Stable employment means more money for ink and reagents. I like this idea, and I think Gunthorp, my septuagenarian Abjuration wizard, might like it too.
Part of my brain just leapt to the Belgariad where Silk uses "travelling merchants" as the party's cover basically every time they're going anywhere...
I kinda love the idea of a charlatan paladin. "I used to scam people by pretending to be a valiant paladin, but one day the powers I pretended to have started to actually work and now Im afraid of what would happen if I didnt smite evil."
it would be funny if some god punished the charlatan by giving him the powers he was pretending to have and then somehow threaten or force him into actually playing the part
Love this idea. I'd have the charlatan show his "devotion" as a part of his con by eeciting the oaths, obviously never intending to actually abide by them. It's during one of these faux oaths that the deity goes "Oh yeah? Consider your oath binding, you silly muppet!" and bam, holy power.
@@dr.vikyll7466 Considering I only get to play in a new campaign every 2 years or so, with one or two one-shots a year, I would be happy if ANYONE played my character ideas.
Honorable mention to purchase efficiency: if you're Small, getting a mount is a great way to go from 25 ft speed to 40 ft. speed. Also, mounts can help with your encumberance. Especially mules, which count as Large despite being Medium. Mastiffs are 25 gp. Ponys are 30 gp. The latter carry a bit more, but since you're not having a controlled mount attack, that's the only major difference. Mules are 8 gp. They have the same speed as the other two, they explicitly are listed as "mounts" in the equipment section, and they carry roughly twice as much as a pony. With similar hp. And it is hard to knock prone. So if you want to ride a Medium mount around the dungeon, 8 gp gets you the most efficiency in that mount.
Don't forget, for the low, low price of 15 gp, you too can increase your mule's carrying capacity by 5-fold (from 420 lbs. to 2,100 lbs.) today! Or if that's too expensive for you, you can always buy a pack saddle with saddle bags for just 9 gp. EDIT: Forgot to mention what the 15 gp buys you: it's a cart.
@@williamcurtis2145 Ah. That's not a terrible idea, but it does clash with the goal of using the mule as a mount for mobility, particularly in dungeons.
My first character was a fighter who had a natural affinity to beasts of burden. He always had a donkey, who was rarely useful, follow him reluctantly into battle. The day Nkrumah rarely made it through battles, and each one was named donkey ho-tay.
DM: "A bright burning meteor streaks across the sky and head shots your character. The force of the strike, effectively explodes your upper body. The only thing that remains of your body above the waist, are your arms from the elbow down. The gods curse your soul to never be resurrected or reincarnated. Now get out of my house."
Makes kind of sense being in a guild and an artisan basically put you at the top of almost everyone because of how valuable you were guilds were extremely secretive of how their trades and supply was back then
This is also pretty accurate, and was a source of political (and sometimes outright violent) conflict in a lot of countries that saw a transition from feudalism to mercantilism.
most of a noble's assets wouldn't be in the amount of coin they carry on their person- it would be in the fact that they own land and that they have political power (partially from having that land).
I’ve literally just been sitting on the couch rolling random stats not connected to any character bc I’m bored and I’ve been just spitting character ideas at my friends. I need help.
It might be best to visualize each stat and think of how that could be interpreted as a part of a character's personality. Example: A barbarian with high strength and wisdom could be seen as a masculine voice of wisdom or A Rogue with high dexterity could be seen as someone who talks a lot or is a thrill seeker. I apologize if this does not help you out much but I bet your characters are amazing no matter what advice I give you.
The best starting equipment for any character, regardless of race, class, or background? War dogs. Seriously, war dogs. Decades ago, playing in a D&D 1E campaign, a buddy of mine named Rob (we'll call him Rob the Fighter) was rolling up a 1st level human fighter, and noticed that trained war dogs were only 25 gp each, each got their own attack with a respectable chance to hit, and a respectable amount of damage for each attack. Simple enough, he bought himself some basic armor, a weapon, and blew all the rest of his money on war dogs. VERY FIRST ADVENTURE, we were clearing out a mine that had been overtaken by goblins. However, our DM was no fool. Some goblin guards were posted up outside the entrance to the mine with simple spears and studded leather armor. In the ensuing challenge, a small force of goblins (all armed with spears and daggers, mind you, this is important later) come boiling up out of the mines to confront us. Outnumbered, Rob the Fighter hears the clarion call. He knows what he must do. He knows why dogs are Man's Best Friend. He knows he must Unleash the Dogs of War. Rob the Fighter forgot that when the monsters have the initiative, and they have spears in hand, they can "set their spears against a charge" (basically, holding the spear in two hands, placing the butt of the spear against the instep of the foot, and bracing for anything incoming). Rob the Fighter yells, "Sick 'em, boys!" The war dogs immediate charge straight forward (as trained war dogs typically do) to do a bite attack on the first thing they encounter. The first thing they encounter are braced goblin spears. Round 1: All of Rob the Fighter's war dogs are dead, skewered on the end of goblin spears. Most of Rob the Fighter's starting gold is gone, providing the most expensive feast of dog meat these goblins have ever had the luxury of dining on. Seriously though, we cleaned up the goblins and played the campaign. Don't let Rob the Fighter's ignorance dissuade you! War dogs are an excellent investment at 1st level! They can walk along with a human without slowing them down, they get an extra smell-based perception check that most player characters don't get, they make excellent extra guards for the camp at night while in dangerous country, they don't even cost much food if your campaign keeps track of rations and weight. Treat your war dogs kindly, and don't command them to charge against a wall of goblin spears!
Another thing to take away: Even the best equipment has mechanical hard counters. If you invest all your starting funds in a masterwork greatsword and full plate armor while having no essential tools like rope or rations, you might fail the first Athletics test and be unable to get into the dungeon or starve on your way there. Or you might run into a pre-4e version of the Rust Monster, who just eats all your armor in one turn.
@@RoninCatholic Another thing about that, is that the DM was playing perfectly fairly and in-character. The goblins were armed with basic spears, one of the most basic weapons ever invented. Goblins aren't the brightest bunch, but they're not stupid either. They do hunt for food, , they're perfectly aware of how to use a spear if a wild boar is charging at you, they even have a semi-militaristic/ tribal society that values "might makes right". The encounter was in broad daylight, the goblins could plainly see a party of armed adventurers challenging them, accompanied by a pack of trained attack dogs. It doesn't take a genius to see what's about to happen, and to use basic martial/ hunting knowledge that they would have access to, to behave as somewhat intelligent foes that want to defend their "home" and possibly kill some adventurers for the loot and food they would provide!
Statistically speaking, unless 1E made setting spears against a charge always hit or something (not going to look up the rules for such a minor comment reply), I find it hard to believe a sufficiently large enough pack of dogs all died on the first round unless the DM was fudging the dice. At least, not unless the number of goblins were great enough for a TPK when you proceeded to continue that encounter.
@@matthill5426 Yes, and that's something that makes this story fundamentally different from so many "killed DM" stories - when a player makes a really bad decision like that, he ought to lose instead of being handed a victory just for being a player character. Meanwhile if he'd used his dogs tactically and won as a result, it'd have been an earned victory.
@@Shalakor As I recall, the way "setting spears against charge" worked was, you had to have initiative to basically hold your action. You had to declare that you were using your action to set your spear against an incoming charge attack. If an enemy made a charge move against you, you got to use your action to attack first as they came within range, and if you hit, you got double damage dice. Also, he only had three or four war dogs. They were 25 gp each, he had less than 200 gp to buy weapon, armor, and dogs with. It's easy to pile three or four guys (or goblins!) shoulder-to-shoulder bracing spears against charge in one of the most basic defensive military maneuvers ever worked out. People did this all the time hunting wild boar. There's no reason goblins wouldn't know to do this when faced with angry dogs! I have no reason to think the GM was cheating or fudging dice. You send three or four trained attack dogs against a dozen or two goblins armed with spears and basic tribal hunting knowledge, and that's what happened! Don't do that!
I thought based on the title that this was going to be a video about the best equipment you can choose to buy instead of the standard starting equipment. There's a lot of good mundane equipment, especially cheap light stuff, that can come in very handy.
An oil flask is the best piece of Starting gear in the game. It can be used for bullseye lanterns, which make Fighting enemies in the dark very easy, and oil flasks can also be used as cheap incendiary weapons. A block and tackle is a must-have if you're playing as a Strength-based character. Especially if your character's race has the "powerful build" trait 10 foot poles are amazing if you're a Thri-kreen, since you can probe the floor for traps while still being able to fight. Steel mirrors are great for sneaky characters since you can look around corners with them. A little bag of sand is great if you're a rogue since you can throw it in people's eyes Wooden stakes make very good catapult ammo for artificers going up against vampires.
It’s funny that you say you’re about quantity over quality, because what I like about this channel is the effort you put into making your videos short and engaging rather than releasing an unedited video of you talking into a camera for 40 minutes once a week like most DnDtubers
So is your next character going to be a sentient bag of ball bearings with oil flasks attached to it, while having the magic initiate feat? Because that would be interesting.
@@connorp3030 ball bearings to trip any enemy approaching you, Oil +Prestidigitation to light enemies on fire, Mage hand for Oil delivery. I would take a sling and knife to help speed up combat, and a Knife can be used for more than just fighting.
You forgot ten foot poles with a hook at one end (the poor man's rogue) and flour (the poor man's see invisibility). As well as twine, string, possibly rope, and at least one of anything that has negligible weight, including chalk and fishhooks. Your actual character abilities are somewhat less important when you can MacGyver your way through problems.
SOLDIER Feature: Military Rank “You have a military rank from your career as a soldier. Soldiers loyal to your former military organization still recognize your authority and influence, and they defer to you if they are of a lower rank. You can invoke your rank to exert influence over other soldiers and requisition simple equipment or horses for temporary use. You can also usually gain access to friendly military encampments and fortresses where your rank is recognized.” Soldiers don’t need to start with much, they can requisition equipment temporarily. Comes with the caveat that it needs to be turned in periodically, perhaps for inspection or maintenance.
@@GuyHeadset L - forward 10 seconds K - pause/unpause J - rewind 10 seconds F - Fullscreen on/off M - Mute/Unmute C - Subtitles , - one frame back . one frame forward I - miniplayer awesome - partymode on/off
“A spyglass is hard to make a sword isn’t” I think you’re underselling the effort put into blacksmithing, but fair. Glass is definitely difficult to shape for the use of magnification.
3:04 ERFLW pg 54: "If you forgo this starting equipment, as well as the items offered by your background, you start with 5d4 x 10 gp to buy your equipment." So DnDBeyond didn't just pull that number from nowhere. It is in the book. I might also add that in order to roll for starting gold, you also give up your background equipment, which doesn't affect your verdict (which obviously agree with) but does knock back a few of those edge cases that might be better off rolling for gold. With background included, rolling should only be done if your build doesn't want any of the class's starting stuff anyway.
PHB page 143 has a chart of starting money (if you forego items and money from your class and background) that has a different amount based on class (from 5d4gp for the monk to 5 classes which get 5d4x10gp)
This matters in Adventure's League where you take 2 Handcrossbows as a Fighter, sell them both for half price and buy the gear you want. Also starting gold is not an option. I would love to see getting the max starting gold for each equipment option per class and background including selling. Noble gives more pure gold pieces meaning you don't have to sell items for half price.
Well, this is something i have had to discuss with new players on multiple occasions. It always comes down to same basic answer, "go with your class equipment". That's how you get the most bang for your buck. However, there are things i always tell new players to pick up regardless of their class. I always tell people to pick up a sling, they're weightless, they're the cheapest weapon in the game, ammo is plentiful, and ammo is free. Even if you're a super melee build that can deal out 100+ damage per turn you need to have a ranged weapon...dragons can fly...so can a bunch of other stuff. I recommend that bag of 1000 ball bearings, not for sling ammo but for the versatility of it. It can be ammo, it can be dumped on the ground while you're running away from someone to slow them down, it can be used to set up a trap, and it's also cheap. I also recommend oil. Oil is probably one the greatest items in the game. 10 flasks for a gp. That's 5 buildings burned down, 2 traps set, 2 enemies burned to death, and a drunken midnight wrestling match with a lusty barmaid. Go wild with it. There's a bunch of other stuff i recommend to new players too but this comment is already way too long.
Ok, just so you know Jacob, those coins you showed at 0:19 are Swiss 5 Rappen pieces and though they look fancy and expensive they are the smallest amount you can pay "cash" with here. They are the least valuable coin here in Switzerland :P
I've only recently started playing D&D while not super recent but almost every single time I make a new character I give them just the bags and bags of ball bearings every time
Jacob: Being fighter and being able to choose two martial weapons at level one- (only has about 203 gold.) Me: *pinches nose* you realize you could’ve chosen lances instead of whatever th you did and gotten 200 extra gold right? Maximize ye potential man
@@Angworu Actually, since it's martial weapon and not martial melee weapon the most expensive choise is a hand crossbow at like 75gp. At least in the PHB.
i honestly love your videos. if it wasn't for episodes like this and the "how to play" series I would have honestly gotten super overwhelmed by d&d and dropped it after a few months. thanks xp! :A)
2:03 "a spyglass is hard to make, a sword isn't" I literally don't know where to begin to explain how wrong that is. Making a sword that's actually functional is hella hard. But you're right that there's a huge discrepancy in matters of supply and demand. Lots of people want swords, but a spyglass is much more niche.
"A spyglass is hard to make. A sword isn't." My man I have got more than 2700 years of evidence to the contrary. Making a quality sword is NOT an easy endeavor. Good video though : )
Slightly easier Consider the fact that glass is already hard to make and an extremely niche profession. Especially if the glass need to be able to zoom into stuff. There's a reason why blacksmiths can mass produce weapons, but no glass maker can easily mass produce spy glasses.
I'm still confused why spears have worse stats than swords even though soldiers use their spear first and then pull their sword after they lose it. They should be just as good at least.
I started with a ladder. One of the videos I watched around here recommended it and i couldn't help but think of Jackie Chan and how he fights with one.
Personally from my experience. Get a explorers pack because it covers most camping necessities buy a grappling hook and a bar of soap. Get a healers kit to help out during emergencies, and then get your weapons, focus, and armor. After that just buy whatever you want with the money you have left over ask the GM what the setting will be like to narrow your focus. I do always caution having a couple gold coins still so you have spending money in game.
The way I have always played the game was that you got the starting gold along with your equipment. I never knew that you were supposed to take one or the other until watching this video!
One of my favorite early pieces of gear is the Slippers of Spider Climbing. Especially on assassin style characters, gaining that third dimension, which 99.9% of standard guards won't expect, is so useful for infiltration
The best starting equipment is whatever you start with, and then spend an hour and a half writing flavor text for and renaming in DnD beyond. Mordred the Paladin’s halberd is no longer just a d10 with the reach property, now it’s a personalized weapon, a deadly instrument of rough, black iron gifted to him by his foster mother upon the completion of his knightly training. I do that for all my characters. It’s like writing Dark Souls item descriptions.
If you have Rope, a big Sack or Barrel, a Crowbar, and a Club, you're already well on your well to infinite gold. And Prison. Alternatively, you can get a Ladder (maybe two, if you want to make it stable,) Rope, a Bucket, a bunch of Caltrops, and an extremely frustrated DM who is going to wonder how the hell he's supposed to roll damage for the abomination of a weapon you just created, Jackie Chan.
I had a DM once who allowed (and encouraged) us to take the value of items we didn't want as gold in our pockets. For example, after I submitted my sheet, he suggested I take a more expensive item as my starting item and say I'm selling it to get the cheaper one I actually want.
I started playing AD&D in 1980 . I have yet to play 5th Edition. . Per the starting money rules on page 35 of the Player's Handbook , the Cleric started off with 30 - 80 gp , the Fighter started off with 50 -200 gp , the Magic-User started off with 20-80 gp , the Thief started off 20-120 gp , and the Monk started off with 5-20 gp . We usually considered a starting PC owning nothing but rags for clothing before spending their starting money . Most starting PCs bought the best armor and main weapon they could afford . The default armor for 1st level Fighters was always Chainmail . Then they bought clothing items such as a cloak or a robe , a belt , some footwear , a cap or a hat . Then they bougt some some way to carry their gear such as a backpack or several beltpouches. Then they bought basic living items , like a bedroll , a tinderbox with flint and steel , a waterskin , some rations , a cloak or robe , a sharpening kit for their weapons and tools , and a mess kit for eating . A knife for basic cutting and camp chores was a must for all characters. A Thief needed a 30 gp set of Thieves' Tools set to attempt a Pick Locks or Remove Traps skill check . A Cleric had to pay for a Holy Symbol from their church to cast spells and effect the Undead . The basic Holy Symbol was wooden , the next Holy Symbol was Iron ,and the third Holy Symbol was silver . A Cleric was expected to buy the best Holy Symbol he or she could afford , else they be penalized in their spell casting . The rare Monk PCs in my campaigns usually started off at 1st level with little more than the basics to survive .
Hah! This one wasn't what I thought. My underdog picks are a pack of chalk, signal whistles for everyone, and some extra sacks/waterskins if we're going somewhere. Lots of low level problem solving uses for like 10 silver. Oh yeah, and pitons if I don't already have em (I'm not getting stuck in a hole thanks)
I've just decided that my warlock is going to see the mayor first thing in the morning. He's applying for a business license, and renting a vacant shop in town. I'm taking an artisan feat, hiring a dwarf miner, and opening.... Sindri's Spyglass Super Store.
What I usually do is take the starting equipment options, however most of the time that would give me a lot of random simple weapons I don't need. In that case I choose the shortbow for each of them and "sell" them back to the VOID for half of their cost which nets me 12 gp and 5 sp per bow and I can use that money to pick up things like tool kits I have proficiency in but aren't given by a background, manacles, a healers kit, and whatever other misc items I may want. That way I can take for free pricey weapons and armor I'll need, but still have a bit of spare change afterwards to purchase gear with or start the game with.
As a DM I let me players have both the starting equipment and also the gold they roll, so session zero also becomes "before we start I'm buying ball bearings, ropes, a trap, this item I'll find a use for later" and the majority are never mentioned again
Fighter can start with chain mail, two hand crossbows, a light crossbow and sell them back at half price. You can basically get like 150 gold guaranteed to spend however you want.
"more thought put into the realistic construction cost and supply and demand over how powerful the item is" Meanwhile basic poison that has probably existed in most cultures around the world and would be readily available to basically anyone and everyone, and that takes an entire action to apply and is consumed for the incredibly broken benefit of a single d4 dc 10 save or suck bonus. *10 pieces of shiny platinum*
bruh why even make this video when we all know that the best starting equipment is: *ROPE* it is: hold person. spider climb. a zipline or tightrope. a way to easily strangle people (one of the most practical ways to kill a vast majority of enemys) a way to trap people. a way to trap and then subsequently strangle people. a way to attach objects. a way to attach people. a way too trip people. a way to long distance slap people. a way to lift heavy objects. a way to get other things to lift those heavy objects for you. a *flammable object* if you don't buy rope, and your an adventurer, what are you even doing? oh and oil. you can NEVER have too much oil.
3:04 - "Artificer never says that anywh-" wrong! I looked because I swore it was there. Idk about dndbeyond, I don't have rising from the last war on there. Page 54 of Rising from the Last War, right under equipment. Right above the snippet about optional firearm proficiency. But aside from that, yeah, you're right and continue on.
Lol. I have actually sat there trying to make my new character, maximizing the efficiency of my power level and gold count at level 1... It was a really interesting experience.
What I expected: XP is going to go over the best adventuring equipment The actual video: Play fighter and paladin if you want the best equipment, but play however you like.
The thing about Guild Artisan: The background feature that comes with it, Guild Membership, gives advantages, but you're expected to pay 5gp a month (in-game) to maintain it. So Guild Artisan may provide the most gold value to start with, but it also have monthly fees built into it.
If you get lucky, you can get a donkey, a cart, chests with locks, barrels, feed for the donkey, and decent equipment. Never worry about carry weight again!
I mean. My kobold cavalier once used ten liters of oil to oil armour of Sir Galahad. I also oiled his horse, so when we were running away from him I spilled ball bearings on the ground, and because he was so slippery we joked about how he got so fast after falling from his horse, he managed to cross the sea by bouncing on the water. So the best cost efficient equipment is oil and ball bearings
Just gonna list a weapon made from mundane items. Oil + Caltrops + Bottle = Insta Trap. They are prone to falling, take damage if they do, and you can always light it on fire. Substitute Caltrops with ball bearings for a more comical escape tool if you think your DM would find this too mean or power gaming. Now instead of damage it is just a instant trip trap (that you can still light on fire)
I thought this was actually going to talk about starting equipment not gold values. Like seriously, Dungeonering kit is insanely good and packed with goodies.
You never know how important food, water, and a backpack are until you're forced to travel without rations or a waterskin with no way to carry hunted food or sourced water.
I wanted to give the same amount of gold to each of my players for the starting stuff as in the OneD&D proposals. But it's true that there are classes like the Fighter which are dependent on their stuff and therefore on their starting points.
I dont even play dnd because I don't have friends willing to help me actually understand the game. I just watch the videos because the information is just brought in a fun interesting way
I expected this video to address the fact that if you make a ranger of a small race and take the starting equipment you're stuck with a longbow that you have disadvantage using cause you're smol
Jacob, did you hear about the possible expansions for 5e? We (may) get Power Rangers, Transformers, GI Joe, and My little pony themed expansions, and emphasis on the may. If this happens, I think it’s beneficial since 1. More people playing Dnd 2. With a bit of reflavoring this has the potential to add stupid amounts of content 3. I can, within the adventurer’s league rule, play as a giant transforming robot that transforms into a magical unicorn that’s also the red ranger that also uses a giant m16, and that is amazing.
This video caught me off guard, I came in expecting to watch a video on the most optimal way to setup your new character with starter gear and instead got to watch a video on how much sense the starting gold/gear tables make. 10/10 would watch again. (But probably wont, I have other vids of yours to watch first)
*My starting character has a draft horse and a wagon.*
*Gold well spent.*
*He's now a blanket merchant wizard.*
Stable employment means more money for ink and reagents. I like this idea, and I think Gunthorp, my septuagenarian Abjuration wizard, might like it too.
*Fabricate has entered the chat*
I've been wanting to roll a merchant character, actually... In _Pathfinder_ 1e, though.
"you bargain too aggressively for someone within fireball distance, young sellsword"
Part of my brain just leapt to the Belgariad where Silk uses "travelling merchants" as the party's cover basically every time they're going anywhere...
I kinda love the idea of a charlatan paladin. "I used to scam people by pretending to be a valiant paladin, but one day the powers I pretended to have started to actually work and now Im afraid of what would happen if I didnt smite evil."
it would be funny if some god punished the charlatan by giving him the powers he was pretending to have and then somehow threaten or force him into actually playing the part
Thanks for the character idea. Consider it stolen.
Love this idea. I'd have the charlatan show his "devotion" as a part of his con by eeciting the oaths, obviously never intending to actually abide by them. It's during one of these faux oaths that the deity goes "Oh yeah? Consider your oath binding, you silly muppet!" and bam, holy power.
Same.
@@dr.vikyll7466 Considering I only get to play in a new campaign every 2 years or so, with one or two one-shots a year, I would be happy if ANYONE played my character ideas.
Everyone else: Fighters are so boooooooooooring.
Fighters: Is this some sort of peasant joke I'm to rich to understand?
*too
(Unless you're a fighter. Then you're allowed to be too rich for grammar.)
Mad talk for someone in rage distance
Mad talk for someone within spy glass distance.
@@bombboy200 so everyone
@@DiscardatRandom yes
Honorable mention to purchase efficiency: if you're Small, getting a mount is a great way to go from 25 ft speed to 40 ft. speed. Also, mounts can help with your encumberance. Especially mules, which count as Large despite being Medium.
Mastiffs are 25 gp. Ponys are 30 gp. The latter carry a bit more, but since you're not having a controlled mount attack, that's the only major difference.
Mules are 8 gp. They have the same speed as the other two, they explicitly are listed as "mounts" in the equipment section, and they carry roughly twice as much as a pony. With similar hp. And it is hard to knock prone.
So if you want to ride a Medium mount around the dungeon, 8 gp gets you the most efficiency in that mount.
Don't forget, for the low, low price of 15 gp, you too can increase your mule's carrying capacity by 5-fold (from 420 lbs. to 2,100 lbs.) today!
Or if that's too expensive for you, you can always buy a pack saddle with saddle bags for just 9 gp.
EDIT: Forgot to mention what the 15 gp buys you: it's a cart.
@@jimmybob7873 What are you buying with that 15 gp? I'm not casting doubt, but I don't know to what you're referring.
@@williamcurtis2145 Ah. That's not a terrible idea, but it does clash with the goal of using the mule as a mount for mobility, particularly in dungeons.
My first character was a fighter who had a natural affinity to beasts of burden.
He always had a donkey, who was rarely useful, follow him reluctantly into battle. The day Nkrumah rarely made it through battles, and each one was named donkey ho-tay.
Guild Merchant can actually start with a mule and a cart.
DM: ok, what starting gear did you pick.
Player: well before I get into the unboxing I wanna give a huge shout-out to today's sponsor!
DM: *Patron*, not sponsor. You are a warlock not an alcoholic.
"...Raid: Shadow Legends!"
DM: "A bright burning meteor streaks across the sky and head shots your character. The force of the strike, effectively explodes your upper body. The only thing that remains of your body above the waist, are your arms from the elbow down. The gods curse your soul to never be resurrected or reincarnated. Now get out of my house."
@@duckshallrule6937 but my patron is Dionysus
Spyglasses Inc!
Boi, there are magic items that cost less then 10 spyglasses. Spyglass collectors are the richest people in the Forgotten Realms.
What about winged boots?
Well they would be if they didn't collect spyglasses
Imagine a Magic Spyglass.
Uh yeah there are magic items less than 10k gold.... Whats your point?
@@clockworkpanda8 ikr i think a better point is there's some great items for less than 1 spyglass
I like how a Guild Artisan is worth more than a Noble.
Wait yeah the heck
Makes kind of sense being in a guild and an artisan basically put you at the top of almost everyone because of how valuable you were guilds were extremely secretive of how their trades and supply was back then
This is also pretty accurate, and was a source of political (and sometimes outright violent) conflict in a lot of countries that saw a transition from feudalism to mercantilism.
most of a noble's assets wouldn't be in the amount of coin they carry on their person- it would be in the fact that they own land and that they have political power (partially from having that land).
Also it wasn't an infrequent occurance that nobles would live so lavishly they would end up flat broke.
I’ve literally just been sitting on the couch rolling random stats not connected to any character bc I’m bored and I’ve been just spitting character ideas at my friends. I need help.
Gaetano Vingelli bro same
I've got a friend like this, and I'm the one he talks too about the idea. As long as the characters are interesting it's not too boring
It might be best to visualize each stat and think of how that could be interpreted as a part of a character's personality.
Example: A barbarian with high strength and wisdom could be seen as a masculine voice of wisdom
or A Rogue with high dexterity could be seen as someone who talks a lot or is a thrill seeker.
I apologize if this does not help you out much but I bet your characters are amazing no matter what advice I give you.
Centaur Battle Smith Artificer with a mini you as your hound👀
God same
The best starting equipment for any character, regardless of race, class, or background? War dogs.
Seriously, war dogs.
Decades ago, playing in a D&D 1E campaign, a buddy of mine named Rob (we'll call him Rob the Fighter) was rolling up a 1st level human fighter, and noticed that trained war dogs were only 25 gp each, each got their own attack with a respectable chance to hit, and a respectable amount of damage for each attack. Simple enough, he bought himself some basic armor, a weapon, and blew all the rest of his money on war dogs.
VERY FIRST ADVENTURE, we were clearing out a mine that had been overtaken by goblins. However, our DM was no fool. Some goblin guards were posted up outside the entrance to the mine with simple spears and studded leather armor. In the ensuing challenge, a small force of goblins (all armed with spears and daggers, mind you, this is important later) come boiling up out of the mines to confront us.
Outnumbered, Rob the Fighter hears the clarion call. He knows what he must do. He knows why dogs are Man's Best Friend. He knows he must Unleash the Dogs of War.
Rob the Fighter forgot that when the monsters have the initiative, and they have spears in hand, they can "set their spears against a charge" (basically, holding the spear in two hands, placing the butt of the spear against the instep of the foot, and bracing for anything incoming).
Rob the Fighter yells, "Sick 'em, boys!" The war dogs immediate charge straight forward (as trained war dogs typically do) to do a bite attack on the first thing they encounter. The first thing they encounter are braced goblin spears.
Round 1: All of Rob the Fighter's war dogs are dead, skewered on the end of goblin spears. Most of Rob the Fighter's starting gold is gone, providing the most expensive feast of dog meat these goblins have ever had the luxury of dining on.
Seriously though, we cleaned up the goblins and played the campaign. Don't let Rob the Fighter's ignorance dissuade you! War dogs are an excellent investment at 1st level! They can walk along with a human without slowing them down, they get an extra smell-based perception check that most player characters don't get, they make excellent extra guards for the camp at night while in dangerous country, they don't even cost much food if your campaign keeps track of rations and weight. Treat your war dogs kindly, and don't command them to charge against a wall of goblin spears!
Another thing to take away: Even the best equipment has mechanical hard counters. If you invest all your starting funds in a masterwork greatsword and full plate armor while having no essential tools like rope or rations, you might fail the first Athletics test and be unable to get into the dungeon or starve on your way there. Or you might run into a pre-4e version of the Rust Monster, who just eats all your armor in one turn.
@@RoninCatholic Another thing about that, is that the DM was playing perfectly fairly and in-character. The goblins were armed with basic spears, one of the most basic weapons ever invented. Goblins aren't the brightest bunch, but they're not stupid either. They do hunt for food, , they're perfectly aware of how to use a spear if a wild boar is charging at you, they even have a semi-militaristic/ tribal society that values "might makes right". The encounter was in broad daylight, the goblins could plainly see a party of armed adventurers challenging them, accompanied by a pack of trained attack dogs. It doesn't take a genius to see what's about to happen, and to use basic martial/ hunting knowledge that they would have access to, to behave as somewhat intelligent foes that want to defend their "home" and possibly kill some adventurers for the loot and food they would provide!
Statistically speaking, unless 1E made setting spears against a charge always hit or something (not going to look up the rules for such a minor comment reply), I find it hard to believe a sufficiently large enough pack of dogs all died on the first round unless the DM was fudging the dice. At least, not unless the number of goblins were great enough for a TPK when you proceeded to continue that encounter.
@@matthill5426 Yes, and that's something that makes this story fundamentally different from so many "killed DM" stories - when a player makes a really bad decision like that, he ought to lose instead of being handed a victory just for being a player character. Meanwhile if he'd used his dogs tactically and won as a result, it'd have been an earned victory.
@@Shalakor As I recall, the way "setting spears against charge" worked was, you had to have initiative to basically hold your action. You had to declare that you were using your action to set your spear against an incoming charge attack. If an enemy made a charge move against you, you got to use your action to attack first as they came within range, and if you hit, you got double damage dice. Also, he only had three or four war dogs. They were 25 gp each, he had less than 200 gp to buy weapon, armor, and dogs with. It's easy to pile three or four guys (or goblins!) shoulder-to-shoulder bracing spears against charge in one of the most basic defensive military maneuvers ever worked out. People did this all the time hunting wild boar. There's no reason goblins wouldn't know to do this when faced with angry dogs! I have no reason to think the GM was cheating or fudging dice. You send three or four trained attack dogs against a dozen or two goblins armed with spears and basic tribal hunting knowledge, and that's what happened! Don't do that!
I thought based on the title that this was going to be a video about the best equipment you can choose to buy instead of the standard starting equipment. There's a lot of good mundane equipment, especially cheap light stuff, that can come in very handy.
Logan has you covered there friend
An oil flask is the best piece of Starting gear in the game. It can be used for bullseye lanterns, which make Fighting enemies in the dark very easy, and oil flasks can also be used as cheap incendiary weapons.
A block and tackle is a must-have if you're playing as a Strength-based character.
Especially if your character's race has the "powerful build" trait
10 foot poles are amazing if you're a Thri-kreen, since you can probe the floor for traps while still being able to fight.
Steel mirrors are great for sneaky characters since you can look around corners with them.
A little bag of sand is great if you're a rogue since you can throw it in people's eyes
Wooden stakes make very good catapult ammo for artificers going up against vampires.
It’s funny that you say you’re about quantity over quality, because what I like about this channel is the effort you put into making your videos short and engaging rather than releasing an unedited video of you talking into a camera for 40 minutes once a week like most DnDtubers
Ball bearings, a lot of oil flasks, mage hand and prestidigitation.
That's pretty much all I need to play an entire campaign :D
Or a kinky sex dungeon
So is your next character going to be a sentient bag of ball bearings with oil flasks attached to it, while having the magic initiate feat? Because that would be interesting.
Please explain how you use these
@@connorp3030 ball bearings to trip any enemy approaching you, Oil +Prestidigitation to light enemies on fire, Mage hand for Oil delivery.
I would take a sling and knife to help speed up combat, and a Knife can be used for more than just fighting.
You forgot ten foot poles with a hook at one end (the poor man's rogue) and flour (the poor man's see invisibility). As well as twine, string, possibly rope, and at least one of anything that has negligible weight, including chalk and fishhooks.
Your actual character abilities are somewhat less important when you can MacGyver your way through problems.
SOLDIER
Feature: Military Rank
“You have a military rank from your career as a soldier. Soldiers loyal to your former military organization still recognize your authority and influence, and they defer to you if they are of a lower rank. You can invoke your rank to exert influence over other soldiers and requisition simple equipment or horses for temporary use. You can also usually gain access to friendly military encampments and fortresses where your rank is recognized.”
Soldiers don’t need to start with much, they can requisition equipment temporarily. Comes with the caveat that it needs to be turned in periodically, perhaps for inspection or maintenance.
Military Rank: Cadet
I would say an NCO rank like Sergeant makes the most sense. Grunts are probably level 0 NPCs and Lieutenants are probably 3 or 5.
"A paid sponsor in the midd-" *mashes L*
Just kidding, I use world anvil because of your ads.
I didn't even know L functioned like that until today.
I backed rpg squeeze because of him
@@GuyHeadset L - forward 10 seconds
K - pause/unpause
J - rewind 10 seconds
F - Fullscreen on/off
M - Mute/Unmute
C - Subtitles
, - one frame back
. one frame forward
I - miniplayer
awesome - partymode on/off
@@2MeterLP i have learned so much today thanks to this
Same! World Anvil is great and XP to Level 3 showed them to ne
“A spyglass is hard to make a sword isn’t” I think you’re underselling the effort put into blacksmithing, but fair. Glass is definitely difficult to shape for the use of magnification.
Also, it took Venice inventing clear glass in the 1500s for it to exist.
All other glass before then in history was far too colored.
3:04
ERFLW pg 54: "If you forgo this starting equipment, as well as the items offered by your background, you start with 5d4 x 10 gp to buy your equipment." So DnDBeyond didn't just pull that number from nowhere. It is in the book.
I might also add that in order to roll for starting gold, you also give up your background equipment, which doesn't affect your verdict (which obviously agree with) but does knock back a few of those edge cases that might be better off rolling for gold. With background included, rolling should only be done if your build doesn't want any of the class's starting stuff anyway.
PHB page 143 has a chart of starting money (if you forego items and money from your class and background) that has a different amount based on class (from 5d4gp for the monk to 5 classes which get 5d4x10gp)
Ah well then I am blind and dumb, thanks!
This matters in Adventure's League where you take 2 Handcrossbows as a Fighter, sell them both for half price and buy the gear you want. Also starting gold is not an option.
I would love to see getting the max starting gold for each equipment option per class and background including selling. Noble gives more pure gold pieces meaning you don't have to sell items for half price.
I always do that trick in Adventurer's League.
Fighters: The embodiment of capitalism
and monk is the embodiment of communism. which is ironic because monks usually use your fist.
@@zEr-ne5ri why does this all fit so well??? fighters invading under dark for oil haha jk
Soldier: The defender of capitalism.
Warlocks, Warlocks embody capitalism.
@@FirstnameLastname-kn5sw You think so? is it because they are always making deals and charisma based?
Well, this is something i have had to discuss with new players on multiple occasions. It always comes down to same basic answer, "go with your class equipment". That's how you get the most bang for your buck. However, there are things i always tell new players to pick up regardless of their class. I always tell people to pick up a sling, they're weightless, they're the cheapest weapon in the game, ammo is plentiful, and ammo is free. Even if you're a super melee build that can deal out 100+ damage per turn you need to have a ranged weapon...dragons can fly...so can a bunch of other stuff. I recommend that bag of 1000 ball bearings, not for sling ammo but for the versatility of it. It can be ammo, it can be dumped on the ground while you're running away from someone to slow them down, it can be used to set up a trap, and it's also cheap. I also recommend oil. Oil is probably one the greatest items in the game. 10 flasks for a gp. That's 5 buildings burned down, 2 traps set, 2 enemies burned to death, and a drunken midnight wrestling match with a lusty barmaid. Go wild with it. There's a bunch of other stuff i recommend to new players too but this comment is already way too long.
Ok, just so you know Jacob, those coins you showed at 0:19 are Swiss 5 Rappen pieces and though they look fancy and expensive they are the smallest amount you can pay "cash" with here. They are the least valuable coin here in Switzerland :P
3:03 the starting gold for the artificer is in page 54 of Eberron Rising from the Last War, it is at the bottom of the equipment section
I just want to say thanks soo much for showing up on my recommended. You're actually amazing and the reason I started playing.
Finally content
I’ve been content for awhile actually
when you love rpg games but ur brain ups the adhd every time u try to read and learn the _extensive_ D&D 5e mechanics. help
I've only recently started playing D&D while not super recent but almost every single time I make a new character I give them just the bags and bags of ball bearings every time
Wizards + ballbareings are very threatening.
I almost always take a healer's kit and lantern.
Jacob: Being fighter and being able to choose two martial weapons at level one- (only has about 203 gold.)
Me: *pinches nose* you realize you could’ve chosen lances instead of whatever th you did and gotten 200 extra gold right? Maximize ye potential man
I might be wrong here, but a lance costs 10 GP, instead of the 50 you get for a greatsword
Whoops, sorry I think I meant Double Bladed scimitar, I’ve been doing several experimental build with both
@@Angworu Actually, since it's martial weapon and not martial melee weapon the most expensive choise is a hand crossbow at like 75gp. At least in the PHB.
I love these Videos. Not too long, Funny as hell and with the comforting familiar Music starting at the beginning.
I'm so glad I wasn't the only person who added up the max value stuff from the starting equipment to see if starting gold is worth it.
I subscribed as soon as you slipped in that ad. Smooth. Real smooth
i honestly love your videos. if it wasn't for episodes like this and the "how to play" series I would have honestly gotten super overwhelmed by d&d and dropped it after a few months. thanks xp! :A)
That ad transition was the smoothest. I was really happy with it. Good job lol
"A spy glass is hard to make, a sword isn't". Oh boy, ohhh boyyyy; OH BOIIII!!!
2:03 "a spyglass is hard to make, a sword isn't"
I literally don't know where to begin to explain how wrong that is. Making a sword that's actually functional is hella hard. But you're right that there's a huge discrepancy in matters of supply and demand. Lots of people want swords, but a spyglass is much more niche.
5:13 As someone who seriously contemplated joining the military and knows multiple people who serve, this hurts.
Well... They pay you education lol
Ooh, a charlatan paladin? That sounds like a really good character concept
"A spyglass is hard to make. A sword isn't."
My man I have got more than 2700 years of evidence to the contrary. Making a quality sword is NOT an easy endeavor. Good video though : )
Neither is a spyglass, to be fair
Slightly easier
Consider the fact that glass is already hard to make and an extremely niche profession. Especially if the glass need to be able to zoom into stuff.
There's a reason why blacksmiths can mass produce weapons, but no glass maker can easily mass produce spy glasses.
And at least as many, if not more years to prove how fucking hard to make a denent spyglass lense.
A sword is difficult to make, but relatively to a spyglass it isn't so much, especially not before factories and standardized parts took off.
I'm still confused why spears have worse stats than swords even though soldiers use their spear first and then pull their sword after they lose it. They should be just as good at least.
I love silly little videos like this! Seems like you had fun making it so it made me really enjoy watching it :)
I started with a ladder. One of the videos I watched around here recommended it and i couldn't help but think of Jackie Chan and how he fights with one.
I'm remembering the Soviet womble video with the tactical ladder breach.
Personally from my experience. Get a explorers pack because it covers most camping necessities buy a grappling hook and a bar of soap. Get a healers kit to help out during emergencies, and then get your weapons, focus, and armor. After that just buy whatever you want with the money you have left over ask the GM what the setting will be like to narrow your focus. I do always caution having a couple gold coins still so you have spending money in game.
The way I have always played the game was that you got the starting gold along with your equipment. I never knew that you were supposed to take one or the other until watching this video!
One of my favorite early pieces of gear is the Slippers of Spider Climbing. Especially on assassin style characters, gaining that third dimension, which 99.9% of standard guards won't expect, is so useful for infiltration
i havent even watched the video yet, but caltrops and ball bearings my friends, caltrops and ball bearings
The best starting equipment is whatever you start with, and then spend an hour and a half writing flavor text for and renaming in DnD beyond. Mordred the Paladin’s halberd is no longer just a d10 with the reach property, now it’s a personalized weapon, a deadly instrument of rough, black iron gifted to him by his foster mother upon the completion of his knightly training.
I do that for all my characters. It’s like writing Dark Souls item descriptions.
The joke about the ad in the middle of the video just killed me
If you have Rope, a big Sack or Barrel, a Crowbar, and a Club, you're already well on your well to infinite gold. And Prison.
Alternatively, you can get a Ladder (maybe two, if you want to make it stable,) Rope, a Bucket, a bunch of Caltrops, and an extremely frustrated DM who is going to wonder how the hell he's supposed to roll damage for the abomination of a weapon you just created, Jackie Chan.
I had a DM once who allowed (and encouraged) us to take the value of items we didn't want as gold in our pockets. For example, after I submitted my sheet, he suggested I take a more expensive item as my starting item and say I'm selling it to get the cheaper one I actually want.
Well done Jacob you finally proved the human folk hero fighter is in deed the superior class very cool round of applause
Imma be honest, the equipment table was like 50% of what drew me to D&D as a kid.
I started playing AD&D in 1980 . I have yet to play 5th Edition. . Per the starting money rules on page 35 of the Player's Handbook , the Cleric started off with 30 - 80 gp , the Fighter started off with 50 -200 gp , the Magic-User started off with 20-80 gp , the Thief started off 20-120 gp , and the Monk started off with 5-20 gp . We usually considered a starting PC owning nothing but rags for clothing before spending their starting money . Most starting PCs bought the best armor and main weapon they could afford . The default armor for 1st level Fighters was always Chainmail . Then they bought clothing items such as a cloak or a robe , a belt , some footwear , a cap or a hat . Then they bougt some some way to carry their gear such as a backpack or several beltpouches. Then they bought basic living items , like a bedroll , a tinderbox with flint and steel , a waterskin , some rations , a cloak or robe , a sharpening kit for their weapons and tools , and a mess kit for eating . A knife for basic cutting and camp chores was a must for all characters. A Thief needed a 30 gp set of Thieves' Tools set to attempt a Pick Locks or Remove Traps skill check . A Cleric had to pay for a Holy Symbol from their church to cast spells and effect the Undead . The basic Holy Symbol was wooden , the next Holy Symbol was Iron ,and the third Holy Symbol was silver . A Cleric was expected to buy the best Holy Symbol he or she could afford , else they be penalized in their spell casting . The rare Monk PCs in my campaigns usually started off at 1st level with little more than the basics to survive .
Hah! This one wasn't what I thought.
My underdog picks are a pack of chalk, signal whistles for everyone, and some extra sacks/waterskins if we're going somewhere. Lots of low level problem solving uses for like 10 silver. Oh yeah, and pitons if I don't already have em (I'm not getting stuck in a hole thanks)
I really thought this video was gonna be about which items were the most useful, but this is good too
I've just decided that my warlock is going to see the mayor first thing in the morning. He's applying for a business license, and renting a vacant shop in town.
I'm taking an artisan feat, hiring a dwarf miner, and opening.... Sindri's Spyglass Super Store.
A pack mule increases your hoarding capacity. An attack dog is an expendable minion and if she lives long enough, you might get puppies.
World Anvil seems pretty cool. That didn't even feel like an ad. Please do a video going over it's features in more detail!
First time I actually listened to the Ad because you made me laugh with the lead-in
Soldier not paying well is the most realistic aspect of DnD
Loved the ad integration XD
A wizard with a waterskin and the shape water cantrip, freeze the water in the skin and "whack!"
What I usually do is take the starting equipment options, however most of the time that would give me a lot of random simple weapons I don't need. In that case I choose the shortbow for each of them and "sell" them back to the VOID for half of their cost which nets me 12 gp and 5 sp per bow and I can use that money to pick up things like tool kits I have proficiency in but aren't given by a background, manacles, a healers kit, and whatever other misc items I may want. That way I can take for free pricey weapons and armor I'll need, but still have a bit of spare change afterwards to purchase gear with or start the game with.
Me, a professional Runesmith fan: Oil time
Dog, dog cart, tinderbox, cart full of oil. Maybe some armor. The monsters are carrying the rest of your weapons, they just don't know it yet.
@@MonkeyJedi99 one more thing, magic initiate, sleep, mage hand, and prestidigitation.
Now you don't even need the tinderbox.
As a DM I let me players have both the starting equipment and also the gold they roll, so session zero also becomes "before we start I'm buying ball bearings, ropes, a trap, this item I'll find a use for later" and the majority are never mentioned again
"Why is all this weirdly accurate" I don't know, maybe they put thought into designing it?
Dude u honestly put so much into this good job
Fighter can start with chain mail, two hand crossbows, a light crossbow and sell them back at half price. You can basically get like 150 gold guaranteed to spend however you want.
"more thought put into the realistic construction cost and supply and demand over how powerful the item is"
Meanwhile basic poison that has probably existed in most cultures around the world and would be readily available to basically anyone and everyone, and that takes an entire action to apply and is consumed for the incredibly broken benefit of a single d4 dc 10 save or suck bonus.
*10 pieces of shiny platinum*
bruh why even make this video when we all know that the best starting equipment is:
*ROPE*
it is:
hold person.
spider climb.
a zipline or tightrope.
a way to easily strangle people (one of the most practical ways to kill a vast majority of enemys)
a way to trap people.
a way to trap and then subsequently strangle people.
a way to attach objects.
a way to attach people.
a way too trip people.
a way to long distance slap people.
a way to lift heavy objects.
a way to get other things to lift those heavy objects for you.
a *flammable object*
if you don't buy rope, and your an adventurer, what are you even doing?
oh and oil.
you can NEVER have too much oil.
3:04 - "Artificer never says that anywh-" wrong!
I looked because I swore it was there. Idk about dndbeyond, I don't have rising from the last war on there. Page 54 of Rising from the Last War, right under equipment. Right above the snippet about optional firearm proficiency.
But aside from that, yeah, you're right and continue on.
Lol. I have actually sat there trying to make my new character, maximizing the efficiency of my power level and gold count at level 1... It was a really interesting experience.
What I expected: XP is going to go over the best adventuring equipment
The actual video: Play fighter and paladin if you want the best equipment, but play however you like.
The thing about the paid sponsorship in the middle of the video has me on the floor laughing for 2 straight minutes now
The thing about Guild Artisan: The background feature that comes with it, Guild Membership, gives advantages, but you're expected to pay 5gp a month (in-game) to maintain it. So Guild Artisan may provide the most gold value to start with, but it also have monthly fees built into it.
That add segue was beautiful!
If you get lucky, you can get a donkey, a cart, chests with locks, barrels, feed for the donkey, and decent equipment. Never worry about carry weight again!
Never leave the inn without a very long ass rope and a towel.
@3:05 in the ebberon book under equipment it does say you can roll 5d4 x 10 gp
Dumb Fun Facts are actually my Favorite type of facts so this is one of my FAVORITE videos!
Okay, I love these averages and stuff. AWESOME!
woot! First time watching your video in the first hour after release!
I mean.
My kobold cavalier once used ten liters of oil to oil armour of Sir Galahad.
I also oiled his horse, so when we were running away from him I spilled ball bearings on the ground, and because he was so slippery we joked about how he got so fast after falling from his horse, he managed to cross the sea by bouncing on the water.
So the best cost efficient equipment is oil and ball bearings
Quantity over quality.
I don't know man, your GFuel adds are some of the best out there.
Just gonna list a weapon made from mundane items.
Oil + Caltrops + Bottle = Insta Trap.
They are prone to falling, take damage if they do, and you can always light it on fire. Substitute Caltrops with ball bearings for a more comical escape tool if you think your DM would find this too mean or power gaming. Now instead of damage it is just a instant trip trap (that you can still light on fire)
I was expecting a video about which pack is the best (explorer, scrib, ect)
Clicked so fast when I saw this upload. Jacob is such a champion.
wow, thanks for putting this much effort in the video!
Dnd has very accurate stuff when you calculate it even the damage of falling objects or a yelkow dragon headbutting you
Tested by having volunteers getting headbutted by real yellow dragons! Or steer. Sure, if you want to be boring.
Max gold for a fighter (before background) is actually 263 gold or 330gp with guild artisan
Hand crossbows are 75gp compared to 50 for a greatsword
I thought this was actually going to talk about starting equipment not gold values. Like seriously, Dungeonering kit is insanely good and packed with goodies.
All my characters when they can, start with an Explorer's Backpack. Rather then any other Backpack options.
You never know how important food, water, and a backpack are until you're forced to travel without rations or a waterskin with no way to carry hunted food or sourced water.
I wanted to give the same amount of gold to each of my players for the starting stuff as in the OneD&D proposals. But it's true that there are classes like the Fighter which are dependent on their stuff and therefore on their starting points.
Title: best equipment
video: most gold
Watched the video 50x speed, Liked it well done
I dont even play dnd because I don't have friends willing to help me actually understand the game. I just watch the videos because the information is just brought in a fun interesting way
I expected this video to address the fact that if you make a ranger of a small race and take the starting equipment you're stuck with a longbow that you have disadvantage using cause you're smol
Time for a video on favorite character builds!
Jacob, did you hear about the possible expansions for 5e? We (may) get Power Rangers, Transformers, GI Joe, and My little pony themed expansions, and emphasis on the may. If this happens, I think it’s beneficial since
1. More people playing Dnd
2. With a bit of reflavoring this has the potential to add stupid amounts of content
3. I can, within the adventurer’s league rule, play as a giant transforming robot that transforms into a magical unicorn that’s also the red ranger that also uses a giant m16, and that is amazing.
1:07 to skip ad
This video caught me off guard, I came in expecting to watch a video on the most optimal way to setup your new character with starter gear and instead got to watch a video on how much sense the starting gold/gear tables make. 10/10 would watch again. (But probably wont, I have other vids of yours to watch first)
“Have you ever been sitting there…”
WHAT THE **** DO YOU THINK I’M DOING RIGHT NOW?
I always start with chalk, a red candle, paper, string, a bell, and if I can get them, ball bearings