As I was using my saw( just like that one)yesterday, I was thinking, I have to do something to fix that adjustment. Looking for the wrenches and fooling around underneath is a real pain. so glad I found your thing tonight,. a project for next week. thanks for posting it. Wayne in Houston.
You're welcome. I wish I used a larger bolt and nut though. The factory bolt is too small and poor quality. I now strongly recommend using a 3/8 inch or larger diameter bolt.
Se agradece, tengo una de esas sierras y les hare las mejora que tu realizaste en todos los videos, Saludos desde CHILE. Gracias por compartir tus experiencias.
I have watched all 6 parts of your HF band saw your videos are like watching a video version of Haynes or Chilton auto manuals. Also, I wear flip-flops in the garage crocks are just to industrial. But, at work, I wear Redwing steel-toed boots, laughs abound.
Thank you. Manuals like those were helpful to me over the years and I guess they may have made an impression on me. If the crocs didn't fit my feet so well, I would go back to flip flops.
I just made a handle following your example...perfect design. I'm gonna delay building "your" stand until you post how you did your chip tray. I'm thinking a double bar instead of single will give a more stable platform but I'll wait to see what you come up with. Perhaps a small baking pan that can be secured (without tools) so it doesn't vibrate off the stand.
The factory bolt and nut I modified in this video have proven to be a little to small for daily use. I would now recommend replacing that bolt with a 3/8 inch bolt or larger. This upgrade will be included in an upcoming video.
@@BudgetPhil I didn't see that fully until I watched the whole set of your videos... And of course once the hole is enlarged you can use whatever diameter thread pitch or style you want, but the grade strength isn't there.. standard 5 compared to a metric 8.8 or 10.9? What was there from the factory? Either way... I would have stuck with fine thread metric not coarser threaded standard... Your bolt chewed up because all metals have fatigue and it looks like torque to yield was surpassed... Speculation of what actually happened of course I wasn't there...
The yield strength of the factory bolt was definitely exceeded. I don't know what grade it was but it was very soft compared to the 5/16inch grade 5 bolt I replaced it with. I don't believe fatigue was the problem as there was no cracking. The threads just sheared off because they were so soft. I assume a 3/8 inch grade 5 coarsely threaded bolt would be adequate but fine thread maybe better.
@@BudgetPhil still, everything else is metric there, and you are using standard now, uniformity much?! No worries mate, I'm in the process of fixing mine too, different setup than yours though...
I'm still working on the design. Thought I was ready but then changed my mind about the height and the wheels. I've purchased the steel already. It may take a month or two before the video is ready depending on how busy I am with other projects.
@@BudgetPhil great - thanks, your videos were really helpful in getting my saw dialed in. That saw base seems so flimsy - looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
@@BudgetPhil Phil, I spent all weekend using this saw and noticed two issues you might be able to correct with your new stand. 1. The saw sits too low on the ground to enable use of any commercially produced roller stands that help hold longer lengths of steel for level cutting. I had to raise the saw up 5" + using scrap wood under the legs in order to use my harbor freight roller stand at the lowest setting. I checked the minimim height of similar stands at Home Depot and they too are too tall. I have a home-made stand that I modified by cutting the legs down to make work without the shims under the legs of the saw. 2. The metal saw dust shavings fall in a predictable area below the cutting area landing partially in the tray below, and below the tray on the ground. It should be fairly easy to create a removable tray to catch the shavings to save a great deal of clean-up work. The tray could be removed to simply dump in the trash. You may have already noticed these issues but thought I would mention them.
Yes, it should handle that fine. A blade can last for hundreds (even thousands) of cuts if treated right. I still use the original blade for cutting old, low quality steel.
EVERYTHING SO FAR HAS BEEN AWESOME FANTASTIC AND WORKS. Would I NEED FROM YOU IS A TABLE THE ONE PROVIDED IS SO FLIMSY AND UNSTABLE PLEASE PLEASE PUT SOMETHING TOGETHER I KNOW YOU CAN DO ITCOME ON LOL🎉
Thank you. I know what you mean, the table for the vertical bandsaw could use some stiffening. Some other TH-camrs have made videos about upgrading that table and I recommend checking out some of those. It may be a while before I upgrade my table, if I ever get around to it. I don't use the vertical configuration very often.
Great improvement! Laying on the back on the floor, like a car mechanic, in all dust... is not what a machinists wants daily. For Chinese people it's no problem. They hardly need to bend their back..
one of the most useful mods I've seen. thanks.
As I was using my saw( just like that one)yesterday, I was thinking, I have to do something to fix that adjustment. Looking for the wrenches and fooling around underneath is a real pain. so glad I found your thing tonight,. a project for next week. thanks for posting it. Wayne in Houston.
You're welcome. I wish I used a larger bolt and nut though. The factory bolt is too small and poor quality. I now strongly recommend using a 3/8 inch or larger diameter bolt.
Very nice! I've enjoyed this series!
Thank you
Se agradece, tengo una de esas sierras y les hare las mejora que tu realizaste en todos los videos, Saludos desde CHILE. Gracias por compartir tus experiencias.
You're welcome, I'm happy to share. Thank you for watching
I have watched all 6 parts of your HF band saw your videos are like watching a video version of Haynes or Chilton auto manuals. Also, I wear flip-flops in the garage crocks are just to industrial. But, at work, I wear Redwing steel-toed boots, laughs abound.
Thank you. Manuals like those were helpful to me over the years and I guess they may have made an impression on me. If the crocs didn't fit my feet so well, I would go back to flip flops.
Great idea! I'll follow your example on my saw.
Thank you
Great idea, and well executed!
Thank you
I just made a handle following your example...perfect design. I'm gonna delay building "your" stand until you post how you did your chip tray. I'm thinking a double bar instead of single will give a more stable platform but I'll wait to see what you come up with. Perhaps a small baking pan that can be secured (without tools) so it doesn't vibrate off the stand.
Thank you. I'm almost finished with the chip tray video.
The factory bolt and nut I modified in this video have proven to be a little to small for daily use. I would now recommend replacing that bolt with a 3/8 inch bolt or larger. This upgrade will be included in an upcoming video.
3/8"? Everything on mine is metric, so how's that?
Since the hole must be enlarged, I can use metric or standard bolts. I have 3/8 inch diameter grade 5 bolts on hand so that's what I'll probably use.
@@BudgetPhil I didn't see that fully until I watched the whole set of your videos... And of course once the hole is enlarged you can use whatever diameter thread pitch or style you want, but the grade strength isn't there.. standard 5 compared to a metric 8.8 or 10.9? What was there from the factory? Either way... I would have stuck with fine thread metric not coarser threaded standard... Your bolt chewed up because all metals have fatigue and it looks like torque to yield was surpassed...
Speculation of what actually happened of course I wasn't there...
The yield strength of the factory bolt was definitely exceeded. I don't know what grade it was but it was very soft compared to the 5/16inch grade 5 bolt I replaced it with. I don't believe fatigue was the problem as there was no cracking. The threads just sheared off because they were so soft. I assume a 3/8 inch grade 5 coarsely threaded bolt would be adequate but fine thread maybe better.
@@BudgetPhil still, everything else is metric there, and you are using standard now, uniformity much?! No worries mate, I'm in the process of fixing mine too, different setup than yours though...
Nice job on this saw. Was wondering if you were going to add a hydraulic descending control mod. The spring on these saws seem useless.
Maybe someday. The spring is working for me so far but it might need an upgrade in the future.
When is the next video coming? I too am concerned about the possibility of tipping with my saw.
I'm still working on the design. Thought I was ready but then changed my mind about the height and the wheels. I've purchased the steel already. It may take a month or two before the video is ready depending on how busy I am with other projects.
@@BudgetPhil great - thanks, your videos were really helpful in getting my saw dialed in. That saw base seems so flimsy - looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
@@BudgetPhil Phil, I spent all weekend using this saw and noticed two issues you might be able to correct with your new stand. 1. The saw sits too low on the ground to enable use of any commercially produced roller stands that help hold longer lengths of steel for level cutting. I had to raise the saw up 5" + using scrap wood under the legs in order to use my harbor freight roller stand at the lowest setting. I checked the minimim height of similar stands at Home Depot and they too are too tall. I have a home-made stand that I modified by cutting the legs down to make work without the shims under the legs of the saw.
2. The metal saw dust shavings fall in a predictable area below the cutting area landing partially in the tray below, and below the tray on the ground. It should be fairly easy to create a removable tray to catch the shavings to save a great deal of clean-up work. The tray could be removed to simply dump in the trash.
You may have already noticed these issues but thought I would mention them.
@@tracymontgomery6354 I am having the same issues and will be sure to address them in part 7. Thanks for the advice.
Cool mod!
Thank you
Is this saw good for 2x2 1/8th aluminum cuts? Also same size steel. How many cuts can expect out of a blade?
Yes, it should handle that fine. A blade can last for hundreds (even thousands) of cuts if treated right. I still use the original blade for cutting old, low quality steel.
How can you cut longer pipes at a 45 degree angle? My right hand saw grip gets stuck on the longer pipe
I'm not sure. I haven't experienced that issue
EVERYTHING SO FAR HAS BEEN AWESOME FANTASTIC AND WORKS. Would I NEED FROM YOU IS A TABLE THE ONE PROVIDED IS SO FLIMSY AND UNSTABLE PLEASE PLEASE PUT SOMETHING TOGETHER I KNOW YOU CAN DO ITCOME ON LOL🎉
Thank you. I know what you mean, the table for the vertical bandsaw could use some stiffening. Some other TH-camrs have made videos about upgrading that table and I recommend checking out some of those. It may be a while before I upgrade my table, if I ever get around to it. I don't use the vertical configuration very often.
A better solution to the angle adjustment is to make a rectangular nut that slides in the curved slot. Then clamping is done from above.
Sounds good to me. Thank you for the tip.
Great improvement! Laying on the back on the floor, like a car mechanic, in all dust... is not what a machinists wants daily. For Chinese people it's no problem. They hardly need to bend their back..
Thank you. I wish I used a larger diameter bolt though. The factory bolt is kinda small
@@BudgetPhil Agree. Not the best combination of bolts and holes.
Great modifications, great example on how its done, just cannot understand a word that you said, work on that and you with the who would be a 10
Thank you