These videos are so clear and concise yet still extremely detailed and nuanced at the same time. And thanks for focusing on the Retrofit. It seems a majority of everything else is centered on custom builds, which 98% of people cant afford.
Handyman- I’m trying to insulate an old shed into a useable man cave/workshop. It only has wood cladding with no barriers or insulation. My original plan was to use open cell spray foam and polystyrene 2” insulating boards. I’m in Tennessee and I would like a recommendation for some type of weather barrier that I can put into the studs to block water ingress as I can see daylight through some of the cladding.
Since you brought up parapet walls, what would be the details for an ICF house? Is the absorption/condensation mechanism associated with CMU an issue any more?
What about using a waterproof coating such as drylok, on the exterior of brick cladding on framed homes? To prevent water/ vapor from getting between the gap and condensing on the sheeting of and old uninsulated wall that is retro insulated. And then painting the drylok for asthetics
The problem with drylok is that many of the core range of products are vapor impermeable, which prevents the masonry from drying, and eventually you start to see that drylok coating fall off. Water WILL get inside that masonry either way, and so it's much more effective to apply a vapor open silane or siloxane to provide a water repellent surface to reduce surface absorption, while still allowing the brick to dry out (via diffusion). Remember, that the brick is coupled to the ledge of the concrete foundation, which means that it's wicking up water from the soils below.
@@ASIRIDesigns thanks for the info, I will have to research this more. Thanks for the book link. In coastal MS I have been seeing a trend of painting 1950/60s brick homes. I wonder what combination of sealer and paint are used for a lasting finish, since there is no going back once paint is sprayed on brick. I have also seen these homes with no insulation in stud bays, so doing blown in cellulose or fiberglass through the drywall, could create a whole new set of problems. Low r value is better than rotting framing. Maybe a light colored paint for the reflective value, and air sealing drywall penetrations.
I don't think the homes in my neighborhood are built correctly as all are 1980's homes and i cant imagine the builders knowing enough to or willing to invest in the products needed to make a better home. i might be wrong but this is Florida and lots of numb nuts work here.
*A Guide To Moisture Management For Residential Remodels eBook:* asiri-designs.com/shop/ols/products/moisture-management-for-residential-remodels
Can you do a video on radiant barriers?
These videos are so clear and concise yet still extremely detailed and nuanced at the same time.
And thanks for focusing on the Retrofit. It seems a majority of everything else is centered on custom builds, which 98% of people cant afford.
Handyman-So I’ve found these videos super helpful as I know nothing about REAL insulation and airflow techniques.
Handyman- I’m trying to insulate an old shed into a useable man cave/workshop. It only has wood cladding with no barriers or insulation. My original plan was to use open cell spray foam and polystyrene 2” insulating boards. I’m in Tennessee and I would like a recommendation for some type of weather barrier that I can put into the studs to block water ingress as I can see daylight through some of the cladding.
clear information, thank you
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Since you brought up parapet walls, what would be the details for an ICF house? Is the absorption/condensation mechanism associated with CMU an issue any more?
So, all these techniques are for new construction, or for remodels where you’re tearing them down to the studs. Right?
@asiridesigns what about hot + dry (southwest)? I see none of the new homes being built with anything you discuss, let alone remodels.
Because they probably don’t need this much thought. Water is what kills homes.
What about using a waterproof coating such as drylok, on the exterior of brick cladding on framed homes? To prevent water/ vapor from getting between the gap and condensing on the sheeting of and old uninsulated wall that is retro insulated. And then painting the drylok for asthetics
The problem with drylok is that many of the core range of products are vapor impermeable, which prevents the masonry from drying, and eventually you start to see that drylok coating fall off. Water WILL get inside that masonry either way, and so it's much more effective to apply a vapor open silane or siloxane to provide a water repellent surface to reduce surface absorption, while still allowing the brick to dry out (via diffusion). Remember, that the brick is coupled to the ledge of the concrete foundation, which means that it's wicking up water from the soils below.
@@ASIRIDesigns thanks for the info, I will have to research this more. Thanks for the book link. In coastal MS I have been seeing a trend of painting 1950/60s brick homes. I wonder what combination of sealer and paint are used for a lasting finish, since there is no going back once paint is sprayed on brick. I have also seen these homes with no insulation in stud bays, so doing blown in cellulose or fiberglass through the drywall, could create a whole new set of problems. Low r value is better than rotting framing. Maybe a light colored paint for the reflective value, and air sealing drywall penetrations.
I don't think the homes in my neighborhood are built correctly as all are 1980's homes and i cant imagine the builders knowing enough to or willing to invest in the products needed to make a better home. i might be wrong but this is Florida and lots of numb nuts work here.