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There is no one in my entire city who I'd trust to build this. Just walking by their simpler builds I see problems from the sidewalk.

In BC (rainy af) regular tyvek isn’t good enough for commercial builds. They have to buy upgraded versions of domestic house wraps. Tells you everything you need to know.

Not an authority on the subject what so ever, but from what (little) I understand don't forget to take ventilation and heating solutions used into account when deciding on the insulation and vapor barrier to be used. Or vice versa I suppose.

So just don't put drywall on and you're good

More recommended reading on this subject (other than the Author's book): "Buildings Don't Lie" by Henry Gifford. A nice succinct primer on building science for the layperson.

This guy is FOS. Most of what he is saying is BS. Anybody in the trades long enough can see this. Most of what you see is around window and doors. Which has always been an issue no matter the barrier type when installed wrong. 9 times out of ten it is installed wrong. I have pulled off endless stucco and stone facades because of massive rot to the sheeting, framing and drywall. With tar paper and Tyvek. He cries about it blowing in the wind when installing. lol Uh, so does rigid ass tar paper. He cries about it not laying flat. lol again. It lays VERY flat when done properly. Which isn't hard at all to do. Tar paper does not lay flat anywhere as easily especially after it sees ANY moisture. You have to put holes in it with staples and nails. Yep, the same with tar paper. Except tar paper is MUCH smaller than Tyvek so it needs to be heavily overlapped over and over. You want the material to be breathable. Tar paper breaks down over time. Tyvek doesn't tear. I could go on and on but I have better things to do. He is just showing improper installations of the wrap and or wall finishes. Doors and windows are always the first to show this. As you can clearly see in his pictures. I have torn out miles of stone facades on wire stapled directly to tar paper on plywood. Once water gets in, and it will, it is too late. You wont see it until it shows black mold growing inside the house on the drywall. By then the whole wall is rotten. Just don't know it because the stone has become a solid wall itself covering up the rot. Believe the BS here if you like. Just know what you are doing and what you are talking about. 42 years in the trades.

Corded hammer drill to install vinyl siding at 4:31? Am I missing something? :)

Really useful presentation, Thanks

Poczta komplikować skoro można zrobić normalną ścianę a na zewnątrz dołożyć 25 cm ocieplenia wełną mineralną. Różnica w kosztach pracowników na korzyść izolacji z wełny to zaoszczędzone pieniądze, prostsza konstrukcja domu znowu zaoszczędzone pieniądze najkrótszy czas realizacji zlecenia dzięki minimalnej komplikacji budowy

its tuck tape thats the issue you need to control moisture and not trap it between two layers of plastic Vapour barrier and house wrap houses dry on the outside and when it cant how will it ever dry out it wont. itll get moist and the saw dust and glue in pos osb is perfect food for mold species to thrive until their feed is consumed. go back to playwood and tar paper imo every reno I seen is mint compared to newbuilds built wrong imo.... people dont even know that you need to skipp tape on the bottom of windows or none at all and not to seal it completely hydro static pressure wont push moisture into the house cause the house wrap wouldnt be sealed with tape and have the pressure build up and natural moisture go back outwards imo should use reall plywood so it act like a tree and dry out and back to normal size once its has. the cladding shouldnt allow the underside to get wet constantly and should have a control to where the water goes out and not trap it like everyone seems to do like a tape seam will turn into a trough behind the cladding and cause more issues then house wrap over lap min six inches

can this be installed over an existing stucco surface? (using the same fluid applied water barrier as was described for masonry buildings)

Learn how to run paper. Zip System glorified OSB I will use CDX and properly wrap with Tyvek and tape it will be watertight and it doesn't cost 500 dollars a bucket to start depending on what crazy commercial products you use on your house you know just to make it more expensive and have the guy do a crap job and leave dead spots

What if you can’t take off the siding?

Can you carry this sub grade or how do you make the ground transition visually jarring. River stone can only go so far, maybe I just need to get out west to see more home science.

Looks to me like you suckers just need to move to a drier climate like mine. No humidity; no problem. Don't move to where I live though - it is terrible here. Please tell everyone you know how bad it is and don't come here.

May be vapor barrier, and decent air-barrier, but its not a water-barrier. I did some repairs recently on a 20 year old house, with crasppy siding on a windy foggy hill, near San Francisco. Where water got thru knot-holes in the siding, the Tyvek (yes, that brand) had disintegrated - worthless. I would say the continuous wetness, perhaps for a full rainy season, made it fall apart. I have never had this problem with 15# felt, nor seen in walls I have torn apart. MIght be good under 15# felt as an air barrier, but I would put the tarpaper over it as the water and vapor barrier.

Never use a vapor barrier on the interior. Always ONE vapor barrier on the exterior. Anymore and you create a moisture sandwich. More is not better in this case.

I preached this in the 1990s. Nothing is better than saturated asphalt felt paper properly installed.

Let's use more hempcrete blocks with no need for house wraps. Hempcrete is more resistant to fire, flood, wind, pest and mold damage and can have hollow cored filled with reinforced concrete columns and beams for great earthquake resistance.

35 years of remodel in Puget Sound and I can't count the times I've torn off rotten, rain sodden siding to reveal tar paper over wood sheathing where the wood was dry and looked as good as the day it was built. Tar paper seals around fasteners and doesn't allow the moisture to pass into the sheathing. I'll be using 15lb felt over cdx with a 1/2 in furring space under stucco on my latest project.

My brother did the blue peel and stick on his house reno, it added $5000 onto his $100k reno, so 5% price increase for a self sealing barrier, really not a huge investment for a much better product

Hempcrete or dustcrete construction have won me over in that order. I will say this, it's been longer that I've been turned off Tyvek, however any synthetics are really dirty, upstream and down. I was an insulator in the patch and did a bunch of reno and rough for others mostly. Now I'm old enough to just shake my head and smile. Dad was a museum quality builder, designer, architect, etc ... Some of that rubbed off just fine. :)

Great. Short and to the point.

or.... you can just use tar paper like they use to use. Start at the bottom of the wall and go up.

How would the detail at 6:15 change at garage door openings?

What is 5/8 fiberglass faced gypsum? Is that just 5/8s Type X drywall?

How much heat transfers through the fasteners? Is something like z channel or Larsen truss better if you are going for a perfect wall?

In my rural area Tyvek is considered siding LOL. My heated carriage house/two story garage had it for several years before I sided it. At that point there was no moisture issues. Because it was sunfaded, I put another layer on top of the original. Taped the hell out of every seam and crack , and sided it with 1x10 cedar board and batten siding. No issues at all after 10 years and I don't really expect any. I think this is fear mongering, or blaming Tyvek for poor siding installation or siding choices. I also live in an area (PNW) with lots of moisture and temperature changes.

Does the air gap between the insulation and water barrier negate some of the thermal benefit of the insulation? Is there a way to quantify the impact?

I was wondering if I could ask for a video. To address using a humidifier during winter. when is it ok, when isn't it. across different building assemblies and air tightness. I hate when the air inside gets down to near single digit humidity in the winter. But I'm worried that a humidifier might just be pumping water into my attic or walls in my old leaky house. Someday I want to custom build a very airtight and building science maximized house to near passive house standards on my property. And finally achieve year-round perfect temperature humidity and air quality, and wonder how I would safely maintain humidity in that sort of scenario?

Great videos! Thank you :)

🤡, that material is a fun factory for termites and delamination!! Better sell it fast😂

Is there no better way to attach foam and sheetrock to the walls than to sandwich them between studs? Metal studs rust, wood studs rot and burn, and both compromise insulation and budgets.

Here in Portugal, most buildings are getting EIFS but we call it ETICS instead (External Thermal Insulation Composite System). There is one major difference: we do not create the drainage air gap between the EPS and the masonary wall, so after a couple of years the EPS starts to get black and green because of mold and bacteria...

"More flimsy than tar paper." You've obviously never tried to rip Tyvec...

I want to insulate my 115 year old home in Ontario (cold climate). However, I don’t have access to the exterior walls… what do I do? Rigid foam and roxwool? Or is rigid foam just for concrete. Thanks

Unfortunately I already framed my concrete basement before I watched ur video. Should I cut foam boards and place? It won’t be sealed properly with tape. Or should I just use the vapour barrier

All these tyvak haters really don't know how it works and this video is wrong.

Houses are being built so badly in my city, you can see serious problems on new builds from the sidewalk. We're way past the point where we need to worry about this, here at least. Here it's more like, does the framing line up with the foundation? Are all of the engineered floor joints.. actually there? Did they install flashing? Did the "carpenter" think spray foam or windows are load-bearing?

Are you stuccoing directly on the rock wool outsulation?

Don’t need the repetitive “music.”

I see the trend for this in Australian homes. There’s lots of potential for poor practice, and the houses end up looking and performing like crap.

Tar paper is soooo good they had to come up with this crap or the houses would have lasted for 100 years.

The cost of a solar system to provide the required energy saving has to be cheaper and far better. These patch work , ridiculous construction are certain to fail , and fail hugely .

Could you come do this to my stucco house in Minneapolis?

This video came out one year too late :( I've installed eps without any weather barrier and with no drainage gap. And my house is not a masonry one... :/

Thank you for this episode. Can I use EIFS on a brick retrofit but instead of stucco a cladding material?

I've seen E.I.F.S. used directly on the foam of ICF walls. Assuming the joints are sealed as you showed for the rigid foam board, do you see any problems? Certainly there would be no thermal bleed though of the insulation fasteners since with ICF, none are present.

Insulating on the outside of existing brick would give you amazing thermal mass coupling with the interior conditioned space, and give benefits much greater than the same insulation level over wood framing. This would be transformational for older masonry buildings. Hopefully you also strengthen them to resist earthquakes, as needed based on local seismic activity.