My mother ran a plaster Paris shop for many years casting and selling statues and all types of stuff. when painting plaster of Paris it's always best to give it a base coat. ALWAYS! and anytime there's a hole you can just make up a small amount of plaster and fill in the holes and just let it dry again and it's ready to go!!❤
@@spyrock247if you paint it or keep it white, a clear coat spray will help it to stay clean. I have plaster Christmas ornaments from over 45 years ago. As long as you treat it as a breakable piece it will last forever. If resin and plaster, it will be pretty indestructible!
Great video, i have 2 tips as i have been using Pop for a long time, 1st you can add a little bit more water to the powder then what you did, 2nd tip is for the bubbles, if you give a very light spray to the mold with a drop of windows cleaner in water mix, this breaks the surface tension of any bubbles on the surface of the mold hence no holes in the casting. 😊
A small vibrating table will get rid of every bubble in plaster. Dental labs use it everyday so vibrating it while your pouring will get the job done or you could do something like running a drill or power tool against the mold after you pour and watch all the bubbles come out the top. So if the resin crete is pricey then Im gonna stick with plaster
Thank you for the video. My personal experience with plaster of Paris is that you can add more water than you did. It can be pretty liquid which will make it much easier to get into your molds.
It's funny how just the sound of your voice is already immediately stress relief! Thanks for your videos they really help me reset and relax my brain! :) oh, I would add that while I really deffer to your exceptional experience over my own, I have worked with Plaster of Paris before and the test/comparison didn't seem all that fair as to my eye it was simply a matter of not having enough water in your PoP mix. I always leave the final bit of water in my mixture to either have a thicker or thinner paste depending on my purpose (thicker when sculpting/shaping and thinner when pouring in a mold). So yah adding a little water to make them the same consistency and then testing them would really have me curious of the comparison then. Thanks for the great videos! :)
Oh and I would add, despite my thoughts on getting a better mold from a thinner mixup of PoP I do love how you demonstrate the resincrete stronger and doesn't scratch/flake. I am definitely ordering some with your link right now :)
Plaster of Paris becomes gypsum aka wallboard material when heated. Most certainly not the same thing. Thank you Steve for doing as these videos. You can add a bit more water to the plaster of Paris to pour easier it will take a bit longer to cure.
I absolutely love your videos. I work with PoP alot and were actually saddened by this video. Pouring water over PoP will always make more bubbles and makes alot of clumps. I always pour the powder into the water, let it sit for a minute or two and then stir. Tapping the holder to remove bubble before I pour and then the mold after pouring.
I mix PoP quite differently, starting with about a 1:1 ratio and gently adding the powder to the (cold) water, not the other way around. For a timeline of the chemical reactions (give or take), see below. Thing is, when you mix a few batches, you start to empirically get a notion on how the material behaves. And after some stressful runs against Father Time, from frustration you'll necessary get to the point it will become an instinctive process, and you'll end up with a silky smooth batter that you can easily work with. ❤ So, where were we? ..ah, yes, so you keep adding the stuff, slightly shaking the cup for it to be evenly distributed, and stop when it reaches the surface. This should be done in a minute or so. Leave it to slake for 3-4' and then mix it for another 3 mins or so. From then the plaster is in the liquid phase for around 3', has a good flow and is extremely workable. After this you have 2' of a thixotropic phase (where it becomes denser, but it gets back some viscosity when worked). Then for some 2-3 mins it gets plastic, and then for about 5' it gets to hardening. Now all bets are off and it will give off heat for 10' while the chemical magic stages the denouement.
why did you put so little water in the plaster? I dont have a lot of experience but if i want the plaster to shape well in a mold i make it more watery
I’ve added POP to paint in order to get a chalk effect. Not realizing how POP works my paint just kept getting harder and harder. I think you can actually add just about any waterbased product, that may also make it stronger. You could probably put some sort of water-based sealant in it, or maybe even some sort of fiber type additive to make the POP stronger?
yep, I think it's a interesting material.. if you look at calcium sulfate and calcium carbonate, you can find many of what it's used for.. a lot of various uses in construction, medical and agriculture for ex
I have reactions to mica powder. However I have found that I can use eyeshadow to color my resin crete. Wish I could send you some of my pictures. Give it a try ❣️❣️
You said Newtonian liquid!!! The first time I saw you tap the mold with the plaster I wondered if you knew that's what it was. Now, I have to love you. Can't afford to even buy you a coffee, but I really have to love you because you said Newtonian liquid (however, technically, it's Newtonian Fluid). It didn't surprise me that the resincrete worked better than the plaster. First being bubbles. For the plaster to have worked properly, you needed to vibrate the bubbles up and where the bubbles ended up, I doubt they would have escaped unless you could tilt the mold without losing plaster. Plaster isn't very good for highly detailed tings, especially when those "things" have so many places that air pockets can form. Resincrete is a lot thinner and will fill all of the crannies based on what I saw of the consistency when you poured. I've never worked with it, but I have plaster. I'd choose the thinner, smoother consistency all day.
In my experience, plaster is more porous, rather like bisque fired clay. Absorbs color, dries fast, and the color is difficult to remove if you make a mistake unless you under-paint it with white in at least 2 coats. Black is exceptionally difficult to remove without a couple of coats of underglaze in white. No underglaze, and the black will NEVER come out. It may look "gone", but fire it and the black will come out. Never worked with the resincrete. But intimately knowing bisque-fired clay (I paint realistic portraits on bisque ... which is SO difficult and you have to do it in one go), I'm going to say that getting great colors that are consistent across different molds of plaster will be difficult. Not only does plaster absorb color and water quickly, the color will pool in the holes and it's difficult to work wet on wet unless you work FAST. I learned that with bisque portraits. Have no experience with resincrete, but it appears that the medium is more forgiving.
😊😊😊 Tente : Gesso pedra, caucita, hidrofugante, e água! Fica igual a jesmonite....tente....tem vídeos sobre jesmonite caseiro! Pra mim, fica igual e mais barato do que resincreate. As bolhas no gesso acontecem pois você não coloca de pouco em pouco, até sumir a água, e não deixa descansar por uns minutos!
In my experience with Pop it's not critical to be overly exact with the amount of water in the mix. If you want it thinner, just add a bit more water so you can actually pour it in the mold. No problem at all. Depending on the variant of Pop it hardens quickly or very slowly. I use one made for pouring and it seems to me that I get all the details, just like with resin. Maybe I should take a closer look though. Or maybe the molds I used it in didn't have that many fine details. However all the variations of Pop I know and have used are not to be mixed right away. You put the powder in a container, then add water until the powder is more or less submerged and then wait and just let it sit like that for 2 minutes or longer, depending on the kind of Pop you use. Having it sit longer than suggested isn't a problem either, so no need to be exact. Then stir (if it's not liquid enough or too liquid you shouldn't add water or powder at that point) and afterwards pour it or whatever you use it for. It doesn't flake of THAT easy, but of course it isn't nearly as hard as resin. It's certainly not as versatile as resin either as far as pouring is concerned.
And if there’s any plaster of Paris or resin mixture remaining, do not throw it down the sink! Pour it into a plastic bag and then throw it away, otherwise you’ll block the drains.
This may work for props, but I don't believe it would work for sculpture. I've heard of ages old plaster sculptures in museums, as a serious art form. But when I looked into it, I learned that resin is not considered an archival material. Any knowledge on this?
I think it’s individual choice. In my opinion and experience ResinCrete is the best out there and I’ve tried a lot. But again it’s about using what you like and are comfortable using. 😀
🫶🏼. I was actually asking myself this over the last few days. I typically use Plaster Paris as a weight type thing, like to fill a flowerpot to hold my tiki torch under on my covered deck.
My mother ran a plaster Paris shop for many years casting and selling statues and all types of stuff. when painting plaster of Paris it's always best to give it a base coat. ALWAYS! and anytime there's a hole you can just make up a small amount of plaster and fill in the holes and just let it dry again and it's ready to go!!❤
What kind of brand of base coat
@@DiscentG white paint (thin coat) or gesso works great!
@@bboyias how long will a plaster of Paris statue last indoors?
@@spyrock247if you paint it or keep it white, a clear coat spray will help it to stay clean. I have plaster Christmas ornaments from over 45 years ago. As long as you treat it as a breakable piece it will last forever. If resin and plaster, it will be pretty indestructible!
Do you have to use a release agent on the mould for the plaster or not really? Thanks
Great video, i have 2 tips as i have been using Pop for a long time, 1st you can add a little bit more water to the powder then what you did, 2nd tip is for the bubbles, if you give a very light spray to the mold with a drop of windows cleaner in water mix, this breaks the surface tension of any bubbles on the surface of the mold hence no holes in the casting. 😊
Excellent advice. Especially since plaster of Paris is cheap.
@@giovannacasadio9600 so spray the inside of the mold with water that has a drop off window cleaner?
@SlickMajic a drop of dish soap to release the water tension. That way, the bobbles burst.
A small vibrating table will get rid of every bubble in plaster. Dental labs use it everyday so vibrating it while your pouring will get the job done or you could do something like running a drill or power tool against the mold after you pour and watch all the bubbles come out the top. So if the resin crete is pricey then Im gonna stick with plaster
Thank you for the video. My personal experience with plaster of Paris is that you can add more water than you did. It can be pretty liquid which will make it much easier to get into your molds.
Thanks!
good video but i think a price comparison would have been good as well.
Thanks!
It's funny how just the sound of your voice is already immediately stress relief! Thanks for your videos they really help me reset and relax my brain! :)
oh, I would add that while I really deffer to your exceptional experience over my own, I have worked with Plaster of Paris before and the test/comparison didn't seem all that fair as to my eye it was simply a matter of not having enough water in your PoP mix. I always leave the final bit of water in my mixture to either have a thicker or thinner paste depending on my purpose (thicker when sculpting/shaping and thinner when pouring in a mold). So yah adding a little water to make them the same consistency and then testing them would really have me curious of the comparison then.
Thanks for the great videos! :)
Oh and I would add, despite my thoughts on getting a better mold from a thinner mixup of PoP I do love how you demonstrate the resincrete stronger and doesn't scratch/flake. I am definitely ordering some with your link right now :)
Have been very curious about the differences, if any. Thanks so much Steve.
Thank you!
Plaster of Paris becomes gypsum aka wallboard material when heated. Most certainly not the same thing. Thank you Steve for doing as these videos. You can add a bit more water to the plaster of Paris to pour easier it will take a bit longer to cure.
Said the same thing 😊
Awesome and informative video!! I just ordered my first bag of resin crete. I'm looking forward to trying it out. Wish me luck! 👍🏻😉
I absolutely love your videos. I work with PoP alot and were actually saddened by this video. Pouring water over PoP will always make more bubbles and makes alot of clumps. I always pour the powder into the water, let it sit for a minute or two and then stir. Tapping the holder to remove bubble before I pour and then the mold after pouring.
I mix PoP quite differently, starting with about a 1:1 ratio and gently adding the powder to the (cold) water, not the other way around. For a timeline of the chemical reactions (give or take), see below. Thing is, when you mix a few batches, you start to empirically get a notion on how the material behaves. And after some stressful runs against Father Time, from frustration you'll necessary get to the point it will become an instinctive process, and you'll end up with a silky smooth batter that you can easily work with. ❤
So, where were we? ..ah, yes, so you keep adding the stuff, slightly shaking the cup for it to be evenly distributed, and stop when it reaches the surface. This should be done in a minute or so. Leave it to slake for 3-4' and then mix it for another 3 mins or so. From then the plaster is in the liquid phase for around 3', has a good flow and is extremely workable. After this you have 2' of a thixotropic phase (where it becomes denser, but it gets back some viscosity when worked). Then for some 2-3 mins it gets plastic, and then for about 5' it gets to hardening. Now all bets are off and it will give off heat for 10' while the chemical magic stages the denouement.
This may be a stupid question, but how “breakable” are those after they fully cure?
depends how careful you are, like with any clay/porcelain/ceramic objects.
Thanks for the experiment!
Let me guess, resincrete is way more expensive. Being that it takes more powder to water, my assumption will be correct just based on that alone.
thank you !!
Thanks this was very helpful!
Great informational video
why did you put so little water in the plaster? I dont have a lot of experience but if i want the plaster to shape well in a mold i make it more watery
I was wondering because it looks the same, but I have used pop before, and it breaks easy. Thank you for the info.
You can add more water to the plaster. It doesn't make a difference.
Thank you I was wondering which was better.
That was really interesting. I was actually kind of curious about that myself. Looks like the Resin Crete is a better choice. Thank you!
a 10 lb bag of plaster costs about $12 the ***ResinCrete is $50 to $60*** for 10 lbs
@@richiebricker I figured plaster of Paris much cheaper. He didn’t mention so thank you .
Right!
I’ve added POP to paint in order to get a chalk effect. Not realizing how POP works my paint just kept getting harder and harder. I think you can actually add just about any waterbased product, that may also make it stronger. You could probably put some sort of water-based sealant in it, or maybe even some sort of fiber type additive to make the POP stronger?
yep, I think it's a interesting material.. if you look at calcium sulfate and calcium carbonate, you can find many of what it's used for.. a lot of various uses in construction, medical and agriculture for ex
thank you! very helpful. I've also wondered about knocks and dings, and even dropping Resincrete but been to chicken to test it!
I have reactions to mica powder. However I have found that I can use eyeshadow to color my resin crete. Wish I could send you some of my pictures. Give it a try ❣️❣️
You said Newtonian liquid!!! The first time I saw you tap the mold with the plaster I wondered if you knew that's what it was.
Now, I have to love you. Can't afford to even buy you a coffee, but I really have to love you because you said Newtonian liquid (however, technically, it's Newtonian Fluid).
It didn't surprise me that the resincrete worked better than the plaster. First being bubbles. For the plaster to have worked properly, you needed to vibrate the bubbles up and where the bubbles ended up, I doubt they would have escaped unless you could tilt the mold without losing plaster. Plaster isn't very good for highly detailed tings, especially when those "things" have so many places that air pockets can form.
Resincrete is a lot thinner and will fill all of the crannies based on what I saw of the consistency when you poured. I've never worked with it, but I have plaster. I'd choose the thinner, smoother consistency all day.
I agree with Giovanna. More water will help to get rid of all those cracks. Also some shaking will get rid of the bubbles.
Cool 😎
Hi! What material is your mold made of? Is it safe to use a resin mold and have a plaster of paris cast in it? Thanks!
In my experience, plaster is more porous, rather like bisque fired clay. Absorbs color, dries fast, and the color is difficult to remove if you make a mistake unless you under-paint it with white in at least 2 coats. Black is exceptionally difficult to remove without a couple of coats of underglaze in white. No underglaze, and the black will NEVER come out. It may look "gone", but fire it and the black will come out.
Never worked with the resincrete. But intimately knowing bisque-fired clay (I paint realistic portraits on bisque ... which is SO difficult and you have to do it in one go), I'm going to say that getting great colors that are consistent across different molds of plaster will be difficult. Not only does plaster absorb color and water quickly, the color will pool in the holes and it's difficult to work wet on wet unless you work FAST. I learned that with bisque portraits. Have no experience with resincrete, but it appears that the medium is more forgiving.
You missed a great opportunity to do a smash test. I'm really curious how the resincrate one would fare. I suspect the pop one would just shatter.
Big price difference between the two....Resin Crete is much more expensive
Hi Steve,Thanks for sharing a very helpful tutorial very much appreciated 👍❤️ Steve, what did you think of the Swedish Glaze ice cream ✨
If you drop them with they break apart?
Which one is better for molding aluminum?
You can use thin set. Its a self leveling floor patch. So much cheaper. 25 LB for $15 from hone depot.
Just make the Paris more fluid. It then it show’s more detail
Thanks for the comparison, Steve. I learn so much from your comparison videos. 😁
is Stone cast closer to plaster of Paris or resincrete ?🤔
Could you do a drop test please? What happens to them both if wet once cured too? Have you tried aquacast?
How well does the resin stuff stick to streched canvas?
😊😊😊 Tente : Gesso pedra, caucita, hidrofugante, e água! Fica igual a jesmonite....tente....tem vídeos sobre jesmonite caseiro!
Pra mim, fica igual e mais barato do que resincreate.
As bolhas no gesso acontecem pois você não coloca de pouco em pouco, até sumir a água, e não deixa descansar por uns minutos!
In my experience with Pop it's not critical to be overly exact with the amount of water in the mix. If you want it thinner, just add a bit more water so you can actually pour it in the mold. No problem at all. Depending on the variant of Pop it hardens quickly or very slowly. I use one made for pouring and it seems to me that I get all the details, just like with resin. Maybe I should take a closer look though. Or maybe the molds I used it in didn't have that many fine details. However all the variations of Pop I know and have used are not to be mixed right away. You put the powder in a container, then add water until the powder is more or less submerged and then wait and just let it sit like that for 2 minutes or longer, depending on the kind of Pop you use. Having it sit longer than suggested isn't a problem either, so no need to be exact. Then stir (if it's not liquid enough or too liquid you shouldn't add water or powder at that point) and afterwards pour it or whatever you use it for. It doesn't flake of THAT easy, but of course it isn't nearly as hard as resin. It's certainly not as versatile as resin either as far as pouring is concerned.
I wonder if there’s any difference between them in the way they react with resin? 🤔
It's better to add the pop to water, not water to pop. It changes the consistency
Steve I coat my POP with a clear coat and also add a little more water with it
@@brendagoen hi what kind of clear coat please? Do you use a spray can of clear coat?
I use plaster of paris quite a lot. You can add more water to it to make it more fluid so it’s easier to get into the nooks and crannies
Won't that make it more brittle too?
What kind of paint did you use? I saw another video from a different creator say acrylic paint does not work on resincrete, that it peels off.
I thought about using resin crate to make a homemade fire pit
@@SteveMcDonaldArtsandCrafts I will for sure be checking into that and then I'll send you a photo once it's finished
Good idea! I wonder if coating the inside with heat proof cement would make a difference?
Just wondered what the price difference is as well.
horrendous price diff
How do these both compare to jesmonite?
That was what I was wondering! Also, how does it compare to the resin/POP mix he did awhile back!?
POP is a great alternative to Jesmonite since we can't buy it in the states!
Hello. Great video. Seems difficult to buy in Germany 🇩🇪. Any ideas to be able purchase in Germany. Many thanks.
Very nice comparison. Resin creat. Looks like the better choice.
maybe but only if you are rich
❤
And if there’s any plaster of Paris or resin mixture remaining, do not throw it down the sink! Pour it into a plastic bag and then throw it away, otherwise you’ll block the drains.
what does ditching means
Very interesting! I remember you once added Plaster of Paris powder to resin and poured it into a mold. How would that compare to the ResinCrete?
Maybe some more water in the plaster would be better.
Resinctete is $$$$
Way too expensive!
I think it’s worth the extra. But it’s down to the individual preference.
This may work for props, but I don't believe it would work for sculpture. I've heard of ages old plaster sculptures in museums, as a serious art form. But when I looked into it, I learned that resin is not considered an archival material. Any knowledge on this?
What about pice???
Hydrostone works better. ....
I think it’s individual choice. In my opinion and experience ResinCrete is the best out there and I’ve tried a lot. But again it’s about using what you like and are comfortable using. 😀
WEAR all you ppe. Especially gloves.
🫶🏼. I was actually asking myself this over the last few days. I typically use Plaster Paris as a weight type thing, like to fill a flowerpot to hold my tiki torch under on my covered deck.
There it is, I should not be using PoP like I have been!! Thank you for the lesson!! 🫶🏼
plaster is mixed by pouring and slaking plaster into water not the other way around
plus your mixture was far too thick thats why the details were lacking, pop should be poured as the resin was not stuffed into the mold
People saying there's no difference need a wallop. It's obvious there's a difference. Cast create is a million times better 😉👌🫶💪👍🫵🌟
fact is concrete is far better