I try to separate out comments/questions so I stand a better chance of not having a question overlooked in long comments. I appreciate that you’ve stuck with the more simple channel layout, especially not even doing shorts, for which I have no use whatsoever. I really appreciate that you’ve created a good set of folders for each subject so it’s easy to zero in on specific subjects. 👍 I guess you’ll need a couple more for your two latest videos. 😉
I believe this is the first video I’ve watched on your channel and you did a great job. I appreciate the tip about using the 1/4x20 SS bolts on the battery connections. Makes perfect sense!
Ty for your info good video keep up the good work people like you helping people like us diagnose. I hate electrical, but you made it better to understand.
Constructive feedback: You didn’t really say what the first test was for, right at the beginning, so a viewer would understand what they were watching. I know it’s easy to overlook that kind of detail, but for total novices, explaining the stuff you take for granted goes a long way in helping them grasp what is going on. Along that same line, you somewhat glossed over the stator diode versus regulator difference - what the diode actually looks and feels like in the wire, how to find it, etc. You did mention it and point it out, but I think going into a bit more detail about that would have been helpful. Overall, though, a great video, so thanks! I’ll be checking out more of your videos as I get time (subbed to dozens at this point). Subbed and getting notifications! 🔧👍
Good tips! I make plenty of mistakes or misspeak in many of them but do appreciate the feedback. I enjoy helping people and continue to try and improve. Thanks for watching!
I guess I’m confused so could you explain? Why would you not be reading the charging voltage, which I thought would be around 13.5 volts? Thanks in advance for your response.
The charging voltage will vary quite a bit if you test from the wire with the diode back to ground because of the difference in meters. Most meters have capacitors in them that will actually back feed with this system and show a different reading than what you are actually getting. Normally when I do this test with my meter I get around 19 VDC on this wire back to ground. When you test the black wire back to ground, it is the dc circuit and will show around 14 VDC or so but this is only used to run the headlights on this model. This system uses a rectifier and no regulator so it is more of a "dirty AC system" and only outputs 5 amps to charge the battery. It takes quite a while to get up to full voltage at the battery. With these dual voltage systems, if your voltage is climbing part 12 volts you can bet the stator is good
I do, just makes a draw really easy to see because of the needle. I usually start on highest amperage setting and work my way down to most sensitive to check for parasitic draw but this one was pretty straightforward
@@IndRepair thought of something you could share with everyone. Couldn’t find the slow leak in three tires. Zero turn and snow blower. It was the seal on the valve needle. I also make sure they have good caps on them. Thanks for what you share and have a great holiday.
Hi, I just bought a schumacher battery charger and It has a 50 amp setting, a 10 amp setting, and a 62 amp setting on it. Which settings are acceptable on this charger to charge lawn mower batteries? Is there a couple different settings I can use? Not sure what settings most people use to charge rider mower battery. Thanks
We normally use a 10 amp charge for an hour to charge a mower battery fully. 50 amp would be ok for starting and the 6 or 2 amp would be fine for a trickle charge. Make sure if you jump start it to immediately remove the charger once it is started so you do not ruin the charging system of the tractor
I see them (die hard) and the evertstarts test a lot lower than labeled straight from the store. We use Die Hard 340CCA batteri3s and very rarely have any issue with them
Got a craftsman riding mower. Guy put a new battery, new stator and new regulator on and battery is drained won't start again. Assuming junk battery as well. Which batteries are crap to know?
13.8-14.3 will be the normal charge voltage after running for a bit. I did not wait to show it come all the way up because with this dirty DC charging system it takes forever to charge the battery completely. I was just checking that the voltage was going up at that point. It showed fully charged when doing our final test before sending it out
I got one that's charging close to 15, so until i can figure out why it's doing that, I haven't been running it. What do i need to be looking at? It's a craftsman 14.5 hp
@@IndRepair once i get home i can get it. I got the mower gave to me and I have been working on it doing small things to it and on another video from a youtuber i noticed he checked the charge so i figured i needed to on this one and seen that it was over charging so i didn't want to get a new battery for it until that was fixed first.
It takes a while for the battery to charge on these mowers, they very slowly come up on voltage as was shown when running it was just slowly charging. These mowers without a regulator will not instantly jump to 13 plus volts, you will have to wait a couple minutes for them to charge as they only put out 3 amps. You can test the DC output voltage at the stator pins as described for correct operation but this one was definitely not bad. For more information on stators visit www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_specifications.pdf Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair That may be true but your video implies that the 12.6 volts charging is O.K.. Showing the charging system working correctly when "warmed up" would have been the correct way to make the video. It would have only taken a few minutes to add that to the video. I see this way to often in other videos where they just skip thru things and make a quick comment at the end saying this is what it really should be doing.
@@jimscott8482 I never implied this, in the video I explain how it is continuing to climb and should top off at around 13.8 volts in most cases otherwise you have an issue
I'm so ticked. I've got a two year old Craftsman t210 as well I think with a Kohler engine. Hasn't been used 15 hours total in two/three years mainly because I have to fight to get it going. Battery keeps showing low though charged completely. I bought this investment because I could not afford having someone come out but now looks like a myriad of issues could be causing this and I may have to spend $ to have a mechanic pick it up.
I try to separate out comments/questions so I stand a better chance of not having a question overlooked in long comments.
I appreciate that you’ve stuck with the more simple channel layout, especially not even doing shorts, for which I have no use whatsoever. I really appreciate that you’ve created a good set of folders for each subject so it’s easy to zero in on specific subjects. 👍 I guess you’ll need a couple more for your two latest videos. 😉
Yeah, just started doing a little more with the videos and channel. Thanks for watching!
You should be a teacher because you are really really good
Awesome video
I appreciate your kind words. Thanks also for watching!
Awesome video, i did not know how to check for draw downs on the battery or within the electrical system. Thanks again.
Glad to help, thanks for watching!
I believe this is the first video I’ve watched on your channel and you did a great job. I appreciate the tip about using the 1/4x20 SS bolts on the battery connections. Makes perfect sense!
Appreciate that! Welcome!
Ty for your info good video keep up the good work people like you helping people like us diagnose. I hate electrical, but you made it better to understand.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Constructive feedback: You didn’t really say what the first test was for, right at the beginning, so a viewer would understand what they were watching. I know it’s easy to overlook that kind of detail, but for total novices, explaining the stuff you take for granted goes a long way in helping them grasp what is going on. Along that same line, you somewhat glossed over the stator diode versus regulator difference - what the diode actually looks and feels like in the wire, how to find it, etc. You did mention it and point it out, but I think going into a bit more detail about that would have been helpful.
Overall, though, a great video, so thanks! I’ll be checking out more of your videos as I get time (subbed to dozens at this point). Subbed and getting notifications! 🔧👍
Good tips! I make plenty of mistakes or misspeak in many of them but do appreciate the feedback. I enjoy helping people and continue to try and improve. Thanks for watching!
I guess I’m confused so could you explain? Why would you not be reading the charging voltage, which I thought would be around 13.5 volts? Thanks in advance for your response.
The charging voltage will vary quite a bit if you test from the wire with the diode back to ground because of the difference in meters. Most meters have capacitors in them that will actually back feed with this system and show a different reading than what you are actually getting. Normally when I do this test with my meter I get around 19 VDC on this wire back to ground. When you test the black wire back to ground, it is the dc circuit and will show around 14 VDC or so but this is only used to run the headlights on this model. This system uses a rectifier and no regulator so it is more of a "dirty AC system" and only outputs 5 amps to charge the battery. It takes quite a while to get up to full voltage at the battery. With these dual voltage systems, if your voltage is climbing part 12 volts you can bet the stator is good
Great on Time. 😊
Thanks for watching!
Great info. Do you prefer the analog over the digital because of the needle? Still have a couple. Take care.
I do, just makes a draw really easy to see because of the needle. I usually start on highest amperage setting and work my way down to most sensitive to check for parasitic draw but this one was pretty straightforward
@@IndRepair thought of something you could share with everyone. Couldn’t find the slow leak in three tires. Zero turn and snow blower. It was the seal on the valve needle. I also make sure they have good caps on them. Thanks for what you share and have a great holiday.
Your talking valve core that unscrews from the middle?
@@IndRepair lol, sorry early and couldn’t remember. Learned about that when I was a kid riding my bike all over.
Nice! I do see the issue quite a bit
Hey how do you tap spindles ?
Usually use a tap set but you can also use a self tapping bolt and impact
@@IndRepair thanks for the help
My Briggs and Stratton 18.5 hp engine is overcharging, I do not see a voltage regulator. Any idea what's wrong with it?
Opposed twin or what is the engine information?
@@IndRepair 2020 Husqvarna Briggs single cylinder 18.5hp Intek engine. It has a two wire stator with the diode. Could that be the issue? Bad diode?
@@OLDCT Normally the stator itself
@@IndRepair o.k. thank you!
Or a bad battery will cause it to overcharge
Paldies par informaciju 0:51
Glad to help!
Good to know cause mine keeps doing the same thing
I see it a lot every year
Hi, I just bought a schumacher battery charger and It has a 50 amp setting, a 10 amp setting, and a 62 amp setting on it. Which settings are acceptable on this charger to charge lawn mower batteries? Is there a couple different settings I can use? Not sure what settings most people use to charge rider mower battery. Thanks
We normally use a 10 amp charge for an hour to charge a mower battery fully. 50 amp would be ok for starting and the 6 or 2 amp would be fine for a trickle charge. Make sure if you jump start it to immediately remove the charger once it is started so you do not ruin the charging system of the tractor
@IndRepair so 2 or 6 amp would work as well but it would just take a little longer?
@@craigwagner327 That is correct
@@IndRepair ok thanks
I noticed Walmart battery are not as good as they once were, short life and lower cca than stated on labels
I see them (die hard) and the evertstarts test a lot lower than labeled straight from the store. We use Die Hard 340CCA batteri3s and very rarely have any issue with them
My badboy zero turn puts out 12.40 volts from the voltage regulator. Is this low?
Yes, this is definitely low. You should normally get 13.8 to 14.3 volts on a 12V charging system
You obviously have no clue what you are talking about.
Got a craftsman riding mower. Guy put a new battery, new stator and new regulator on and battery is drained won't start again. Assuming junk battery as well. Which batteries are crap to know?
I would look for something with 340cca and removable caps on top like a car battery
I was expecting to see at least 13.8V at the battery when running. Was less than 13V really normal? (I’m more familiar with automotive systems.)
13.8-14.3 will be the normal charge voltage after running for a bit. I did not wait to show it come all the way up because with this dirty DC charging system it takes forever to charge the battery completely. I was just checking that the voltage was going up at that point. It showed fully charged when doing our final test before sending it out
@@IndRepair gotcha. Thanks!
150 CCA is ridiculous. Lawdy they building them cheap these days. Good video on diagnosing a parasitic draw. Cheers.
They sure do!! Thanks for watching!
You sound just like Tom Hanks
Haha, heard it a few times but don't think so myself idk apparently so since so many hear it besides me. Thanks for watching!
Good lord..all the meters..I'm just gonna buy new battery...
Just showing different ones, all you need is one for testing
If there's a battery drain or a problem with the charging system a new battery isn't going to fix your problem.
@@LampkinC Definitely. May help for a short time until it goes dead again
I got one that's charging close to 15, so until i can figure out why it's doing that, I haven't been running it. What do i need to be looking at? It's a craftsman 14.5 hp
Is this the rectified stator? The engine number would help if you have it
@@IndRepair once i get home i can get it. I got the mower gave to me and I have been working on it doing small things to it and on another video from a youtuber i noticed he checked the charge so i figured i needed to on this one and seen that it was over charging so i didn't want to get a new battery for it until that was fixed first.
@@hilham89 Definitely, sometimes the charging system will lie to you with AC rectified systems
That charging system is pooched... Should see about 13.5vdc when charging.
It takes a while for the battery to charge on these mowers, they very slowly come up on voltage as was shown when running it was just slowly charging. These mowers without a regulator will not instantly jump to 13 plus volts, you will have to wait a couple minutes for them to charge as they only put out 3 amps. You can test the DC output voltage at the stator pins as described for correct operation but this one was definitely not bad. For more information on stators visit www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_specifications.pdf Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair That may be true but your video implies that the 12.6 volts charging is O.K.. Showing the charging system working correctly when "warmed up" would have been the correct way to make the video. It would have only taken a few minutes to add that to the video. I see this way to often in other videos where they just skip thru things and make a quick comment at the end saying this is what it really should be doing.
@@jimscott8482 I never implied this, in the video I explain how it is continuing to climb and should top off at around 13.8 volts in most cases otherwise you have an issue
@@IndRepair If your serious about making these videos then you need to do it right. Otherwise just do a web page and write down the procedure.
I'm so ticked. I've got a two year old Craftsman t210 as well I think with a Kohler engine. Hasn't been used 15 hours total in two/three years mainly because I have to fight to get it going. Battery keeps showing low though charged completely. I bought this investment because I could not afford having someone come out but now looks like a myriad of issues could be causing this and I may have to spend $ to have a mechanic pick it up.
I absolutely understand your frustration there!
I just got new battery 2 weeks ago n still have to jump start
Check charging system and connections?
same issue
Hope you got it taken care of
One other thing - you didn’t specify switching the multimeter lead over to amps to test for parasitic draw. The devil is in the details! 😉🔧👍
I talked about this at about 3:00 before doing the test and showed a couple different meter selections
@@IndRepair You misunderstood my remark. You didn’t talk about plugging the positive lead into the amps port.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Ahh I gotcha!
I have over 400 crank its brand new started 3 times .then i had to boost it twice from my car then it waz dead
Indont have a meter .do i need a new alternator ? Alread changed the solnoid and coils
Possible the stator is bad not charging it
I would get s meter and see if the voltage clips then trace it down
A bad battery can overheat the charging system including the alternator or stator
It sure can!
Stainless steel is a poor conductor of electric. Maybe the bolts for the battery should not be stainless?
Definitely a non-issue in a 12v system on a riding mower
Bad battery or low cca will destroy the charging system
Buy high cca and name brand batteries like interstate 😊
It sure will, I see it all the time!