience and expertise than either of us ! p.s Nitrogen is the most important nutrient along with MG and iron for citrus.......if it doesnt get enough you will get stunted growth and fruits wont reach their max potential......its esp important its available at the roots ready for spring burst...which is what i am having now and some of my trees are going nuts...a few others are just waking up with buds....UREA is the bees knees for citrus but unfortunately......that is what the citrus leafminer look for when they appear when the weather warms up......thats candy to them....that what they seek and thats why its bad to feed them much of that in autumn burst.(thats in aussie anyway).....i can vouch for the foliar feed with high urea....ive done it and it works a treat and no doubt its good for young leaves as well....all the best....go and say hi to millet......that guys a wealth of knowledge all things citrus..........just tell him "Laidbackdood" sent you.
Thats a lot of fertilizer ya got there. Whats interesting to me is dilution and how it affects ratio's. The amount of ferts put on an area is dependent on the manufacturers recommendations for the amount that goes in a 2 gallon bucket. I'm not aware if there's a standard or if all manufacturers use different amounts. Miraclegro is generally 1tbsp/gallon. What does Jack's recommend?
The Jack's bag is very difficult to read. It has a huge load of instructions, including how to apply for fertilizing through drip lines. I'm currently using it similarly to the MiracleGro product.
Thanks you for share this videoi like fruits
Hope I will Try
Thanks for watching!
It does work! and thanks for the video! I purchased a Meiwa Kumquat tree and it wasn't doing anything with a regular fertilizer from April to beginning of July, I started feeding it with MG Bloom booster after that I got flowers and fruits forming now , it's a young tree and I'm sure it will drop some , I will put it in my heated greenhouse if it gets too cold in the next few months here in 6B, next year I will use the MG Bloom booster from the beginning of spring.
That's funny. I purchased a very small grafted Meiwa back in March. I hit it with Bloom Booster, and it flowered profusely within 2 weeks. Now, it's loaded with quarter-sized fruits. It's such a small tree, so it's pretty wild to see so much fruit on it.
I use bloom boosters , I am a believer.
It works great! Thanks for watching!
Phenomenal video❗
Thank you! I appreciate you watching.
Hi ! Love your videos ! I used the bloom booster for my cucumbers last year ! And I will tell you, I had baby cucumbers everywhere! It works ! I will use the bloom boosters for all of my fruit and vege,s that flower and fruit !
IT WORKS ! ❤️🩹💕💞
You should do this with the miracle gro vegative food for this
Do some clones of that tree for your experiment. Grow one 1/1/1/. the second 1/1/1 for half and end with 1/3/2. The third with only 1/3/2.
Fruit trees, in my opinion, don't make good plants for controlled experience. I've seen too much variation from plant to plant, even if it's a clone. The life cycle of trees often exceeds that of a human, so there are too many variables. I think seed-grown annuals the fruit - like a tomato, pepper, etc. - are better candidates for controlled experiments, because their shorter life cycles allow for more consistent growth and less variance from plant to plant.
So. I have a bag of granular triple phosphate….in your opinion, do you think the water soluble works better, since it is absorbed immediately? Ty
Water soluble fertilizers and slow release granules have entirely different purposes. The water soluble fertilizers are immediately bioavailable, so they "kick in" immediately. If you're trying to force blooms based on timing of the the season, you'll need to use the water soluble types. The slow release and organic fertilizers are more like soil amendments and are added periodically. I do not use slow release or organic bloom boosters, because I believe them to be pointless. I just use 5-5-5 organics to build my soil. It's the rapid soluble stuff that's key. I've never used the isolated phosphorous, though.
Great info thank you
Thanks for watching!
Where did you get the small mesh greenhouse/plant protection shelter behind you in the video? Do you have a link? Thanks
3 min mark. Thanks
I have the item linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description, and I have a video all about it here: th-cam.com/video/AHYkfvOytmE/w-d-xo.html
Can I use that on crown thorn plant?
Nah, stick to 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer IF your crown thorn is in a pot/container.
If in soil, good ol’ compost will do.
An experiment without a control group is not an experiment at all. I love your channel and use your fertilizer program for my figs, it works great. However what you presented in this video is still purely anecdotal. Maybe 3 groups using fig cuttings, say RdB. Have to use more than one cutting in each group to account for variability of individual cuttings.
Group 1 has three cutting that get compost and organic fertilizer only. Group 2 has three cuttings that get balanced NPK. Group 3 has three cuttings that get bloom booster.
Compare growth in height and number of figs harvested. Might even be a two year experiment since fruit production in first year is more variable than subsequent years.
I would agree with you in most instances, except the following:
1. It's not possible to have a true controlled experiment in a backyard garden, because there are so many variables that cannot be properly controlled. No matter what I do in this environment, it can be picked apart by naysayers.
2. When a 1 year old tree that has never blossomed immediately bursts out into blooms 8 days after being fed a large dose of high-P fertilizer, it becomes obvious enough that a control group isn't needed. If you punch someone in the arm and the person screams, "OUCH!", you don't need a second person nearby not getting punched to be certain that it hurt.
I don't think figs are realistic controls, because individual cuttings can vary so much in performance. Seedlings, I think, would be better candidates, but running an experiment like that would take, literally, a year. It's too late in the season to design an experiment like that, unfortunately, so we work with what we have available. I may be able to trial on my container citrus next season, or some type of seedling, but it needs to happen in the spring at this point.
@@TheMillennialGardener I agree with you that there are many variables, including the skill of the gardener. I don’t think it’s surprising that you have blossoms on a 1 year old tree. You’ve got one heck of a green thumb. You prepare the soil. Those blossoms could have been there whether you fertilized or not.
To design an experiment you control as many variables as you can, and use a large enough sample size to blunt the impact of individual differences. It would be a large undertaking and require 1-2 years to get results. But unfortunately that is what is required. I’m surprised larger fertilizer companies haven’t done large scale studies like these, they have the money and potentially gain from positive results.
Lol.im.in 8b and my tree I'd in a small pot and it has more fruit then.that. it's like 1 branch in size I.kept.pickimg many off so it would grow
Potted trees fruit early because they become root-bound, which leads to premature fruiting. In-ground trees take much longer. I explained that in this video, and showed you my other potted citrus that fruited much earlier because of this.
thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Wonder if this method could be used on Bananas so they can fruit in less time.
Bananas actually like high nitrogen and potassium. In my experience, potassium is the thing that helps them fruit more quickly. It may be because they grow from a corm, since it has some unique properties.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok. I originally used a syntetic 17-17-17. However i switched to bone and blood. Once it has some size switch to a high pottasium only source?
Fuck I love this channel.
Thanks for watching!
Is bone meal considered a plant bloom booster?
No. Bone meal is an organic material, and takes weeks and months to break down. It doesn’t provide readily available nutrients to plants. The native soil microbiome must slowly break it down overtime. The water soluble fertilizers are immediately bioavailable to plants, because they have been processed into readily available forms. This gives your plants an immediate boost. Bone meal is a great addition to work into your soil in many cases, especially if you live in sandy soil like I do, but it is different than water soluble fertilizers.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you so much for your answer. I just went and bought some Bloom booster miracle Gro. I have about 60 different varieties of chili pepper plants and they’re growing tall and green, but there’s no flowering, and I planted them in May. I live in Houston and as you know it’s hot here, but I still feel that they should of flowered by now. Hopefully the bloom booster will help them. I’m growing them in 3 gallon containers outside. Any suggestions that I may need or will it just take time for them to flower. Thanks
In 2022 I just can't find 20-20-20 locally while in the 1980s and 1990s it was in abundance. Not sure why, and I despise having to go to Amazon for much of anything these days. Don't feed the beast.
I have to order mine online. I have 20-20-20 linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description. You can also order it from websites like Greenhouse Megastore and DoMyOwn. I've ordered from all three sites with good results.
@@TheMillennialGardener I wonder why these things are no longer available locally? Amazon is going to destroy everything which is why I try to not feed that beast, but sometimes I still have to.
High nitrogen fertilizer is good for grass, lettuce, spinach. Not flowers, tomatoes, peppers.
1:40 20% + 20% + 20% = 100%
The other 40% are "other" ingredients. They need to use bulking agents to make the dissolvable crystals.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yeah, I was just laughing at the amount of filler in a $100 sack of fertilizer. I also bought both of those bags after seeing your other video on them. They seem to have solved my problems.
WRONG ITS NPK = NITROGEN, POTASIUM, POTASH
Periodic table says you, in fact, are wrong. Your poor ego
Thanks for the interesting video; I did a fertilizer experiment of my own several decades ago when I was managing a cattle ranch in northern Alberta. Despite fertilizing quite heavily with nitrogen and phosphorous my hay crop continued to do very poorly averaging only 30 square bales to the acre. However I noticed that whenever I crossed an old windrow where all the trees had been burned the grass was lush and dark green; I realized this must be because of the additional potassium from the ashes, so purchased a large amount of potash fertilizer, which is nearly pure potassium and spread it on all my hayfields at the lowest setting on the spreader, about 75 pounds per acre. My hay crop that year averaged 90 square bales to the acre and in some fields the hay was over 5 feet tall! I noticed also that the seed heads on the timothy grass were 4 to 6 inches in length rather than the 2 inches I had previously seen. That showed me what a difference potassium could make in the growth of plants, in this case grass for hay.
Very interesting. My experience with potassium is this: potassium is the nutrient driving the overall metabolic health of the plant. I don't think potassium on its own is very effective, but potassium needs to be scaled with the growth rate of the plant. So, if you want the tree to put on a huge amount of new growth, you can't just give it nitrogen. You need to give it nitrogen and potassium. The nitrogen directs the plant to grow more, and the potassium provides the precursor nutrition for cellular division. The N:P ratio tells the plant how to grow, but you need to add K with it in adequate quantities to support the growth.
That's my observation. You can dump all the nitrogen on the grass you want, but it won't grow big and green if there isn't enough potassium in the soil to support the growth. That's why old, sluggish forests explode into youthful growth after a fire.
Good job! I'm constantly doing this with my roses and other flowers. Let them hate 🤣
It works well. It's frustrating, because so many people think Miracle Gro is owned by Monsanto. That's not even true. It's a Scott's product, and Monsanto no longer exists. Monsanto is now Bayer, and do you have any idea how many pharmaceuticals are in everyone's medicine cabinet made by Bayer? It's funny where the hyperfocus lies.
I use the miracle Gro bloom booster for my cannabis plants when they start the flower I think it works great.
I use high phosphorus fertilizers on my cacti as well and it makes them flower profusely. ☺️ Thanks for the validation.
I'm not surprised at all by this. Thanks for watching!
Bloom booster skeptics must’ve not watched your earlier videos on how to fertilize. The Fertilizing Figs in Spring video was a gardener’s awakening and game-changer for me! As always, top notch gardening information, thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you! A lot of people don't like buying fertilizer, so there's a lot of resistance out there. I get it. It's expensive, and fertilizer companies are often responsible for a fair amount of pollution and bad news headlines, but the stuff really does work. The key is *responsible usage,* because it's harmless in a backyard setting when used as directed.
Awesome vid and I love how you list topic and time in the description box. You're presentation is perfect!!!
Thank you. You can't imagine how long it takes to tag every single video with timestamps and chapters 😓 But I do it because I think it helps. Glad to hear it's worth it!
* your
That Meyer lemon should not even grow in your area and the fact it’s doing so well and fruiting is pretty amazing. We use 0-50-30 water soluble as a bloom set fertilizer on a number of plants. It works especially well on melons at least doubling fruit set. I’m an advocate for using the high phosphorus type fertilizers.
You're correct - the Meyer lemon will die here without intervention. We have had back-to-back 9a winters here, but we're a Zone 8a, so the *big chill* is coming. It's only a matter of time until this tree sees 13F. The house provides a nice micro-climate alongside a plant jacket and lights, though, so I'm able to give it an extra 5-10F, but I'll have to be on my game. Glad to hear you've had similar results with the high-P. I honestly don't know how people can badmouth it, because the results are so consistent and obvious when used properly.
Hi from Australia. Great work. To have definitive proof, it would be good to have a couple of control plants where you don't give these fertilizers so you can actually see a difference. That would be the ideal scientific method as you cannot fully confirm or exclude the effect without a control. Having said that though, I don't have much doubt that added phosphorous works to increase flower production.
It's too late in the season to begin an experiment like that, because it would have to be conducted over 3+ months. I've used this analogy in the past: you don't need to run a controlled experiment to know that punches hurt. If you punch someone in the arm and they cry out in pain, you don't need a separate control group to be certain it hurt. When a baby plant that has never flowered before suddenly flowers 8 days after a Bloom Booster application, that's either the world's biggest coincidence, or it's strong evidence. I may be able to run an experiment with tomatoes, but it will need to be done beginning in March here due to temperatures.
@@TheMillennialGardener it could have been a coincidence, that's why double blind tests are true science. You maybe correct in you assertions about fertilizer but this was not a scientific test by any means.
If you do this experiment again, start out with two similar plants. Fertilize one with a high phosphorous fertilizer and fertilize the other one with a low phosphorous but equal N and K fertilizer. Then you will be able to tell is the extra phosphorous makes a difference.
With your lemon tree experiment, we don't know if the extra phosphorous made a difference or not as we were unable to know how the tree would have performed without the extra P. Maybe it would have done just as well. We can't know.
Have a control tree (no extra P) and a test tree (added P). If the only difference in the treatment of the two trees is that the one got extra P and the other didn't, then you will know what the effect of the added P really was.
I can try this with annuals next year during the spring when the growing season allows, but this was a pretty immediate reaction. A controlled experiment is almost impossible to do with a tree, because they tend to grow at their own pace. It's better done with seed-grown annuals because of their short lifecycle.
To chime in 8 months later. For posterity you could also have a third plant that doesn't get any extra nutrients. Just normal ol water. Larger sample sizes provide more certain and reproduceable results.
You surely can't know if it worked by just one plant, and even when I have three identical plants, same size, seedling batch etc. put into 3 exact pots with same soil, sun and water, I often get three different plants. Sometimes one just hits a sweet spot in the soil and goes haywire while the others may be feeling things out. These tests are only valid if they are done many times over and over again.
Just curious has anyone done side by sides yet on a video? Thanks!
Lemon trees do good with high nitrogen until it’s time to flower
Interesting but I would think a few experiments with some plants fertilized and some not would give you a better idea of whether or not there is a benefit.
There are always a lot of variables in backyard gardening, so it's hard to set proper controls. That being said, sometimes things are so obvious that you don't need controls. When a young plant that has never flowered before suddenly flowers all over its lower growth 8 days after being fed Bloom Booster, that's as obvious a reaction as I can provide. If that's a coincidence, then I have a bridge to sell 😂
This is designed to keep flowering plants green and promote flowering.
But don't use this for flowering marijuana. To much nitrogen to finish canabis. You just want high P and K and no N to comple the marijuana cycle.
I use bloom buster fertilizer with excellent results!it's on flowers, vegetables and fruits, have for many years!
I've had a ton of success using it. Glad to hear you're seeing success as well!
Please do a test bed with root veggies half & half!
It's too hot at this time of year for root vegetables where I live, but I may be able to do that with beets and carrots over the winter. I don't usually fertilize beets and carrots aside from the normal refreshing of beds with compost, but I can try.
Super informative - as always. I am amazed that I always learn facts that are totally new to me and I have been a so-so gardener for years now. THANK YOU.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching the videos. I appreciate it.
I saw amazing results after I fertilized my containers of annuals. I'm a believer.
That’s great to hear! The stuff works very well.
Apparently my flowering plants are not aware of this “ new study “
I have been using 15-30-15 fertilizer on my flowering plants with outstanding results consistently getting compliments from passersby.
That’s my old school study .
I have a small raised bed garden and grew half a dozen chili peppers this summer with no amendments and had quite good results. I saw this video and decided to add the bloom buster when the first crop was done. I did it just like you said (adding the fish fertilizer), once a week, and had tons of blooms after about two weeks!!! But the new peppers are about half as long and very skinny and the first dozen or so almost immediately turned red and shriveled up. The ones that are making it are only about 1/4" wide. What did I do wrong or what do I do now? Thanks!! (love this channel)
Don't they still teach
"Up-down-all around"?
N=up --------------10
P=down----------10
K=all around---10
You are my favorite gardening channel on TH-cam without a doubt.
Thank you! I really appreciate you saying that. It means a lot.
Cuz lucky you bought an grafted fruit tree,, plus you saying things all wrong, if you neva buy one grafted lemon tree and planted a seeded one you started dreaming on you would not be able to bear fruit for at least 10 years so no matter how much phosphorous you give a young lemon tree you ain't going force it to bloom from a planted regular fruit tree, ps not even five year old tree, that's why I always buy airlayer or grafted trees in 2 to 3 years fruit starts to happen, yer explanations not so good especially wen I know, I've been using miracle grow for ever, let see 1974 im 71 born 1951, I grew the best smelling,tasting, stoney weed, I also made black oils from scraps toss aside leaves, stems, shakes, add alcohol to a mayonnaise glass jar add all yer goodies inside soak for 30 days the longer the better put in dark area shake jar every 5 days wen done get one glass container and cheese cloth pour mixture thru yer cloth into the glass jar throw away all the rubbish put yer glass container with the mixture on top of garage where there's plenty of sun to evaperater the alcohol wen almost gone you should see the black tar oils on the bottom, toss out the remaining slush on the bottom dumped it get one butter knife to scrap out the oils, get some small viles to put the oils inside I used a lit candle to heat up the butter knife to slide the oil off the tip now no matter what brand u ou buy those number will never change, and the 3 letters N P K remember first number is always nitrogen like N-30, P - 10 , K- 10 this is for nitrogen, now phosphorous second number 10 30 10 is always highest like N - 10, then phosphorous 30, then K - 10 like I said I use this for years and it work good enough for my plants
Most trees do better the second , the third, the fourth year, etc. etc. Can you credit the fruit growth on age, or fertilizer ? Did you test the soil, to see what it actually needed , first ? You can't base results, with out at least one control plant.
I really like Jack’s fertilizers, but because of my location they are very expensive. Would you say the Miracle Grow is just as effective as Jack’s?
I use both, and I find them both to be fine. I also use the Walmart Expert Gardener 24-8-16, because it's half the price of the MiracleGro. I recommend buying the stuff you can get at the best price. I have them linked in my Amazon Storefront if you need a source. You can buy the Jack's in bulk. I bought 2 bags last year, and I still have 80% of it!
I'm using this fir a vege pod so I can't use the whole thing can I reserve the rest for later use?
Are phrophros fro roots or flowering
Both.
your leaves near the bottom look like they have spider mite damage !
I also agree with adding phosphorus my wife has hanging baskets they require watering twice a day every other day we put miracle grow phosphorus blooming in the same ratio you were using for those hanging flowers. we had several that we did not do that with and they don’t hold blooms as long as a matter of fact they end up just being a lot of greenery .when we went back to putting a miracle Gro on ,they came back not as strong but they did come back so whether it’s flowers or fruit phosphorus matters. Thanks for your videos and advice always great stuff.
I agree that in every side-by-side comparison that I've run, the higher phosphorous water-soluble fertilizers really do cause increased blooming, whereas the higher nitrogen fertilizers have the opposite effect. I'll try to run a more conclusive study next spring. Thanks for watching!
This guy is probably the most buff gardener in TH-cam my man lifts
Another neat experiment would be to do high nitrogen with younger plants and then switch to a "bloom booster" midway through. And maybe compare that to a strictly only nitrogen and only bloom booster plants
I do this a lot for my plants. High nitrogen to grow a lot of leaves and then when you switch to bloom booster all of energy being produced by the photosynthesis goes into flower and fruit production instead of more leaves. I usually flip fertilizer at about the time I see the first natural bloom appear then I try to push them into a turbo-blooming phase.
Could you provide the titles of the research articles? I have read articles that made claims that fertilizers like Super Phosphate / Triple Super Phosphate and other fertilizers that contain rock phosphate are only able to deliver about 10% or so of their phosphorus contain each year. This is because the rock phosphate is not very soluble and takes a long time to break down and as a result it does not need to be used very often.
Certainly. Here is something to read: www.gardenmyths.com/bloom-booster-fertilizer-nonsense/
This article is absolute junk, because it is centered around a bogus premise: _Adding phosphorus to soil that already has enough phosphorus, or adding it to one that is deficient in one of the other nutrients, will NOT make plants grow better. You are just wasting a natural resource or worse, making your soil toxic._
Of course adding more phosphorous to a soil that has *too much* phosphorous in it already is bad.
1. How many people have plots of land with too much phosphorous in the soil? Hardly anyone.
2. Most forms of phosphorous found in soil aren't actually bioavailable to the plant, because it's tied up in molecular forms of phosphorous that the plant cannot assimilate. I can't get healthy levels of iron in my diet by eating chunks of rebar, because my body can't process sheets of metal! I need natural forms found in food that my body can use!
Most phosphorous found in soil cannot be used, and for people that are growing in containers, they need to constantly replenish the nutrients in the container. This is why you can't trust agenda-driven articles like this, and you need to run your own experiments and see with your own eyes.
You kind of lost me at the beginning. I'm not really sure what argument you're making or what study you're referring to that says these nutrients aren't useful to add.
I'm addressing the constant argument that water soluble fertilizers are somehow dangerous or toxic to soil or don't work. It's nonsense and isn't true.
Hi! I was wondering why you used Bloom Booster on your Meyer lemon tree to demonstrate the effectiveness of a high Phosphorus fertilizer rather than running the experiment on your pepper plants, as an example? I remember from an older video you posted about citrus trees that they need a higher Nitrogen intake. I know it wasn't the point if this video, but if you had used a higher Nitrogen fertilizer, would there have been more fruit set even though your tree is young? I've been using a lot of the fertilizing information from your videos to help fix my garden and they've been extremely helpful!
My pepper plants, at this point, were many months old and already in varying stages of fruiting, which makes it more difficult to assess what's going on. My Meyer lemon had not yet fruited to date, so I wanted to see if I could force it to flower. The reason why I chose this tree is both because it's never fruited before, and because the Meyer lemon is a rare type of "everbearing" citrus that doesn't have a defined flowering season, ripening season and harvesting season (like most fruit trees do) and is capable of flowering and fruiting all throughout the year at key intervals. To answer your question about the NPK, a lot of things that I do on this channel is experimenting as I go along to find out what works best. I've only been growing citrus for a few years, so I'm still trying to figure out what works best for all these different trees. In my observation, citrus seems to be able to fruit very heavily being fed higher nitrogen at all times, but phosphorous is still a critical component in flowering/fruiting. I'm theorizing that citrus trees, for whatever reason, have a lower P-requirement, but it's still a critical macronutrient. What I wanted to see is if a sudden boost of high-P could get it to flower earlier than it wanted to be. Once the tree gets into its groove and begins to bear more heavily as it ages, it probably won't be necessary to give it Bloom Booster type fertilizers anymore, since in my experience, citrus don't need as much as something like a tomato or a fig. Don't take anything in this post as scientific fact. It's more the theories that I'm working under as I continue to evolve my fertilizing regimen.
I’ve been using bloom booster for the past few years and it’s true, works perfectly
It works when it's used at the appropriate time of the year and during the appropriate part of the fruiting cycle, assuming you don't have an overabundance of bioavailable phosphorous in your soil. This is true 100% of the time in containers since they're so limited, and in most soil natural soil types. It isn't something you should use all season for sure, but strategically timed, it helps me a lot.
@@TheMillennialGardener exactly , I use it at detain times of the year for my container figs and garden ! I follow your guidance on fertilizer schedule and it works great . Thanks again
Can you mix it with molasses
Damn bro that is some awesome growth in one year on your Meyers lemon!! However my mouth is watering whilst looking at that gorgeous Avo! OMG awesome video brother thanks again!!🙏🏻
Thanks. The Meyer is looking great. I'm very happy. My Lila avocado is *really* taking its time. It's on its 3rd season, and it dropped 100% of its fruit all three years. Hopefully next year is the year it'll fruit. I have to give that tree a big haircut. It's grown too much, and I need to reduce it literally 50%.
Thanks for the video. A couple of questions: How much and how often are you watering your lemon these days? And how is your avocado doing this year?
I never water my Meyer lemon tree in ground. Aside from the initial planting period, where I watered it for the first week or two, it has never once been watered except for these times where I've given it soluble fertilizer. There's no need to water any established tree in-ground where I live. As for the citrus in containers, they get watered every single day during the growing season. The reservoirs in the self-watering containers get filled daily, as well as the soil tops get soaked down. The avocado tree is almost as tall as my house, but it once again dropped its fruit, sadly. I will be heavily pruning it in late August to prepare for winter.
I've had three fruiting Meyer Lemon trees for over seven years and have been growing them in 30 gallon containers. The trick to container Lemon trees is to pay attention to the leaves. If they yellow... it may be too much water. BUT it may also be not enough water. My trees are VERY ROOT BOUND! If your tree blooms profusely (like mine have done) make sure they get full sun to help set the fruit. I have also found 90% of the pollinators appear to be bumble bees and a few honey bees also find the blooms. Again, too much water and some of the fruit will drop, and if they don;t get enough water, the fruit will drop. Early Spring pruning (like in mid March or early April) and then hitting them with the high phosphorus fertilizer seems to help them get the energy to set and keep fruit. I'm in central North Carolina so my trees go inside a make-shift greenhouse when the weatherman says "frost"... they stay there until mid March. Good luck.
This is the best gardening channel, period. Other gardening channels: yay fruits everywhere, fun fun fun, positivity positivity positivity, I never have any problems, I'll never teach you or discuss that I spray my peach trees against PC and OFM, I don't know what slugs are, I bury dead raccoons in my raised bed. It's basically a platform for them to show of, and they sweep the practical reality under the rug. COUGH james prigioni COUGH self sufficient me COUGH. We get nothing out of it. Your videos are actually helpful man. Your organza bag and japanese pull saw recommendation are the X factor. No lie, that saw is better than even $1000 pruning shears. Can't believe my japanese pruning shears cost more than the saw. I still use the pruners for the tiny branches. But other than that, they suck. And they are ARS pruners too.
I appreciate that. I love Mark and James's channels. I actually just finished watching one of James's videos 20 mins ago, but I do wish there was more tips and tricks and how-to's versus garden tours and harvest videos. My garden is less impressive than theirs, for sure, but my goal at the end of the day is to convince non-gardeners to try gardening, and small gardeners to grow more stuff, and I think it's easier to show them how to do it. My favorite garden channel is probably The Rusted Garden because all Gary does is teach, teach, teach. It's a lot less flashy and the editing is so basic, but it's so informative and helpful. If you aren't following Gary, you absolutely need to.
I told you that $20 saw is king. I wouldn't lie to you! I'm not going to get people into gardening by recommending $300 pruning products, but a $20 saw? That's cheaper than a pizza delivered to your house. I'm STILL using the original blade on my saw 2 years later. Granted, it's close to end of life, but that thing is a beast. It probably deserves its own video, because people are wasting money on expensive stuff that's inferior!
I’m new and didn’t see the saw video! What’s it called??
Everything you said was misleading and basically wrong bro
Can you give an example?
I wish i learned anything from this video...the plant might have done much BETTER with a balanced fertilizer, we'll never know. I like your content and am a subscriber, but there is a basic framework for the design of an experiment, you might serve viewers better by applying it. If you really care to do something meaningful, line up a few containers (I'd go for 20 gal bags so no real effect from the container), and plant the same peppers or tomatoes and fertilize each with a different ratio fertilizer at various stages of growth and see what happens. Of course even that means little as one ratio would be expected to be best at a given stage (for example high N early to promote leaf and stalk) but you should be able to show some difference between high N and high P when it came to flowering and fruit set time. Is this not well established horticultural science anyway? I'd expect my County Extension agent to be a wealth of proven science on the subject...
Now how do you feel about high potassium fertilizers like they make for tomatoes and vegetables?
My understanding of potassium is different. Nitrogen and phosphorous are "behavioral" macronutrients in the sense that by playing with the ratio of Nitrogen:Phosphorous, I can sort of direct how much leaf growth or how much flowering the plant produces. I don't think potassium has that effect. Rather, that's the nutrient that "funds" the biological processes, so potassium should be scaled to the growth rate of the plant. The faster the plant is growing, the faster the cells are dividing, the more potassium you need to support the life processes. I don't buy high potassium fertilizer blends. Instead, I have a small bag of 0-0-60 that I occasionally add. The only plant I've found that responds well to huge doses of potassium are bananas. I think there is danger in too much potassium, but I could be wrong.
This doesn’t really prove your point. You should have use three group of plants, one for 1-2-1 ratio, one for 1-1-1 ratio and one for control (no formula), or something similar. This prove that you have a healthy lemon tree and nothing more.
I feel like I just went to gardening class for the day. Thanks for sharing! Subscribed
Should of done a side by side experiment with the same plant types compared with a nitrogen based fertilizer. This doesn’t prove anything 🤷🏼♂️ You fertilized it so of course it grew more.
I have a hard time with fertilizers. I have tried organic fertilizers and it was a disaster. It's hard for me to tell what N P or K a plant need. I have tomato plants now in 5-gallon buckets that are 3 feet tall with no blooms. I planted them in Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil.
I planted, a mandarin tree February can I fertilize it with the bloom booster now?
I wouldn't recommend it. Trying to force a tree to flower a few months after it was planted isn't a good idea. You want the tree to grow roots the first 1-2 years. I would amend the soil with an organic, slow release fertilizer around a 5-5-5 NPK and also with some added bone meal to encourage slow root growth. I would not wait my fruit tree to set any fruit the first year, and maybe only 3-4 fruits at most the second year. The third season, you can allow it to fruit some.
3:48 how much 6-4-6 would you use? My avocado tree was planted at the same time and now the leaves are turning yellow. Still has a few avocados on it.
Kool was worried about bloom booster from all purpose fertilizer cause i thought bloom booster would be poision it you give it to fruit and vegetables plants
Man was this good! I hope I'm not gonna burn mine out because the Miracle Grow measurements are sooo screwy. Thanks again bruh..
Do you have any APPLE TREES you are keeping in large containers?? If so, please do video's on that. I have 2 apple trees in large (huge containers)...Year # 2...help please. I rent, and not allowed to plant in ground......Planning on a move to tiny house in Newport TN next year.
I am not growing any apples. The reason why is because my climate may be too hot for them. Apples like cooler climates, and that's just not where I live. Apple trees are rare here in the South. Much of Tennessee is Zone 7, so apples probably do well there, but here on the Zone 8 coast, it would be harder.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks, I was hoping you did. You're easy to learn from. Have a blessed day in Our Lord & Savior
You should actually do a soil test first. The goal is to add the nutrients your soil is missing. For example adding too much nitrogen to your soil will create an excessive carbon output from your plants. This is why there are different blends, because it’s intended to be based on the needs of your soil.
Bloom booster from miracle grow definitely works for my petunias, but not my potted dwarf sunflowers
Excellent simple, clear explanation. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
In my opinion you needed a control plant to compare results. What if the plant you used was getting ready to set flowers anyway with or without bloom booster?
Hi, new sub here and really like your channel!
I have not read all the comments nor the studies, but one thing I know is that if magnesium is not available, then the phosphorus won’t be absorbed. So did the studies just focus on phosphorus without the addition or magnesium?
I always throw some Epsom Salt down with Phosphorus.
Being up against that brick wall really helps with the tree being planted in 1 cold hardiness zone too cold.
7 Springs farm supply has a good assortment of specialty fertilizer etc at a good price.
I am new to gardening. My plants are in a raised bed on my screened in patio. I’ve been using blossom set spray. Is that basically the same stuff?
Wow awesome video and amazing results!!! I just watered my lemon, lime and orange container trees with the MG bloom booster food so let's see what happens. The trees are super healthy with alot of deep green foliage but not much fruit so I figured it would be safe to use this at this point based on your recommendations!
Excellent. You may want to follow up with a second application after 14 days if you do not see blooms right away. If the foliage is very deep green, you may want to back off on the nitrogen, though. Very dark green implies too much nitrogen, which can cause problems. It shouldn't be too dark. Your foliage shouldn't be any darker than the leaves on my Meyer lemon in this video.
@@TheMillennialGardener the leaves look just like your Meyer....been only using the Jack fertilizer but haven't gotten much fruit at all the past 2 years. Will try another dose of bloom booster in 2 weeks...thanks for your reply and keep up the good work!!
@@salvatorecaruso942 thanks for watching!
I agree with you!my petunias seem to love the blooms fertilizers. AND I so love Dale! What a beautiful friend!